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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 



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^ £?. <%#&£*"&>' 



EIGHT JOURNEYS 
ABROAD 



LETTERS OF 

MARY D. ROSENGARTEN 

(nee richardson) 

written in 
1869, 1870, 1892, 1897, 1900, 1903, 1906, 1910 



WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS 




: *^&^k;£.^M^ 



PHILADELPHIA 

PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION 

BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 
1917 






COPYRIGHT, 191 7, BY FRANK H. ROSENGARTEN 



/ 



SEP 21 1917 

©CI.A473603 



f JF 



DEDICATION 



AS A MEMORIAL OF HER WONDERFUL TALENTS AND 
UNCEASING INDUSTRY, THESE LETTERS ARE PUB- 
LISHED AND DEDICATED TO THE SONS, RELATIVES 
AND SUCH FRIENDS AS REMEMBER THE WRITER IN LIFE 



PREFACE 

The writer of the accompanying letters, Mary D. Rosen- 
garten, was born in 1846 at Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, daughter 
of James and Laura Clifford Richardson. In 1857, Mr. and 
Mrs. Richardson removed to St. Louis, Missouri, and it was in 
that city their daughter received her early education, grad- 
uating from the high school at the head of her class, in 1862. 

After her graduation in St. Louis she entered the home 
of President Sanborn of Dartmouth College at Hanover, 
New Hampshire, and under his supervision studied English 
literature. 

Later, in 1863, she entered a school in Brooklyn, N. Y., on 
Brooklyn Heights, and applied herself to the study of vocal and 
instrumental music. 

The following years she studied vocal and instrumental 
music and became a most accomplished singer, having a mezzo- 
soprano voice. 

Her intense desire for culture induced unceasing efforts in 
all branches. Her study of music, and French, Italian and 
English literature never wavered, even during her long years 
of married life and motherhood. Her appreciation of the 
artistic and beautiful was a strongly marked characteristic. 
Her kindness of heart, generous disposition and quiet charity 
made her beloved by the many who knew her. 

In the winter of 1863, instead of journeying to her home in 
St. Louis, she spent the Christmas holidays at the home of 
the father of her future husband at 1532 Chestnut Street, 
Philadelphia. 

Her visit there began a friendship that never wavered and 
resulted in her subsequent engagement and marriage in 1873, 
ten years after her first visit to Philadelphia, followed by over 
forty years of intensest mutual love. From 1864 to 1869, she 
lived at her father's home, 2827 Locust Street, St. Louis, from 

5 



PREFACE 

time to time making journeys in the United States, until in 
1869 she was enabled to fulfill her ideals for European travel 
and musical culture. 

She left New York on the 30th of October, 1869, accom- 
panied by her father, journeyed to Italy and settled in Milan 
to study singing under the celebrated Maestro Lamperti. 

At first she studied singing under the Maestro Corsi, taking 
three lessons a week, but wrote home objecting, "He will not 
let me practice more than two hours a day!" 

Later she concluded her studies under Lamperti, among 
whose pupils was the great tenor Campanini, who created in 
his later career the intensest enthusiasm and with Christine 
Nilsson constituted probably the greatest vocal duo ever 
known. 

Her letters written during this period of late 1869 and 1870 
were treasured by her parents and were carefully preserved; it 
has been a labor of love to reproduce them literally, for they 
so fully demonstrate the deep appreciation she felt for the 
wonders of Europe, although written in hurried moments. 

These pilgrimages included travels in Italy, Switzerland, 
France, Belgium, England, Scotland, Norway, Sweden, Fin- 
land, Russia, Poland, Austria, the Tyrol, Spain, Algiers, 
Turkey, the Balkans, the Holy Land and Egypt. The places 
and things described by her will certainly interest persons 
familiar with them. Persons intending to travel can read her 
descriptions with assurance of their accuracy. 

She was married on the 5th of March, 1873, at the home 
of her parents, 2827 Locust Street, St. Louis, and, after a short 
wedding journey by way of Louisville, Cincinnati, Harper's 
Ferry and Washington:, arrived at Philadelphia, her home from 
that time onward. 

At first residence was made at 1532 Chestnut Street. After 
a few months, 256 South 15th Street was purchased and then 
furnished and adapted to suit her taste for artistic surround- 
ings. This home was occupied for twenty-one happy years 
and here were born her two sons, J. Clifford and Samuel Rich- 
ardson Rosengarten. 



PREFACE 

In 1894 the family home was changed to 1905 Walnut 
Street, and occupied by her for the nineteen remaining years 
of her life. 

During all her forty years of married life in Philadelphia 
she was enthusiastically busied with musical activities. She 
constantly attended the Grand Operas and delighted in lis- 
tening to the greatest singers of the world. She joined the 
Beethoven and St. Cecilia Choruses, was a director of the 
Philadelphia Orchestra from its inception until her death, 
was one of the founders of the Eurydice Chorus and was 
president of that society at the time of the celebration of its 
25th anniversary. 

She induced the conductor, Professor Parker, of Yale Uni- 
versity (composer of the Opera of Mona and other celebrated 
compositions) to make the concert given in honor of the cele- 
bration a unique musical event. The concert was devoted to 
the memory of Michael Cross, first leader of the Eurydice and 
conductor of the Orpheus Club, and in the programme were 
several songs that had been taught the chorus many years 
before by Mr. Cross. Compositions written by Professor 
Horatio Parker, by his assistant at Yale University, Professor 
Smith, by Mr. Chadwick of Boston, who has written music of 
the very highest worth, a song by Gilchrist of Philadelphia and 
one by Frank Damrosch, at one time conductor of the Euryd- 
ice and now the head of the great conservatory of music in 
New York, were rendered. 

The crowning feature of this concert was the fact that each 
of these eminent composers conducted in person the composi- 
tion allotted to him. 

After the concert these men and many of the chorus were 
entertained at Mrs. Rosengarten's home, and speeches were 
made congratulating the society on such a wonderful event 
and praising the genius and musical talent of the president of 
the society. 

Mrs. Rosengarten was insatiable for travel and study of the 
wonders of the world. She visited Europe in 1 869-1 870, in 

7 



PREFACE 

1872, in 1892 and 1897, in 1900, 1903, 1906 and 1910. Twice 
she was in California and many times in Canada. She visited 
the Centennial Exposition of 1876, the Exposition at Paris in 
1900, the St. Louis Fair, the Pan-American Exposition in 
Buffalo and went twice to the World's Fair in Chicago. 

While her summer home and garden in Jamestown, Rhode 
Island, were quite satisfying to her esthetic and artistic ideals 
she always declared it to be a waste of valuable time to reside 
there when there was so much of intensest interest to her in 
many parts of the world she had not seen. 

She deeply regretted her inability to visit her niece, the 
wife of a high military officer attached to the staff of the Vice- 
roy in India, and another niece, married to an American of- 
ficer attached to the United States Embassy at Peking, China. 

She died on the 29th of October, 191 3, at Coronado, Cali- 
fornia, after long months of illness. She passed away peace- 
fully, surrounded by her family and loyal home servants, 
beloved and admired by all who knew her. 

F. H. R. 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

The Journeys of 1869-1870 17 

The Journeys of 1892 177 

The Journeys of 1897 245 

The Journeys of 1900 353 

The Journeys of 1903 419 

The Journeys of 1906 5°7 

The Journeys of 1910 599 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Miniature painted from photograph made in Milan in 1870 Frontispiece 

Sketch Outline of the Eight Journeys Abroad 16 

The Forum, Rome 41 

Interior of the Coliseum, Rome 42 

Pope Pius IX in the Garden of the Vatican 44 

"The Noon Hour," Florence. A Contrast 48 

Ponte Vecchio, Florence 40, 

The Campanile and the Palace of the Doges, Venice 52 

Princess Marguerite 78 

The Lake of Geneva 92 

The Park at St. Cloud, Paris 96 

The Louvre, Paris 97 

The Park at Versailles, Near Paris 98 

The British Museum, London 105 

Holyrood Castle, Edinburgh 117 

The Caledonian Canal, the Water Journey Across Scotland 125 

The Gota Canal, Sweden 129 

On Lake Geneva 161 

Chamounix, Foot of Mt. Blanc 164 

Martigny. ^8 

Lugano, Switzerland 170 

The Royal Palace, Brussels 173 

The Marble Arch, Hyde Park, London 188 

Windsor Castle 192 

Henley Regatta 194 

Mont Orgueil, Castle Gorey, Jersey 196 

Seigneurie Lane, Guernsey 197 

Corbiere Lighthouse, Jersey 198 

Creux Harbor, Sark 199 

Mont Saint Michel 204 

L'Escalier de Dentelles, Mont St. Michel 205 

Trouville 207 

The Inn of Guillaume le Conquerant, Dives 209 

Chateau de Chenonceaux 210 

Chateau d'Amboise 211 

Marquis de Rochambeau . 216 

Chateau de Rochambeau, Vendome 217 

The Chamber and Deathbed of Count Rochambeau 219 

Hombourg 221 

St. Moritz 226 

The House of Richard Wagner, Bayreuth 227 

Hotel Tyrol, Innsbruck 228 

To Chur, Julier Pass 231 

Versailles 240 



1 1 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Aboard S. S. St. Paul, June, 1897 254 

Southampton 258 

Daisch's Hotel, Shanklin, Isle of Wight 260 

Bonchurch, Isle of Wight 261 

The Crab and Lobster, Ventnor 262 

Lunch at Carisbrooke Castle at "Eight Bells Inn" 263 

Salisbury Cathedral 264 

Exeter Cathedral 266 

Interior of Exeter Cathedral 266 

Penzance • 267 

Land's End, Cornwall 269 

Logan Rock, Cornwall 270 

King Arthur's Seat, Tintagel, Cornwall 273 

The Walk from Lynmouth to Lynton 274 

Going Through Lorna Doone Valley 275 

Door of Cathedral at Bath 276 

Wells Cathedral 277 

At Clovelly, Cornwall 278 

New Inn, Clovelly 278 

Hall at Oxford 280 

Trafalgar Square and the Hotel Metropole, London 281 

The Eton-Harrow Cricket Match 282 

Blenheim 283 

"Thames Day" in the Lock 284 

"Surley Hall" 285 

Henley Regatta 288 

On the Omnibus, London 290 

Henley Regatta 291 

Crossing from Folkestone to Boulogne 293 

Fontainebleau: The Chateau, the Town and the Forest 295* 

Hotel Victoria, Hombourg 297 

Theatre Marigny, Paris 299 

Fontainebleau 300 

Door at Fontainebleau 300 

Barbizon 301 

Fresenius Laboratory, Wiesbaden 302 

Curious Motto in Fresenius Home 303 

"The Schloss," Hombourg 306 

On the Danube at Sigmaringen 312 

Schloss Sigmaringen 313 

Bicycle Party at Triberg 317 

Armor in Vault at Schloss Sigmaringen 318 

Count Salis, "Pater Nicolas," Head of the Monastery, Benedictine 

Order, at Beuron 319 

Hall, Schloss Hornstein, Grueningen 320 

The Family Adelmann and Mrs. F. H. Rosengarten 321 

The Excursion to Niebelungen Land in Royal Equipages 324 

Count Adelmann and Wife and M. D. R 325 

Hohenzollern Hechingen 325 

Salon, Schloss Hohenzollern, Sigmaringen 326 

12 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

"Hof Kammer," Sigmaringen 326 

Entrance to Schloss Hohenzollern, Hechingen 327 

The Lunch at Schloss Hohenzollern, Hechingen 327 

Hotel Bayerischer Hof, Munich 329 

The Opera House, Munich 329 

Schloss Hohenstadt 332 

Augsburg Cathedral 333 

Royal Carriages of Prince Leopold of Hohenzollern 333 

Prince Leopold of Hohenzollern 334 

Staircase, Schloss Hohenstadt 335 

A Part of the Garden of Schloss Hohenstadt 335 

Church of Hohenstadt 336 

Countess Adelmann's Boudoir, Schloss Hohenstadt 337 

Banquet Hall, Schloss Hohenstadt 338 

The Chemical Laboratory, University of Tubingen 342 

The Roman Arch, Rheims 346 

Court of Castle Pierrefonds, Near Compiegne 347 

Compiegne, from the Palace 347 

Laon 348 

Salon, Chateau de Compiegne 349 

The Cathedral, Rheims 349 

Aboard the "Touraine" at Havre, September 24, 1897 350 

The "Touraine" 351 

Grand Hotel, Lyndhurst, New Forest 360 

Beaulieu Abbey 361 

Where William Rufus fell, New Forest 361 

General Horace Porter 364 

Replica at Washington, D. C, of the Monument of Rochambeau at 

Vendome 365 

Chantilly 367 

Exposition, Paris, 1900 368 

Rue des Nations, Paris Exposition, 1900 370 

Grand Hotel, Lake Lugano 373 

Koenigstein 375 

Palace Hotel, St. Moritz 377 

Tegern See, Tyrol 381 

Austrian " Jager" Regiment in the Fern Pass 382 

Castle Ambass, Innsbruck 382 

The Fern Pass, Tyrol 384 

Banquet Table, Silver Wedding, Hohenstadt 384 

Hotel, Tegern See, Tyrol 385 

The Bridal Couple in the Garden, Hohenstadt 387 

Schloss Hohenschwangau 390 

Neuschwanstein 391 

Gorgeous Room in Neuschwanstein 392 

Village Folk Parading for the Silver Wedding 396 

Gate of Castle Hohenstadt 397 

The Procession to the Church 397 

Coming Out of Church after the Ceremony 397 

The Return to the Castle 397 

13' 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Schloss and Church, Hohenstadt 39 8 

The Wedding Couple, Friends, and Relatives in the Garden 399 

"Hoch!" 400 

Musicians of Joseph Anselm at the Wedding Banquet, Hohenstadt . . 401 

Adelmannsfelden Castle at Ellwangen 408 

" Baur au Lac," Zurich 4 1 1 

The Top of Pilatus 412 

Porta Nigra, Trier 4 J 5 

S. S. Auguste Victoria 428 

Funchal from the Terrace 430 

Funchal, Madeira 43 I 

" Coasting" at Funchal 43 2 

Mother's Carriage, Madeira 433 

Tangiers 43^ 

Tangiers from the Citadel 437 

Watching a Snake Charmer, Tangiers 437 

Gibraltar 439 

In Tangiers 44° 

The Alhambra 44 1 

Landing at Algiers • 443 

Algiers 444 

Blidah 445 

Blidah 447 

Genoa 449 

The Water Front, Nice 450 

The Carnival, Nice 452 

Villefranche 452 

Entrance to the Amphitheatre, Syracuse 455 

Ear of Dionysius, Syracuse 456 

Malta from the Sea 458 

Malta 459 

Tyryns, Greece 461 

The Temple of Jupiter, Athens 462 

The Temple of Theseus, Athens 463 

Yildiz Kiosk, the Arrival of the Sultan 468 

The Train to Damascus 473 

Beyrout, the Port of Damascus 474 

The Temple of the Sun, Baalbec 475 

A Gate in Damascus 478 

On the Way to Jerusalem 481 

View of Joppa 482 

The Gate, Joppa 483 

A Street in Jerusalem 484 

The Gardens of Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo 487 

Cairo 488 

The Trip to the Pyramids 489 

The Sphinx 490 

Karnak 492 

The Avenue of Sphinxes 493 

The Ride to the Tombs of the Kings, from Luxor 494 

14 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Isola e Capo S. Leo, Taormina 497 

In the Convent Hotel, Taormina, Sicily 498 

The Greek Theatre, Taormina 498 

The Harbor at Fayal 518 

Mountains Back of Fayal 519 

Grotto of Posilipo, Naples 528 

Sorrento 529 

Hotel des Capuchines, Amalfi 531 

Ravello 532 

At Psestum 534 

Hotel Timeo, Taormina 535 

Solfatara, near Naples 536 

From the Greek Theatre, Taormina 537 

The Cathedral, Syracuse 540 

The Cathedral of Palermo 542 

Capri 544 

At Capri. 545 

" Campo di Fiori," Rome 548 

Fountain of Trevi, Rome 549 

The Appian Way, Rome 551 

Viterbo 556 

City Gate, Orvieto 558 

The Cathedral at Orvieto 559 

Spoleto 562 

Spoleto 562 

Spello 563 

Foligno " 564 

Roman Temple, Perugia 565 

Collegio del Cambio, Perugia 570 

Monte Oliveto, Siena 572 

Siena 574 

San Gimignano 576 

The Roman Theatre at Fiesole, near Florence 579 

Door of St. Mark's, Venice 581 

The Bronze Horses, St. Mark's 582 

House of Peers, Munich 586 

Burg Adelmannsfelden, Elwangen, Wurtemberg 587 

Castle Hohenzollern, Sigmaringen 588 

River Alongside Hotel Bauer au Lac, Zurich 589 

Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, Paris 594 

Dover Castle 597 

A Bit of Canterbury 597 

Canterbury Cathedral 598 

Portrait of Mary D. Rosengarten, from the oil painting by Alice Kent 

Stoddard 601 

Aboard the Cedric 607 

Ponta Del Gada 609 

Glorious Madeira 611 

Madeira 612 

Solfatara 616 

15 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

The Amphitheatre, Pozzuoli 617 

A Bit in Ravello 619 

Amain 620 

Perugia and Hotel Brufani 625 

The Convent of St. Francis, Assisi 626 

Madonna Delia Sedia, Raphael 628 

The Gallery of the Ufnzi, Florence 629 

Interior of Santa Croce, Florence 629 

Garden of the Hotel Byron, Ravenna 630 

The Tomb of Dante,Ravenna 63 1 

Chapel and Altar of St. Anthony, Padua 633 

The Fountain and Pigeons, St. Mark's Square, Venice 634 

Abbazia, Dalmatia 636 

Trau 637 

Fiume , 638 

Zara, Capital of Dalmatia 639 

The Water Front, Sebenico, Dalmatia 640 

One of the Five Cascades of the Krka River, near Sebenico 641 

At Clissa 642 

The Dalmatian Coast 644 

View of Ragusa from Lacroma 645 

Cettinge, Capital of Montenegro 647 

Mostar 648 

Between Mostar and Jayce, Herzegovina 649 

Sarajevo, Capital of Bosnia 652 

Jayce 653 

Royal Palace, Budapest 655 

Hotel de Crillon, Paris 661 

Hotel de Crillon, Place de la Concorde, Paris 662 

Hotel de Crillon, Paris 663 

The Garden, Hotel de Crillon, Paris 663 

Count de Rochambeau 666 

Countess de Rochambeau 667 

Her Son Clifford, Uniform of 1st City Troop in Campaign of 1898. . . 673 

And in the U. S. Army in 1917 673 

256 South 15th Street, the Home 1873 to 1894 ' 674 

1532 Chestnut Street, Her Home in 1873 674 

Rittenhouse Square and 1905 Walnut Street, Home 1894 to 1912 675 

Castanian, Home in Germantown 676 

Jamestown Home in 1885 676 

Jamestown Home as She Changed it, 1912 677 

Garden at Jamestown, 191 2 677 

Grape and Plum Arbor in 1912 678 

The Home in Newport, R. I., 1888 678 

Interior of Jamestown Home in 1912 679 

The Last Day in the Garden, Jamestown, 1912 679 

The Villa at Coronado, California, 1913 680 

In the Garden at Coronado, California, 1913 680 

The Coronado Villa 680 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1869-70 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1869 AND 1870 

Ambition for culture and travel finally brought permis- 
sion to satisfy these long-looked-for undertakings, for Mrs. 
Rosengarten, at that time Mary D. Richardson, sailed on the 
30th of October, 1869, with her Father, James Richardson, of 
St. Louis, and arrived safely in Paris, and thence followed her 
experiences in France, Italy, Switzerland, England, Scotland, 
Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Austria and the Tyrol and 
a return to Italy. After the long months of study under 
Maestro Lamperti in Milan began the journeys through Ger- 
many, Belgium to England. 

It is apparent from the letters that every moment was 
utilized in the acquisition of useful and intellectual experi- 
ences, the study of historic, artistic and social conditions, 
and the noting of surroundings in a manner remarkable for a 
person so young. 

The energy shown in the ascents of Vesuvius and of the 
Grand Mulets was exceptional, and the memories of these 
accomplishments were always sources of deepest pleasure to 
her during the forty-four subsequent years of her life. 

Notwithstanding the exciting conditions caused by the 
War of 1870, the journeys were but little inconvenienced. 

On the 9th of December, 1870, the return to America was 
made on the Steamship Russia. 

F. H. R. 



INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1869-70 

S. S. PEREIRE-FROM NEW YORK, 30TH OCTOBER, 1869 



New York... Oct. 29 

Paris .Nov. 19 

Nice Dec. 

Lyons Dec. 

Height of Fourriere, 

Lyons Dec. 

Marseilles Dec. 

Avignon Dec. 

Corniche Road Dec. 

Monaco Dec. 9 

Mentone. .Dec. 9 

Leghorn Dec. 9 

Naples Dec. 18 

Savona Dec. 18 

San Remo Dec. 18 

Oneglia Dec. 18 

Genoa Dec. 1 8 

Pisa Dec. 18 

Vesuvius .Dec. 18 

Herculaneum Dec. 18 

Rome ....Jan. 2 

Posilipo .Jan. 2 

Pozzuoli Jan. 2 

Baiae .Jan. 2 

Solfatera Jan. 2 

Cave of the Cumaean 

Sybil Jan. 2 

House of Diomedes. .... .Jan. 2 

Sorrento Jan. 2 

St. Peter's, Rome .Jan. 2 

Christmas Services at St. 

Peter's Jan. 2 

Rome. Jan. 3 

HoteldellaCitta, Florence. Jan. 7 

Pitti Palace... Jan. 7 

Florence Jan. 10 

Uffizi Palace Jan. 10 

Dante's House Jan. 10 

Palazzo Vecchio -Jan. 10 

Church of Santa Croce. . .Jan. 10 

Church of San Lorenzo. .Jan. 10 

Duomo, Florence Jan. 10 

Venice Jan. 12 

Square of St. Mark's. ... .Jan. 13 

St. Mark's, Venice .Jan. 13 

Doges' Palace .Jan. 13 

' Bridge of Sighs Jan. 13 

Pigeons Jan. 13 

Rialto, Venice Jan. 13 

Othello's House, Venice .Jan. 13 
Paul Veronese Picture 

and House, Venice. .. .Jan. 13 

Titian's House, Venice. . .Jan. 13 

Milan, Jan. 18 



), 1869 
>, 1869 


25 

25 


, 1869 


27 


, 1869 


27 


, 1869 


27 


, 1869 


28 


, 1869 


28 


, 1869 


28 


, 1869 


29 


, 1869 


3° 


, 1869 


30 


, 1869 


31 


, 1869 


32 


, 1869 


32 


, 1869 


32 


, 1869 


32 


, 1869 


33 


, 1869 


34 


, 1869 


34 


, 1870 


35 


., 1870 


35 


, 1870 


35 


, 1870 


35 


, 1870 


35 


, 1870 


35 


, 1870 


37 


, 1870 


38 


, 1870 


38 


, 1870 


38 


, 1870 


40 


', 1870 


46 


', 1870 


46 


), 1870 


47 


), 1870 


47 


), 1870 


47 


), 1870 


47 


), 1870 


47 


), 1870 


48 


), 1870 


49 


, 1870 


50 


, 1870 


50 


, 1870 


50 


, 1870 


51 


, 1870 


51 


, 1870 


53 


, 1870 


53 


, 1870 


54 


,1870 


54 


, 1870 


54 


, J 870 


55 



Cathedral, Milan Jan. 

Santa Maria della Grazie.Jan. 

Meals in Milan Jan. 

Masked Ball in La Scala.Jan. 

Climate in Milan Jan. 

Mr. Clarke, Consul, 

Milan Jan. 

French and Italian Les- 
sons Jan. 

Luca Fumigalli Jan. 

Maestro Corsi, Singing 

Master .Jan. 

Lamperti, Singing Master Jan. 
Sforza Palace, Milan. . . . .Feb. 
Court Ball, Masked, at La 

Scala Mar. 

Carnival at Milan Mar. 

King Victor Emmanuel,. ,Mar. 
King Victor's Birthday, 

and Te Deum. Mar. 

Public Gardens, Milan. . .Mar. 

Galleria in Milan Mar. 

Food in Milan Mar. 

Service in the Grand Hos- 
pital Mar. 

Flowers Mar. 

Opera of II Guarany. . . . .April 

Tame Hen April 

Lamperti Music April 

Easter in the Cathedral of , 

Milan April 

Princess Marguerite April 

Lake Como, .April 

Camerlata April 

Cadenabbia April 

Villa of Princess Carlotta April 

Bellaggio _ April 

Villa Serbelloni .April 

Monza May 

Strawberries May 

Chailly, Lausanne.. June 

Turin June 

Church of La Superga.. . .June 

Royal Chapel, Turin June 

Prince Amadeo June 

Chinamen at Turin June 

St. Michele June 

Lord and Lady Armstrong. June 
Tower of "Bertha the 

Spinner" June 

St. Cecilia Society, Church 
of St. Francois Lau- 
sanne .June 

Paris .June 



18, 1870 55 

18, 1870 55 

18, 1870 56 

18, 1870 56 

30, 1870 57 

30, 1870 57 

30, 1870 57 

30, 1870 57 

30, 1870 57 

30, 1870 57 

9, 1870 60 

9, 1870 65 

9,1870 66 

9, 1870 67 

15, 1870 68 

17, 1870 69 

17, 1870 69 

17, 1870 70 



27, 1870 

27, 1870 

4, 1870 

4, 1870 

10, 1870 

24, 1870 

24, 1870 

24, 1870 

24, 1870 

24, 1870 

24, 1870 

24, 1890 

24, 1870 

15, 1870 

15, 1870 

7, 1870 

7, 1870 

7, 1870 

7, 1870 

7, 1870 

7, 1870 

7, 1870 

7, 1870 



7i 
7i 
73 

75 
75 

77 

78 
78 
79 
79 
79 
80 
86 
82 

83 
86 
86 
86 
87 



90 
9i 



7, 1870 91 



12, 1870 92 
27, 1870 94 



INDEX 



Grand Hotel, Paris June 27, 1870 

Hotel des Invalides June 27, 1870 

Church of St. Roch June 27, 1870 

St. Cloud June 27, 1870 

The Louvre, Paris June 27, 1870 

Fontainebleau June 27, 1870 

Souvenirs of French Kings June 27, 1870 

Empress Eugenie June 27, 1870 

Malmaison June 27, 1870 

Church of Rueil June 27, 1870 

St. Germain-des-Pres . . . June 27, 1870 

Pere La Chaise June 27, 1870 

Tomb of Abelard and 

Heloise June 27, 1870 

Langham Hotel, London. July 18, 1870 

WAR DECLARED July 18, 1870 

Westminster Abbey July 18, 1870 

Chaucer's Tomb July 18, 1870 

Chapel of Henry 7th. . . . July 18, 1870 
Tomb of Mary, Queen of 

Scots July 18, 1870 

Coronation Chair July 18, 1870 

London Tower July 18, 1870 

National Picture Gallery. July 18, 1870 
Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane 

Grey July 18, 1870 

British Museum July 18, 1870 

Crystal Palace July 18, 1870 

Concert, Christine Nilsson, 
Faure, Sineco and Tre- 

belli Bellini. July 18, 1870 

Dr. Spurgeon July 18, 1870 

St. Paul's Service July 18, 1870 

Leamington July 21, 1870 

Warwick Castle July 21, 1870 

Kenilworth July 21, 1870 

Last of the Barons July 21, 1870 

Guy's Cliff... ... July 21, 1870 

Amy Robsart July 21, 1870 

Stoneleigh Abbey. ..... .July 21, 1870 

Stratford on Avon July 24, 1870 

Charlecote. July 24, 1870 

Shakespeare's Tomb July 24, 1870 

Red Horse Inn. July 24, 1870 

Matlock Bath Aug. 2, 1870 

Derwent Water Aug. 2, 1870 

Home of Florence Night- 
ingale Aug. 2, 1870 

Peacock Inn Aug. 2, 1870 

Haddon Hall Aug. 2, 1870 

Chatsworth Aug. 2, 1870 

Gardens at Chatsworth. .Aug. 2, 1870 

Manchester Aug. 2, 1870 

Lake Windemere Aug. 2, 1870 

Keswick Aug. 2, 1870 

Grasmere Aug. 2, 1870 

Thirlemere Aug. 2, 1870 

Rydal Water Aug. 2, 1870 

Ambleside Aug. 2, 1870 

Greta Hall Aug. 2, 1870 

Southey Aug. 2, 1870 

Edinburgh Aug. 3, 1870 

Dr. Stuart Aug. 3, 1870 



94 
95 
95 
96 

97 



99 
99 
99 
99 
99 

99 
101 
101 

IOI 

102 
I02 

I02 
I02 
103 
IO3 

IO4 
IO4 
IO4 



05 
06 
06 
07 

07 
08 
09 
09 
09 
09 
IO 
IO 
II 
12 
13 
13 

13 
13 
14 
H 
15 
15 
15 
16 
16 
16 
l6 
l6 
16 
l6 
16 
16 



St. Giles Aug. 

John Knox Aug. 

Edinburgh Aug. 

Carlton Hill Aug. 

Edinburgh Castle Aug. 

Holyrood Castle Aug. 

Leith Aug. 

Queen Mary's Bath House . Aug. 

Holyrood Abbey Aug. 

Tolbooth Aug. 

John Knox Aug. 

Heart of Midlothian Aug. 

Crown of Scotland and 

Regalia Aug. 

Roslin Castle and Chapel Aug. 
Llouse of Earl of Buc- 

cleugh .Aug. 

Legend of the Chapel at 

Roslin Aug. 

Greyfriars Churchyard. . .Aug. 

Cowgate .Aug. 

Grass Market Aug. 

Queen Mary's Prayer. . . .Aug. 
Grave of the Covenanters. Aug. 
Mrs. Peter Leslie's Tomb.Aug. 

Stirling Castle Aug. 

Inscription on Tomb at 

Stirling .Aug. 

Inscription on House of 

Earl of Mar Aug. 

Perth Aug. 

Banavie .Aug. 

Aberdeen Aug. 

Keith Aug. 

Inverness Aug. 

Battle Field of Colloden. . Aug. 
Caledonian Canal. . .... .Aug. 

Loch Ness, Loch Oich. . . .Aug. 

Loch Lochy Aug. 

Ben Nevis. . . Aug. 

Braes of Lochaber Aug. 

Inverlochy Castle .Aug. 

Oban .'.' Aug. 

Fingal's Cave Aug. 

Pier of Granton .Aug. 

Across German Ocean.. . .Aug. 
Christiansand, Norway. .. Aug. 

Gothaburg .. .Aug.' 

Gotha Kallare, GothaburgAug. 

Concert at Park Aug. 

Museum of Art Aug. 

Visit to the Whale .Aug. 

Trollhatten Falls Aug. 

Meals in Sweden Aug. 

Trip by Canal, Sweden.. .Aug. 

Stockholm Aug. 

Royal Rooms Aug. 

Stockholm like Paris Aug. 

Djurgatan, Finest Park in 

Europe Aug. 

Hotel in Place Gustavus 

Adolphus Aug. 

Public Gardens, Music 

and Fireworks -Aug. 



3, 


1870 


116 


3. 


1870 


116 


3, 


1870 


116 


3» 


1870 


116 


3, 


1870 


116 


3. 


1870 


116 


3, 


1870 


117 


3, 


1870 


118 


3, 


1870 


118 


3, 


1870 


118 


3, 


1870 


118 


3, 


1870 


119 


3, 


1870 


119 


3, 


1870 


119 


3, 


1870 


119 


3, 


1870 


120 


3, 


1870 


120 


3, 


1870 


120 


3, 


1870 


120 


3, 


1870 


120 


4. 


1870 


121 


4. 


1870 


122 


4> 


1870 


122 


4, 


1870 


122 


4, 


1870 


123 


4- 


1870 


123 


7, 


1870 


123 


7, 


1870 


124 


7, 


1870 


124 


7, 


1870 


124 


7, 


1870 


124 


7. 


1870 


124 


7, 


1870 


124 


7, 


1870 


124 


7, 


1870 


12 q 


8, 


1870 


126 


8, 


1870 


126 


8, 


1870 


126 


8, 


1870 


126 


22, 


1870 


127 


22, 


1870 


127 


22, 


1870 


127 


22, 


1S70 


127 


22, 


1870 


128 


22, 


1870 


128 


22, 


1870 


128 


22, 


1870 


128 


22, 


1870 


129 


22, 


1870 


129 


22, 


1870 


130 


22, 


1870 


130 


22, 


1870 


130 


22, 


1870 


131 


22, 


1870 


131 


22, 


1870 


131 


22, 


1870 


131 



INDEX 



Royal Palace, Stockholm Aug. 
President Lincoln's Gift 

of Colt's Revolvers. . . .Aug. 
In Museum, Boots of 

Charles 12th Aug. 

Mr. Andrews, American 

Minister Aug. 

The King Aug. 

Salmon, Regular Food . . . Aug. 
DelightsofTravelby Canal Aug. 

Finland Aug. 

Aland Islands Aug. 

Large City Aug. 

Cathedral Aug. 

Helsingfors Aug. 

Beginning to Hear Russian 

Language Aug. 

Russian Church Aug. 

Lutheran Church Aug. 

Strawberries, All Year 

Treat Aug. 

Wiborg Aug. 

First Ride in Drostky . . . .Aug. 
Mon Repos, Residence of 

Governor of Finland. . .Aug. 

Russian Sailors Aug. 

Sunday Night Ball Aug. 

Soup Made of Fruits. . . .Aug. 

St. Petersburg Aug. 

Cronstadt .Aug. 

Church of St. Isaac. . .'. . .Aug. 
Marvellous Things in St. 

Isaac , Aug. 

Wonderful View from the 

Dome .Aug. 

Cathedral of Our Lady of 

Kajan .Aug. 

Common People and Their 

Dress Aug. 

Hotel d'Angleterre, St. 

Petersburg Sept. 

Hermitage, St. Petersburg Sept. 
National Museum, St. 

Petersburg .Sept. 

Trip to the Island in the 

Neva Sept. 

Boat and Chair of Peter 

the Great Sept. 

Flower from Votive Offer- 
ing on Tomb of Czar 

Nicholas Sept. 

Peterhoff Sept. 

Pleasure Houses in the 

Grounds Sept. 

Mon Plaisir Sept. 

Fountains Rivalling Those 

at Versailles Sept. 

The Great Theatre and 

Russian Ballet Sept. 

Grand Duke Nicolai Sept. 

Services at Convent of 

Alexander of Neoshoi. .Sept. 
Fine Singing of Monks. . .Sept. 



22, 


1870 


131 


22, 


1870 


131 


22, 


1870 


131 


22, 


1870 


132 


22, 


1870 


132 


22, 


1870 


132 


22 


1870 


132 


26, 


1870 


132 


26, 


1870 


133 


26, 


1870 


133 


26, 


1870 


L33 


27, 


1870 


J 33 


27, 


1870 


133 


27, 


1870 


L34 


27, 


1870 


134 


27, 


1870 


1.34 


28, 


1870 


134 


28, 


1870 


134 


28, 


1870 


ns 


28, 


1870 


131 


28, 


1870 


131 


28, 


1870 


136 


29, 


1870 


136 


29, 


1870 


136 


29, 


1870 


136 


29, 


1870 


137 


29, 


1870 


137 


29, 


1870 


138 


29, 


1870 


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I ; 


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140 


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* J 


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1 J 


1870 


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1870 


141 



Furs Sept. 

Moscow Sept. 

School of Mines Sept. 

State Carriages Sept. 

Fatiguing Journey from 
St. Petersburg Sept. 

Railroad Station and Tea. Sept. 

Fleas Sept. 

Moscow Sept. 

Kremlin and its Wonders. Sept. 

Tower of Ivan the TerribleSept. 

Holy Gate Sept. 

Great Bell of Moscow. . . .Sept. 

Wonderful Bells Sept. 

House of the Holy Synod. Sept. 

Holy Oil vase of Mary 
Magdalen Sept. 

Czar drilling Cavalry. . . .Sept. 

Appearance of Russian 
people Sept. 

Church of the Assump- 
tion and of St. Basil the 
Beatified Sept. 

Sparrow Hills Sept. 

Songs of Peasants Sept. 

Nijni-Novgorod Sept. 

Bought Russian Sables. . .Sept. 

St. Petersburg Sept. 

Winter Palace Sept. 

Crown Jewels of Russia . . Sept. 

Czar's Children's Play 
House Sept. 

Miseries of Drostky RidingSept. 

Warsaw Sept. n 

54-hour Ride to Vienna . . . Sept. 1 1 

St. Stephen's Church, 

Vienna Sept. 1 1 

Gay Life of Vienna Sept. 11 

Prosperous People of 
Vienna Sept. 15 

Schonbrunn Sept. 15 

Opera House Sept. 15 

Glorietta Temple Sept. 15 

Church of the Capucines, 
Tombs of Royal FamiliesSept. 15 

Sarcophagus of Maria 
Theresa Sept. 1 5 

Church of the Augustines . Sept. 1 5 

Canova's Tomb of Chris- 
tine Sept. 15 

Treasury and Museum.. .Sept. 15 

Crown Jewels of Austria, 

Bohemia and Hungary. Sept. 15 

Imperial Library Sept. 15 

Torquato Tasso's Jeru- 
salem Delivered Sept. 15 

Royal Riding School Sept. 15 

Picture Gallery, Belvedere. Sept. 15 

Strauss Band at Folks- 
garten Sept. 15 

Salzburg Sept. 15 

Mozart's Home Sept. 15 

Geneva Sept. 19 



[870 
[870 
[870 
[870 

1870 
[870 
(870 
[870 
[870 
[870 
[870 
[870 
1870 
[870 

[870 
[870 

[870 



[870 
[870 
1870 
[870 
[870 
[870 
1870 
[870 

[870 
[870 
[870 
1870 

1870 
[870 

(870 
[870 
1870 
1870 

1870 

1870 
1870 

[870 
[870 

1870 
[870 

[870 
[870 
1870 

[870 
1870 
[870 
[870 



[41 
[42 
[42 
[42 

[42 
[42 
143 
143 
'43 
[43 
'43 
'43 
[44 
[44 

'44 

[44 

'45 



'45 
[46 
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146 
I4 6 
' 4 7 
'47 
[47 

'47 
[48 
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[ 4 9 

' 4 9 
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150 

'SO 

'SO 
'So 

'SO 
'Si 

'Si 
'Si 

'Si 
'Si 
'Si 

'52 

'52 

[52 

[52 



23 



INDEX 



Munich Sept. 19 

Picture Galleries Sept. 19 

Great Statue of Bavaria. .Sept. 19 

Pinacothek Sept. 19 

Royal Palace Sept. 19 

Music at the Cathedral.. .Sept. 19 

Bronze Factories Sept. 19 

Trophies at the Arsenal. .Sept. 19 
Zurich via Romanshorn. .Sept. 19 

Zug Sept. 19 

Arth Sept. 19 

Ascent of the Rhighi Sept. 19 

Description of the Rhighi . Sept. 19 

Kiissnacht Sept. 19 

Immensee Sept. 19 

Tell's Chapel Sept. 19 

Sunset in Descent from 

Rhighi Sept. 19 

Naples .Sept. 25 

Lake Lucerne Sept. 25 

Hotel Schweizer Hof Sept. 25 

Lucerne Sept. 25 

Brunig Pass .Sept. 25 

Alpine Songs and Alpine 

Horn Sept. 25 

Lungern. Sept. 25 

Brienz .Sept. 25 

Scenery in Switzerland. . .Sept. 25 

Falls of Giesbach. Sept. 25 

Interlaken. . . . Sept. 25 

Jungfrau at Sunset Sept. 25 

Griindelwald Glacier Sept. 25 

Alpine Horn Sept. 25 

Thun and Lake Thun. . . .Sept. 25 

Naples Sept. 25 

Pompeii and Hercula- 

neum Sept. 25 

Baise Sept. 25 

Cumae and Lake Avernus.Sept. 25 
Cape Micenae and Dead 

Sea Sept. 25 

Grotto of the Cumaean 

Sibyl . . . . .Sept. 25 

Hot Baths of Nero Sept. 25 

Beauty of the Bay of 

Naples Sept. 25 

Florence Sept. 28 

Entry of Victor Eman- 
uel in Rome Sept. 28 

The Pope Sept. 28 

Breach in Roman Walls by 

Italians Sept. 28 

Italian Military Music. . .Sept. 28 
Organ at Fribourg, Switz- 
erland Sept. 28 

Ouchy Sept. 28 

Lakes of Europe Sept. 28 

Geneva Sept. 28 

Chamounix. Sept. 28 

Funny Diligence Sept. 28 

Sunset on Mt. Blanc. . . . .Sept. 28 



870 
87c 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 

870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 

870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 

870 
870 
870 

870 

870 
870 

870 
870 

870 
870 

870 
870 

870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 



52 

52 

52 
52 

53 
53 
53 
53 
53 
53 
53 
54 
54 
54 
54 
54 

54 
55 
55 
55 
55 
55 

55 
56 
56 
56 
56 
56 
56 
57 
57 
57 
58 

58 
58 
58 

58 

58 
58 

58 
59 

59 
59 

59 
59 

60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
61 



Venice Oct. 

Verona Oct. 

Town Hall and Palace of 

Scaligers Oct. 

Roman Amphitheatre. . . .Oct. 
Tomb of Romeo and Juliet. Oct. 
Snow Storm in the Tyrol. Oct. 

Innsbruck Oct. 

Hotel de la Poste, Kuf- 

stein Oct. 

Brenner Pass Oct. 

Chamounix, Mer de Glace.Oct. 

Mauvais Pas Oct. 

Grand Mulets Ascent. . . .Oct. 

Chalet on Way Oct. 

Avalanches and Crevasses.Oct. 

Wall of Ice Oct. 

Tied Together with Ropes.Oct. 
Comical Costume for the 

Climb Oct. 

Terrible Dangers and Fa- 
tigue .Oct. 

Over the Tete Noire Oct. 

Wonderful Views from the 

Tete Noire Oct. 

Martigny Oct. 

The Excursion of School 

Boys Oct. 

Diligence to Brigue. Oct. 

Simplon Pass '.'.'. .Oct. 

Arona Oct. 

Hospice of St. Bernard.. .Oct. 

St. Bernard Dogs Oct. 

Domo d'Ossola Oct. 

Lake Maggiore . . .Oct. 

Isola Bella Oct. 

Gardens of Duke Bor- 

romeo * Oct. 

Luino. Oct. 

Lugano. . . , ". .Oct. 

Lake Como Oct. 

Menaggio. .Oct. 

Camerlata Oct. 

Milan '. Oct. 

Brussels Dec. 

Antwerp .Dee. 

Cathedral and Paintings . Dec. 

Market Writers Dec. 

London Dec. 

Messe Solenelleof Rossini Dec. 
Titiens, Sims Reeves and 

Alboni Dec. 

Titiens and Alboni Sing 

"Qui Tollis" D^c- 
Liverpool .Dec. 

Paris Newspaper Sent out 

of Siege on Balloon. . . .Dec. 
Little Inconvenience from 

Franco-Prussian War . .Dec. 
On Board Ship Dec. 



30, 


1870 i( 


30, 


1870 i( 


30, 


1870 1 


30, 


1870 1 


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1870 1 


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187c 1 


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1870 1 


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24 




EN ROUTE 

New York, Friday, Oct. 29th, 1869. 
Dear Mother, 

This is the last opportunity I shall have to write before 
we sail, which will be to-morrow at 2 o'clock. 

We sail in the French Steamer Pereire, and father heard 
to-day that one of the German Line sails at the same time and 
it is to be a race between them, the Pereire is one of the 
fastest steamers, its last trip was the fastest on record. We 
have got a heavy lap blanket and sea-chair apiece, and are 
going. to have a state room together so if Father is sick I can 
take care of him. Our address will be in Paris, Care Munroe 
& Co., No. 7 Rue Scribe. Emma Rosengarten is to be mar- 
ried the last of next month and Frank is not coming home. 
I feel rather blue when I think how far we are going, but of 
course I shall enjoy it immensely. Do all of you write me 
often. With much love to all 

Your afT. daughter 

M. D. R. 

Paris, Friday, Nov. 19, 1869. 
Dear Frank, 

I don't wonder you were surprised to hear from me 
on this side of the water. The truth of the matter is I 
did not know of it myself until about four weeks before we 
started. In October Father was taken sick. He came straight 
through to New York, where I met him and we sailed on the 
Pereire on the 30th of October. 

25 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Our plan is to spend the winter in Italy; shall probably 
remain here a week longer, leaving here the first of week 
after next for Marseilles. We shall go to Nice and other 
places and intend to be in Rome during the Holidays. Father 
expects to stay longer in Naples than anywhere else on account 
of the climate. He will return in the spring and I expect to 
remain at the Musical Conservatoire at Milan, but may go 
to some other. We did think a little of going to Stuttgart 
thinking that friends will be there, but as they are not and 
we would have to go just that much out of our way and 
return to Paris again, it would be foolish. Besides I shall 
have opportunities to travel with friends next summer 
through Switzerland and Germany. 

I am going to do my best to get Father to go to Athens.* 
Can't you meet us somewhere and go with us and perhaps to 
Egypt? Wouldn't it be fun? Don't you think you will be 
able to come to see me somewhere before you return. I 
can't go to see you so you ought to come to me. Of course 
I wouldn't expect you to come specially for that purpose, 
but you can arrange some of your vacation trip so we can 
meet. I must close this as I am going out. Write me soon 
will you not ? I stand very much in need of letters, have not 
heard a word from home. 

Yours truly, 

M. D. R. 



* Not till 1903 were visits to Athens and Egypt made. 




FRANCE 

Hotel de Paradis, 
Nice, Dec. 8th, 1869. 
Dear Jimmy and Lolly, 

I shall direct this letter to you, because I got such a nice 
letter from both of you to-day. 

We left Paris last Thursday morning. We arrived at 
Lyons at 11 o'clock at night, and put up at the Grand Hotel. 
We all started out early in the morning to see the town of 
Lyons. Went first to an old church founded on the site of a 
palace in which Caligula was born, then we ascended the Height 
of Fourriere where on a clear day you can see Mont Blanc and 
the Alps a hundred miles off. 

There is a church on the top, containing a miraculous 
image of the Virgin. It is dressed in gold cloth and big 
as a good-sized doll and when there is an invalid to be cured, 
it comes out and holds a doll baby in long clothes over their 
heads. The church is filled with crutches of the people who 
have been cured. Then we went to see a church with a won- 
derful clock that has little wooden images that popped out 
from holes and staggered around and went back again, and 
a cock that crowed very faintly, and one of them was gilded 
and was called the angel Gabriel. 

The most interesting of all the places are the manufac- 
tories of silk and velvet. They all are small aifairs each 
owned by separate persons, and not conducted on a large scale 

like ours. We saw elegant silks and velvets and damasks for 

27 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

furniture, but the most wonderful are the portraits woven in 
black and white silk. We bought one of Louis Napoleon to 
take home. 

The next day we came on to Marseilles, where we had our 
first glimpse of the Mediterranean. The scenery was magnifi- 
cent, and on the way we saw lots of old Roman ruins, aque- 
ducts and amphitheatres. At Avignon we saw the Palace of 
the Popes who used to live there, also the home of Petrarch the 
poet. His "Laura" is buried in one of the churches there. 
Rienzi, the Roman tribune, was also once confined at Avignon. 
On the way they showed us the rock from which Pontius Pilate 
threw himself down. 

The country is very barren, the hills are principally chalk, 
but every square foot of ground which can be cultivated is 
covered with grape vines. Between Lyons and Marseilles is 
the great wine country, where the finest wines in France 
are made, and we began to find olive trees also. 

Marseilles is a beautiful city, with the Mediterranean in 
front and a mass of mountains directly behind. 

I was taken sick the next morning with a touch of the ague 
and didn't go out at all with Father but went the next day 
riding. From one of the hills behind the city there is one of 
the finest views I ever saw. The immense chalky hills and the 
valleys filled with vines and olive trees taken with the beautiful 
blue of the Mediterranean, combine to form a view intensely 
picturesque. 

The celebrated Corniche Road commences at Marseilles. 
We drove along it for a mile or two then turned into the Prado 
which is the fashionable drive. It is full of fine buildings, 
the Imperial Chateau, Palais de Justice, and Palais de Long- 
champs. In front of the latter and a part of the building is a 
magnificent fountain, the handsomest we have seen. On the 
Island is the prison where Mirabeau was confined. There is 
also a Monument to Cataline and baths named after him. 

We were two days in Marseilles and then came on here. On 

the way we saw quantities of vineyards and olive trees, towards 

28 



FRANCE 

the last orange trees, and here and there roses, red and pink 
and all kinds of flowers in full bloom in the open air. There 
is a magnificent promenade all along the sea planted with 
orange, palm and date trees, and the water comes rolling in 
and dashes almost over it. Along this are fine hotels and ele- 
gant villas. 

There are plenty of the nobility here at this season of the 
year. A gentleman told father he saw the Duke of Newcastle 
gambling in the Casino yesterday. They have music on the 
promenade every afternoon and all the people in town walk 
there at that time. Tomorrow we go out to see the kingdom 
of Monaco, the smallest in the world, but it has its palace and 
fortifications and theatres, &c and all the things pertaining to a 
large one — and on Friday we leave for Genoa by the Corniche 
Road by carriage, it will take two days. I am too tired to write 
any more to-night. If you only knew how fatiguing it is. to sit 
up and write late at night when you have been on your feet 
all day you would appreciate these letters. I will finish this 
to-morrow. 

Thursday Night. Dec. 9th, 1869. 

We have just returned from Monaco, having spent the 
day there. We had a car to ourselves, being eight in number. 
It took us an hour by railroad passing through the most beau- 
tiful scenery. The railroad is for the most part tunnelled 
through the high rocky cliffs that rise abruptly from the Med- 
iterranean, and the rest runs along embankments close to 
the sea. 

The Kingdom of Monaco is built on a very high prom- 
ontory of solid rock, is surrounded by high walls mounted 
with cannon and contains a small town and palace. The 
reigning family dates back to the tenth century, and the pres- 
ent prince has just married the Duke of Hamilton's daughter, 
and there was a splendid green arch to their honor and flags 
flying in every direction. We went first to the part that is 
leased to an English Company for a summer resort. There 

they have a fine garden-hotel and a Casino where there is a 

29 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

fine instrumental concert, free, and gambling rooms. We saw 
men and women gamble at roulette and rouge et noir. I 
think it is a disgusting sight. 

To-morrow at noon we take the cars for Mentone, where 
we take a carriage and drive all the way to Genoa, which will- 
take until Sunday night, from there we shall go to Leghorn and 
run out to Pisa to see the leaning tower, and from there by 
sea to Naples. This morning we went through the old Italian 
part of this town. We had to go single file and the streets 
which you would call alleys are so narrow that you could 
shake hands across from one house to another, and the smells 
are beyond description, what with filth and garlic. 

I am making a collection of stereoscopic views and photo- 
graphs, and making a flower album. I wish I could buy some 
of the elegant bronzes and inlaid wood tables I find everywhere. 
Perhaps I shall get a book rack. I cannot possibly write 
letters and keep a diary too, and I want to have my letters 
for a diary on my return. Jimmy and Lolly will be interested 
to know that I sat beside a real Russian princess at dinner 
yesterday! 

Women go round the streets driving donkeys about as 
big as Jack. Men drive three horses abreast and all the 
horses have great peaks on the harness between their ears. 
The men do the chamber work and the women act as clerks. 
We see women carrying fresh sardines in baskets and crying 
"Bella sardina" and saw loads of orange trees loaded down 
with ripe oranges. It is just as warm here as late in April 
with us, and they don't have colder weather. Will write 
from Genoa if possible. With much love to all, 

Your aff. sister, M. D. R. 

Father is looking better than I ever saw him, and in ex- 
cellent spirits. 




ITALY 



Naples, Dec. 18th, 1869. 

Hotel du Louvre. 
Dear Cliff, 

I have been trying to summon up courage for three nights 
to write to some of you, but if you could only know how tired 
we come home every night you would not wonder. 

I believe that very last letter finished with our stay at Nice. 
We left there the next morning in the cars for Mentone, where 
we spent the night, — it is becoming a rival of Nice as a resort 
for invalids, has a lovely promenade on the sea, and protected 
on the north by a high wall of mountains. In the evening we 
took a walk, climbed up very narrow streets and long flights 
of steps, old Roman Masonry, to the top of the hill, where 
they have converted an old Roman fortress into a cemetery. 

It was most weird and romantic — after poking round 
through the olive groves on top of the hill in the half moon- 
light we came down into a Plaza with two large churches facing 
each other, and the stone pavement, and one gas lamp light- 
ing the whole, once in awhile a figure creeping out of the shad- 
ows just like a scene in an opera, which has always seemed so 
unnatural. When we were coming down through one of the 
narrow streets, where you could shake hands across, in turn- 
ing a sharp corner, two old women poked their heads out of 
the doors so suddenly that, with the deathly silence all round, 
we were quite startled. I can't imagine anything more "poker- 

31 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

ish," as Mrs. Place would say, than the funny narrow streets 
in these places! 

The next morning we took a carriage in which we rode 
all the way to Savona within a few miles of Genoa, taking 
two days. It was a most delightful drive along a perfectly 
built road skirting the shores of the Mediterranean, in some 
places reaching an elevation of two thousand feet, and through 
grove after grove of olive and orange trees, and along beaches, 
where a fine surf comes rolling in. 

The first day we took dinner at San Remo, an interesting 
old town built on arches, and stopped over at Oneglia. All 
along the road we saw the old ruins of Roman fortresses and 
the chain of towers built on all the high points, visible from 
each other so that they could signal from one to the other. It 
was a rare sight to see the Mediterranean rolling in at our feet, 
and feel the warm air around us and at the same time to see the 
Maritime Alps, their tops one mass of glittering snow, coming 
down almost into the sea. 

We arrived in Genoa "the Superb" Saturday night at 
nine o'clock and' went right to bed. The next day we 
started out early in the morning and went first to the 
cathedral built of black and white marble, in which there is 
a chapel of St. John the Baptist, where his bones are kept 
locked up and ladies are not allowed to enter, by order of 
the Pope. We also saw another church which was modelled 
after St. Peter's at Rome, and contained four magnificent 
statues and one of them a celebrated St. Sebastian. We 
went next to the Palazzo Doria, which was the residence of 
Andreas Doria called the father of his country, and once Doge 
of Genoa. It has a fine garden, and contains many interest- 
ing things, such as the chair in which he used to ride around 
the city, and opposite to the windows of the chamber in which 
he died is the monument he erected to his dog. 

At the Palazzo Brignoli we saw a magnificent collection of 
paintings, among them the celebrated "St. Sebastian" by Guido 
Reni, and Madonna by the same and the "Tribute Money" by 

32 



ITALY 

Vandyke, also portraits of three members who have been 
Doges of the Republic. The two sisters of the last one are 
living one at Milan and the other at Paris. From there we 
went to see one of the finest villas in the suburbs. The house 
was on a level with the street and the garden built up in ter- 
races behind it, so high that one could see all over Genoa from 
the top. There were most beautiful fountains and grottos. 

In the evening at nine o'clock we were taken with our 
trunks in a sort of dory out to the steamer for Leghorn and 
Naples. All that night Emma and I were terribly sick and 
thought we should die before morning, and quite made up 
our minds we would not go to Egypt. 

We were in Leghorn early in the morning and after break- 
fast went to shore in a little boat. As soon as we had put our 
feet on shore we were surrounded by at least thirty ragamuffins 
each one of whom wanted us to hire his horse and carriage. 

They didn't pay any attention to Father, but devoted 
themselves to Emma and me because we understand them and 
Father would insist upon screaming English at the top of his 
voice and gesticulating with his cane. After we had ridden 
round the city and visited several churches and the water- 
works, we took the cars to Pisa, where we visited the Grand 
Cathedral and the Leaning Tower. The tower consists of 
eight stories supported by Corinthian columns of white marble, 
some of them quite new and others looking very dilapidated. 
When the bells ring they shake the whole tower. We heard 
them just after we had come down, and they were very musical. 

The greater portion of the town has lately been inundated 
by the Arno, and as we walked through the town we saw 
them scraping out the settlings of mud and filth from the 
stores and churches. After that we went back and had 
our dinner in a restaurant at Leghorn and went back to the 
steamer. And all that night we suffered horrors untold with 
seasickness, while father was not sick at all, but he came very 
near it. During one hour it was so rough that he couldn't put 
into practice his method of accommodating himself to the mo- 

3 33 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

tion of the boat, for when he thought the boat had gone down 
far enough it did not come up again but went down further still. 

We arrived at Naples early Thursday morning, and have 
had the most delightful weather imaginable. I have a room 
in the front of the house facing the promenade, which runs 
along the seashore, and is planted with beautiful trees, palms 
and orange trees, and a place for people to ride on horse- 
back. Every afternoon thousands of people walk here and 
ride up and down on horseback and in carriages, dressed in 
the most elegant velvet costumes, pink and blue silks. From 
our window we have the whole view of the bay of Naples with 
Vesuvius and Herculaneum on the left, the Island of Capri 
directly in front and Baise and Ischia on the right and at sun- 
set nothing could be more beautiful than the effect of the 
scenery and the promenade and all the elegant turnouts 
and gaily dressed people and the music. 

It is so warm we can open our windows before we are 
done dressing and keep them open all day until the sun goes 
down. We have given one day to shopping, i. e. looking at 
coral and gloves. You can get those sets of coral flowers 
very cheap, comparatively, but they are so frail that they are 
not worth buying, and are old style besides. The new style 
is heads, but not like mother's, that is they are not set in 
gold, but are modelled after the antique and have two and 
three heads in a row with pendants. They are more expen- 
sive because they require larger pieces of coral. I think I 
would rather have a set of coral, necklace and bracelets, than 
to have any other kind of jewelry for of course I can afford 
to have but one set, and I would rather have that one hand- 
some than to have more and poorer quality. 

I am on the dead run every minute to see one thousandth 
part of what there is to be seen. I shall buy some small 
scarfs in Rome for us all. I think we shall not attempt to 
buy any pictures. I have to sit up late at night when I am 
nearly dead in order to write. My love to all. 

Yours aff. M. D. R. 

34 



ITALY 

Rome, Jan. 2nd, 1870. 
Hotel del America. 
Dear Aunt Mary, 

I have gotten so behindhand that I have hardly courage 
to commence. We have been now in Rome a week, having 
arrived here Christmas eve. We were in Naples eight days, 
and in that time managed to see almost everything but the 
Blue Grotto, at Capri and that can only be seen for a few 
days during the year, as the surface of the water is so near 
the roof of the entrance that if there is the slightest ripple 
on the water an entrance cannot be effected. 

We spent most of the time in Naples in visiting the sur- 
roundings, which are very beautiful. One day we devoted to 
Posilipo, Pozzuoli and Baise, saw the temples of Venus, 
Mercury, Jupiter and Diana. At the former were found the 
four celebrated Venuses now in the Museum at Naples. At 
Pozzuoli we visited the extinct volcano of Solfatera, which 
was in action at the same time with Vesuvius when Pompeii 
was destroyed. The crater is almost circular and about a mile 
in circumference, and at one side is a small opening from 
which sulphurous smoke pours out. The heat is so intense 
that there is danger in holding one's hand near it, and the 
mouth of the opening is red hot, while down inside one can 
hear a terrible warning noise, which makes you feel that you 
are on pretty dangerous ground. 

Near this volcano which is on the opposite side of Naples 
from Vesuvius, is the old Roman Amphitheatre, where the 
Emperor Nero sometimes fought in the arena. Along that 
hill which extends from Pozzuoli to Baise are the summer 
residences of some of the distinguished Romans, and they 
showed us the ruins of Julius Caesar's villa, and that of Nero, 
and many other celebrated Romans, also the hot baths of 
Nero, where the water which is brought from the Solfatera 
is so hot that it boils an egg easily. 

Our most amusing adventure was in the Cave of the 
Cumaean Sibyl which is described by Virgil in the iEneid. 

35 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We went into a long subterranean passage, and there we had 
to get on the backs of men provided for the purpose, who wade 
through water up to the knees, through narrow circuitous 
passages and finally deposit you on a slab of stone about two 
inches above the level of the water. The soot from the torches 
used there for years has enveloped everything, but they brush 
it away and show you the ancient frescoes all over the walls. 
In the time of the Sibyl the water was not there but was intro- 
duced warm from the hillside into the large stone bath tubs, 
now under water, one for the use of the Sibyl and one for Nero. 
They show also the small opening through the thick wall from 
this chamber into the open passage where the Cavaliers of the 
day used to stand to receive the divinations of the Sibyl. 

Father had the slimmest guide of all and it was a laughable 
sight to see him on the poor man's back. But the funniest 
of all was to see him going up Vesuvius. We took a whole 
day for that, leaving Naples in the nine o'clock train and com- 
mencing the ascent with horses from Portici. We were on 
the horses about an hour and a half. After we had passed 
the hermitage about half an hour we left our horses and com- 
menced the ascent of the cone which is 1500 feet high. As 
you look up at this it appears almost perpendicular and 
almost impossible for any one to climb, but I knew people 
did it, and although father said he wouldn't attempt it I 
announced my intention to do it, and to walk into the bargain. 

Finally we began the ascent as follows. I ahead, with a 
guide who had a strap over his shoulder of which I took hold, 
and another behind who pushed me up. Next came Emma 
seated in a chair borne on the shoulders of four guides, look- 
ing very much like the Pope when he enters St. Peter's at the 
ceremonials, and father bringing up the rear fixed out, as I 
was, with two guides. When you think that there is no road 
whatever like on Mt. Washington, and that under foot is 
exactly like broken glass bottles and ashes, and with all that in- 
clined at an angle of 45 degrees, you can realize that making an 
ascent of 1500 ft. under such circumstances is no small matter. 

36, 



ITALY 

However, I accomplished it without using the chair, but 
if I live to a thousand years I shall never forget how father 
looked when he was tilting along in the chair at the imminent 
risk of being spilled over backwards and shouting at the top 
of his voice, "On the mountain's top appearing," &c. Once 
arrived on the summit of the crater, we could see nothing 
(and any way there is nothing to see on account of the dense 
clouds which surrounded, and the sulphurous smoke is ter- 
rible). I got very much frightened while I was up above the 
rest on the crater, — after breathing the sulphur three or 
four times I felt I could not take it in again without strang- 
ling, and so I just turned about without being able to see an 
inch before me through the dense smoke, slid down, tumbled 
down, any way to get down from the crater, where I got a 
breath of fresh air and felt as if I had made a narrow escape. 

The descent is made part of the way on that side of the 
mountain where there is nothing but ashes. It seemed quite fear- 
ful to think of first, but is in reality the easiest way, for the ashes 
have so much body to them that you don't slide in further than 
up to your knees, then you pull out that foot and put the other 
in and slide on, only that you reverse the process, really. 

The next day we were all pretty well used up and took 
the day for shopping, buying coral and gloves. On the 
following day we went to Pompeii. We were a little dis- 
appointed to find that all the objects of interest found in the 
houses have been removed to the Museum at Naples to pre- 
serve them. However, there is sufficient to interest one in 
the bare walls, and who last lived there, and under what cir- 
cumstances they took their departure. In the streets are 
the grooves worn by the chariots' wheels, and where the last 
chariot that rolled over them was that of a Sallust or a Cicero. 
The remnants of the Forum, Temples and theatres are all 
very interesting, but the private houses more so. In the cor- 
ner of a room by a barred window we saw a skeleton all doub- 
led up and the head stuffed hard with ashes. In the house 
of Diomedes who was the richest man in Pompeii in one of 

37 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

the underground passages there was on the wall the impress 
of a human body, overtaken there and buried standing up- 
right by the volume of ashes. The skeleton of course was 
removed when found. 

Under Sallust's house was a wine shop, with great stone 
counters with holes in which the wine jugs were set. In all 
the houses the floors are of fine stone mosaics and the walls 
are covered with beautiful frescoes, the finest of which have 
all been conveyed to the Naples Museum. I picked up a few 
pieces of the mosaic to send home. 

Our last day at Naples we spent at Sorrento, which is an 
hour's ride in the cars and an hour's ride in a carriage along a 
lovely coast from Naples. There we saw the most luxuriant 
orange groves we have seen at all. It would be impossible to 
describe the beauty of the Sorrento portion of the famous bay. 
The great hills luxuriantly clothed with verdure rising with 
scarcely any slope out of the sea, — the water dashing up 
against their rocky bases and displaying as many as five or 
six different hues until they all blend in the distance into a 
deep dark blue. 

It was about dark Christmas eve when we arrived in 
Rome, and as we had to get up early in the morning went 
right to bed. At 3 o'clock we dressed and went to St. Peter's 
to hear the Rastorella the only time it is performed during 
the year, but were very much disappointed in it. I don't like the 
soprano voices which belong to men, women not being allowed 
to sing in the Catholic churches here. After it was finished we 
hurried back to the hotel and put on black lace veils over our 
heads and returned as rapidly as possible to the church in 
order to get a good seat in the tribune for the high mass at 
ten o'clock Christmas morning. 

The tribune is a place on one side of the high altar in 
St. Peter's, for the accommodation of ladies, who are only 
admitted, however, in black lace veils. I wish I could give 
you an idea of the magnificence and variety of the costumes 
I saw on that day. First there were the members of the 

38 



ITALY 

Pope's household, his chamberlains, &c., one of whom seated 
the ladies in the tribune I spoke of, and for various other 
purposes were stationed around the church. They are all 
noble and were gorgeously dressed in purple silk short clothes 
and velvet doublet, and deep cuffs of elegant point lace on 
the sleeves, and high white ruffs around the neck, and a short 
velvet cloak hanging from the shoulders, while their coats are 
covered with badges and orders. 

Then there were priests of every order and description, 
some in white and some in red, and brown and black, with 
every degree of shaven head. When the church was quite 
full, and it is said to be capable of holding 40,000 people, the 
Pope's Swiss Guard came in and formed a line around the 
high altar. Their costume is very peculiar, was designed by 
Michael Angelo, consists of slashed trousers of black and yel- 
low and red, and high boots, and the upper part was dressed 
in steel armor while the sleeves matched the trousers and 
steel helmets on their heads, and a long spear called a hal- 
berd in their hands. After them the bishops and archbish- 
ops, Greek and Latin, came in one after another. They 
were most gorgeously dressed in long embroidered robes and 
the Latin with high white pointed mitres. 

The Greeks wore richer dresses and a sort of triple crown in- 
stead of a mitre; they are also bearded while the Latins are not. 
In the meantime the nobility were entering on all sides, — they 
have a separate tribune, the ladies all in black and the gen- 
tlemen also, but with all their orders on. One lady came in 
escorted by five or six footmen, who proved to be the Empress 
of Austria, a tall fine-looking woman. Then we heard a blast 
of trumpets and the Giarde Nobile, the Pope's guard, all the 
members of which belong to the nobility, came in and formed 
a double line the whole length of the church for the Pope to 
pass through. They were dressed in scarlet with white leather 
breeches, and finally, after a great deal of delay, the large 
feather fans made their appearance and we knew the Pope 
was coming. These fans are of large white ostrich feathers 

39 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

set with peacocks' eyes, and are typical of the eyes of all men 
resting upon him, and seven men carrying tall candles go 
before him, referring to those described in the Apocalypse. 

Then there are six men carrying a white silk canopy, under 
which is the Pope in a magnificent white robe, seated on a 
portable throne carried on the shoulders of men, and as he 
passes up the aisle he lifts his hand feebly at intervals to be- 
stow his blessing on the multitude. 

At this ceremony there is always a hat and sword blessed 
and given to some of the nobility. They had the hat bob- 
bing round on a stick during the whole of the ceremony. 
At the conclusion there was a burst of silver trumpets from 
the immense dome, of which the effect is more beautiful than 
can be described. 

I am too tired to write more to-night, in regard to what I 
have seen. It would amuse the children very much to see 
Father shake hands with the little beggars who come after 
him, and they think he is going to give them something but 
they are vastly mistaken. I will write once more before we 
leave and try to tell you all about Rome. 
With much love to all, 
Father continues well. Yours Aff. M. D. R. 

Rome, Jan. 3rd, 1870. 

We have seen so many things in Rome that I can 
scarcely make a beginning, but I think I have seen nothing 
that I prefer to the Coliseum and the Baths of Caracalla. 
The seven hills are all included within the walls, the Capi- 
toline, Palatine, Quirinal, Esquiline, Viminal, Caelius and Aven- 
tine, and the most interesting remnants of old Rome lie near the 
two former. At the foot of the Capitoline are the ruins of the 
Roman Forum, considerably below the level of the modern city. 

There is very little standing now — a colonnade in one 

corner, what is left of the School of Xanthar, and there are 

eight columns of the Temple of Saturn, and three columns 

of the Temple of Jupiter, also the Arch of Septimius 

40 



ITALY 

Severus under which may yet be seen a remnant of the old 
Via Sacra, and the ground all around is covered with frag- 
ments of columns. On the right, and covering the Palatine 
Hill, are the ruins of the Palace of the Caesars, an immense 
mass which has only recently been discovered, the summit 
of the hill having been heretofore a public garden. Since the 
discovery it is being excavated at the expense of Napoleon III. 
They have found three tiers of houses, built one upon 
the other, first that built by Constantine II, that by the 




THE FORUM, ROME 



Caesars, and third that of Romulus. The mosaic pavements 
in these old ruins are most wonderful and the amount of 
elaborate carving in white marble, and the glorious old 
columns are beyond description. Opposite these ruins are the 
Basilica of Constantine, and the temples of Antoninus and 
Faustina, and in between the temple of Venus and Roma, 
and in front of all the Coliseum, the grandest ruins in the 
world. We climbed way up to the top of it, and could hardly 
bear to look down, the height is so tremendous. It is con- 
structed with four rows of seats, the lower for the Emperor 

41 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and Senate, the next for the nobility, the third for the middle 
classes and the highest for the plebeians. 

I bought to-day a very fine stereoscopic view on glass, which 
I paid nearly a dollar for; it is a new kind of view and con- 
sidered very beautiful. One day we visited the Baths of 
Caracalla, a magnificent ruin, with beautiful mosaic pave- 
ments (it was here Shelley wrote most of the Prometheus 
Unbound), and porphyry columns. I took away a few pieces 








INTERIOR OF THE COLISEUM, ROME 

of the mosaic, they are very antique, and look very much 
like malachite, and the same day we went to the Catacombs of 
St. Sebastian. I think we walked a mile or two, and there is 
no knowing how far one could walk. They are merely narrow 
passages lined with holes on each side, for the bodies, and every 
once in awhile altars, and by the side of a great many tombs 
are little bottles which held the blood of the martyrs. 

We went to a church called the Three Fountains, on the 

spot where St. Paul was beheaded. The tradition is that when 

42 



ITALY 

Paul's head fell off it rebounded three times, and at each place a 
miraculous fountain sprang up. Then at another church 
outside the walls, called St. Sebastian, and where there is a 
beautiful reclining statue of that Saint, they show visitors a 
stone in which are the foot-prints of Christ when he appeared 
as a vision to Peter and Paul as they were fleeing from Rome. 
We saw also, in a little church outside the walls, the spot 
where St. Peter was crucified and I took some sand in a little 
bottle. 

Rome, Jan. 4th, 1870. 

To-day we have been all day long in the Vatican, and 
have seen the two finest pictures the world contains, that is 
according to the artistic standard. I think I have seen pic- 
tures that have given me quite as much pleasure, but in 
point of grandeur of conception and beauty and delicacy of 
finish, nothing could excel the "Transfiguration" of Raphael 
and the Last Commission of St. Jerome by Domenichino. 
They are in the Pinacotheca or Picture Gallery in the Vatican. 

The other fine pictures are the Madonna da Foligno, and 
a Magdalen by Guercino and Bavoccio. The celebrated car- 
toons of Raphael are executed in tapestry and hung on the side 
walls of a long corridor. I think I should enjoy the original 
drawings much more. They are in Hampton Court, England, 
I believe. The Stanze of Raphael are distributed through four 
rooms. Among them is the celebrated picture of the deliverance 
of St. Peter from prison and the School of Athens, and a fresco 
called "Poetry" representing Apollo on Mount Parnassus, sur- 
rounded by the muses and Greek, Roman and Italian poets. 
In the whole effect of the Sistine Chapel I was considerably 
disappointed, for it is very much defaced in places, and I 
had expected to see something extremely elegant in detail. 
The things worth remembering in it are the "Last Judgment" 
by Michael Angelo, which occupies one whole end of the 
Chapel and the frescoes on the roof by the same painter 
pleased us as much as anything we have seen, — they repre- 
senting the different stages of the Creation and the Expulsion 

43 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

from Paradise. The two figures of Eve are considered perfect 
representations of female beauty. The statuary of the Vati- 
can is the finest in the world with the exception of a few pieces 
in the Capitol here, and some at Florence. What I liked 
best were the Perseus and two Wrestlers by Canova, the 
celebrated Maleager with hound, the Belvidere Apollo, 
the Belvidere Antinous and the Laocoon. These were the 
finest, but there were Venuses and Minervas and others by 
the thousand, all beautiful in themselves, but comparatively un- 




POPE PIUS IX IN THE GARDEN OF THE VATICAN 

important when viewed beside the great masterpieces. In the 
Palazzo Barberini is the celebrated portrait of Beatrice Cenci. 
The rest of the best works of Art in Rome are to be found 
in the Capitol. This is a collection of large palaces on the 
Summit of the Capitoline hill overhanging the Forum. The 
galleries of sculpture and painting occupy two sides of a 
square and the Hall of Senators a third. In the middle and 
front of the latter are two colossal statues of the Nile and 
Tiber and in the middle of the open square a large statue of 
Marcus Aurelius. It must at one time have been covered 
with gilt as there are traces of it on the neck of the horse. In 

44 



ITALY 

the Sculpture gallery we saw the "Dying Gladiator." I could 
only take a short look at it, which, however, was long enough 
to impress me with the great power of expression displayed in 
it. It represents a Gallic gladiator dying in the arena of the 
Coliseum probably, and the agony in his face is finely expressed. 

In the same room is the Faun of Praxiteles mentioned 
in the "Marble Faun" as the one of Donatello it so strikingly 
resembled. The Venus of the Capitol is kept under lock and 
key, and is a most lovely creation. All these are relics of an- 
cient Roman art. I think the marble the ancients used does 
not compare with the Carrara Marble now in general use 
among Sculptors. 

Our last day in Rome was spent among the studios, but 
as we were all very tired we concluded to visit those of 
American artists only. We went first to Buchanan Read's, 
found him at home and very affable. His paintings are all very 
much in the same style and I must say that I think his con- 
ception of angels is far finer than one sees generally — he makes 
them to appear almost transparent. The "Pleiades " and "Will 
of the Wisp " I liked best of the pictures we saw in his studio. 

Miss Hosmer we did not find at her studio — had just gone 
out. We saw her "Sleeping Faun" and a beautiful fountain 
ordered by an English lady, all very fine works. We went to 
Vinnie Ream's studio partly to see her and partly the statue of 
Lincoln she is making. She was not by any means the beauty 
I expected to see and I was not particularly prepossessed by 
her or her statue, though the face of the latter is very natural. 

Reinhart is the American sculptor who has gained the 
highest reputation in Rome, and we certainly found more 
to admire there than anywhere else. I have no doubt you 
think these letters terribly tedious for I find that I have 
confined myself quite too strictly to the things I have seen, 
but you must remember that it is a great deal more satis- 
factory in the end to have an account of all one's travels, for 
traveling as rapidly as we do it is impossible to remember one- 
half of what we see or what is told us. 

45 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Hotel della Citta, 
Florence, Jan. 7th, 1870. 
Dear Mother, 

We left Rome very early yesterday morning and had a 
very long fatiguing journey here, although we passed through 
some of the loveliest country I have ever seen. The road runs 
along under high mountains, the Apennines, and we had a 
fine view of fertile valleys and high peaks and narrow, swift 
streams and sometimes cataracts. One reason why we were 
so tired was that we were kept awake all the night before by 
the noises in the streets of Rome. It seems that on the night 
of the 5th of January the Pope liberates the Devil in Rome 
for three days, and he is allowed to run loose and do what he 
chooses until the end of that time. And anyone would have 
certainly thought he had really got loose by the noise of the 
men, women and boys who collect and go through the streets 
each playing on a different instrument, and they manage to make 
an outrageous noise. 

As we entered the depot at six o'clock to come here, the 
guns of St. Angelo ushered in the Epiphany and there was to 
be a grand ceremony at St. Peter's. All day yesterday and 
to-day I have been troubled with a terrible cold in my head 
and throat, so we didn't manage to do much sightseeing to- 
day. We went, however, to the Pitti Palace and through 
its Gallery, saw several beautiful Holy Families by Andrea 
del Sarto, and the Madonna del Seggiola of Raphael, con- 
sidered the most beautiful of all Madonnas and indeed it is 
beautiful. But a Holy Family of Andrea del Sarto I like 
just as well. In one of the rooms we saw a most elegant 
mosaic table which cost an almost fabulous price. 

The shops here are filled with mosaic jewelry and paper 
weights inlaid with beautiful flowers almost as perfect as 
nature, and boxes for all sorts of uses. 



46 



ITALY 

Florence, Monday, Jan. ioth, 1870. 

We haven't had one decent day since we arrived here last 
Thursday night, so that we have really seen very little of 
Florence. One day we spent in the Pitti Palace, which is the 
residence of Victor Emmanuel. This Palace is on one side 
of the river and the Uffizi on the other, — they are both used 
as galleries of Art, and are connected by a long narrow pas- 
sage built over the tops of the houses and that crosses the bridge 
over the Arno in the same way. In the Uffizi we saw the cele- 
brated Venus di Medici, in which I was dreadfully disappointed, 
the Dancing Faun, the Young Apollo, the Wrestlers and 
Antonino or slave whetting his knife, five works of great celeb- 
rity as well as antiquity. The finest of the paintings in 
this gallery were the Madonna of the Goldfinch, and of Ra- 
phael and his celebrated Fornarina, the Venus alluded to by 
Byron, Guercino's Sibyl, and a Madonna and child by Corr- 
eggio. The Carlo Dolce's Mater Dolorosa, of which there 
is an engraving in the parlor, we saw, I think, in the Pitti 
Palace. Afterwards we went to the house where Dante used 
to live. It is unoccupied and the windows broken in so we 
did not think it worth while to enter, and went to the house 
of Michael Angelo, which is a palace, as he was noble. There 
we saw quantities of sketches in all stages of completion. 
They show his furniture and portraits of his family and the 
little cabinet where he used to write. 

We then drove to the Palazzo Vecchio, where in the open 
square is a fine fountain called the Fountain of Neptune, and 
in the portico along side of it are some magnificent statues, 
Michael Angelo's David, Perseus, with the Medusa's Head, 
and the Rape of the Sabines, and after that to the Museum 
where there is a good collection of bronzes and ancient armor 
and weapons. The only thing worth remembering is, I be- 
lieve, a fine bronze of Mercury represented in motion. I take 
more interest in the churches than anything else and they 
are remarkably fine here. 

In the Church of Santa Croce are buried almost all the 

47 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Florentines of distinction. Here are the tombs of Michael 
Angelo and Dante, Machiavelli, Galileo, Michele, Nobili, Lami, 
and Bruni. This church is alluded to by Byron in the 4th canto 
of Childe Harold. It is very large and gloomy, as most Catholic 
churches are, and they were conducting Vesper service while we 
were looking at the tombs. The combined effect of the music 
and associations connected with the place I shall never forget. 




"THE NOON HOUR," FLORENCE. A CONTRAST 

In the church of San Lorenzo in front of the high altar is 
the testimonial presented to Cosmo di Medici, with the 
words "Pater Patriae." In one of the side chapels is the tomb 
of Lorenzo di Medici executed by Michael Angelo. The finest 
part of the church is the Medicean chapel, built in circular 
form with a magnificent dome and lighted only by a few win- 
dows way up in the dome. In this are the tombs of the rest 
of the Medici family. The walls are one solid mass of the 
most elegant mosaic in costly marbles you can imagine, even 

precious stones are used in the ornamentation. 

48 



ITALY 

But of all things the Duomo or great cathedral pleases me 
most. The exterior, which is 500 ft. long, is covered with blocks 
of black and white marbles arranged in patterns, and in the in- 
terior, which is quite plain, the light is always like subdued 
moonlight, and the echoes of the organ tones are wonderful. 
We ascended to the dome, and from the balcony, which is built 
just at the foot of the dome, looking down, the men and women 
below look like flies crawling on the pavement, and the feet 
of figures in the fresco of the dome are longer than a man's 
cane, while from below they look perfectly minute. The 




PONTE VECCHIO, FLORENCE 
■ Built in 1345 



Campanile or bell tower is built separate from the church and 
is square, built of marbles of all colors and blocks of all sizes 
arranged in the most elaborate patterns. The Baptistery in 
which all the children are baptized has the celebrated bronze 
doors by Ghiberti which Michael Angelo said were worthy 
to be the gates of Paradise, but I couldn't see it. 

I am so glad Jimmy wants to take lessons on the organ, 
do let him take of Mr. Anton, and tell him I want him to take 
pains with him and be strict with him. 

We leave to-morrow morning for Venice and shall be in 
Milan Saturday night. With much love. 

Yours aff'ly, M. D. R. 

4 49 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Venice, Jan. 12th, 1870. 

Hotel Victoria. 
Dear Aunt Mary, 

Here we are in Venice, and all of us perfectly carried away 
with it, and Father the most of us all. We travelled all day 
yesterday through the most beautiful country imaginable, 
among mountains with their tops covered with snow, and by 
little villages in the hollows between them and in sight of all 
sorts of pretty and romantic bridges spanning the mountain 
torrents, and towards evening the railroad swept out into the 
open sea and we were in Venice before we knew it. We had 
a moonlight ride in a gondola to the hotel and for real romance 
found it the only thing that has not disappointed us at first 
sight. 

Venice, Jan. 13th, 1870. 

We have concluded to go away to-morrow morning and 
as I don't wish to have anything on my mind, I will give you 
an account of it and send this off from Venice so it may go 
by the way of Germany. 

We spent our first morning in looking at the surround- 
ings of St. Mark's square, which can be reached from the hotel 
by a very narrow and crowded street. This brings us out 
facing St. Mark's church, which is decidedly the most in- 
teresting church we have seen in point of architecture, being 
built in the Moslem style with domes and minarets. The 
front is supported by pillars brought from the church of Santa 
Sofia in Constantinople, and over the doors are the gilt bronze 
horses of St. Mark. The inside is more peculiar than the 
outside, if that be possible. The roof is one mass of mosaic 
on gilt ground and the floor is mosaic and very elaborate, the 
parapet is formed entirely of the fronts of tombs from Con- 
stantinople and four of the pillars of the high altar were 
brought from Solomon's Temple, though I find the latter 
rather hard to believe. 

They also show some very rich columns carved in alto 
relievo the whole length, and in the Baptistery an elegant 

50 



ITALY 

font from Constantinople of bronze carved instead of moulded. 
In this church is the pulpit from which the Doges preached 
at the time of the crusades — you know they all started from 
here and were fitted out here. In front of the church are 
three red masts, standards to commemorate the three great 
conquests made by Venice. The open square of St. Mark's 
is about 600 feet long and paved with large blocks of stone. 
It is very imposing, surrounded on all sides with magnificent 
palaces, on one side the ancient palace of the Doges and on 
the other the royal palace of Victor Emmanuel. The open side 
of the square is on the water and is the grand or State land- 
ing, and there stand two immense pillars of granite, one sur- 
mounted with the Venetian lion and the other with Theodore, 
the first patron saint of the city. 

It was between these two columns criminals were formerly 
executed. When Mariano Faliero landed at Venice in the dark 
he came by mistake between these columns, a fact held to be 
ominous by the people, and in a year he was executed. I for- 
got to say that in the baptistery of the church the altar was 
formed from a large rock, from the summit of Mt. Tabor, 
where the Transfiguration took place. 

The Doges' Palace is full of historic interest. Part of it is 
now used as a public library and is ornamented with very 
fine paintings. In it are the Halls and Antechambers of the 
celebrated Councils of Three, Forty and Ten, who ruled the Re- 
public with the Doge, and also the secret passages leading from 
the Bridge of Sighs to these Halls, for the use of the prisoners. 
Father seated himself in the Doge's seat and felt very important. 

The garret was formerly used as a prison in the summer 
season, as a more severe punishment on account of the heat. 
Here Silvio Pellico and Casanova were imprisoned and the 
former used to feed the doves out of his prison window. Of 
course the Bridge of Sighs interested us more than anything 
else. It connects the Doges' Palace with the large prison 
separated from it by a small canal. The most gloomy and 
dreadful prisons are on the Palace side of the bridge and were 

51 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

called the Political prisons. It is said that no one could sur- 
vive more than eight days in them. It was here Mariano 
Faliero and the two Foscari were imprisoned and were exe- 
cuted at the entrance of the bridge in a narrow dark passage- 
way. All criminals were brought over the Bridge of Sighs 
to hear their sentence and executed between the two columns 
in the Piazza. 








A fi 



i ifs dp <$ *£ «fk ^ * 

IIAii 




THE CAMPANILE AND-THE PALACE OF THE DOGES, VENICE 

There is a magnificent entrance to the Palace called the 
Giants' Staircase on account of the colossal figures of Mars 
and Neptune at the top. At the head of this stair-case the 
Doges were crowned and in the middle half-way down 
Mariano Faliero was executed, having been tortured for 
two days before. The clock tower of the church is a great 

52 



ITALY 

curiosity, on the high tower are two bronze men standing, 
one on each side of a bell, and these men strike the hours with 
huge hammers. As the clock strikes two every day all the 
pigeons in Venice come to one window in the square to be fed, 
an old lady having left a bequest to that effect. You cannot 
imagine what a curious sight it is to see those birds flying 
from all points as the clock strikes and many come a few 
minutes beforehand and seat themselves around the window. 
We have fed them for two days with corn and they come 
around us by the hundred and will even light on your hand, 
they are so tame. 

We have been into quite a number of churches, one of 
them remarkable for being the burial place of most of the 
Doges, but have seen none that pleased us so much as that 
containing Titian and Canova, Santa Maria dei Frari. That 
of the former is very beautiful in itself, but is so completely 
eclipsed by the tomb of Canova that one scarcely cares to look 
at it. Anything to equal that in the effect it has upon one, 
I never saw. It represents a pyramidal tomb with half open 
doors and flight of steps on which at one side Genius habited 
as an angel is presented dying, and on the other a procession 
of figures all life size are ascending from the side, the fore- 
most of which, a beautiful figure completely veiled, carries an 
urn in which is Canova's heart. 

There is also in this church a very remarkable monument 
to one of the Doges, colossal Moors in black marble and 
clothed in white, holding up a balcony on which he sits. 

We went to-day to the Arsenal but were not permitted 
to enter as the workmen had mutinied but we were quite satis- 
fied to look at the outside. On each side of the gate is a co- 
lossal lion in Greek marble, brought from Athens, and dating 
back to before Christ. It seems when the 1st Napoleon came 
to Venice he broke the heads of all the lions in Venice so that 
they are all to be seen now with patched heads. 

Yesterday we went to the Rialto, the famous bridge over 
the grand canal, consisting of one arch and having three pas- 

53 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

sage-ways — near this we found Shylock's money shop, and 
found them still at the same old trade. Father went in and 
asked them if they had any "monish" to lend. On the grand 
canal are many fine palaces, belonging to the old Venetian no- 
bility, there also is the house of Desdemona, and in another part 
of the city that of the Moor, Othello, ornamented with a black 
statue of himself. Nearby was the house of Paul Veronese 
and in another part of the city we were shown where Titian 
lived. Canova the great sculptor lived here, and in one of 
the private palaces here are two fine statues of his "Ajax" and 
"Hector." We have seen some fine works of art, but I am 
so tired of looking at pictures that I find it very difficult to 
remember them. Paul Veronese's "Rape of Europa" and the 
Assumption of the Virgin, and some historical pictures of 
value are the best worth remembering. In the Scuola St. Roch 
are very fine frescoes and wood carvings and parapets for the 
altar, one mass of gold and precious stones, used on Feast Days. 

We have just returned from a moonlight walk in the 
square, and the Rialto. It is a sight I shall never forget. As 
we were standing near the column of the Lion of St. Mark, a 
man issued out dressed in an immense white mask with long 
flowing hair and saluted us. We were quite a little frightened 
at first, but he did not molest us. 

We shall be in Milan to-morrow night and I am very glad, 
being about worn out with travelling, for between driving 
about all day doing the hardest kind of work for there is no 
harder work than sight seeing, and writing all night there is not 
much left of me. Emma is going to stay with me in Milan, 
where I shall remain until ready to travel next summer. Father 
is beginning to be anxious to get home, and I think we shall 
all be glad to rest. We have got Kate Flinn a rosary blessed 
by the Pope, and I had one given to me, a present from the 
Bishop of Toronto, Canada, who came over with us. My 
love to all inquiring. Tell the children to write. 

With much love, 

Yr. aff. niece M. D. R. 

54 



ITALY 

No. 7. P* Via Pasquirolo, 

Milan, Jan. 18th, 1870. 
Dear Aunt Mary, 

Father has left us and here we are sitting in our parlour 
as forlorn as possible. I felt dreadfully to have father go. 
We moved into our apartments yesterday and he stayed with 
us until his dinner, then went and returned for us to accom- 
pany him to the railway station. I never felt so badly in my 
life as when I saw the last of him and I think he felt very 
badly also. He seemed to dread the journey very much. 
His general health seems very good, but he suffers very much 
with the cold, as indeed all of us do. He can outwalk any of 
us and has slept well until lately, and now he wakes up early 
in the morning. He will be in Paris to-morrow morning if 
he is not delayed, and we shall hear from him in a day or two. 

We spent the time while he was here in seeing the places 
of interest. Sunday afternoon we went to the Cathedral and 
to the top of it, and from there had a splendid view of the 
Mountains with their tops covered with snow. This Cathe- 
dral is a wonderful structure. It is all built of white marble 
and the outside is a mass of the most delicate and ethereal 
pinnacles and the inside of Gothic arches. There are 
accommodations for ever so many thousand statues, but 
as there is such a difference of opinion in regard to the number, 
I will not attempt to tell how many! Under the altar is 
a subterranean chapel dedicated to St. Charles the first, Arch- 
bishop of Milan. He is exhibited in very elegant clothes in 
a silver coffin, through a rock-crystal cover. 

In the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie we saw the 
celebrated painting of Leonardo da Vinci, the Last Supper, 
which you have seen in many engravings. 

Now I will tell you about our apartments. We went 
to work the first thing to find the American Consul and call 
on him. He told us it would be of no use to go about in 
search of apartments, that he would do it for us, &c, and the 
next day he came for us to go look at some. We were well 

55 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

pleased and he said he knew it was the best we could do. 
They consist of quite a large room with two windows, 
grand piano and quite handsome furniture, — that is our 
parlor, and a small bedroom adjoining. 

We have made arrangements to-day about our French and 
Italian lessons and by the time I write again shall be able to 
tell you what sort of person I have got for a singing teacher. 
I suppose you all think that as we are in sunny Italy we ought 
to be very warm. Far from it! I never suffered so in all my 
life with the cold. I spend most of my time sitting, bellows 
in hand, trying to keep the fire from going out altogether. 
The only people in the house are three English girls and an 
Italian Professor of literature. We have seen them only at 
dinner and such a dinner! Macaroni, chestnuts and onions! 

We took our coffee in bed this morning and had breakfast 
at half past eleven. Then we went out and got some few neces- 
saries. I have been reading over all your letters to cheer me 
up. I feel so dreadfully now father is gone. It is awfully 
lonesome for us two, alone among strangers. I wish you 
would write very often — you don't know how welcome your 
letters are. I like to get just the kind of letter you write tell- 
ing all the home news. I have sent to Paris for my gray poplin 
and black and white silk, and expect to wear out some of my old 
clothes while I am here. I shall not get anything new unless 
perhaps a new black silk suit when I leave here next summer. 

We understand they keep the carnival here more than 
in Rome. I suppose we shall go to one of the Masked Balls 
in "La Scala" before it is over. I forgot to say that Father 
took us one night to the Opera to see "Piero di Medici." We 
had a box and invited the Consul and he came. I would 
give a good deal 10-night if I could toast my feet over a reg- 
ister. My hands are so stiff now that I can hardly write and 
I don't see but what we are really going to suffer with the 
cold until warm weather comes. Do write often and tell Cliff 
and Warren to write also. 

With love to all inquiring friends, 

Your aff. niece, M. D. R. 

56 



ITALY 

Milan, Jan. 30th, 1870. 
Dear Mother, 

I am not feeling very well to-day, but felt that I ought 
not to let the day pass without writing a letter home. I think 
I have got the ague, this climate is very much like ours, and 
they have intermittent fever here as well as all through Italy, 
but I hope to get over it soon. We begin to feel quite at home 
in our rooms now, and long for warm weather to come. We 
have had several calls, a Mrs. Heisch and her daughter — very 
nice English people who boarded at the hotel where we stopped 
when we first came, and the minister who preaches at the 
English Chapel, where we go every Sunday and pray for Vic- 
tor Emmanuel and the Queen .of England. He has gone away 
for his health and the minister who has supplied his place has 
also called. The American Consul, Mr. Clarke from Boston, 
comes to see us nearly every other day, and to-day he intro- 
duced the English Consul to us, and he will also call. 

We are now settled at our lessons, but no matter how dili- 
gent we may be, four months is too short a time to learn very 
much. We take lessons in French and Italian of a lady, and 
Emma takes lessons in instrumental music of Luca Fumigalli, 
who is a composer and has played at the best concerts in Lon- 
don. I take singing of Maestro Corsi who has been one of 
the great artists, such as Garcia and Ronconi have been. We 
went the other night with Mr. Clarke to see the Opera of 
"Rigoletto" in which Corsi is playing for the first time in fifteen 
years for he is quite an old man and has not had any voice 
for a long time. His acting is very celebrated and certainly 
is the finest I ever saw. We got quite frightened at one time, 
the people became so excited when there was a particularly 
fine part, crying "Corsi" and "Bravo," and called him out 
before the curtain four times before they became quiet. 

I am taking three lessons a week now and he will not let 
me practice more than two hours a day, says my voice is 
soprano and sweet and flexible. I went to hear a lesson at 
Lamperti's who has trained a great many for the stage, and was 

57 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

never so disgusted in all my life. His lessons are from twelve 
to four. In the meantime all the scholars come in and he takes 
them in turn. He sits down on the sofa and takes hold of the 
pupils hand and with a stick which he holds in the other hand 
he marks the time and how he wants the tones shaded by pass- 
ing the stick over the pupil's arm. He in the mean time smokes 
and laughs and talks with all the people in the room and all the 
artists in the city walk in and out of the room smoking also, and 
the smoke and confusion cannot be imagined. All sorts of 
characters go there, most all of them are training for the stage. 

This is one of the places where all the engagements, 
musical, are made. I had a letter from Father this morning 
saying that he had concluded to wait a week longer in London 
for the sake of going with Mr. Perry and Cyrus W. Field, 
as they wanted him to. I am glad Father has met friends. 
He needs a great deal of society and is very dependent on 
it, — he was dreadfully homesick. Vienna is the place to 
buy all sorts of things in Russia leather. Silks and velvets 
and laces and underclothing are the things that it pays to 
buy. I shall not be in Paris until next September at least, 
so you will have plenty of time to think over what you want 
me to get by that time. 

I shall be dreadfully discouraged if I get the ague fastened 
on me again. It takes all the ambition out of one. I shall 
go out to-morrow and hunt some quinine. Mr. Clarke says 
it is well to take it often in this climate. I would give a good 
deal if I could look in on you all to-night. I do miss father 
so. I think you had better decide to come over next summer 
with Mr. Greeley, and travel all summer, and we'll go back 
in the fall together. Do write often, just think how you would 
feel if you were off here alone. Some of you can certainly 
write once a week. My letters are to all. My time is so 
occupied I can't write oftener than once a week. 

Your aff. daughter, 

M. D. R. 

58 






ITALY 

No. 7 Via Pasqiiirolo, 

Milan, Feb. oth, 1870. 
Dear Aunt Mary, 

It is nearly a month now since I have heard a word from 
home and I can't imagine what you are all thinking of. It 
is three weeks since Father left us to go to London and since 
then I have not heard a single word from any of you. Father 
has written me every few days, and I'm thankful to say so, 
or I don't know what would have become of us. Last Satur- 
day, the day I knew Father was to sail from Liverpool, I 
thought I would die of homesickness, and sat down and cried 
for two or three hours. 

You at home cannot imagine how we are situated here. 
We don't know but two or three people here, and of course 
being busy can't see much of them. A Mrs. Bonney and 
children from Boston were here to-day and a Mrs. Heisch and 
daughter from England are the only acquaintances we have. 
There is not a large foreign population as in the German cities 
and Florence, Rome and Naples, and one has no choice between 
no society at all and the Italian, which is very corrupt and is 
of two kinds, that which includes the highest rank of nobility, 
who don't admit foreigners, and the other a combination of 
musicians, artists and critics, and some few counts and count- 
esses, which is as corrupt as any society well can be. I don't 
know what we would do if Mr. Clarke didn't take such an in- 
terest in us, and he is an old stick and is gone now to Vienna 
to stay three weeks. And in the house the two young ladies 
of whom I have spoken manifest no desire to be at all friendly 
with us. They go with the artist set and are studying for 
the stage, and whether they are afraid we shall get into their 
set or not, I don't know, but as they are infidels I don't think 
the loss of their acquaintance will do us any harm. 

The truth of the matter is that between music, French and 
Italian I have to work too hard and don't have enough relaxa- 
tion. Every time we go out we are spoken to by men, some of 
them old grey-headed ones too. The lady of the house don't 

59 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

speak anything but Italian and the man speaks only a little of 
the worst French you ever heard. You would be much amused 
if you could see us take some tea of an evening with the land- 
lady. We talk in French, Italian and pantomime, and have 
a great time understanding each other, and sometimes we talk 
for an hour or two, so you can imagine we get along somehow. 

The Court Ball takes place in two or three weeks where 
King Victor Emmanuel will be present. I suppose we could go 
if we had our names put down a long time before, but one has 
to go in Court dress and I should have to get a new one and 
as there is not the least probability that anyone would take 
any notice of us, it would hardly pay. We shall probably 
go to one of the Masked Balls during the Carnival. The King 
will come here for that they say, as this is the only place where 
they keep the three days succeeding Ash Wednesday. In 
fact there is more gaiety here than in any other city in Europe 
at that time. During those days they pelt everbody who 
appears on the Corso with white lime. 

I wouldn't say much about my studying music here, for 
although I shall do my very best to acquire as much as possible, 
still four months is a very short time to accomplish anything 
in, and I found that losing my practice while travelling made 
a great difference, and we shall probably be travelling six 
months after leaving here and shall consequently lose a great 
deal for want of practice. We have been so busy we have not 
really seen any of the sights of Milan. We are going some 
day soon to see the King's Palace, and when the warm weather 
comes shall go to the Gardens, and old Sforza Palace or Tri- 
umphal Arch erected by the 1st Napoleon. 

The place where they drive and walk here is called the 
Bastione, and is a magnificent wide street, planted with trees 
on both sides of great height, and has a low stone wall the 
whole length, also on both sides, and is several miles long. It 
is the most delightful place to walk you ever saw. 

I had a letter from Father this morning saying that Mr. 

Perry had arrived in Liverpool, and they were to go on board in 

60 



ITALY 

three hours. I feel dreadfully to have him go as long as he was 
on the same continent. I would give a good deal if you could 
look in on us and see what we are doing. 

We take turns in practising and the only recreation we have 
is sometimes to go out walking together. We have been getting 
up earlier in the morning lately to gain more time. The people 
here generally take their coffee and bread and butter in bed at 
half past eight and then get up and dress. I don't believe 
the servant girl gets up before half past seven o'clock, it is the 
custom here, and at 12 o'clock we have another breakfast 
of meat or omelette and bread and butter and wine, and at 
half past five dinner. 

I never saw such a place for dwarfs and singing. All the 
people down to the infants in arms sing in the streets at night 
and I don't exaggerate when I say that one person out of every 
five is a dwarf. One spoke to us and winked at us on the 
street the other day and we were so indignant. The children 
would think our street was an alley if they should happen to 
get into it — it is not a bit wider than, if it is as wide as, the 
alley behind our house, and is built four or five stories high 
on each side, so that the sun never comes in more than a half 
hour during the day. 

They say there will surely be an uprising in Paris, on 
account of their acquitting Pierre Bonaparte, the people are 
so indignant.* 

In my letter this morning Father writes "the next time I 
travel I shall take your Ma with me," and I hope he'll con- 
clude to come over next summer with her and we'll all go home 
together. Don't forget to get Father to tell you about the 
verse in scripture that he thought would be rather a hard 
sentence on the people of this country. Emma wants him 
to tell over the adventures to her father and mother. I do 
long for some oysters so! I haven't seen one here. 

With love to all, 

Your loving niece, M. D. R. 

*Ir July, 1870, the Franco-Prussian War began! Doubtless the result of universal 
political unrest such as again brought on the War in 1914. 

61 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Milan, Feb. ioth, 1870. 
Dear Father, 

I received yesterday your letter from Liverpool written 
just before you sailed, and thought as I was just sending off 
a letter to Aunt Mary would write you a few lines which you 
will probably get in New York. I suppose you are now in 
the middle of the ocean. I don't exactly envy you but I don't 
doubt you are in pleasanter company than I am, and hope 
you will have a safe journey. 

The weather continues very cold here, and although now 
that we have got a stove we manage to keep warm, we 
really suffer when we are taking our meals. An American lady 
by the name of Bonney, who was introduced to us by Mr. 
Clarke, called yesterday and we are going with her some day to 
see the king's palace, which is said to be a remarkably handsome 
one. You didn't tell me anything about Westminster Abbey. 
Is it like anything else we have seen? Do write from New 
York and tell me all the people you see and all the news. 

I am drinking beer now in hopes to get some flesh on my 
bones, and like it much better than wine, for I don't derive 
much satisfaction from the food, as to nourishment. Mr. 
Clarke has gone away to Vienna for three weeks, and we are 
more lonesome than ever — said perhaps he would write us 
once. You ought to see my hands, they look as if I had done 
kitchen work, for the last week, and as it is the fashion among 
all classes to have chilblains I expect to see mine all swollen 
up with them some morning when I awake. I do hope you 
and mother will come over next summer for me. If mother 
can make up her mind to cross the sea, it will do her good, and 
above all things do take time to write me once a week and 
oftener if you can. The time seems so long between. So 
with love to all inquiring friends, good-bye my darling Father, 

M. D. R. 



62 



ITALY 

Milan, Feb. 20th, 1870. 
Dear Aunt Alvira, 

I have just a half hour in which to write you a few words, 
having to take a music lesson and after that a French lesson 
and after that get ready to go to the Opera. 

We suffer dreadfully with homesickness here, being so 
alone. Father is probably in America now — left here five 
weeks ago. Milan is a beautiful city. The public gardens and 
promenade are magnificent. The carnival commences very 
soon and we are going to one of the Masked Balls at La Scala, 
the great Opera house. Also think of going to the Court Ball. 
The King Victor Emmanuel gives this year, one ball at Turin, 
one here and one in Florence, at the different Palaces. We shall 
go if the Consul gets back from Vienna in time to take us. 

Will write you all about it when it is all over. We find 
the climate very debilitating and are very weak from it. So 
much study keeps us confined to the house and we don't get 
exercise enough, which is very necessary here, they say. 
While we were travelling we were on our feet all day long 
and although we got tired we slept well and had good appetites. 
With love to all the family, 

Yr. aff. niece, M. D. R. 

Milan, Feb. 28th, 1870. 
Dear Aunt Mary, 

It is now six weeks or more since I have heard a word 
from St. Louis! All the time that we were travelling I used 
to sit up at night after a hard day's work and deprived my- 
self of sleep that I might keep you informed as to our where- 
abouts, and since we have settled here I have written regularly 
once a week, but I have made up my mind not to do it any 
more and shall not write until I have had some letters from 
home, so you may have to wait some months before you hear 
anything from me. 

Father must be in New York by this time, as he left here 
five weeks ago. If he hadn't taken pity on me and written 
as often as he did I don't know what I should have done. 

63 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

The climate proves very debilitating for us. I never felt 
so weak in my life. When we first came we set ourselves to 
work too hard and did not take enough exercise, and then the 
food is not so strengthening as ours, their meat being cooked 
into perfect strings. They say it is necessary here to take a 
great deal of exercise to keep well and we can't find time to 
do it and study much. 

My singing teacher won't let me practise over two hours a 
day, thinks it would tire me too much and weaken my voice. 
The weather is gradually softening — to-day being quite warm. 
This afternoon we went to walk in the Public Gardens, and 
it was quite like spring. I wish you could see them. At the 
end of the principal street, the Corso Venizia, at the left is 
a beautiful Park and running along it at right angles with 
the Corso and at a much higher elevation is the Bastione or 
Rampart, a very long street and very wide, and with wide 
side walks with four rows of tall trees running the whole 
length, one on each side of each pavement. Every afternoon 
in pleasant weather and on Sundays especially (Sunday being 
the great day for amusement here) all the elite of Milan drive 
and walk in this place, and it is really a fine sight. 

We are invited to some private theatricals by the English 
Consul this week — shall enjoy them much. There will be 
three masked Balls at "La Scala" and we expect to go to one 
of them in mask, but don't know how we shall go exactly and 
in three weeks we are going. I expect to go to the Court 
Ball at the Royal Palace. Victor Emmanuel gives three balls 
a year, one at Turin, one here and one at Florence. We 
may go with Mr. Clarke, but are not certain. I don't want 
to get a new dress if I can help it. I can't wear my blue 
silk because no one can go without a train. We shan't be 
able to talk with any one so don't anticipate much pleas- 
ure. Last evening our French and Italian teacher came to 
call on us with her brother, who can't speak a word of English, 
and so we had to maintain a conversation in French, which 
is a very trying affair. However, I am determined to learn 
to speak well, even if it does prove mortifying sometimes. 

6 4 



ITALY 

I have indulged in a pair of jet earrings and put them on 

with a gold wire which passes round behind the ear and looks 

exactly as if the ear were bored. I find Russia leather work 

is as cheap here as in Vienna and think I shall get some 

before we leave. 

In great haste, 

Yr. aff. niece, M. D. R. 

You must talk over with Father and ascertain if I can get 
some bronzes in Munich. It seems too bad to come home 
without something nice for the house. 

Milan, March 9th, 1870. 
Dear Father, 

I received two or three days ago your very short letter 
from New York, telling me that you had arrived and nothing 
more. Why couldn't you have written me a good long letter 
telling me all about your passage and about getting through 
the custom house? Lolly writes an amazingly good letter for 
her age. It is lovely weather and warm sun so we are about 
done with a fire. 

I want to tell you all about the Carnival and the Balls, but 
I hardly know where to commence. A week ago to-night was 
the first mask ball in the Scala. We went with Mr. Menni in 
black dominoes trimmed with blue, and blue masks and met the 
Heischs there. All the seats were removed from the Parterre 
and a flight of steps led up to the stage. The heat and crowd 
were something terrible and all the boxes were filled with 
people in full dress with the most elegant jewels and diamond 
coronets. There were people in every sort of costume that one 
could imagine. Very soon after our arrival there was a tourna- 
ment and the men had feathers nearly a yard long sticking up 
from the tops of their hats and were supposed to be mounted 
on horses and they had a drill of soldiers in linen jackets repre- 
senting the Austrians whom the Milanese hate cordially. 

There were women with next to no dresses at all on and we 
were very much astonished while standing near a box to see 
a man and girl come along and the man leaped up into the box 

5 65 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and pulled the girl up after him. In short we saw a good many 
sights that we never saw before and shall come from Europe 
somewhat wiser on some points than before we came. When 
we came away they were eating suppers in all the boxes — it 
was as beautiful a sight as I shall ever see. We did not go 
until one o'clock and returned at four. 

All day Thursday, Friday and Saturday the streets were 
thronged with people celebrating the Carnival. The Grand 
Processions take place on the Corso and are something like 
ours, that is there are all the different journals, etc. represented. 
We were much amused to see an immense pair of bellows walk- 
ing along without any visible support, and all the newspapers 
were dressed as immense carrots with the roots sticking up in 
the air. One wagon came along fixed as a pudding with cakes 
round the edge of the platter. But the best of all was a com- 
pany of men in a wagon who represented the silk manufacture. 
The wagon was led by six horses, each one mounted by a man 
completely hidden by a cocoon, and the wagon itself was 
covered with representations of worms in the different stages, 
and all the men were dressed as worms, white with black stripes. 

While everybody and anybody threw what they call con- 
fetti, which are bonbons done up in fancy papers and conandoli, 
a species of lime, which they carry round in the carriages by 
the bushel, each one being armed with a wooden ladle with 
which they scatter the lime over everyone within reach. 
Besides the companies there were private and public carriages 
filled with people in fancy costumes, masked, who threw con- 
fetti and "conandoli" as fast as they could. Sunday afternoon 
there was a parade of all the different kinds of officers on horse- 
back, on the Bastione, which was very interesting. Some of 
them had on scarlet coats and short clothes and powdered wigs. 

On Saturday night we went to the Court Ball at the King's 
Palace with Mr. Clarke. We both looked well and didn't feel 
at all ashamed of ourselves beside the nobility with all their 
jewels. The whole Piazza in front of the Palace, which is that 
large building to the right of the Cathedral as you stand facing 

66 



ITALY 

it, was as light as day, with a thousand gas lights erected for 
the occasion, and filled with a dense crowd of people through 
which we had to drive to get inside of the Palace. Arrived at 
the foot of the staircase which was carpeted down to the car- 
riages, we found a line of soldiers on each side, and when we 
reached the antechambers, which had also a line of soldiers 
all the way around it, we had to take off our things there, 
there being no private dressing room. We then walked through 
five or six rooms before coming to the grand salon where the 
dancing was going on. This was crowded and heated to an 
extent that was almost unendurable, and the gallery which 
goes all around was also crowded with people who get 
tickets to come in. The whole ceiling seemed one mass of 
light on account of the number of chandeliers all of crystal 
and candles. They illumine here as in France only with 
candles because they think they give a more becoming light. 
The room was also surrounded with two rows of cushioned 
stools for the ladies and the place for dancing was not large. 

The King Victor Emmanuel stood at one end of the room 
with the Mayor and Prince Amadeo, the second son, and a few 
ladies were seated near him of the highest nobility with very 
elegant lace and diamonds but as ugly as sin. I thought the 
King very ugly and fierce looking, looked as if he was bored to 
death standing in one corner with his arms folded. He left the 
ball early and went away on the cars that night. He is not 
liked at all here, they think he wants to take away everything 
of importance from Milan. They say he would move the 
Cathedral to Turin if he could. . 

We danced several times at the ball with an Italian and 
were very much noticed, all the old women were looking at us 
through their glasses. There were some very fine people 
there I believe but can't remember their names, but they 
were not well dressed at all, though they had elegant laces 
and jewels. There was one lady there with 250 thousand 
dollars' worth of diamonds on, but they did not make her look 
any better. We came away from the Ball at half past twelve 
on account of its being Sunday morning. 

67 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Last night we went to a little company at the Hotel 
Grande Bretagne given by Mrs. Heisch, and had a very nice 
time. They expect to leave here the last of next week for the 
Lakes, Como and Maggiore, and will go soon to England. We 
have an appointment to walk with Mr. Clarke, for everybody 
says we must not walk alone and it is very disagreeable, you 
can have no idea of the wickedness and depravity of Italian 
men until you have lived a while in an Italian city — it is 
terrible. I wouldn't trust some girls here three days. 

The weather is becoming much warmer already and the 
gardens are quite green. I wish you could have seen more of 
Milan than you did. I hope you will keep me posted as to 
your intentions in regard to coming over here next summer. 
I hope and pray you will, with mother. 

My black silk dress is the meanest thing I ever bought, it 
is worn out all over. I shall have to get something before 
I leave here. 

I said I shouldn't write home again for two months, but I 
find I can't stand it to go without any communication. I find 
that the gloves here in Milan are much nicer than those we sent 
from Naples. You can get five button gloves for a dollar and 
shorter ones less, and they are much nicer kid than the others. 
When I leave I think I shall buy some to carry with me. 

With much love to all, 

Your aff. daughter, M. D. R. 

Milan, March 15th, 1870. 
Not having gotten this letter off yet I thought I would 
open it to say a few words. Yesterday was the King's birthday 
and we went to hear the Te Deum performed in the Cathedral. 
The Prefect and all the high civic officers were there in full 
dress but the church was so large that the music made almost 
no impression at all. The square in front was filled with 
soldiers and the band played splendidly all the time the cere- 
mony was going on inside. When we came out we found the 
Reeps, those people who were on the steamer from Genoa to 

68 



ITALY 

Naples, you remember, and who were at the hotel at Naples 
with us and we are going to see them to-night at Hotel 
de Milan on the Via del Giardino. 

We are having a little more cold weather for a few days but it 
is very clear and bracing. I am almost destitute in the matter of 
outside garments having nothing to put on between a cloak lined 
with fur and a lace shawl, and my hat is perfectly gone up. No 
one can know what sort of a feeling it is until they come into a 
foreign country entirely alone. Good bye and don't forget 
to write soon. 

Milan, March 17th, 1870. 
Dear Grandmother, 

I am so homesick to-day I don't know what to do with 
myself, never knew before what a home-baby I could be. But 
you can form no idea of what it is to be so very far away from 
home and friends and to be among foreigners and people who 
have no ideas whatever in common with you and never to hear 
your own language spoken — it is terrible. We have had de- 
lightful weather here until lately and now it is quite cold again, 
but it cannot last long for the trees are all ready to leaf out 
and before long everything will be green. The public gardens 
here are very beautiful and almost every day we go to take a 
walk there and there is a very beautiful street which runs all 
around the city at a higher level and is planted with four rows 
of trees, the finest place to ride and walk in that I ever saw. 
At first we did not walk much because we were so anxious to 
study, but we found our health began to suffer and since have 
taken a long walk almost every day. 

I wrote all about the Carnival and the two Balls we attended 
in a long letter home which I suppose they will send you. Last 
Monday we went in the morning to hear theTeDeum performed 
in honor of the King's birthday and in the evening Mr. Clarke 
came and took us to the large Cafe in the Galleria, which was 
illuminated for the occasion. The Galleria is a very large struct 
ture built in the shape of a cross and is like a covered street 
and lined with elegant buildings three and four stories high. 

69 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

The roof is all in glass and at the intersection is a large dome 
and on grand occasions this dome is illuminated. There are 
several very fine cafes in this Galleria where they have free con- 
certs. You would undoubtedly think them very strange places. 
At night they are filled to overflowing with crowds of citizens 
and officers seated at little round tables and all of them smok- 
ing, for the men smoke everywhere. And in the midst of all 
this noise and smoke we go and take some coffee or ices, but 
never alone, always with Mr. Menni or Mr. Clarke. 

We find things very cheap here for a nice pair of fine kid 
boots with buttons I have to pay only three dollars and a half. 
At home I would have to pay just twice as much. You can 
get beautiful gloves here with five buttons for 3 francs and 
a half and the 2 buttons cheaper. They are much better than 
the Naples gloves that I sent home. 

I think if you had to sit down one day to macaroni soup, 
then two different kinds of meat cooked with garlic and onions 
without a single vegetable, and chestnuts for dessert, you would 
think you were well off at present in the way of things 
to eat. That was what we found when we first came and 
the change affected our health so much that we had to tell them 
we must have beefsteak rare and some potatoes and lately we 
have had cauliflower and by dint of telling them how to cook 
things we get along better now, but we have had but one thing 
for dessert since we came. As regular as night comes whipped 
cream and chestnuts. We are so tired of it. Yesterday I 
received a few lines from Father written with pencil to say he 
had arrived at home. 

With much love, 

Your aff. granddaughter, 

M. D. R. 

Milan, March 27th, 1870. 
Dear Aunt Mary: 

Last Monday I received yours and father's letters. I had 

not heard from any of you for some time and was very glad 

70 



ITALY 

to get them. I have not much news to tell you, everything 
goes on in the same old humdrum way. I get rather discour- 
aged sometimes in thinking that I am not accomplishing very 
much, although I do as much as I can, and when I think how 
short a time I can spend here I can't expect to accomplish 
very much. 

The other day we went with Mr. Clarke to a service held 
in the church of the grand Hospital in commemoration of 
the burial of those who were killed during what is called the 
"five days of Milan" in 1848. We couldn't have gotten in 
except for Mr. Clarke as the church is very small and there 
were hundreds waiting outside. The church was round and 
built with a dome and from the centre of this dome to walls on 
all sides was arranged black drapery with silver stars and 
wide silver border and red, white and green lamps were sus- 
pended from the centre of the dome. There was one part of 
the service very beautiful. That was when the band which 
was stationed behind the high altar played a very sweet and 
mournful air while the priest elevated the Host. 

The other day we had a delightful walk in the country — 
went out by the Porta Vittoria. Father can tell you that the 
country round Milan is nothing but a series of fields hedged in 
by ditches filled by running water and planted on both sides 
with trees. On the edges of these we found violets like our 
cultivated violets and buttercups and daisies and wood 
anemones and myrtle, all wild, and all the trunks of the trees 
are covered with ivy. We came home laden with flowers and 
have pressed some for our books. To-morrow afternoon we 
are going with the Heischs out in the country somewhere to 
hear a remarkable echo. 

A few days ago we had a snow storm but it very soon 
ended and disappeared though the mountains are covered 
almost down to their bases. The view of the mountains 
from here is very grand. They say from the top of the 
Cathedral one can see Mont Blanc, so we are going up early 
some morning to take our breakfast there, that being the best 

71 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

time to see the mountains. We went to church this morning 
as usual, and heard a very good sermon from Mr. Garrard. 
A young American artist from Boston, who has been singing 
near Rome this winter, brought us some of Henry Ward 
Beecher's sermons, which we read this evening. At dinner 
to-day we got into quite a warm discussion with the Professor 
in regard to observing the Sabbath. As I was obliged to talk 
all the time in the French language I could not say all I wanted 
to, though when I first came here I should have been aston- 
ished to hear myself talk so fluently. Has father displayed his 
French as yet for your benefit ? We used to have a great deal 
of fun over it. 

They have some very fine books here, beautifully illus- 
trated, at very low prices. I shall buy the "Promessi Sposi" 
and "My Prisons" by Silvio Pellico, whose prison we saw 
in Venice in the Ducal Palace. They have also Dante's 
three works, the Inferno, Purgatorio and Paradiso, illustrated 
by Gustave Dore, but I think I will buy them in London trans- 
lated into English by Longfellow. By the way, we heard that 
Longfellow is coming here very soon. The Italians think 
everything of his poetry and praise very highly his translation 
of Dante. 

I had my pictures taken last week but have not yet seen 
the proofs — as soon as I get them will send them home.* I want 
you to keep me posted all the time in regard to any of the folks 
coming over this summer. I thought I wrote you what I wore 
to the reception in Paris. I wore my long black silk and Roman 
sash and my dress open in the neck. The people were dressed 
in all sorts of ways, some in black silks — some in full dress and 
some in plain short silks and some young ladies in light short 
silks and white swiss overdresses. I remember they had for 
the supper, coffee, tea and chocolate and all kinds of cakes and 
ices in fancy forms. They had a peculiar kind of soft cake 
made with fruit and wine. In Rome I wore my black silk with 
my black lace shawl arranged as an overdress, and scarlet 

*The frontispiece is a reproduction of a miniature painted from one of the photographs. 

72 



ITALY 

sash covered with black lace and open at the neck, and my 
coral and red flowers. 

I expect to get a good deal of wear out of my light blue 
silk this summer. My black silk short dress is all worn out 
and I am quite destitute but dislike so much to have any- 
thing made here; I shall try to get along without. I bought 
Jimmy the other day one of every kind of stamp they use here 
in Milan, and I have asked Mr. Clarke to save all his stamps 
for me and will send them to him. There is a little boy here 
in this family who is afflicted with kleptomania and he is 
getting so bad they talk of sending him off for a sailor. 
Don't forget to write often and I will do the same. 

Your aff. niece, 

M. D. R. 

Milan, Monday, April 4th, 1870. 
Dear Father and Mother, 

I intended to write to you yesterday but was sick in bed 
all day so put it off. During the day I received your letters 
telling me about the party. It must have been quite an affair 
from what you say. How I wish I could have been there! 
You must have had a good many young people there. 

It is getting warm and pleasant here now and the Americans 
are beginning to come. Last Friday as Emma and I were walk- 
ing in the street with Mr. Clarke whom should we meet but 
the Mr. Jones we met at the Grand Hotel in Paris, not the one 
we saw at Florence. Saturday as I was coming home from a 
lesson at Lamperti's I met Conklin and brought him home 
with me and we went to the Scala that night to hear the new 
opera, II Guarany, and he made an appointment to go walking 
with us yesterday afternoon. 

The other day I bought you one of those black embroidered 
shawls — while I was about it I thought I would get you a hand- 
some one and this is as handsome a one as I ever saw. It is 
of very fine cashmere, extra size and the embroidery is very 
fine. They wear lace on them a good deal and perhaps that old 

73 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Puschia lace of yours. I paid 60 francs for it, or 12 dollars, but 
that is cheap for it. I am sorry my pictures are not yet finished 
so that I might send them in this letter. I expect to have them 
Wednesday and will send them immediately. They are the 
best I ever had taken. I think before I go away I shall order 
some more as it is so difficult for me to get a good picture. 

There is a good deal of sickness in the city we hear. Mr. 
Jones told us of a very sad case of a young lady from Boston 
who died at the hotel du Louvre at Naples. She had been 
travelling with the Cushings and they had left her there to wait 
for some others with whom she expected to go to Egypt, and 
while waiting she was taken sick with fever. Mr. Jones hearing 
of it went to offer his services but the hotel people wouldn't let 
him in — told him she was much better and would soon be out. 
Two days after she was dead and he heard that she was deliri- 
ous and used a knife on herself. There was also another case 
in Rome. A young gentleman and his three sisters from 
Philadelphia were there and one of the sisters took the fever 
and died and it affected the brother's mind, so they couldn't 
induce him to leave on account of his own health and in two 
weeks from the time his sister died, he died also. 

There is a family from Boston by the name of Bonney 
living here, of whom I have made mention before, I think. 
The oldest daughter is very sick and the doctor who attends 
her says it is a wonder to him that all the Americans who 
come here don't die, that they make too much of a change 
in their diet and ways of living, besides the change of climate. 
However, now we live very well. We have excellent bread 
and butter and good rare beefsteak, nearly every day, and 
chicken and salad. We told the lady of the house that we 
couldn't live on the Italian dishes and since the fare has 
changed we are much better. 

The season in London is from May to August and we 
were saying perhaps it would be better to go straight to 
England from here and meet Mr. Greeley in Paris and be 
in London while there is something going on and then come 

74 



ITALY 

back to Germany and Switzerland and Holland and do Paris 

the last thing, sailing from Havre. I don't think it is nice 

for ladies to travel alone. It would be a grand thing if I 

could learn to speak Italian and French and German fluently. 

But although it would be a great advantage mentally, I don't 

feel as if I could stay away from home among strangers so long. 

I want you to keep me posted all the time in regard to what 

you intend. If mother comes don't bring more than a small 

trunk with a few things, three or four of your most suitable 

dresses, just enough to wear out in travelling, and get new things 

to bring home. The cost of extra baggage is enormous and in 

travelling one doesn't need a variety of dresses. Tell Jimmy 

and Lolly we have a tame hen here who walks all around the 

table when we are at dinner and fights with the cat. The hen 

flew over my head one day when it got very angry, the cat is 

afraid of it. Neither of the animals is remarkably neat. 

With love to all from 

Your aff. daughter, M. D. R. 

Milan, April ioth, 1870. 
Dear Aunt Mary, 

I was so disappointed not to find any letters on my return 
from church to-day. 

My pictures came a few days ago and I enclose two of them. 
I am very much pleased with them — think before I leave shall 
order another dozen though I expect to have some taken at 
Labitzky's in Paris, a famous place. I am so very hard to take. 

We have seen no more Americans since last week. I went to 
church alone this morning and found it quite full of strangers, 
but they were all English. The week has passed by without 
anything occurring. I am trying to learn as much as possible 
while taking lessons in French and Italian. Have changed my 
music teacher — he was too lazy, did not come regularly. As 
yet have taken only one lesson of my new teacher, Lamperti, 
who has the greatest reputation of any one here. I bought 
half a dozen tickets at twelve francs apiece. Shall only use 

75 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

one a week till they are gone and after, Mr. Menni thinks he 
can get him to give me two a week for twenty francs. I have 
to pay a little more because I take my lessons alone. For his 
ordinary lessons he charges 8 francs and they are very strange 
affairs. From twelve o'clock till five every day he is in his par- 
lour and as many as twenty people come to take their lessons. 
He takes them in turn as they come (has a lady to play the 
accompaniments) and gives each 10 or 15 minutes on exercises 
and after he is through with the exercises he goes back to the 
first one and gives them another 15 minutes on cavatinas. 

There are men as well as women who take their lessons 
and it is a rendezvous for all the artists in the city. They all 
smoke and talk as loud as they can and walk up and down 
the room. For my part I don't know how they manage to 
sing in such a hubbub. My voice seems weaker than it used 
to, perhaps because I am studying those exercises calculated 
to make it agile and flexible. We are very much astonished 
to find how the money goes, but when I consider that we are 
paying for our board and lessons and everything we have it is 
certainly cheap. 

I have made a hat of thread lace on a thin frame and put 
violet ostrich tips on. The whole cost me 30^ francs or 8 
dollars and a half, greenbacks. Dress goods here in Milan 
cost as much as in America and thread and Valenciennes 
lace more. I sha'nt buy any dress while I am here, tho I 
am sadly in need of one. Our washing is certainly very cheap, 
never over 25 cts. a dozen, and when I went to the ball, I had 
some things done up that would have cost fully two dollars 
and I only paid about 60 cents. The Carnival and the two balls 
are what took the money out of our pockets. 

I never would advise any one to come to Europe to travel 
in the winter — summer or spring is the time to come, when one 
can be comfortable. We could go from England to Holland and 
Germany and Switzerland. It would give us a better chance 
to see all the countries in a pleasant season and save carrying 
all our baggage through England from Paris for we should return 

76 



ITALY 

by the French line. How I dread crossing the ocean again, it 
seems as if I could never get up courage to do it! 

What do you think about my getting some coral earrings 
to match my set. I would like to have some. It is still quite 
cool here — not a strawberry as yet. I have no doubt it is 
warmer in St. Louis than here. The Prince Umberto and 
Princess Marguerite are here now and will drive on the Bas- 
tione this afternoon, but we don't either of us feel very well 
and don't think we'll go out. 

Hoping you will like the pictures and will write soon, I am, 

Your aff. niece, M. D. R. 

Milan, April 24th, 1870, 
Sunday Afternoon. 
Dear Father, 

Your letter dated Feb. 5th arrived yesterday and very glad 
I was to get it, also in the same envelope one from Aunt Mary. 
Since I last wrote you, which was two weeks ago, I have had 
two letters from you. Last Sunday I got all ready to write 
in the afternoon when Mr. Clarke came for us to go walking 
with him on the Bastione, and I had to give it up. 

Last Sunday being Easter we went to hear service in the 
Cathedral. It was crowded with strangers and the music was 
superb, two full choirs placed on opposite sides of the high 
altar. The Arch-Bishop performed the service and it was 
quite as grand in its way as the ceremonies at Rome. You 
remember probably the two pulpits, one on each side of the 
altar. It was rather comical to hear the different priests who 
climbed up into one of the pulpits and read out of a book 
for two or three minutes and then retired, the people not 
paying the slightest attention to them, in fact I don't think 
half of them knew they were there until they were gone, but 
finally the Arch Bishop, whom we could distinguish by his 
"wearing a jewelled mitre, ascended into the pulpit, accom- 
panied by a long row of priests and candles and preached a 
sermon in Italian. When the Host was elevated and all the 

77 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 



people were on their knees the great bell of the Cathedral was 
rung and one of the choir with a magnificent baritone voice 
sang a solo. I never heard anything so beautiful. 

In the afternoon we went up into the public gardens 
and heard the band play and then on to the Bastione where 
we walked until the Princess Marguerite arrived. She is a 
daughter of the Duchess of Genoa and has married the oldest 
son of Victor Emmanuel, Principe Umberto, and will be future 
Queen of Italy. When she made her appearance on the Bas- 
tione she had one outrider on horseback, who went before the 
carriage. She was dressed in a suit of wine-colored velvet and 
bonnet to match and the footmen and trappings of the horses 
were in scarlet. A lady and gentleman of her suite were with 

her, while her husband, who never 
is seen with her, was in another 
carriage with an officer. They 
have only been married one year. 
Sunday evening while we were 
sitting quietly in our room who 
should come in but Mr. Clarke 
and Gen. Fiske. It seems Mr. 
Clarke was calling at the Hotel 
Cavour and was accidentally in- 
troduced to Gen. Fiske, who told 
him he had been hunting all day 
for two American young ladies 
and mentioned our names, and 
Mr. Clarke brought him immedi- 
ately to the house. We were so de- 
lighted to see him and he seemed 
equally delighted to see us and in- 
vited us to go with his party the next day to Lake Como, and 
we accepted. So at four o'clock the next morning he came for 
us and we started off in great spirits. There were Major Sealy 
of New York, and Mr. Murphy, the Consul General at Frank- 
fort, Germany. The latter's wife was to have gone but was sick. 

78 




PRINCESS MARGUERITE 
Now Dowager Queen of Italy 



ITALY 

After an hour and a half by rail we arrived at Camerlata, 
and the Courier got places for the General, Emma and myself 
in the banquette of the diligence, in which we went to Como, 
a delightful ride. As the mountains opened out before us 
they seemed like a high impenetrable wall. As we rode into 
the town we passed under a remarkable old gateway quite 
ancient in appearance and higher than any of the houses in 
the town. The openings were open arches and the whole 
overgrown with moss and weeds. In passing through the 
town we saw the Cathedral, a very beautiful church in 
white marble, covered with elaborate carvings of angels and 
saints. Arriving at the Lake we all went on board the steamer 
lying at the wharf and in a few minutes were off. We were 
quite a jolly party, all of us except Major Sealy being quite 
lively and the courier not the least so. 

The Lake is more like a river than a lake in appearance, 
being quite narrow — nothing can exceed the beauty of the 
shores, mountains rising in every direction abruptly from the 
water, and at every turn we could see the more distant and 
higher ones covered with snow, while everything around us was 
of a vivid green. The shores were lined with beautiful villas 
and groves and walks. One had a stone wall coming out into 
the water in a curve and mounted with statues. After about 
an hour and a half we arrived at the town of Cadenabbia, and 
took our breakfast there. 

In the meantime we had made the acquaintance of two 
American gentlemen on the boat. They turned out to be two 
rebel officers from Savannah. General Fiske knew the father of 
one of them and said they were a very fine family and he was 
a Union man. They were going to make the tour of the lakes 
Lugano, Maggiore and Como, had just returned from Con- 
stantinople and Athens. We had a nice breakfast at Caden- 
abbia and then visited the villa of Princess Carlotta. There 
we found a Magdalen by Canova and a bas-relief by Thorwald- 
sen in marble, executed at immense cost — also some pictures 
that I did not much like. 

79 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

The gardens were very beautiful — saw quantities of large 
camellia trees, one mass of exquisite flowers. After that we 
took a boat and went to the town of Bellaggio to visit the villa 
Serbelloni. We had quite a climb through the town and after 
we reached the grounds we had to make a very steep ascent 
to get a view of the three Lakes. In all our travels I never 
have seen anything equal to Lake Como in beauty. The water 
looked like velvet and the outlines of the mountains against 
the sky were too beautiful for my pen to do justice to them. 
At Bellaggio they have work in olive wood to sell. We bought 
some of those travelling bottles in wood cases for one and two 
francs apiece, and about two o'clock took the steamboat back 
to Como and arrived in Milan at about six o'clock. The two 
young Americans came back with us and General Fiske went 
away the next morning, but they stayed until Friday morning, 
when they left for Spain. While they were here we went with 
them to the French Comedy and saw the Princess there. They 
expect to be in Switzerland and Germany next summer and 
we may possibly meet them. 

Gen. Fiske was very kind and generous. He would not let 
us pay any of our expenses for the trip to Lake Como, although 
we insisted. I hope you will call and thank him immediately 
on his return; there are not many men who would have done 
it, however rich they might be. He has bought the greatest 
quantities of everything at every place he visited and sends 
the boxes continually to Paris. 

A Russian and his wife who are boarding here now have 
been telling us what a delightful trip one can make to St. 
Petersburg and back in three weeks, and I do hope you and 
mother will come over. We are inclined to think it would be 
better to go to England first instead of putting it off until the 
last thing. I don't see why you can't come over this year; as 
the summer is the pleasantest time to be over here I should 
think you had better come in June, or if not, I can travel until 
you do come. The trip we have been talking of is to go by 

steamboat after visiting England and Scotland to Stockholm 

80 



ITALY 

and from thence touching at several ports to St. Petersburg 
and to Moscow, then back to St. Petersburg again and by 
rail to Konigsberg and Berlin. This man says there is no 
country in Europe to compare to Sweden and for my part I 
would rather see some things that all the world has not seen 
than to explore thoroughly every little town in Germany and 
Italy. For instance in visiting Switzerland one can see just 
as much in two weeks as in four, for there is little variety in 
the scenery. 

We were the biggest fools ever known not to have gone 
to Constantinople and Greece. We could have gone from 
Trieste there and back in two weeks and we could go the route 
I have described on leaving England, by Stockholm and St. 
Petersburg, to Moscow and through Caucasia to Constanti- 
nople, to Vienna, Athens and to Trieste in six weeks. I would 
give anything to be able to make these trips. I don't see why 
it isn't possible. Would much rather see less of Europe. 

I think I have heard from Frank Rosengarten several times. 
He sails from Liverpool for America the 30th of this month, 
he wrote me. I wish you would send to his father for me the 
value of 46 francs in greenbacks, for those Roman scarfs he 
bought for me. It will be eleven dollars and a half, I think. 
I should think it would not be much longer before we leave 
here, about five weeks. If we don't go to Paris first I shall 
send and have a suit made, or if I do go there shall buy it 
myself, a black silk one, my old one is completely gone. 

It is a hard life to live here tho one doesn't mind it so much 
except when one gets homesick. 

With much love to you all and to all inquiring friends, 
Your loving daughter, M. D. R. 

Milan, May 15th, 1870. 
Dear Lolly; 

This morning I went to church as usual but saw no Ameri- 
cans, all the strangers being English. Mr. Garrard is not well 
enough to preach, although he insists upon coming to church, 

6 81 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and tries to put on his robes and enter the chancel, but the 
doctor will not allow it. We sent him a bouquet about a week 
ago. You can buy a bouquet as large around as a large dining 
plate for one franc. It is astonishing how cheap flowers are. 
You will think when I tell you how cheap things are that it is 
astonishing how I manage to spend so much money. It is 
because I have to pay for everything and the demand is con- 
stant, some little thing being necessary every day. I am tak- 
ing now three singing lessons a week for which I pay 12 francs 
the lesson. A German lady who has been singing in Berlin 
for several years boards in the same house with us, and as she 
takes also three lessons a week we manage to go every day 
together and take an hour lesson, so I take one half-hour and 
she the other, much better for both of us as we really get the 
value of six lessons instead of three. Lamperti keeps me en- 
tirely upon the exercises so I am not learning anything new but 
intend to take a few songs just before I go. I think I shall buy 
some operas here, but they will weigh down my trunk amaz- 
ingly. Don't know whether I shall buy any Italian books or 
not, have not yet been to price them. I would rather have such 
things as those for souvenirs of Europe than merely clothes. 

The other day Mad. Grim, the German lady I spoke of, 
and I went into a little vegetable store to buy some eggs to 
drink before going to our music lesson, and were much amused 
to see an image of the Virgin with a nasty little oil lamp burn- 
ing before it and beside it anything but an elegant picture of 
a danseuse. They are the most inconsistent people here, you 
would think from the number of the Madonnas and the faith- 
fulness with which they keep the lamps burning before them 
that they were the most religious people in the world, whereas 
they haven't a single idea of religion. 

We took one day of last week to go to Monza to see the 
King's park. We left here at one o'clock and drove the distance, 
ten miles, arriving at the town at about half past 2, and drove 
through the park for an hour or so. The Prince and Princess 

spend a few weeks here every summer at a castle near the park. 

82 



ITALY 

The public park is very large and beautiful, nothing more than 
a series of woods cultivated and kept in perfect order. The turf 
was dotted with forget-me-not and all sorts of beautiful wild 
flowers. And there were beautiful little streams and rustic 
bridges. It all looked so delightful and secluded that Emma 
and I and little Rose from the house, whom we took with us, 
took off our shoes and stockings and went in wading. I 
guess there are not many people who have done that in a 
King's Park. 

At five o'clock we took our dinner in the garden of an 
albergo, in the midst of the park, and then had a delightful 
ride home through the twilight. As we were riding along who 
should we meet but the Prince on horseback and all alone, 
going out to Monza to see the Bonognini, a lady friend for 
whom he neglects his wife shamefully, although she is very 
pretty and they have only been married a year. 

We made a desperate effort Friday and went to the Ambro- 
sian Library, where we saw a few fine paintings and quantities 
of sketches by all the celebrated painters. Among the cartoons 
was one of Raphael's of the School of Athens. We saw the 
correspondence of Lucretia Borgia and Cardinal Bunbo, also 
letters by Cardinal Borromeo and Leonardo da Vinci, and some 
very valuable illuminated volumes in Latin and Hebrew, also 
two books of the Koran. Attached to Lucretia Borgia's letters 
was a lock of her hair, very light, and of a dull yellow tinge, per- 
haps in the sunlight it may be golden, but there it appeared 
of a dull tinge, though pretty. 

Mr. Clarke invited us the other day to coffee at his house, 
also Mad. Grim and her husband who is a Russian, and says he 
is going to ask us some time to eat strawberries. You would 
laugh if you could see the berries they have here. They are 
about the size of peas and have not nearly so much flavor as 
ours, and they eat them here some with lemon juice and sugar 
and others with wine. They look at us in astonishment when 
we put sugar and cream on them. 

We had thought some of going to Stuttgart if it got too 

83 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

warm here. I suppose by this time you have made up your 
minds whether you will come or not. I shall hope to hear soon. 
If you do not I don't want to come home. I can live cheaper 
here than at home and can be learning so much more — besides 
it is better for my health to live as quietly as we have done this 
winter. Milan is looking very beautiful now, the public gar- 
dens are one mass of flowers and the Bastione is delightfully 
shaded. We often go out there and sit down and look at the 
mountains, which, although it is hot here, are covered with 
snow and make one cool just to look at them. The number 
of babies that I hear accounts of is something prodigious. 

Give my love to all my friends. I believe it is easier to 
spend five francs than a dollar, for they do fly away so. I 
hardly expect to hear from you after you get this, in Milan, 
for we shall probably have left. However you might hazard 
writing once more to Ulrich. 

With love to all inquiring friends, and much love for you 
all, I am, Your afL sister, M. D. R. 

Have you kept all my letters ? The stamps are for Jimmy 
and the four together are Russian. 

The other day Emma and I went up on the Bastione and 
sat down on one of the benches there, and very soon the Prin- 
cess drove past. In the course of a half an hour she passed 
many times and seeing that we were not Italians she seemed 
to notice us and called the attention of the lady and gentleman 
who were with her to us. A few days after we saw her again 
and she smiled at us and they all looked after us. She is always 
with the same gentleman and lady. I wouldn't change places 
with her for a good deal. 

Milan, May 18th, 1870. 
Dear Mother, 

I have time only to write a few words. Bring your black 
satin, you may have an opportunity to wear it. Don't buy a 
single thing in America. Anything will do to come over on the 
steamer and you can buy a travelling dress in Paris for one- 



ITALY 

half of what you can get it at home. Of all things don't get a 
waterproof suit, they are the meanest things in the world. 
They stick to everything and catch all the dust and dirt. As 
to the wrapper, I scarcely wore mine at all on the steamer. 
I have worn it more since I came here when I have been sick, 
but I should think there would be very little use for one in the 
summer. On the steamer all that I wore was my suit of flannel 
and flannel petticoat and then put one of the blankets over 
me and suffered more at night with heat and want of air than 
I did with cold, but in the day time it was difficult to keep 
warm. A waterproof cloak serves for a rainy day. For Switz- 
erland one needs only two dresses, one to ride on the mules 
and the other to dress up in. Take my advice and don't get 
anything but shoes to bring with you and bring enough of them 
and comfortable ones. I should think you had better get a 
hat in Paris to travel in. It will be more comfortable and it 
is pretty warm work to go sightseeing all day. I feel quite 
sick to-day. It is only the 18th of May and yet the heat is 
like with us in July. We find our rooms very warm. I don't 
know if we can stand it another month but will try. The 
missionary that father writes about is this very Mr. Clarke 
himself. He used to be a missionary at Constantinople also. 
Don't bring any more stuff with you than you can help. I 
had to leave half of mine in Paris. 

In great haste, 

Your arL daughter, 

M. D. R. 




SWITZERLAND 

Chailly, Lausanne, Switzerland 
June 7th, 1870. 
La Rosiere. 
Dear Aunt Mary, 

You will be rather astonished to find that we have changed 
quarters, but the heat became intolerable in Milan so that we 
couldn't sleep at night and lost our appetites so we concluded 
to come here, where Mary Perry spent some time last fall on 
the shore of Lake Geneva, not far from the Paris route, so we 
can be ready to start for Paris on short notice. I have already 
sent our address to Bowles and Bros., so that father will find 
it as soon as he arrives. 

We left Milan the last Sunday night of May. Mr. Clarke, 
Mde. Grim and Mr. Sadler and two Italian Professors, Patuzzi 
and Castelf ranco, came to see us off. We felt quite badly when 
it came to leaving as we had been there so long, we had begun 
to feel quite at home. Another Italian by the name of 
Garavaglia whom we knew quite well went to Turin at the 
same time we did. In the, afternoon he sent us each an 
enormous bouquet with small notes in English. We laughed 
over them until we cried, so you can imagine they were amusing. 

We arrived at Turin that night at eleven o'clock and 
went to the Hotel Trombetta, and the next morning early 
started off to see the sights with Mr. Garavaglia. At break- 
fast we had made up our minds to go to the church of La 
Superga, situated at some distance from Turin, on the top 
of a high hill or rather mountain. Underneath this church 
are the tombs of all the Kings of Savoy. So we took a carriage 

86 



SWITZERLAND 

at about eleven o'clock, after having walked through some of 
the principal streets, and drove to the foot of the hill. Mr. G. 
had informed us that it was necessary to go on "aback," as 
he expressed, so we were quite prepared to see the three don- 
keys awaiting us. They are such comical objects, and one does 
look so funny on them. I think you would all have laughed 
well if you could have seen us start off, Indian file, each one 
with an enormous sun umbrella. Mr. G. expresses himself so 
comically with his Italian idioms put into English words, that 
it is utterly impossible to keep from laughing in his face. I 
have as much control of my risibles as any one and I couldn't 
abstain. When we get home E. and I will have some rich 
things to tell you. 

By the way I long to see Mother on a donkey! It was a 
very hot day that we made the ascent of the mountain and it is 
a great wonder that we did not take terrible colds, for on de- 
scending into the vaults we found it so cold that we could see our 
breath distinctly. The centre tomb is magnificent. It is here 
that the last king is always kept until his successor dies, then he 
is removed into a side tomb to make way for the new one — so we 
go! Victor Emmanuel was king of Savoy before he was made 
King of Italy, and will be buried here also. They say he never 
has entered the place but once on the occasion of his father's 
death. 

The church itself is built in circular form with a dome and is 
quite rich in marbles. They used to keep a great many priests 
here but Victor Emmanuel, not being sufficiently fond of them 
to be willing to maintain the expense, has cleaned them all out 
except two. There is a chapel where they say the priests used 
to assemble and one of them would go up into the pulpit and 
address them on the subject of the dinner for that day and 
advise them to eat, drink and be merry. When we got down 
to the foot of the hill before Emma could get oil her donkey 
it commenced to roll and kick up such a dust! 

Coming back to Turin, in the afternoon we went into the 
Cathedral, not by any means remarkable. The royal chapel is 

87 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

separated from the church by a glass partition, behind the high 
altar. We were obliged to go through the royal palace to enter 
it. It is quite imposing but gloomy, being finished all in black 
and gold. Inside a glass box kept in the grand altar, is a cloth 
bearing the impression of the body of our Savior. Afterwards 
we visited the apartments of the royal palace, ascending by 
means of a magnificent staircase. On our way out we met the 
Prince Amadeo, face to face, with two gentlemen of his suite. 
The drums beat every time he enters or goes out of the 
Palace. 

At dinner that day rather an amusing circumstanceoccurred. 
There were two gentlemen sitting opposite us who didn't hesi- 
tate to criticize us quite freely, thinking themselves perfectly 
safe, as they were speaking Piedmontese, a dialect which 
strangers don't understand. But Mr. Garavaglia happened to 
be perfectly familiar with it and so after they had discussed us 
at length he called a waiter and spoke to him in Piedmontese. 
The amazement depicted on the countenances of those men was 
too comical. They didn't try to conceal their consternation 
but said, "Oh what shall we do — he understands Milanese!" 
After dinner we drove an hour or so on the Corso, a long street 
bounding a square and shaded on both sides with tall trees. 
The Corso in summer is from six to nine, but in the winter 
from 3 until dinner. 

That evening as we were in the hall settling up our 
accounts we made the acquaintance of two Chinese. There 
was an embassy of them, staying at that hotel, travelling 
round the world. They passed us several times in the hall 
and finally one of them stopped and smiled at us and 
we were so much amused at his appearance that we smiled 
too. He was dressed in rich blue and gray silk and his hair 
all shaved off except at the back and that was braided in a long 
queue which hung down almost to his feet. Seeing a flower 
in Emma's hands he said "flower" and we were quite amazed 
to hear him speak English. Then another came up and we 
managed to find out that they had been in America and liked 



SWITZERLAND 

it better than any other country. They said also "America — 
mademoiselles — very well," with a vigorous affirmative nod, 
which was meant to convey more than the words expressed. 
They wrote their names for us, Fuyeh and Rworan, and asked 
us for our pictures. They said theirs were in their trunks 
locked up and down stairs and that they would give them to 
us the next morning, but we told them we were going away too 
early. 

We left Turin early Tuesday morning, Mr. G. having 
accompanied us to the depot, but after we had said good-bye 
to him and the train started out of the depot, we began to feel 
that we were pretty well alone, with nobody but ourselves to 
depend on. Consequently we pulled long faces and sat up very 
stiff and straight with an expression which was intended to 
strike dismay into the hearts of all (men) beholders. It was 
sufficient for all but one — he, in spite of our ferocious appear- 
ance, continued to smile amiably upon us during the two hours' 
ride to Susa. There was also in the carriage a very amusing 
French woman who informed us that crossing Mt. Cenis was 
the worst thing in the world and that she suffered terribly with 
seasickness, in consequence of which she had prepared herself 
with a big hood and already, in anticipation of the ascent, she 
began to cough suspiciously out of the window. The amiable 
gentleman alluded to now began to render himself still more 
so by attempting to open a conversation with me in reference 
to travelling in general — it is unnecessary to say he was not 
successful. 

We were now arrived at Susa and went into the waiting 
room to eat the lunch we had brought with us from Turin. 
The "amiable" stationed himself about two feet in front of 
us and we were really beginning to fear he would prove a 
nuisance when the door opened and who should enter but 
Mr. and Mrs. Bishop, who had been at the same hotel with 
us in Rome. We were glad enough to see them and to have 
the pleasure of their company as far as Aix-les-Bains, where 
they were going. There were too many people to be accommo- 

89 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

dated in the train and we were obliged to wait a half an hour for 
them to put on another train and after a great deal of sputtering 
about first-class and second-class, we were at last put into a 
first-class car and off we started. We were immensely pleased 
with the scenery for about four stations, and then, beginning 
to feel rather queer, nothing more, there was a perceptible 
diminution in the enthusiasm of the party, we settled down 
into contenting ourselves with admiring the constancy with 
which an old French lady and gentleman took their potations 
of eau sucre as we issued from each tunnel at the top of the 
mountain. 

For at least two hours on the top the railway is covered 
to prevent the avalanches which are constantly falling from 
injuring the road. There was also in the car a Swiss woman 
who had paid second-class but was put in our car, — as the 
only available space, whose head was a little turned by her 
sudden elevation in rank, and she held forth to an admiring 
but small audience on the beauties of Alpine scenery. I think 
most of us were oblivious to everything but our own feelings 
until we reached St. Michele. There just as we were about 
taking the train for Geneva I encountered some Lowell friends, 
the Whitneys, who were travelling with a party of Bostonians. 
I had only time to say good-morning and ask how they were 
and they were off. 

Arrived at Aix-les-Bains, Mr. Bishop thought it advisable 
for us to get into a carriage especially for ladies, as the "ami- 
able" was still to be seen lurking around. We had still another 
change to make before arriving at Geneva, which place we 
reached at nine o'clock. 

We had been much amused all day at seeing a most awkward 

youth with a fat old gentleman, whom we supposed was his 

father (he wore a most extraordinary red and white cap), but 

the former with all his awkwardness had a pleasant, intelligent 

face that we took rather a fancy to. When we arrived at Geneva 

we got into the omnibus of the hotel De la Paix and had to wait 

some time for the baggage. In the meanwhile this fellow seated 

90 



SWITZERLAND 

himself at the other end of the omnibus and we began to discuss 
him. Emma said — he understands English! No, said I, every 
time I have heard him speak it was in Italian, so we felt quite 
free to discuss him. When some man offered to come in E. said 
to me, we won't let any but good looking ones come in, well then, 
said I, you will have to put somebody out. You can imagine 
then our amazement when on arriving at the hotel he spoke to 
the waiter in plain English. 

We took our supper at contiguous tables, and he informed 
us that the old man was a Russian and he an Irishman. 
The next morning as we were waiting in the reception room 
for the omnibus he hung around and finally asked us why 
we didn't go by boat, that he was going that way to visit 
his mother, Lady Armstrong, who was boarding at Ouchy 
just below Lausanne. He insisted upon riding to the depot 
and buying our tickets for us, and not in the least mind- 
ing the remonstrances of the guard he ushered us into the car. 

So here we are some distance out of Lausanne in the midst 
of the most beautiful scenery imaginable, and occupying an 
attic room — fortunately it is not hot. Our beds I think have 
made the ascent of Mt. Cenis head foremost and have never 
been able to recover their equilibrium. We could be well 
enough off here if we could be out of doors all the time, but 
of course I don't like to leave Emma long alone, and it is 
awfully dreary in the house. Moreover the table is miserable. 

Yesterday evening was the most beautiful sunset I have 
seen in a long while. On the north side of the lake where we 
are there are only hills, but on the other side are the high Alps 
rising abruptly from the water's edge, some of them covered 
with snow, and yesterday when the sun set the white rocks 
of all these mountains were tinged the most beautiful rose 
color and the water of the lake was of all colors of green and 
blue. From our windows we can see the ruins of a tower built 
by the good queen Bertha the Spinner, i cannot realize that 
I am in the midst of so many historical objects, one gets used 
to seeing them and they don't have at all the same prestige 

91 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

that one would think they would have. I have not heard a 

word from father for about two weeks and as I am very anxious 

to hear when we can join him in Paris I don't know what to 

make of it. 

Lausanne, June 12th., 1870. 

Still not a word from Father. I think it is very strange he 

must have known we couldn't stay in Italy so late as this. 

Night before last we went into town to hear a sacred concert 




THE LAKE OF GENEVA 



given at the Church of St. Francois by the St. Cecilia society 

of Lausanne. The chorus was finely trained and they gave a 

part of the St. Paul very effectively. I forgot to say that last 

Sunday I went into town to attend the English service and 

saw our young Irishman and his mother, whom he introduced 

to me as Lady Armstrong and then he walked out home with 

me. Since then he has been out to call twice, first alone, and 

92 



SWITZERLAND 

second with his mother, and she invited us to come to see her. 
So yesterday we drove down to Ouchy and she insisted upon 
our sending away the carriage and staying to tea, and after 
tea we went out on the lake in row boats. As it was bright 
moonlight and the mountains were enveloped in a sort of haze, 
it was as lovely as possible. 

The Beau Rivage, a magnificent hotel, is situated directly 
on the shore of the lake, i.e. with only a garden between, 
and here all the evening a band plays and there is a plat- 
form built out into the water where people can sit and watch 
the boats and hear the music. I cannot imagine a greater 
combination of delights than is afforded by a stay in such 
a place as that. It seems Lady Armstrong is a sister of Sir 
Francis Armstrong. This son, Montague, is only eighteen 
years old, but has seen so much of society that he appears 
much older than that. He spent all the winter in Florence 
with an aunt and as he had letters of introduction to the 
Prince Orsini and some of the first families there, went into 
society a great deal. We thought it was very polite in 
them to come and see us, as they didn't know anything of us 
and meeting us on the railway, and he is too young for us to 
have any designs on or he on us. I must go now and get ready 
for dinner, so will say good bye. The Irishman is going to 
make us some sketches — he does them remarkably well. 
In great haste and with much love to all, 

Your aff. niece, M. D. R. 

P. S. I open this to say I have just received a telegram 
from father in Paris saying they all safely arrived and we leave 
to-morrow noon for Paris by the way of Yverdon and Neuf- 
chatel. 




FRANCE 

Paris, June 27th, 1870. 
Dear Aunt Mary & Children, 

There is something about the very atmosphere of Paris 
which is fatiguing — there is so much noise and confusion, and 
so much to be done that we feel, when we come home late in 
the afternoon, as if we could go right to bed and stay there. 
I don't think Paris is any too healthy myself and long to get 
away from it. Tuesday or Wednesday, the 2nd or 3rd of July, 
we shall leave for London. 

We came by the way of Neufchatel and had to ride all 
night. During the afternoon we passed by the shore of Lake 
Neufchatel through the most delightful country. All the land- 
scape was of the most beautiful green and dotted over with 
brilliant flowers, (poppies grow wild in among the grain) and 
every few miles we came across some old ruin with high pointed 
towers and Gothic arches. In the night, however, as we ap- 
proached Paris we began to feel the effects of the drought, and 
on our arrival we were perfectly disguised with dust. 

We did not find Father at the station and I was so discour- 
aged that when we arrived at the Grand Hotel and I went up to 
his room, all I said in way of salutation was, Why father! how 
could you let us come here alone but the poor man was not to 
blame, as the telegram had made the mistake, saying ten o'clock 
instead of five o'clock. We hadn't the slightest idea where they 

94 



FRANCE 

were stopping but as good luck would have it found them at the 
Grand Hotel. 

We have been here now two weeks and have worked as 
hard as any poor dogs ever did, what with sight-seeing and 
shopping. When I arrived here I was quite ragged — I had 
not bought a new dress since I came over and my old ones 
were hanging together by the last thread (figuratively speak- 
ing) so my first business was to hunt a black silk suit. 
After going through all the large establishments- to find one 
ready made, unsuccessfully, I went to a dressmaker who 
promised to have one done last Monday and here it is Friday 
and it is not yet arrived. In the meantime I await the giving 
away of the last thread — the last hair that broke the 
camel's back. 

I have always looked forward to Paris as a sort of shopping 
Paradise where you had only to say you wanted a dress in such 
and such a color and immediately you would be invested with 
the dress, a perfect model of beauty and style. Instead of 
which I find it is quite the same old story here as at home. 
To get the best style you must go to the most expensive 
dressmaker and thereby defeat the object of buying here. 

For the past week we have been busy sightseeing, improv- 
ing the pleasant weather in seeing the suburbs of Paris, a very 
difficult matter in the fall as it is always sure to rain. A week 
ago last Sunday Father and mother and I went to the Hotel 
des Invalides to hear military music. I wrote you about it 
when I was here before, and I wanted mother to hear it. 
There are now in the Hospital three hundred men who fought 
with the first Napoleon. It is a grand sight to see them march 
up the aisle to the drum roll and when the host is elevated 
they lower arms and bend the head during the trombone solo 
which is always played at that time. 

Last Sunday morning Father and I went to St. Roch. It was 
a fete day and we heard there was to be fine music, and were not 
disappointed. There was a procession of children all dressed in 
white, with wreaths of roses on their heads, who came up the 

95 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

> middle aisle to the music of the most magnificent brass band I 
ever heard. Finally when the officiating priest came into the 
aisle from the entrance, carrying the host, the band followed him 
and he was preceded by the censer boys, who turned every mo- 
ment in the progress and swung the censers backwards while 
others had baskets of rose leaves which they threw high in the 
air. Altogether it was a magnificent sight. The long line of 




THE PARK AT ST. CLOUD, PARIS 



censers swung in perfect time, the flowers and the incense and 

with all the glorious music which made the whole building fairly 

tremble with sound. I shall not readily forget it. I think Father 

was quite pleased, as he did not seem to think his time had 

been thrown away. He made the remark that "old-fashioned 

muster was nothing at all to it." 

In the afternoon all of us went out to St. Cloud, as the 

fountains were advertised to play at four o'clock. The Court 

96 



FRANCE 

are now occupying the Palace* so we were not admitted to 
the private grounds and had to content ourselves with the 
Public Park. The grounds are lovely, laid out on the side 
of a hill, and the celebrated fountain is laid out in terraces 
descending from the private garden of the Palace. The 
water falls in broad sheets from one terrace to another, 
while at the sides, vases and dragons of all shapes throw out 




THE LOUVRE, PARIS 

separate spouts. The whole effect as you stand at the foot 
and look up is very beautiful. Next Sunday we are going to 
Versailles to see the fountains play, — there they only play on 
the first Sunday of each month and on grand occasions. 

Monday father devoted to business and Emma to rest and 
Mother and I took the "Louvre" for our duty that day. I had 
already spent three days in it last fall and had not finished, so 
this day I made that an object and think I succeeded. The gems 
of the collection of pictures are all in one room which I believe I 

*This Palace was destroyed in the War of 1870-71 by the Germans. 
7 97 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

told you about last fall. There are two originals of Murillo's 
Madonnas and a holy family of Raphael and the Mona Lisa 
of Leonardo da Vinci, a holy family of Andrea de Sarto, the 
Marriage of Cana by Paul Veronese, St. Michael overthrowing 
the Demon by Raphael, and many others. In the sculpture 
Gallery I was anxious to see the Venus of Milo, to compare it 
with the two at the Vatican and Capitol at Rome. I like it 
better than the Venus de Medici, the celebrated Diana a la 
biche is also in this collection. While looking at the souvenirs 




THE PARK AT VERSAILLES, NEAR PARIS 

of the first Napoleon, his old gray coat, &c, the camp bed, 
table, and chair, and the bench he sat on at St. Helena, we 
came across John Davis. 

Wednesday we went to Fontainebleau. It is two hours 
from Paris, a long ride. We saw the table where Napoleon 
signed the abdication, the apartments where he imprisoned 
Pope Pius 7th after he brought him from Rome to perform 
the ceremony of Coronation, also the apartments of Mde. 
de Maintenon. We saw there souvenirs of all the French 
Kings from the time of Francis 1st. There was one splen- 
did old fireplace on the., ground floor, representing King 

98 



FRANCE 

Henry 4th on horseback, a basso relievo of white marble 
on black ground. The present Empress occupies the same 
bedroom that Marie Antoinette did, the furniture is all em- 
broidered by hand and was a present to Marie Antoinette. 
We saw and were much interested in the rooms occupied by 
Marie Antoinette. Did not drive in the forest for want of 
time. I suppose it is quite the same as other forests I have 
seen, but I should like to have seen it.* 

Yesterday we went out to Malmaison. First went into the 
village church of Rueil where Josephine and Hortense are 
buried. The former is represented kneeling at her prayers and 
in the dress she wore at her coronation. The likeness is said to 
be very striking. We walked from there to the Palace, which 
is only an ordinary country house and quite plain, still there is 
an air of home and comfort about it that none of the others have. 
The ceilings are low and the rooms cheerful. In the music room 
is the very harp she used to play on and in her work room her 
tapestry work is just as she left it, the needle stuck in the work. 
Up stairs we saw the bed where she died and two very fine crayon 
portraits done by Hortense, one of herself and one of her hus- 
band. Altogether it was a most interesting old place. 

On our return to town we went to the church of St. Germain- 
des-Pres, the oldest church in Paris, but it has been so altered 
and transformed that it has quite the air of a new one. All that 
interested me in it was the tomb of James Douglas. The other 
day we visited Pere la Chaise, the great cemetery of Paris. It is 
a strange place, not at all like our cemeteries. It is on a side 
hill and is laid out in regular paved streets like a city, the 
tombs rising up on each side like miniature houses. It is 
exactly like the street of tombs in Pompeii. The tomb of 
Abelard and Heloise is the great attraction. The effigies in 
marble lie side by side on the slab under which their bodies lie. 
I couldn't begin to tell you the names of all the distinguished 
people who are buried there. Moliere, La Fontaine, Rachel, 
Grisi, Manuel Garcia, Balzac; Marshal Ney's tomb is only a 

* She went to the Forest in 1897. 

99 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

plain grave such as we have in America. So much for the 
sights. 

Mother tells me grandmother has my quilt nearly finished 
and that it is a beauty. I expect to be delighted with it and 
hope it will take the premium. Tell Jimmy to save his stamps 
and I will get him a book. I didn't come over to spend my 
time shopping but to see and learn something. 

Give my love to all. Mother will write soon I guess. 

Your aff. niece, M. D. R. 




ENGLAND 



London, July 18th, 1870. 
Langham Hotel. 
Dear Aunt Mary and Children, 

We left Paris just a week ago to-morrow morning, and a 
day or two before the war was declared between France and 
Prussia, so we missed all the excitement that is raging in that 
city at present. The impression everywhere previous to the 
declaration was that there would be no war, and they are all 
down on France as being the cause of it all. * We had a delight- 
ful passage across the channel, the water was as smooth as 
glass, and we enjoyed our first meal of roast beef, hugely. 

We are delighted with London, — it is such a wonderful city. 
I never expect to see a tithe of it, there is so much to be seen. 
To be sure we have visited some of the great sights but at 
every turn I see names that I have read about all my life 
belonging to lanes and buildings that I long to explore. The 
buildings are all massive and aged in appearance, and there 
is a sense of solidity about everything that is very impressive 
and then there are such beautiful parks scattered all through 
the city, where you seem transported suddenly into the heart 
of the country. 

Our first day was spent in Westminster Abbey. I never 
saw a building that made such an impression upon me at 
first sight, not that it is larger or finer than any other, but 

*The Franco-German War began soon after. 

101 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

because of the irregular architecture and its extremely old 
appearance — it is black with age. To enter you cross a yard 
paved with tomb stones which brings you into one of the 
transepts. The building is in the form of a cross, in the Gothic 
style, high vaulted arches and elaborate carving. The win- 
dows are of stained glass and the light very dim. Every avail- 
able spot that is not used for the accommodation of the con- 
gregation is devoted to tombs. Here you see the tombs 
of all of England's greatest men for ages. The Poets' Corner 
is the most attractive spot of all. Shakespeare has a monu- 
ment here, but his body is in the church at Stratford-on-Avon. 
Chaucer's tomb is very elaborately carved and worn with time. 

Behind what is the high altar in a former Catholic cathedral 
is the famous Chapel of Henry 7th, which has the finest carved 
stone ceiling in the world. Here are the tombs of King Henry 
and his wife, their effigies on their tombs, the whole enclosed 
by a brass railing. In this chapel the Knights of the Order of 
Bath held their reunions, their stalls surround the chapel and 
their banners hang over them. In the other small chapels lie 
the bodies of Mary Queen of Scots and Lord Darnley and 
Queen Elizabeth. I remember one curious tomb made by 
some earl for himself and his two wives. His effigy and that of 
his first wife are to be seen but that of the second wife is 
missing, she having refused to be placed on his left side. 

The shrine of Edward the Confessor, a monument of the By- 
zantine order, occupies an elevated position behind the high 
altar. It is here the sovereigns of England have been crowned 
for many years, the chair used on the occasion has been used 
since the time of Edward the Confessor, and is a most uncom- 
fortable looking affair and very much decayed. I can't begin to 
tell all there is of interest in the Abbey for it is a perfect ceme- 
tery. I found on one tomb an inscription that I have often met 
with in books, "They were a noble familie for all the brothers 
were valiant and all the sisters virtuous." I- was interested in 
looking at all the celebrated inscriptions but haven't time to 
speak of them all. Milton's tomb has the oft-quoted verse, 



ENGLAND 

comparing him with Homer and Virgil, Chaucer's, the follow- 
ing, in Latin — 

"Of English bards who sang the sweetest strains 
Old Geoffrey Chaucer now this tomb contains, 
For his death's date if reader thou shouldst call, 
Look but beneath and it will tell thee all." 

The remains of the unfortunate princes, Edward 5th and 
Richard, Duke of York, were deposited in the Abbey after 
they were found under the staircase in the Tower. There are 
no inscriptions on Elizabeth's and Mary's tombs. The Clois- 
ters are precisely like all we have seen in Italy, a portico sur- 
rounding an open court. The carved stone work is falling 
away in every direction and they are obliged to keep it in 
constant repair to keep it from falling in pieces. 

In every direction from the Abbey we came across remnants 
of the old architecture built into newer buildings — we went into 
Westminster school, or rather peeped into one of the corridors 
lined with students' cells. The boys were all engaged in a wrest- 
ling match and their caps and gowns were flying about at a great 
rate, and the noise they made was deafening. I guess boys 
are the same all over the world. Gowns don't seem to have a 
dignifying effect. Everywhere we go we meet these college 
boys with their funny square caps. 

Our second day we spent in the Tower and National Picture 
Gallery. The former used to be outside of the City on the bank 
of the Thames, but now the city is built all around it. The 
guide who conducted us through it was dressed as a yeoman of 
Henry 8th's time in a very strange costume. What was for- 
merely the moat is now used as a garden, otherwise its aspect 
remains unchanged from former times. We saw the Traitors' 
Gate, where all prisoners of state made their entrance from 
the river. The White Tower is the centre building and was 
occupied by the Court when a royal residence, — what was 
once the great dining hall is now an armory, an immense col- 
lection of arms. 

103 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

In the same building is a fine collection of horse armor 
and suits of armor which belonged to celebrated men of 
former times. The walls of this building are 14 feet thick; 
here Sir Walter Raleigh was imprisoned. The room where 
he slept was dug out of the solid wall and the only way in 
which fresh air could be admitted was through a small hole 
in the door. In another building we were shown where Peveril 
of the Peak was imprisoned and many others who have covered 
the walls with inscriptions, one of them — "Be ye faithful unto 
death and ye shall receive a crown of life." The guide pointed 
out to us the very spot where Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane 
Grey were executed. The husband of the latter was executed 
in the morning in sight of her window and in a few hours they 
beheaded her also. We saw all the crown jewels of England, but 
to me they were not nearly as interesting as the building itself. 

At the National Gallery we saw the Turner collection. 
I don't like the pictures themselves as well as the engravings 
of them I have seen. I had always supposed that as he made 
it his special study to imitate nature as closely as possible that 
his pictures would possess the merit of being very natural, but 
it seems to me to be quite the reverse of the case. His coloring 
is very brilliant and there is a rough unfinished look about all his 
pictures, Queen Mab's Grotto in particular. A great many of his 
subjects are taken from the Revelation. There were also some 
Italian gems, an Ecce Homo and Mary Magdalen of Guido's 
and a Christ disputing in the Temple of Da Vinci (beautiful). 

That night we went to the Italian Opera, heard Lucca, 
Titiens and Mario. Lucca has a great reputation here but 
I was much disappointed in her voice. Titiens is magnifi- 
cent, tho' quite old now. Mario's voice is entirely broken. 
I can scarcely believe that he ever had a beautiful voice. The 
British Museum we walked through as rapidly as possible — 
it is a collection of everything and I have come to the conclu- 
sion that I won't enter another museum; they are all alike 
only that one is larger than another. 

Last Saturday was a great day at the Crystal Palace and 

104 



ENGLAND 

we determined to spend the day there. So we went out in the 
morning, (it is about six miles from the city)and took our 
lunch of the most delicious strawberries we ever saw, in a large 
saloon overlooking the country for miles , and then after looking 
round among curiosities of all kinds collected there went into 
the concert. These concerts are given once a week during the 




THE BRITISH MUSEUM, LONDON 



season in the Palace free of charge. We heard Christine Niel- 
son and were delighted with her voice, and Faure the great 
baritone, Mad. Sinico and Trebelli-Bellini. 

Afterwards we took our dinner in the restaurant, and that 
over, went out on to the terrace to hear the band of the Cold- 
stream Guards play. Godfrey, the composer of the "Guard's 
Waltz," and the 'Hildah," and others, is the leader, and they 

105 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

played splendidly. One young fellow played the "Last Rose of 
Summer" on the cornet so beautifully that it brought tears to 
everybody's eyes. I never heard anything more touching. 
Another played some wonderful variations of the Carnival of 
Venice on a piccolo and was cheered tremendously by the crowd. 
Then there came a display of fireworks which exceeded anything 
of the kind I ever saw. The whole sky was filled with stars 
bursting from the rockets and the great fountains were illumi- 
nated with red, blue and green and fire balloons were sent up 
every minute. It was too elaborate for my powers of descrip- 
tion — it was like a spectacle from fairyland. 

At ten o'clock we went back into the palace and heard the 
great Handel Organ and then came home well tired out, but 
had to get up early the next morning to hear Spurgeon. His 
church is capable of containing seven thousand people and it 
was crammed with people. They say he is only twenty-eight 
years old, but it seems hardly possible, he looks much older. 
He preaches in a conversational way, but his downright earnest- 
ness makes him very impressive. His text was — "Like as a 
father pitieth his children so the Lord pitieth them that fear 
him." A woman was taken with a fit and had to be carried 
out in the middle of the discourse. 

In the afternoon we went to St. Paul's and heard some glori- 
ous music. One of the little boys had a magnificent soprano 
voice. The whole service is intoned except the sermon. When 
the officiating minister went up to the pulpit preceded by two 
old men who carry silver maces he proved to be an acquaintance 
we made at Venice so we staid and spoke with him after service. 
Father took a very bad cold there and has been quite sick with 
it, but is better to-day. St. Paul's is an immense edifice, built 
according to the plan of Sir Christopher Wren, and is still 
unfinished and contains the tombs of Wellington and Nelson, 
Dr. Johnson's and Bishop Heber's, Sir Benjamin West, &c. 
It is celebrated for its great bell (which is only tolled on the 
death of members of the royal family), and for the whispering 
gallery. These two we didn't see because it was Sunday. 

106 



ENGLAND 

We expect to leave here to-morrow morning but have not yet 
decided where we are going. Father and Mr. Greeley are going 
to hear the debates in Parliament to-night, ladies are not 
admitted they say. We are all of us pretty well worn out and 
long to get into the country. We are afraid the war is going 
to prevent us from travelling much on the continent and the 
price of goods will be raised. We find London in every respect 
more expensive than the continent, and shall not buy anything 
here. Mother has bought an India shawl for $500. We 
haven't heard from you for a long time- — are you all well? My 
best love to all the family. 

Your aff. niece, 

M. D. R. 

Regent's Hotel, July 21st. 1870. 
Leamington Spa. 
Dear Aunt Mary & Children, 

I am very tired to-night, but thought I had better write 
you something about to-day's doings before going to bed, as 
it shortens the work in the end. 

Leamington is one of the fashionable watering places of 
England and is about two hours and forty minutes from London 
and a half hour north of Rugby. I would have liked to stop 
at the latter place but father was in a hurry to get here, and 
so we kept on. I saw some of the Rugby boys as we passed 
through the station. I wonder if Jimmy has read "Tom Brown 
at Rugby"? — it is a great boys' book. Part of the way the 
train ran with such speed that we were quite frightened think- 
ing the cars would surely leap from the track. 

There are medicinal springs in this place that are very 

good for rheumatism and skin diseases — father thinks they 

are going to do him good. So we walked down to them 

this morning and drank some of the water. It is very nasty 

stuff, like ocean water, only worse. About eleven o'clock we 

started off in a big carriage in which Emma and I sat up in a 

high seat behind the others, for Warwick Castle and Kenil- 

107 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

worth. We enjoyed our ride along the fine English roads, 
bordered with neatly trimmed hedges — the English keep the 
country in such a high state of cultivation that it is beautiful 
everywhere just for that very reason. 

Warwick Castle is on the river Avon — we had a lovely view 
of it as we approached. It is a grand old building, with high 
battlemented towers and is said to date back to the time of 
Caesar, but if so there is none of the original building left. The 
oldest part of the castle is Caesar's tower, which we did not 
enter. Of course like all old castles it is surrounded by a moat, 
which is now all overgrown with trees. We entered through the 
old portcullis into the open Green round which the castle is built 
and where we had a fine view of all its different portions-. 

Entering the lodge at our left an old woman showed us a 
collection of curiosities of the Giants, as she said. There was 
the great porridge pot of bell metal which will hold 102 gallons 
and which she said she saw emptied three times at the coming 
of age of the present earl. It belonged to Guy the great Earl of 
Warwick, the Giant, who lived in the year 1000 and who was 
over eight feet tall. She also showed us his helmet and his horse 
armor and his battle-axe, and many things of the same sort. 
Afterwards a man took us through that part of the castle used 
at present. The banqueting hall, the dining and drawing rooms. 
In the former was another collection of curiosities, armor be- 
longing to distinguished members of the family, &c, among 
them a helmet which belonged to Oliver Cromwell. In another 
part of the house we saw a plaster cast of Cromwell's face after 
death and a bust of Proserpine by our artist Powers. The cele- 
brated picture of Charles the 1st by Vandyke stands at the end 
of a long gallery filled with armor. He is represented as ap- 
proaching on horseback. The horse and rider stand right out 
from the picture as if they were alive. 

In the dining room is a very remarkable sideboard or buffet 

as they call it, presented to the present Earl by the town. It is 

made of a tree grown at Kenilworth and elaborately carved 

with scenes representing Elizabeth's visit at that place. I had 

108 



ENGLAND 

more interest in this castle from having read Bulwer's "Last of 
the Barons." This Baron was Richard Earl of Warwick, the 
King Maker, and is buried in the Beauchamp Chapel of St. 
Mary's church in the village. In this church we went up into a 
little passage where they used to hear confession — the steps of 
solid stone were worn completely through in the middle so that 
I could see through under the staircase. Here was also the 
tomb of Lord Dudley, Earl of Leicester. 

We next went to Guy's Cliff, where is the country seat of 
Lord Percy, and saw a part of an old monastery with cells 
dug into the side of the hill. Before the time of the mon- 
astery Guy, Earl of Warwick, having killed a great many men, 
became penitent and disguising himself as a hermit lived in a 
cave in the side of this cliff and went every morning to beg at 
the gate of his own castle and in that way supported himself 
until he died. They also showed us a well called Guy's well. 

Then we went to Kenilworth Castle. It is a glorious old 
ruin, overgrown with ivy. We climbed all over it and thought 
of the time when the Earl of Leicester entertained Queen Eliza- 
beth here and at the same time kept Amy Robsart confined in 
Mervyn Bower — we went into the very room. It was in the 
garden of this castle I believe that Elizabeth and Mary Stuart 
had their memorable interview. Elizabeth afterwards had this 
same earl beheaded at the tower. I should like to see this old 
ruin by moonlight — it seems to me like a haunted place, and 
as if the ghost of poor Amy Robsart, who suifered so here, 
might come out and confront one. How I should have liked 
to see this place just as it was during Elizabeth's visit! 

On our way home we passed through the grounds of Lord 

Leigh, the wealthiest nobleman of this county and saw all that 

remains of Stoneleigh Abbey. Saturday we intend to spend at 

Stratford. I am sitting in the dining-room of the hotel looking 

out into the garden which is a beautiful spot with a fountain 

and hosts of brilliant flowers. It is as cool and comfortable as 

possible. 

This is said to be a very fashionable place, and the hotel 

109 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

is full, but it is so different from with us. There is hardly ever 
any one to be seen here, in this room or at the bath room. 
I suppose a great many have private villas, but where they 
keep themselves I cannot imagine. 

Leamington, July 24th, 1870. 

To-day is Sunday, but we have not any of us been to church 
because we felt that we needed to-day for rest, as we are to 
start off again to-morrow, but I always have letters to write so 
there is no rest for me. Yesterday at half-past nine we started 
for Stratford-on-Avon, the home of Shakespeare. Driving 
through the country here is as delightful as possible — the grass 
is so green and there are so many fine old trees — father thinks 
he would like to own a place here. 

About four miles this side of Stratford we came to Charle- 
cote, the residence of Spencer Lucy — it has been in the Lucy 
family for generations since before the time of Shakespeare. 
As we came along whole herds of deer were lying down a short 
distance from the fence and father had to get down and go to 
look at them. In Shakespeare's time Sir Thomas Lucy lived 
here and it was in this very park that Shakespeare shot the 
deer and was arraigned in the Hall for deer-stealing. After- 
wards in one of his plays he brings in almost the whole scene 
and satirizes Sir Thomas under the form of Justice Shallow. 

Stratford is now a flourishing town, much larger than in 
S's time, but all its interest for strangers lies in the fact that 
the great poet was born here and here died. Our first visit was 
to the house where he was born. It is a little old fashioned 
house in Henley street and has been used as a butcher shop 
but has been bought by the government and restored to its 
original condition. He was born in the front room up stairs; 
its walls are covered thick with the names of visitors, among 
them on the window I saw the name of Walter Scott written 
with a diamond. 

There was a bust of Shakespeare on a table which is said 
to be the best likeness of him, and which does not in the least 



ENGLAND 

resemble the pictures we have of him in America. His face in 
this is rather fleshy and his mouth very small with full lips. 
There is nothing besides this in the house of any interest. In 
the garden there is a small mulberry tree, which the gardener 
told me was a lineal descendant of the one Shakespeare planted 
at his other house — there was also a white cat walking around 
whose acquaintance I made and who bore the rather remark- 
able name of William Richard — the gardener said he was not 
deaf as is usually the case with white cats. 

On our way to church we passed Kew Place where the 
poet lived after his return from London. At one time the 
house came into the hands of a Rev. Mr. Gastrell who had 
it razed to the ground to prevent the trouble of answering 
the questions of strangers who came there to see it. Since 
then the government has bought it and having uncovered 
the foundations keeps the garden around it in fine order. 
The large mulberry tree planted by Shakespeare's own hand — 
this same man had cut it down for fire-wood, and thereby made 
himself so odious to the inhabitants that they turned him out 
of the town. 

The church is a fair example of all the village churches 
of England, surrounded by a churchyard along the further 
side of which the Avon runs. It was a quiet, delightful spot, 
where I should like to spend a day. The interior is very 
pretty — contains some strange monuments of the Clopton 
family with colored effigies. Shakespeare is buried in front of 
the chancel with the others of his family under a plain stone 
slab, with the strange inscription which has prevented the 
government from moving his body to Westminster Abbey. 

"Good Frend for Jesus sake forbeare 
To digg the dust encloased Heare. 
Blessed be the man yt spares these stones, 
And curst be he yt moves my bones." 

On the left is a monument with a bust of Shakespeare 
represented as writing, and under it this inscription — 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

"Stay, passenger, why goest thou by so fast?" 
"Read, if thou canst, whom envious death hath plast" 
"Within this monument Shakespere, with whome" 
"Quick nature dide: whose name doth deck ys tombe" 
"Far more than cost: Sith all yt he hath witt, " 
"Leaves living art but page to serve his witt." 

All the time we were in the church the organist was playing 
on the organ, and I couldn't help but be impressed with the 
solemnity of the scene. The sexton showed us the parish reg- 
ister with the record of Shakespeare's baptism in Latin. "Gug- 
lielmus films Johannes, Apr. 26, 1564." I copied a very amusing 
epitaph I found in one side of the church, it was that of a 
woolen draper. 

"Heare lieth intombed the Corps of Richard Hill, 
A woolen draper beeing in his time, 
Whose virtues live, whose fame dooth florish stil 
Though hee desolved be to dust and shine. 
A mirror hee and paterne mai be made, 
For such as shall suckcead him in that trade, 
He did not use to sweare to close eather faigne, 
His brother to befraude in barganninge 
He woolde not strive to get excessive gaine 
In any cloath or other kinde of thinge." 

We took our lunch at the Red Horse Inn, the same where 
Washington Irving stopped when he visited Stratford, and saw 
the parlor he occupied — then went down into the fields by the 
Avon and sat down on the banks awhile, and then drove home. 
I believe we stop at Matlock, Derbyshire, to-morrow. This 
will have to do for to-day, I guess, as I am tired. 

M. D. R. 




SCOTLAND 

Edinburgh, Aug. 2nd, 1870. 
Royal Hotel. 
Dear Cliff, 

We arrived here in Edinburgh last Saturday night, and 
the very next morning mother fell on the stairs and sprained 
her ankle so badly that we thought at first it was broken — it 
very soon was terribly swollen and painful and we sent for a 
surgeon. He said there was no fracture but she would have to 
be very careful and might not use her foot — but must lie in bed 
for several days. To-day it is very much better — we hope she 
may be able to get up in a day or two. 

I believe my last letter was written from Leamington, so in 
accordance with my usual plan I will try to give you an idea of 
what we have seen between there and here. A two hours' ride 
from Leamington brought us to Matlock Bath, a lovely place in 
among the hills and on Derwent water, commanding a fine view 
of High Tor, and opposite cliffs. We stayed there only one night 
taking a drive to the paternal home of Florence Nightingale, a 
beautiful English home. Here father and Mr. Greeley amused 
themselves by dealing out pennies to at least twenty ragged 
youngsters. At the hotel there was a magnificent Plane tree, a 
tremendous one with its branches supported by poles, giving it 
the appearance of a banyan tree. At the Old Bath Hotel 
Lord Byron and Mary Chaworth used to meet. 

From there we went to the famous Peacock Inn at Rowsely, 

8 113 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

in the neighborhood of the Duke of Devonshire's place. It was 
a real specimen of the old-fashioned style of house, with high 
sloping roof and small diamond-paned casement windows, all 
half-grown with ivy. Our first excursion was to Haddon Hall, 
an uninhabited Castle left exactly as in the olden time and on 
that account we found it very interesting. It was built by 
Peveril of the Peak, the natural son of William the Conqueror, 
and has since been the residence of the Manners and Vernon 
family. It was here the celebrated Dorothy Vernon lived. 
I have never read her history but mean to. 

Entering the Court they showed us the Chaplain's room. 
Poor man, he was but an unimportant member of the house- 
hold, and was put off into a corner. The chapel too was a 
strange uncomfortable affair. The greatest space was devoted 
to the dining hall, kitchen and larders. How they ever managed 
to cook in such a dark place I don't understand, there was a 
great open fireplace and besides that something like our modern 
ranges and heavy wooden tables with basins cut in them for 
chopping things, places to cut meat and water troughs, the 
whole surrounded by small store-rooms. From the kitchen a 
small dark passage led up to the dining hall with a table raised 
on a platform and rude wooden benches to sit on. On the wall 
was an instrument used to fasten a man's wrist to the wall if he 
couldn't drink his portion and then cold water was poured 
down his sleeve. Some one says they never would have thought 
of pouring it down his throat. 

The drawing room was hung with tapestry and had the 
funniest little windows and closets — the bed-room contains 
an old bed all in rags, which must have been elegant, in 
which Queen Elizabeth slept when on a visit here. The great 
ball-room looks out on a stiff -looking terrace of theold fashioned 
style with a heavy stone balustrade and flight of steps leading 
down from it. This is the only place we have seen that gives 
one a perfect idea of how they used to live three or four cen- 
turies ago. 

From here we went to Chatsworth, the modern residence 

114 



SCOTLAND 

of the Duke of Devonshire, esteemed one of the, or rather 
the finest, place in England. The Park is immense and 
stocked with all sorts of game. The house is built in the Italian 
style and resembles, both exterior and interior, an Italian 
Palace. Near the house is a small building surrounded by a 
moat and called Queen Mary's Bower, as she used to spend 
some time on that spot when imprisoned at Chatsworth. I 
haven't time to tell about all I saw there, but I don't take the 
same interest in such a modern building anyway. 

There is a splendid library and a fine collection of paintings, 
and a large room devoted to statuary, in which there are some 
gems. The suite of state apartments is one hundred and ninety 
feet long, and splendidly ornamented with the finest wood carv- 
ing I ever saw, done by Gibbons. In one room is the wardrobe 
of Louis XIV. Arnong the elegant ornaments are some mala- 
chite tables and a clock in the same material, presented by 
Alexander 1st and the late Czar Nicholas of Russia. The 
walls of the chapel are richly ornamented with wood carvings 
and paintings. 

The gardens are laid out in every imaginable style and con- 
tain some fine fountains. One of them is an iron tree, so good an 
imitation that no one would suspect it and they generally play 
tricks on people. Mr. Greeley went under it unsuspectingly and 
got slightly deluged, though not enough to inconvenience him. 
There is an immense hot house built after the Crystal Palace, 
where I found a poor little kitten who is kept there to catch 
bugs, I suppose. It was evidently dying of the heat. The late 
Duke had immense rocks brought from a distance and piled up 
to make quite large hills and grottoes in his garden. There 
is everything there that money can buy. 

We went on to Manchester the next day but saw nothing 
there. The next day found us on the banks of Lake Windemere 
in a hotel where the American flag was floating. In the even- 
ing we took a boat ride on the lake and the next morning we 
were all on top of the stage coach en route for Keswick where 
we took the cars for Edinburgh. It was like our White Moun- 

115 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

tain travelling, but the scenery bore a striking resemblance to 
the Green Mountains. 

Of the four Lakes, Windemere, Grasmere, Thirlemere and 
Rydal water, Grasmere is the most beautiful, the grass cloth- 
ing the banks to the very verge of the water and then re- 
flected in it. Near Ambleside is the home of Wordsworth, 
but we did not stop to visit it. By the roadside we saw the 
rock with the steps ascending to it which he made himself 
and which goes by the name of Wordsworth's study. Both 
he and Coleridge have tombs at the village church but 
Coleridge is not buried there but at Highgate. Arrived at 
Keswick we had time to go up to Greta Hall, the former 
residence of the poet Southey and where he gloried in the 
beauty of the view to be obtained from its windows, and 
also to visit his tomb, a mile beyond in the village churchyard, 
only a plain black slab. 

Edinburgh, August 3rd. 1870. 

As we leave Edinburgh to-morrow morning to take a hur- 
ried trip through the Highlands, I must finish all I've got to 
say about this place to-night. Finding that mother's foot was 
not likely to prove dangerous we went out Sunday morning 
to hear the celebrated Dr. Stuart preach. He was a regular 
Scotchman in appearance, but spoke with very little brogue — 
his style is very concise and he is evidently a man of ideas 
but he hardly clothes them with enough ornament to render 
them palatable to an ordinary congregation. In the evening 
we walked over to St. Giles, where John Knox used to preach. 
It was formerly a cathedral but is now divided into three parts 
and three different ministers preach there at the same time. 

The next morning we went up on Carlton Hill to take a view 

of the city. Edinburgh has been compared to Athens — in 

point of situation and architecture. Edinburgh castle stands 

on a high crag, which looms up high above the rest of the city 

and is inaccessible except on one side, where a street runs down 

from it into the heart of the old city, to the castle of Holyrood, 

which slopes away from this street on both sides into a ravine. 

116 



SCOTLAND 

On the other side of one of these ravines stands the new town. 
From the top of this hill where we were standing we had a 
splendid view of both old and new town, and I have never 
seen a more picturesque sight, there is so much more variety 
in its position than is usual. At our feet lay the Castle of 
Holyrood, so celebrated in History, and on the other side Leith, 
the seaport of Edinburgh and in the distance the Bare Rocks, 
where the Covenanters used to hide. 




HOLYROOD CASTLE, EDINBURGH 



The monuments to Nelson and Dugald Stewart are on this 
hill, also the unfinished remains of a building designed tojbe a 
copy of the Parthenon at Athens. The effect when you are down 
at the other end of the city looking up the ravine is very impres- 
sive and different from anything I have ever seen. Holyrood 
Castle which we visited next is now used by the Queen when- 
ever she comes here, and has been remodeled to serve modern 
purposes, but the rooms connected with the history of Mary, 
Queen of Scots, are left just as they were when she used them, 

her drawing room and bed chamber, and adjoining the latter 

117 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

the little supping room in which took place the tragedy of 
Rizzio. They showed us the very staircase leading to her 
bedroom by which Lord Darnley and his associates ascended 
and entered the supping room. Here they seized Rizzio 
and dragged him through her bedroom out into the draw- 
ing room, stabbing him a great many times, when he final- 
ly breathed his last close by the door into the hall. He got 
behind Mary and tried to protect himself in that way, but 
it was of no avail, and they even threatened her life if she 
should attempt to interfere. The blood-spot still remains on 
the floor where Rizzio fell — and the partition which Mary had 
erected to prevent her from seeing it. 

Her bed chairs and a child's cradle are still in her bed cham- 
ber, though nearly fallen into decay. It is hard to realize that 
they ever were the rich things they really were. Her work-box 
is made of her own handiwork covered with glass — over it hangs 
her mirror, which we should not now consider fit for a servant's 
bedroom, so little and old fashioned is it. In the supping 
room is the block of marble on which she kneeled when she was 
married to Lord Darnley. His apartments were immediately 
over hers and connected with them by a small winding staircase. 

Opposite the Palace is a little low building called Queen 
Mary's Bath House, and adjoining it the ruins of the fam- 
ous Holyrood Abbey. The place is paved with graves — in 
one corner the royal vault where are buried James 2nd, James 
5th, and Lord Darnley. Nothing but the walls are standing, the 
roof being entirely gone. The street leading from this palace up 
to the Castle passes through the heart of the old town, by the 
Tolbooth, or old Jail, a remarkably old building, and past the 
house where John Knox lived. There is an effigy of him on 
the outside of the house represented as preaching to the multi- 
tude. This inscription is over the door, — 

,._ "Love God above all, and your neighbour as yourself." 

The houses in this part of the city are very strange looking 

affairs — they look so old it seems as if they must come down 

118 



SCOTLAND 

over your head; some of them are seven and eight stories high, 
which adds to their dangerous appearance, and are capped 
with little pointed towers. 

Just before reaching Parliament house we came to a heart, 
laid in the pavement, with stones. That is the heart of Mid- 
lothian and stands on the place where the old jail stood. In 
front of the Parliament House is a stone placed in the street 
to mark the spot. 

The Castle, like all other old castles, is a great rambling 
building with high walls and towers. There is nothing partic- 
ularly interesting on the inside but the rooms occupied by 
Queen Mary when James the 6th was born. When he was 
eight days old he was let down in a basket from the window of 
one of these rooms, at a fearful height, because they were doubt- 
ful of his safety. The prayer that Mary offered up at the time 
is painted on the wall. In another room, are kept the crown of 
Scotland and the Regalia. It seems the latter were kept in 
hiding for over a hundred years to keep them out of the hands 
of the English and some people even suffered torture on their 
account. Walter Scott was present at the opening of the chest 
when they were at last found, after the cause of their seclusion 
had been removed. 

Yesterday we spent in hunting shawls and to-day we drove 
out to Roslin Castle and Chapel, first visiting the Earl of 
Buccleugh's residence and then driving to Hauthomeden, the 
former residence of the poet Drummond, where we left mother 
to go in the carriage round to Roslin Chapel to which we 
walked. Drummond's house is built on a high rock at the 
head of a beautiful and romantic glen, through which the river 
Esk runs — the view of this glen from the house is perfectly 
lovely. Underneath the house and dug out of the solid rock 
are the caves where Bruce lived for a time. The room which 
served for his library has walls like a honeycomb to contain his 
books. His sword is there and a desk belonging to John Knox. 

We then walked through the glen, the distance of two 

miles to Roslin Castle. The Castle is nothing but an old ruin 

119 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

mostly underground, but the Chapel is considered one of the 
finest specimens of ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland. The 
stone carving is very beautiful, there is one pillar in particular 
of which the carving is considered wonderful. It seems the 
architect was not able to complete it from the design, so he 
went off* to Rome to study and while he was gone one of his 
apprentices finished it and the architect on his return was so 
provoked and jealous that he raised his hammer and struck the 
man on his head, so that he died. There is a legend that when- 
ever a Lord of Roslin is about to die, that the chapel appears to 
be in flames. Walter Scott speaks of it in his ballad of Rosabel. 

The Knights of Roslin were all buried in full armor un- 
derneath the chapel. This evening father and I drove over 
to Greyfriars churchyard, where some of the most distin- 
guished men of Scotland are buried, but found it closed, so 
we drove down through Cowgate, one of the oldest streets of 
the old town, where all the scum of the city lives and through 
Grass Market (where all criminals used to be beheaded), a filth- 
ier set of people I never saw — a squalid miserable looking 
set. Then we passed around under the castle, where the Earl 
of Moray with his followers climbed up one night and scaling 
the wall took the castle. The driver said that the soldiers now 
quartered in the garrison are in the habit of dropping themselves 
down over the wall if they want to get off of a night. It doesn't 
seem as if they possibly could without breaking their necks. 

Mother and I are going out to-morrow morning to hunt 
some blanket shawls. So far she has seen nothing she likes so 
well as those at home. 

Queen Mary's prayer is written on the wall in old English 
and very difficult to decipher — 

"Lord Jesus Christ that crounit was with thornse, 
Preserve the Birth quhais Badgie heir is borne, 
and send Hir Sonne successione, to Reigne stille 
Lang in this Realme, if that it be they will, 
Als grant Lord quhat ever of Hir proceed, 
Be to Thy Honer and Praise sobied." 
120 



SCOTLAND 

Herring seems to be the favorite food of the lower classes. 
The fish wives are constantly crying through the streets 
carrying them in baskets on their backs, and held in 
place by a leather strap passed over the forehead. No 
one, a stranger, would ever find the slightest clue to the 
cry they utter, their voices are so shrill and discordant, 
and their pronunciation so rude. 

Edinburgh, August 4th. 1870. 
Early this morning I went over to Greyfriars churchyard. 
They wouldn't any of them go with me, so rather than miss 
it I determined to go alone. As I had only a few minutes I 
had time to visit but few graves. The most important one is 
the grave of the Covenanters where most of those killed during 
the persecution of the Covenanters are buried. I copied the 
inscription on the tombstone as follows — 

"Halt passenger, take heed what you do see, 
This tomb doth shew for what some men did die, 
Here lies interred the dust of those who stood 
'Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood. 
Adhering to the Covenants and Laws, 
Establishing the same, which was the cause 
Their lives were sacrificed unto the lust 
Of Prelatists abjured, Though here their dust 
Lies mixed with murderers and other crew 
Whom justice justly did to death pursue, 
But as for them no cause was to be found, 
Worthy of death but only they were found 
Constant and steadfast and zealous; witnessing 
For the prerogatives of Christ their King, 
Which truths were sealed by famous Gutline's head, 
And all along to Mr. Renwick's blood 
Reproaches, torments, deaths and injuries 
But yet they're those who from such troubles came 
And now triumph in glory with the Lamb." 

About 18,000 buried here. 

Reference, "Cloud of Witnesses, Crookshanks." 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

I came across also another very curious inscription on the 
grave of Mrs. Peter Leslie. 

"She was! 

But words are wanting 

To say what! 

Think what a wife should be 

And she was that. 

1818." 

At one o'clock we left for Stirling, and arrived there at the 
end of one hour. Leaving our things at the station we walked 
up to the church and ruins of the Castle of the Earl of Mar. In 
this church James 6th was crowned King of Scotland, John 
Knox preaching the coronation sermon. Stirling castle was 
originally a Roman fortress and has since been a favorite resi- 
dence of the Scottish Kings. They show to visitors the room 
where James 2nd stabbed the Earl of Douglas on his refusing 
to renounce his share in a conspiracy formed among three or 
four powerful nobles for mutual protection, even against the 
King, and exclaiming, "If thou wilt not break the bond, this 
shall." The scene took place in the secret council room adjoin- 
ing the Star Chamber and his body was thrown out of a small 
window and interred near by. In 1797 some masons, while 
digging, came across a skeleton which was supposed to be the 
remains of the Earl. 

In the old churchyard adjoining the Castle I came across 
another funny inscription and will write it down as I like to 
keep such things. 

"Our life is but a winter day, 
Some only breakfast and away, 
Others to dinner stay 
And are full fed. 
The oldest man but sups 
And goes to bed. 
Large is his debt 
That lingers out the day 
He that goes soonest, 
Has the least to pay." 
122 



SCOTLAND 

From the castle twelve battlefields may be seen, among them 
that of Bannockburn. We met any quantity of Highlanders 
coming down from the Castle, which is now a military station 
and were much amused, tho a little disgusted, with the costume. 
At the same time I must say it is a very beautiful and striking 
one. It seems funny to see a man with bare legs, his red and 
white plaid stockings not coming half way up to the knees, 
these are fastened with handsome red garters and the pleated 
kilts don't come down to the knees. Then they had on tight 
fitting white jackets with a mass of white tassels hanging down 
in front and tremendous black hairy caps. I couldn't help 
feeling that it was a romantic sight, these Highlanders in 
their strange costumes pacing the walls of the castle and in the 
distance the very Highlands themselves which we shall soon 
be among. 

The Earl of Mar was a great villain it seems and that he 
was conscious of it is proved by the inscriptions over the doors 
of his ruined house. 

"The moir I stand on oppin hitht 
My faultis moir subject as to sitht 
I pray al luikaris on this luging 
Vith gentil e to gif thair juging." 

which, translated, is 

"The more I stand on oppin height 
My faults more subject are to sight, 
I pray all lookers on this lodging 
With gentle eye to give their judging." 

I am writing this at Perth, where we are spending the night. 
Perth is made famous by Scott's novel, "The Fair Maid of 
Perth." 

Banavie, August 7th. 1870. 
From Perth to Inverness, by the way of Aberdeen, was a 
delightful journey, tho the scenery was not as grand as by the 
Highland railway. We were unable to change our tickets or 
we should have taken the latter route. 

123 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We came near having trouble with our baggage at Aberdeen. 
The train was behind time and we had to rush for seats while 
the gentlemen attended to the baggage. Arrived at Keith 
father found his valise was "non est." You never saw a man 
look so crestfallen — he began to threaten immediately to return 
to "D'Amerique" as he always calls home. All his new clothes 
were in it and a new blanket shawl that mother had just 
bought — but it turned up at Inverness and "Richard was him- 
self again." Then there was another adventure. After we 
left Aberdeen the train stopped all of a sudden and on looking 
out we saw several women screaming and taking on dreadfully, 
but it was a long time before we found out what was the matter. 
It finally turned out that these women had been in one com- 
partment of a car next to a horse (they were common fishing 
women) and the horse had broken through the partition, at 
least almost through, and had frightened these women so that 
they jumped off while the train was running and one of them 
was somewhat hurt, and they had to back down the train 
for her. 

On the way to Inverness is the battle field of Culloden and 
not far beyond it we saw the heath near the Castle of Caudor, 
where Shakespeare makes Macbeth meet the witches before 
the murder of Duncan. We got into Inverness in time to take 
supper and in the evening we went out to the town. The river 
Ness runs through the town, dividing it into two parts. We 
walked up to what we thought was a castle on top of the hill 
overlooking the river, but it proved to be a Court House and 
jail, and we got into conversation with the old keeper who was 
sitting out in front. Father talked with him about the connec- 
tion of Scotland and England, and there was an old man sitting 
next to him who kept whispering to the jailer to tell father that 
Scotland was an unconquered country, that they had never 
been conquered. 

At Inverness we took the Caledonian Canal to this place, 

travelling in a small steamboat. We passed through several 

beautiful lakes, Loch Ness, Loch Oich, and Loch Lochy, as- 

124 



SCOTLAND 

cending and descending from each by means of locks, dur- 
ing which operation we got out and took several walks. 
The scenery is certainly very beautiful, and the mountains 
are even grand, though the highest, Ben Nevis, is not 4500 
ft. in height, but they are mostly destitute of vegetation 
and indented by deep fissures which give them a very wild and 
rugged appearance. We made only one excursion during the 




THE CALEDONIAN CANAL, THE WATER JOURNEY ACROSS SCOTLAND 

day (and for that the boat waited for us) to see the Falls of 
Foyers, which are very celebrated. The guide book tells us 
they consist of two cataracts, but it has been very dry here 
for a long time and consequently we saw only one, a very small 
affair. I can imagine though that it might be very pretty, when 
there is a full volume of water, which by the way is of the same 
peculiar amber color as that of the Falls of Montmorency. 

125 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Banavie, Scotland, August 8th. 1870. 

We are in a charming hotel here, commanding a fine view 
of Ben Nevis and the Braes of Lochaber. Charley Greeley 
made the ascent of the mountain yesterday morning. They 
say it is a very dangerous mountain, there are so many preci- 
pices. Charley came very near going over one he came upon 
unawares, but the guide called to him and he fell back immedi- 
ately and saved himself. Some man went up from Fort Will- 
iam the night before and has not been heard of since, though 
they have sent up guides to hunt him, but they were unsuc- 
cessful and they think he must have perished. What an awful 
thing it is! 

Last evening we walked across about two miles to an old 
ruin called Inverlochy Castle. It is supposed to be a thousand 
years old, or rather its origin is unknown. From its appear- 
ance we judged the materials must have all been brought 
there by hand, none of the stones being larger than a strong 
man could carry. We stayed there during the sunset and had 
a superb view of the surrounding mountains. Mother went 
with us but her foot is feeling sore this morning. I think she 
uses it too much. We leave for Oban this evening and thence 
to Fingal's Cave to-morrow, so I will say good-bye for this 
time. I am afraid you won't have patience to read it now. 

Your aff. sister, 

M. D. R. 

P. S. The children ought to trace out our route on 
the map. The party all went yesterday to hear Norman 
McLeod, except mother and myself. We were so sorry, 
father says he is the finest preacher he ever heard. 




SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

Gotha Canal, Sweden, August 22nd. 1870. 

Last Tuesday morning we left the pier of Granton, the 
port of Edinburgh, in the steamer Scandinavia, bound for 
Gothaborg, Sweden. The only lady on board, besides mother 
and myself, was from Dublin, and we three had the ladies' 
cabin together. We were glad there were no more of us for 
we were so dreadfully seasick that we could not have borne 
it at all if we had been obliged to stay in our close berths. As 
it was we lay on our backs three nights and two days without 
being able to lift our heads. I'm sure I never suffered so in 
my life, even father and all the gentlemen were terribly sick. 
That German Ocean is an awfully rough customer. I can 
well realize that the Swedes and Norwegians must have al- 
ways been capital sailors to follow such a sea. 

About forty-eight hours out we reached Christiansand, a 
small town on the coast of Norway. The vessel stopped there 
only half an hour but we had time to land and take a look at the 
town, so clean that you would be willing to eat off the street, and 
built of wood principally, all the houses having pretty white 
muslin curtains and windows filled with flowers. We re- 
turned to the steamer laden with cherries and going straight 
to our berths there remained until the next morning, when 
we came into Gothaburg. 

In the meantime in spite of our sickness, we had made 

some very pleasant acquaintances, the Irish lady, Mrs. 

McGusty, of whom I have already spoken, and her husband, 

quite a prominent barrister, and several other gentlemen from 

Dublin, also lawyers, and three young Scotchmen. This Mr. 

127 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

McGusty seems to hold himself a little above the other Irish- 
men and they certainly seem very cultivated people and have 
been very polite to us. The others are very witty in the real 
Irish way and have kept us fairly convulsed with laughter a 
great part of the time. 

We were all thankful enough to be on shore once again 
and having taken rooms at the Gotha Kallare at Gothaburg, 
we "fixed up" and then started off to seethe town and observe 
the customs of the people, and found plenty to amuse us. Al- 
most every street has a canal running through the center, 
fenced in with iron railing, crossed with many bridges and add- 
ing much to the picturesqueness of the place. After walk- 
ing around in the afternoon we took a carriage and drove out 
into the country and stopping at the residence of a rich mer- 
chant we ascended a rocky eminence in his grounds from which 
we had a remarkably fine view of the whole town and sur- 
roundings. Driving back we saw quantities of the Swedish 
peasantry in their picturesque costumes which remind one 
much of the Roman dress as they wear the bright bayadere 
striped aprons. 

The first evening we went up to the Park, where they 
give concerts twice a week, and had the good fortune to hear 
some very fine music. The Swedes are very much like the 
French in their tastes and in fact their whole sympathy 
in the present war is given to the French. This "caffe" 
and garden quite reminded me of the summer concerts of 
the Champs Elysees. As we came away they played the 
Marseillaise and they were obliged to repeat it several times 
the crowd became so excited. The next day we went to the 
museum and saw a collection of Swedish paintings which 
didn't amount to anything and an immense whale, the largest 
in the world, all fitted up on the inside as a ship, and we all 
went inside, but the odor was something so frightful that we 
didn't stay any longer than was absolutely necessary. 

At the hotel in this place we had the most delicious apple 

pudding, but their vegetables are dressed with some kind of 

128 



SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

sweet sauce that I found very unpalatable. Saturday even- 
ing we all went on board the "canal-boat" which is not like 
our canal boats, but a regular little steamer only built very 
narrow. It was quite funny the way we were packed in, there 
was such a crowd of people on board. The boat started at 
two o'clock in the morning and we got up at eight just in time 
to see the celebrated Trollhatten falls. 

To see them we had to take a two mile walk through 
the woods while the boat was lifted through a series of locks 
and to a level with the top of the falls, the only thing of 
the kind in Europe, I believe. We had a delightful walk 




THE GOTA CANAL, SWEDEN 



through the fine old pine woods and soon came to the falls, 
which are the finest in Europe with the exception of Schaff- 
hausen. Crossing over to an island in the middle of the stream 
we had the full benefit of the roar and rush of the waters 
and it was exceedingly fine. Passing beyond we met the boat, 
again embarking. 

At three o'clock we had our dinner on deck under the awn- 
ing, a course which we much preferred to eating down in the 
close cabin. They begin a meal in Sweden by eating bread 
and butter and cold meats and partaking of a sort of stimu- 
lant called "Pomerania" standing at a side table, then they 
sit down and take soup and afterwards meat and then comes 

9 129 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

fish, the last thing before their dessert. These latter were al- 
ways very fine. On this day in particular they brought on 
plum pudding and a sauce which was on fire and we had great 
fun helping ourselves to it, the wind would blow the flame right 
into our faces. 

Travelling in this way we spent three days passing through 
Lake Wener the third largest lake in Europe, and Lake Wetter. 
We often got out to walk when the steamer passed through 
locks and that added much to our enjoyment. In one place 
the name of which I cannot call to mind, we entered into a 
large building which looked like a sort of castle, and the foun- 
dations of which appeared very ancient, being built of huge 
boulders. Over the door was the inscription — "Meuni Maxi- 
mum a Domino." At another time we got off and walked 
through a village where we saw a huge May Pole ornamented 
with flowers and ribbons which brought to mind Longfellow's 
description of a Swedish village scene and May Dance written 
as a preface to "the Children of the Lord's Supper." 

At another time we visited the most ancient church in Swe- 
den, a little old tumbledown affair, but one of the most interest- 
ing places I ever saw. There were two tombs of Kings in it with 
great gilt crowns suspended from the ceiling over them. In 
one of the side chapels was a collection of coffins entirely 
different from anything I have ever seen in any museum. 
They were piled up one upon another, painted in red ground 
with gaudy pictures all over them. 

We arrived at Stockholm about noon of the third day and 

were met at the landing by a Commissionaire who had come 

down to meet us with fine open carriages and said he had rooms 

already engaged for us, that they had been telegraphed at the 

hotel that we were coming. We could not understand the cause 

but thought we would go on so we drove up to the hotel in style 

and were ushered into rooms furnished in the most elegant style, 

all gold and upholstered with blue. The very rooms occupied 

by Burlingame and the Chinese Embassy. They must have 

thought we were great bugs by the way they treated us. 

130 



SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

We expected to find Stockholm rather behind the times, in- 
stead of that we found it a lively, gay place, more like a small 
Paris than anything else. That afternoon I went riding with 
Mr. and Mrs. McGusty through the Djurgatan or Deer Park, 
which is the great park of Stockholm, and by many considered 
the finest park in Europe. The city is built on three islands, all 
connected with bridges, which gives the city a highly pictur- 
esque appearance. Our hotel was situated in the place of 
Gustavus Adolphus, immediately opposite the royal palace. It 
is a fine, well-built city and the people are fine looking and in- 
teresting in their appearance. 

That evening we took one of the little steamers, which 
take the place of omnibuses in other cities, and went to 
one of the public gardens, where we heard a fine concert 
and saw a grand display of fireworks. The next day we 
went through the royal palace and thought it the finest 
one we had ever seen. We were most interested in the pri- 
vate apartments of the king and queen. In the apartments 
of the former we were admitted just as he had left them. He 
is an artist of no mean order, and we saw the paintings which 
he is now at work on, his sleeping room which is as plain and 
unpretending as possible, his smoking room and fine collec- 
tion of pipes and meerschaums and his little "armoury," con- 
taining a rare collection of costly antiques. There we saw a 
set of Colt's revolvers sent as a present to him from Abraham 
Lincoln. These rooms may be called his sanctum sanctorum, 
and it was a fortunate chance that we were permitted to see 
them. 

In the Museum we saw the celebrated boots of Charles 
the 1 2th and the coat in which he was killed at the battle of 
Lutzen, also a collection of the wedding clothes of the differ- 
ent sovereigns of Sweden. The most interesting place in 
Stockholm to me was the church called Ridderholm, in which 
are the tombs of Charles the 12th, Gustavus Adolphus, and 
General Bernadotte. Their tombs are surrounded with the 

131 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

banners of foreign nations captured in battle and the keys of 
conquered cities. 

An attack of neuralgia in my face prevented me from 
going out to Drottningholm, the summer residence of the 
royal family, but some of our party went and told us that 
they were invited into the dining room by the command of 
the queen dowager when the dinner was all ready to be served. 
Father invited the American minister, Mr. Andrews from 
Massachusetts to take dinner with us, and he proved to be 
some connection of mother's. We were invited to take dinner 
at his house the night before we left but could not. 

We were fortunate in seeing the king, by accident, as we 
were looking out of the window he passed on his way from the 
hunt to his summer palace. He had on a green hunting suit 
and was a very fine-looking man. His people think he is not 
quite dignified enough as he is very fond of dispensing with 
any unnecessary ceremony. The Swedes are the neatest peo- 
ple I ever saw, and they have the most delicious food. (We 
have just lived on salmon, it is no luxury whatever here.) They 
are almost all Protestants and well educated and have that 
look of intelligence in their faces, which is the distinguishing 
mark between an educated and an uneducated people. 

This little trip through Sweden will always be remembered 
by me with pleasant feelings because it was such a rest from 
ordinary travelling and the country was more than ordinarily 
interesting. 

Our whole party came to the conclusion that travelling 
by canal, though it sounds a little primitive, is a most de- 
lightful way of locomotion. 

Finland, 

Steamer Wiborg, Aug. 26th, 1870. 

We left Stockholm this morning at two o'clock, having 

come on board last night. Here some of our party left us, to 

return, and the American minister came down to see us off. 

From eight to eleven this morning it was so rough that we 

132 



SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

were obliged to lie in bed until we reached the Aland Islands. 
Since then it has been quite smooth. The scenery is very 
much the same thing all the time, flat rocks covered 
with pine trees. We reached this place at nine o'clock 
this evening and have just returned from a stroll around 
the town. 

We were surprised to find it quite a large well-built town, 
having expected to find it a mere village. It was too late to enter 
the cathedral, the chief point of interest, so we had to content 
ourselves with looking at the outside, as we start off very 
early to-morrow morning. It is an immense structure built 
of great boulders, fastened together with cement — it is in the 
crypts of this church the coffins are left half open, exposing 
the embalmed bodies ready for the resurrection. It must be 
a horrible sight, but one I should have ventured to look at if 
I had had the opportunity. This church was built six 
hundred years ago, the first means of introducing Christianity 
into the northern country. On our way back to the boat we 
stopped to get some lunch in a very attractive looking "caffe,'' 
but couldn't get anybody to wait on us so came back and got 
it here, having found everything very nice on this boat. 

August 27th. Helsingfors. 

We have stopped again to-night at Helsingfors, the capi- 
tal of Finland. The scenery to-day has been much more 
varied than usual, in some places quite striking. This morn- 
ing we passed an old dismantled castle, the former residence 
of the Swedish Kings. The Captain told us that we might 
have seen there the old stone floor where Eric somebody used 
to pace up and down until the stone was worn into deep hol- 
lows. Also passed during the day some very picturesque 
ruins of forts. 

We begin to hear the Russian language now and last night 
a lot of Russian officers and soldiers came on board dressed 
in light covered overcoats which reach down to the floor and 
while it rained this afternoon they threw a funny pointed 

133 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

hood over their heads which gave them a very wolfish appear- 
ance. We entered the harbor of this town just at sunset, 
when the whole town was beautifully outlined against the 
red ground of the sky. On arriving we went at once to the 
Russian church, an edifice built on a high rock and orna- 
mented with minarets in the Eastern style and here we 
found the evening service going on. It was quite different 
from anything I have ever seen. Behind the railing of the 
chancel instead of a high altar there was a sort of drawing- 
room from which the priests entered dressed in the most gor- 
geous apparel. The chanting was fine and it was very in- 
teresting to observe the conduct of the worshippers. They 
crossed themselves as often and as rapidly as possible and 
then falling down on their knees bent over until their fore- 
heads touched the floor and then rising again would repeat 
the same ceremony. We didn't stay through the service but 
proceeded to the Lutheran church, a fine building in the shape 
of a Greek Cross, with a large open space in front of it and a 
huge flight of stone steps ascending to it. 

We then adjourned to the Park, for our supper, and heard 
some very good music besides having a fine treat of straw- 
berries. I was counting up to-day the length of time that I 
have eaten strawberries this year and find it is five months, hav- 
ing followed them from Italy to Finland. They use such funny 
little carriages here, called "drostkys," something like a very 
low basket wagon and over the horse's neck rises an arch of wood 
to which the reins are fastened. We think the Finlanders re- 
semble Americans more than any nation we have seen. The 
men are very distinguished looking both here and in Sweden. 

Wiborg, Aug. 28th. 
It is nearly midnight, but I don't like to go to bed without 
relating the occurrences of the evening, as we get into St. Peters- 
burg to-morrow afternoon and I shall have plenty to write 
about there. I have had my first Drostky ride to-night and 
I can't say I am anxious for another. They only hold two 

134 



SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

people and it is all those two can do to keep in, they shake 
about so in every direction, what with the speed with which 
they drive their animals and the jingling of the bells one be- 
comes quite confused. Our destination was a country place 
called Mon Repos, the present residence of the Governor of 
Finland. 

We found it a beautiful wild place full of moss-covered 
rocks and fine old pine trees and with some very pretty water 
views, but quite out of repair. The house was of great 
extent but only one story high. We enjoyed the ride all 
the more that we have been so long on ship-board, it is now 
almost two weeks since we left Edinburgh and we have 
come all the way by sea and canal. As we came in this even- 
ing, it being Sunday evening the sailors from the neighbor- 
ing Russian fleet had been on land all day and they were 
just embarking in the tugs which had come to convey them 
to the steamers, and at least one-half of them were so drunk 
they had to be pulled and hauled and some of them carried 
on board. 

At about eight o'clock this evening the Captain came and 
proposed that we should go up to a ball at one of the cafes. 
As they keep their Sundays from Saturday night at six until 
Sunday at six they think no harm of it, so we all went up and 
found it just opening. It was quite a pretty hall, dressed 
with evergreens and with the band in a balcony. We went 
just as we were with our old shoes and not even gloves on. We 
found our Irish friends seated at the top of the room in 
state as if about to open the ball. Almost all the ladies 
were in short dresses and in fact there was every variety 
of costume. 

The Captain told us that many Russians came here to 
spend the summer on account of the bracing air and that most 
of the ladies present were Russians. They were all dressed in the 
worst possible taste, but there were some quite nice men, offi- 
cers from the Russian fleet. Two of them came up and asked 
me to dance, and as I couldn't say anything I was obliged 

135 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

to get the captain to apologize for me. The way in which 
they take their partners is most amusing. They go up to the 
lady and stand before her and she gets up and dances off with 
them, all without a word said. I noticed they danced much 
more rapidly than we do. One man came up and asked me 
to dance (in English), so I couldn't refuse, it seems very strange 
to think of being at a ball in Finland. We came back in com- 
pany with two young Englishmen, who have been shooting 
and fishing in Norway for two months, and they were telling 
us about the national soup, made of all kinds of fruit, put into 
a sort of red gruel, which they say is delicious. They put raw 
salmon on the table here and I see the poor children eating all 
kinds of fish raw. 

St. Petersburg, Aug. 29th, 1870. 

We passed the fortress of Cronstadt this morning about 
nine o'clock, the most formidable fortress in Europe, sit- 
uated on an island at the mouth of the Neva guarding the 
city of St. Petersburg. From this point, eighteen miles from 
the city, we could see the gilded dome of the great church 
of Isaac, situated immediately in front of the hotel in which 
we now are. As soon as we had arranged about rooms we 
took a commissionaire and started forth. I had read much of 
the riches of this church but all that I had read had not pre- 
pared me for the reality. It is impossible to appreciate its 
richness. In the first place the exterior, built in the shape 
of a Greek Cross, has four grand entrances, each one guarded 
by many pillars of Finland granite monoliths and polished 
like a mirror. They are 60 ft. in height and seven in diameter. 
Three immense steps, each one a monolith, lead up to the build- 
ing from every side and its whole extent — in short the whole 
building is of the most magnificent proportions. The center 
dome is also surrounded by thirty pillars of granite and at the 
four corners are four smaller domes — on top of the gilded 
dome is a huge gilt cross. 

On entering the church one is overwhelmed with the mag- 

136 



SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

nificence on every side, floors and walls all of the most beauti- 
ful variegated marbles, mosaic paintings of the most bril- 
liant hues. A wall, or screen, as it is called, separates the 
inmost shrine from the eyes of the vulgar. The several doors 
leading to the inside are of openwork silver gilded and in- 
terspersed with beautiful paintings. All the paintings of the 
Madonna and Saviour are surrounded with silver and gold 
frames blazing with jewels, thousands of diamonds, most of 
them as large as a pea, and many of them a half an inch 
across, to say nothing whatever of sapphires, emeralds and 
rubies. Then forming a part of this screen are ten columns 
at least five feet in diameter of real malachite, such as is 
used for jewelry, and two columns of lapis lazuli, an immense- 
ly expensive stone, all from Siberia. 

The inmost shrine presented by the Prince Demidorf, and 
costing one million of dollars, is built in the shape of a 
small circular temple. The bronze work alone must have 
cost enormously — the four grand doors are finer in my eyes 
than the celebrated Ghiberti doors in Florence, and on the 
four sides of the exterior are bronze bas-reliefs of the grand- 
est conception. A bronze railing surrounds the outside of 
the immense center dome, surmounted at intervals of three 
or four feet by colossal bronze statues of angels — then there 
are other bronze groups disposed over the building. I have 
attempted to give you an idea of the general style and char- 
acteristics of this building but it is utterly impossible for any 
one to form an idea of its magnificence — all the riches I have 
ever seen at home wouldn't be noticed here — it even cost a 
million of dollars to drive in the piles that the structure is 
built upon. It was built by the Emperor Nicholas. 

We ascended the dome and had a fine view of the city, 
giving us an idea of its general position and of the finest build- 
ings — there are many in the Oriental style with gilded domes 
and minarets, but we shall see more of that in Moscow. 
There are very many large and handsome public buildings 
and imposing palaces. I have never seen any city contain- 

137 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

ing so many. There is one church, built in imitation of St. 
Peter's, at Rome, called the Cathedral of our Lady of Kajan, 
and named after a picture of the Madonna which it contains, 
covered with jewels, one of them of almost inestimable value, 
brought from Kajan to Moscow by Ivan Vassilievitch and 
from there here by Peter the Great. The shrines of this 
church are also very rich — blazing with jewels, but it is not 
very rich in marbles. In front of the screen is a railing or 
rather balustrade of silver, and all the columns had gilt ped- 
estals. The walls are hung with military trophies, flags from 
all parts of the world, and keys of conquered cities. 

The lower order of Russians are as filthy and unattractive 
in appearance as possible — they wear immense long coats belted 
in round the waist and I have seen them holding the skirts 
up and showing a sort of petticoat underneath. They wear 
a very strange hat like a very low beaver and flaring very much 
at the top. The Czar is at PeterhofT at present, his summer 
palace, not far from the city. 

Hotel d'Angleterre, 
St. Petersburg, Sept. 1st, 1870. 

Mother and I have spent the evening looking out the win- 
dow at the sunset on one side and the moon rise on the other, the 
great church of St. Isaac looming up immediately before us. 
The great bronze angels with extended wings stood out finely 
against the red sky. 

I would like to go to rest to-night but I had to go to bed 
last night with neuralgia in my face and so neglected to do 
any writing. 

Day before yesterday we spent mostly in the Hermitage, 
an immense building reconstructed from the old one built by 
Catherine II next to the winter palace as a place of retire- 
ment from the cares of state. Here she held conversazione in 
the society of artists and literary men who were obliged to 
conform strictly to a set of rules. Among others they 
were not permitted to speak of anything which took place at 

138 



SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

these meetings — must leave their rank outside — and to be gay 
without being noisy. The building is now used as a National 
Museum for painting, statuary and gems, coins, &c. 

The entrance is very imposing — the portico upheld by 
giant figures in gray granite — a staircase of three flights of 
marble steps and a gallery runs round the top ornamented 
by statuary. Many of the halls are ornamented in Pom- 
peian style and overflow with tables and ornaments of mala- 
chite and lapis lazuli. The collection of paintings is remark- 
ably fine, there is not a single picture in it that is not valu- 
able — it is rich in Murillos, Guidos and Rubens, Van Dycks 
and Rembrandts, but I have not time to go into details. 

From this place we took a rowboat and crossed the Neva 
to the island, to see the original hut of Peter the Great. It 
is a curious little place with one continuous window all 
round it and a second house has been built over it as a sort 
of cover. One portion of it is kept as a shrine and here we 
found service going on. A child was being baptized I believe, 
and its lips were touched to a book the priest held. Here 
we saw the little boat Peter built and the chair in which he 
used to study his plans for St. Petersburg, and a little foot- 
stool on which he used to sit outside his door. Then we went 
to the church of Peter and Paul, where all the sovereigns of 
Russia are buried. Of course we were interested in looking 
at those of Peter and Catherine II. The tombs are all alike, 
box-like in shape, of pure white marble with a heavy gold 
cross reposing on the top. This church, like all others here, 
is magnificently gilded and full of jewels. 

Further on we came to a little boat-house just large 
enough to hold the second boat built by Peter, which was the 
origin of the Russian navy. The attendant gave me a piece 
of an old flag conquered from the Persians and at the church 
I was allowed to take a flower from a votive offering on the 
tomb of the Czar Nicholas — shall put it in my album among 
my other treasures. 

Wednesday we spent at one of the Czar's summer pal- 

139 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

aces, Peterhoff, twenty miles from St. Petersburg. We went 
out by boat, as it lies on the sea, and then took a carriage 
and spent most of the day in driving through the vast park 
and stopping at the different points. In addition to the Pal- 
ace itself almost every emperor has built some sort of a pleas- 
ure house in the grounds, that is a house without bedrooms, 
arranged to accommodate the court, whenever they happen 
to want to lunch or write letters on their little excursions. 

One of them was on an island to which we were pulled 
over by ropes. It was a perfect little gem of a place, built in 
imitation of a Pompeian villa, with a court and fountain in 
the centre and the rooms built around it — these latter were 
filled with beautiful vases, bronzes and statuary and thous- 
ands of elegant little knick-knacks. It seems as if they ought 
to be very happy with everything in the world to make them 
so. Quite a contrast to this was the odd old-fashioned lit- 
tle palace called Mon Plaisir, built by Peter the Great for 
himself, with its low ceilings and stiff uncomfortable looking 
furniture. In this house we saw the bed where he died, exactly 
in the condition in which it was left, and the kitchen in which 
the Empress Elizabeth used to amuse herself by cooking her 
own dinner sometimes. 

The large palace is very plain in its outside appearance, but 
has a very attractive interior. It is decidedly the finest pal- 
ace I ever saw. In one room the walls are made of paintings 
representing the costumes of the fifty different provinces of 
Russia, very interesting. In others they are one mass of gilt, 
the ceiling as well. All are furnished with the richest materials 
and in every possible color, and one or two entirely in the richest 
Chinese goods; one room especially was striking, having been 
furnished by Catherine II, who was a very luxurious person. 

I often wonder what they do with all their possessions — they 

certainly don't have time to rightly enjoy them. In front 

of the palace are the great fountains thought to rival those 

of Versailles, and in my opinion they far exceed them. The 

cascades are all interspersed with gilded statues and under- 

140 



SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

neath the sheet of falling water the stone is also gilded so that 
it shines through the water, giving it a far more brilliant ap- 
pearance than the ordinary style. 

In the evening we went to the great Theatre, where Patti 
has had her triumphs, to see the Russian ballet. On the way 
up the Grand Duke Nicolai passed us in his carriage and hon- 
ored us by turning round to look after us. The ballet was 
called the Magic Horse and was splendidly put upon the stage. 
Some of the scenery was beautiful as fairyland, introducing 
real fountains illuminated with different colors. One scene 
represented the bottom of the ocean, with perfectly natural 
whales swimming about — the crawfish and oysters joined in a 
dance with the sea nymphs, very amusing, and at the same 
time very wonderful. During the ballet all the Russian cos- 
tumes were introduced, Tartars and Circassians, and the 
Russian national dance was performed. In the audience was 
a Circassian officer of high rank in full regimentals — it is a 
very distingue costume. We went with our Irish friends and 
we filled two boxes. 

The next day we went to hear service at the Convent of 
Alexander Neoskoi, where they have the finest singing in St. 
Petersburg. It is a very large establishment containing a fine 
church and a very rich shrine called the shrine of Alexander 
Neoskoi, one mass of solid silver in rich designs weighing over 
3250 lbs. of pure metal. The monks stood in a semi-circle 
and chanted. Their singing is very effective, though they 
are not allowed to use any organ or other musical instru- 
ments, but their voices are so heavy and rich that one don't 
mind their absence. It is almost impossible to tell the nuns 
from the monks, their dress being exactly the same, — of 
course when the monks have beards there is no difficulty. 

That same day we went to look at furs and I found a muff 
I liked very well for 66 dollars, but the best quality were from 
250 to 400 rubles or 175 dollars to 280. We put off buying 
until we come back from Moscow. 



141 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Moscow, Sept. 4th, 1870. 

We left St. Petersburg day before yesterday in the after- 
noon. In the morning we went to the School of Mines, where 
we saw models of all the mines in Siberia and a collection of 
Siberian minerals. Such quantities of gems and great pieces 
of gold and silver as we saw — specimens of malachite and 
lapis lazuli, amethysts and amber, with all sorts of insects 
imbedded in it, and there was one piece of beryl, a golden 
brown color, about ten inches long and four inches thick worth 
over 2000 dollars, and then there were all kinds of gems. We 
afterwards went to see the state carriages, a gorgeous array, 
I should think fully fifty in number, all of them gilded the 
entire surface and some painted in beautiful flowers. Most 
of the gayest ones belonged to Catherine II, who always 
had her own portrait on them, and then we saw the covered 
sledge Peter built for himself and used to travel in, the panes 
of the windows were about two inches square and made of 
isinglass. There is to be a court procession in a few days when 
these carriages will be used. They drive eight horses for each 
carriage and they and the footmen are dressed to correspond. 
The horses' headpieces alone were so heavy I could hardly 
lift them and I don't see how the horses can carry their har- 
ness and a postilion besides. 

At half past two we left St. Petersburg — did not take a 
sleeping car thinking we would run less risk of being devoured 
by insects if we sat up all night, but when we arrived in Mos- 
cow, after a twenty hours' ride we were so used up that we 
shall take the sleeping car in future at all risks. The railroad 
was built by Winans & Co. of Baltimore and is a remarkably 
fine one. I never on any road have seen such large and 
commodious stations. Up to half-past twelve we got out to 
eat at four different buffets to kill time. They were al- 
ways crowded with people drinking tea in the Russian fash- 
ion, that is, out of a tall glass, mixed with sugar and a slice 
of lemon. We find it very good and prefer it to tea with milk 

when taken alone. 

142 



SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

We were horrified to find the women smoking in the cars, 
as well as the men, even those who had all the appearances 
of ladies. The fleas were something awful — everything seems 
to be alive with them — even in an apparently clean room, 
the carpet will be full of them, and as they poison me 
dreadfully you can imagine in what a state of discomfort I am. 

I send this off* just as it is for I cannot put any more into 
one envelope. You will find the continuation in another en- 
velope. 

M. D. R. 

Monday morning, 
Moscow, Sept. 5th, 1870. 

Saturday afternoon, although we were half dead with fa- 
tigue, we went out for an hour or two. All the sights of Moscow 
with the exception of two or three monasteries and views, are 
contained within the Kremlin, a place in the heart of the city, 
surrounded by a high wall and situated somewhat higher than 
the rest of the city. This is one mass of churches, palaces 
and towers, blazing with gilt and brilliant coloring. 

The Czar had come down the day before so we were un- 
able to gain admittance to the churches or to the palace. 
However we found the Tower of Ivan the Terrible open and 
passing into it through the Holy Gate we ascended. The Holy 
Gate is so called from the miraculous picture of the Redeemer, 
which hangs over it, and all persons passing under it are ob- 
liged to remove their hats, no class being free from the condi- 
tion, not even the Emperor himself. It is a strange sight to 
stand there a while and watch the different classes of people 
passing under it. The drostky drivers going through at full 
speed With reins in one hand pull off their hats with the other 
and cross themselves. 

At the foot of the tower is the great bell of Moscow, called 
Tzar Rolokol, King of bells. It was cast in the reign of Em- 
press Anne and is 67 feet in circumference. Since then it 
fell down and has been placed in its present situation at the 

143 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

foot of the tower. Among the forty bells now hanging in 
the tower there is one which is larger than any other bell 
in the world, and the others are graduated down from this 
to two small silver bells. The effect of them all rung to- 
gether must be very fine. While we were standing in the 
courtyard of the palace one of the smaller bells was ringing 
and we all thought it was the most magnificent toned bell 
we ever heard, the tone was so deep and rich, and it seems to 
harmonize with everything. 

From the tower we went to the House of the Holy Synod, 
where we were shown the robes of the Metropolitans of Mos- 
cow, all of them embroidered with jewels, one of them 
weighed forty-five pounds and was completely covered with 
pearls and cameos, emeralds, rubies &c. They showed us 
also a case full of jeweled mitres, equal in richness to royal 
crowns. But the most interesting sight to us was the vase in 
which the original holy oil, the same with which Mary Mag- 
dalen anointed the feet of the Saviour according to the tra- 
ditions of the Greek church, was brought from Jerusalem, 
and also the silver vessels used in the making of the holy oil. 
This holy oil or Mir, is made once a year in this house, the 
whole process attended with great secrecy, and all the vessels 
used in the process are of solid silver or gold. It is sancti- 
fied with a few drops of the original oil and it is with this 
that every child in Russia is baptized. The bishops come from 
all parts of Russia to Moscow at a certain time of the year 
to obtain their share. 

The next morning early we took a carriage and went out 
to the parade ground to see the Czar drill some cavalry. 
We could not get near enough to see much of the practice 
though we saw them rush forward swinging their swords on 
each side of the horse, and then we had to rush for dear life 
to see the Czar for as soon as the drill was finished he was 
driven away as rapidly as possible, but fortunately we man- 
aged to drive up just as he came along. He was in an ordi- 
nary open carriage drawn by two fine black horses and with- 

144 



SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

out any footmen. His son Vladimir sat beside him and both 
were wrapped in military grey cloaks. 

We followed on as far as the gate of the summer palace 
and then drove for a while in the park which surrounds it. 
All this took place on Sunday, which they do not seem to 
distinguish from any other day and yet they are a very devout 
people for all that. They never pass a church or picture of 
Christ and Madonna but they stop to cross themselves and 
say a prayer and as those things occur at every step it keeps 
them pretty busy. 

The Russians are the dirtiest people in existence and 
equally ignorant and superstitious, though it is not to be won- 
dered at when you consider how long they have been enslaved. 
There is nothing prepossessing about their personal appear- 
ance, their countenances are stupid and treacherous look- 
ing, but the higher classes seem like a different race from the 
peasantry. They are quite distinguished looking and fash- 
ionably dressed, but the greatest eaters I ever saw. 

Sunday afternoon we went into the different churches of 
the Kremlin, the oldest and most interesting of which is the 
Church of the Assumption, built with five gilded domes, sup- 
ported on the inside of the church by four huge frescoed pil- 
lars. It is here that the coronation of the Czars has taken 
place since the time of Ivan the Terrible, and it is considered 
the most sacred church in Russia and is full of tombs of the 
great dignitaries of the church and state. In one corner St. 
Philip, who publicly rebuked Ivan the Terrible for his in- 
iquities, is buried. There is the wooden throne in which the 
Czars previous to Peter the Great used to stand to hear mass. 

All Russian churches are very much alike, so I will not say 
anything of the churches of the Archangel Michael and of the 
Annunciation. The most unique church in all Moscow is just 
outside the Holy Gate and is called St. Basil the Beatified. 
It is built with eleven domes, each one of a different color and 
shape, one of them I remember looked exactly like a pine- 
apple, and the church inside consists of eleven chapels under 

io 145 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

these domes. There is a tradition that John the Terrible, at 
whose order the church was built, had the eyes of the Italian 
architect put out that he might never build another like it. 

Just at sunset we drove out of the city past the Empress's 
villa to the Sparrow Hills, a fine eminence, from which we 
obtained the finest possible view of Moscow and I venture 
to say there is nothing to surpass it in the world. It was from 
this side that Napoleon approached the city and when his 
troops caught their first glimpse of the beautiful city, they 
pushed on invigorated by the sight and shouting Moscow! 
Moscow ! 

We had an opportunity of hearing the peasants sing, and 
I never heard anything so funny in my life. A lot of young 
girls stood in a circle, holding each others hands and walk- 
ing slowly around. One girl would sing a sort of solo without 
any words in a way that reminded me of the way old people 
sing who have lost their voices, and then all the others would 
join in and as they always sang in a minor key the effect was 
the strangest possible. 

St. Petersburg, Sep. 7th. 

We had had some intention of going from Moscow to the 
Fair of Nijni-Novgorod. A very celebrated Fair has been held 
there for ages. People came to it from all parts of the world, 
and it was one of the great centres of trade, but of course it 
cannot last long after railroads bring the different parts of 
the country into communication. Here the Tartars and the 
Persians, the Laplanders and the Chinese all bring their goods. 
But we finally concluded not to go, as we should have had to 
ride two nights in succession without sleeping cars and we 
thought that it would hardly pay. We would have been al- 
most to China then, and I am almost sorry we did not go. 
Our waiters at the hotel were Tartars and they look very 
much like the Chinese. 

Monday morning we went out and bought some Russia 

sable skins to make me a muff, and in the afternoon started 

146 



SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA 

for St. Petersburg. We took a sleeping car but were nearly 
eaten up alive by the fleas. As soon as we reached St. Peters- 
burg we obtained entrance to the Winter Palace, which we 
had not been able to see before. It was undergoing repairs 
and so all the curtains and cornices were down. We were 
not permitted to see the Emperor's or Empress's rooms, but 
were admitted to those of the empress's mother, the daughters 
and the children's rooms, the ball-room and others, also 
to the very plain room where the Emperor Nicholas died, and 
the clothes which he last wore are lying on the bed. 

This palace and that of the Kremlin at Moscow, which we 
did not enter as the Czar was there, are the most magnificent 
palaces in all Europe, and it is of no use for me to attempt to 
describe them. I wish I could give you a faint idea of the 
crown jewels of Russia. Of course we saw the great Orloff 
diamond, which is set in the royal sceptre. It is almost spher- 
ical and at least an inch in diameter. As for the King's 
Crown, it is one solid mass of diamonds so that nothing else 
is visible, and round the base of it is a chain of solitaires each 
one of great size. 

Then the Empress's necklaces are something wonderful. 
One of them in diamonds was all of solitaires, the pendants 
being larger. You never saw such diamonds in your life. 
There were sets of diamond trimmings for the Empress's 
dresses, some were in Greek patterns and others in more 
fancy patterns, and a string of huge solitaire diamonds for a 
belt and besides all these there were sets upon sets of pearls, 
emeralds and rubies. After seeing such jewels as those one 
would never care to buy what one sees in shops. The chil- 
dren will be interested in knowing that the Czar's children 
have a play-house in their suite of apartments, fitted up ex- 
actly like a house and beautifully furnished. I went all 
through it but I had to stoop a deal to get into it. 

I have never seen any city I liked better then St. Peters- 
burg. The public buildings are very imposing, the shops 
magnificent, the streets wide and well paved and always 

147 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

crowded with people, while the great number of officers in the 
streets gives it an attractive appearance. The funniest sight 
was to see mother and me in a drostky. I think I have de- 
scribed them to you before. They drive them at headlong 
speed and when they dash round the corners it is something 
frightful. The seats are none too large for one, so people 
always ride with their arms around each other's waists. At 
first we didn't like them at all, but in a few days we got to 
be really fond of them. 







EN ROUTE 

Vienna, Sep. nth, 1870. 

We left St. Petersburg at noon of the eighth and after 
a dreadful ride of thirty hours through very uninteresting 
country we reached Warsaw in Poland where we spent the 
night of the 10th. We would have liked to see more of 
Warsaw — it was such a beautiful looking city, but we were 
anxious to get news from home so pushed on to this city, 
which we reached early this morning. A fifty-four hours' ride 
is beginning to tell on us, and besides we have been out all 
day shopping, as we have arrived here in a needy state. It is 
a beautiful city and seems to be very fashionable. 

We went in to Vesper service at St. Stephens, a mag- 
nificent Gothic cathedral something like the Milan church in 
elaborate carving. All the aristocrats live in the old portion 
of the city, the centre of it, and what was the old wall of the 
city is laid out as a garden. Vienna is such a lively, jolly sort 
of a place we should like to spend several weeks here and enjoy 
ourselves, for they say the people of this place enjoy life more 
than the inhabitants of any other city in Europe. 



Munich, Sep. 15th, 1870. 

Thursday night. 

I was sick all day Sunday in Vienna and so father and 

mother stayed at home and didn't see anything, and though 

I was quite miserable Monday morning we took a carriage 

and drove all round the city. We all remarked the clean, 

149 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

neat appearance of the people, they all seemed well-to-do, 
quite different from the Russians in that respect. We drove 
past the Royal Palace, a large mass of buildings with an open 
space in front. The streets pass right under it and through its 
middle court. We did not care to enter, though we could not 
have done so as the Empress was at home, but as for me I am 
sick and tired of palaces and don't care ever to enter another. 

In the afternoon we drove out to Schonbrunn, the favor- 
ite summer residence of the royal family. On our way out 
we passed the new Opera House, now the finest in Europe. 
Schonbrunn, built by Maria Theresa, is beautifully situated 
at the foot of a high eminence, the side of which behind the 
palace is laid out as a Park and at the very top is a sort of 
Temple called Glorietta, from which may be obtained the 
finest view of Vienna possible. The Park is laid out very 
much like that of Versailles. 

They say that the Palace of Versailles is used as a hospital 
now. It seems a great sacrilege. 

When we came back into town it was quite late but we 
profited by the remaining light to see the Church of the 
Capucines. In the vaults under this church the bodies of the 
royal family of Austria have been deposited for centuries. 
Conspicuous in the centre is the sarcophagus of Maria The- 
resa and her husband Francis and they say she visited this 
tomb, for thirteen years after his death, every day. Their son 
Joseph 2nd and the favorite ruler of Austria lies at their feet. 
Marie Louise, the second wife of Napoleon, and the young 
King of Rome, are also buried here, and Maximilian, who 
was shot in Mexico, the Arch Duke Charles and many others. 

The next morning our first visit was to the church of 
the Augustines to see the tomb of the Archduchess Chris- 
tine, designed by Canova. His own tomb in Venice is a copy 
of this one. I remember writing you about it last winter and 
that certainly made a greater impression on me than this one, 
though it might have been owing to the time and place. Here 
the hearts of the royal family are placed in silver urns in a 

150 



EN ROUTE 

small cell into which you look through an iron grating. In 
one of the chapels are the tombs of the celebrated Gen. Daun 
and Van Swieten, the physician of Maria Theresa and of Leo- 
pold second. 

From this church we went to the treasury, a part of the 
Museum connected with the Royal Palace. This is indeed 
a magnificent collection of valuable articles of every kind, 
gold and silver plate, carved ivory work, &c. Here we saw 
the Crown jewels, the three large crowns of Austria, Bo- 
hemia and Hungary, which I think as fine as the crown of 
Russia; then there were sets of rubies and diamonds and emer- 
alds and diamonds and some fine pearls, but after the lavish 
display of jewels I saw in Russia they failed to make the im- 
pression upon me that they might have done otherwise. 
Among the historically interesting curiosities was the regalia 
of Charlemagne, taken from his tomb at Aix-la-Chapelle and 
the silver cradle presented to the young king Of Rome by the 
people of Paris. 

In the Imperial Library which is a large and splendidly 
ornamented room, we saw a rare collection of illuminated 
manuscripts and rare editions of old works — the original 
manuscript of Torquato Tasso's Jerusalem Delivered. We 
found a visit to the Royal Riding School very interesting. 
The servants were riding the most beautiful Arabian horses 
I ever saw. Such beautiful creatures as they were. One of 
the men made his horse dance for us and walk sideways, &c, 
all without saying a word. 

After spending some little time shopping, during which we 
met the Greeleys who have just come down from Dresden, we 
went to the Royal Picture Gallery called the Belvedere. It is 
the second in Germany in size and quality. I was particularly 
pleased with some of the modern paintings by German Artists. 
Of the old masters I liked best a Madonna and Child of Van 
Dyke and his Christ on the Cross, and a Madonna and Child 
by Carlo Dolce and the head of the Mater Dolorosa by the 
same, and the Ecce Homo of Titian. 

151 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

In the evening we went to the Folks-garten to hear the 
celebrated Strauss band play. Strauss's son led the band and 
he entered into the spirit of the music so that it seemed as if 
he were about to whirl off into a dance every moment. I 
never heard such music in my life. I think it would almost 
make a dead person dance. 

Yesterday morning we left Vienna and were obliged to stay 
over night at Salzburg, a lovely spot in among the mountains. 
The Hotel was large and delightful with a splendid view from 
the windows and a fine garden around it. We walked out to 
Mozart's dwelling house. It had a harp on the outside and 
the sign "Mozarts Wohnhaus. " It was pouring rain and that 
with the sound of the river which runs directly through the 
hotel I could almost be convinced I was near Niagara. 

Geneva, Sep. 19th, 1870. 

It is over a week since we left Munich to make a hurried 
tour through Switzerland. I did not find Munich a very 
interesting city outside of the picture gallery and the great 
statue. 

It took us two days to go through these galleries and we 
were well repaid for the labor. In these galleries are the cele- 
brated pictures of beggar children by Murillo, and we bought 
copies of two of them. There was one room filled with pic- 
tures by Adrian Van Der WerfT, which pleased me more than 
any collection I ever saw — they were so soft and beautifully 
finished. There are many gems of the old masters also, es- 
pecially of Carlo Dolce. A new Pinacothek contains the 'cele- 
brated Destruction of Jerusalem by Kaulbach and Schorus' 
picture of the Deluge, unfinished. 

We drove out to the colossal statue of Bavaria, designed by 
the great Schwanthaler. In standing below and looking up 
you don't get the faintest idea of its immense proportions. 
It is an immense female figure clothed in fur and at her side 
crouches the Bavarian lion. It will give you some idea of its 
size that seven of us sat down inside the head at one time. 

152 



EN ROUTE 

Some parts of the royal palace were very fine, especially the 
ball-room and the throne-room, the latter is decorated with 
colossal gold-bronze statues, representing the different Bava- 
rian princes and Charles 12th of Sweden. There is one court in 
this palace containing a grotto made of shells, very elaborate 
and beautiful, and in another part is a huge stone weighing 364 
pounds, which the Duke Christopher used to throw a great dis- 
tance — there were three marks on the wall to indicate the height 
to which the princes used to jump. Father insisted that he used 
to be able to go as high as the lowest one but on making a trial 
he was altogether unsuccessful. 

We met the Hoyles again in Munich and saw quite a 
good deal of them. The morning before we left I went to the 
cathedral to hear an extra service, it being a grand fete day. 
It was terribly rainy and no one would come with me, but I 
was fully repaid by the fine music. 

We visited the bronze factories and saw the whole operation 
of bronze casting, the amount of labor and patience required 
is something wonderful. They are at work on several fine 
monuments for America and Lincoln Monuments, one each 
for Michigan and Rhode Island. At the Arsenal we saw some 
of the "trophies of war" as they call the old clothes, canteens 
and other rubbish they have captured from the French. 
Among these trophies was a soldier's mattress all saturated 
with blood, a horrible sight. 

We left Munich the next Monday morning for Zurich by 
the way of Romanshorn. This town is beautifully situated 
on the lake of the same name with lovely views of the moun- 
tains in the distance. The next afternoon we three and Mr. 
Whitelaw and Charley Perry went by rail to Zug on Lake 
Zug and from there by steamboat to Arth with the intention 
of making the ascent of the Rhighi. 

Arth is a lovely little place and after a beautiful walk 
during sunset we returned to the hotel for our dinner, where 
we being the only guests the landlord had laid out his last 
penny to please us. We were quite surprised to have so nice 

153 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

a dinner in such a small hotel. The only drawback was the 
powerful odor of the stable which saluted us. In searching 
the next morning I was hardly surprised to find the stable situ- 
ated immediately under the room where we had taken our 
dinner. 

After a good night's sleep I rose refreshed and went into 
the village church while breakfast was being prepared and 
heard some very pretty choral music. At eight o'clock we 
were all mounted on horses pursuing the track up the Rhighi 
— it proved a very easy ascent interspersed with magnificent 
views of the Alps. The time passed so rapidly we were at 
the summit almost before we knew it. There is a large and 
stylish hotel there where we had a fine dinner, which rather 
detracts from the effect of the trip according to my notion, 
but the panorama from the summit of the Rhighi is certainly 
wonderful. Alps piled upon Alps nearly all of them tipped 
with snow and then the beautiful lakes lying immediately 
under our feet, a view not easily to be forgotten. 

It is a peculiarly-shaped mountain, rising perpendicularly 
from the lakes on one side and sloping back gradually on the 
other. On starting to descend the mountain the gentlemen 
started to walk and mother and I were to ride, but after a 
few steps father's legs gave out entirely and he took the horse 
while I went ahead with the gentlemen. We went so much 
faster than the horses that we soon were beyond them. We 
somehow missed them as they took the direct path to Kiiss- 
nacht and we went over in the direction of Immensee, to see 
the Chapel of William Tell. We were misdirected by little 
urchins of whom we asked the way and so wandered out of 
our way at least a mile and a half, making the descent and 
walking rapidly without resting. I can't attempt to give 
you any idea of the beauty of the sunset on the snow-capped 
mountains, as I saw it from half way down the Rhighi — every- 
thing one blaze of rosy red. 




ITALY 



Naples, Sep. 25th, 1870. 

Here I am way down in Southern Italy and have written 
you scarcely anything of our trip through Switzerland. We 
found the chapel of William Tell quite repaid us for the fatigue 
of our walk. A little stone building with a steep sloping roof, 
situated in a very secluded spot and covered with figures and 
inscriptions relative to Tell's prowess. A mile and a half 
more brought us into Kussnacht, where we found father and 
mother waiting for us. Of course I was dreadfully tired and 
so was mother for riding down a mountain on horseback is 
conducive to anything but comfort, though of course walk- 
ing fatigues the muscles more. 

We had a nice supper at the little hotel on the edge of 
Lake Lucerne which is the loveliest spot imaginable and early 
the next morning drove along the edge of the lake for two 
hours to Lucerne, stopped at the Schweizer Hof long enough 
to take our dinner and then took a carriage and drove along 
the Brunig Pass until nine o'clock. We often speak of that 
drive as being one of the pleasantest we have had. As it be- 
gan to grow dark we commenced the ascent of a mountain 
pass and we all got out and walked. 

The valley soon lay far below us and in the distance we could 
hear the village bells and then for the first time we heard the 
Alpine song. Some man was singing it way down in the valley 

155 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and we could hear as distinctly as if he were quite near us. 
Charley Perry can do it to perfection, so he often answers 
it and they will keep it up for sometime. It is very beauti- 
ful when heard at night and echoed from one mountain to 
another. We spent the night at Lungern a little town quite 
at the head of this valley, where we fared sumptuously and had 
a welcome night's rest after the walking we had done during 
the day. The next morning we went over the finest part of the 
pass to Brienz. 

In Switzerland one is constantly surprised at the unexpected 
changes in scenery. When you have been climbing a long 
time and have reached the top of a valley you naturally expect 
to go down on the other side, but instead, when you have 
made a few turns you suddenly find yourself quite at the foot 
of a new valley and you don't realize that you have made any 
ascent at all. 

At Brienz we took lunch and then crossed the lake of the 
same name to take a look at the falls of Giesbach. The falls 
in this country are such small aifairs that an American always 
experiences a feeling of disappointment. Giesbach tumbles 
from an immense height not in one fall but in a series of cas- 
cades, all small in themselves but very beautiful when you 
place yourself where you get the effect of the whole with all 
the cascades in view, with the numerous turns they make. 

About four o'clock we came into Interlaken, just in time 
to get the benefit of a fine sunset on the Jungfrau, which is 
to me the grandest of all the Swiss mountains from its posi- 
tion and inaccessibility, though not so terrible as Mt. Blanc. 
Interlaken is in a very small plain entirely surrounded by high 
mountains. The hotels are ranged in a line facing the Jungfrau 
which rises beyond a gorge between two dark mountains, which 
stand like sentinels on either side, completely covered from 
this point of view with pure white snow. It does not show 
its height at first view, but nothing in nature could be more 
magnificent than the effect of sunset upon it. The whole vast 
pile of snow was changed into rose color which gradually grew 
fainter and fainter and long after the other mountains were 

156 



ITALY 

clothed in comparative darkness the summit of Jungfrau was 
tinged with the rays of the setting sun. 

We stayed over one day at Interlaken to make the ex- 
cursion to the Griindelwald glacier. The next morning, there- 
fore, we were ofF at an early hour for the town of Griindelwald. 
On the way we met Mr. and Mrs. Rogers of Cleveland. They 
seemed delighted to meet us and we all got mules and made 
the ascent together. We went to what is called the Upper 
Glacier. It was very dirty and ugly I thought, and only en- 
joyed the Grotto. That is a long passage dug into the ice 
which is not dark inside for the light penetrates through the 
ice but the process changes it into a greenish blue, something 
the color of sea water, which made us all look more like corpses 
than anything else. 

On our way home we heard a solo on an Alpine horn played 
by a little boy who stands there day after day for that special 
purpose. The horn was at least two yards long of a curved 
shape and part of it lay on the ground. They say those who 
play rarely live long, it is ruinous to the health, but the effect 
is wonderfully beautiful, the tones are so powerful and yet so 
sweet and carried along from one mountain to another they 
come back to you again from the distance like an echo. They 
also fired a cannon for our benefit in front of the glacier and 
there was a remarkable echo. The blast was taken from the 
cannon by a mountain and hurled from that to another and 
so on until it travelled beyond the reach of our ears and was 
left to the imagination. 

Mr. Rogers is much thinner than he used to be — says he 
has walked all his flesh off in the mountains — a very easy 
thing to do. They came over in the evening to call on us and 
the next morning we wefnt by boat to Thun on Lake Thun, 
where we used the railroad again. We reached Berne the 
capital of Switzerland at noon and took a stroll through the 
town, went to the bear pit after which the town is named 
they say, and which I very much doubt, and concluding there 
was nothing to be seen there went on to Fribourg, which I 
will describe later. 

157 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Naples. 

There is a magnificent surf rolling in this morning after 
the late storms, but it has cheated me out of a trip to Capri 
and the blue grotto, which I was so anxious to see. We have 
been here four or five days and have been going over the same 
ground as last winter and some things in addition. Day be- 
fore yesterday we drove out to Pompeii and on the way back 
stopped at Herculaneum, which I had never seen before. It 
seemed to me more wonderful than Pompeii because it has 
to be seen in the dark, i. e. the Amphitheatre. Unlike Pompeii 
it was overwhelmed by liquid lava and is very difficult to 
excavate, so that they have only dug passages through in 
different places. 

Yesterday we made the excursion of Baiae, the favorite 
summer residence of the ancient Romans and went all over 
the classic ground of Cumse and Lake Avernus, Cape Micense 
and the Dead Sea, under which the ancient city of Micense 
lies buried. We couldn't get mother to enter the Grotto of 
the Cumsean Sibyl, though it seems the Queen of Prussia has 
done it. I entered for the first time the hot baths of Nero; 
they are dug in so near to a volcano that the heat is intense. 
We went through a narrow passage — had to walk with our 
heads down nearly to the ground in order to breathe, but sev- 
eral times, I was unable to, the air was so hot. We were not 
in more than five minutes but I was wet through with the 
heat and perspiration. We had a glorious ride home by 
the sea. In all my travels I have seen nothing equal to the 
beauty of the bay of Naples, that is for a sea view. It would 
be delightful to have a summer residence on the road be- 
tween Naples and Pozzuoli on the high land overlooking 
the bay. 

I must stop now as the omnibus is at the door to take us 
to the station for Rome. I will try to write soon again. 
In great haste, 

M. D. R. 



158 



ITALY 

Florence, Sep. 28, 1870. 
Dear Cliff, 

I sent off a letter to you several days ago from Rome and 
now we have come back again to Florence and are going to- 
morrow to Venice and from there over the Brenner Pass to 
Munich. It cannot be long now before we sail as we shall 
travel pretty rapidly up through Germany to Holland and 
Belgium and down to Brussels, where we shall be obliged to 
do our shopping unless an armistice* is declared and we can 
get down to Paris. We should like to be in Rome to see the 
entry of Victor Emmanuel. We had heard that it was to take 
place on the 27th of this month and had expected to be present, 
but it seems he don't want to act rashly and is going to wait for 
the full concurrence of the other European powers. I don't 
know whether I told you that the Pope, ever since the change 
in his affairs, has shut himself up in the Vatican and refuses to 
attend to any of his duties — a very naughty frame of mind for a 
man who has just proclaimed himself infallible to all the world. 

In making one of our excursions outside of Rome we passed 
by the place where the troops of the King effected their en- 
trance through a breach in the wall, on the 25th of Sept. Two 
or three of the city gates and the whole extent of wall between 
them are quite perforated with holes made by cannon balls, 
especially the Porta Pia, the gate named after the Pope him- 
self. The Italians seem all to be rejoiced in this movement 
against the Papal States and in Rome whenever the troops 
marched through the streets there were the wildest demonstra- 
tions of joy among the people. 

The Italian military music is something entirely different 
from anything I ever heard. The bands are composed entirely 
of bugles, all playing the air, and their marching is quite an 
exemplification of the old motto "every man for himself — the 
devil take the hindmost," not that they march out of order, 
but that they go so very fast. 

And now. I will take up my account of the Switzerland trip, 

* The Franco-Prussian War of 1870 was prevailing. 

159 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

which I left off at Fribourg. The finest toned organ in the world 
is there and a short concert is given every evening for the bene- 
fit of travellers. Unfortunately the train in which we wished 
to go to Lausanne was to leave in the middle of the concert and 
the celebrated storm piece is always played last, so that I had to 
have an interview with the organist to implore him to play that 
before we left, which he politely consented to do, though of 
course it must have spoiled the effect of his concert. It is of 
no use for me to try to describe. I don't think anybody could, 
but it seemed to me that the wonderful echoes he produced 
from that organ came nearer to realizing the "still small voice" 
coming out of the storm than anything else I can think of. 

At nine o'clock again we were off and were at Lausanne, 
or rather at Ouchy, a lovely village on Lake Geneva, at mid- 
night. Here we stopped two days to obtain the repose we 
needed so much, and in the meantime made the excursion 
of Lake Geneva. As everybody goes into raptures over it 
(generally those who haven't travelled very extensively) I 
will omit to do so. I flatter myself I ought to be something 
of a judge as I have now seen nearly all the lakes of Europe — 
all I believe with the exception of the two large lakes of 
Russia, Lake Ladoga and Lake Poipus, and they are all so 
entirely different that it is almost impossible to say which is 
the most beautiful. As far as I am concerned, Lake Como, 
take it all in all, pleases me more than any other. 

Geneva was very uninteresting but we had to stay there 
a day or two in order to get your watch, but finally we started 
off one fine morning for Chamounix. The diligence (which 
was our first) was a funny top-heavy affair with room for 25 
outside and for nobody inside, and the five of us, even with 
aid of two others, young gentlemen who were going the same 
way, made rather a poor show in the roomy vehicle. When 
we descended on ladders at noon to partake of some lunch 
there was the usual admiring crowd of male bystanders pres- 
ent on such occasions. The scenery became more grand at 

every turn as we approached Mt. Blanc and wound through 

160 



ITALY 

the narrow valley of the Chamounix between the towering 
mountains on either side clothed with dark green firs up to 
the line where vegetation ceases and beyond the eternal snows. 
We found the Fields and Jessops of New York and the 
Greeleys just returned from the trip across the Mer de Glace, 
which we were to take the next day, and they had been 
very much disappointed. That night I saw the finest sunset 




ON LAKE GENEVA 

I shall ever see in my life; the clouds rolled down on the sides 
of the Mt. Blanc chain and when the sun was almost down the 
clouds became a brilliant red and above all the brilliant white 
peaks towered up in splendid relief, while the summit of Mt. 
Blanc itself without a cloud, was a brilliant mass of red and 
then when the coloring had all faded away the new moon at- 
tended by one star appeared suddenly hanging over the highest 
peak of the mountain. 

II 161 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Venice, Oct. 30th, 1870. 

We arrived here late last evening, after a long and fatigu- 
ing journey from Florence. Do you know what is meant by 
asking if I have heard the Philadelphia news ? I suppose it 
must be that Frank is going to be married or something of 
that kind. Have you heard of anything to that effect? We 
leave to-morrow for Verona and shall soon be on our way 
home. 

Leaving Venice Monday afternoon we arrived at Verona 
in time for dinner. Here we were to stop all night in order to 
take the early morning train over the Tyrol. I met a young 
Italian with whom I was acquainted and he took us round in 
the evening to see as many of the sights as possible, to the 
town hall and the remnant of the old Palace of the Scaligers, 
the street of tombs some of which were of the most beauti- 
fully carved marble like a small Milan cathedral in minia- 
ture. We could only get an idea of the great Roman Amphi- 
theatre, the most perfectly preserved of all the Roman ruins, 
and last of all to the tomb of Romeo and Juliet in the garden 
of the old Capucin Convent. As we had to look at it by the 
light of a lamp it was on the whole rather a quixotic expedition. 

At five o'clock the next morning we were on our way 
towards the mountains and towards noon we arrived at snow. 
We were not half prepared for such cold weather and suffered 
very much in consequence. It was rather an extreme change 
from the heat of Naples in one week to a snow storm on the 
Tyrol. 

We formed the acquaintance of a young English clergyman 
who helped us to pass away the long hours. We expected 
to have gone through to Munich that night but on arriv- 
ing at Innsbruck found that the train would go no further 
than Kufstein, so on arriving there we left our baggage at 
the station and then proceeded to hunt up the Hotel de la 
Poste, which was considered the best the town could afford. 
We found it a regular German Gast-Haus full of noisy smok- 
ing beer drinking men all trying to see who could exceed the 

162 



ITALY 

other in making an uproar, and we were obliged to take some 
kind of German meat for our supper which was not very bad 
after all, and to sleep on feather beds, or rather between fea- 
ther beds, for there was one on top as well, so altogether we 
had rather a funny time of it. The Brenner Pass was a very 
grand one, but we were prevented in a great measure from 
seeing its beauties by the inclemency of the weather. The 
atmosphere being so thick with snow it was impossible to get 
an extended view. 

I want to finish the Switzerland trip to-day if possible so 
as to have nothing to do until I get to Dresden. How glad 
I shall be when I come to an end with all this writing, and yet 
I hardly feel willing to return so soon. The F's invited me 
to go with them to Egypt, but Father and Mother think that 
I am so very thin that I ought to go home and rest and de- 
vote myself to getting fat. 

We spent two days in Chamounix making an excursion 
each day. The first was that of Montanvert and the Mer de 
Glace, of which I had formed my ideas from a terrible descrip- 
tion by Miss Bremer, who must have been an exceedingly 
great coward. The reality was the tamest thing imaginable — 
all we did was to ride up to Montanvert on horseback and then 
cross the ice, where the passage was as easy as walking on 
land. There were crevices to be sure, but so very narrow that 
I stepped across them without the slightest sensation of ex- 
citement and of course I wouldn't give a snap for a trip of 
that kind without any excitement. 

The celebrated Mauvais Pas has an iron railing on each side, 
so that one couldn't possibly fall off unless one did so purposely 
for the sake of the experiment. I was sufficiently fatigued how- 
ever with the walk to be glad of a little rest at the Chapeau. 
I forgot to say that we were photographed in coming over the 
Mauvais Pas. There were three young gentlemen, two American 
and one English, at the hotel that evening and we had an anim- 
ated council in regard to a move for the next day. I had set my 

heart on the Grands Mulets, the next most difficult excursion 

163 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

after Mt. Blanc, but the trouble was to get any one to go along. 
Finally Charley Perry decided upon going and I induced 
Father without giving him any notion of what he had to go 
through. 

At six o'clock on the following morning we mounted our 
mules and started off, with two guides, down the valley. I 




CHAMOUNIX, FOOT OF MT. BLANC 

was well wrapped for it was very cold. I had put on all the 

flannels the family afforded. We commenced the ascent by 

following the bed of a torrent then dry and after a delightful 

ride of two hours and a half through glorious pine forests and 

along raging mountain torrents we finally reached the line 

of vegetation and soon after the Chalet of Pierre Pointue. 

Glad enough were we to dismount from our mules, for we were 

quite numb from sitting so long, in addition to the sharpness 

164 



ITALY 

of the autumn air at that elevation, six thousand feet above 
the level of the sea. 

The. proprietor of the Chalet we had encountered in the 
village and he returned with us and set himself hard at work 
to get us something to eat. There was not a sign of fire 
about the house, but by means of putting our feet into the 
stove we managed to get them warm, and as to the rest 
we had to trust to cloaks. We had to sit for some time 
without our boots while the guides put some heavy nails 
into the soles of them, then we took the apology for breakfast 
with which they furnished us and having each been provided 
with a leather belt and goggles we went upon our winding way. 

We first climbed along a zigzag path for about two thou- 
sand feet and then came a very difficult portion of the way 
which the guides told us was the most difficult portion of the 
entire ascent of Mt. Blanc. There was great danger of ava- 
lanches at one point and although the footing was scarcely 
two inches wide, we were obliged to run along as fast as pos- 
sible, holding on to the edge of the cliff. As I had just reached 
a point where a small waterfall came dashing down over the 
rocks the guide shouted for me to go faster and I was obliged 
to dash right through the water, but as I don't remember 
being wet afterwards, I suppose I went through so rapidly 
there was no time for such a thing. After this experience was 
over we were on the glacier des Bossons, and I wish I was 
adequate to a description of the wonders we saw, and the 
perils we braved. 

As we commenced the upward journey a strange pros- 
pect loomed up before us, tall needles of ice of immense 
height as we always found on approaching, though at a dis- 
tance they seemed quite inconsiderable, and at Chamounix 
they were indistinguishable. The greatest excitement, how- 
ever, was in surmounting the obstacles which presented 
themselves, for instance quite in the beginning we were ob- 
liged' to climb a wall of ice about seven feet high which in- 
clined toward us. It looked quite impassable but by dint of 

165 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

cutting footsteps at intervals they managed to haul us up by 
ropes, and then we came to a seemingly impassable inclined 
plane of ice, sloping at an angle of about 95 degrees. 

Here we were all tied together with ropes and then the 
guides going forward cut into the side of the precipice so that 
we could just find foot room, but generally for one foot only, 
we remaining in that graceful attitude until we could change. 
I think about that time I must have been a picture which would 
have delighted the eyes of a fastidious critic. With my dress 
well up to be out of the way and a huge leather belt which was 
not well adjusted, and a knotted rope dragging after me, some- 
thing after the manner of a Capucine, all this surmounted by 
a very small head well wrapped up in a blue comforter and 
ornamented with green goggles, and to cap the climax a huge 
thing which resembled the ruin of an umbrella fastened on 
to the top of my hat, to preserve my complexion, the guide 
said. It didn't answer that purpose, however, for it kept 
flapping about like a huge wing so that I finally put it 
back and then it looked like a caricature Aurora Borealis. 
In this guise I wormed over the glacier, but seriously there 
were places where after I had gotten over them myself I stood 
and held my breath while father crossed. At one time he 
stood on a piece of ice jutted over a fearful chasm and it was 
not over two or three inches thick. 

There were dozens of just such places where we were in 
danger of death every minute, but finally we emerged into an 
open space where we had nothing to contend with but the cold. 
We had reached the point where the snow never melts but lays 
in long prisms and we could not stand still one moment but our 
feet would freeze to the ice. The view was something inde- 
scribable, the mysteries of that terrible region lay before us. 
I can only leave that to the imagination. 

When we reached the top or rather Grands Mulets we took 

a lunch and then started down. The fatigue was terrible, but 

after any quantity of slips and tumbles we got over the 

glacier and came to the avalanches again. I think we saw five 

166 



ITALY 

or six during the trip. Charley Perry just escaped being 
killed — we heard a crash above us and jumped aside in- 
stinctively and in the very place where he had been stand- 
ing an immense fragment of rock came dashing down at a 
fearful speed. When we got beyond this danger we amused 
ourselves by detaching fragments of rock and dashing them 
down the precipice to see them fly into a thousand pieces as 
they disappeared into a fearful abyss. 

Reaching the chalet again we found to our amazement 
that the mules had gone back to Chamounix. We were in a 
dreadful state, had to walk all the way to the village. Father 
gave out completely and had to have a mule sent back to him 
from Chamounix, but I staggered on with Charley over narrow 
bridges through the beds of streams and two hours of dark and 
after having walked two hours of the hardest kind of climbing 
up hill and six hours on ice and three hours straight down, at 
nine o'clock I tottered into Chamounix, my last remnant of 
strength exhausted, but with the satisfaction of having suc- 
cessfully undergone one of the most exciting experiences one 
can have in Europe. All that night I woke at the slightest 
sound, imagining that I was fleeing from an avalanche. We 
stood around the fire at the hotel with tears of joy in our eyes 
that night when we thought of the great dangers we had been 
allowed to go through unharmed. 

Leaving Chamounix we came over the Tete Noire with 
mules to Martigny in nine hours and what with my expedi- 
tions of the two days before I was in perfect misery when I 
had not been on my mule more than two hours, so I tried get- 
ting down and walking, but I was so tired that I was forced 
to return to the mule, which was the most uncomfortable, 
animal I ever rode. At noon we met our American friend 
Mr. Tilney and took lunch together. During the afternoon 
we went through the finest part of the pass, following a narrow 
gorge in which were rocks as large as a house, which had fallen 
off from the sides of the mountains. 

We were high up above it all, the road winding along the 

167 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

edge of the precipice and completely shaded by great pine 
trees under which the rocky soil was covered with thick 
green moss and lovely ferns. Where the mountain cropped 
out it was black as ink, as it name signifies. In one place 
near, we passed through a tunnel and on coming out had 
a wonderful view. There was the valley far below us 
which had suddenly widened out in a circular form, and 




MARTIGNY 



in the centre was a miniature mountain rising from the valley 
like an island from the sea. Thankful enough we were to 
get to Martigny — so stiff we could hardly reach our rooms, 
however. 

We found the place besieged by a boys' school from Vevay 
making a short tour. They had taken possession of the 
table d'hote and we had to do the best we could. More 
than half of them were American and English boys, and 
they were so delighted they couldn't conceal any of it. Then 

168 



ITALY 

next morning there was a formidable array of mules on 
the open place in front of the hotel, provided for one-half 
of them, so they could take turns. I suppose all the little bits 
of fellows got on them and started off in great glee. I couldn't 
help feeling sorry for the poor little things left off here 
alone. That morning we took the rail to Lion and then the 
diligence to Brigue, where we arrived in time for an excellent 
dinner. We hadn't intended to open the trunk, but father 
in poking about the town had found an old shoe shop and 
thought he would have the nails taken out of his boots, and 
finding it was going to take more time than he expected sent 
back for his slippers and so we had to pull everything out and 
hunt after them. 

We were obliged to get up at five o'clock the next morn- 
ing in order to go by the Pass of the Simplon and to reach 
Arona that night. The ascent was all well enough and we 
had quite a gay time of it — there were four large diligences 
and several carriage loads. We reached the Hospice, or high- 
est point of the Pass, at about noon. 

This is an establishment somewhat similar to that of the 
St. Bernard, where monks reside and entertain strangers. 
There were also some St. Bernard dogs, which are all tan 
colored instead of black, as I supposed. They have fine, in- 
telligent faces, though not as handsome in appearance as I 
had expected. After leaving this we descended rapidly and 
the dust became intolerable, but the scenery was so grand 
that it was worth any amount of inconvenience. We came 
through the finest gorge I ever saw and which fully came up 
to my idea of gorges in general. We passed through what 
must have been rents in the rock, where the smooth bare 
rock rose on each side perpendicularly to the height of at 
least two thousand feet. 

Arriving at Domo d'Ossola we were once more in Italy — 

here we made a short stop, and then going on soon struck 

Lake Maggiore, but did not arrive at Arona until twelve 

o'clock at night. However we were lighted along our way 

169 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

by the full moon and it was very charming, notwithstanding 
the fatigue. 

The next morning we went up to Isola Bella, where is 
the Duke Borromeo's country seat. His gardens are the 
finest I ever saw, and must have taken an immense amount 
of labor. The solid rock has been cut into terraces and then 
covered with soil and planted with the rarest flowers and 




LUGANO, SWITZERLAND 



shrubs. The palace contains some fine works of art and el- 
egant tables and vases, &c. We had got down into a warm 
climate where all the people spent their time out of doors. 
It was certainly amusing to active Americans to watch them 
lolling about doing nothing or else performing their duties in 
the most listless, dragging way. 

We got on to Luino by boat, a town at the head of the lake, 
and a delightful drive of three hours through the moonlight 

brought us over to Lake Lugano where we spent the night. 

170 



ITALY 

The next morning we took a stroll through the town and 
bought a pair of little peasant girls' shoes in the market for 
Lolly to see. We had front rooms at the hotel looking out 
upon the Lake as beautiful a view as possible, combining all 
the elements of beauty with some of grandeur. An hour's 
ride on the Lake the next morning and two more in a diligence 
brought us to Lake Como, at the town of Menaggio, and from 
this place we took the boat down to Como going over the same 
ground I went over with Gen. Fiske last spring, and which I 
described to you. The second sight of Lake Como, with all 
my lake experience since I had last seen it, left me with an 
even more favorable impression in regard to its beauty. 
Omnibuses were in waiting to take us to Camerlata, and at 
nine o'clock I was once more in Milan. It seemed almost 
like going home. 




ENGLAND 



London, Dec. 5th, 1870. 

We left Brussels early Thursday morning and in one hour 
were landed at Antwerp. I had expected that we were to 
spend several hours in that city before taking the London 
steamer, but found to my disappointment that I had no more 
than one hour. So as soon as our things were put on board we 
started off to the Cathedral to see the celebrated "Elevation 
to and Descent from the Cross" by Rubens. With our usual 
luck the man whose business it was to show these pictures 
obstinately refused to be persuaded into showing them to us 
until within five minutes of the time when the boat was to 
start. Consequently we sauntered round the town during the 
intervening half-hour hunting out interesting relics of the old 
Dutch architecture, old Spanish houses, &c, and although 
the cold was very penetrating and disagreeable I was so much 
interested in the funny crooked old streets and the quaint 
old architecture that we were soon back at the Cathedral 
where we regarded the wonderful pictures and made the two 
minutes' walk all within five minutes. 

As a general thing I don't like Rubens but in these sacred 

pictures he has certainly shown extraordinary talent. He has 

depicted the two different expressions in the face of the live 

suffering Christ and that of the dead one, with wonderful skill. 

In one of the side aisles I found a head of Christ by Leonardo 

172 



ENGLAND 

da Vinci, simply a bearded face without any support, some 
thing like the one in Berlin by Correggio. 

In driving to the boat we passed through the market place 
and saw the old market writers in their ridiculous costumes, 
an immense bonnet of straw with a high crown rising up nearly 
a foot above it, and two great lace lappets hanging out at 
either side of the face, and in addition to this headpiece I saw 




THE ROYAL PALACE, BRUSSELS 

some who had thrown the old-fashioned calash-like hood, at- 
tached to a long black cloth cloak they all wear, over the bon- 
net. The effect was preposterous. 

It was so cold as we went down the river from Antwerp that 
we were obliged to stay down in the cabin. I went up to see 
the sunset which was something like our Mississippi river sun- 
sets, but I soon found myself getting seasick. We all had to 
get into our berths by seven o'clock, the channel became so 

173 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

very rough, and were as sick as possible for the five hours 
until we got into the Thames. I look forward with utter 
horror to Saturday next when we shall embark on board the 
Russia. Eleven days will seem an eternity. Mr. Whitelaw 
called yesterday with young Glasgow and Carson. They are 
all going on the Russia. We are stopping at an old-fashioned 
house far down on the Strand near the new Victoria embank- 
ment, where we can see the boats running to and fro on the 
Thames, but it is a very dreary prospect, much better at night 
when the streets and bridges are lighted with gas. 

Went last night to hear the Messe Solenelle of Rossini. 
The cast was as great as it is possible to hear. I certainly 
never expect to hear as great a one again. Titiens, Sims 
Reeves, Alboni. It was the only appearance of Alboni for 
many years. I was prepared to be disappointed because she 
is quite too old now to sing, but she sang magnificently in 
"Qui Tollis," the duet with Titiens. The chorus was so finely 
trained that no one person could have rendered a song with 
more expression and the effect of the last chorus in unison 
with the "Agnus dei" of Alboni, fairly made the cold chills 
come over me. Every time she sang the Miserere notes in her 
magnificent chest tones the audience just groaned with sym- 
pathy. And when she left the stage she was recalled twice, 
and the people all rose to their feet, applauding in the 
English fashion, and calling out Ho! Ho! altogether it was 
very exciting. 

Liverpool, Dec. 9th, 1870. 
We left London at ten this morning, arrived at the Adelphi 
at four, found it full of Americans going on the Russia 
to-morrow. The country between here and London is covered 
with snow and it seems quite as wintry as America at this 
season of the year. Mother and I expect to be sick all the way 
over and look forward with perfect dread to the next eleven 
days. ■ 



174 



ENGLAND 

Liverpool, Dec. 9th, 1870. 
We are all laughing very much at the conversation of a 
gentleman named Moore, who has lived in Paris in some 
official capacity. He has just shown us a newspaper which 
is being published at present in Paris. It comes out regularly 
by balloon, is about eight inches square.* He says there was 
never a place where a man is so downtrodden as New York. 
They hold our noses to the grind-stone and keep them there 
while they grind and the blood flies, and we cry beautiful ! 

On board, Dec. 10th, 1870. 
We were all drummed up early this morning and after a 
good hot breakfast came down to the tender, where we were 
fairly crammed, packed like sheep, there being some two 
hundred and thirty or more passengers. All the faces are 
quite familiar — we having met most of them at one time or 
another while travelling. Gen. Burnside and wife are on 
board, Gen. Hazen and quite a number of distinguished 
people. I never saw such a nice set of people together. They 
are all down getting the trunks into the staterooms and I 
seize the opportunity to add a few last words, for I know I 
shall not get out of the river even without being sick. I can't 
realize that I am at last really on my way home. 

* Paris was besieged by the Germans and shut off from the outside world. 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1892 



12 



INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1892 



On board S. S. City of 

New York June 15, 1892 181 

Earl and Countess Meath June 16, 1892 181 
Concert, Salvini, Clemen- 
tine De Vere and Pow- 
ers sing June 20, 1892 183 

Liverpool June 23, 1892 184 

The Adelphi Hotel June 23, 1892 184 

Chester June 23, 1892 184 

Grosvenor Hotel, Chester June 23, 1892 185 
Cathedral and old walls, 

Chester June 23, 1892 185 

Excursion to Duke of 

Westminster's Palace, 

Eaton Hall June 24, 1892 186 

Leamington, Haddon Hall 

Warwick Castle June 24, 1892 186 

Stratford on Avon June 26, 1892 186 

Oxford June 26, 1892 186 

Entertained by Prof. Ger- 

rans June 26, 1892 187 

Magdalen College, Iffley, 

beauties of the Colleges June 26, 1892 187 

Daylight 'till 10 P. M June 26, 1892 187 

London June 26, 1892 187 

Entertained by Mactears June 29, 1892 188 
Henry Irving in Henry 

8th June 29, 1892 188 

Buffalo Bill's Show June 29, 1892 189 

Siegfried at the Opera July 5, 1892 190 

Hampton Court July 2, 1892 190 

"Venice" and Salviati, 

Glass makers July 2, 1892 191 

The Brunswick and Met- 

ropole Hotels July 3, 1892 191 

Foundling Hospital July 3, 1892 191 

Score of Handel's Messiahjuly 3,1892 191 
Windsor Castle by Coach, 

60 mile drive July 3,1892 192 

London Tower July 3, 1892 193 

Christy's Auction and its 

wonders July 5, 1892 194 

Lost Letter of Credit 

found July 3, 1892 

Isle of Jersey, St. Heliers July 14, 1892 198 
Isle of Wight, Shanklin, 

Newport, Cowes July 14, 1892 198 

Guernsey, Victor Hugo's 

house July 14, 1892 199 

Sark July 14, 1892 199 

Dinard July 16, 1892 201 

St. Malo, Dinard July 17, 1892 202 

Mont St. Michel July 17, 1892 202 

Wonders of St. Michel. . .July 20, 1892 203 
Madame Poulard's and 

Omelettes July 20, 1892 203 



Trouville and Caen, 

Bayeax July 20, 

Dives, Inn of Guillaume 

le Conquerant July 24, 

Le Mans, home of Queen 

Berengaria July 24, 

Chenonceaux and Am- 

boise July 24, 

Lunch at the "Bon La- 

boureur July 24, 

Chapel of St. Hubert. . . July 24, 
The Emersons of Boston 

and the funny poetry. July 24, 

Blois .* July 27, 

Vendome, Tours and the 

Rochambeau Chateau July 27, 
Grand Hotel de Blois. . . July 27, 

Blois and Chambord July 27, 

Vendome July 27, 

Paris July 29, 

Eiffel Tower July 29, 

Dinner on the Tower. . . July 29, 
Visit to the Marquise de 

Rochambeau July 29, 

Charms of the Chateau July 29, 

Interesting dinner July 29, 

Cave Dwellings July 29, 

Chartres July 29, 

Cathedral of Chartres . . July 29, 

Hombourg Aug. 6, 

Strasbourg Aug. 6, 

Kurgarten Hombourg. . . . Aug. 6, 

Prince of Wales Aug. 9, 

Dowager Empress of 

Germany Aug. 9, 

Nuremburg Aug. 22, 

Bayreuth Aug. 22, 

Wagner's Grave Aug. 22, 

Parsifal Aug. 22, 

Duchess of Edinborough Aug. 22, 
Hotel Tyrol, Innsbruck Aug. 25, 

St. Moritz Aug. 29, 

Coire Aug. 29, 

Sairgno Aug. 29, 

Julier Pass Aug. 29, 

Pontresina Aug. 29, 

Roseg and Morteratsch Aug. 29, 

Milan Sept. 3 , 

Lake Como Sept. 3 , 

Lucerne Sept. 3, 

Lausanne Sept. 3, 

Zermatt Sept. 3, 

Chiavenna Sept. 3, 

Bellano Sept. 3, 

Hotel Metropole, Milan. .Sept. 3, 

Via Pasquirolo Sept. 3, 

179 



1892 


206 


1892 


208 


1892 


209 


1892 


210 


1892 


210 


1892 


2IO 


1892 


211 


1892 


213 


1892 


213 


1892 


213 


1892 


213 


1892 


214 


1892 


215 


1892 


215 


1892 


21S 


1892 


215 


1892 


216 


1892 


216 


1892 


217 


1892 


219 


1892 


219 


1892 


220 


1892 


220 


1892 


220 


1892 


222 


1892 


222 


1892 


225 


1892 


225 


1892 


227 


1892 


227 


1892 


227 


1802 


228 


1892 


23O 


1892 


230 


1892 


23O 


I8Q2 


23O 


1892 


23O 


1892 


231 


1892 


233 


1892 


233 


1892 


233 


1892 


233 


1892 


233 


1892 


234 


1892 


234 


1892 


234 


1892 


234 



INDEX 



Santa Maria delle Grazie Sept. 

San Gothard Pass Sept. 

Lucerne Sept. 

Lausanne Sept. 

Zermatt Sept. 

Ouchy Sept. 

Villeneuve Sept. 

Visp Sept. 

Fete day at Visp Sept. 

Geneva Sept. 

Paris ;.......". .Sept. 

Cholera Sept. 

Normandy Hotel, Paris. .Sept; 



3> 


1892 


234 


4, 


1892 


23.5 


■ 5, 


1892 


235 


■>» 


1892 


235 


8, 


1892 


236 


8, 


1892 


236 


8, 


1S92 


236 


8. 


1892 


236 


8i 


1892 


237 


II, 


1892 


238 


15, 


1892 


239 


15, 


1892 


239 


15, 


1892 


239 



Mourge, Opera, Sa- 

lammbo Sept.22, 

Luxembourg Sept.22, 

Hippodrome Sept. 15, 

Visit to Alfred Durand, 

Versailles Sept.19, 

Palace of Versailles Sept.19, 

St. Germain Sept.19, 

Pavilion Henry IV .Sept.19, 

London Sept.22, 

Sailing from Liverpool 

on the "Citv of New 

York" ' Sept.28, 



1893 243 

1892 242 

1892 239 

1892 241 

1892 241 

1892 240 

1892 241 

1892 242 



1892 




EN ROUTE 

S. S. City of New York, 
Wed. Eve., June 15th, 1892. 
Dear Frank, 

I sent a few words by the pilot this morning and at Sandy 
Hook the boat stopped and a little row boat came along side 
first one and then another of the three big ships and took the 
mail. Cliff" and I both went down to lunch and dinner. So 
far there is nothing to remind us that we are not on the Sound, 
except an occasional lurch. While I am not really seasick I 
don't feel as I do on land. 

Aboard S. S. City of New York. 

June 1 6th, 9 P. M. 1892. 

Another day is past and we are still on our feet. The weather 
has been ideal and there is scarcely any motion. We slept well 
last night and found our staterooms well ventilated. 

We have been on deck all day but I don't do any reading. 

The man we thought was Talmadge is Rev. Mr. Satterlee of 
New York. The J. Bertram Lippincotts had letters of intro- 
duction to him. We have found out the Earl and Countess of 
Meath are at the same table with the Cuylers. We have not 
yet discovered T. B. Aldrich, the famous author. 

We went to our meals but I can't say I enjoyed them and 

depend on roast beef principally. I walk around the ship 

five or six times a day. I found my long Russian coat just the 

thing. No champagne as yet. We got some claret which will 

last us several days, to color the water. Good night. 

181 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Friday, 17th, 1892. 

Another perfect day has passed and we are doing splendidly; 
I have been to our three meals and had plenty of conversa- 
tion. At half past nine the ship is beginning to roll pretty badly. 
I tried to read to-day but couldn't. Up to yesterday noon we 
had gone 457 miles and up to noon to-day, 460. 

A nice English woman, a Mrs. Barclay, has been travelling 
with the Earl and Countess of Meath, and we see a good deal 
of her. I walk around the boat every hour or two to keep up 
my circulation, and ate a big dinner to-night. They say we 
will get to Queenstown Tuesday afternoon and to Liverpool 
Wednesday morning. There is certainly more motion and I 
rather dread the night, so good-bye, 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

Saturday eve., June 18th, 1892. 

Here we are at the end of the 4th day and the weather has 
changed very much. The ship has rolled fearfully every day and 
yet we have taken our three meals in the saloon and there seem 
to be few sick people. I am so amazed at myself I don't know 
what to do. We had great fun at dinner, holding on to the table 
and eating between times. To-morrow the Captain will conduct 
the morning service and Talmadge is to preach in the evening. 

It turned suddenly cold this afternoon so that we thought it 
must be owing to the presence of icebergs, and they were tak- 
ing the temperature of the water. Clementine de Vere is on 
board with her husband Mr. Sapio, also Powers the baritone. 
I cannot read at all, so do nothing but talk and watch people. 
It seems a long time until Tuesday, but the worst is over. So 
many people are going to get off at Queenstown, we shall miss 
them. Good night. 

Monday, June 20th, 1892. 

Yesterday the ship rolled so that both of us were quite un- 
comfortable. Rev. Mr. Satterlee preached in the evening and 
the Captain read the morning service. Clementine de Vere 
sang magnificently up in the organ loft, also Francis Fisher 

Powers, but I could only hear a little from the gallery. The 

182 



EN ROUTE 

Irish lawyer got up some sports, which took up all this after- 
noon and were quite amusing. 

To-night there is to be a concert in aid of the shipwrecked 
sailors and all the distinguished singers take part. Salvini 
will recite and De Vere and Powers sing, and the Mendelssohn 
Club. It will be very fine. 

We only made 442 miles up to noon to-day and don't ex- 
pect to get to Queenstown until late to-morrow evening and 
if we don't get over the bar at Liverpool before 9 a. m. on 
Wednesday I don't know how long we will be. We are still 
rolling a good deal and I don't know if I will be able to stay 
in the saloon long enough for the concert. 

12 M. Tuesday, June 21st, 1892. 

Our last day we hope, although we are not yet in sight of 
land. All who are going off are packing. The weather is per- 
fect, but there is enough rolling to make me dread going be- 
low to pack. 

We had the most delightful concert last night and we all 
enjoyed it thoroughly. Salvini recited first a short Italian piece 
and then the Star Spangled Banner. It was a fine tribute to 
America in the face of so many English. A Mr. Coleman, of 
New York gave a supper afterwards to Clementine de Vere 
and her husband, Mr. Sapio (who must be a fine composer, 
judging from the songs of his composition she sang), and to the 
English lady, Mrs. Barclay. They all sit together at table. 
Dr. Satterlee was talking with the Earl, and I noticed as he 
looked down and listened, that there was quite a resemblance 
to you. I have enjoyed the ship's company very much but 
cannot feel as if I were on dry land. I have never seen so 
many nice-looking people on a ship, so many big handsome men. 

I wish every day you could be with me and cannot feel 
reconciled. I am like another person and am so much stronger 
and feel more lively and toned up mentally and physically. 
I hope now, Mr. and Mrs. Bert Lippincott will be with us at 
Leamington and Oxford. 

Looking forward to letters, 

Your loving, M. D. R. 

183 






ENGLAND 

Thursday, June 23rd, 1892. 

Dear Papa: 

I am writing this letter on the train from Chester to Leam- 
ington. The fast express it is, and we are alone in a first class 
compartment. We landed yesterday at Liverpool at one o'clock 
and went through the customs all right under the direction of a 
"Cook Tourist" man. Mother's trunk was found after some 
hunting in the compartment. We had a very good lunch at 
the Adelphi, where they know how to charge. 

We took the four o'clock train to Chester, a distance of 16 
miles, and engaged a carriage immediately and drove around the 
town. Dined at the Grosvenor Arms. This morning drove out 
to the Duke of Westminster's place. I could not describe it, 
it would take too long; however we saw a flock of over 200 wild 
deer. The deer park surrounds the house within a radius of 
half a mile. The place is 12 miles long by 8 wide and con- 
tains several villages. The deer are pretty tame, except when 
they smell a gun. 

We telegraphed for rooms at Leamington, as there is an 
agricultural fair going on there. The weather to-day is cold. 
Yesterday warm with showers in evening. Chester is a quaint 
old place. 

Yours, C. 



184 



ENGLAND 

Grosvenor Hotel, Chester, 

June 23rd, 1892. 

Dear Frank: 

Although dead tired I cannot resist giving you an account 
of our first day on land. We didn't get to bed last night until 
very late, as we had all our packing to do, having spent the 
afternoon in admiring the Irish coast and the evening in seeing 
the people off at Queenstown. This morning we dressed up 
and stored our steamer trunk with the Inman people, had our 
breakfast and hung around until one o'clock before we got 
off on the tug. When we got into the Custom House my trunk 
was not to be found among the R's, where it should have been, 
but one of the Cook's men got it for me among the B's. 

Then we took a cab with the English lady and drove to 
Inman's office and changed our stateroom, as we found 154 
a little too far forward, to a nice large one. We found we had 
to fee every one on the ship and I have not yet put down our 
expenses — they have been something fearful to-day. After 
that we went with Mrs. Barclay to the Midland Railway and 
left her and then to the Adelphi Hotel. We had the most de- 
licious lunch, then took a cab and went to the Ferry and 
across the Mersey to the Great Western and took a way train 
here. 

Cliff and I took a small carriage and drove all round the 
walls and castle and cathedral. I have never seen anything so 
interesting as the wonderful cathedral and the old Roman 
walls. Caesar's Tower, King Edgar's palace and old houses 
dating from 962, the river Dee outside the walls and the ivy 
covered walls. We all had table d'hote dinner and then we 
took a walk around the top of the walls. 

I have written Mr. Gerrans that I expect to be in Oxford 
over Sunday, as Mr. Wells requested, stopping here and hav- 
ing one day longer on ship than I expected, will set me back 
a little. When we come over again you must come here. 
There is a howling mob outside over some political excite- 
ment. Good-night and good-bye. 

Your affectionate wife, M. D. R. 

185 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Leamington, England 
Friday, June 24th, 1892. 

Dear Frank: 

I have so much to tell my courage gives out at the begin- 
ning. Outside there is a beautiful garden and I wish you were 
here with us. I believe I wrote you up to the morning we went 
to Eaton Hall, the Duke of Westminster's house. We had an 
early breakfast, and while the carriages were being made 
ready, we went over the the Chester Cathedral and saw the 
interior. It was the most interesting I ever saw, the wonder- 
ful wood carvings like lace and miniature cathedrals, which 
hung as canopies over the chairs where the Monks used to sit, 
were beyond description. It was impossible to realize that the 
church had stood there over a thousand years. It would take 
hours to describe all I saw, so I will not try. 

We took a carriage with Mrs. Haines and her son and 
daughter (she is Dr. Tom Wistar's sister), and drove out 
to Eaton Hall which was a fine place with magnificent gardens, 
but I wasn't much impressed with the outward appearance of 
the house. The best were the beautiful views of the Welsh 
Mountains in the distance, and the perfect atmosphere and 
lovely trees and flowers. I saw the daisies growing in the grass 
wild, like our cultivated ones. 

After a nice lunch at the hotel, we took the train and came 
here at five o'clock yesterday. 

Oxford, Sunday, June 26th, 1892. 

Friday morning Cliff and I went by coach to Stratford. 
The coach put up at the Red Horse and we did all the sights, 
having from one to four o'clock to do them in. Stratford is 
quite a city now, otherwise the sights are the same as when 
I was here in 1870. The best part was the lovely drive. 

We took the 9.57 train from Leamington Saturday morn- 
ing and came here to the Randolph Hotel. I immediately sent 
a note to Mr. Gerrans saying we would be in until after lunch, 

and Mrs. Gerrans appeared at once, as they only live around 

186 



ENGLAND 

the corner. They gave us some assistance as to sight seeing 
during the afternoon and invited us to tea to-night. Cliff and 
I took a carriage and went the rounds of the more important 
colleges. They were so interesting, especially the gardens and 
chapels, that I went far beyond my strength and to-day could 
hardly crawl about. 

At seven the Gerrans came and he is a very interesting, 
jolly man, not seeming at all English. He seemed to be amused 
with me, so we became good friends at once. She is a Canadian 
but not so full of life as he is. They had asked some people 
for tea to-night and then asked us to breakfast at half past 
eight and we went afterwards to Magdalen college to hear the 
service, but got there just too late, so I only saw the gardens, 
and then we drove out to Iffley and saw the old mill and the 
Norman Church, and a lovely English village. 

I can't take time to describe the beauties of the colleges; 
the fine carvings in wood and stone, the interesting portraits 
and old bits of walls and gate ways and the magnificent parks 
with deer, etc. We went to afternoon service at Christ Church 
Cathedral and heard a most beautiful choir, and Dr. Lloyd 
at the organ. Much to my surprise the service was very Low 
Church and all the reading and chanting very distinct. 

We then went to Gerrans' to tea and had a very nice meal of 
cold lamb and veal pie, salads and preserves, etc., and met an 
Oxford Professor of Roman law (a German) Prof. Griiber and 
wife, a Professor Brown, of New York, who lectures on theol- 
ogy, and a Mr. Elliott, who knew Mr. Wells when here. They 
think I ought to stay longer, but I am anxious to get to London 
to-morrow to get our first letters and find out what you are 
all doing at home. 

Mr. Gerrans is to take us to see his rooms at Worcester col- 
lege, and we shall take the eleven o'clock train to London. My 
feet are so swollen with fatigue that I shall need a day's rest. 
Clifford is getting to understand the baggage business very well 
and the money also. We walked home to-night after nine o'clock 
in bright daylight, and it is not dark when I go to bed at ten. 

187 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

I would like to stay here a week, there is so much I must 
leave undone. We have had such wonderful weather for Eng- 
land, clear and delightfully cool. Yesterday it rained a few 
drops, so I was surprised to find it clear this morning. This 
hotel has an elevator and bath room, wonderful for England. 
Tell Fanny she would revel in gooseberries here, as they serve 
them as compote and tart, etc. 

With my best love, 

Your affectionate, M. D. R. 

London, June 29, 1892. 

Dear Frank: 

We sent our cards to Mactears and they appeared at once, 
but we were out, and Mr. M. came back for the third time at 
seven last eve. We went to see Henry VIII at Irving's Theatre. 




THE MARBLE ARCH, HYDE PARK, LONDON 

It was magnificent, but so dear. Everything of that kind is 
much dearer than in America. Mr. Mactear came and took 
us out this morning, then we went to his house at noon, and 
went with Mrs. M. and daughter to the Coaching Parade in 
Hyde Park, but lots of people have gone away, and there 
were very few distinguished people. 

We went back and had a very elegant lunch beautifully 
served, champagne and other wines, etc. Yesterday was so 



ENGLAND 

warm, and at the theatre really uncomfortable but to-day 
is so cold I can't get warm. We went to the Army and Navy 
stores yesterday morning and bought stockings and a small 
trunk for me and a large Gladstone bag for Cliff to travel on 
the continent, and took lunch there. 

At half past six we are going to meet the Mactears to dine 
at some club and go to Buffalo Bill's show. The David Bis- 
phams have called to-day while we were out. To-morrow we 
shall do two picture galleries and Cliff will go to the Tower 
and I must get a waterproof. 

London, Wednesday, June 29th, 1892. 

Dear Papa: 

We had a fine time at the show last night which was out 
at a new exhibition grounds in Kensington. We dined at a 
little private club there, of which Mr. Mactear is a member. 
The whole grounds were brilliantly illuminated. Mr. Mactear 
is very nice. 

We found Richardson's grave in Westminster Abbey and 
mother is having a photograph taken of it. The streets here 
are all paved with wood and I think are very fine even if a 
little slippery. 

We are going to hear Mr. David Bispham sing in Siegfried 
on July 5th and after that we will soon leave London. 

London, Thursday morning, June 30th, 1892. 

We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Mactear and daughter at a 
private club house in a great garden where they have exhibi- 
tions and where Buffalo Bill is now performing, and went to 
the show afterwards. There was a cunning little club house 
which was illuminated on the outside with little green glass 
cups and all the gardens were illuminated the same way with 
millions of lights all through the trees. I have never seen any 
thing like it. 

I said to Mr. M. that we hadn't heard from him and he 
said he had been away ever since he returned from America 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and had waited to get the Mexican photographs to send you. 
He certainly is most attentive and insists upon our lunching 
with him at the Savoy to-day. They speak about dining there 
informally and going to a Kiralfy show called Venice, after- 
wards on Friday, but I don't feel very enthusiastic about it. 

London is the most expensive place I ever saw. This is 
only a medium class hotel, I consider, and yet we pay 6 shillings 
($1.50) for our dinner and pay extra for our dessert; and six 
shillings for an omelette, coffee and bread for two. The noise 
is almost unendurable and I think seriously to-day of changing 
to the Metropole if we can get in. I tried to send a cablegram 
yesterday and they refused to send any word not in the dic- 
tionary, so all your inventions are for nothing. I shall be glad 
to get away from London as it is too fatiguing for me. 

To-day is beautiful and sunny and I hope to accomplish 
a good deal in the way of sightseeing. Here people have their 
houses just as in winter, all their draperies up and carpets 
down and live as in winter. I expect to leave here on Thursday, 
7th July; have taken tickets for Siegfried at Bayreuth. 
Hoping there is nothing the matter, 

Yours as ever, M. D. R. 

Saturday, July 2, 1892. 
To the Assembled Family: 

The Mactears have been very nice. We have been there 
twice to dinner, once to lunch, twice out at hotels to lunch, 
twice in the evenings to Buffalo Bill's Wild West, and Venice 
by Kiralfy. A Mrs. Barclay on the ship gave us her Army and 
Navy store ticket. We bought a good deal there. 

Give my love to all. C. 

London, Friday, July 2, 1892. 
Dear Papa: 

We have removed to the Metropole and find it much nicer 
only the food is not quite so good. Mother went this morning 

on a coach to Windsor. We went out to Hampton Court 

190 



ENGLAND 

yesterday and, of course, struck the day the house was closed, 
but walked around the grounds, which are very beautiful. 
We went into the "maze" and got to the centre but could not 
get out again. 

We went to "Venice" last night. It is a production of 
Imre Kiralfy's and is somewhat like the Fall of Babylon, etc. 
There was an enormous aquarium in front of the stage on 
which there were gondolas. There was nearly a whole square 
of houses built on canals, also lots of bridges. For a sixpence 
a gondola takes you all through the town in ten minutes. The 
stores were filled with beautiful Venetian mosaics, etc., for 
sale. I believe the show has been here all winter. We saw a 
lot of Salviati's men making Venetian glass. One of them 
made a big dragon vase in about ten minutes. It was in dif- 
ferent colored glasses. There is some secret process and there 
are only two manufactories in the world. They, of course, 
have branches all over, but are under the control of two men. 
Apprentices are taken who are sworn to secrecy. 

J. C. R. 

Hotel Metropole 
London, July 3rd, 1892. 
Dear Aunt Mary: 

We moved here from a small hotel called the Brunswick, 
in Jermyn St., on Friday, and at last I have a moment to write. 
I went to the Foundling Hospital this morning alone, for when 
I went to Clifford's room after ten o'clock, I couldn 't get him 
up, he was so tired, so I took a hansom and went alone. I 
found it very interesting, but the music didn't come up to my 
expectations. I saw the score of Handel's Messiah there, pre- 
sented by the composer, and his statue stands on the street 
wall. 4 

We are going to leave London Thursday for the Isle of 

Wight, after a ten days' stay here. The soot and cinders are 

most disagreeable to me, and keep my throat in a constant state 

of irritation, so I shall be glad to get away from the smoke. 

191 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We have been extremely fortunate in having bright, sunny 
weather all the time, sometimes very cold, or else very hot. 
They have more sudden changes than we have. I understand 
now why English women wear furs in summer. 

Yesterday morning I had planned to go shopping in the 
morning, and to St. Paul's in the afternoon, but after break- 
fast I met Mr. and Mrs. J, B. Lippincott and they were just 
about to get on the coach to go to Windsor, and I suddenly 




determined to go if I could get a seat, and I was fortunate 
enough to get the best seat on the coach. I sat on the box 
beside the driver, who was a gentleman, and we had a delight- 
ful drive through Hampton Court and along the Thames. 
I saw quantities of house boats; they are shaped like canal 
boats, have awnings on top, and are regular floating flower 
gardens, and the decks furnished like drawing rooms. We 
had a delightful table d'hote lunch and then went up to the 
castle. 

I can't imagine anything finer; the view from the Terrace 

192 



ENGLAND 

over Eton and the magnificent masonry, I shall never forget. 
As Queen Victoria was in residence, we were only admitted to 
St. George's chapel and the terrace. We bought strawberries 
and roses on the way and really had an ideal time. You can 
imagine I was pretty well tired out after a sixty mile drive. 
We had four relays of horses. 

No one could be more attentive than Mr. Mactear. I 
have lunched there and at the Savoy with them and dined 
there and at the Club, and went to Buffalo Bill's and to Venice 
with them afterwards; and yesterday while I was at Windsor, 
he went with Cliff to the Tower. Kiralfy's Venice is one of the 
most wonderful of shows. It is on the order of the Fall of 
Babylon, but under cover, and they have gondolas 
and gondoliers from Venice. During and after the show 
you go into a perfect imitation of Venice; real canals bordered 
with brightly illuminated shops with Italian names, and cafes, 
and groups of men singing Venetian songs, and gondolas 
going and coming in every direction, and people crossing the 
bridges. To add to the illusion we heard more Italian and 
French than English; and we went into a shop and saw the 
man manufacture the real Salviati glass, and it was a most 
interesting sight though the heat was frightful. 

I never saw such gardens and such stone carvings, or heard 
such church music as at Oxford, and shall never forget them. 
I am going with Mrs. David Bispham to the German Opera 
at Drury Lane Wednesday night. We went to Hampton 
Court Friday afternoon and returned just in time to dine with 
Mactears and go to Venice that evening, so you can imagine 
me pretty tired to-day after two days of solid work. 

I have had to wear my fawn colored Guerin dress every- 
where because we always go somewhere after dinner, but hope 
to wear my dinner dress to the opera. We went to Henry the 
VIII with Irving and Terry and found it wonderfully fine. 
I am really too busy to indulge in homesickness. I am try- 
ing to remember everything I see and talk about it when I 
get home. AfrTyv M. D. R. 

13 193 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

London, July 5th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

I was glad to get your letter late last night. Mr. Mactear 
was saying you ought to have a little place where you could 
set up for yourself as an expert and make a name for yourself. 
He seems to have a high opinion of your abilities as a chemist. 

I found silver quite as dear as at home and did not see 
anything astonishing, was disappointed with Liberty's dis- 




HENLEY REGATTA 



play and at the great china shop where all the Royalties deal 

I found very elegant sets but nothing buyable. We loitered 

along and looked at shop windows, and finally went to Christy's, 

the auction place, and saw treasures of Limoges enamel and 

carved ivory, miniatures, etc. and it breaks my heart not to 

avail myself of such a chance, but I find the things I marked 

will not be sold until after Thursday, and we must get away 

from here. 

How I wish you were here and what a good time we could 

194 



ENGLAND 

have together! Mrs. Barclay kindly asked us to go to the 
Henley regatta. I couldn't go on account of having accepted 
for the Opera, but Clifford is going with her. To-day we are 
going to the Bank to draw enough money to take us to St. 
Malo. I find the newest and best route to Guernsey is from 
Weymouth, only four and a half hours, but the difficulty is 
to get to Weymouth from Southampton. 

It has turned very much colder over night and looks a 
little threatening for the Regatta. I saw no trace of any Fourth 
of July celebration, but it happened to be election day here 
and throngs were screaming in the streets last night. I must 
try to at least walk through the South Kensington Museum 
to-day. 

Do you ever go to the Yacht Club? The great Eton and 
Harrow cricket match comes off at Lords Friday and Saturday 
and there we should see all the swells, but I don't feel inclined 
to wait for it somehow. Aff., M. D. R. 

Dear Mr. Rosengarten: 

I return herewith your father's photograph. He looks 
quite provokingly young, just as ever he did, as if the twenty- 
three years which have passed since last I saw him, at Tubingen 
had left no mark whatever on him; well I spitefully hope that 
he may at least have a few grey hairs on his head. 

I was so sorry to have missed your mother; please remember 
me to her, and I hope, if time permits, that I may see you both 
on your return. 

Faithfully yours, 
1 2th July, '92. Rudolph Messel. 

Note. — Messel was a chemical student at Tubingen when I studied 
there under Professor Adolph Strecker in 1869-70. F. H. R. 




THE CHANNEL ISLANDS 

Isle of Jersey, July 12th, 1892. 
Dear Papa: 

Poor mother was very sick coming across the channel, 
while I was not. We were in separate cabins so I could do 
nothing for her. We drove all over the Isle of Wight in a coach. 





MONT ORGUEIL, CASTLE GOREY, JERSEY 

The towns are just like Newport, hilly, with well paved, mac- 
adamized streets and small asphalt pavements. The houses 
have small gardens in front and the streets are the same width. 
We expect to get to St. Malo in a couple of days. Mother 

will be glad to get off the ocean. Love to all, C. 

196 



THE CHANNEL ISLANDS 

July 14th, 1892. 

Isle of Jersey. 
Dear Grandpa: 

To-day they celebrate in France, the taking of the Bastille. 
We took a long coaching trip here to-day with an excursion. 
There were some sixty people. We saw some fine caves, one 
of which was four miles long. I don't know whether the pic- 
ture of "Jedge" Richardson in Westminster has turned up 
yet or not. I have seen some splendid cows here and at Guern- 
sey and still they have bad butter. 

We will get to St. Malo to-morrow and then on to Mont 
St. Michel where, according to a novel mother has read they 
have good omelettes. They have some fine conger fishing 
here and I have seen some very big ones. The scenery in all 
these islands resembles that of Newport and Jamestown. The 




SEIGNEURIE LANE, GUERNSEY 



same granite coast and hills rising above them covered with 
grass and blackberry bushes. I hope Aunt Laura is all right 
now. 

Love to all, Cliff. 



197 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

St. Heliers, 

Isle of Jersey, July 14, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

We left Shanklin, Isle of Wight, in a coach with our baggage 
behind us, Monday morning and had the most exquisite drive, 
taking our lunch at Black Gang Chine and passing through 
Bonchurch and Ventnor, and then Carisbrook, where there is 
a magnificent old castle, one of the finest specimens in exist- 




CORBIERE LIGHTHOUSE, JERSEY 

ence. There was a stronghold there in the Saxon time before 
the Roman occupation, and a castle ever since. There the 
coach dropped us and we took an omnibus for Newport, a 
mile distant, and ten minutes by train brought us to Cowes, 
connecting with steamer for Southampton, where we arrived 
in time for a late supper. 

We went immediately to the boat for this place and were 
just in time to get the last berth in the ladies' cabin for me and 
the last in the other for Cliff. We each took a dose of bromide, 
hoping to avoid sickness. The ships are new and very well 



THE CHANNEL ISLANDS 

furnished with electric light. They wanted £2 extra for a 
private cabin, so I went in with the polloi. I went sound 
asleep at ten o'clock but the people coming in at midnight 
woke me up and the boat started and I didn't get asleep until 
after I had been terribly seasick and was exhausted. 

We arrived at Guernsey at six and walked up to the old 
Government House Hotel which has a beautiful garden and 
view over the bay. I was so perfectly worn out I went to bed 
until lunch; then in the afternoon we took a carriage and drove 




CREUX HARBOR, SARK 

to Victor Hugo's house and were admitted to all the rooms, 
altho his grandchildren had just come for the summer. 

Then we went to one of the bays. The grand rocky coast 
is wonderfully fine and the country roads so picturesque with 
high hedges. We had a good night's rest which we sadly needed 
and took the steamer to Sark yesterday for the day. 

I haven't time to describe the wonderful feats of walking 
and climbing into caves, the terrible chasms, the ideal 
loveliness of Sark and the primitiveness and loneliness. I 
would like to go there sometime to stay. We had to get up 
very early to take the same Southampton boat and arrived 

199 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

here at eight o'clock, took a coach at eleven and have been 
driving until five this P. M. 

To-morrow morning we go on to St. Malo and will cable. 
We have not yet heard of the arrival of our Queenstown letters 
but hope to get a large mail to-morrow at St. Malo. These 
Islands are crowded with travellers and boats also. I expected 
to find them much less populated. 

Love to all, 
Yours aff., M. D. R. 




FRANCE 



Dinard, July 16, 1892. 
Dear Papa: 

We are staying at the Hotel de Casino at Dinard. I get 
along well in my French and can understand all that is said 
to me and make everyone understand me. St. Malo is an 
ugly little walled town where the tide rises and falls eighteen 
feet and in the early spring, forty feet. I received a letter 
from Dr. Messel returning the photo of you I had sent him. 
I enclose the note. It was the amateur picture taken at 
Island Heights. 

Most of the people in the hotel are English and Americans. 
The hotel is right on the water front of a fine beach and the 
Casino faces us. Mother left her keys in the custom house 
when our baggage was examined and I had to go all the way 
back to St. Malo for them. I jabbered French, however, and 
got them all back. Mother is down at the Casino taking a 
warm bath. They have the funniest banks over here I ever 
saw. Everyone was away for dinner when we arrived, and 
we had to go and hunt them up. 

I saw a peasant woman making lace and it was very in- 
teresting. The St. Johns fire must have been an awful thing. 
We heard a good deal about it in England. 

Love to all, 

Cliff, not Cliffy. 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Mont St. Michel, France, 

July 17th, 1892. 
Dear Papa: 

We arrived here this morning and had lunch. We are 
staying at Madame Poulard's, which is described in "Three 
Normandy Inns " which Uncle Joe lent mother. We had some 
splendid omelette and roast chicken. Mont St. Michel is a 
high rock surrounded entirely with flat sand. The tide comes 
in in a couple of minutes over the miles of sand. It is just 
like a great flat plain. Mother sends her love. 

C. 

Mont St. Michel, July 17th, 1892. 
Dear Laura: 

I wrote Thursday night to Frank, describing everything 
up to that date. We had a perfectly smooth ride of three 
hours to St. Malo. Our first day on French soil was a picnic. 
I wished to spend only a few hours at St. Malo seeing the town, 
and to go to spend the night at Dinard, a French watering 
place across the bay. The tides are so peculiar that you take 
the boat one hour at one place and another hour miles away. 
So after going through the Custom House when I forgot my 
keys, we had to drive all the way to St. Servant and sent all 
the luggage over to Dinard without any receipt or anything 
to show for it, and as soon as I had done it I was scared stiff. 

We then went to the bankers, got our first mail acknowl- 
edging the first mail from Queenstown, and some money. 
We took our lunch at a hotel and drove around the city, which 
is a very interesting old walled city. Then we went to the 
boat and arrived at Dinard in the middle of the afternoon. 
Found Dinard a beautiful place with a casino and our hotel 
close by it. 

Dinard is a most picturesque place with pretty villas and 
gardens upon high rocks. The tide rises so high that the whole 
aspect of the place is entirely different at high and low tide. 
We started off this Sunday morning and took the boat on the 



FRANCE 

river Ranee for Dinan, a beautiful river with high banks and 
castles perched up on top. The common women wear the 
Breton caps, but generally black dresses with shawls on their 
shoulders. 

It is provoking to only be able to stay a day in a place 
where I would like to stay a week. At Dinan there are so 
many interesting castles we had to renounce seeing. We took 
our baggage to the railroad station and had a good lunch at a 
hotel where a woman waited on us with a real Breton cap. 
We went to the old Chateau and Cathedral and drove through 
the streets and saw the old houses and the peasants coming 
from church. Then we took a train intending to spend the 
night at Dol and go on to-morrow to Mont St. Michel. We 
changed from two hotels to a third one beside the railway 
station as we were afraid to spend the night in them, they were 
so frightfully dirty. I will have to leave details until I get 
home. 

Trouville, July 20th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

We left Dinard Sunday morning, going up the Ranee by 
boat as I wrote Laura, and spent the day at Dinan and the 
night at Dol, and went to St. Michel Monday morning. All 
the time we had perfect weather. From the moment we sighted 
the "Merveille" St. Michel I have been in a stupor of delight. 
I expected a great deal, having read such enthusiastic de- 
scriptions but nothing can equal the reality, and it is rightly 
named the wonder of the world. 

We were taken from Pontorson in a big sort of omnibus 

and stopped dead against the town wall with no gate in sight. 

Then we got out and went round to another side where there 

was a gate. From that a narrow street without sidewalks and 

a gutter in the middle, led up through the little town there is. 

At the left, quite near the gate, was the Hotel of Poulard Aine, 

where we were to put up. At the door was Madame, just as 

handsome as the book (Three Normandy Inns) describes her, 

and she ushered us into a great kitchen with a hoveled fire- 

203 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

place — immense — but only a small wood fire. On a spit in 
front of the fire at least a dozen chickens were turning slowly 
and roasting;, preparing for the eleven o'clock dinner. Crowds 
of people were coming in, starved, and we concluded to stay 
there until after breakfast, as we had to mount 200 steps to 
our rooms in a separate house. So I sat myself down by the 
fire, which was not too warm (July 18th) and watched Madame 
Poulard make her celebrated omelettes. 

There are three dining rooms on three separate floors, one 
opposite the kitchen, an open room, and one on the first floor 



1 




MONT SAINT MICHEL 



over the kitchen, and the other above that. I never had a 

more delicious meal. First, the perfect omelette, then fish 

cooked to perfection, then chickens so juicy and tender, and 

large cherries for dessert. The table seated forty people and 

there were two sets, eleven and twelve o'clock. 

To go to our rooms we crossed the street, went up on the 

town wall, crossed back over the street by a bridge and went 

up a circular flight of stone steps to our rooms. The house 

consisted of four stories of tiny single rooms; the lower floor 

opened on a terrace with wall and a row of dwarf plantain 

trees, trimmed very low and making a perfect shade, and tables 

204 



FRANCE 

and chairs there. Our rooms were on the second floor and had 
a porch. 

I had scarcely made myself comfortable when I heard the 
voices of Mrs. Denckla and the others, and was glad enough 
to see them, and we all started off together to see the Abbeys, 
etc., etc. It took us three hours steady climbing and walking, 




L'ESCALIER DE DENTELLES, MONT ST. MICHEL 

and it was well worth it. There was an elderly priest with a 
fine face in our party, whose picture I should like to have had 
taken in the cloisters. He sighed frequently as we went 
through the magnificent halls, and said how hard it was to 
see such a place idle, doing no good. 

There are many parts being restored now by the govern- 
ment. The beauty of the "escalier de dentelle" and the flying 

205 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

buttresses which support it, are beyond my powers of descrip- 
tion also the effect of the shadows of the clouds on the wet 
sand when the tide was out. The feeling of immense height 
when looking over from the stairways and open stone railings 
of some of the galleries was almost frightful. You must cer- 
tainly come to see it sometime. 

After dinner we all went up the little street which leads 
from the gate, to find the house of Bertrand du Guesclin. It 
is the only real house in the place. The others were mere holes, 
without windows except in the street, the real, unchanged 
Medieval homes of the people; the animals and people all 
huddled together, with the tools of trade. Then the fisher- 
men with blue berets on their heads and knitted jackets and 
short trousers, and bare legs and feet, with bags thrown over 
their shoulders, while very dirty, were most picturesque. 

We wandered round the ramparts and couldn't tear our- 
selves away, except we were nearly killed with fatigue. I de- 
cided to give up the small towns of Avranches and Coutances 
as there is very little that cannot be seen from outside, and 
to go on to Trouville and return to Caen. I was glad I had done 
so, for in passing through those towns we saw all there was to 
be seen, but we had scarcely arrived here last night when there 
came up a furious storm, with about the worst wind I have 
ever known, and the noise of the surf was terrible all night. 
This is a beautiful place and I am sorry to have lost, through 
the storm, the opportunity of seeing the bathing. 

We go in an hour to Dives to see the celebrated Inn of Wil- 
liam the Conqueror, and on to Caen early to-morrow. We have 
walked all around the beach and through the town of Trou- 
ville and had to hold our hats as it is the worst wind I have 
ever been out in. The beach has a wooden walk on the level, 
hotels are a little higher, built around three sides of beautiful 
gardens. The villas rise behind on a hill. The streets are full 
of beautiful shops with lovely jewelry, brocades and silver, 
fruit and confections. 

206 



FRANCE 

I wish I felt able to write to everyone, but it takes really 
all my time to write these descriptions of what I am seeing, 
travelling so fast as we do. 

With much love to all and for yourself, 

Yours aff., M. D. R. 

A month gone already and soon it will be time to go home ! 

Trouville, July 20th, 1892. 
Dear Papa: 

We are here in the middle of an enormous windstorm and 
so, of course, see none of the society life on the beach. We 




L 



TROUVILLE 



arrived here last night after travelling all day in the train. 
The church at Mont St. Michel is very interesting. We saw 
all the dungeons and secret torture chambers. We missed 
seeing the tide come in at the Mont, but Madame Poulard 
told us the tides were very low just now. 

Love to all, 

C. 

207 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Caen, July 22nd, 1892. 
Dear Uncle Joe: 

We are now in Caen, an interesting old town with a lot of 
cathedrals. They are nearly all Romanesque in style except 
one, which is in the flamboyant Gothic. The carving in the 
latter is very fine. On the sides of the naves are the flying 
buttresses, which are also beautifully decorated. The in- 
teriors are quite plain, as the people as a rule are poor, and 
cannot replace the tawdry ornaments which do not wear like 
the stone itself. The old houses here are somewhat like the 
American or English Queen Anne style. The front overhangs 
and each story projects a little more than the other. They 
are composed of wooden beams, which are generally carved, 
filled in between with stone, brick, or plaster. 

All the wood one sees here is oak, black and worm eaten. 

The Breton peasants are a great disappointment to me, for 
although they still wear the accustomed headgear, they do 
not wear the costume or the sabots and they talk real French. 
The cooking has been good nearly everywhere, but the cus- 
toms of serving are not much different. 

Love to all, 

Clifford. 

Tours, July 24th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

I wrote you about the storm at Trouville, which was at 
night. We came back to Dives that evening in order to spend 
the night at the Inn called Guillaume le Conquerant. It was 
just as curious and interesting as I expected. It was built 
around a court and was full of delightful things, and there 
were two perfectly beautiful rooms with magnificent carved 
high dados and tapestry above and wonderful cabinets and 
bric-a-brac. They were where Madame de Sevigne had spent 
the evening with the Duchess de something. The bed rooms 
all opened off very low galleries which went all around the 

court on the second floor. I had Madame de Sevigne's room 

208 



FRANCE 

and couldn't sleep; I was so afraid the canopy of magnificent, 
but very old brocade would fall on me. 

The rest of the Inn looked very old and poor, and I cannot 
take time to tell you of the all curious things there now. We 
took an early morning train to Caen and spent the afternoon 
seeing the town, the Abbaye aux Hommes and Abbaye aux 
Femmes, founded by William the Conqueror and his wife, 
Mathilde. Caen is very old and interesting; the streets very 










f^-'-y^ ~ -ZJL v :: --■ '■'' •/ w ?? E f :j (.-'./ A £ -J /,£ " - . . v 

■■■--■■■ '-"^j^iif'^^i--^ ; ■■ '■^.-^■■^yljZL.^M 

THE INN OF GUILLAUME LE CONQUERANT, DIVES 

narrow and full of life. Our hotel, the Grande Bretagne, was 
terribly old, but had an excellent cuisine. 

The second day, Friday, we went out to Bayeux to see the 
famous tapestry, and spent three hours, saw a very fine cathe- 
dral, etc., and on Saturday came directly here to Tours, start- 
ing at 9.30 and arriving at 8. We had to spend two hours at 
LeMans and went all over the town, the Cathedral very fine 
and the house where Queen Berengaria lived after the death 
of Richard Coeur de Lion. We were scarcely tired when we 
got here as the trains go slowly and there is almost no motion, 
but we were hungry and got a good dinner. 
14 209 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

I found on inquiry that we could see both Chenonceaux 
and Amboise in one day. We met the Emersons from Boston 
and spent the whole day with them. 

We drove from Chenonceaux in carriages to Amboise after 
lunching at the "Bon Laboureur" where we had fresh wild 
strawberries and large red and white raspberries, and sucre 
d'orge. 

Amboise is the property of the Comte de Paris and he is 




CHATEAU DE CHENONCEAUX 



restoring it to the state it was in in the Fifteenth Century. 
A great part of it is uninhabitable at present. The Chapel of 
St. Hubert is perfectly beautiful. We went down into the 
town and out of the chateau by an enormous tower, not by 
a staircase, but by an inclined plane which was used by eques- 
trians and up which Charles V was conducted by Henry II 
when he came to visit him, by torchlight. An iron-railed gallery 
out of one of the rooms is where Francis II and Mary Stuart, 
Catherine de Medici and her two sons witnessed the massacre 
of the Huguenots in the streets far below. Leonardo da Vinci 
also died and was buried there at that castle. 



FRANCE 

I hope to see two more castles to-morrow. Although it 
is Sunday night, the band is playing the Marseillaise and I can 
see some fountains from my windows on the Boulevard. It was 
quite a coincidence, our meeting the Emersons. Just as we 
were leaving Mont St. Michel last Tuesday morning, Madame 




CHATEAU D'AMBOISE 



Poulard asked us to write our names in her book. There we 
saw the following verse signed with three Emerson names 
from Boston: 



Joan of Arc at point of lance, 
Drove the English out of France; 
But Madame Poulard better yet, 
Brings them back with an omelette. 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We thought it very clever and all learned it by heart, so when 
I found these people were named Emerson, it flashed upon me 
who they were, and I repeated the verse much to their sur- 
prise and Mr. E. asked where I found the verse. They will 
spend the night of September 27th at the Adelphi, as we ex- 
pect to do, but sail by another line. Cliff and I have made up 
our minds that you must come over, if only for two or three 
weeks and take us home 

With much love from both of us,Yours aff., M. D. R. 

P. S. — We have struck our first warm weather. As usual, the 
sun shines brightly. I don't know what we should think if 
we should find it raining some day. There is so much cool 
breeze that the heat is perfectly bearable and not at all op- 
pressive, and the nights are very cool. They can beat us all 
to pieces with climate. 

Tours, Monday, July 25, 1892. 
Dear Papa: 

The scenery in this part of France is much more interest- 
ing than in Normandy. Besides being hilly and rough, it is 
wilder. We went to see the Chateau of the Comte de Paris 
yesterday. The chateau at Chenonceaux is much more in- 
teresting and is built on a stone bridge across the river Cher. 

Love to all. C. 

Tuesday, July 26th, 1892. 
Tours. 
Dear Papa: 

France is a queer place in the evening. All is gayety and 
life, the streets are full of people and so are the cafes, and yet 
with all the sins and vices here, drunkenness is not included. 
We drove all around the town this morning. 

The weather here to-day has been quite warm. We go to 
Blois this evening and if it has not cooled off it will be nasty 
travelling. The poor soldiers have a hard time here, especially 
the recruits, who have to make long marches every day to 
learn to keep step. Love to all, C. 



FRANCE 

Grand Hotel de Blois, 

Blois, July 27th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

We came here late yesterday evening to avoid the heat, 
and went this morning to see the Chateau of Blois, quite nearby 
and very beautiful and interesting historically; and drove to 
Chambord this afternoon. It was a long, dusty drive, but 
fortunately for us the sun stayed under a cloud. 

The Emersons concluded to give it up and I did not feel 
repaid though I am glad to have seen it. The weather is very 
warm and I begin to feel that we have done enough rapid 
travelling, and will get to Hombourg as soon as possible, 
and rest. 

I had written to the Rochambeaus in French that I expected 
to pass through Vendome and would stop off to call on them. 
When we returned from Chambord we found a telegram from 
the Marquis telling me to get my tickets for a certain station 
and he would meet me there, so we all start to-morrow at 8.40 
and if they don't insist upon our staying over night, I shall 
go on to Chartres for the night and be in Paris the next day. 
I am in my usual condition of shabby clothes and shall have 
to buy a dress in Paris to present a respectable appearance at 
Hombourg. 

I never saw such a table as they have at this hotel; one 
is just stuffed. They had delicious melon after the soup; then 
pates of sweetbread, then salmon, then filet with tomatoes, 
then duck, then artichokes, then string beans, then chicken 
and salad, then pudding, then most delicious small eclairs 
served in little papers like Marrons glaces, then large dishes 
of peaches, grapes, nectarines, strawberries and raspberries, 
cherries, white and red vin ordinaire. 

I hope we shall find plenty of letters at Paris to find out 
how you all are and what you are doing. Will write you all 
about our visit. 

With love to all, 

Yours aff., M. D. R. 
213 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Grand Hotel de Blois, 

Blois 27th July, 1892. 
Dear Laura: 

We have been travelling so rapidly and so hard that I 
could not write oftener. It has been very hard work seeing 
these chateaux along the Loire. We found hot weather when 
we got to Tours. We went in an hour and a half in a train to 
Chenonceaux, had our lunch, saw the castle, then drove eight 
miles across country to Amboise and back to Tours by rail- 
road. 

The third day I gave up Loches and Chinon and saw the 
city of Tours, and took a train at seven p. m. and got here at 
nine. We have been doing all the castles with the Emersons, 
of Boston. They know all the people we know of Boston, and 
are clever and related to Ralph Waldo. 

The Rochambeaus have telegraphed me to stop at a small 
station near Vendome and they will meet me, so we are off" 
to-morrow morning having seen the two chateaux of Blois 
and Chambord. I feel now that we must get somewhere to 
rest, that we have done enough rapid travelling. 

I am trying to write in this salon de lecture but the pen 
is too bad and I shall have to retire to my room. I am 
so stupefied with good things and wish I could get the 
cook of this Hotel to take home with me. Unfortunately 
this warm weather takes away one's appetite. I think 
we have been so fortunate, in the first place to have had 
such delightful cool and even cold weather for our hard travel- 
ling, and never have had one day of rain. It rained hard 
when I was in the South Kensington Museum and that 
is all. It is thundering now at nine p. m. and I hope it 
will rain and cool the air. 

I dread two days in Paris with cholera there, but I have 
to get a new dress to make a respectable appearance in Hom- 
bourg and get my brown jacket fixed up. I have felt per- 
fectly well and energetic all the time because the weather has 

been so favorable. Most of my days are as much labor as 

214 



FRANCE 

going to New York for the day from Philadelphia, but I shall 
do nothing at Hombourg. Hot weather takes all the ambition 
right out of me and makes me long for a bath tub. 

Paris, July 29th, 1892. 

Yesterday morning I had thought of going to church, when 
it was suggested it might be a little risky on account of cholera, 
so I rested and stayed in all morning. Then at five, Cliff and 
I went up the Eiffel Tower. It is amusing how we always 
strike cheap days without knowing it. It only cost the two of 
us four fares to go up and down, and we dined on the pre- 
mier etage. It was a wonderful sight, and the surroundings 
of the Tour, the Trocadero and Champ de Mars, and the build- 
ings left from the exhibition are wonderfully beautiful. 

We came back on one of the Seine boats from the Tour 
Eiffel to the Place de la Concorde, just to try them. They 
go wonderfully fast, and although it is out of season, and every- 
body supposed to be away, both boats and omnibuses are cram 
full all the time. 

It was delightfully comfortable on the Tower, but the crowd 
in the elevators was frightful. I cannot get away from here 
before Wednesday morning, August 3rd, and we expect to go 
straight to Strasbourg and Frankfort to let Clifford do the 
Rhine while I am at Hombourg, as I don't want to take the 
time for it. It has been very hot but is raining now and I hope 
will be cooler. I do wish you could be here with us. 

With love to all, 

Aff., M. D. R. 

Normandy Hotel, 
Paris, July 29th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

Here we are in Paris suffering with the heat. I am ob- 
liged to stay here two or three days to get a dress. We went 
to the Rochambeau's yesterday morning from Blois. The 
Marquis met us at the station and took us in a Victoria to 

215 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

his chateau. It looked exactly as I expected a French chateau 
to look. The river Loir passes in front of it, and the strip of 
land between it and the house has a hedge of roses. The 
house was long, the way of the River, and shallow, only one 
room deep. We were conducted through three or four salons 
beautifully furnished with real old Louis XV furniture, and 
then I was taken upstairs to Mme. de Rochambeau's room. 
She has been very ill so she can't walk. No one could have 
been more cordial. She kissed me on both cheeks and held 




MARQUIS DE ROCHAMBEAU 

my hand and made the biggest fuss over me. They then 
brought in the whole family. The oldest son with his wife and 
baby*; the next son who is in some office in Paris and has had 
the grippe and been at home convalescing, and then the young 
boy who was born after they returned from America. The 
doctor came and we all went downstairs, and I was shown the 
family portraits and miniatures. Both their ancestors were 
Marechals de France; they have full length portraits of them 
and beautiful portraits of women; the Marechal's sword and 
orders and the robe of the Saint Esprit (Santo Spirito). 

When lunch was served, I found a crowd of company, the 

*The " babies " grown to manhood were killed in battle in 1916 in France! 

216 



FRANCE 

doctor with his wife and baby, three Abbes, a Count some- 
body, who has married an American wife and who was a per- 
fectly charming man. I was the guest of honor and taken in 
on the Marquis' arm. They had a nice lunch of several courses, 
three or four kinds of wine and champagne. Two men in 
livery; you would have laughed to see how perfectly at my 
ease I was. I talked as much as anyone and even made jokes. 
After lunch we found Madame had been brought down 
into the salon the first time. She was so very enthusiastic 
over me I couldn't help being flattered and she raved over 




CHATEAU DE ROCHAMBEAU, VENDOME 

America. I told them they must certainly come over next 
year and we would do all we could for her. The second son 
had to come to Paris in the afternoon, so we travelled together 
as far as Voves. We went in a private omnibus, with our bag- 
gage on top, to Vendome, and the Marquis took me through 
the cathedral and showed me all the sights. They have be- 
hind their house a hill which is riddled with caves, former 
dwellings of a race called the "cave dwellers." They have 
been like that 3000 years! We noticed all through the Tour- 
aine from Tours all along the Loire, the hills pierced with holes. 
They make use of them now to store things and as stables, 
and even as dwellings. Mme. has built a handsome chapel 

and they have Mass twice a week. 

217 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 




218 



FRANCE 

They had so much to say about Joe and Fanny and praised 
them to the skies, and hoped they would certainly see them 
over here and sent all sorts of messages to them. They also 
sent their greetings to Mr. and Mrs. Childs and spoke of the 
Drexels. The whole family saw us off and the Marquis all 
the way to Vendome and put us in the train. The son was 
very nice in the train. They all raved over Laura's picture, 
which I happened to have with me. 

They all said it was all bosh about cholera in Paris, and 
we find it full of Americans. We spent last night in Chartres 




THE CHAMBER AND DEATHBED OF COUNT ROCHAMBEAU 

The embroidery on bed and chairs was worked by the Countess during her husband's campaign in the 

United States. The portrait presented by General Washington. 

and went early this morning to see the cathedral, which is 
wonderful, and took the express here, arriving at one. 

If I happen to get sick, or to feel that I need a day's rest 
I am going to take it, and not feel that sick or well I must be 
at any place on the minute. 

George B. Roberts is here with his wife and oldest child 
and says he would like to stay here in all this heat. They only 
arrived yesterday. I have not yet got my tickets for Bay- 
reuth. The man in Dresden wrote July 3rd I could have 
tickets for July 28th. Good-bye, with love, 

Yours amy, M. D. R. 




GERMANY 

Royal Victoria Hotel, 

Hombourg, August 6, 1892. 
Dear Aunt Mary: 

While I am waiting here to see if I can get rooms, I will 
write a few lines. We arrived here last night after leaving 
Paris the morning of the day before, spent the night at Stras- 
bourg and stayed until noon looking at the town. The cathe- 
dral was a dream of beauty and the town full of quaint and 
interesting houses. 

My first uncomfortable train ride since I came over was 
yesterday coming from Strasbourg to Frankfort. There was so 
much motion and the men smoked everywhere. They had 
no rooms for us here and sent us to another place where we 
had a good dinner, but I didn't like the rooms. It was directly 
in front of the Kursaalhaus, and up the street from this hotel. 
After dinner we went into the Kurgarten, which was brilliant 
with electric lights and lanterns and a fine military band was 
giving a concert, and it was full moonlight, but I was too tired 
and cold to stay long. 

This is the sort of place where you want fine clothes, and I 
have mighty little. My black grenadine and Egan black silk 
are already very shabby; my fawn colored woolen and velvet 
dirty and discolored. I went to Doucet in Paris and got an 
India silk, black ground, with dull pale blue narrow stripes 
and pin dots between, trimmed with handsome black lace in 



GERMANY 

some parts over blue, so I have that to dress up in; but I went 
to a cheap dressmaker and had a dark blue crepon made up 
with a little black satin ribbon and some black guipure, and 
I don't like it. I am done with cheap dressmakers, only I 
wear out my clothes so dreadfully, I need so many. My Egan 
black silk is the only dress I have a decent figure in. 

I have my tickets for the Parsifal at Bayreuth for the 2 1st, 
which gives me only two weeks here, but I cannot help it. 




HOMBOURG 



I find everything so dear. I had to pay #110 in Paris for an 
India silk, and everything in proportion. The only cheap 
things are some gloves and stockings. I preferred the Bon 
Marche to the Louvre in almost everything, but one day found 
the same stockings at the Louvre for 9 frcs. 50 I had paid 12 
frcs. 50 Bon Marche and 14 shillings in London at Army and 
Navy stores. 

With love for all, 

Yours aff., M .D. R. 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Royal Victoria Hotel, 
Hombourg, Aug. 9th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

I have just got your two letters dated July 29th enclosing 
one to you from Laura and acknowledging a cablegram from 
Paris. We arrived here Friday night and finally settled here 
Saturday noon and will leave for Bayreuth just two weeks 
from that day and spend Sunday, the 21st there, and then on 
to San Moritz. We have two nice rooms, one facing the hotel 
garden and the other another garden, so we have a fine draught 
of air and are comfortable. I went at once to see the doctor 
but he said that two weeks were a very short time to do much 
good. I did not care to make the trip to Bayreuth and return 
here, it is too far away. 

Most of the women have large bunches of flowers and it 
looks very pretty on a sunny day. It rained here this morn- 
ing, and has been very warm, but cool at night. We all went 
in to the hop last night to look on. The Prince of Wales* is 
expected on Sunday, I believe, and as he dines on the Kursaal 
Terrace every night, we shall probably see him. They say 
the ex-Empress Frederick goes to the Springs every day, but 
I have not seen her. 

I have taken the water now three days. My rules are to 
be at the spring about eight. It takes me from fifteen to 
twenty minutes to get there; then I drink one glass and walk 
fifteen minutes; then another and back to breakfast a half 
hour later. Then at four in the afternoon the same thing. I 
have been feeling perfectly strong and well, but since I have 
been taking this water, I can hardly get back to the hotel, I 
feel so dead tired. 

They say Mark Twain and Oscar Wilde are here, and 
in our hotel there is the Duchess of Bedford and she is 
a sight. 

Most of the people we know are gone to Switzerland. We 
are going to Frankfort some day to spend the day. I would 

* Afterward King Edward. 



GERMANY 

like Clifford to go to Wiesbaden and as far as Coblentz and 
back again, if possible, while we are here, but have made no 
plans as yet. We leave here on Saturday noon of the 20th 
and arrive at Bayreuth at midnight. I prefer this to getting up 
at four in the morning. I had no idea it was so long a trip; 
thought it took about five hours. It is less than 200 miles, 
so you see how they travel here. 

I go to bed hungry every night because I am not allowed 
fruit or salad and sweet things, and I don't get enough to eat 
to go to sleep on; but I guess I can stand it for two weeks. 
This climate is a good deal like Newport. I long for the moun- 
tains and Switzerland. 

I never go over the same ground twice, to avoid expense and 
to see more. I am glad we stopped at Strasbourg as it was so 
interesting. 

With love to all, and wishing you could be here with us 
and enjoying things as I do, 

Yours aff., M D. R. 

Hombourg, Aug. 14, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

Two letters from you yesterday dated July 29th and Au- 
gust 1st, so you see they came together, although written three 
days apart. Clifford went yesterday to Coblentz, taking the 
Rhine steamer at Bieberich, and was going to Wiesbaden by 
train to-day to see your relative, Mr. Rosengarten, the archi- 
tect, and will perhaps be home to-night. I will take my dinner 
at the Kursaal with the Warrens to-night. I went to church 
with him at the castle where the Empress Frederick lives. 
She and her daughter were present in a sort of gallery, up 
above the pulpit. Calvary church is a palace compared with 
it and every other detail in the same proportion. 

We are going to-morrow to Frankfort to see the Roths- 
child's collection. I shall not have time to look up people as 
I shall only be there a few hours. 



223 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Hombourg, August 17th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

We have been scorched here for three or four days, and 
I find it hard to get down in the morning to the springs and 
then at eleven for my bath and late in the afternoon again to 
drink. In the evenings there is nothing to do after dinner 
but go up to the Kursaal and see the crowd. Sometimes we 
dine there. The Duke of Cambridge, cousin to Queen Vic- 
toria, sat near us, dines here every day, and all the swells dine 
at that time. We leave here Saturday at noon, take the 1.30 
train for Frankfort and arrive at Nuremberg, seven something, 
and get to Bayreuth before eleven. 

Monday we will go back to Nuremberg and from there to 

Innsbruck and Landeck, and drive from there to St. Moritz, 

where I long to be, for they say it is always cool there, being 

so high. 

Aff., M. D. R. 

Hombourg, Friday, August 19, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

We leave here to-morrow noon, and arrive at Bayreuth 
eleven at night. We have had most terrible heat here for 
over a week, and I have suffered as much as I ever did in my 
life. Yesterday I was out in the sun too much and am pay- 
ing up for it by a severe congestion to-day. This morning 
I tried to take my bath after drinking the water before 
breakfast so as to avoid an extra trip to the springs. It 
has been too hot for me to think of going to Frankfort, or 
for Clifford either. 

We are going this afternoon to see a Roman camp at Saal- 
berg, which they say is one of the finest and best preserved 
camps in Europe. Yesterday there was a battle of flowers, 
but it was not a success. If it had not been for my cure here, 
I would have gone away from here to some cool place. Yes- 
terday was the hottest day ever known in Frankfort, but we 

hope it will be better to-morrow. I think that if it is pleasant 

224 



GERMANY 

at San Moritz we had better stay there three or four days to 
recover from this heat. We drive in from Landeck and drive 
out to Chiavenna, and we will telegraph when we arrive at 
San Moritz, so you can find us for a day or two. From there 
I have no particular plans, except that it would be very con- 
venient to go to the Italian Lakes, unless it should be fright- 
fully hot. We want to get over the San Gothard pass and will 
travel about through Switzerland, and try to get back to Paris 
by the tenth of September. If the cholera is raging there, we 
shall only pass through and get to London. 

We cut ourselves off from mail now until we arrive at San 
Moritz. I dread to-morrow's journey on account of heat and 
motion, and grudge the money they make us pay for the bag- 
gage that costs us nothing in France. They make us pay eight 
marks a day's trip. 

Love to all, 

Mary D. 

5 P. M. Nuremberg, 
August 22nd, 1892. 
Dear F: 

We are off in an hour by fast train to Munich, there to 
spend the night and go in the morning to Innsbruck. It is too 
hot to stay in Munich, and as the heat has upset both Clifford 
and myself, we think it wiser to avoid cities and get to the 
mountains as soon as possible and into high countries. I can- 
not bear the heat any longer. We have had now ten days of 
it; and I am in a perspiration all the time. 

By taking this evening train, we get there at 10.30 and 
avoid the sun. Our faces are now turned toward home. The 
amells in Bayreuthwere frightful and I was afraid to stay there. 
Germany is less civilized than France in that respect. Nurem- 
berg is so interesting. If it were not so hot, I should like to 
stay longer. Have to change to Austrian money at Innsbruck 
and to French money next day. Love to all. 

Amy., M. D. R. 
15 225 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Innsbruck, Aug. 25th, 1892. 
Dear Aunt Mary: 

Although it is only six it is almost dark, as the high moun- 
tains shut off the light very early. I don't know whether you 
were here or not, but father and mother and I passed through 
here once in cold weather in 1870 on our way from Verona to 
Munich. Now the heat is so great that the snow is all melted 
from the mountains, and a very hot, strong wind has pre- 




ST. MORITZ 



vented our driving about any to-day. To-morrow we go by 
rail to Coire, and the next day by diligence or carriage to St. 
Moritz in the Engadine, where we hope to be cool, as it is 
higher than Mt. Washington. I may stay a week, as I need a 
rest after my cure and have found the trip here from Hom- 
bourg very trying. We left Frankfort at noon last Saturday 
and arrived at Bayreuth at midnight in intense heat; had rooms 
in a private house and took our meals anywhere. They only 
had one sheet on each bed and I had a great time getting an- 
other and slept under one sheet. Clifford didn't know what to 



226 



GERMANY 

make of it. We got up late and after our coffee, went into the 
Park to keep cool, visited Wagner's grave, and Frau Wagner's 
house then took lunch, which cost us in that little primitive 
place, $2.00. The Opera Parsifal began at 4 p. m. and we 
started a little after 3, found we had good seats. I was much 
disappointed in the inward and outward appearance of the 
theatre, but the performance was wonderful. 

Vandyke was the Parsifal and looked just like the pictures 
of Christ. The Duchess of Edinborough was there with the 
Princess of Saxe Meiningen in the Royal box. At six there 



Hter, wo mein Wahnen r'rieden fand, 
„Walinfried" sei dicser Ort zubenaant. 
Rich. Wagner. 




THE HOUSE OF RICHARD WAGNER, BAYREUTH 

was a half-hour interval and we went out and got an ice and 
at eight we had time to get a supper. We sat in the dark the 
entire time and were not allowed to speak or move. It would 
take too long to tell you all about it now. 

We went back to Nuremberg the next morning, our livers 
upset by the intense heat and the frightful smells of Bayreuth. 
Nuremberg is delightful. I took a carriage and we went every- 
where. I got myself a little solid silver after-dinner coffee pot 
there. They had such beautiful silver and peasant costumes. 
I was crazy to bring a headdress and bodices, also at Bayreuth 

they had most beautiful carved screen frames, beautiful shapes 

227 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

ungilded very cheap, but I thought I could get them anywhere, 
and have not seen one since. I think I shall get in London 
one of those travelling capes that are so useful. 

With love to all, 

M. D. R. 

Innsbruck, Aug. 25th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

We arrived here yesterday afternoon at three p. m., worn 
out with the heat and dust, and came to the Hotel Tyrol, near 
the station. The place is perfectly beautiful, grand moun- 




HOTEL TYROL, INNSBRUCK 

tains rising all around it, but a sirocco is prevailing, which 
blows the dust in clouds on everything and makes riding or 
walking unendurable. We rested until table d'hote dinner and 
walked out in the town afterwards, but it was quite deserted 
on account of the wind. 

I thought, of course, it would rain, but this morning the 
sun was shining brightly and the wind blowing as hard as ever. 

We found it takes two whole days to go from here to the 

228 



GERMANY 

Engadine, so decided to leave to-morrow 9.45 for Coire, reach- 
ing there at 4.30 and next morning take either diligence or 
carriage to St. Moritz, taking the whole day. 

This morning we walked through the whole town and en- 
joyed the picturesque houses and the cathedral with the tomb 
of Maximilian the Great and the high sized statues in bronze 
of his relatives and ancestors. This afternoon we had intended 
to drive to Castle Ambras but had to give it up on account 
of the wind. 

Our rooms are at the back of the house overlooking the 
garden, and the mountains are so near, they look as though 
they would fall over us. The snow is all melted off the sum- 
mits with the intense heat. At Vienna they had it 1 10 degrees 
and the drought makes it worse. I need a few days' rest in a 
cool, quiet place after my cure, and have had too much trav- 
elling in the last few days. 

Bayreuth was a most awkward place to get at. If it had 
not been for Bayreuth, I should have gone straight down to 
the Black Forest and into Switzerland that way. If it stays 
warm, I shall also have to give up the Italian Lakes. I will 
let you know when we decide on our next movements. I 
want to be back in Paris by the eleventh, but if not considered 
advisable to stay, shall go on to London. I am so sorry I 
did not get a carved wood screen at Bayreuth; they were so 
pretty and reasonable. I haven't seen one since we left there. 
It gets dark here very early on account of the high mountains. 

With love, and hoping to get letters at St. Moritz, 

Amy., M. D. R. 

Germany is much more expensive than France, and it was 
very dear at Hombourg. The sky looks very threatening, and 
I have no doubt it will rain just in time for our day's drive 
on Saturday which would be most unpleasant. 

With much love, 

M. D. R. 




SWITZERLAND 

St. Moritz, Aug. 29th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

We arrived here very late Saturday afternoon. The weather 
changed the night before we left Innsbruck coming on with 
a hard rain about eight o'clock and lasting all night. It cleared 
in the morning and we had a delightful railroad ride to Coire, 
spent the night at the hotel Steinbock and watched the dili- 
gences arrive from every direction. 

As we could not get the best seats in the Diligence for St. 
Moritz, we engaged a carriage and then visited the town, 
which was very picturesque. The next morning we took break- 
fast at half past five and were on our way at six. The weather 
was magnificent, perfectly clear and cool, and we stopped at 
Sairgno at noon for lunch, a quaint Italian place. The people all 
looked Italian and spoke it, and yet it is German Switzerland. 

It got very cold by the time we got to the top of the Julier 
Pass, and we were almost frozen by the time we arrived at 
St. Moritz after nine. People generally take two days to do 
this trip, but we hadn't time. Yesterday it was 20 , wintry 
cold and a fearful gale raging, so that we found it impossible 
to stay out of doors and as the hotel was not heated in any way 
we found it impossible to get warm. So in a few days we have 
passed from intense heat to intense cold, and I don't know 
which is the more disagreeable! 

This morning we found it warmer and no wind so we walked 
to Pontresina, a perfectly beautiful walk by lakes and 
through pine forests, with glimpses of glaciers, and at Pon- 
tresina, a quaint Italian town with little shops and grated 

windows, had our lunch at the Kroner Hotel, full of English 

230 



SWITZERLAND 

people and much more homelike and attractive than here. 
There are two great glaciers in view from Pontresina, the 
Roseg, and the Morteratsch, and we propose to make an ex- 
cursion there very soon. 

This hotel is filled with French and Germans and is verylarge 
and bare. I think Pontresina more sheltered and picturesque. 




TO CHUR, JULIER PASS 

St. Moritz is too cold and windy. The wind is blowing again 
furiously. We are trying to make up our minds what to do. 

Cliff and I are both too cold to want to stay long and think 
of leaving Friday for Chiavenna and Milan and spend Satur- 
day there and take the express over the St. Gothard to Lu- 
cerne, arriving there Saturday before night. 

We all want to get to Zermatt, but it is so hard to get to. 
I would have to take the Simplon Pass from Milan to Brieg. 
Will let you know when I decide. 

Hoping to hear soon, 

AMy., M. D. R. 
231 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

St. Moritz, Thursday, Sept. 1st, 1892. 

The carriage will cost only about 2^ francs more apiece 
and is a little more independent. There is now some question 
of quarantine between here and the Italian Lakes, but I am 
not afraid of it. 

Yesterday we had a delightful drive up the Fex Glacier, 
and got home just in time to escape a heavy rain. This morn- 
ing the whole party was to go on donkeys over the Furka 
Pass, but the men said the weather was too threatening for 
that trip, and as I did not feel very well, I was rather glad to 
get rid of the excursion; also I wanted to write three or four 
letters, and have a lot of mending to do. The whole day had 
not been long enough, and I am frozen sitting in my room. 
It looks very gloomy just at present and I am quite sure it 
will rain to-morrow. 

We will get to Chiavenna in time for the 3.45 train to the 
Lakes and arrive late at Milan, about 10 p. m. On Thursday 
I expect to take the fast train to Lucerne over the St. Gothard, 
and go from there to Geneva and meet the party at Zermatt. 
I shall take the night train from Geneva Sunday night, Sept. 
nth. Switzerland is very dear indeed. Since we left Inns- 
bruck the money flies; 68 francs for our trip from Coire to 
St. Moritz, 40 to Chiavenna and hotels dear. 

The views are magnificent here, but the hotel is so cold I 
should never want to stay here again. Of course, Cliff and I 
will not see all the sights here, but will get an idea of what to 
do another time. I have no doubt the weather is comfortable 
now in other parts of Switzerland; it is not likely to be hot from 
now on. With much love, 

Affly., M. D. R. 




ITALY 

Milan, Sept. 3rd, 1892. 
Dear Papa: 

We got here late last night after travelling all day. I did 
not have a chance to drop you a postal. Part of the way was 
on a steamboat on Lake Como. The Lake was not blue, 
however, like in the pictures. Milan Cathedral is most in- 
teresting. I never saw so much detail massed together at 
once. 

Castelfranco is away in the country somewheres and so, 
of course, we will not see him. The weather here is a great 
change from that of Switzerland. We go to Lucerne to-mor- 
row and from there to Lausanne. From Lausanne we go co 
Zermatt, and then back the same way to Geneva where we 
take the night train to Paris. There is no fear of cholera here 
and there is no quarantine at the "borders." 

Mother finds everything greatly changed, but still was 
able to find the house where she used to live in 1869. The 
landlady was dead or removed, for they did not know of any 
such name. The streets here are well paved with cobbles, 
but these cobbles differ a little from ours. 



With love to all, 



Amy., C. 



233 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Milan, Sept. 3rd, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

We have had lunch and are going out again at 3 p. m. 
We left St. Moritz yesterday morning in a little carriage and 
had the most perfect drive you can imagine. We nearly froze 
on the Swiss side and found it very hot as soon as we had crossed 
the border. The descent is something wonderful. 

We took the train at Chiavenna, after taking an expensive 
but poor dinner, and at Colico took the boat. In order to get 
the fast train to Milan we had to get off the boat at Bellano 
and so missed Cadenabbia and Como, but it was a lovely ride 
*ate in the afternoon and the sunset was superb. There can 
be nothing more beautiful in the world than the Italian 
Lakes. 

We had a comfortable ride from Bellano here by bright 
moonlight and arrived at ten; came to the Hotel Metropole 
because it is in the Place de Duomo and opposite the Galleria. 
Prof. Castelfranco has not turned up, so I suppose he did not 
get my note. Cliff and I went into the Cathedral and he went 
all over the top. It is the most impressive interior we have 
seen yet. 

Cliff is delighted with Milan because it is gay and full of 
shops. We then walked up to the Via Pasquirolo and went into 
the house where I used to live in 1869, but the porter said there 
was no family by the name of Meuni there so I didn't go up. 
Milan is, of course, much changed and improved, with mag- 
nificent new buildings and is a beautiful city. 

We take the express over the San Gothard to-morrow and 
will be in Lucerne to-morrow evening. I met a charming 
French lady on the boat, who knew the Rochambeaus. Her 
conversation was delightful. We are now going to the Santa 
Maria delle Grazie to see the Last Supper and to drive around 
and show Cliff the town. 

With much love, 

Yours aff., M. D. R. 




SWITZERLAND 

Grand Hotel National, 

Lucerne, Sept. 4th, 1892. 
Dear Father: 

We arrived here to-night at six o'clock, after travelling 
all day. We passed over the St. Gothard, but as it rained all 
the time, we did not see much of the scenery. The hotel is 
very big here but not very comfortable. We had quite a good 
dinner. I hope we will not be quarantined when we come back 
to America. 

If it stops raining and the atmosphere is clear, I will go 
up Mt. Rigi on the railroad to-morrow. 

Love to all, C. 

Grand Hotel National, 

Lucerne, Sept. 5th, 1892. 
Dear Father: 

It is raining hard here so I will not be able to see anything 
of Lucerne or its neighborhood. We leave here to-morrow 
at 10.20 for Lausanne. We will not leave Switzerland until 
the 1 2th so that we expect to receive your letter with full in- 
structions and particulars. 

This house is full of people and I had to be put in a room 
in the annex, which is rather disagreeable. I was very much 
disappointed yesterday that our trip over the Pass was spoiled 
by the rain. Affly., C. 



235 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Hotel Seiler 

Zermatt 
September 8th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

Here we are at Zermatt and a bitter disappointment awaits 
us in the weather. It is pouring and apparently no sign of 
its letting up. I wrote you at Milan and since then have not 
been able to, from fatigue, we have travelled so fast. 

Mr. Castelfranco was at the seashore so we didn't see him 
at all; and we left Milan Sunday morning, after a shower, 
which laid the dust, and had a delightful ride over the St. 
Gothard Pass by Lugano and Como. It began to rain at 
Goschenen, and turned very cold. We found no fires in the 
hotel, nor in fact anywhere have they any provision against 
the cold. It poured all day Monday in Lucerne. We walked 
through the town and across the two old bridges and to Bos- 
sards antique store. The house was occupied by the Papal 
Nuncio in the last century and was very curious. They have 
it now filled with armor, old furniture, silver, brocades, etc. 
The next morning we started for Lausanne and had 
a lovely ride, although it was not perfectly clear. We spent 
the night at the Beau Rivage at Ouchy down on the lake, 
but were put off in cold rooms in the dependance. It is the 
most romantic spot possible and as we went to our rooms after 
dinner late, it was bright moonlight. There was no one there 
we knew. 

Wednesday morning we took the boat as far as Villeneuve, 
so Clifford saw Vevey, Montreux and Chillon, and we ex- 
pected to get through to Zermatt the same evening, but when 
we got to Villeneuve, they informed us the last train was 
taken off from Visp to Zermatt and we would have to spend 
the night at Visp. We arrived there at seven in a rain, but 
found a comfortable hotel, but no fires. This morning the 
sun was shining and as I was the first one down, I went out 
into a beautiful garden at the back of the house and saw the 

peasants going to church, so I followed them up the hill to a 

236 



SWITZERLAND 

very ancient church, and it was a fete day; the church was 
crowded with people, the peasants with their gold lace head- 
dresses, etc., and the church itself had a gallery hanging over 
the ravine, and was most picturesque. 

At ten we took the train up here and it soon began to rain. 
It took us three hours to come, and we had to get out and walk 
and change into another train on account of a landslide which 
occurred two or three weeks ago and destroyed some of the track. 

We went for our mail as soon as we had lunch and found 
your two letters of the 21st and 25th, and one from Aunt 
Mary, one from Clara saying they had not gone to Paris. At 
Lausanne, I sent my trunk to Geneva to avoid bringing it up 
here, and secured my sleeping car tickets for the Sunday night 
train to Paris. 

There seem to be plenty of Americans in Paris, and I think 
by not drinking any of the Seine water, we will not run any 
risk. The travelling this last week has been expensive. This 
railroad from Visp cost 33 francs for us two and the same to 
get back again, and I had to pay 50 francs for sleeping berths 
from Geneva to Paris, and that don't include the fares. 

We shall go from here to Martigny and by the south shore 
to Geneva, as it is a shorter way. I cannot get to our ship for 
the 28th unless I start now. I have allowed myself the least 
time possible and want to spend five or six days in London. 

There is fresh snow on the mountains all around almost 
down to the village, and it looks dreary enough with the clouds 
hanging so low. Even if it is clear to-morrow, I doubt if I 
would be able to go on mules, but I hope to see something 
before we leave Saturday morning. These sudden changes 
of climate are trying to everyone. I hope sometime we can 
come here together before we get too old. 

I am doing what I think the very best in keeping on with 
my original plan, and do not think anything would be gained 
by delay. The big steamers from Liverpool will not take any 
steerage passengers. With much love, 

Yours amy., M. D. R. 
237 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Grand Hotel National, Geneva, 

September 1 1, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

I ought to be out of doors looking at the gorgeous view of 
the mountains, but I can't do that and write too. The atmos- 
phere is perfectly clear, and the lake blue as indigo, while 
every mountain stands out with perfect clearness. The whole 
snow range of Mt. Blanc is visible, as it seldom is, and the 
scene is too beautiful for my powers of description. 

I wrote you at Zermatt the afternoon of our arrival when 
I felt too sick to go down to dinner, therefore, you will be sur- 
prised to hear that after a night's rest, and the day turned out 
to be fine, I made up my mind to go up to the RifTelberg. 
Cliff walked and the rest went on horseback, but we didn't 
have a clear view of the Matterhorn, and when we had passed 
the second hotel, it began to snow, and we could not go all 
the way to the Gorner Grat, as the snow was too deep the guide 
said. I rode most of the way down, although the guides wanted 
me to walk. I was afraid of getting my feet wet and was 
not prepared for mountain climbing. 

Yesterday morning I was less lame than I expected, and 
we started off from Zermatt at ten, having a perfectly clear 
view of the Matterhorn. Were we not fortunate, as others 
had been there a week and gone away without seeing it? 

We had a long, tiresome ride of twelve hours here, and 
arriving at Geneva, were informed there were no rooms for 
us at the Beau Rivage, so came to the National, where we 
have a fine front room between us, all we could get. This 
hotel is magnificent, right on the lakes, and to-day the air is 
just right. I think I am right to push on, as I see the City of 
New York was released from quarantine and will probably 
sail on the 28th. How I wish you could see this all, but I am 
sure we will be over here two years from now if alive. 

With much love, and looking forward to meeting again, 

Yours amy., M. D. R. 

238 




FRANCE 

Normandy Hotel, 
Paris, September 15th, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

I was so tired I couldn't write as I ought to have done yes- 
terday, and this is the first time to-day. It is just after table 
d'hote and we are going with the Cochranes to the Hippo- 
drome. We do not feel any fear of sickness here. The place 
is full of Americans and you would never judge from the ap- 
pearance of the city that there was any unusual sickness here, 
and I don't think there is. 

The Inman people here say the City of New York will sail 
on the 28th. I feel that I have done the right thing in stick- 
ing to my original dates. I would have preferred getting to 
England rather than staying in Geneva. Everything is fright- 
fully expensive in the way of clothes for women, but I think 
I am going to like mine. We expect to leave here Wednesday 
in the club train at 3 p. m. It is more expensive, but under 
the circumstances, there is less chance of detention than going 
second class. There was nothing but the ordinary examina- 
tion of baggage between Switzerland and France in spite of 
all the talk in the newspapers. 

I must be off, so good-bye. How I wish you were here to 
go with us. With much love, 

Amy., M. D. R. 



239 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Normandy Hotel, 

Paris, Sept. 17, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

The only thing I am afraid of is the fumigation of cloth- 
ing, but I scarcely think the passengers of a ship like the City 
of New York, coming from Liverpool without steerage pas- 




VERSAILLES 



sengers, will be subjected to it. It is cold and rainy here to- 
day, but has been lovely since Monday. 

We went to the Hippodrome night before last with the 
Cochranes; enjoyed it very much. Last night we went to the 
Theatre Francais near by and heard Hernani. Of course, the 
great actors are not back yet, but it was very good. Mr. 
Durand appeared day before yesterday with old Mr. Mourge 
and the latter insisted upon our going early to-morrow morn- 
ing for a whole day's excursion to Versailles and St. Germain, 
and lunch at the Durand's. 

Cliff and I went to the Musee Cluny to-day and enjoyed 

240 



FRANCE 

it highly. It breaks my heart not to get lots of things I see 
here, which it would pay to bring, but I can't do it. 

I have written to the Metropole we will be there Wednes- 
day night. There is much more illness in London, Typhoid 
and Scarlet Fever, than in Paris. Clifford has bought his 
watch and chain here at Henry Capt's, and has done a good 
deal of sightseeing. How I wish you were coming over, and 
we were going to stay a year. 

■"' Paris, Sept. 19th, 1892. 

Dear Father: 

We went out by invitation to Mr. Durand's at Versailles. 
He and M. Mourge met u.s at the station in a carriage and 
took us to the palace. We went over the whole of it and I was 
struck by its immensity, The gardens were very handsome. 
The whole building is filled with famous war pictures and 
copies of other famous ones. 

It took us about two hours to walk through, without look- 
ing carefully at the pictures. We then took another carriage 
and went to his house, where we were met by Mrs. Durand and 
a friend of hers. The house is beautifully furnished with old 
Breton furniture and has a pleasant garden. We had a pleas- 
ant lunch and then we all got in a big carriage and drove to 
St. Germain. There were six of us and when we got there we 
found the palace closed, so we walked up and down the plateau 
enjoying the fine view. There was just enough mist to give the 
sunset some beautiful effects. As soon as darkness closed in we 
went into the Pavilion Henry IV, to a champagne dinner which 
had been ordered beforehand. We had a small dining room to 
ourselves, and the end facing Paris was entirely open so as to give 
an undisturbed view. One by one the lights spread over the coun- 
try and last of all the searchlights on the EiffelTower appeared. 

We then sat down to dinner. M. Mourge was indefati- 
gable and kept on the go all day although 85 years old. At 
8.30 we left them and took the 9 o'clock train to Paris, while 
they had to drive all the way to Versailles. 

Affly., J. Clifford Rosengarten. 
16 




EN ROUTE 



The Hotel Metropole, 
London, Thursday, 
Sept. 22nd, 1892. 
Dear Frank: 

It was impossible for me to write for the last three days. 
I was on the dead run. One day I went to the Luxembourg and 
Louvre, and stood three hours at the dressmaker's, all in one 
day. 

I must write you about our Sunday in Versailles. We took 
the 9.20 train and found Mr. Durand and old Mr. Mourge 
waiting for us at the station. They took us in a carriage to 
the Palace, and old Mr. M. conducted us like a guide through 
the whole place. We spent two hours walking and then drove 
to the Durand's to lunch. 

There we had a delicious lunch with wines ; and a very 
pretty young lady (Franco-American) whose name I didn't 
catch, and we all went in a big carriage to the Trianons and the 
Court carriages. After that we drove an hour and a half to 
St. Germain and saw the celebrated terrace and had dinner 
at the Pavilion Henri IV. 

That was Mr. Mourge's dinner and it was magnificent; 
a private room, a centre piece of flowers, a fine menu ordered 
expressly, and four or five kinds of wine and champagne. The 
menus were given to us. They drank your health and wished 

you were there. 

242 



EN ROUTE 

You must write immediately on receipt of this and thank 
them for their attention. Mr. Durand said he hoped you 
would write to Mr. Mourge, he would be so pleased. We 
were on our feet nearly all day and very tired with the driv- 
ing, but the old man was perfectly fresh at the end. He is 
certainly wonderful, 85 years old! I felt almost ashamed to 
accept their hospitality, when we had never asked them to a 
meal, but Mr. Mourge just made out the program and we 
had to follow it. Mrs. Durand is quite gay and lively and wore 
a youthful hat and magnificent diamond earrings. 

At the opera we had a delightful evening, saw Salammbo 
finely sung by Rose Caron, and magnificently mounted, and 
between the acts walked through the foyer and about the 
house. The Paris Opera House is the most superbly decorated 
place you can imagine. 

It cost us to come from Paris here on the club train, $56, 
including our lunch and fees at hotel, omnibus, etc. The club 
train is the first fast one I have seen; Pullman cars, and we 
had a fine dinner, and a smooth trip across the channel from 
7.30 to nearly 9. I had neglected to leave out my wraps and 
an English lady lent me one so I didn't have to go below. She 
turned out to be an aunt of the cricketer, Mr. Wright, who 
came over with Lord Hawke's team last year. 

There was no difficulty about baggage; they examined it 
on the train, and only opened one trunk, so you see you can't 
believe what the newspapers say. We found rooms ready for 
us here and it was hard work to get up this morning. 

Love to all, 

Amy., M. D. R. 

Suggestions for reading matter. 
For Mrs. Rosengarten: 

The Upton Letters. 

From My College Window — A. Benton. 
The Golden Days of the Renaissance in Rome — Lanciani. 

243 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Roman Days — Victor Rydberg. 

J. Addington Symond's Autobiography. 

The Florence of Landor. 

The World Beautiful in Books. 

The World Beautiful. 

These are some of the books which we have enjoyed this win- 
ter. Roman Days is not in every library. I think the tran- 
lation is by Lindehn. You will delight in it I know. 

Sallie P. Brooks. 



THE JOURNEYS OF i897 



THE JOURNEYS OF i897 

After an interval of five years the inexorable desire for 
travel culminated in the fulfillment of long studied plans. In 
the meantime tours had been made in California, Canada and 
distant parts of the United States. 

The leading plans were based on a nearer study of pic- 
turesque England, especially the Southern Counties Devonshire 
and Cornwall and some of the most interesting Cathedrals. 

After these had been accomplished and visits made to Paris, 
thence to Brussels, Cologne and Hombourg and the "Kur," 
there came the memorable trip through the Black Forest and 
on to Sigmaringen. 

There the reception by Count and Countess Adelmann, 
the dinner given to their "American guests" by the Prince 
of Hohenzollern (Cousin of the Emperor and brother of the 
King of Rumania), and visits to most interesting historic 
castles, were followed by a journey to Munich and thence to 
Hohenstadt, the castle of Count Adelmann. 

After the return to Paris, short tours to Fontainebleau, 
Chantilly, Compiegne, Laon, Rouen and places memorable 
by their participation in the terrible War of 1914-1916, were 
made. 

Rouen and Havre were visited in company with Mrs. 
Thackara, daughter of General Wm. T. Sherman, and wife of 
the then Consul General of the United States at Havre. 

The journey homeward was completed in September, 1897, 
aboard the French Steamship "Touraine." F. H. R. 



INDEX TO LETTERS OF i897 

S. S. ST. PAUL 



Fellow Passengers June 

Bellamy Storer June 

Mme. Vere de Sapio. . . .June 
Meeting of Passengers. . .June 
F.H.R.made Secretary. . .June 
Resolutions to promote 
American Shipping. . . .June 

Southampton June 

Shanklin, Daisch's Hotel June 
Review of Jubilee Fleet June 
200 English, 12 foreign 

ships June 

Ryde, Isle of Wight June 

Newport June 

Cowes June 

Ventnor, Isle of Wight. . -June 
Bonchurch, Isle of Wight June 
Carisbrooke Castle, Isle 

of Wight June 

Salisbury, England June 

Concert in the Cathedral 

Grounds June 

Cedars of Lebanon June 

Bishop of Exeter and the 

service June 

Stonehenge June 

Old Sarum June 

Amesbury June 

Exeter June 

The Cathedral June 

Tombs of Bishops and 

Crusaders June 

Service in Cathedral June 

Penzance, Cornwall June 

Devonshire, Cornwall . . .June 

St. Michael's Mount June 

Land's End June 

"Dundagil by the Cornish 

Sea" June 

Primitive village June 

Logan Rock June 

Tintagel, Land of King 

Arthur June 

Land's End and Mine- 
head June 

British and Druid Ruins June 

Truro — St. Ives June 

Camelford June 

Mrs. R. sitting on Ar- 
thur's Seat 600 ft. 

above the sea July 

Ilfracombe July 

Clovelly and the New Inn July 



20, 


1897 


253 


20, 


1897 


2.S3 


21. 


1897 


255 


21, 


1897 


255 


22, 


1897 


257 


22, 


1897 


257 


23, 


1897 


257 


24, 


1897 


258 


24, 


1897 


258 


24, 


1897 


259 


24, 


1897 


259 


24. 


1897 


259 


25, 


1897 


259 


26, 


1897 


261 


26, 


1897 


261 


26, 


1897 


261 


26, 


1897 


262 


26, 


1897 


262 


26, 


1897 


262 


26, 


1897 


263 


26, 


1897 


263 


26, 


1897 


263 


26, 


1897 


263 


27, 


1897 


26 s 


27, 


1897 


265 


28, 


1897 


265 


28, 


1897 


26q 


29, 


1807 


268 


29, 


1897 


268 


29, 


1897 


268 


29, 


1897 


268 


SO, 


1897 


268 


30, 


1897 


268 


30, 


1897 


269 


30, 


1897 


271 


30, 


1897 


271 


30, 


1897 


269 


30, 


1897 


269 


30, 


1897 


271 


2, 


1897 


272 


2, 


1897 


272 


6, 


1897 


277 



Biddeford July 

Barnstable July 

Lynton July 

Lynmouth July 

Lorna Doone Country. . .July 

Porlock July 

Minehead July 

Exmoor Julv 

Bath July 

Wells July 

Wells Cathedral July 

Glastonbury Abbey July 

Oxford July 

Blenheim Castle July 

Fine weather in Corn- 
wall, Devonshire, Som- 
ersetshire, Wiltshire, 
Hampshire and part of 

Dorsetshire July 

Deer in Magdalen Gar- 
dens July- 
Christ Church College. . .July 

London July 

Eton and Harrow Cricket 

Match July 

Earl's Court July 

Welcome Club July 

Sunday on the Thames July 
The wonderful crowds. . .July 

Paddington July 

David Bispham July 

"Skindles" July 

Electric Launch for the 

day July 

Passing the "Locks". . . .July 

Cliveden July 

Cookham July 

Surley Hall July 

Windsor July 

Richmond July 

Star and Garter July 

Sheen House, former home 

of Count de Paris July 

Hotel Metropole, Lon- 
don July 

Weather like May July 

Eames in Nozze di Fig- 
aro, at the Opera July 

Henley Regatta July 

Indian Prince at Hotel. . .July 
Ride down Strand on bus July 
Chancery Lane, Lincoln 
Inn and High Holbornjuly 

249 



4, 


1897 


274 


4, 


1897 


274 


4, 


1897 


274 


4, 


1897 


274 


4, 


1897 


274 


6, 


1897 


276 


6, 


1897 


276 


6, 


1897 


276 


6, 


1897 


276 


6, 


1897 


276 


6, 


1897 


277 


8, 


1897 


279 


8, 


1897 


279 


8, 


1897 


279 



8, 1897 279 



1897 280 

1897 280 

1897 281 

1897 282 

1897 283 

1897 283 

1897 284 

1897 284 

1897 284 

1897 284 

1897 284 

1897 285 

1897 285 

1897 285 

1897 28,5 

1897 285 

1897 285 

1897 285 

1897 285 



12, 1897 2i 



1897 286 

1897 287 

1897 287 

1897 287 

1897 289 

I897 289 



17, 1897 289 



INDEX 



Irving and Terry at 
theatre July 17, 1897 

Supper at the "Savoy" July 17, 1897 

Folkstone, Boulogne and 

Paris July 21, 1897 

Hotel Normandie July 21, 1897 

Jardin des Tuilleries July 25, 1897 

Versailles and Mons. 

Mourgue July 25, 1897 

Fontainebleau and Bar- 
bizon July 25, 1897 

Scare about luggage July 28, 1897 

Jupiter and Pharamond, 

great trees July 30, 1897 298 

Cologne, Brussels and 

Exposition Cathedral. .July 30, 1897 

Journey up the Rhine July 30, 1897 

Frankfort July 30, 1897 

Hombourg an der Hohe Aug. 2, 1897 

Royal Victoria Hotel. . . .Aug. 2, 1897 

Kursaal Aug. 2, 1897 

Wiesbaden Aug. 2, 1897 

Saw Sons of my old Pro- 
fessor Aug. 2, 1897 

Fresenius and the Lab- 
oratory Aug. 6, 1897 

Invitations from Count 

andCountessAdelmannAug. 2, 1897 

Future Review by Em- 
peror William Aug. 6, 1897 

Baths and waters in the 

Kur Aug. 2, 1897 

The "Saalburg" — An- 
cient Roman Camp. . . .Aug. 6, 1897 

The old "Schloss," re- 
furnished for Emperor 
William's visit '. .Aug. 6, 1897 

Dinner on the Kurhaus 
Terrace Aug. 6, 1897 

Castle garden and curi- 
ous shaped Box Plants Aug. 6, 1897 

Hombourg, after a 5 
years' interval (1892). .Aug. 11, 1897 

Bicycle outing to the 

Tannenwald Aug. II, 1897 

Yagd House gaieties Aug. II, 1897 

Exhaustion from waters 

and baths Aug. II, 1897 

Dance at the Kursaal 
under patronage of the 
Duke of Cambridge . . .Aug. 13, 1897 

Fireworks and illumina- 
tions at the Kursaal. . .Aug. 13, 1897 

Heidelberg, Hausach and 

Triberg Aug. 20, 1897 

Sigmaringen on the Dan- 
ube , Aug. 19, 1897 

Meeting Countess Adel- 

mann Aug. 20, 1897 

Dinner given to us by 
Leopold of Hohenzol- 
lern, Cousin of Emperor 
William II Aug. 20, 1897 



Count (Hof Kammer 
290 President) and Countess 

292 Adelmann Aug. 20, 1897 314 

Strange sensations of a 

293 Richardson Aug. 20, 1897 314 

294 Riding in Royal Carriage. 
294 Description of our 

home at Hof Kammer 

294 Building Aug. 20, 1897 317 

Wonders of Schloss Hoh- 

295 enzollern Aug. 20, 1897 3 J 8 

297 Monastery of Beuron on 
the Danube Aug. 20, 1897 318 

298 Gregorian Music Aug. 20, 1897 318 

Pater Nicholas, head of 

301 the Benedictines Aug. 20, 1897 318 

301 Schloss Grueningen and 

301 the family Hornstein Aug. 20, 1897 319 

302 Count Hornstein's family 

302 book and his illumina- 
304 ted coats of arms, etc. Aug. 20, 1897 319 

303 Portraits and embroideriesAug. 20, 1897 320 
Sedan Chair to play 

303 bowls Aug. 20, 1897 321 

Graf Bruhl and Graf 

306 Gallen Aug. 20, 1897 321 

Menu of the Dinner Aug. 22, 1897 323 

303 Burg Hohenzollern at 
Hechingen Aug. 20, 1897 322 

307 Hohenstauffen Aug. 22, 1897 322 

Jamestown corn, toma- 

304 toes and flannel cakes Aug. 22, 1897 323 
Ulm, Hotel Drei MohrenAug. 29, 1897 33° 

305 Augsburg, Fugger Haus Aug. 29, 1897 330 

Munich Aug. 27, 1897 328 

Hotel Bayerischer Hof. . .Aug. 27, 1897 328 

307 Cosi Fan Tutti, Resi- 

denz Theatre Aug. 29, 1897 330 

307 Kaim Concert Aug. 29, 1897 331 

Tristan & Isolde, Vogl as 

307 Tristan Aug. 29, 1897 331 

Fledermaus Aug. 29, 1897 33 1 

309 Old Clock bought for 

library Aug. 29, 1 897 331 

309 Aalen Aug. 29, 1897 331 

310 Schloss Hohenstadt and 
its interesting services. 

310 Crypt Aug. 29, 1897 332 

Adelmannsfelden Aug. 29, 1897 334 

French Garden Aug. 29, 1897 334 

311 Tablet of Ancestor of 
Crusaders Aug. 29, 1897 334 

311 Great Moat and gold fish Aug. 29, 1897 336 

Souffle au Chocolat Aug. 29, 1897 338 

316 Wonderful Stair Case Aug. 29, 1897 338 

Hohenstadt and its 
311 dozen or more farms. .Aug. 31, 1897 339 

Stuttgart Aug. 31, 1897 339 

314 Freudenstadt in the 

Black Forest Sept. I, 1897 340 

Tubingen, scene of hus- 
band's University ex- 
314 periences in 1869-70. Sept. 3, 1897 341 

250 



INDEX 



Drive through the Black 
Forest Sept. 

Oppenau Sept. 

Strasbourg Sept. 

Paris, Normandy Hotel . . Sept. 

Rainy weather Sept. 

Unable to go to Vosges 
Mountains on account 
of rain Sept. 

American Church, Paris . Sept. 

Costs of dresses, etc., 
very high Sept. 

Meal at the "Diner de 
Paris"..... Sept. 

Compiegne, Pierrefonds . . Sept. 

Galleries of the Louvre, 
Luxembourg, Ver- 
sailles and others Sept. 

Latin Quarter and Ecole 
Polytechnic Sept. 

Paris Sept. 



3, 1897 341 

3, i897 341 

3, i897 341 

3, 1897 341 

3, 1897 341 



9, 1897 343 

9, 1897 343 

9, 1897 344 

9, 1897 344 

9, 1897 344 



9, 1897 345 

9, 1897 345 
9, 1897 344 



Palace 01 the Senate Sept. 9, 

Laon, Rheims Sept. 14, 

Description of Com- 
piegne, etc Sept. 14, 

Laon Sept. 14, 

Cathedral at Rheims and 

Roman Arch Sept. 14, 

Paris Sept. 17, 

Visit from Sigmund Adel- 

mann Sept.19, 

Journey to Rouen, meet- 
ing there Mrs. Thack- 
ara, daughter of Gen'l 
Sherman and the in- 
teresting things in 

Rouen Sept.19, 

Visit to the Thackaras at 
Havre, where he is Con- 
sul General Sept.14, 

Aboard S. S. Touraine. . .Sept.24, 
Rough voyage 



1897 345 

1897 346 

1897 346 

1897 346 

1897 346 

1897 348 

1897 350 



1897 3So 



1897 348 
1897 350 




EN ROUTE 

U.S. M.S. "St. Paul" 
Wed. June 16, 1897, 11 A. M. 
Off Sandy Hook. 
Dear Boys, 

Thus far everything most satisfactory — sea calm as a mill 
pond and Mother fixing state room as if she were to stay per- 
manently aboard. Lots of acquaintances. Mama shed a tear 
of gratitude for your good-bye greetings. Love to you both 
from us, 

Yr. aff. 

F. H. R. 

Aboard the "St. Paul," 

Sunday, June 20th, 1897. 
My Dear Boys, 

Here we are rolling off 20 miles an hour in midocean and 
more than half over to Europe and your Mother and I have 
been to every meal, on deck all day and far into the night and 
sleeping like tops, and your Mother eating strawberries and 
soft shell crabs, pastry and shad, lobster and all the indi- 
gestible things imaginable. 

Our state room is most comfortable and convenient and 
we have an excellent place at table on the port side in an alcove 
next to Hon. Bellamy Storer, Minister to Belgium, and we 
have become quite friendly with him and his family. We find 
a number of friends aboard and there are lots of nice young 

253 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

girls. The first two days were fairly smooth and sunshiny, 
but Friday and yesterday were rainy, cold and a heavy sea. 
The ship goes ahead, however, making about 460 miles a day 
on the Southern track to avoid icebergs and fog. 

We have had no fog and see no ships or live things. I 
wish you both were with us, I think of you every minute and 
shall miss you both. 

Our plans are just as unsettled as ever and we will have to 
write you later when our intentions are fixed. 

We have a lot of Bishops aboard and about thirty Phila- 




ABOARD S. S. ST. PAUL, JUNE, 1897 



delphians. Mr. Wm. P. Clyde with a lot of daughters, Mr. 
Frank Firth with a party. I believe you both would have en- 
joyed the trip, and Sam would have a taste of the sea under 
good auspices. The St. Paul is as firm and staunch as a rock 
and I was scared a bit at her big roll, but she recovers so 
steadily and firmly I quite enjoy it now. 

There are two bright Japanese merchants, some French 
folks who amuse Mary, and people from all over the States. 
I talk a good deal with the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court 
of Wisconsin, a very cheery, intelligent man. The service is 
very good and folks can eat and drink all the time. The young 

254 



EN ROUTE 

men aboard don't have much fun, there being no one to lead 
off. I gave my letter to the Captain, but we have seen little 
or nothing of him and fortunately have no need to bother him. 
I will write more as we approach Southampton. Writing 
is not easy with the ship shaking. 

Monday, 21st, 3 P. M. 
Dear Boys, 

I can scarcely realize that to-morrow is our last day and 
I have never been sick. We have seen and passed several 
ships. The Barringers and the son of Mrs. Bellamy Storer 
named Nichols, who is a Harvard graduate and has just 
taken a fellowship at Johns Hopkins, are the only young men 
I know, except young Davies, who came up to speak to me and 
introduced me to all the family, and they are very nice. The 
Storers have a daughter who married the Marquis de Cham- 
brun, who lives in Washington. We find Mr. Storer is first 
cousin to the Tysons. 

There is a prize fighter on board by the name of Sharkey, 
who gave a performance of punching the bag this p. m. He 
seems to attract the boys and I saw young Davies walking 
with him. There is to be a concert to-night and Mme. de Vere 
Sapio who sang the time we crossed five years ago is going 
to sing, and a French lady is going to play. To-morrow will 
be our last day and we shall be busy packing and getting our 
things in shape. Your Father says he has no plans, but he 
has decided he wants to go to the Isle of Wight all the same. 
We miss you very much 

M. D. R. 

Nearing Southampton, 

June 1897. 
My Dear Boys, 

Here we are speeding along at a 20 mile an hour "clip" — 
467 miles to-day, the average run and neither your Mother 
nor I have had a moment's discomfort, on the contrary we are 
just from dinner after a meal that would have suited you both. 

255 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

The hours fly by and yet we do little. Sharkey the prize 
fighter is always "en evidence" and to-day gave an exhibition 
in his green fighting trunks punching the bag on the Deck. 
Then there are lots of nice young girls and fellows and every- 
body well and amiable. To-night there is to be a concert for 
the Seamen's Orphans' Society, beginning with Mr. Storerand 
ending with a clergyman, but Mr. Sharkey takes the next to 
the last number. So time goes and we look forward to land- 
ing on Wednesday noon. 

To-day I made the tour of the hold of the ship with the 
first officer, on his inspection, a favor no one else has had and 
I was greatly pleased with the wonderful arrangements and 
the cleanliness and good discipline. There isn't an unpleasant 
odor anywhere and everywhere the tidiness and cleanliness 
are pleasing. 

While we have head winds, rain and a heavy sea, the old 
ship plows right through them and this evening is wet and 
cloudy. I don't pretend to keep a diary, so you will have to 
depend on our telling you of things in detail on our return in 
September. 

Your Mother is like a young girl, so enthusiastic and well 
and making plans for our journeys, so I rest content and let 
her have her way. 

So good-night and accept our deepest expression of love 
and good wishes to you both for lots of happiness and health. 
Tell my brothers of our good fortune in escaping illness and 
in meeting nice people. 

As ever your affectionate 

F. H. R 

Tuesday, June 22nd, 1897, 9.30 P. M. 
Approaching Port in a fog. 

U.S. M.S. "St. Paul" 
Dear Harry, 

Our journey will be ended at noon to-morrow and a happy 
one it has been indeed! While we have had rain, are now in 

a fog and the wind blew a half gale for a day or two, Mary 

256 



EN ROUTE 

and I have been wonderfully well and never missed a single 
meal and the good ship St. Paul is as staunch as a rock. 

I have had the good luck, through Griscom's courtesy and 
on the coat tails of Frank Firth, President of the Erie and 
Western Transportation Co., and Wm. P. Clyde, the head of 
the Clyde Line, of seeing this ship in every nook and cranny, 
and am delighted with the marvels of construction. 

To-night there was the usual meeting to thank the officers 
of the ship for our safe journey thus far. Hon. Bellamy Storer, 
Minister to Belgium, opened, and the Chief Justice of the 
Supreme Court of Wisconsin presided and I acted as Secre- 
tary. All the passengers were in the Saloon and we had some 
good resolutions and rattling speeches from Bishop Neely of 
Maine, Judge Cassady of Wisconsin and Storer. As the reso- 
lutions will be spread pretty wide by the S. S. Co., should any 
letters come to me at the office as Secretary, read them and, 
if of any use, have copies sent to C. A. Giiscom, as Clyde and 
others want to start a movement for legislation to promote 
ships carrying the American flag. 

We will probably land at Southampton to-morrow noon 
if this fog don't interfere and go to the Isle of Wight for a day 
and then on to Cornwall and Devonshire and later to London. 

I have met a few interesting people, Storer being at our 
table with his wife and son and very companionable, his wife 
being a daughter of Nicholas Longworth of Cincinnati, the 
son a bright fellow who has taken a fellowship at Johns Hop- 
kins University. 

It is hard to realize we are not going into Newport Harbor 
in a fog instead of being out 200 miles from shore in the "Broad 
Atlantic," it is so smooth and people so cheery. 

Your aff. brother, 

F. 



17 






ENGLAND 

Daisch's Hotel, Shanklin, Isle of Wight, England 
My Dear Boys, Thursday, June 24, 1897. 

Here we are, busy sightseeing and everything so beautiful 
and new to us. Your Mother is wonderfully well and rested 




SOUTHAMPTON 



well at Southampton. I went with Mr. Page to see the town 

there, saw four cricket Matches and the town was gay with 

flags for the Queen's Jubilee and at least 500 yachts, big and 

258 



ENGLAND 

little, in the harbor. We made a tour around the war ships, 
200 English and a dozen foreign, including the Brooklyn 
which was most imposing of all. 

This morning we took the boat to Cowes where we saw 
Goelet's Mayflower at anchor, a splendid boat, thence still 
on our pretty little steamer to Ryde Pier and then by train 
to this exquisite place. Newport is just a little reminder of 
it and yet this is so old and so perfect it is wonderful. 

We met a party coaching who had crossed on the steamer 
with us, and we are to drive in a few minutes to Ventnor, where 
we spend to-night and dine with them. To-morrow we will 
take a coach ride and be back in Southampton by Sunday and 
thence to Salisbury. Oh how I wish you were with us to enjoy 
it all, altho it is a bit hot. Your Mother joins me in best love 
to you both. Love to your uncles. «, rr F H "R 

White Hart Hotel, 
Salisbury, Eng., June 25, 1897. 
Dear Sam, 

Here we are under the shadow of the Cathedral after such 
a two days as I never had before. We saw Southampton with 
over 1000 Yachts, went around the 200 warships and went 
yesterday noon to the Isle of Wight, lunching at Shanklin, 
going through Bonchurch to a delicious Hotel, coaching to-day 
to Carisbrooke Castle and going all over it, thence to New- 
port, the Capital of the Isle of Wight, took train to Cowes, 
saw Mayflower and Valiant, and back to Southampton and 
here we are well and not tired. 

If you were along we would be completely happy. 

Affy. F. H. R. 

White Hart Hotel, 
Salisbury, Eng., June 26, 1897. 
Dear Laura, 

Since writing you on board ship, so much has happened 
I don't know how to begin. We all separated on landing at 

259 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Southampton in a hot sun. We went to Radley's hotel, and 
stayed over night, and left at n a. m. next day for Isle of 
Wight. The crowds of people at Southampton were terrific. 
Frank and I had intended to come back Friday and stop over 
night there en route here, but couldn't get a bed on account 
of the crowds coming to see the Naval Review. 

While I unpacked trunks, &c. Frank went on a three hours' 
trip around the battleships, and didn't get home until after 
ten at night. I was sorry not to go, but of course had to give 




DAISCH'S HOTEL, SHANKLIN, ISLE OF WIGHT 

up as I was not feeling well enough. So the next day we took 
the boat for Cowes and Ryde and I saw them all, without any 
trouble. I thought ourWar Ship Brooklyn looked the best of all. 
We took the train at Ryde Pier and went to Shanklin and 
this time went to Daisch's hotel in the village and had a deli- 
cious lunch and Frank went out after, down the Chine and 
along the Esplanade and I rested. Words fail to describe the 
hotel, the oldest on the Isle of Wight. It had the most per- 
fect roses climbing to the roof and such vines ! And everywhere 
growing on roofs and walls, is a dark pink flower they call a 

weed and makes an exquisite effect of color. Also a yellow 

260 



ENGLAND 

lichen and such gardens with hedges and terraces and the pea- 
cocks strutting about. 

Instead of taking the train, we had a carriage and drove 
over to Ventnor through Bonchurch and Luecombe. It was 
certainly a paradise on earth. We stopped at the old church 
at Bonchurch, built in 1070, with Norman remains and such 
a churchyard and flowers and trees. Frank got excellent pic- 




BONCHURCH, ISLE OF WIGHT 



tures of Shanklin thatched village and Bonchurch. At Vent- 
nor Frank was glad to see his friend Mr. Firth and party at 
the "Crab and Lobster," the most perfect hotel you can 
imagine, delicious beds, linen sheets, perfect service, and such 
a restful place. 

We arranged to go the next morning at 10.30 to Caris- 
brooke Castle by coach. So the next morning a swell coach 
appeared with four horses and trumpeter and we all piled on, 
baggage and all, and had the most heavenly ride of fifteen 
miles across the Island to Carisbrooke Castle, which we saw 
thoroughly while lunch was being prepared at the "Eight 



261 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Bells" in the village. As I had been all over the Castle before, 
I kept quiet and enjoyed looking at everything, and then we 
went down to a perfect lunch and were surprised to find the 
table set out on a lawn, like velvet, behind the little Inn and 
great towering trees overhead. We revelled in strawberries 
there and everywhere and then we took the train at Newport 
for Cowes and there we found the crowd again. 

We got over to Southampton about five o'clock and to 
Radley's, where I had left the trunks. So I started two trunks 




THE CRAB AND LOBSTER, VENTNOR 



for London and then we got off for Salisbury and arrived here 
at about eight o'clock. On our arrival we found that there 
was a concert in the Cathedral grounds and illumination of 
the Bishop's palace, so of course we went at once. You can 
imagine how the great Cathedral and the cedars of Lebanon, 
looked in the artificial light, altho at 9.30 there was still day- 
light. Such turf cannot be seen out of England, it is so fine 
and springs up like a velvet carpet. 

*/ This morning we all went to service at 10 and the full 

262 



ENGLAND 



choir and the Bishop of Exeter and we ten Americans con- 
stituted the congregation, and we sat in the choir. The sing- 
ing and intoning were like from angels and such fine fugue 
music. Then we were conducted all over the Cathedral. 

As soon as we came back, I had decided we would drive to 
Stonehenge as it was a grey day and I wanted to see it under 
such a sky. So we were off again in a drag, and went by way 
of Old Sarum, the ancient British camp, and afterwards 
Roman, which was the beginning of Salisbury. Then we went 
out to Amesbury and wandered around the old Abbey Church 




LUNCH AT CARISBROOKE CASTLE AT "EIGHT BELLS INN" 

and a beautiful private park and quaint old houses. We only 
had a few minutes for lunch at the "George," and it was so 
good, cold meats and salad and hot potatoes and a hot Goose- 
berry tart with cream. Frank was the last to get into the 
brake with his mouth full and then we were off to Stonehenge. 
Instead of being on a low flat plain, it is on high rolling 
country, but bare and lull of little hillocks called "barrows," 
which were Saxon burial places. The great stones are some- 
thing wonderful, looming up against the dark sky, the mystery 

263 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

of the ages, as there is no positive knowledge as to how they 
got there when there is no appearance of stone, or what they 
were put there for. Standing on the sacrificial altar and look- 
ing through between two great stones, one, situated at a little 
distance, comes up directly in the middle and marks where 
the sun rises on the longest day of the year, June 21st. 

We drove off right over the grassy downs and the effect 
of Stonehenge against the sky was immense, too overpowering 
to either realize or describe. It and the Sphinx remain the 
unsolvable mysteries of all time. 




SALISBURY CATHEDRAL 



We came back direct to the Railway station and had a good 
rest and dinner and it has rained hard. Frank went to the 
Cathedral Close and took some pictures. To-morrow we go 
to the Sunday morning service and at 2 p. m. go to Exeter, 
where we shall be over night, and leave late in the afternoon 
for Penzance. 

Frank is like a boy out of school and calls himself a per- 
sonally conducted tour and refuses to lift his fingers to do 
anything but take photographs and pay the bills. 

Love to all, 

Amy, M. D. R. 

264 



ENGLAND 

Hotel Salisbury, June 27th, 1897. 
Dear Cliff, 

Here we are at a typical English Tavern, have been here 
since Friday night. We arrived from the Isle of Wight in 
time to dine and attend the Bishop's Concert in the private 
grounds of his palace. Since then we have been busy doing 
the Cathedral and Stonehenge and to-day we go to full ser- 
vice at the Cathedral and leave for Exeter at 2 p. m. to see 
the See there. 

Your Mother is just as indefatigable as ever and happy 
all the time and full of adjectives of admiration and desire 
to learn of the history and origin of things. The climate here 
is most enjoyable to me, altho the sky is dark and foggy and 
even rainy at times 

We will get to Penzance to-morrow and may go even to 
Land's End which as you can see by the map is pretty near the 
"jumping off place." Distances are absurdly small here and 
yet it is as much of a job to move on as if for a transatlantic tour. 

Yrs. affectionately, F. H. R. 

Monday, June 28th, 1897. 
Royal Clarence Hotel, 

Exeter. 
Dear Boys, 

As you see by this heading I am sitting in a lovely bay 
window overlooking Exeter Cathedral, where we have spent 
the last hour seeing such beautiful things, tombs of bishops, 
dating from nth century, and crusaders lying inside their 
stone coffins. 

Your Father and I went to service yesterday at Salisbury 
Cathedral with a young New Yorker studying Anthropology. 
We went to Stonehenge and we came on here by the 2 o'clock 
train, which started at 3 and got here at six, just in time for 
a delicious dinner, and we were pleased to find ourselves in 
this quaint old Inn and near the Cathedral. 

We rushed dinner to get to the 7 p. m. service, and en- 
joyed it with eye and ear. It is so different from Salisbury 

265 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 




EXETER CATHEDRAL 




INTERIOR OF EXETER CATHEDRAL 
266 



ENGLAND 

thatpt is impossible to compare them. The former is enormous 
and very lofty, giving a distinctly cold impression, surrounded 
by cedars of Lebanon and exquisite parks, while this has very 
little ground about it but is much more decorated and re- 
minds me very much of the French Cathedrals, mixed with 
Oxford. 

The Bishop's chair reaches to the roof and is the finest 
wood carving in the world and is also unique in possessing a 
minstrel's gallery. After the service last evening we went about 
the town through the High St. which was thronged with peo- 




PENZANCE 



pie and your Father thought it looked more like a German 
than an English town. And this morning he went hard at 
work with his camera. 

On our way to the Palace Gardens we were attracted by a 
very fine old wooden gate closing an arch way and peeped in to 
find a little court with most beautiful quaint windows and doors 
and a Latin inscription, and took some pictures of it. The verger 
of the Cathedral told us that it had been a part of the original 
Bishop's House, the one who rebuilt the Norman Cathedral 
and had it decorated. Tell Ellen we are revelling in goose- 

267 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

berry tart with Devonshire cream and get her to make you 
one. With much love from both of us, 

Your aff. Mother, M. D. R. 

Penzance, Cornwall, England, 

June 29, 1897. 
Dear Boys, 

Can you imagine us here, within a few miles of Land's 
End, the S. W. Corner of England ? Well we left Exeter this 
afternoon after seeing the beautiful Cathedral built in 1160 
and the quaint old town and came through the most exquisite 
scenery of Devonshire and Cornwall. We will visit St. Mich- 
aels Mount (a miniature Mont St. Michel), Land's End, etc., 
and then go for our coaching tour up to North Cornwall and 
Devonshire and to Bath and Wells and then up to London. 
We are so on the go we can't do much writing. We both send 
best love and wishes, awaiting good news from you. 

Your aff. F. H. R. 

WharnclifTe Arms Hotel, 
Tint a gel, North Cornwall. 
June 30th, 1897. 
Dear Boys, 

I began a letter to you at Exeter and was called away in 
the middle of it, and fear it is now lost, as I put it in the guide 
book which we are constantly using. 

I have been revelling to-day in this King Arthur land in 
old stone coffins, and relics of Druid times, and in the Castle 
"Dundagil by the Cornish Sea" and no words can describe 
the beauty of this coast, and the wonderful color effects in 
the sky; it is much finer than Jersey and Guernsey, while re- 
sembling them very much. 

This village is so primitive one might almost call it prime- 
val. There is no wood to be seen on the outside of the houses. 
The door frames and window frames are stone and slate and 
the cottages appear so much like the rock formation that crops 

out between the turf that if it were not for the chimneys and 

268 



ENGLAND 

smoke thereof you wouldn't know they were houses. And such 
hills and gorges and chasms! 

King Arthur's Castle is partly on a high cliff on the main- 
land and partly on an island which is connected by a causeway 
to the other somewhat like the one at Sark, only much smaller, 
as in old times a drawbridge joined the two. I hope your 
Father's pictures will turn out well, so you can get a little 
idea of what we have seen, altho' no picture can do justice 
to the coloring. 

We are arranging to coach to Clovelly to-morrow and will 




m 





LAND'S END, CORNWALL 

have a long day's ride, but your Father likes to move on even 

faster than I do, but we have no interest in the sort of people 

staying in these places as they are the regulation funereal sort. 

Of course we are both anxious to get our first letters which we 

expect at Ilfracombe in a day or two. Your Father wrote 

you from Penzance and since then we have driven round Land's 

End and the Logan rock and it was very interesting, the coast 

very fine and full of interesting British and Druid remains 

like old crosses and cromlechs, &c. There were so many places 

I would have liked to stay at, Truro and St. Ives, &c. 

We saw some amusing names on the grave stones or tablets 

269 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

in Salisbury Cathedral. I remember Money Fishe, Post- 
humous Chapeau and Pothecarye Jones. I heard a man ask 
a woman near Penzance if it had rained where she had been 
that day and she said, "oh no, just a jump or two :" and the com- 
mon people say, "I'll look after he, sir;" "There's nothing 
near we, ma'am." There are a good many young people 
travelling on their wheels, but how they ever get up these 
hills I don't understand. 




LOGAN ROCK, CORNWALL 

With much love and hoping to hear from you soon, with 
kind remembrances to the girls. I am getting stronger every 
day. This is the climate for me. With love, 

Your AfT. Mother, M. D. R. 

Tintagel, Wharncliffe Arms Hotel, 

Cornwall June 30th, 1897. 
Dear Laura, 

The last day of June finds us in this heavenly spot, where 

I have longed to come for years. When we drove over in a 

270 



ENGLAND 

wagonette from Camelford it was eight o'clock and bright 
daylight, but the most beautiful evening sky effects you can 
imagine. The sweet smells from the flowers and hedges are 
almost overpowering and the air is always cool even when the 
sun is hot. This morning dawned clear and we took a pony 
cart to go first to the old Saxon church and afterwards to 
King Arthur's castle, "Dundagil by the Cornish Sea." But 
it came on to rain as the English say and I with the pony cart 
hurried back. 

You would have screamed with fear if you had seen the 
hills I went down and up. At 5 o'clock this P. M. it cleared and 
I with Frank went down the gorge to the little cottage where the 
key is kept. Frank said it was no use for me to do it, that the 
walk down the valley and back again would be more than I 
could do, but off we started and took the guide and went up. 

Perhaps you remember Mr. Wm. T. Richards' pictures 
of Tintagel. There is a high headland with part of the castle, 
the old Saxon keep and beyond that a sort of island attached 
to the mainland by a small causeway. In former times the 
two parts were connected by a drawbridge 200 or 300 feet up 
in the air. The finest part of the Maine coast is child's play 
compared to this coast. Frank's pictures will be the only 
way we can describe it for if I wrote every day I couldn't begin 
to tell you what we see and do. 

This is the dearest little hotel, and the food dainty and 
delicious, all but the coffee, which we put up with. Land's 
End and this place take one back to the stone age. Everything 
is stone — the houses, the roofs, the fences, everything, and 
the chimneys are very peculiar and look like old women in 
cloaks as you will see by Frank's pictures. There is a little 
one-story stone house struggling down the street with slate 
roof and high chimneys and bunches of yellow flowers grow- 
ing on the roof and a porch like a church has. 

The sunset is so fine we must go out for a while. Last 

night at 8.30 the sun was still high up in the sky and it was 

light at 10.30. There are a lot of stiffys in the house, clergy- 

271 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

men's widows, &c, and there is the general effect of a funeral 
having recently taken place in the house, but it don't bother 
us as we are always moving on. It is after nine p. m. and 
Frank is sitting out of doors reading. I am afraid to do so as 
I came in so warm from my climbing and it gets so cold out, 
I would surely take cold. 

There is only one street and the babies out of these stone 
houses are still up and playing in the street with low necked 
dresses and aprons and short sleeves. If I could stay in this 
climate a month I would get as strong as an ox, but we should 
want our own party, we would have the horrors otherwise. 
I have been a perfect wonder to myself to-day. We get our 
first letters at Ilfracombe in two days. I sent the sheet of 
colored coats of arms to little Laura and thought it would 
interest her to keep the headings of these letters. 

Hoping you are all well, Amy., M. D. R. 

Royal Clarence Hotel, 
Ilfracombe, North Devonshire, 

July 2nd, 1897, Friday, 10.30 P. M. 
Dear Cliff and Sam, 

Your first letters reached us here and were as great a pleas- 
ure as any enjoyed here. I was truly glad to hear you both 
were well and happy and enjoying life in your own way. We 
too have had a glorious series of surprises in the beautiful 
places we have visited around the whole South coast of Eng- 
land, to Land's End, even to the Cathedral towns and to Tin- 
tagel and Clovelly. 

Your Mother keeps me busy firing off* photographs and 
she is as nimble as a kitten climbing King Arthur's seat, 600 ft. 
above the sea, on dizzy paths and over rocks and rejoicing in 
long coaching tours. Cornwall and Devonshire are surprises 
to us in every way and I can't begin to tell you about them, 
but we will have lots to talk about on our return. 

This place is said to be very interesting and we are to stay 

here till Sunday and then Coach to Lynton, Tuesday to Bath 

272 



ENGLAND 

and Wells and we ought to be in London by Friday. We will 
be in London for a week or ten days, so letters written up 
to the 4th of July will reach us at Morgan's. 

The coast between Land's End and Minehead defies any 
efforts to describe it. Tintagel I wrote from, but Ilfracombe 
we didn't like, it was a sort of Atlantic City; people, like ants, 
all over the hills, so we got to Lynton and stopped in the 
most perfect Hotel and found the rocks and cliffs magnificent. 
I feel now that we have seen something of English country 




KING ARTHUR'S SEAT, TINTAGEL, CORNWALL 

and know of no coast scenery to equal what we have been 
through. We got our first letters at Ilfracombe and were so 
thankful to know you are all well and that nothing has hap- 
pened. We go to Bath to-morrow and spend Thursday there 
and will be in London Friday, probably will try at the Metro- 
pole first and then Victoria or Grand. We expect to go to 
Glastonbury this p. m. and back to dinner. Your Mother 
joins me in tenderest love and best wishes. 

Your affectionate, F. H. R. 

Clovelly is truly one of the most beautiful and romantic 

spots on earth, and you must visit there some day. 

18 273 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Valley of Rocks Hotel, 

Lynton, North Devon. 
July 4th, 1897, Sunday 9 P. M. 
Dear Boys, 

From the heading you see we are in a lovely hotel almost 
by ourselves, but with views and surroundings that are 
beyond description for grandeur ol rocks, dizzy heights and ex- 
quisite coloring. We left Clovelly Friday afternoon for Bidde- 
ford, dined there and took the train to Barnstable and on to 
Ilfracombe, which we found to be a biggish place and with bad 




THE WALK FROM LYNMOUTH TO LYNTON 

luck we struck a forlorn hotel, altho several fine ones were here. 

The views were splendid but we had enough of it by Satur- 
day afternoon and took a carriage for this place, twenty miles 
away, and here we are. We have gone to Lynmouth by an 
inclined railway down 600 feet to the water's edge and then 
walked back. This afternoon we drove many miles through 
wonderful glens and skirted Exmoor to Lorna Doone's Valley 
and saw so many interesting things I cannot describe them. 

To-morrow at nine we coach 20 miles to Minehead, lunch 

there and take train to Bath. This will take us out of the 

274 






ENGLAND 

coast scenery and we shall not be sorry, for we have seen so 
much our heads begin to whirl. In fact on the walk this after- 
noon to the Valley of Rocks along a very sharp declivity I 
had to turn back I got so dizzy. Your Mother persisted and 
described the rocks as wonderful. 

But this the 4th of July, such a noisy day at home, was dis- 
mal to us for we don't know a soul and other folks appear to 
be in the same box and wander around like lost spirits. Your 
Mother is just as keen for moving on and doing more trayel- 




GOING THROUGH LORNA DOONE VALLEY 

ling as ever. We hope to be in London by Thursday at latest 
and stay there a week or ten days and then go to the 
Continent. 

As we get no news here to-day I am impatient to hear of 
the Boat Race yesterday and hope U. of P. won. Your Mother 
joins in love to you. 

Affectionately yrs, 

F. H. R. 

275 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Swan Hotel, Wells, Somerset. 

July 6th, 1897. 
Dear Boys, 

I have written to you and Aunt Laura several times since 
I began the enclosed letter at Exeter, which I have been carry- 
ing around intending each day to finish it, but we have trav- 
elled so rapidly that for days I couldn't get a moment to write. 
01 course it was very delightful to travel by driving and we 
have thoroughly enjoyed it, but after 10 days without any 




DOOR OF CATHEDRAL AT BATH 



let up we both feel like getting to London and seeing people 

and sleeping more than one or two nights in the same Hotel. 

We were quite surprised last night when Basil Miles and young 

Harrison walked in at Bath. 

Yesterday's journey was an exhausting one and we feel 

like resting to-day. We left Lynton at 9 a. m. on the top of 

a coach and came to Minehead through the Doone country 

by Porlock and over Exmoor. We had a typical English 

driver, full ot spirit and fun, told us stories in Devonshire 

276 



ENGLAND 

dialect and amused us immensely. The only drawbacks were 
clouds of dust. You can't imagine what sights we were when 
we got to Minehead and the joy of going into a clean, cool 
hotel to find lunch ready, but only 20 minutes to get it in and 
get brushed and washed for the train. However we managed 
it and after changing into three trains got here in time for 7 
o'clock dinner, got a big comfortable room looking out on the 
Cathedral and have been sightseeing all morning. 

I wish I could give you some idea of the wonderful things 




WELLS CATHEDRAL 



I have seen. Clovelly is unique, nothing like it in the world, 
and the most fantastic place you can imagine. It would be 
just like a scene in a theatre, if it were not for the blue ocean 
and old pier down at the bottom. We stayed at the New Inn 
(no one knows how old it is) half-way down the street and it 
was all I could do to get down to it. 

Our baggage was brought down on sledges which have 
polished off the fee little-cobble stones which pave the streets 

so that it is hard to keep a footing. The street is about 8 ft. 

277 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 




AT CLOVELLY, CORNWALL 




NEW INN, CLOVELLY 
278 



ENGLAND 

wide and the houses are built on a level, each with its little 
garden full of flowers enclosed with a railing and every window 
gay with color. Our hotel had a piazza instead of garden on 
which we sat and watched everything. 

Excursions arrive by steamer and landing by little boats 
on the beach, they swarmed all over the place thro the middle 
of the day. The Hobby Drive is along the edge of the Cliff 
3 miles, at least 800 or 900 above the sea, going through beauti- 
ful trees and farms as dark as the Wissahickon and ends at 
the top of the village street. Even the sailors are dressed as 
they were in Pinafore, exactly. An old one over 80 years be- 
longed to our hotel and was very amusing. 

Oxford, England, July 8, 1897. 
Dear Cliff and Sam, 

Here we are, though not on your Mother's schedule. She 
consented to oblige me by coming here from Bath, it being 
but little out of our way. 

I wrote you last, I think from Ilfra combe or Lynton. We 
left there for Wells and stayed in Welis two nights and a day, 
and saw the Cathedral, Bishops gardens and the ruins of 
Glastonbury. We left Wells yesterday early and went to 
Bath, saw the Cathedral there and drove about the city and 
your Mother bathed in the old Roman Baths like a loyal 
archseologian as she is, and this morning we came here. I 
soon walked her legs off and those of a guide, took pictures of 
many bits and now, 5 p. m., your Mother is gone to Christ 
Church Cathedral to a service there. To-morrow we go to 
see Blenheim Castle and leave late in the afternoon for Lon- 
don, where we are to be lodged for a couple of weeks at the 
Hotel Metropole. 

So now you have a history of our itinerary up to date and 
a little ahead. 

We have been immensely favored by the weather during 
our canter through Cornwall, Devonshire and Somersetshire, 
Wiltshire, Hampshire and part of Dorsetshire, and we feel we 

279 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

have a fair idea of these parts of England. Of course we have 
to depend on each other for company, for we fail to find any 
congenial English or American travellers. However, after to- 
morrow we shall meet lots of familiar faces in London and later 
on in France and Germany. With the Photos I have made 
put into an album I will be fairly able to give you a good idea 
of our journeys for I am incapable of writing my impressions, 
they crowd so quickly on my mind. 




HALL AT OXFORD 



Oxford far exceeds my ideals, but I am confused with the 
innumerable chapels in the colleges and commons halls and 
exquisite architecture everywhere, altho all lifeless now as 
there are no students about. To see the Deer in Magdalen 
and the beautiful grounds and flowers in Trinity and the 
wonders of Christ Church College upsets one for the tameness 
of U. of P. and other home Universities. So with love from 
both of us and best wishes for your health and happiness, 



Yr. affectionate, 



F. H. R. 



280 






ENGLAND 

Hotel Metropole, London. 
July nth, 1897. 
My Dear Boys, 

Here we are in London ! And enjoyed with great zest the 
batch of letters awaiting us, telling of all your doings at home. 
We had a most enjoyable visit to Oxford and Blenheim Palace 
and came on with some acquaintances to London. 

We find this hotel most enjoyable. Mactear and family 




TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND THE HOTEL METROPOLE, LONDON 

have been very attentive. They have cut out a lot of things 
for us, among others a trip on the Thames to-day. They made 
many inquiries about you both and seemed to remember 
Cliff with pleasure. 

At the pace we are going I think a week or ten days here 
will be ample and we shall soon be moving on to Paris and 
Hombourg. We are having delightful weather and moon- 
light and we watch the myriads of hansoms and busses and 
vehicles with the crowds of well-dressed folks and wonder 
where they all come from. In fact I am more than usually im- 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

pressed with London's greatness, such buildings and such 
evidences of immense wealth! 

However, I don't want to be spoiled by it all and won't 
get cleaned out by the extravagances rampant here. 

We read in the papers of the hot wave prevailing in the 
United States and hope both of you have the good sense to try 
and make yourselves comfortable by seeking a cool climate. 

Well I must run now and only thank you both for your 




THE ETON-HARROW CRICKET MATCH 



goodness in writing so fully and frequently and regret we can- 
not reciprocate, but we are on the go constantly. We must 
run for a train at Paddington so good-bye for to-day. 

Any, F. H. R. 

I saw the Eton vs. Harrow match yesterday. A great 
sight. 

Hotel Metropole, London, 
July 1 2th, 1897. 
Dear Laura, 

I take advantage of our first evening at home to write a 
line. London tires one so it is hard to get up courage to write. 

I don't remember where I last wrote from, but think it was 

282 



ENGLAND 

Wells. From there we went to Bath and enjoyed the quaint 
old town. I took a bath in the grand Pump Room built over 
and around the old Roman Baths and enjoyed it, but it made 
me ache like fury all night so I couldn't sleep. 

Frank decided he wanted to see Oxford — so we went there 
Thursday morning and Frank worked so hard at the colleges 
he couldn't sleep all night and made up his mind that his 
mind was failing him. However he recovered enough to go 
out to Blenheim the next morning. 

I love Oxford and Frank was delighted with it, also Blen- 
heim was very fine, but not at all old-fashioned. The Duchess 




BLENHEIM 

of Marlborough was not there, so we got a look at the State 

rooms or parlors, rather small ones, but beautifully furnished, 

except the Library, which was very large and long, — white 

carved wood wails and ceiling and immense palms down the 

middle of the room, and a fine organ. I took in all the details 

I could but it is very hard to remember seeing so much. 

That same afternoon we came on to London. Frank had 

written to Mr. Mactear and so after going to the Bank we 

found him here and he had arranged for us to go to Earl's 

Court to see the exhibition and dine with them at the Welcome 

Club. The Gardens were illuminated and it was a beautiful 

sight. Mrs. Mactear was very cordial and we had another 

guest, Princess de Lusignan, an elderly stout woman, but who 

283 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

was very polite and an interesting talker. Mr. M. in the mean- 
time had arranged for a day on the River, the next day being 
the greatest Sunday on the River. 

They arranged with us to meet them at Paddington at 
10 a. m. Imagine my surprise on arriving there to find that 




"THAMES DAY" IN THE LOCK" 



the whole world was intent on the same thing. Shoals of 

gaily-dressed women arrived in hansoms and private carriages 

and hampers of all sizes and descriptions. The men in striped 

flannels and women almost universally dressed in white pique 

skirts and chiffon blouses, any color from lemon to black. 

I have never seen such a display of color. 

There we met the Bisphams and David put his arm around 

me and seemed perfectly delighted to see us. We got into the 

train and went as far as Taplow where we drove to the river 

and went into the grounds of a delightful small Hotel called 

Skindles. Mrs. M. tells me this garden has figured in many 

plays. Launches and boats were fastened to the bank and the 

river was alive. 

284 



ENGLAND 

Mr. M. got a lovely Electric Launch and we sat up in 
delightful wicker arm chairs and pretty soon got to a lock. 
You know the river is only as wide as a canal and every little 
distance the boats have to go through locks and the scene is 
indescribable. The boats of all sizes blocked close together 
and all alive with people, great silk cushions in the most brilliant 




'SURLEY HALL" 



colors and added to the gay costumes of the women they made a 
most beautiful sight. We passed Mr. W. Waldorf Astor's place, 
Cliveden, going up, and stopped at Cookham for lunch. 

The day was the most perfect you can imagine and neither 
hot nor cold. We had lunch in a crowded room and gaily 
decked in flowers, as flowers are everywhere in masses, on the 
boats and in the gardens along shore. It was too beautiful 
for words. Leaving Cookham at once we went further up 
and then turned down the river and at about 6 o'clock stopped 
at another exquisite place called Surley Hall for 5 o'clock Tea. 
Here we had tea and cake and sandwiches with more crowds 
and then down to Windsor where we left the launch, not being 
in the least fatigued, and took the train to Richmond. 

There we got into a carriage after looking at the Star and 

285 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Garter, which is no longer swell, and drove through Richmond 
Park to Sheen House, the former residence of the Count of 
Paris and now turned into a private Club. 

It was elegant to a degree, beautiful grounds and flowers, 
liveried servants and beautiful tables. Here we had a fine 
dinner with champagne. All the tables were filled with elegant 
people and beautiful with flowers. After dinner we adjourned 
into a large room, sort of gallery, where a band was playing 
and people were having cofTee and smoking. At about ten 
we took another carriage and drove to town. There was not 
much Sunday about this you can imagine, but as I had heard 
and read so much about such experiences I felt that we must 
not miss it. AfT. M. D. R. 

Dear Laura, J u1 ^ I2 ' i8 97> London > 8 -30 P. M. 

Many thanks for your letters which reached us. Here we 
find the weather very cool and wear quite warm clothing. 
Mary works like a beaver. The Mactears have been lavishly 
hospitable to us, so much so I am scared to know how to re- 
venge myself for their courtesy. I am being outfitted and as 
soon as my clothes are ready we will leave for the Continent. 
With best love, Any, Frank 

The Hotel Metropole, London, 

-i-N . -p July 16th, 1897. 

Dear Boys,- j j ' y/ 

Here we are yet, much to my chagrin, waiting for my 
clothes. We hope to get off Monday for the Continent, altho 
undecided to what point we shall go. To-day I am going 
with Mactear and Peggy to Henley to see the rowing and to- 
morrow we take them to the Opera. What with shopping 
and sightseeing we have passed the time reasonably fast, but 
somehow I feel a nervous fatigue and will be glad to get to 
some quiet place. Last night Mr. Elias* called on us and we 
had a very enjoyable talk over old times. He is very little 
changed in appearance since 1876 and hoped we would come 
to Egypt. He spoke of you both most feelingly. 

*Mr. Elias was Egyptian Commissioner in 1876 at the Centennial Exposition. 

286 



ENGLAND 

Dr. Messel took me to his works and I was much impressed 
with the way he conducts them. 

The weather here is like May with us and the sun shines 
each day. We have had no rain and no fog and London is 
as clear as Philadelphia. 

Your Mother begins to feel just a little fatigued and I 
fancy finds me a rather dull comrade. 

What a great roaring bustling place London is! I always 
knew it was big but never realized before how immense it is! 

I suppose the hot weather at home has warned you to get 
in the shade at some cool resort and endeavor to keep cool 
and take the world easy. 

What our future journeys will be I don't know beyond a 
longer stay at Hombourg and a visit to Adelmann. While 
at Hombourg I hope to run over to Wiesbaden, to W r urzburg 
and Tubingen and possibly Munich to revisit my residences 
in 1867. I tried to get passage by the St. Paul in September, 
but all good places were taken and I shall have to look out 
later and take my chances. 

I appreciate now the difficulty of letter writing at this 
end, for it is hard to collect one's thoughts or write anything 
worth reading. With heaps of love to both of you, I am, 

Your affectionate, F. H. R. 

The Hotel Metropole, 
Dear Laura, London ' Saturda y> "7^, 1897. 

As I did not feel well enough to get up early and the shopr 
all close at noon, I concluded not to go out. We are going to 
the Opera to-night and will hear Eames in the "Nozze di 
Figaro." We take the Mactears with us and will have supper 
at the Savoy Restaurant afterwards. Frank went with Mr. 
M. and his daughter to Henley Regatta yesterday and got 
back at 11 P. M. I was alone and thought I would accomplish 
some shopping but I find I simply am not equal to it. 

There is such a horrid smell of pitch from the street pave- 
ments brought out by the hot sun and the stores so crowded 

287 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and hot that I forget what I came for and feel my head all 
queer. The hot and stuffy city is no place for me and we both 
feel anxious to get away, but cannot get off until Tuesday 
morning on account of Frank's clothing. 

The jewelry here is very attractive but I don't want to 
get much before looking in Paris. Lena and Betty are visit- 
ing Scotland near Aberdeen and are having a fine time. They 
will perhaps join us at Hombourg. We had the pleasure of one 
hour with Elias night before last. He had written to Ilfracombe 
to tell us he had delayed starting for Scotland asking for our 



v 




HENLEY REGATTA 



address and he only got it last night. Then he wrote again to 
the Banker saying he would leave Friday and could he see us 
and I sent a messenger boy at once. He looks the same as ever, 
perhaps a little older, and said it was the first time he had 
laughed since he came to London, and we all regretted this 
whole week we might have been going about together. 

I had begged Frank to see him when we first came, but he 
said Oh ! of course he was gone. I took a cab in the afternoon to 



ENGLAND 

return the Bisphams call, as it was their day at home, and 
found they had gone to the Regatta. I almost fainted with 
the heat and the sun in my eyes all the way. I saw plenty 
of fine carriages and a great show of color, but very few pretty 
women or toilets. I bought some beautiful photographs so 
I shall have an album of English Cathedrals and of the West 
Coast. After I got back I sat until 7.30 in the square hall 
watching the people arrive and go out for dinner. All the 
women in low necked dresses and entire arm exposed. An 
Indian Prince is in the hotel, is very tall with big beard and 
an immense turban with tails hanging down from it, long 
lanky legs with skin tight trousers of ordinary tan mixture 
and a coat of same with tight belt and funny pointed shoes. 

Then I saw another immense man in full uniform, some 
Oriental who was going out to dinner, but as he wore a black 
ulster all over him I couldn't see much. The swellest-looking 
man had one man and three ladies to dinner and all fine look- 
ing. There are more English here than Americans and some 
of the worst frights I have ever seen in my life. 

I saw the Parisian Diamond store where the things were 
perfectly beautiful, but almost as dear as the real. A hair 
ornament mounted on shell hair pin from 50 to 100 dollars, 
but the buckles were exquisite for #15 to #20 and a turtle of 
green stones and brilliants, 20 or 25 dollars. I thought best 
to see what the French prices were, as if I come back here I 
can get things then. I think I like the Liberty jewelry which 
is curious and real of its kind. 

I am disappointed at not being able to go about more and 
expect it will be the same in Paris. While I was on the west 
coast in the fresh bracing air I could do so much, and then the 
nights were quiet and restful, but here the bad air and noise 
affect my head and I just have to leave the shops after an hour 
or more. The thing we have enjoyed most was a ride on top 
of an omnibus which we took unexpectedly down the Strand, 
Chancery Lane, past Lincoln Inn and High Holborn with one 
block of old timbered houses, one of the last bits of old Lon- 
19 289 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

don, through Islington and the Angel Inn and the house where 
Sir Walter Raleigh lived, which was told us by the bus driver. 
The old furniture and silver almost drive me wild and to 
feel that I cannot get to them, ior everything is so scattered 
that you cannot get about unless you have weeks. I have 
about made up my mind that no one must expect anything of 
me, that I cannot travel and shop too, it is too much effort. I 



-r 










Sp ■ 










JK 


IEm 




V- 

"8 




■•Lj.-±\& 




ir '■ 



4 m& 



ykhitt*' 




ON THE OMNIBUS, LONDON 



can't seem to decide on things and my only way is to go to 
one place and let them furnish everything.. I worry and stew 
to try and get the right thing and it isn't worth while. 

We went to see Irving and Terry Wednesday night. Terry 
was sick but the woman who took her place was fine, and it 
didn't seem it could be better played. The play was fine but 
the audience was ugly and the house dark and gloomy, and 
you pay 3^2 dollars for what you pay i}4 or 2 at home. No 
wonder for the theatres are so small. I must stop, it is going 
to rain and I hear that the weather will change and only hope 
for decent weather to cross the channel. Love to all, 

Any, M. D. R. 

290 



ENGLAND 

The Hotel Metropole, 

, , ^ -r, London, Sunday, July 18, 1897. 

My Dear Boys, ' J J J 

Here we are still and with little hope of getting away be- 
fore Tuesday and then only if your Mother gets over one of 
her headaches. She wants to go on, is thoroughly sated with 
London and its extravagant prices. The weather is lovely. 
The present intention is to go to Ostend, Bruges, Liege, Brus- 
sels, Cologne and on to Hombourg, where we hope to be about 




HENLEY REGATTA 

the 25th or 27th of July and stay a couple of weeks. We thus 
avoid Paris and will have to let our mail be sent after us. 

I can only pray that all goes well with you at home. We 
read of the hot wave and wondered what you did to keep 
comfortable. 

I wrote you of my invitation to Henley. Mactear and 

Daughter took me, but your Mother had a lonely day at the 

hotel. At Henley we were entertained by a Mr. Jamison, 

who had rented a house for the week and knew everything of 

interest and piloted us about. The day was warm for here 

but this did not prevent myriads of well-dressed people being 

there in boats of every description. We were in a punt, a sort of 

291 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

flat-bottomed scow, with comfortable seats on the bottom and 
quantities of cushions and propelled either by paddles or a pole. 

The river was fairly jammed full of boats, in fact one could 
step from boat to boat for a mile. The boats kept jamming 
each other, but everybody was most good natured and little 
interest taken in the racing. When a race was on the police 
boats warned people to get out of the track and every one did 
so with avidity. It was a marvelous kaleidoscopic picture 
of bright colors with beautiful faces and handsome men in 
boating clothes. At night there was an illumination and fire- 
works but I did not stay, not wishing to leave your Mother 
alone. I took a lot of Photos and hope to be able to show you 
the nature of the event. 

Yesterday was a sort of "dies non." Banker, Tailor and 
Hotel and trying to make up our minds for the journey to the 
continent. At night we took the Mactears to the Opera, a 
rather formidable undertaking here, and then to late supper 
at the Savoy. 

One-third of our time is up and I have as yet not been able 
to get my return passage by the American Line. I think it 
very possible we may come back via Havre, either by a North 
German or French Liner. With love from both of us, 

Any., F. H. R. 

Hotel Metropole, 
London, July 20th, 1897. 
Dear Boys, Tuesday. 

Here we are starting for Paris. Your Mother gave up 
going to Belgium, so we hope to get away this morning to 
France. I am not a bit sorry to get out of London, it is such 
a big noisy, busy place, and one feels lost. The weather is 
cool compared to Philadelphia and to-day is overcast and no 
wind, so I hope we shall have a nice run over the Channel 
and on to Paris. I will cable you from Paris, probably. So 
with best love and wishes to you, 

As ever Your Affectionate, F. H. R. 







FRANCE 

Paris, July 21st, 1897. 
Dear Boys, 

Here we are at last, glad to be out of England and delighted 

with our first impressions of Paris and I have just received 




CROSSING FROM FOLKESTONE TO BOULOGNE 

your batch of letters sent to Paris. Of course we are greatly 
satisfied to know of your welfare and contentment. 

We crossed yesterday from Folkestone to Boulogne and the 
Channel was as smooth as glass and the weather charming. 

293 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We found good rooms at the Hotel Normandie and splendid 
food. You can imagine your Mother's delight at finding Mrs. 
W. at the Hotel Jardin, opposite the Gardens of the Louvre. 
We sat out on the balcony of the top story there with the 
beautiful vista in front and it was simply delicious after the 
noise of London. 

We have met quite a number of acquaintances already 
and shall be contented here for the week we remain. Next 
week we go on to Hombourg and remain there for two or three 
weeks and hope to get a visit to Count Adelmann. 

Paris is simply delicious after the existence in England, 
there the food was tedious and expensive and people stiffer 
than ramrods, but it was interesting. Here everyone seems 
good natured and the streets and buildings are an unending 
pleasure. 

Affectionately, F. H. R. 

The Normandy Hotel, 
Paris, 25 de Juillet, 1897. 
My Dear Boys, 

Here we are in Paris still but are going to-day to Brussels 
en route to Hombourg. It is pretty hot to-day but not un- 
bearable, and I fear we shall hardly find ourselves as comfort- 
able elsewhere. This Hotel is .very quiet but well kept with 
good attendance and dainty food. We got here Tuesday, 
dined and strolled out to the Jardin des Tuilleries. Your 
Mother thought of Mrs. W., inquired at her Hotel and found 
to her delight she was not only in Paris but in her apartment, 
so up we went to the top of one of those big houses facing the 
Tuilleries gardens, to find a warm reception and such, a beau- 
tiful view. 

Your Mother has therefore been very happy with Mrs. W., 
and I have wandered around pretty much alone. Thursday 
I went out to Versailles and found old Mr. Mourge (90 years 
oldO^and Mr. Alfred Durand, and they gave me a warm 
reception, Mourge kissing me on both cheeks. It was a 

294 . 



FRANCE 

most delightful glimpse of real French existence, a droll sort of 
house with beautiful garden filled with blooming flowers. Old 
Mourge was deaf as a post so to amuse me he got a whistle 
and some bread crumbs and when he blew his whistle myriads 
of sparrows came and crowded around him. It was a picture 
indeed. I fired off a plate at him but don't know if I will get 
anything. 

Yesterday your Mother and I had our star excursion to 
Fontainebleau and Barbizon, and while the weather was hot 



m 




FONTAINEBLEAU: THE CHATEAU, THE TOWN AND THE FOREST 

we enjoyed the trip greatly. The Palace is marvelously pre- 
served. The park covers 35,000 acres, and as well kept as a 
garden. Barbizon is where quantities of painters have their 
places and make sketches. 

We drove for hours through the forest and saw the trees 
by all lights and now shall have a more tender appreciation 
of the pictures of the Barbizon school. 

To-day we are off to Brussels, finding the journey to Frank- 
fort and Hombourg no longer than by Strasbourg and giving 
us a chance to see Belgium, Cologne and the Rhine. We will 

295 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

arrive in Hombourg on Wednesday and remain there, your 
Mother thinks, two or three weeks. I have written Count 
Adelmann but thus far have no response, if I don't hear soon 
I will write to him again for I know he wants us to visit him. 

We expect to meet all our folks later on in Hombourg and 
hope to hear they are having an enjoyable time. 

Now to the most important thing. We took passage yes- 
terday on the "Touraine," the finest of the French Line, for 
September 25th for New York, so you will not see us before 
the first of October. Your Mother did not want to travel 
back to London and Southampton and so I had to give up 
my hope of going home on the St. Paul, as we had come. 

Your Mother unloads trunks and then has to spend hours 
packing them again. 

As ever yr. aifectionate, F. H. R. 




GERMANY 

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg, 

Wednesday, July 28th, 1897. 
My Dear Boys, 

Here we are at last, just this moment arrived and sorry 
not to have anv mail. We left Paris on Sunday and stayed 




HOTEL VICTORIA, HOMBOURG (ON THE LEFT) 

in Brussels until yesterday morning and then came on to 
Cologne and spent last night there, meeting young Charles 
Harrison. This morning it rained hard while we were in the 
train coming up the Rhine to Frankfort and here. 

We had a scare at Frankfort. Our luggage was checked 

297 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

to Nuremberg by mistake and somebody else's checked for 
Frankfort instead of ours. By the best of luck the porter we 
took tracked ours up and by dint of hard running I succeeded 
in inducing the baggage man on the train to Nuremberg to 
let me haul ours out just as the train was leaving Frankfort. 
You can imagine your mother's discomfort for the time, and 
what she would have thought had it gone on. 

My impressions of Germany have vanished in the immense 
changes everywhere apparent. I hope I shall like Hombourg. 

Your Mother seems bent on remaining here two or three 
weeks and we hope soon to have the other members of the 
family with us. Your Mother, no doubt, will write you par- 
ticulars of our doings and I shall write too, as soon as I am 
settled and cleaned up. So with best love and best wishes 
from both of us, 

Believe me your affectionate, F. H. R. 

Royal Victoria Hotel, 
Hombourg, July 30th, 1897. 
Dear Laura, 

We have just come back from our first morning walk and 
drink at the Springs, have had our breakfast and I have time 
to write before my bath. It was lovely at the Springs, sweet 
with new mown hay and flowers and gay music, but it lacks 
the festive appearance it had before when the Prince of Wales 
was here. I believe I have not written you since the first 
night in Paris. I went to Paquin and Doucet. Of course the 
new models were not in. We drove in the Champs Elysees 
and Bois, then F. and I went to the Maringny and saw a 
beautiful ballet. The whole Chinese legation was there. 

Then we spent a day at Fontainebleau, first the Chateau, 
which is perfectly beautiful, and in Marie Antoinette's finest 
room I found my parlor side gas fixtures, much to my delight. 
Then we drove through the Forest, saw the Gorge Franchard 
which is really remarkable, and the great trees Jupiter and 

Pharamond, then to the Gorge Apremont, caused by some 

298 



GERMANY 

terrible cataclysm thousands of years ago, and dined at Bar- 
bizon, identified as the origin of the Barbizon school of paint- 
ing, an ideal spot on the edge of the Forest, then we drove 
back in the twilight and took train to town and rode back on 
top of an omnibus in Paris down the Rue Rivoli and a man 
who said he was a cook explained everything we passed, 
through the very heart of old Paris. 

We left in the afternoon of the next day for Brussels 
Hotel Bellevue, superb, and found Bellamy Storer had left 



THEATRE MARIGNY, AVENUE BOIS DE BOULOGNE, PARIS 

that very morning for Spa. ; we were so sorry to miss him. That 
evening we went out through a beautiful park back of the 
Hotel to the Ministry of Finance, &c, a palace all illuminated 
and the whole city was illuminated, and took a trolley out 
to the Exposition, which entered the grounds and made a 
circuit showing everything. The next day we spent the morn- 
ing in a carriage seeing the town. The old part is so interesting 
and the new part most impressive — it is certainly a beautiful 
place and puts our towns to shame. In the afternoon we went 
out to the Fair, but were not impressed as after Chicago such 

a thing seems tame. 

299 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 




FONTAINEBLEAU 




DOOR AT FONTAINEBLEAU 



300 



GERMANY 

We left the next morning for Cologne. Met delightful 
English women on the train who raved over David Bispham 
and Emma Eames, but we didn't find out their names. 

We spent the late afternoon looking at the Cathedral. 
They have had the good sense to preserve the old Roman re- 
mains and the city gates with their beautiful pointed towers 
though they have torn down many of the old streets. After 
dinner we went in a boat on the river to a beer garden, 
where there was music and from the river the Cathedral is 




BARBIZON 



overwhelming, it seems suspended in the air. It is the most 

graceful thing in the world. Its wonderful size cannot be 

appreciated any more than Niagara. 

From Cologne, where it rained hard in the night, we came 

on to Frankfort, following the Rhine closely, and it seemed 

more beautiful than ever. If I live and can ride I want to 

bring my wheel over here and ride on that perfect and level 

road along the Rhine from Coblentz to Rudesheim; perfectly 

level with those enchanting hills and castles and ruins always 

in view and fascinating and quaint old towns whenever you 

want to stop. 

301 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We arrived here at 3.30 and found a lovely room with bal- 
cony on the Garden. The Hotel has changed hands and they 
have enclosed part of the garden into an eating place, so you 
can no longer eat in the garden and it is not half as gay. Mrs. 
Learning danced a great deal. She is just my age and looked 
so young and slender and perfectly beautiful. There wasn't 
any one to compare with her. 

We shall go from here to Sigmaringen to see the Adelmanns. 

With love to all and hoping to hear from you soon, as we 
have had nothing for a week, Aff'ly, M. D. R. 

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg, 

Monday, Aug. 2nd, 1897. 
Dear Cliff, 

Your welcome letter of the 20th ult. from Biddeford Pool 
came and gave us much pleasure. We are glad you have left 




FRESENIUS LABORATORY, WIESBADEN 

hot Philadelphia for the cool breezes of New England. I am 

glad to know you have attended carefully to my business 

matters and paid the servants. 

302 



GERMANY 

We are now in our 6th day here and must remain eight 
days longer if your Mother persists in taking the baths, etc. 
This Hotel is crowded with English people, few Americans. 

Saturday I took a run to Wiesbaden and had a hearty 
reception from the sons of Prof. Fresenius, drove all over the 
town and enjoyed it all, but it is immensely changed since 
my time there in 1867. 

Yesterday we had a quiet day of it and this morning as 
usual went bright and early to drink the waters and at 11 
both of us took the baths. 

We have had two pressing letters from the Adelmanns ask- 
ing us to come there and I am impatient to get there. Your 
Mother paid another visit to the Doctor and now he orders 
her to take the water in her bed instead of the pleasant walk 
to the Springs. My idea is she would be much better off to 
let the water alone but she cannot be convinced of that. 




01 



IMfa font 




CURIOUS MOTTO IN FRESENIUS HOME 



I fancy Hombourg is a good deal as you remember it and 
the weather is charmingly clear and cool. We have just come 
back from the drive to the Tannen Baume, where your Mother 

303 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

says you once drove with her. It certainly is a drive typically 
German in character. 

On the 4th of September the Emperor is to have a great 
review of 40,000 soldiers here, so the authorities are cleaning 
up the roads and woods and with the splendid crops now being 
gathered the country is most interesting. Your Mother is 
always planning and attempting but her strength soon gives 
out and she easily becomes fatigued. 

We expect now to come home on the French Steamer 
Touraine from Havre, sailing on the 25th of September, and 
with good luck should reach New York about the 2nd or 
3rd of October. Your Mother joins me in best love to you both. 

Affectionately, F. H. R. 

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg, 

Monday, August 2nd, 1897. 
Dear Sam, 

Thanks for your letter of the 18th of July telling us of the 
delightful weather in Jamestown. 

We have been here in Hombourg since last Wednesday 
afternoon and your Mother is drinking the waters and taking 
the baths. She seems to enjoy it all very much and I hope 
will be greatly benefited. I ran off last Saturday for a visit 
to Wiesbaden, my old stamping ground, and had an enjoyable 
time there, though I was quite alone and no one to talk to. 

To-day we took a beautiful drive through the forest and 
enjoyed it greatly. We usually take breakfast and lunch at 
the Hotel and wander for dinner. Last Friday we dined at 
the Kursaal and saw beautiful fireworks and illuminations. 
You would be interested to see the life here, lots of tennis, 
golf, etc., but few young folks, mostly dried up English tabbies 
who come for the waters. 

We have had two letters from the Adelmanns who are an- 
ticipating our visit, but your Mother insists on remaining 
here until her 24 days are up and I must abide by it, though 
I would greatly prefer to go on. We shall probably be in 

304 



GERMANY 

Paris by the 5th of September and remain there until the 23 rd 
and then go on to Havre for a day or two to see the Thackaras, 
and sail on the 25th of September. 

Affectionately, F. H. R. 

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg, 

Friday, Aug. 6th, 1897. 
Dear Sam, 

Here we are still, your mother insisting on taking the baths 
and drinking the water and enjoying glimpses of the fine folks 
who crowd the Hotels and Casino. We have quite a Phila- 
delphia colony and last night ten of us dined together at the 
Kursaal. After the dinner all hands went to the dance in the 
Ball room, even your Mother taking a dance. Your Mother 
took a walk this morning with Mrs. Geo. W. Childs, and they 
are becoming quite chummy. 

I fancy you would hardly enjoy the place, although the 
gardens and park are beautiful and the surrounding moun- 
tains most romantic. We drove the other day to the Roman 
Camp on top of one of the mountains, the Saalburg, where the 
Romans camped for 200 years, and I got a fragment of a vase 
that a man dug up in our presence. The Camp has been 
studied and partly restored and the statues and bronzes that 
were excavated are in a museum here. The weather is too 
warm to take much exercise by day time but the nights are 
very pleasant and we sit out till late and sleep like tops. 

Your Mother became so weary by early rising and the 
walk to the Springs that the Doctor told her to take the waters 
in bed, which suits her much better. We hope to get off next 
week, at least I do, to visit the Adelmanns and I look to that 
visit as the most enjoyable of our experiences. 

Your letters give us much pleasure. 

I hope to hear you joined the Yacht Club cruise either at 
New Haven or New London and sailed with them to New- 
port. However, you no doubt consulted your own comfort 

in the matter. Affectionately, F. H. R. 

20 305 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Hombourg, Hotel Victoria, 

Aug. 6th, 1897. 
Dear Laura and Sam, 

I don't seem to be able to write more than once a week, 
what with drinking the waters and taking baths and eating 
and resting. The first few days I went to the Springs and took 
the water before breakfast, being away an hour, and I felt 
so exhausted that I went to the Doctor and he said it would 





THE SCHLOSS," HOMBOURG 



never do, that my pulse was very feeble and to have the water 

sent up and take the 3 glasses before getting up. So now I 

feel better and spend the rest of the morning until I go to my 

bath, walking about. 

Frank went to Wiesbaden Saturday to see the Fresenius' 

and didn't get back until bedtime. I saw him speak to some 

familiar-rlooking people and it was Cynthia Yeatman and 

her aunt. She had lots to tell about Hugh Campbell and 

it seems Mrs. Mackay was at the same Hotel, but left sud- 

306 



GERMANY 

denly, as my Doctor Noeber found she had something which 
required operating. 

Sunday we attended church service in the old Schloss 
(where the Empress Frederick used to live) and now is being 
renovated for the Emperor. We were about the last people 
admitted to the State Rooms. 

There is to be a great review here in September. Miss 
Yeatman is coming back for it, but Frank doesn't seem to 
care about it. We dined on the Kurhaus Terrace last night 
and went into the Hop and I danced. There was a private 
ball upstairs Tuesday. People arriving every day and the 
place is full. I love the old town, care nothing for the fashion- 
able side of it. 

The castle garden is beautiful and I have been there every 
morning. We dined here last evening as it poured rain until 
late and then went up to the Kurhaus and sat on the Terrace. 
On Friday nights there are two bands, one military at one 
side and the regular orchestra at the other, and the fountain 
illuminated. It is now crowded here and I don't know what 
it will be when the Prince of Wales comes. 

We are thinking of going, after we leave the Adelmanns, 
into France instead of Switzerland, into the Vosges Mts. It 
seems more sensible instead of going so far away as Munich 
and Innsbruck to keep in the direction of Paris — besides 
going to new scenes where the whole world doesn't go. They say 
Switzerland is just filled with Americans and as I have been 
there so many times it would be nice to see something new. 

We shall probably be in Paris from Sept. 5th to 23 rd and 
go on to Havre stopping at Rouen for a day. We left our 
trunks at the Normandy so as to go back there and it was the 
easiest way to manage. It is such a relief not to have to go 
to London and then to Southampton or Liverpool. Then we 
shall be in New York the next Saturday morning and perhaps 
Friday night, according to the weather. 

Love to all. 

Affectionately, M. D. R. 

307 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg, 

August 7th, 1897. 
Dear Cliff, 

Doubtless you are still at North East Harbor enjoying 
the fresh sea breezes and having a good time. Here we have 
quite a colony of Philadelphians. 

Your Mother seems perfectly contented here. 

Owing to the scare here over the miseries of the new Tariff 
law I shall make few or no purchases on this side and prefer 
to give you something when I get back to suit you. 

We hope to get off to the Adelmanns at the end of next 
week, although your Mother is quite desirous to remain here. 
I cannot stand this kind of a loafing existence, especially as I 
must always be within hailing distance of your Mother. 

We both keep wonderfully well, go to bed early and get 
up late and cannot eat the greasy food here, so I fancy this 
may account for our good condition. 

We are always thinking of you and Sam and hoping you 
are enjoying good health, good company, and having lots 
of fun before starting in on serious work at the law. With 
our best love and my tender expression of regard, 

Affy., F. H. R. 

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg, 

Tuesday, Aug. 9th, 1897. 
Dear Clifford and Sam, 

Your Mother keeps well and just as contented as ever 
with this place. We have had a couple of days of rainy weather 
and the hours seemed like days to me. 

Last night Uncle Joe and Aunt Fanny arrived from Ham- 
burg, so we now have quite a colony. Lina and Betty are at 
Riechelmann's, Uncle Joe at Ritter's Hotel and we are here, 
so I fancy we will berunningaftereach other pretty constantly. 
Our plans are, as far as we are able to make plans, to go 
to Adelmann the end of this week via the Black Forest, partly 

by train and partly by Coach, the young Count to meet us 

308 



GERMANY 

part way and act as guide. How long we remain in Sigmarin- 
gen I don't know, but I do hope four or five days, and thence 
either to Switzerland and eventually to the Vosges Moun- 
tains in Eastern France and gradually back to Paris where 
we are to be about the 5th of September at the Hotel 
Normandy. 

I fancy by the time this reaches Philadelphia you will 
have returned from North East Harbor after an enjoyable 
stop there. If the weather is very hot in town you would do 
well to take a room at Devon Inn or some surburban place 
where you would have nice company and plenty of golf. This 
would make time pass agreeably to you. 

Sam didn't go to meet the Corinthian Yacht Club and gave 
as a reason the prevalence of a heavy Nor'easter! I do 
hope the cruise was a success, for all hands had taken so much 
trouble to make it a success. 

Your Mother sends, with me, love and tender remem- 
brances and wishes for your happiness 

As ever, affectionately, F. H. R. 

Hombourg, Aug. nth, 1897. 
Dear Clifford, 

Just five years ago (1892) since we were here together, 
and every day I think how much more you would have en- 
joyed it this time. We dine very often at the Kurhaus and at 
present it is crowded there every night. Yesterday afternoon 
Lina and Betty, Fanny and Evelyn Howell and her two uncles 
started on bicycles for the Tannenwald. Your Uncle Joe, 
Aunt Fanny, your Father and myself in a carriage. We went 
ahead and stopped at the first turn and then drove back to 
find them. The two uncles had turned back in despair as their 
bicycles were too low for them, little Fanny went all the way 
back and changed hers. Evelyn Howell came to grief with 
her dress, which had white silk ruffles inside and she tore 
them out and left them along the road. Betty and Fanny got 
lost and went to the little Tannenwald. After we had been 

309 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

there more than half an hour Lina and Evelyn arrived blow- 
ing and puffing, and a quarter of an hour later Betty and 
Fanny. We had more fun than enough. 

When we got to the Yagd house the gardens were full 
of people taking coffee. The others came straight home down 
hill. Betty and Fanny collided and fell in a gutter, but. 
otherwise unhurt. Then we drove through the Pines and 
made a circle and came back in a different way, a beautiful 
drive. I was dying to go on a wheel, but they are heavy and 
it was up hill, and the water is playing havoc with me so I 
thought it best not to go. 

We are now corresponding vigorously with the Adelmanns 
and have about decided to leave here Saturday, 14th, and 
arrive at Triberg that night, leave there the next afternoon 
and arrive that eve at Sigmaringen. We expect to drive 
from Hausach to Triberg. From Sigmaringen we have no plans. 
But your Father says he wants to go to Munich, so if we go 
there I think we will probably go on to Innsbruck and drive 
to Cortina and some of the places near by. 

I suppose you know we have taken staterooms on the 
Touraine 25th of Sept., and will sail from Havre, stopping at 
Rouen over one night. We expect to be in Paris the 4th of 
Sept., so we will have almost 3 weeks in Paris. I bought heavy 
silk stockings for you and Sam in London and paid over $2 
a pair for them, so you see they were not cheap. I shall bring 
you both a toilet set of ebony with silver initials and I am 
afraid that must be all. 

Of course as I am here, on this side of the water, I would 
rather stay, but your Father is crazy to get home. I am too 
tired to write much while travelling and this climate when 
you take the water makes you feel good for nothing. No 
doubt a change will be better. I am takingthecure religiously. 
I must stop to go out with Aunt Fanny, so good-bye. 
With much love, 

Your aff., M. D. R. 



310 



GERMANY 

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg, 

Friday, Aug. 13th, 1897. 
Dear Sam, 

To-day I got the Ledger with the account of the Corin- 
thian Cruise. What a rough time they did have! I am glad 
now you had the good sense to stay away. Your Mother has 
at last agreed to quit Hombourg, so to-morrow we start at 
9 a. m. for Frankfurt, Heidelberg and the Black Forest, and 
arrive on Sunday evening at Sigmaringen for a stay of several 
days with Count Adelmann. She is sorry to leave here now 
Uncle Joe and Aunt Fanny and Lina and Betty are here. I 
am perfectly satisfied to go. 

To-night we are to dine at the Kursaal where there will 
be splendid fireworks and a dance and another dance at our 
Hotel under the patronage of the Duke of Cambridge. Your 
Mother seems perfectly contented here and enjoys the flutter 
of fine folks that crowd the place. I wander around when 
not doing errands for her, sit at the Tennis Courts or make 
excursions into the Taunus Mountains. 

Beau Thomson left this morning for Bremen and will be 
very much missed here. He has been most attentive to all 
of us and we enjoyed seeing him play Tennis. 

We have had cloudy weather for a few days but to-day 
is like a typical May day with us and most enjoyable. I only 
hope we shall have as good weather for our Black Forest trip. 

Write me what your plans are about getting the Acme 
back to Philadelphia and if you contemplate entering the 
Law School this Autumn. 

So good-bye and with our united love 

Youraff, F. H. R. 

Sigmaringen, Thurs. Aug. 19th 1897. 

Dear Cliff and Sam: 

Here we are quartered in Graf Adelmann's house and have 
been since last Sunday night, but on the run every minute 
with some delightful occupation or engagement and only 

3" 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

have had this chance to write as it is pouring rain. Your letter 
of the 30th July from North East Harbor found us here, and 
Sam's of 1st and 3rd of August. We were delighted to know 
you were both well and happy and only regret you are not 
here to enjoy with us the delights of this historical region. 




ON THE DANUBE AT SIGMARINGEN 

We are on the Danube in a country dotted everywhere with 
castles and we have been entertained in several and this even- 
ing we are formally invited to tea with the Furst (Prince).* 
You can imagine our perturbation at such an undertaking. 

*Prince Leopold, Sigmaringen, about whose nomination for King of Spain, in 1870, 
the Franco-Prussian War was forced. Count Adelmann is his Hof Kammer President and 
hence the invitation to dinner. The Prince died in Berlin later while attending the wed- 
ding of the Crown Prince of Germany. His brother was King of Rou mania, and his son 
is now King of that country (1916), the former king having no heir. 



312 



GERMANY 

Friday, Aug. 20th. 
As expected at 6 last evening two carriages came from the 
Summer Palace for us. Your Mother, Countess Adelmann 
and Graf Raban went in one and Graf and I in the other. It 




rained pitchforks, so we snuggled in to keep dry, for a drive 
of about 5 miles. We drove up to the palace and found the 
Hof (court) Marshal waiting for us and about a dozen lackeys. 
Our wraps were soon off and we went through a series of rooms 

313 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

to a large reception room, where I was introduced to one or 
two gentlemen and the Priest when a gentleman greeted me 
in a most friendly manner and I talked some minutes with him 
before I knew I was talking to the Prince of Hohenzollern 
Sigmaringen, Cousin of the Emperor William and probably 
the wealthiest prince in Europe! a most amiable, intelligent, 
and unpretending man, a good edition in appearance and size 
of Sterling, with the same nervous energy; afterward the 
three ladies of the Court came in and I was introduced. 
When your Mother and Countess Adelmann came in all 
the men were presented and the Hof Marshal quietly told 
each one where to sit at the dinner table. To my sur- 
prise your Mother was taken to table by and sat on the 
right of the Prince, Grafin Adelmann on his left and I to 
her left, etc., your Mother being the guest of honor. Well 
you can imagine her sensations, first an all-gone feeling and 
then the pride of the Richardsons and at last a feeling of 
confidence and she kept the Prince and table in good spirits. 

The table fixins she will no doubt describe, altho they were 
not half as showy as your Mother's, yet nice. There were 
lots of servants and two or three sorts of wine. The Prince 
drank to my health and then the Hof Marshal and by the 
time the meal was over we felt as if we could eat with anybody, 
however grand. 

After dinner we went to a tenpin alley, the ladies going 
in an antique Sedan Chair and the men skipping between the 
rain drops. Once inside the Bowling place cigars were lighted 
by the men and cigarettes by the ladies. I had several long 
talks with the Prince and your Mother sat with him the whole 
evening, the centre of all observers. He thanked us for coming 
and said he was delighted to have met us. 

About 10.30 we started for town through the rain and after 
a cup of tea at Adelmann's we went to bed at midnight. Your 
Mother to dream of Princes and palaces, etc. The Adelmanns 
have been simply unending in their kindness to us. Graf 
Raban is a lovely fellow, studying law, has been in Leipsic 



GERMANY 

but goes to Berlin this winter. His elder brother is in Mar- 
gate, has throat trouble. The daughter Mechtilde is a sweet 
blonde girl, charming and chubby and the Countess is fine 
looking and a splendid hostess. 






f tu. 







Adelmann is full of fun altho he is a very busy man, having 
charge of all of the Estates of the Furst, here, in Holland, 
Pomerania, Austria and other places. We are to be here 



315 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

till Tuesday when we take Raban with us to Munich and 
Augsburg and thence to Adelmann's own Castle Hohenstadt 
for two days and then we will work our way to Paris, to be 
there about the 5th of Sept. It would take many pages to 
give you a faint idea of all we have seen and done here, the 
castles we have visited, the people we have met and of the 
beautiful things we have seen. 

Adelmann* is related to the very highest nobility around 
and is welcomed everywhere and entertains a great deal. He 
showed us his book in which all visitors sign their names and 
among them were many royal persons. The sun is shining 
again and I have warm clothing on but I feel cold. 

Well I must close now, hoping to have letters from you 
to-day. With love to both of you, 

AfTy., F. H. R. 

Sigmaringen, August 20, 1897. 
Dear Laura, 

How can I ever begin, there is so much to tell! We left 
Frankfurt last Saturday morning and came down through 
Heidelberg to Hausach in the Black Forest, where young 
Adelmann met us and we drove by carriage to Triberg, a most 
beautiful place, and spent the night there. We found Dr. and 
Mrs. Wm. White and young Harrison, and Dr. Stengel there 
bicycling through that part of the country and old Mrs. Geo. 
W. Biddle at the Hotel. 

The next morning Raban and I went shopping and found 
peasant bonnets and some little dolls, as we waited for the 
hotel omnibus to come along, and then who should appear 
but Graf Adelmann. He came all the way from Sigmaringen 
to meet us; it took us all the rest of the day till 5 o'clock to get 
to Sigmaringen, as it is a roundabout way. 

*Graf Adelmann was a "Corps Brother" of mine in 1869-1870 at Tubingen Univer- 
sity, at the time the present King of Wurtemberg was a member. Our friendship there 
was renewed in 1893 when Adelmann came to the United States as a judge at the Chicago 
Exposition and visited us in Philadelphia and Jamestown. His letters "62 Days Among 
the Yankees " went to 14 editions. 

316 



GERMANY 

The Countess met us at the station and we had afterward 
a most delicious dinner with a souffle au chocolat for dessert. 
This is their town house and is a fine big house with beautiful 
garden opening into the gardens of the town house of the 
Prince of Hohenzollern, cousin of the Kaiser, and is beauti- 
fully furnished like a museum. My bed room has an entire 
set of old Empire furniture, perfect sofa, bed, wardrobe, and 
the reception room is all old Louis XV and beautiful portraits 
everywhere, coats of arms, &c, which it will take me weeks 
to tell you about. 




BICYCLE PARTY AT TRIBERG 



The first morning we had flannel cakes, better than any 
we ever have — yesterday green corn out of their garden. 
They also have electric light everywhere and a nice bathroom. 
They are certainly the most hospitable people I ever met and 
devote themselves to our pleasure. The first day, Monday, 
we went to the Museum in the Royal Chateau and in the after- 
noon drove to the Royal country house, through the park of 
pine trees, filled with deer, exquisite flower gardens and arbors 
and the house very low and old fashioned. The Prince and 
wife were at Scheveningen in Holland but were to return next 
day. She was an Infanta of Portugal and an invalid at present. 

317 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Little did I think I would be the guest of honor at a Royal 
residence and taken in to supper on the arm of the Prince, 
as I was last night, but of that later. Tuesday morning we 
went through the Schloss, their ancient residence perched 
high on great rocks hanging over the Danube, and in the after- 
noon we went to see a monastery at Beuron, through magnifi- 
cent rock scenery along the Danube. This monastery is the 
headquarters of the Benedictines in Germany and we got there 




ARMOR IN VAULT AT SCHLOSS SIGMARINGEN 
A collection of arms, etc., from earliest ages to the present time 

in time for a service in honor of some Fest, and heard the old 
Gregorian church music, one of the few places where it is 
possible to hear it. Then we called on Pater Nicolas, who is 
a Count something, and one of the big men. He was sent to 
the Rhine to entertain the Kaiser at one of their monasteries. 
He took us to walk up a mountain, where we could see a beau- 
tiful old castle, where lived relatives of the family, but we 
couldn't walk as far as it was so warm in the sun. It seems 
they saw us coming in the castle and were disappointed when 

we turned back. 

318 



GERMANY 

I met a count and countess there who spoke 

English perfectly, and there came back with us a widow, 
Baroness of Hornstein (whose castle we saw on top of a rock 
on the way from Triberg), with her two children. She is a 
relative and stayed here over night, to go with us on Wednes- 
day to Grueningen to visit another Hornstein in an old castle 
built on Roman foundations. 

So Wednesday three Adelmanns, three Hornsteins, two 




COUNT SALIS, "PATER NICOLAS," HEAD OF THE MONASTERY 
BENEDICTINE ORDER AT BEURON 

von Gallens and ourselves, went by train to Riedlingen and 
drove to the village of Grueningen, which belongs to the castle 
where the Hornsteins live and the castle church is also the 
parish church. The castle was wonderful with secret stair- 
cases and windows of old stained glass, coats of arms every- 
where, armor and guns, rifles, spears and lances, in short the 
whole thing looking like the Cluny Museum. 

The Count does the most wonderful illuminating and 
showed us the family book, containing the family history and 
names of all people who visit them, with colored coats of arms. 

319 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Here again I was the guest of honor and seated at the tea 
table in a mediaeval room at the right hand of the host. Then 
we saw beautiful portraits and embroideries in use 400 years, 




HALL, SCHLOSS HORNSTEIN, GRUENINGEN 

such furniture, tapestries, brocades and bric-a-brac, and they 
are so modest with it all, and you would have thought I was 
a queen the way they treated me. 

Sigmaringen, Sunday 22nd August, 1897. 
We were invited Thursday by the Prince and Princess of 
Hohenzollern to spend the afternoon and take supper at their 
country residence. It rained so terribly that the Hof Marshall 
sent us word to come only to supper at 7.30. They sent the 
Royal carriages with crowns on the lining at 6.30 and we drove 
nearly an hour. We were taken up to a room lighted with 
candles and then they came in a hurry to say the Prince was 
waiting, so we had to fly down and the first thing I knew I was 
leaving the drawing room on the arm of the man who unwit- 
tingly caused the Franco-Prussian war. 

320 



GERMANY 

We entered the dining room between two rows of servants 
in livery and one man in full uniform also waited on us. Every 
one stood until the Prince and I were seated. Frank sat with one 
of the Maids of Honor and Countess Adelmann was on the other 
side of the Prince. When the champagne came the Prince drank 




THE FAMILY ADELMANN AND MRS. F. H. ROSENGARTEN 



first my health and then Frank's. I have kept the menu and the 
namesofthepeopleattable. Itwas all very informal and I wished 
I had Mrs. Whelen's talents and my own voice to entertain 
them, but I did my best and I think they were all amused. 
After supper the Prince said we would play nine pins and 
before I knew it, in my Shaker cloak, which was much ad- 
mired, I was alone in a Sedan chair, which had been arranged 
on two wheels and drawn by a valet in livery to another 
entrance, through the rain, where the Prince received me. 
Then we all played and had tea, beer and mineral waters. 
The Princess goes to bed at 6 o'clock, so we couldn't see 
her, as the rain prevented our going in the afternoon. Can 
you imagine sister Mary going through all this with head up 
high? They were to leave for Ragatz next day and Friday 
night three of the maids of honor came to supper here and a 

Count Bruhl and Count Gallen and I taught them Grabuge 
21 321 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and they were delighted. Before he left the Prince gave orders 
that his coach and four were to be sent to take us out for a 
drive. Yesterday we spent the whole day making the excur- 
sion to Hohenzollern, a magnificent stronghold on top of a 
mountain. This Prince owned it all, but gave half the owner- 
ship of the Castle to the Kaiser in 1850 when there was a 
rebellion here and he ceded many of his lands to Prussia. 

To-morrow we leave for Munich, stopping first at Ulm for 
a few hours and spend the night at Augsburg and get to Munich 
Tuesday eve. We stay there until Saturday and come back 
to Ulm where we meet Count Adelmann and all go to 
Hohenstadt, their castle and estate. The family comes from 
Adelmanns-felden, near by, and in the 15th century acquired 
Hohenstadt.* Some of the family still live at Adelmanns- 
felden and they also have a great house in some other place. 

We passed in coming from the Black Forest an old ruin 
on a high hill called Hohenstauffen where Adelmann's mother's 
family lived. His grandfather and grandmother's portraits are 
beautiful. They have a dreadful picture of severing a man's 
hand from the arm, showing their power of life and death in 
the old times over their peasants. 

I must send this off at once. I don't get a minute to do 

anything. Count Adelmann never forgets little Laura and 

wanted to know all about her. They think they may come 

over for their silver wedding two years from now. 

With much love, 

ArT'ly., yours, M. D. R. 

Sigmaringen, Aug. 22nd, 1897. 

Sunday — Raining. 
Dear Cliff and Sam, 

Here we are still and enough cut out for us to keep us here 
a month, so hospitable are our hosts. This afternoon the 
Prince's four-in-hand is to come to take us driving, but alas 
it is raining. I wrote you about our evening at the Palace. 

*We were invited in 1907 to come and join in the celebration of the acquisition of 
Hohenstadt by the Adelmann family, which occurred in 1407! 

322 



GERMANY 

Yesterday we went to the famous Castle of Hohenzollern at 
Hechingen and I renewed the delights of a visit there 30 years 
ago. 

To-morrow we are to leave for Ulm and Augsburg. Young 
Raban Adelmann and his sister Mechtilde are to go with us as 
our guests. We arrive in Munich on Tuesday and stay there 
till Saturday. Then we go to Count Adelmann's estate to 
remain two days and then we must move on towards Paris. 

We have enjoyed our visit here beyond our ability to de- 
scribe. The family are all most intelligent and there is no end 
to their hospitality. Night before last Graf A. gave an Ameri- 
can supper for us, tomatoes, green corn, flannel cakes and 
other American things that are unknown here (the seeds and 
formulas he got at Jamestown in 1893), and had the Court 
ladies and several Counts and your Mother taught them 
"Grabouche" and we had lots of fun. I dread to say good-bye 
— everyone has been so kind and we feel as if we were per- 
fectly at home. The Prince was most cordial and thanked 
us for visiting him. So good-bye and best love, 

Affy., F. H. R. 

We hope to be in Paris on the 5th. 

Aug. 23rd 1897, 10 A. M. — Raining. 
Dear W, 

We have been here eight days with Count Adelmann and 
have been overwhelmed with attentions, dined with the Prince 
in the summer palace. He sent his four-in-hand to take us 
driving and we have been to the most romantic castles, cloisters 
and visited the wonderful museums and collections of arms 
here. So time has flown and no letters written. We must 
tell you all about it when we come back. 

We are to leave at 1 o'clock for Ulm, Augsburg and Munich 
and remain in Munich till Saturday when we go to Hohen- 
stadt, Graf Adelmann's own castle, for two days and by the 
time this reaches you we will be back in Paris, where we stay 
till the 22nd of Sept., on the 25th we sail for home. The 

323 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Danube is beginning to run very full owing to the rain. Mary 
is in her element but feels under deepest obligations for her 
reception here. 

Yours ever, Frank. 

Sigmaringen, Aug. 23 rd, 1897. 

11 A. M. — raining. 
Dear Cliff, 

At last the time has come for us to leave here and we go 

at 1 to Ulm and Augsburg and Munich. While much of the 

time we have had rain our visit has been a series of delightful 




THE EXCURSION TO NIEBELUNGEN LAND IN ROYAL EQUIPAGES 

experiences. Since I wrote you we have visited Castle Hohen- 
zollern Hechingen. Yesterday the Prince sent his four in hand 
and another carriage and a big party of us had a glorious 
drive along the Danube. The Adelmanns have been untiring 
in their thought of our comforts and pleasures and your 
Mother is overwhelmed with their attentions. The son Graf 

324 



GERMANY 




COUNT ADELMAN AND WIFE AND M. D. R. 




^^■bs****-- 




HOHENZOLLERN HECHINGEN 

Ancient home of the Hohenzollern Dynasty 



325 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 




SALON, SCHLOSS HOHENZOLLERN, SIGMARINGEN 




"HOP KAMMER," SIGMARINGEN 
Adelmann's home as Hof Kammer — President 



326 



GERMANY 




ENTRANCE TO SCHLOSS HOHENZOLLERN, HECHINGEN 




: 



THE LUNCH AT SCHLOSS HOHENZOLLERN, HECHINGEN 
327 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Raban goes with us to Munich where we stay until Saturday 
and then we go to Hohenstadt, Graf Adelmann's Schloss. He 
lives in a government building here, being the President of 
the Prince's establishment. It is a big building with offices 
on the ist floor and his residence occupying the whole second 
story. He has a beautiful garden and on Friday gave us an 
American supper of green corn, tomatoes, flannel cakes and 
lots of things he learned of and brought from America. His 
wife and children are charming people and on close footing 
of friendship with the Prince, also the King of Wurttemberg 
and the Emperor. Naturally we feel a little awkward meeting 
all the fine people but we find them all cultivated and most 
courteous to us. Adelmann is so cordial in his expression of 
friendship I feel sad at parting with him, as I shall hardly dare 
to come to Europe again and he will have to come to us. We 
will have lots to talk about on our return. And with love to 
you and all, 

Afiy. yrs., F. H. R. 

Hotel Bayerischer Hof, 
Munich, 27th August, 1897. 
My Dear Boys, 

Here we are still, arriving Tuesday evening and expecting 
to leave for Hohenstadt, Graf Adelmann's Estate, to-morrow 
noon and remain there till Monday. Thence we work our 
way gradually to Paris, where I shall be glad to get a rest. 
Here we have been on the go with Count Raban Adelmann, 
going to concerts, theatres and the Opera in the evenings, 
and seeing pictures in the day time. Your Mother is perfectly 
wild to buy things and as I am not interested in the sort of 
things she is, nor in the trouble of getting purchases to Phila- 
delphia, she makes little progress. 

Munich is a very interesting place, but this Hotel is not 
cheerful. The art life here is intense but without suitable 
people to show us around, naturally we lose more time trying 
to make up our minds what to see than we take in seeing them. 

328 



GERMANY 




HOTEL BAYERISCHER HOF, MUNICH 



Mm 



S' 




^HRlNf M% ty ft 




THE OPERA HOUSE, MUNICH 



329 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

The weather is most treacherous and every day the rain comes 
at intervals so one has to trust to an umbrella to keep dry. 
However we have been fortunate to escape a wetting. Your 
last letters were dated about the 12th of August and gave us 
much comfort. 

Your Mother is as enthusiastic as ever, altho she tires 
easily and I have to obey her wishes. Uncle Joe is still at 
Hombourg and expects to be there until 6th or 7th of Septem- 
ber. So with love to all our dear ones, remembrances to the 
servants and best wishes for your happiness, 

As ever Your affectionate, F. H. R. 

Schloss Hohenstadt, 
August 29th, 1897. 
Dear Laura, 

Just a week since I wrote you from Sigmaringen and when 
the Prince sent his break and four horses to take us driving. 
We went to a beautiful valley where there was a cave exactly 
like the one in Siegfried where the dragon stays. We went to 
Ulm, Monday at one o'clock, taking Raban with us and got 
there at four, took a carriage and drove all around and found 
it very curious and interesting, not in any way modern — and 
dined there and went on to Augsburg for the night. We slept 
at the "Drei Mohren," Three Moors, and it is next to the 
Fugger House, and in the hall of the hotel is the chimney piece 
where the old Fugger threw the bonds of Charles the Fifth 
into the fire. 

Augsburg we also found very ancient and interesting, the 
magnificent Cathedral, RattiHaus, &c. taking all our morning 
and we took the afternoon train to Munich. There we were 
busy looking at the New and Old Palaces filled with gorgeous 
things and the Old and New picture galleries and antiquary 
shops all day long. 

The second evening we spent at the Residenz Theatre at a 
performance of "Cosi fan tutti" by Mozart. The Theatre 
was very richly decorated in rococo style and the perform- 

330 



GERMANY 

ance excellent. The first night I forgot to say we went to 
the Kaim Concert, a splendid orchestra of 85, and a big organ. 
I brought the program with me. 

Thursday night we went to see "Tristan and Isolde" at 
the Royal Opera House, Vogl singing Tristan. I got so tired 
before the last act I had to come home. The last evening the 
others went to the "Fledermaus" and I stayed at home and 




ty tfSrfz/sp/: 



packed the trunks so as to haveJSaturday morning free and I 
bought an! old clock for the library mantel. Saturday at one 
we, took a fast train back to Ulm where Count Adelmann met 
us and an hour and a half brought us to Aalen, when a carriage 
was waiting with a coachman in greenish gray Tyrolean or 
Jager costume and we drove ten miles mostly up hill to this 
place. 

I expected a good deal but I was not at all prepared for the 
size of the castle and church. There is a circle of mountains 

331 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

in the distance and we look down from every window on a 
magnificent panorama. The staircase is superb and the steps 
so low that in the old French wars once the French officers 
rode their horses all the way up. The first room was an enor- 
mous hall, at least 30 ft. by 50 ft., perhaps more, with a music 
gallery at one end and the rooms all open on it, with double 
doors. It is hung with old portraits and decorated in plaster 
in rococo style and all the ceilings of the rooms are similar, 
as also the church. 




SCHLOSS HOHENSTADT 
The Home of the Adelmann Family 



We arrived after seven in time for supper, which was de- 
licious, and went to bed early. This morning we went to 
church at nine o'clock after this fashion. We went a short 
way from the Castle through a cloister formerly covered, into 
a tower and up a high staircase, which brought us into a room 
just over the chancel and with a long window into the church 
just like a proscenium box at the Opera, with a beautiful gilt 
frame and glass windows pushed up, red velvet cushions to 
kneel on and lean on and after the sermon the priest prayed 

332 



GERMANY 




AUGSBURG CATHEDRAL 




ROYAL CARRIAGES OF PRINCE LEOPOLD OF HOHENZOLLERN 



333 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

for the Adelmann family. They lived at Adelmannsfelden, 
their old home a thousand or twelve hundred years ago and 
own it yet, and bought this place in 1407, I think it was, and 
have been Lords of the Manor ever since. 

After service we went down and visited the church. It 
was built by an Adelmann and very large and handsome and 
the service was very impressive. In front of the Chancel was 
a large tablet in the floor with a huge colored coat of arms, 
which turned out to be the door to the crypt, where the family 




PRINCE LEOPOLD OF HOHENZOLLERN 



is all buried. Afterwards we went into the garden, which is 
laid out like Versailles. It was made by an ancestor, a lady, 
whose husband (an Adelmann) was Minister to France, and 
there she got the idea. Long arbors and rows of high trimmed 
trees and orangeries down the middle with exquisite views 
over the mountains. 

The furniture here makes one weep with envy and how 
perfect it must have been here before they took away all they 
have at Sigmaringen. They have a replica of the great stone 
tablet that the Austrians took from them, in the Church, of 

334 



GERMANY 




STAIRCASE, SCHLOSS HOHENSTADT 




A PART OF THE GARDEN OF SCHLOSS HOHENSTADT 
335 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

the Adelmann who was killed on his return from the Crusades 
by a neighboring Baron. I believe the descendants of that 
very man still live here and they are all friends now. 

I have made a little spot where our rooms are on the pic- 
ture at the head of this paper and the moat is down below 
filled with big fish which look just like gold fish but are not. 
From the dining room and salon you look straight down a 
fearful depth to the ground, and then there is a slope way off 
to the valley covered with orchards. Frank has taken pic- 
tures of everything and if they turn out all right you will have 
a very good idea of the place. 




§> 




CHURCH OF HOHENSTADT 



You feel as if you were high up in the mountains, but it 
is not really so high, and I never saw a more glorious view. 
We are eating delicious green corn as sweet as sugar and such 
flannel cakes as we never get, and strange to say, baked with- 
out any fat on the griddle. We leave Tuesday morning for 
Stuttgart and Tubingen and go into the Vosges on our way 

336 



GERMANY 

to Paris. Please send this to Cliff and ask him to keep it 
carefully. I was glad to hear of your cheerful surroundings 
at Jamestown and hope it may last. With much love to all, 

Amy. yours, M. D. R. 

Schloss Hohenstadt, 

Aug. 29th, 1897. 
Dear Clifford, 

I write in a hurry to tell you of our arrival here last evening 
and with all our expectations more than realized. A real old 
castle with village and church attached. We spent four days 




COUNTESS ADELMANN'S BOUDOIR, SCHLOSS HOHENSTADT 

in Munich and had young Adelmann with us — went to theatre 

and Opera, &c, &c. 

We go from here day after to-morrow to Stuttgart and 

Tubingen two or three days in the Vosges on our way to Paris. 

I don't know why your Father don't care to go to Hombourg 

to see the Parade. 

22 337 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Can you imagine me sitting up in a proscenium box at 
church to-day with velvet cushions and gilt frame like the 
Empress Frederick at the old Schloss at Hombourg? Only 
it is much more elegant and talk about portraits of ancestors, 
everywhere, and coats of arms and the crypt where all the 
Adelmanns are buried under the chancel! They prayed for 
the family just after the sermon. I fear it will be hard to 
become an ordinary person after speaking with nothing be- 
low a Count or Baron, each one with a castle attached. 




BANQUET HALL, SCHLOSS HOHENSTADT 

The waiter man here wears a hunting costume of greyish- 
green, which is beautiful and just in keeping with the room 
and furnishings. I am bringing back the recipe for souffle au 
chocolat, you never tasted such good things to eat in your 
life, and they know how to live. The staircase is superb. 
In the French wars once the French officers rode up the stair- 
case on horseback. 

The manoeuvres are to take place in the neighborhood and 

338 



GERMANY 

they are to entertain eleven officers for ten days, among them 
two Princes, &c, &c. 

I must stop and we shall not cease to regret that you 
couldn't have seen all this.* I must go to supper, so good-bye. 

With much love, 

Your aff. Mother, M. D. R. 

Hotel Marquardt, Stuttgart, 
Tuesday, Aug. 31st, 1897, 11 P. M. 
Dear Cliff and Sam, 

We said good-bye to-day to the Adelmann family at their 
Schloss at Hohenstadt, near Aalen in Wurtemberg after four 
days of most delightful hospitality from them. Hohenstadt 
consists of a dozen or more farms and large forests and the 
Schloss and grounds have been in the family since the 15th 
Century. 

The Schloss is wonderfully interesting but it is so late I 
wont attempt to describe it now as we are to leave to-morrow 
at 8.30 for Tubingen, stay there to dinner and then go on to 
Freudenstadt in the Black Forest for the night. Thursday we 
drive over the highest roads there and reach Strasbourg for 
the night and Paris by Saturday. 

Graf Adelmann's family, wife, son Raban and daughter 
Mechtilde are cultivated, handsome people, and we enjoyed 
being with them and they begged us to stay longer but as they 
must quarter 14 officers (a Prince will have the rooms we had) 
and 150. soldiers for ten days during the army manoeuvres 
beginning on the 8th of Sept., we felt we could not intrude 
longer. 

Raban is a splendid fellow and is studying law and will 
enter the government service, his brother inheriting the estate 
and title. 

Your affectionate, F. H. R. 

We hope to get a pile of letters at Strasbourg on Thursday. 

*With our sons we revisited Hohenstadt in 1900 and shared in the celebration of the 
Adelmann Silver Wedding. 

339 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Schwarzwald — Hotel in Freudenstadt, 
September 1st, 1897, Wed. 8.30 P. M. 
.Dear Boys: 

Here we are in a curious place at the edge of the east side 
of the Black Forest, on our way across the Forest to Stras- 
bourg and Paris. We left Hohenstadt, Graf Adelmann's 
Schloss, yesterday afternoon and spent the night in Stuttgart. 
This morning we left Stuttgart at 8.20 for Tubingen, reaching 
there at 10.20 and taking a cab drove all over, saw the many 
familiar places and the Dungeons under the Castle, etc. At 
1.30 we left for this place, but had to change trains three times 
and the hot weather nearly used up your Mother. 

This place is very high and the Doctors send their patients 
here after the "cure" in Hombourg and other places. The 
Hotel is neat and clean but there are few English-speaking 
people and none of them interesting looking. We take a 
carriage to-morrow and drive about 20 miles and then take 
train to Strasbourg. 

I hope to find a lot of letters at Strasbourg with good news 
of you both. I wonder if Sam has started the Acme towards 
home and attended to having the Custom House papers fixed 
in Newport. 

So good night with our best love. 

Affectionately, F. H. R. 




FRANCE 



The Normandy Hotel, 
Paris, September 3rd, 1897. 
Dear Boys, 

Here we are a day ahead of our schedule, owing to unceas- 
ing rain storms in Germany. 

We left Hohenstadt (Count Adelmann's Castle), on Tues- 
day and spent that night in Stuttgart. Next morning bright 
and early we went to Tubingen, my old University town, and 
had a most interesting visit there, but met no acquaintances 
there as the vacation is now on. In the afternoon we went 
on to Freudenstadt, a pretty mountain resort on the border 
of the Black Forest and spent the night there. Yesterday 
morning we left there in bright sunshine in a good team 
to drive through the highest part of the Black Forest, but 
were hardly started before a dreadful rain storm came on and 
we saw very little of the beauties of that interesting region. 
Fortunately we got through without a wetting and took a 
train at Oppenau for Strasbourg. There we went to the Hotel 
Ville de Paris to stay all night and to go to-day to the Vosges. 

Alas ! we woke up to find heavy rain so we concluded to come 
right on to Paris and now we are glad we did as the ride was 
cool and no dust and we had the good fortune to meet Mrs. 
Dr. Thos. Conrad (Aunt of Percy Frazer) and Miss Hutch- 
inson, Aunt of Margaretta H. — your friend, two very lovely 
women and we had the first jolly railroad ride yet. 

341 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

This Hotel is crowded with Americans but not one single 
face familiar to us. Mr. Elias has not turned up as we had 
hoped for and no letters here from home. Your Mother keeps 
wonderfully well. 

We shall make this our Headquarters till about the 21 st 
of September and then work our way towards Havre, whence 




THE CHEMICAL LABORATORY, UNIVERSITY OF TUBINGEN 

we now expect to sail on the 25th on the French liner Touraine 
and hope to reach New York by the 1st of October. 

F. H. R. 



The Normandy Hotel, 
Paris, 6th Sept., 1897. 
Dear Sam, 

We are having continuous rainy weather and to-day is 
forbidding. Fortunately this Hotel is very comfortable and 
we manage to pass the time, especially as a big batch of 
"Ledgers" came from Wm. Cotter, who has faithfully remem- 
bered me in our wanderings. 

I suppose by this time the Yachts have pretty well disap- 

342 



FRANCE 

peared from the Bay and Jamestown is pretty well cleaned 
out of Summer folks. You no doubt will soon be starting Jim 
homeward with the boat. 

We, too, were glad to read in the Paris Herald that Wrenn 
had again won the Championship, notwithstanding the rain. 
Curiously enough the Tennis Tournament at Hombourg was 
spoiled by rain, too. 

Your Mother is busy with her shopping here and keeps 
me running errands. We are to sail on the 25th — 19 days 
more, so the time will pass quickly I am sure. If you are near 
New York about the 1st or 2nd of October look us up at 
the French Line Dock. 

I suppose I will hardly receive the answer to this letter as 
it will not reach you until the 16th and we leave Paris on the 
23rd or 24th. 

Yrs. F. H. R. 

The Normandy Hotel, 

Paris, 9th September, 1897. 
Dear Laura, 

I haven't had a moment in which to write since we left 
Hohenstadt. That Sunday I wrote you a full description of 
everything but shall have plenty to tell when I get home. We « 
went to Stuttgart and Tubingen and then to Freudenstadt in 
the Black Forest, and drove in a pouring rain over a high 
mountain and down through a beautiful valley where there 
were numerous watering places and very attractive looking 
ones, where I should like to go sometime. We enjoyed it in 
spite of the rain and got to Strasbourg that night. 

From there we intended to go into the Vosges Mts., but 
it was raining so hard that we gave it up and took the fast 
train to Paris, and here we are. I, of course, was laid up for 
several days and had headache and the weather has been 
horrid so I have lost almost a week. We went to church Sun- 
day morning. 

I at first had decided not to buy anything, but got inter- 

343 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

ested and now think I will get a silk dress and a ball dress as 
I may not come again and I shall not grow younger and it 
seems to me if I am ever going to have anything I should have 
it now and not worry about it, but the prices are terrible at 
the good places and I haven't the strength of mind or body to 
go around getting prices and making comparisons. 

Last night we amused ourselves by going to the "Diner de 
Paris" in the Passage Jouffroy, where Father and I used to 
go and we had a delicious dinner, but it was all so old fashioned 
and different from the Americanized hotels. 

As I was sitting here writing who should come in but 
young Miss Boyd from Phila., and her aunt, who have been 
visiting an aunt in Loches near Tours, so now we are all writ- 
ing and talking together. I get tired very easily and when I 
am tired I have no sense and consequently cannot do much 
of any shopping. I cannot tell you how I dread the trip home, 
while Frank is counting the hours. 

We are going to make a two-days' trip, to Rheims, Laon, 
Pierrefonds, Compiegne and Beauvais, when it clears, and 
will stop at Rouen on our way to Havre, probably leaving 
here the 23rd. I am so tired I must go to bed, so good bye 
and don't be surprised if I don't write again, as I shall be in a 
whirl. With love to all, 

Your aff. M. D. R. 

The Normandy Hotel, 
Paris, 9th September, 1897. 
Dear Sam, 

Your welcome letter of the 29th of August came today 
and was the only bright thing about. Here we are pursued 
with rain and cold. Your Mother seems to enjoy everything 
and cannot understand why I am cold. I am glad you have 
had some compensation in the way of warm weather and can 
enjoy some sailing. 

Paris is a most impressive place, a mixture of modern 
newness with much that is quaint and old and everything 

344 



FRANCE 

artistic and satisfying to the eye. The wonderful galleries 
and Museums of the Louvre, Luxembourg, Versailles and 
other places are simply beyond description. This afternoon I 
drove across the Seine (where we live is north of the Seine) to 
the Latin quarter and saw the Museum of the Luxembourg, 
wonderful modern sculptures and paintings and then past 
the Ecole Polytechnic and other wonderful buildings to the 
Pantheon, where great Frenchmen are buried. We saw the 
Palace of the Senate and a beautiful Park surrounding it. 

Thus one thing after another springs up most unexpectedly 
and each one of great historic interest. Owing to the rainy 
cold weather we have been disappointed in excursions to St. 
Cloud, St. Denis and many other places in the neighbor- 
hood. However some of these days you and Cliff must come 
over here and travel and see all these fine things with your 
own eyes. 

Last night your Mother took me to the Cafe "Diner de 
Paris " in one of the Arcades on the Boulevard Montmartre, 
dinner at 50 cts. and very good, but everything so different 
from home. We had lots of fun and ate odd French dishes. 
The Artichokes were splendid and quite new to me. Fruit 
here is superb, Cantaloupes, Peaches, Pears, Plums and Grapes 
and in profusion, though expensive. You would like the food, 
it is all cooked with such a delicious flavor. We take a simple 
breakfast and lunch and I drink but little wine, altho wine 
here is served as part of the dinner. The table d'hote begins 
about 6.30 and is quite an elaborate meal and about 60 or 70 
sit down in a pretty room. 

Nearly every person in the house is English or American, 
but you might think they were all condemned to silence there 
is such an entire absence of fun or intercourse. Your Mother 
goes ahead, however, and how she is going to get things home 
is a mystery to me. She buys for the house principally. 

Well dinner is ready so I will run. I send this to 1905 as 
you will either be there by the time it comes or they can for- 
ward it. Tomorrow we go to the Opera. We leave here about 

345 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

the 22nd or 23rd for Havre and sail at 8 a. m. on the 25th 
and are due in N. Y. late Oct. 1st or early Oct. 2nd, French 
Line. Good bye, 

Affy., F. H. R. 

The Normandy Hotel, 
Paris, Tuesday, Sept. 14, 1897. 
Dear Cliff and Sam, 

Here it is cold enough to wear thick winter clothing and an 
overcoat at night. Your Mother keeps well and works hard 
at her shopping and dress making and must be pretty near 
bankrupt by this time. 




THE ROMAN ARCH, RHEIMS 



We have just returned from a two-days' outing to Com- 
piegne, Pierrefonds, Laon and Rheims. Compiegne is a won- 
derful Chateau of Napoleon 1st, with a Park and Forest of 
48,000 acres. We drove from there to Pierrefonds where Napo- 
leon III restored a curious but grand old castle, which, while 
quite modern in look, exactly represents the former structure. 
Laon has a very interesting church on a hill like Mont St. 
Michel, coming up out of a flat plain. Rheims has several 
fine churches and a Roman arch. Your Mother, of course, 
saw them very quickly but enjoyed it immensely. 

346 



FRANCE 




COURT OF CASTLE PIERREFONDS, NEAR COMPIEGNE 




COMPIEGNE, FROM THE PALACE 



347 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We shall probably leave here on the 22nd or 23 rd for Havre, 
and be with Mr. Thackara, the Consul, there on the 23rd and 
24th, so if necessary you could wire us to his care but I hope 
there will be no occasion to do so. 




LAON 

A Curious Ancient Town, Now (1917) Headquarters of the German Army 

I will be with you in 18 days I hope and then we can have 
some good talks and enjoyable times together. 

Affy. as ever, F. H. R. 

My photos of Hohenstadt are capital. 



The Normandy Hotel, 
Paris, 17th Sept., 1897. 
Dear Laura, 

This will be my last letter, and I ought to be in bed now. 
as I am not at all well. In fact I haven't been well in Paris at 
all. We went away to Compiegne, Pierrefonds, Laon and 
Rheims, and were gone Sunday and Monday. 

348 



FRANCE 




SALON. CHATEAU de COMPIEGNE 




L 



THE CATHEDRAL, RHEIMS 
349 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

The other young Adelmann came to-night on his way home 
from England. He looks a little like George and has his voice 
exactly — is very nice but looks very delicate. We leave Paris 
Thursday, 23rd, and stay over night at Rouen and will dine 




ABOARD THE "TOURAINE" AT HAVRE, SEPTEMBER 24, 1897 

with the Thackaras Friday night at Havre. I can't tell you 
how I dread the trip home. Good bye, with love to all, 

Affly., M. D. R. 

Hotel Normandy, Sunday, Sept. 19, 1897. 
Dear Cliff and Sam, 

This is our last Sunday on this side and the days fly away 
quickly. We were surprised to have a telegram from Count 
Sigmund Adelmann from Margate, saying he would visit us 
here and so on Friday night he arrived. He is blond and 
smaller than Raban but is a very bright manly fellow and 
enjoys sight seeing with your Mother. As we leave on Thurs- 
day for Rouen and Havre he will not have very long with us. 

350 



FRANCE 

He goes to Berlin in October to hear the law lectures and 
next year passes his first examinations, then he goes into some 
position for three years and makes a second examination and 
gets into a government position. It is quite a different sort of 







THE "TOURAINE' 



thing in Germany to study law, from our methods, doubtless 
owing to the immense numbers of University men and the 
competition for a career. 

Naturally I think much of home and you and Sam and 
hope you have cooler weather and that Sam arrived safely 
on the Acme. 

Report to Uncle Harry and the others our welfare and that 
I hope Dolphy and young Mitchell did not have to go to the 
coal regions with the City Troop for the coal strike. So good 
bye and best wishes and love from your Mother and me and 
greetings to you from Count Sigmund Adelmann. 

Affy., F. H. R. 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1900 



23 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1900 

With the Paris Exposition as a great attraction, the 
writer with her husband and two sons sailed in May aboard 
the Steamship St. Paul and landed at Southampton, thence 
going to the New Forest, Winchester, and London. 

The Exposition in Paris more than fulfilled anticipations. 

The unveiling of the monument to Rochambeau at Ven- 
dome made the visit there memorable and the cordial greet- 
ings of the Marquise de Rochambeau more firmly cemented 
the old friendship with her. 

The customary visit to Hombourg and the "Kur" there 
and thence the trip to Sigmaringen to visit the Count and 
Countess Adelmann, followed. In order to give the Count- 
ess Adelmann opportunity to prepare for the silver wedding 
at the Castle at Hohenstadt, the journey to Munich, the castles 
of the King of Bavaria and to Innsbruck and by the beautiful 
Fern Pass to Neuschwanstein and to the Passion Play at 
Oberammergau, was undertaken, while the Countess moved 
her household from Sigmaringen to Hohenstadt. 

The Silver Wedding at Schloss Hohenstadt was a memor- 
able function and at the dinner nearly a hundred telegrams 
of congratulation were read, among them ones from Emperor 
William, the King of Wurtemberg, the Prince of Hohen- 
zollern and other distinguished friends of the bridal pair. 

Then followed the visits to Switzerland, the Vosges 
(where war scenes of 1914-1917 are now progressing)^ Paris 
and the return to America. 



INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1900 

S. S. ST. PAUL 



Rough Weather May 24, 1900 359 

Young Swedish woman 

washed overboard May 24, 1900 359 

Grand Hotel, Lyndhurst, 

New Forest May 26, 1900 360 

Winchester and the 

Cathedral May 26, 1900 360 

Beautiful flowers and 

shrubs, etc May 26, 1900 362 

"Bewley Abbey"; Beau- 
lieu, Home of Lord 

Montague May 26, 1900 362 

Stony Cross and Sir Wm. 

Harcourt's House May 26, 1900 362 

London June 7, 1900 363 

Paris, Hotel Columbia. June 7, 1900 363 
Terrible crossing from 

Dover to Calais June 7,1900 363 

Vendome and the un- 
veiling of the Monu- 
ment of Rochambeau June 7, 1900 364 
The ceremonies and cor- 
dial greetings of the 
Countess Rochambeau. June 7, 1900 364 
General Horace Porter. June 7, 1900 364 
Escorted by town author- 
ities June 7, 1900 364 

Homes of Guzman-Bianco 

and Queen Isabella. . .June 7,1900 366 

Infanta Eulalia June 7, 1900 366 

Paris Exposition of 1900 June 7,1900 366 
Palais des Beaux Arts, 

Arc de Triomphe June 7,1900 366 

Mrs. Eads Hazard's break- 
fast at Cafe d'Armen- 

onville June 22, 1900 367 

Hunting and purchasing 

tapestries June 22, 1900 367 

Gladys Unger and her 

portraits of us June 22, 1900 368 

Julian's studio June 22, 1900 368 

Interesting visits to Ger- 
ome, Bouguereau and 

Jan Van Beers June 22, 1900 368 

Shown through the homes June 22, 1900 368 

Theatre des Danses, 

cafes, pavilions and 

trip to Peking on the 

Trans Siberian, Train 

de Luxe June 22, 1900 369 

Sarah Bernhardt in 

L'Aiglon June 22, 1900 369 

"Andalusia" at the Ex- 
position June 22, 1900 369 

357 



Tea at "Ceylon," Coffee 

at Spanish Restaurant July 1, 1900 370 
Wonderful Swiss Village July 1, 1900 370 
Rue des Nations and the 

Foreign Pavilions July 1, 1900 371 

4th of July at the Ambas- 
sador's July 7, 1900 372 

Hombourg, via Metz and 

Mayence July 7, 1900 372 

Royal Hotel Victoria July 7, 1900 372 

Cool weather July 7, 1900 372 

Lugano July 11, 1900 373 

Hombourg July 22, 1900 374 

Saalburg July 22, 1900 375 

Koenigstein July 22, 1900 375 

Cronberg July 22, 1900 375 

Empress Frederick's cas- 
tle July 22, 1900 376 

Palace Hotel, St. Moritzjuly 23, 1900 376 
Meeting Twombleys and 

Vanderbilts July 23, 1900 376 

Anxiety about War with 

China July 23, 1900 377 

Hombourg July 27, 1900 377 

Kaiser Wilhelm's energy July 27, 1900 378 

Hardtwood July 27, 1900 378 

Frederichs-Dorf July 27, 1900 378 

Koenigstein July 27, 1900 378 

Sigmaringen Aug. 3, 1900 379 

Sousa's Band at Frank- 
furt Aug. 3, 1900 379 

Intense heat Aug. 3, 1900 379 

Stuttgart Aug. 3, 1900 379 

Death of King of Italy Aug. 3, 1900 380 
Innsbruck, Hotel Tirol Aug. 11, 1900 380 

Castle Ambass Aug. 11, 1900 381 

Perplexing currency Aug. 11, 1900 381 

Hall Imst Aug. 13, 1900 383 

Nassareit Aug. 13, 1900 383 

Fern Pass Aug. 13, 1900 383 

Tegern See Aug. 20, 1900 385 

Neuschwanstein, fres- 
coes, etc Aug. 24, 1900 390 

Castle Hohenschwangau.Aug. 24, 1900 392 

Oberammergau Aug. 24, 1900 392 

Drive through Forests. . .Aug. 24, 1900 392 
The Passion Play, de- 
scription of Munich. . .Aug. 24, 1900 393 

Hohenstadt Aug. 25, 1900 395 

Silver Wedding Aug. 25, 1900 395 

Altar in the Church Aug. 25, 1900 397 

The Silver Wedding of 
Count and Countess 
Adelmann Aug. 25, 1900 397 



INDEX 



The "Baumkuchen" 
from Pomerania Aug. 

The Dinner and Curi- 
ous old musicians Aug. 

Manoeuvres and Aus- 
trian Soldiers . .Aug. 

General Von Cam- 
erer's Reveille Aug. 

Uhlans Aug. 

Count Szeil Aug. 

Fireworks .Aug. 

Decorating band leader Aug. 

Departure of the troops Aug. 

Splendor of soldiers Aug. 

96 Telegrams of con- 
gratulations from the 
Kaiser, King of Wur- 
temberg, Prince of 
Hohenzollern, etc Aug. 

Old Tubingen student 
songs Aug. 

The Regimental Band. . .Aug. 

Presenting red, white 
■ and blue asters to 
band master Aug. 

Wonderful uniforms Aug. 

Beautiful songs by vil- 
lage choir and band Aug. 

Play at the Kindergarten Aug. 

Castle and garden of 
Baron Konig and its 
treasures Aug. 

Pheasant shooting Aug. 

Ellwangen and Adel- 

mannsfelden Aug. 29, 1900 406 



2 5> 1900^ 399 
25, 1900 399 
25, 1900] 402 



25, 1900 402 

25, 1900 402 

25, 1900 402 

25, 1900 404 

25, 1900 403 

25, 1900 403 

25, 1900 403 



25, 1900 400 

25, 1900 402 
25, 1900 403 



25, 1900 403 

25, 1900 403 

25, 1900 404 

26, 1900 404 



26, 1900 405 
29, 1900 406 



Laubach in Leinthal Aug. 29, 1900 408 

Dungeons Aug. 29, 1900 408 

Purchases of antiquities 
there, church lamp, 

etc , ;Sept. 2, 1900 409 

Lucerne Sept. 6, 1900 410 

Constance, Insel Hotel Sept. 6, 1900 410 

Zurich, Land Museum. . .Sept. 6, 1900 411 

Duse Sept. 6, 1900 41 1 

Ascent of Mt. Pilatus. . . .Sept. 6, 1900 411 
Letter from top of Moun- 
tain Sept. 7, 1900 412 

Munster Sept. 9, 1900 412 

Hotel Altenberg Sept.n, 1900 413 

Basle, Colmar Sept.u, 1900 413 

Schlucht and Munster 

Thai Sept.u, 1900 413 

Gerardmer Sept.u, 1900 413 

Hotel du Lac Sept.u, 1900 413 

Oberrheinheim Sept.u, 1900 413 

Odilienberg Sept.u, 1900 413 

Strassburg . .Sept.u, 1900 413 

Metz and the Battle- 
fields of 1870, and 

Cathedral Sept.u, 1900 413 

Treves, Roman ruins. . . .Sept.u, 1900 413 

Marquis of Salisbury. . . .Sept.u, 1900 413 
Beauties of the Vosges 

region Sept.13, 1900 414 

Hotel Porta Nigra, 

Trier Sept.15, 1900 414 

Regiment of Artillery. . . .Sept.15, I 9°° 4 T 5 

Gravelotte Sept.15, 1900 415 

Paris Sept. 18, 1900 416 

Bedford Hotel Sept. 18, 1900 416 

Hotel France and Choi- 

seul Sept.18, 1900 417 




ENGLAND 



Grand Hotel, Lyndhurst, New Forest 

May 24th, 1900. 
Dear Fanny, 

As you see we are here after many efforts, and think we 
are in heaven, or did last night. As it is raining this morning 
we are a little discouraged, for we expected to see everything 
in one drive and move on to Winchester and London to-morrow. 

We left New York in perfect weather which continued 
several days, but then it got terribly rough and we had great 
waves following the ship, which swept off a poor young 
Swedish woman and (altho the ship turned around and threw 
buoys) she was overwhelmed by an enormous wave and not 
seen again. The turning of that great ship in that awful sea 
was something wonderful. The whole thing cast such a gloom 
over the ship's company we could hardly wait to get off it. 

We came right out here by the first train, as the boys 
wanted to and it is a little Eden. I wonder if this is where 
you stopped — it is a nobleman's estate changed into a hotel, 
but is badly misnamed. It is narrow and long with doors 
opening to the lawn, and such a lawn and trees, rhododendrons, 
in full bloom! The back of the house is covered with a mag- 
nolia, with glossy pointed leaves, with wistaria and Banksia 
rose vine, which has clusters of tiny yellow roses. 

After dinner, beautifully served at small tables, we went 
into the hall room where there was a coal fire, as it is cold and 

359 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

looks as if it were in for a rainy day. I will let you know 
what we do in London. With love to all and hoping to hear 
from you soon. 

Affly, yours M. D. R. 

Grand Hotel, Lyndhurst, New Forest. 
Saturday, May 26th, 1900. 
Dear Fanny and All, 

Here we are still, having come from Southampton for a 
rest and a fine resting place it is, but oh! so cold! I wear 




GRAND HOTEL, LYNDHURST, NEW FOREST 

the thickest Winter clothing and sleep under layers of heavy 
blankets. 

Mary is in fine shape, Cliff too, Sam better, but not yet 
himself. Cliff went to London this morning to arrange our 
lodgings, get the trunks, etc., and we go tomorrow to Win- 
chester to service at the Cathedral and a drive around in the 
afternoon and reach London in time for dinner. .: 

360 



ENGLAND 




BEAULIEU ABBEY 




WHERE WILLIAM RUFUS FELL, NEW FOREST 
361 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We have some nice Americans here. 

We drove through the Forest yesterday to "Bewley" — 
Beau Lieu by rights — saw the home of Lord Montague. 
In the afternoon to Stony Cross, saw Sir Wm. Harcourt's 
house and the big oaks, took tea at a Forester's Lodge and 
got back to a good dinner. 

What a contrast it all is to things American. Here the 

birds are endless, the flowers fascinating, hawthorne, gorse, 

roses, wistaria and the rhododendron in great profusion. Mary 

is more enthusiastic about travel than ever and beams upon 

us all. 

Affectionately Frank. 



FRANCE 

Hotel Columbia, Paris, 
June 7th, 1900. 
Dear Laura, 

Frank and I left London last Friday in a terrible North 
Easter, and had a daisy time crossing from Dover to Calais. 
I think it was the wettest day I ever saw and we were much 
more exposed to the rain than I expected. We found the 
boat French and different, and were lucky to get a cabin 
costing seven dollars and a half for the hour and twenty min- 
utes, but it was worth it to keep our baggage dry and we had 
comfortable sofas. 

I lay flat on my back and when I thought I couldn't stand 
it any longer got up and tried but was not able to do much 
and in consequence have been upset ever since, until now. I 
begin to think I am a good sailor, as the waves poured over 
the deck and the motion was terrible and I could hear people 
sick all around us. 

We got here and found nice rooms and comfortable beds 
and a good dinner. The Hotel is small and we have one side 
of this floor with bath, practically to ourselves. We have our 
trunks in the passage way between the front and back rooms 
and have plenty of room for our things. It was a great change 
from London and I had to put on my summer things, the sun 
shone so hot. We went to church in the Avenue de l'Alma Sunday 

363 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

morning and met Dr. K, who walked back with us and took 
us in en route to the new Hotel du Palais on the Champs 
Elysees. 

Monday morning we got up at 5.30 and went to the Gare 
d'Orleans a three quarter hour ride and took the train to 
Vendome, a ride of 5 hours and found the place all decorated 




GENERAL HORACE PORTER 

Then U. S. Ambassador to Prance 

and went (after lunch at the dirtiest hotel I ever saw) to see 
the statue of Rochambeau unveiled. We were conducted by 
some of the town notables to the Estrade and there saw the 
Marquise who made us sit on the front row beside her. On 
the opposite side were Horace Porter, our Minister, and Count 
Rochambeau and a distinguished Admiral of the French Navy 
and some Generals, &c. 

^64 



FRANCE 

There were military bands and choirs of singers from Paris 
and decorations galore. Gen'l. Porter had come down the 
night before and stayed at the Chateau and had taken part 




REPLICA AT WASHINGTON, D. C, OF THE MONUMENT OF ROCHAMBEAU AT 

VENDOME 

in a mass celebrated in the Cathedral during the morning. 
He and his secretary and the father-in-law of the Marquise 
took up the available bed rooms there. They begged us to 

365 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

come after the ceremony of unveiling to the Chateau, where a 
lunch was to be served,— flowers put on the tomb of the 
Marquis I knew, &c, but we knew it would be impossible for 
us to stay in that hotel over night, so there was nothing to 
do but to come back. 

Some Americans went down in the train with us but of 
course didn't know who we were, — a Col. Huntington, and 
Col. Chaille Long, &c, who were most polite after they found 
out who we were and saw us sitting with the Marquise. I 
was disappointed to give up going to the Chateau, but between 
the heat and fatigue had to let it go. 

Last evening (Wednesday) the boys arrived from London. 
They both like the hotel, are satisfied with the situation and 
the food is excellent. I went to the Louvre store day before 
yesterday as I needed some gloves and I got slippers (felt) 
like mine and yours for Frank and Cliff and a parasol. 

In the evening Frank and Sam and I walked around in 
the neighborhood. Guzman-Bianco lives on the opposite cor- 
ner and we saw the magnificent dining room with carved 
wood panels. Queen Isabella's palace is on the other corner. 
The Infanta Eulalia is there at present and is getting 
divorced. This morning I went with Frank and Sam to 
where he has his baths and then to the Exposition and went 
all through the Petit Palais des Beaux Arts, came back in an 
omnibus to the Arc de Triomphe and walked down here. I 
shall go this p. m. either to order some things or with Sam, 
if he will take a chair and ride awhile in the exhibition. 

Everything is hard work here, the crowds are so great 
and the streets almost impossible. The coachmen don't want 
to go by the hour and the omnibuses are always full. 

Love to all, Affly, M. D. R. 



FRANCE 

Hotel Columbia, Paris, 

June 22nd, 1900. 
Dear Laura, 

It seems almost impossible to get time to write here and 
now that the time is getting short I want to be out all the 
time. We have had a delightful week. I don't know whether 
I wrote you that I had written to Mrs. Hazard (Addie Eads) 
to let her know that I was here. She responded immediately 
and has been just as kind as possible ever since. The first 
day she took me out to do some errands and then we drove 





'"■ ■ 




CHANTILLY 



through the Bois all the way to Sevres and went through the 
Factory and then came back to the Cafe d'Armenonville and 
had a delicious breakfast in a most beautiful spot. 

The climate is so heavenly here, there is always just enough 
cool breeze to prevent suffering with the heat. Since then she 
has been out with me a whole day looking at tapestries, lace 
shades and bedspreads, table cloths, &c. Her apartment 
is furnished magnificently in the French style — she is at 

367 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

home Sunday afternoons this month. Frank and Cliff went 
there last Sunday at six, after we got back from Chantilly, 
but I was so tired I could not do anything. , ! 

I find I cannot write in the evenings because I am so tired. 

Over a week ago we paid all our calls. Walter Douglas' 
sister introduced us to a Miss Unger, who is studying art 
here and she took us to Julian's studio, where I saw a life 








EXPOSITION, PARIS, 1900 



class all women and a man model, and it didn't shock me at 
all, and she also gave us a great treat by taking us to see 
Gerome and Bouguereau, the two painters Frank has always 
admired the most. Gerome's studio was very fine and filled 
with beautiful things, and he was the grandest man I ever 
saw. He now spends more time modeling statues than in 
painting, but everything he does is wonderful. We also saw 
his whole house and Bouguereau's also, which has a beautiful 

garden. 

368 



FRANCE 

We had these girls to dinner afterwards and then all went 
to the Exposition and saw the Theatre des Danses (dances 
of all nations) in the Rue de Paris, and then sat out on a 
Terrace over the river at one of the Cafes. The Cafes are 
down under the different Pavilions, close to the river on 
both sides. Last night Cliff and I went to see Sarah Bern- 
hardt in L'Aiglon by Rostand, the story of the Due de Reich- 
stadt, son of the first Napoleon. 

We all, with Mrs. H, are going to the Exhibition to-night 
to see "Andalusia in the Time of the Moors." At the Spanish 
cafe under the Spanish Pavillion on the Rue des Nations the 
other side of the river, they have dancing and orchestra 
during dinner and all evening, also at the Russian, German 
and Swedish cafes, and these are packed full every night 
besides every restaurant in the city and in the Bois and at 
all the Hotels. Before the Grand Prix it was necessary to 
engage a table at the German restaurant three weeks ahead. 

I don't find the gloves at 5 francs here much better than 
the gloves at home. Of course you see pretty things but they 
are all very dear. 

Affly., M. D. R. 

We do not yet know where we go from here, but Sam will 
visit St. Moritz. 

Hotel Columbia, Paris, 

July 1st, 1900. 
Dear Fanny, 

I have wanted to write, but you cannot know what it is 
to have the care of three men, who don't know how to care 
for themselves without a maid or valet, and try to see an 
Exhibition and see visitors and do Paris at the same time. 

I have been very well and have to-day only a little sick 
headache, which I know perfectly well I can attribute to 
indulging in afternoon tea and chocolate and good things 
generally at the Exhibition afternoons. It is astonishing to 
see every cafe and tea place filled to overflowing with people 
taking tea. 

24 369 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

I know Frank has told you a great deal about the Exposi- 
tion as to exterior and exhibits. I find one of the greatest 
attractions is to loaf about and sit down and watch the people 
and take tea at Ceylon or at the English cafe or lunch at the 
German restaurant (the fashionable thing to do), or take 
coffee or an ice at the Spanish restaurant, where there is a 
stage and Spanish dancers and singing afternoon and evening, 
or to spend an evening in "Andalusia in the Time of the 



i 

f 



RUE DES NATIONS, PARIS EXPOSITION, 1900 

Moors," and see real Spanish dances of the people, on one 
side, and on the other tournaments and tilts between Moors 
and Spaniards on horses and camels. 

Another delightful afternoon was spent in the Swiss 
village, which is , a most wonderful illusion, with real rocks, 
mountain high and green grass, and valleys and shepherdess 
huts way up on the hills and waterfalls and old houses and 
chalets reproduced, shops, cafes, stables with real cows and 
milk to sell, and a little church. 

After an hour or two of hard work in the art galleries or 

370 



FRANCE 

exhibits, such a scene is very restful and one carries away a 
pleasant impression. The river runs between the Rue des 
Nations on one side with the foreign pavilions, and the Rue 
de Paris on the other. The latter is lined with theatres and 
restaurants and is very fashionable at night. The foreign 
pavilions have their restaurants underneath and all have 
music, so it is very gay at lunch time and dinner time. 

Another experience was sitting in the Trans-Siberian train 
de luxe and having lunch in the dining car, while travelling 
from Moscow to Pekin; the illusion is perfect; the scenery 
moves while the train is stationary. All is very elegant and 
you come out into the Chinese pavilion and restaurant 
where there are Chinese servants with long pig tails and 
queer hats and always the same gayety. 

Miss Douglas is very nice and she introduced us to a Miss 
Unger, an art student here, who has taken us to Gerome's, 
Bougereau's and Jan Van Beers' studios and also Julian's. 
This was a great treat and the houses also superb. Gerome 
is magnificent and his work the same. Van Beers' house 
something wonderful but Monte Cristo like. I have never 
dreamed of such houses as I have seen here. 

At last we have decided on our future movements. We 
all leave here Thursday, July 5th, Frank and Sam go to Basle 
and spend the night, then on to Lucerne and in a day or two 
across the lake to Burgenstock and spend a week at the big 
Hotel half way up the mountain to get accustomed to the 
high air. Then they go to Lugano, Chiavenna and over the 
Maloja Pass to St. Moritz. Cliff and I go to Hombourg for 
my three weeks' cure, as I need it very much. I prefer going 
with the others but think it best to go to Hombourg. 

Amy. yours, M. D. R. 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

Royal Victoria Hotel, Bad-Hombourg. 

July 7th, 1900. 
Dear Laura, 

Of course you know how hard it was at Paris to get a 
chance to write, with going to the Exhibition and out to all 
sorts of things. At the 4th of July reception at Mr. Porter's, 
the American Ambassador, Frank met the Christophersons 
(who were married in Philadelphia during the Centennial), 
and they were most cordial, and she said if she had only 
known we were in Paris she could have done a great deal 
for us. 

Frank and Sam left Paris Thursday morning, July 5th, 
for Basle and Lucerne and are to spend a week at Burgen- 
stock, a high place across the lake from Lucerne, preparatory 
to going to St. Moritz. Cliff and I took the night train the 
same night to Frankfort, by way of Metz and Mayence, and 
got here by one o'clock the next day. We found two nice 
single rooms awaiting us and if it would only get warm it 
would be perfect, for the Hotel is beautifully kept and has 
been all fixed up inside and everything is immaculately clean. 

How I wish we could have this Hotel at Bedford, but I 
must say the water tastes a great deal better here than the 
Bedford water, but I miss the fires. It is as cold as winter 
here and I am only comfortable in my fur cloak. There are 

372 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

very few people here yet and the Paris fair may interfere with 
all these baths. 

It was hard work to get up this morning with the ther- 
mometer at 50 degrees or lower and go out to drink 3 glasses 
of cold water before breakfast. I am not to begin the baths 
for several days. 

Grand Hotel Splendide, Lugano. 
Wed., July nth, 1900. 
Dear Fanny and Joe, 

Many thanks for yours of the 29th of June, which found 
us at Lucerne this morning before we left at 9.08 to cross the 
Gothard, and we arrived here at 1.24 to find heat like we have 




GRAND HOTEL, LAKE LUGANO 

at home and a great contrast to the nasty damp cold rainy 
days in Lucerne. We spend the night here and go to Menaggio 
and Chiavenna tomorrow and leave Chiavenna at 7 a. m. 
on Friday for St. Moritz. We meet no home faces and make 
no acquaintances, so we have to rely on each other for company. 

373 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

If St. Moritz benefits Sam we are likely to remain there 
till about the 5th of August and go thence to Sigmaringen 
for a visit, back to Paris and I do hope to sail on the 25th of 
August. Mary seems never to tire of it over here and she 
and Cliff are in Hombourg, having chilly weather and I 
fancy meeting few people but taking the "Kur" and imagin- 
ing she is doing good for herself. 

This is a most picturesque place and so neat and clean, 
but deserted. I fancy we are the only guests in this big house 
and we are seated in a big room trying to keep cool and await- 
ing five o'clock when we go aboard a steamboat for a tour 
around the Lake. 

You seem to have had torrid weather in America and a 
good spell of it, while we have had thick winter clothing on 
and been glad to hug up to the fire. 

We had to give up Burgenstock, the place looked so for- 
lorn and damp and cold and inaccessible, and I hope the 
change to St. Moritz will not be too sudden. I fancy the 
weather will be more seasonable from now on. Everyone 
talks Italian here and a few hours ago it was all German 
and yet all pride themselves on being Swiss. 

Sam joins me in love to you and all. 

Affy. Frank. 

Royal Victoria Hotel, Bad-Hombourg, 

Sunday, July 22nd, 1900. 
Dear Laura and Maria, 

I write to you both together because I don't want to put 
off writing to another day. Since I wrote you last (when we 
were freezing in a cold rain) we have had the most intense 
heat I ever felt, and it has been a struggle to get up at all 
in the morning and get down to my bath. On returning I 
was fairly swimming in perspiration. No doubt it is very 
good for one. 

Altho we are quite alone I love this place and the restful 
quiet of it. I was never made to stay in cities in hot weather. 

374 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

There are two old ladies from Boston in this Hotel that 
Gen. Warren introduced to us by the name of Walker — have 
been identified with Harvard, through father or brother, and 
are delightful people. 

Raban came over from Wiesbaden last Sunday, and we 
took the trolley to the Saalburg, had coffee and came home to 
late dinner. This Sunday morning he came partly on his 
bicycle and partly by train to spend the day and it is just 
beginning to rain, so I suppose he will have to go back by 
train. His sister Mechtilde is visiting near Bonn on the 




KOENIGSTEIN 



Rhine and we have just come to the conclusion that we will 
go direct to Sigmaringen from here and take her home with us 
and perhaps go after a visit of 4 days to meet Frank and Sam, 
returning to Hohenstadt for the silver wedding on the 17th. 
Clifford and I made a beautiful excursion after lunch on 
Wednesday. Taking a two-horse carriage we drove through 
the pine woods, up and down hill to Koenigstein, where there 
is a magnificent ruin, on a very high point above the town 
and which I climbed up to. It was a royal residence and 
fortress destroyed by the French in 1796. Then we took 
coffee in the town and came back by the village of Cronberg, 

375 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

a quaint place with frescoed houses and doll-house windows. 
Those old villages have very steep roofs, covered with red 
tiles, and nothing could be more beautiful than the view from 
a high point over the dull red tiled roofs, nestled among the 
green trees. Nearby is the Empress Frederick's new castle, 
which we passed on our return home. 

It has been too hot to make any excursions since, so we 
have simply gone up in the trolley to the Saalburg and sat 
there until well cooled off and then back again. There are 
lots of pretty things here to buy, but such prices, everything 
is so dear. M. D. R. 

Palace Hotel, St. Moritz, 
July 23 rd, 1900, Monday. 
Dear Fanny and Joe, 

Your most welcome lines of the nth came this morning 
and were eagerly perused. You cannot tell how grateful we 
are for your thought of us. Our present plan now is to leave 
here on Thursday for Zurich and try to meet Cliff and Mary 
somewhere, arrange our plans for the visit to the Adelmanns 
and for the remaining weeks I have on this side Mary proposes 
a few days in Sigmaringen and to make a trip somewhere and 
be in Hohenstadt (Adelmann's Castle in Wurtemburg) for 
the Silver Wedding about the 18th of August. 

She finds the heat in Hombourg hardly bearable, but 
declares she has enjoyed herself there. So you see trying to 
arrange plans to be with Emma and party and with Mary 
and Cliff and then to try to do the best for Sam has set us all 
at diagonal points and I endeavor all the time to know what 
to do to accomplish all. I have written Mary Sam and I 
expect to leave on Thursday for Thusis and Zurich, remain 
there anyhow till Monday, the 31st, and then! alas I have 
no plans. 

The F. W. Vanderbilts and Twombley have been in this 
house four days. Sam cannot walk much and will not drive, 
and each afternoon is showery and we are housebound, so the 
search for health and strength for him is not a grand success. 

376 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

The anxiety about affairs in China does not make any one 
cheerful over here and we dread the future, for no one knows 
what may come of all the horrible fighting and the political 
events so near the bursting point. Europe cannot stand much 
more without a rupture and the United States is just as 




PALACE HOTEL, ST. MORITZ 

likely to be embroiled as the other countries. The uncer- 
tainty of the future makes me want to be home. I cannot 
enjoy pleasuring with the thought of such anxieties everywhere 
and if nothing prevents I shall sail as anticipated on the 25th. 
So wishing you both pleasurable experiences in New England 
and with love from all. Affy. Frank. 

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg, 

July 27th, 1900. 
Dear Fanny, 

The heat has been intense here and with the taking of the 
waters I have been almost incapacitated. It is very weakening 
at the time and I am just getting over a two-day sick headache. 

377 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

I could hardly keep up the necessary correspondence with 
Frank and the temporary voluminous one with the Adel- 
manns as I take the afternoons for a little rest, and then out 
again either for a walk or up to the Saalburg in the trolley. 

The Emperor is too much like an American for anything. 
He is just hustling things. He has built this trolley and is 
building up the Roman Camp on the foundation walls to be 
just as it was in Roman times. He already has a sort of 
drawbridge at the main gateway and serrated walls along the 
front and a piece of thorn-wood patch such as is described 
in Julius Caesar and the restaurant is called Dornholzhause. 

I have been to several places I did not go before, walks 
through the Hardtwood, the other side of the town and to the 
French village Friedrichs-dorf. One afternoon we took a 
delightful drive to Koenigstein and climbed up to the ruins, 
which are magnificent and back through the village of Kron- 
berg and round by the Empress Frederick's castle. 

On the Sunday Raban Adelmann came over from Wies- 
baden on his bicycle and went back by train and on Monday 
Clifford rode it back over the Koenigstein road and had a 
delightful ride, stayed until Wednesday noon. He has gone 
to Frankfort to meet Mechtilde Adelmann, who will stay here 
until Monday with us when we all go to Sigmaringen, getting 
there Monday evening. 

We have the new Gov. General of Australia here — looks 
like a boy; Earl of Hopetown. I must stop, so good bye. 

Aff. yours, M. D. R. 

I will keep you posted as to all our movements. Am 
sorry I have no more news to tell you, but our life here is 
most quiet. 

I hope you are enjoying the cottage and have good food. 
With much love to all, and hoping for a letter soon from 
Jamestown. 

Affly, M. D. R. 



378 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

Sigmaringen, Aug. 3rd, 1900. 
Dear Laura, 

I sent Laura postal cards to-day because beautifully 
painted. She must keep them as it is quite the thing to collect 
them. We had quite a gay time the last few days of our 
stay at Hombourg. First Emma and family arrived and 
after we had been so very much alone it was very nice to 
have them to talk to. Then Mechtilde Adelmann, who had 
been visiting on the Rhine, came to us Friday 27th and 
stayed with us until we came here on Monday. Sigmund 
brought her and as he had to go back to Wiesbaden that 
evening and Sousa's band was to play that evening at a big 
garden in Frankfort, we all, Sinnicksons, &c, went in and 
came out on a late train. 

Raban and Sigmund both came over from Wiesbaden 
Sunday for the day and I had the girls for lunch and Emma 
had us all for dinner. The table was beautifully decorated 
with roses and altogether very fine. We left early Monday 
morning and had lunch at Stuttgart and came on here at 
eight o'clock. 

We are enjoying every minute of it, going about in this 
glorious climate. Frank and Sam arrived an hour ahead of 
us, so we are all here together. Clifford and Mechtilde and a 
friend have gone off on their bicycles to a neighboring village 
to fish for trout, where he got a permission and the trout are 
plentiful. Unfortunately the Prince and Court are in 
deepest mourning for the Dowager Princess of Hohenzollern 
and now they have gone to the funeral of the Duke of Coburg, 
who is Victoria's son, and was formerly Duke of Edinburg, 
and married the Czar's sister. Their daughter is the wife of 
the Crown Prince of Roumania and has been entertained by the 
Adelmanns in this house.* I think this is as beautiful country 
as I ever saw and the climate is perfect, almost 2,000 ft. above 
the sea. We suffered terribly with the heat at Hombourg, the 
worst ever known there. 

*Now (1916) the Queen of Roumania and alas! her distress great, owing to the dread- 
ful War. 

379 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Frank and Sam are quite decided to sail on the 25th of 
this month and I shall have to give up my southern trip, 
so probably Clifford and I will return late in October. We 
go away Monday for a little trip around Innsbruck to give 
the Adelmanns a chance to move to Hohenstadt and then we 
meet on the 17th for the silver wedding, 19th, and the boys 
come from Wiesbaden for their vacation and we expect to 
stay there for at least ten days. Frank will leave 21st and 
Sam may not go there at all but go to the Touraine instead 
and meet his father at Cherbourg for the ship. Emma and 
little Fanny have gone on to Oberammergau and the girls 
have stayed in Hombourg. 

Isn't it terrible about the King of Italy?* We are anxious 
for news from China but don't get much. I must go to dinner, 
so good bye, with love to all, 

Aff'ly, M. D. R. 

Flotel Tirol, 
Innsbruck, nth Aug., 1900. 
Dear Sam, 

Many thanks for your two postal cards of Thursday 
which came just now telling of your journey to Paris and meet- 
ing Cliff, and of your arrangement for rooms at the Hotel 
Columbia. I am glad to know of this and will come direct to 
that Hotel from the Station. I do hope you will have a most 
enjoyable time in the Touraine and be able to present the 
letters so you will have some acquaintances to keep you 
company and pick out little excursions. 

If you can, hunt up Mrs. Charlemagne Tower at Tours 
where she is spending the summer with her family. All you 
have to do is to leave your card and address and I am sure 
she will be happy to see you as she and her husband are 
always most friendly to us and are very nice. 

Here we are having a cold rain this morning and are con- 
sequently housebound, but this is a nice hotel, very cleanly 

*The King of Italy had just been assassinated. 

380 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

and good food and with Aunt Emma and Fanny for company 
we get along nicely and will not leave till Monday. 

We start Monday on our return northward through the 
Austrian and Bavarian Tyrol to the wonderful castle of the 
crazy King of Bavaria and then turn westward to Bregenz and 
Lindau and on to Ulm and Hohenstadt. On Monday we 
have a two-hours' ride by rail to Imst and thence to Fiissen, 
a ten-hours drive to take all day. It is said to be very beau- 




TEGERN SEE, TYROL 

tiful and I hope will be a success, altho the weather is fitful 
these days and we may be caught by rain. Innsbruck is 
certainly very beautiful and surrounded entirely by snow 
capped mountains. Yesterday afternoon we took a beautiful 
drive to a very old Castle, Ambass, near here, owned by the 
Emperor of Austria and your Mother was greatly pleased 
with the old furniture and paintings and a fine display of 
armor. 

They have a funny currency here, Guldens worth 40 
cents are the units divided into a hundred Kreutzers and 

381 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 




AUSTRIAN "JAGER" REGIMENT IN THE FERN PASS 




CASTLE AMBASS, INNSBRUCK 
382 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

now they have Kroners about }4 a Gulden, divided into 
Hellers, ioo Hellers make I Kroner and two Hellers make 
one Kreutzer. This involves a calculation at every trans- 
action that resembles very much the Jew's who said the man 
wanted $10 for his coat, would take #8 but would sell at $6 
and it cost him $4 and the buyer would give $2. So every 
time I buy a cigar it takes a lot of Japanese figuring to pay 
for it and I pull out my "chicken feed" coins and find I have 
to double the Hellers to make Kreutzers! Such is life! I 
shall be glad to get back to a country where we will have 
dollars and cents, or more properly dollars and lots of sense. 
So good bye, old boy, write me fully care Morgan Harjes 
& Co., and enjoy yourself and grow strong and well. Your 
Mother joins me in aifectionate greetings and love to you. 

Affectionately, F. H. R. 

Lermoos, Tirol, Aug. 13th, 1900. 
Dear Fanny, 

I have thought all day of how you would enjoy this drive 
on this most perfect day. We were with Emma three days 
at Innsbruck and yesterday took the small train to Hall and 
walked all over it. To-day we left Innsbruck at 8 a. m. and 
came to Imst by train and then took Extra Post to Nassareit 
and then changed and had a real postilion and came over the 
magnificent Fern Pass in an ideal atmosphere. We are going to 
Oberammergau, but will spend to-morrow at Hohenschwangau. 

We start this minute for Oberammergau, will stay over 
Wednesday and come back here and use our tickets by Lindau. 
We are very tired and must get up two mornings at 5 o'clock, 
then on to the wedding. Love to all, 

AfF'ly, M. D. R. 

Hohenstadt, Aug. 20th, 1900. 
Dear Sam, 

Your Father is just going and I send this by him to say we 
have enjoyed your nice letters from Blois and hope the stay 
there has done you good. The silver wedding was the greatest 

383 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 




THE FERN PASS, TYROL 




BANQUET TABLE, SILVER WEDDING, HOHENSTADT 
384 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

success you can imagine and we only went to bed at one 
o'clock beginning with a six o'clock dinner. The men of the 
family all wore orders and the oldest was a general in full 
uniform. There were 95 telegrams so far and five of them 
were from different royalties. Your Father will tell you all 
about it — it was much more delightful than we expected it 
to be. Do write often and let me know how you are all the 
time, as I shall be very anxious. 




HOTEL, TEGERN SEE, TYROL 



We had a most delightful trip of twelve days in the Tyrol 
and travelled very hard, and as I had all the packing and 
planning to do did not get much time to write. The first 
day from Munich we were in 9 different conveyances and 
arrived at Tegern-See at seven o'clock to find not a bed in the 
village, but I told the woman we were going to stay just the 
same and she finally found a single room, so after that, we 
took the trouble to telegraph ahead. 

We were three days in Innsbruck in a most comfortable' 
Hotel and enjoyed being with your Aunt Emma and Fanny 
25 385 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and Mrs. Robinson, and her boys and met some nice young 
Englishmen. Then we had a beautiful drive over the Fern 
Pass to Fussen and the Castles of King Ludwig and then to 
Lindau and then here. Take good care of yourself on the 
ship. I hope it will be warm and now with a kiss for good 
bye and with much love, 

Your affectionate Mother, M. D. R. 

Hohenstadt, 
Aug. 2 1 st, 1900. 
Dear Frank, 

We received your postal this morning saying you were 
unable to get a berth on the Oriental Express. Count A. 
says he secured it two weeks ago and cannot understand 
why you should not have had it. We were very anxious 
when the terrible hail storm began for fear you would be 
soaked as it would have been impossible for three of you to 
be protected in that carriage from the storm, but the coach- 
man said you got to the station all right. 

This morning before I could get dressed I heard the 
soldiers coming and looking out saw all sorts of horses, wagons, 
&c, officers and soldiers and sure enough they arrived in time 
to want an early breakfast and now at one o'clock they will 
have another and dinner to-night in the hall. It is still hot 
and looks like another storm late in the day. 

We miss you terribly and I feel badly to have you go 
away. I don't see why you and Sam cannot be content to 
settle down somewhere here and where the climate and food 
are good. Do write often and keep me posted about Sam and 
with much love from us all, Your aff, M. D. R. 

Hohenstadt, 7 o'clock, 

Aug. 22nd, 1900. 
Dear Frank and Sam, 

We have been in a perfect whirl with the soldiers and 
officers and I cannot get a moment. They came early yester- 
day morning and we had early lunch and late dinner. They 

386 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

are Uhlans and the highest officer is Major Frank and then 
Baron von Gemmingen, a sort of cousin of Countess Adel- 
mann, and then the young officers were a Count Szeil, whose 
father is a Prince and his cousin young Baron Ensberg, whose 
castle we saw not far from Sigmaringen. 

Last night we had a big dinner in the Hall and General 
von Camerer drank to your health. In the afternoon we went 
out to see them inspect the horses but it was not very much. 




THE BRIDAL COUPLE IN THE GARDEN, HOHENSTADT 

We all sat up very late and the General and I make as much 
fun as possible where neither can speak the other's language. 
To-day they had a grand dinner at 8 o'clock with fish and 
ice cream and champagne and the regimental band had as- 
sembled from all round the country and while we were eating 
they stood in the churchyard, where the fire works were and 
played beautifully. The programs were written out and put 
on the table. After dinner they played the Washington Post 
for Cliff and myself and I sent them down red, white and 

387 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

blue China Asters tied with some red, white and blue ribbon 
and the leader pinned them on his shoulder and saluted and 
I had to bow at the window. All these fine uniforms make 
it seem very stately and fine. 

We spent -the afternoon in the garden, the young officers 
and the boys played croquet and all drank beer and now 
they are ready for another meal. It is nothing but eat and 
drink all day long. There were twenty at table to-day. 

Countess Adelmann sends her regards and regrets that 
you could not have stayed to see the officers. The General 
has been threatening to serenade me and this morning he 
sent the chief trumpeter and stood him in the Hall in front 
of my door and played the reveille. You can imagine the 
noise. I do hope Sam is feeling better and I am so sorry he 
went into such a hot climate. I hope to get a letter from you, 
as none came to-day. I wonder if you go Friday afternoon 
or Saturday morning to Cherbourg. Hoping you are both 
Well, with much love, 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

Hohenstadt, 

Thursday noon, Aug. 23rd, 1900. 
Dear Frank and Sam, 

The Uhlans were magnificent on horseback. We got up 
early to see them off, as they got up a special parade for me 
and the trumpeters played on horseback in front of our 
windows and we watched them all wind away down hill. 
They looked taller and more imposing than our cavalry, 
with their lances upright and it was a magnificent sight. 

I fear it is too late to send this letter to Paris and you 
don't name your Hotel at Cherbourg so we can only send to 
the ship and hope you will get it. Your two letters came to-day, 
Thursday, at ten o'clock, so I will telegraph to Hotel Columbia 
to-day. I also miss you very much and am only diverted a 
little by all this excitement. With best love and hopes for a 
s«afe voyage. Your aff, M. D. R. 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

Dear Father, 

The Uhlans left here this morning and we got up to see 
them off. At ten a. m. we went to see a little play at the 
kindergarten and it was really very good. The story was 
taken from Hansel and Gretel. This afternoon, we drive and 
"bike" to Fachsenfeld. At this time of year you should 
meet pleasanter people on the St. Paul than we did coming 
over. Well with best wishes for clear weather, smooth seas 
and a pleasant company, 

Clifford. 

Hohenstadt, Aug. 24th, 1900. 
Dear Laura, 

I am quite crazy when I remember that I haven't written 
to you since Innsbruck and how things have accumulated 
since then! We left Innsbruck Monday morning, Aug. 13th 
in the train as far as Imst, where we found a carriage waiting 
for us. We lost no time getting off as it was a long way to 
Hohenschwangau. Our way lay through several villages 
filled with Austrian soldiers who were most picturesque as 
we saw them around the village fountains and across the 
celebrated Fern Pass, the most beautiful of all the Passes. 
We were very fortunate in having the most glorious weather 
possible and the high mountains with bare rock summits, a 
pale pink color, towering above our heads and contrasting 
with the green forests below, were something wonderful. 

We enjoyed lunching at a little village on the Austrian 
frontier and took tea at Lermoos and then on to Reutle and 
Fiissen. At Fiissen the railroad comes in but we went on to 
the Alpen Rosen at Hohenschwangau, getting there in time 
for a table d'hote supper. We were glad to get a room as 
the whole country is swarming with tourists going to and 
coming from Oberammergau, and who take in the Royal 
Castles at the same time. 

That night our decision not to go to Oberammergau began 
to waver and we concluded that when we were so near people 

389 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

would think us fools not to go so we told the porter to tele- 
graph if we could get a room and seats in the Theatre and we 
would decide in the morning. I found my bed wet and cold 
and had a real shaking chill and got up and put on some 
things and my fur lined circular on top and took brandy and 
finally got warm. In the morning I found myself all right 
again. The porter had secured accommodations for us so it 
was decided we should drive from there in the afternoon. 




SCHLOSS HOHENSCHWANGAU 

So the morning was given up to the Castle of Neuschwan- 
stein, built by King Ludwig on the foundations of an old 
castle in the most romantic location, on top of a high crag 
with great rocky gorges all around it and higher mountains 
with cataracts of water dashing down into the gorges. It is 
built all of white stone and is dazzling to look at — is modeled 
somewhat after the Wartburg at Eisenach. The great hall 
of the Troubadours has a stage at one end and here Ludwig 
used to have the Wagner Opera given for himself alone. 

390 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

Magnificent scarcely expresses the costliness of all the deco- 
rations. One room was all of foliage in wood carving, gilded, 
coming way out from the corners and spreading over the 
ceiling. The frescoes were all of subjects from the Parsifal, 
of Wolfram von Eschingen and the Niebelungen and Loheri- 




NEUSCHWANSTEIN 
Castle of the King of Bavaria 

grin, as this is the country associated with the Swan legend 
and everywhere through the castle the swan was in every- 
thing, blue and white leather cushions with swan design, 
embroidered on the curtains. 

In the dining room the centre piece for flowers was a great 
white swan. On some of the balconies you could imagine 

391 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Elsa just as in the Opera. The other castle Hohenschwangau, 
"High swan place" happened to be occupied by one of the 
royal family and so could not be seen, so we ate our lunch 
and started off for Oberammergau by the shortest road, with 




GORGEOUS ROOM IN NEUSCHWANSTEIN 



all our luggage behind us, as we were to come back to Fiissen 

to take the train after the Passion Play. 

A delightful drive through pine forests and a long pull up 

the valley and we arrived at Oberammergau and had to let 

the horses walk through the village so great was the crowd of 

people. Young Ben Reath rushed up to us to know if Clifford 

392 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

was there, otherwise we saw no one we knew, but at the 
Hotel, which was across the little river and not in the main 
street, we found two men who had been in the same Hotel 
in Munich. 

We got our supper quickly and hearing cannons going 
off and music rushed back to the village. There every one 
was out and the village band was playing, the balconies and 
even the streets close by the houses were filled with people 
eating and others were in the shops. I saw such beautiful 
things but unfortunately as the light was poor decided to 
wait until the next day, thinking that I would get time to 
look at things in the daylight, and as it rained terribly I 
never got a chance to see anything. 

We had a very nice room and good food at our Hotel and 
had a good night's rest. We had to get up at 6.30 to dress and 
breakfast and get to the Theatre by 8 o'clock. It was a 
curious sight to see the throngs of people all converging 
towards that one spot and filling the many entrances. I 
found the two Sands were next to me and some very aristo- 
cratic looking Germans, also a gay widow who came over on 
the ship with us. 

The play is opened by the Chorus, like in the old Greek 
plays, who explain the following scene and the tableaux. 
Then comes a tableau from the Old Testament, then a scene 
of the play. The Chorus became a little tiresome after 8 
hours, but the tableaux were wonderful, the throngs of people 
and the different colors of the costumes and the gorgeous 
ones of the High Priests of the Sanhedrim and of the Roman 
Pilate and soldiers and the streets of Jerusalem, made a never- 
to-be-forgotten scene. 

The entrance of Christ on the Ass, with the people acclaim- 
ing and waving palms, was very impressive. After the first 
hour I began to feel very ill (the result of my chill) and 
concluded to go out. I told Frank not to follow and I managed 
to get an "einspanner" and get back to the Hotel, where I 
lay down and got warm and dry and got relief from pain. 

393 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

In the afternoon the play began at 1.30 and I went, after 
a good dose of medicine, and sat it through all right but I 
had to ride both ways as everything was soaked with rain 
and afloat. 

It was all a wonderful picture and most impressive, 
especially the crucifixion. The Christus was like the best 
pictures, but of course one couldn't expect the expression in 
the face. He was very sad and pensive and the bearing of 
the cross and the tormenting and scourging by the Roman 
soldier was terrible. He was hanging on the cross eighteen 
minutes. It looked exactly as if the nails went through the 
hands and feet and there was no visible support. When 
they forced the crown of thorns down on his head and the 
blood trickled down it was terrible. Then when he died on 
the cross and everything became dark and there was terrific 
thunder, it was wonderful, right out of doors as it was. 

We have brought books and pictures to show something 
of it all. It was still raining the next morning when we left 
at a quarter before six in our same carriage to drive back 
over the same way to Fiissen. We had an hour to spare and 
visited the fine old castle, where the Archbishops of Augs- 
burg used to live, and is now used by the Government for 
offices. It is a magnificent old castle on a hill and below it 
on the river an old straggling monastery in a corner of which 
are still left some portions of the old city wall and a tower. 

From the train after leaving Fiissen we had our most 
impressive view of Neusehwanstein, it seeming much longer 
and more spread out than from the other positions we had 
seen it. 

We arrived at Lindau on the Boden-See to find a lovely 
Hotel on the lake, with a balcony out of our room overlooking 
the Harbor and we dined delightfully on the veranda and 
watched the crowds of people off and on the boats going to 
Bregenz, Constance, and dozens of places. It was a great 
change from the primitiveness of our last few days. 

The next morning we went by boat to Friedrichshafen 

394 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

and dined and drove about and then came by fast train here 
via Ulm. We drove up here in an hour and a half and found 
the other guests arriving and Clifford here. 

They had two suppers that night, each of not less than 
ten or a dozen people. I am so tired that I will send this off 
and write the description of Saturday and the Silver Wedding 
on Sunday, 19th, another time. Frank left Monday after- 
noon and met Sam in Paris, Tuesday, and is to-day travelling 
to Cherbourg to sail to-morrow. 

I have no plans for the present after leaving here. Shall 

wait to hear of Sam's condition after he gets back. With 

love to all, 

Aff'ly., M. D. R. 

Hohenstadt, Aug. 25th, 1900. 
Dear Laura, 

Your letter came this morning inclosed in one from Frank, 
who is now, to-day, in Cherbourg and will soon be on the 
St. Paul with Sam. The latter wishes to go, much to my 
regret, as the climate is so much better here. He will be far 
better off in Jamestown than in Philadelphia and cannot get 
there until October, as I cannot have the house ready. 

I wrote you of our doings up to the time we arrived at 
Hohenstadt. There is so much I would like to tell, but it is 
really impossible to write everything. All day Saturday 
they were busy decorating with flags and flowers and putting 
up a long table in the Hall. The Countess' brother, the 
Baron von Briisselle, is a remarkably handsome man, blonde 
and tall and most beautiful features. He also speaks English 
perfectly. He arrived Friday evening with a cousin, Baronin 
von Briisselle and a Frau von Fischer, who was an Adelmann 
and whose husband is a General. Another Cousin General 
von Camerer, is the head of the family. Then there was 
another Count Adelmann and the other Adelmann family, 
who occupy the floor under this. 

Early on Sunday morning we got up and dressed and had 

395 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

breakfast, then all the Adelmann family formed in line. 
Meantime the church was decorated and all the better class 
of villagers had formed in line on each side of the street, 
among them all the old soldiers. Then the band took its 
place and began to play as soon as the Adelmanns issued 
from the castle gate. Cliff and I stood inside between the 
castle and church to see them pass. 




VILLAGE FOLK PARADING FOR THE SILVER WEDDING 



First came two little nieces in white with blonde hair 
hanging down their backs and each holding a blue velvet 
cushion out in front of them on which rested one a silver 
wreath and the other a bunch of silver flowers — then came 
the Count and Countess, he in frock coat and high hat and 
she in a purple satin foulard with lace and a pretty little 
bonnet, then the family after them. As they entered the 
church door the organ pealed forth and we flew up the tower 
stairs to our proscenium box in time to see them come up 
into the chancel, where there were seats on each side like 

396 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

priedieu's to accommodate the whole of them. The Priest 
was very nice looking — wore the most gorgeous chasuble you 
can imagine, over a white linen robe edged with deep lace. 
The service was long and towards the end the Count and 
Countess came out from the side and knelt on a priedieu in 




GATE OF CASTLE HOHENSTADT 



THEjPROCESSION TO THE CHURCH 




COMING OUT OF CHURCH AFTER 
THE CEREMONY 



THE RETURN TO THE CASTLE 



the middle and the priest made some address and then he 
held the Evangels for each of them to kiss and then the 
service ended with some fine music and they marched out 
again between the lines of people and the band playing. 

They then received all the villagers in the great Hall and 
gave them sherry and cake. After lunch we all retired to 

397 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

rest for the dinner, to be at six o'clock. I wore my jet evening 
dress for the first time, much I fear to the scandal of the two 
priests present. None of the other women had real evening 
dress, but some had low linings and mine looked very well 
with the gorgeous uniforms of the men. 

General Camerer was magnificent in full uniform covered 
with orders, among them the iron cross. The others all had a 
beautiful order hung from a red velvet sort of yoke which lay 




SCHLOSS AND CHURCH, HOHENSTADT 



below the collar and then strings of orders across the left 
breast. Count. Adelmann and Baron Briisselle also had two 
gilt buttons at the back of the waist which they wear now 
instead of the big golden key, as Chamberlains to the King 
of Wurtemburg. 

The Baron has been everywhere in Europe with the King 
and told me many interesting experiences as he took me to 
dinner. The Count and Countess sat side by side in the middle 
of one side of the table and opposite them the General with 

398 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

his Aunt, the Baron Briisselle and myself came next and the 
other members of the family, and then village functionaries 
and the priests. None of the neighbors were invited as there 
were 21 people at table as it was. 

They used the celebrated service of Marie Antoinette 
china with tiny blue flowers made at the factory she estab- 
lished near Paris and which only existed a very few years, 
so it is now very rare. There are two pieces of it in the 




THE WEDDING COUPLE, FRIENDS, AND RELATIVES IN THE GARDEN 

Museum at Sevres. In the middle of the table was a cake 
2 ft. high from Pomerania called a Baumkuchen and looked 
like the stem of a fern palm. It was stuck over with blue and 
white flags and then at intervals down the table were jar- 
dinieres of the china service filled with alternately blue and 
white flowers and green asparagus, &c, were strewn between 
the dishes and silver flowers fastened to them — china plates 
filled with delicious cakes and bonbons completed the table 
decoration. 

As soon as the dinner was well under way Sigmund got 

399 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

up to read the telegrams which were 96 in number, 5 of them 
from royal personages and that was all most interesting. 
Then the General as the oldest of the connection rose and 
made an address and asked us to drink the health of the 
Count and Countess and then they all gave utterance to 
three "Hoch's!" and it was very stirring. 

Just then came trooping into the room six or eight of the 
strangest figures dressed in long frock coats, short breeches 




'HOCH!" 



and long white stockings and fur caps each with an instru- 
ment, then one of them came forward to Count Adelmann 
and taking off his cap said, "We are the musicians of your 
great-great-grandfather Joseph Anselm and we want to play 
some old music." So they began to play with great vigor and 
after the different speeches, when they all gave their three 
Hoch's, they played a sort of accompaniment, like this, with 
each one, Do-mi-sol-do. 

I never saw a more beautiful sight than the Hall and the 
dinner, the big glass chandeliers with their lights and the 

400 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

portraits and gallery, and the long table and the bright colors 
of the flowers and uniforms and the musicians. The great 
tree cake was cut with much ceremony and the Count thanked 
every one for their good wishes and Raban made a speech 
requesting all to drink to the health of the Rosengarten 
family and then all the men came trooping round to touch 
my glass with theirs and gave us the three hoch's and the 
musicians played, and there was altogether a great time. 




MUSICIANS OF JOSEPH ANSELM AT THE WEDDING BANQUET, HOHENSTADT 

At each plate there was a photo of the Count and Countess 

and the chocolates were done in blue and white paper with 

a picture of the castle on them, which we kept for souvenirs. 

Then at the last one of the little girls in white came into the 

room with a basket and passed around to each one a ribbon 

favor, blue and white knot and streamers, with the dates of 

the two weddings, which we pinned on our shoulders. After 

dinner and coffee the village choir came in and stood up in 

the gallery and sang glees. During the evening the General 

played accompaniments and the men sang their old student 
26 401 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

corps songs of Tubingen and Frank was perfectly happy. 
Then the musicians played for dancing and everybody danced 
and it was one o'clock before we finally dispersed. 

The musicians had found their costumes among the 
peasants' old houses and they were just such as were worn at 
that old time. The next day Frank left for Paris and Baron 
Briisselle and his cousins also, as on Tuesday the soldiers 
were to appear on the scene to spend two days on their way 
to the manoeuvres. Clifford was moved into the room next 
to mine and the big table was left in the Hall, as we were to 
eat there while the officers were here. 

The next morning just as I was ready for breakfast I 
heard a tramping and looked out of the window to the front 
street and saw the Uhlans trooping along with their long 
lances, poised on their stirrups, and in beautiful uniforms, 
then carriages and great covered wagons, which were left 
under the trees at the side of the street. I went into the 
breakfast room and said "there is a whole army arriving" 
and sure enough officers and all had arrived much earlier 
than was expected and had to have an extra breakfast. 

There were five officers, each with a servant and a horse 
to be quartered in the castle, and the others were in the 
village, but came to dinner that evening. There was a Baron 
von Gemmingen, a cousin of Countess Adelmann's, a young 
Count Szeil, whose Father is a Prince, and so on. As they were 
only passing through there were no parades, only an examina- 
tion of the horses at 4 p. m. by two of the younger officers, 
so that evening we had only dinner with about 15 people at 
table and it all looked very fine with the uniforms of the officers 
and the flowers and lights. 

The General and I are having great fun with each other 
and he said he was going to serenade me at six o'clock the next 
morning. I said I thought it was rather early and thought 
no more about it. I had just gotten up at 8 a. m. the next 
morning when the most terrific trumpeting started up outside 
my door and there outside in the Hall stood the trumpeter, 

402 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

in full uniform, playing the reveille, and their uniforms are 
handsomer than our generals'. 

There was a big dinner in the middle of the day of at least 
21 people. I was much teased about my serenade. They 
had an early dinner and invited the other officers and young 
Baron von Ensberg and another officer came also from Adel- 
mannsfelden, where they were staying, and all the family 
from down stairs and we had another great dinner, with 
menus at each plate, and, between, a musical programme. 
The regimental band had been collected and played beau- 
tifully through the whole dinner, really fine selections. 

After dinner we stood at the castle windows looking 
across the moat to where they stood in the church yard. 
Then Count Adelmann requested them to play the Washington 
Post in our honor. Then I got together a red and a white and 
a blue China Aster bouquet tied together with a piece of red 
white and blue ribbon and Clifford and Raban went down 
and presented it to the leader with my thanks, and he then 
saluted me as I stood at the window. 

The officers dance a peculiar dance to the Washington 
Post and were quite surprised that we knew nothing about it. 
Clifford must introduce it. We spent the last afternoon in 
the garden where they drank beer and played croquet. In 
the evening a light supper and tea after, music and dancing, 
and then bed. 

The soldiers were to leave at seven o'clock in the morning 
and as I expressed some disappointment at not seeing them 
"en parade" they arranged to leave here, in full marching 
order, parading through the village street but had to dis- 
mount to go down the very steep hill and I was amply repaid 
for getting up. The uniforms are so fine and the helmets 
attached by long white cords to the shoulder of the coat, 
then the long lances, erect, they certainly looked formidable 
enough, and I could readily imagine how the French women 
and children raved when the cry was raised, "The Uhlans are 
coming." 

403 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

They looked so very high and big. We followed to the 
garden and watched them wind along down the steep hill and 
along the white road in the valley and as they turned and 
vanished they were all singing soldier songs. The General 
says as he can't marry me he is going to wait for little Laura, 
whom I have promised to bring over. The next day I cannot 
describe I am so tired, but will send this off and perhaps by 
the time you get it Frank will be with you and can tell you all 
about it. We hope his pictures will be good, as he took many. 
With much love to all, 

Aff'ly, M. D. R. 

The village choir and band came and sang old German 
hymns under the windows, very interesting music. Count 
Adelmann had to go down and make a speech and was very 
much affected, there were also fireworks. 

Hohenstadt, Aug. 26, 1900. 
Dear Frank, 

Your letter of Friday has just come to hand. I am sur- 
prised to find you did not go to Cherbourg. 

Thursday morning Mechtilde asked us to go over to the 
little school she is interested in as they were to give a little 
play. They had a little stage with trees on it and played 
Hansel and Gretel and it was too cunning. Two tiny little 
things dressed in costume and barefooted took the two parts 
and did very well. Before the curtain rose five little girls and 
boys, from 3 to 6 years old, stood in a row dressed in their best 
and with bouquets in their hands, and one after the other 
made a little speech and presented their bouquets. 

It was just like the German children's picture books and I 
thought of Clara all the time. I was in the front row with 
Count and Countess Adelmann and we were so near we could 
touch them. It was too cunning when they began "hochge- 
borne Herrschaft" and all that sort of thing, and their funny 
little high voices. You would have been delighted with it 

404 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

all. Raban took pictures of everything so perhaps he will 
give me some. 

In the afternoon we went to call at a neighboring castle, 
Baron Konig, who receives on Thursdays. Countess Adel- 
mann, Sigmund and I in the victoria and Mechtilde drove a 
dog cart with Clifford beside her and Raban behind. We 
went to Abtsgemund and turned off the opposite way from 
Aalen. Count A. was not very well that day and concluded 
to stay at home. 

We drove in through the village which was not very clean, 
but passing through an archway we were suddenly in the 
most beautiful garden, laid out in carpet designs and the 
entrance to the house quite on a level with the ground. It 
seems it used to be a castle, but they rebuilt the lower floor, 
changing it into a modern country house. It had a wide hall 
like our houses and rooms opening on each side. They led 
us through several rooms to the other side of the house and 
they had been seated on the small veranda and so we sat 
there awhile and there was a beautifully spread table down 
at the left up against the house. 

A man in livery brought coffee and tea and they gave us 
the most delicious bread and butter and currant tart and cakes 
I ever tasted. Anything like the way these people eat I never 
saw. The old Baron is very proud of his treasures and showed 
them to me. 

The right wing was an immense drawing room, which 
also opened on the garden like the French houses and every- 
thing was immaculate, not a scrap of dust to be seen anywhere, 
so I find there are good housekeepers here too. They had 
most wonderful old Majolica and other china and I was 
much interested. The son had travelled in America and came 
back with Raban, and they had an interesting book of postal 
cards. 

Friday it was rather rainy and we did nothing but write. 
It has taken me two mornings to describe the silver wedding 
and the soldiers to Laura and I ought to write it to Lina also. 

405 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Yesterday afternoon we spent in the garden and walking 
about. The atmosphere was remarkably clear and anything 
more beautiful than the light on the far away hills would be 
hard to conceive. We took a long walk along the brow of the 
hill coming out across a big field and in through the stables 
on the outer side of the street from the castle. Everything 
was swept and garnished for Sunday, even the streets and the 
stables seemed perfectly clean. 

Today, Sunday, we are to dine at the "Adler" instead of 
at home. Tuesday Count A. goes back to Sigmaringen. 
Wednesday we are to go to Ellwangen. Baron Brusselle has 
written his sister to let him know when we will be in Stuttgart 
as he will come in to show us about. With much love from 
all to all, and hoping for a cablegram as soon as you arrive, 

Aff'ly, M.D. R. 

Hohenstadt, Wed., Aug. 29th, 1900. 
Dear Father, 

By the time you get this you will have been at home a 
week and I hope satisfied. We have been very quiet lately. 
Raban and I have been out pheasant shooting twice and have 
proved ourselves very bad shots, but I enjoyed the walks 
and the exercise. We have paid two formal visits, one to 
Baron Konig and family and one to Baron Velvarts. The 
latter is a cousin of Hermann's. They say Hermann is at 
home on a visit but we shall not write to him. 

To-morrow we go to Ellwangen for the day and I suppose 
we will do some shopping there. We leave here Saturday 
afternoon and go to Stuttgart where we spend two days, 
then going slowly to Paris by way of Lake Constance and the 
Vosges. I think we arrive in Paris about the 15th September. 

Graf Adelmann left yesterday morning and we miss him 

very much. Raban went with him as far as Stuttgart and 

came back this morning. The Countess Mechtilde and I 

drove out to Mozlingen in the dogcart to meet him. This 

afternoon walked across the valley to top of hill over the 

406 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

Crockerluf farm. Splendid view with Adelmannsfelden in 
distance. The weather is much colder. Mother well. With 
best wishes for Sam's better condition, 

Cliff. 

Hotel Marquardt, Stuttgart, 

Sun., Sept. 2nd, 1900. 
Dear Father, 

We left Hohenstadt yesterday afternoon and arrived 
here for supper where we found the cable from you announc- 
ing your safe arrival. Mother did not get up for breakfast 
as she is tired and has a slight cold but will come down 
for lunch. 

Friday afternoon the people from Adelmannsfelden came 
over to Hohenstadt and spent the afternoon. They all spoke 
English so that it was very pleasant. We expect to leave 
here Tuesday morning and go I think to Lake Constance. 
Then to Lucerne, Zurich, the Vosges (6 days) Strasbourg and 
afterwards Paris. 

Mother expects Baron Bruselle will call tomorrow, Monday, 
and show her the curiosity shops. We drove to Elwangen 
the other day and she bought some things there. One old 
glass with C. A. and a crown on one side and a bishop's head 
on the other. There was a Christopher Adelmann, who was 
a bishop.* She also got a beautiful clergyman's surplice of 
brocade for $2j4 and this certainly was a bargain. Also a 
big german silver thing which she expects to make into a 
hall lamp. Hoping you and Sam will be very comfortable, 
and find nice people at Jamestown, With love, J. C. R. 

Hotel Marquardt, Stuttgart, 

September 2nd, 1900. 
Dear Frank and Sam, 

We were delighted to get your cablegram last evening. 

It was handed us at the supper table soon after our arrival. 

We left Hohenstadt in the same train you did. All the family 

*This curious cut glass goblet is at 1905 Walnut Street now. 

407 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

from both Etages came down to see us start and the Gen- 
eral at the last moment presented me with a large bouquet. 
Countess Adelmann and Mechtilde and Raban rode part of 
the way with us and then walked back. Clifford and I cer- 
tainly felt very badly at leaving them. Perhaps we stayed 
too long, but I proposed going last Thursday but they wouldn't 
hear of it and arranged an excursion to Ellwangen for the 
whole day. 

I wrote you on Sunday last and I think it was on Monday 
that we drove in the afternoon to Laubach in Leinthal, an 
old Burg, with double moat and lots of towers, a most inter- 




ADELMANNSFELDEN CASTLE AT ELLWANGEN 

esting place, the home of the von Wellwarths. There was 
the usual sit-down tea with a big Apfelkuchen and all kinds 
of cakes and there was a dungeon where the prisoners were 
let down with a rope and then covered up. Of course the 
Baron gave me his arm and escorted me everywhere through 
the home. I wrote little Laura a postal with a picture of it, 
but it does not do it justice as the trees hide the prettiest side. 
Thursday was arranged the long-expected excursion to Ell- 
wangen. We drove all the way, starting at nine o'clock and 
arriving at half past eleven. Countess Adelmann had made 
an appointment with the Doctor, so we went sightseeing 
without her, Cliff, Sigmund and myself. The old house in 

the town was very fine, built in the Italian Renaissance 

408 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

style and containing fine old rooms hung, some with brocade 
and some with Gobelin tapestries and the staircase was 
beautiful. We walked through the town and then to the 
Antiquary's before going to dinner at the Hotel Adler. 

The houses were very interesting with very wide gable 
ends turned towards the street. I bought a few things, among 
others an old church lamp for 25 marks and it is shipped to 
America, as old metal, and you must be on the lookout for it. 
I got also a large glass, i. e., a little larger than an ordinary 
tumbler, with the initials C. A. and a mitre and crown which 
proved to be the Prince Bishop Adelmann's who ruled in the 
1 6th century and they think it must have belonged to him. 
Sigmund was quite in despair but I said I wanted to keep it 
for the very reason that it had the Adelmann name on it. 
It cost 20 marks. 

After dinner we went into the church which is Norman 
on the outside and Baroque inside, and the Adelmann coat 
of arms is everywhere. It has a choir like the English cathe- 
drals and they now wish to restore the Norman interior as 
they find the Norman stonework is still in existence under 
the plaster — they have knocked it away in places and find 
the round stone columns and every detail just as it should be. 
After the church we drove up a high hill to the old Schloss, 
which was the residence of the Prince Bishops who were 
rulers as well as Bishops and now is used by the Government. 
It is a magnificent castle with a moat and two courts and the 
staircase of the inner court is very fine. 

One of these Prince Bishops was a Christopher Adelmann 
and he built a very large church on this same hill, to which 
pilgrimages are now made. It is a very beautiful rococo 
affair, with very fine wood carvings and the stucco is very 
elaborate. He is buried in this church and it was his brother 
who built the house in the town of Ellwangen. 

I was pretty well tired out with that excursion. I hope 
you got our letters written to the ship, and thought you would 
have sent a postal from Cherbourg, but got nothing. Of 
course we shall be very anxious to get your first letters. 

409 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We shall stay here to-morrow, Baron von Brusselle having 
asked his sister to let him know when we were to be in Stutt- 
gart, offered to come in and show us about and we expect 
him tomorrow. We shall go on Tuesday to Constanz and 
Zurich and Lucerne, Basle and from Mulhausen make a 
week's trip through the Vosges to Strasbourg. General von 
Camerer made out a nice trip for us and so we have about 
decided to go. 

I hope we may have a nice day in Lucerne to make an 
excursion up Pilatus and get one general view of Switzerland. 
We are most comfortable here, had a delicious dinner and I 
have a front room. 

I waited to see if Baron Brusselle would come and have 
just had two letters from Hohenstadt, saying he would not 
be able to come, and that they all missed us very much,.&c, &c, 
and the general signed himself General Donnerwetter! Write 
me all about Sam. With much love, 

Most aff'ly, M. D. R. 

Hotel d'Angleterre, Lucerne, 

Sept. 6th, 1900. 
Dear Frank and Sam, 

I don't know where you both are or whether you are both 
together. I was delighted that you had such a quick trip 
home and judge it must have been a quiet one. I wrote you 
last in Stuttgart where we spent a rainy Sunday and I was 
feeling miserable so did not see much on Monday. 

We left Tuesday morning early for Constance, where we 
had perfect weather and stayed in the old Benedictine mon- 
astery on an island, Insel-Hotel. Our rooms were over the 
cloisters and looked down into the court, with fountain and 
beautiful flowers. John Huss was confined in the tower of 
this monastery. The dining room was formerly the church 
and had two rows of pillars. The old Refectorium was the 
cafe and everything in the place was most interesting. In 

Ekkehard it tells about the people taking refuge in this 

410 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

monastery, when the Huns overran that part of Germany. 
The gardens on the lake side were most beautiful and alto- 
gether I wouldn't have missed it. 

Wednesday we came on to Zurich which we liked very 
much, though we had noisy back rooms on the court. The 
Landesmuseum was perfectly fine and worth staying over 
for — then we came here and much to our disappointment 
couldn't get in at the Schweizer Hof, although I had written 




"BAUR AU LAC," ZURICH 

a week ahead. The races are going on and Duse is playing 

here and the big hotels are full. 

Yesterday afternoon Cliff and I were driving about when 

we saw the Watsons disappear into a store and they were as 

glad to see us as we were to see them, so we arranged to go 

up the Pilatus to-day and to be with them to-morrow. We 

shall leave about six in the afternoon for Basle and begin our 

trip to the Vosges and probably be in Paris in another week. 

I am so dead tired I must stop, so hoping to hear from you 

soon and with much love to Sam. 

Your iff. wife, M. D. R. 

411 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Top of Pilatus, 2.30 P. M. 

Friday, Sept. 7th, 1900. 
Dear Frank, 

Just a few words while Clifford, Mr. Watson and myself 

are waiting for our coffee, before going up to the platform 

to look at the view. It was a fearful ride up on the car, 

but Mrs. W. was much more nervous than I. I don't like 

the going down very much, but we have the most perfect 




THE TOP OF PILATUS 



day of the season, absolutely clear and the coloring beyond 
words to describe. 

Love to all, M. D. R. 

Munster Hotel, 
Munster, Sept. 9th, 1900. 
Dear Father, 

Here we are in a nasty little place and absolutely uncer- 
tain of what we are going to do. The hotel is no more like 
the picture than black is to white. We have been in Switzer- 
land and met Mr. and Mrs. Watson at Lucerne and went up 
Pilatus with them. Mother enjoyed Constance and Zurich. 
We read in the N. Y. Herald that your trip was a record one, 
so that we are pleased to think that you must have had 
pleasant weather. 

With best wishes to you and Sam. Cliff. 

412 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

Hotel Altenburg, Munster, 

Sept. nth, 1900. 
Dear Frank and Sam, 

Not a word as yet from you, but we hope for a letter at 
Strasbourg. This is a perfect hotel, 3600 ft. up, and with 
everything new and comfortable, perfect cleanliness, every 
convenience and our rooms only 4 marks. We came from 
Basle to Colmar on Sunday and came on to Munster for the 
night, thinking it would be more comfortable, but it was 
dreadfully dirty. We were delayed a whole day by not being 
able to draw money on Sunday. We couldn't draw German 
money before we got to Colmar so I waited at Munster and. 
Clifford went back to Colmar early Monday morning and 
got the money and we drove up here in the afternoon, having 
lost 24 hours, as we could have come right through to here 
Sunday night. 

We are just a little below the Schlucht or summit and the 
view down over the Munster Thai is exquisite. We go on in 
carriage to Gerardmer, over the summit and into France to 
breakfast at the Hotel du Lac and return here for to-night. 
To-morrow we go on back to Colmar and up to Oberrheinheim 
where we get off to drive to the Odilienberg and perhaps 
get to Strasbourg to-morrow night. From there to Metz where 
we drive over the battlefields and make an excursion to Treves, 
where are wonderful Roman remains, back to Metz and fast 
train to Paris. 

We are having wonderful weather, though a little too 
hazy for clear view. I telegraphed to Emma to meet us at 
Gerardmer to-day but she answered it was impossible and 
they were going to Paris Sept. 15th. I suppose we shall get 
there Monday 17th. 

The Marquis of Salisbury is here. As I came out from 
breakfast on the enclosed glass veranda I met him and had a 
good look at him — he is big and broad like Father but not 
as tall and has blue eyes and wears a black skull cap just as 
Father did. 

At the table d'hote the people all looked first class and 

413 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

those near me were Americans, but spoke French like natives. 
The mother afterwards told me her daughter was married to 
a French engineer and she had lost her son, also an engineer, 
six weeks ago — died from overwork and paralysis. She 
spends her time over here. Years ago she spent six years 
at the Marquardt, Stuttgart, and knew von Gemmingens 
and von Camerer. I must try to find out their names. She 
is from Kentucky. I would love to stay here two or three 
weeks with a friend or two. It is such a perfect comfort. 
Farewell, with much love for both. 

Your aff. M. D. R. 

Hotel Angleterre, Strasbourg, 

Sept. 13th, 1900. 
Dear Father, 

Here we are at last out of the Vosges and well on our way 
to Paris, which we expect to reach Sunday or Monday. We 
have had wonderful luck with the weather as it has been 
quite clear and allowed us to take a great many long drives. 
The Vosges were very beautiful but awfully lonely. From 
here we go to Metz and drive over the battlefields of 70-71 
and then go to Treves and see the Old Roman remains. 
Your letters have just come for Mother and have been sent 
up to her. I expect to read them with great pleasure. We 
go to the Hotel Athenee. Metz I do not believe will interest 
us very much as we do not know who commanded the differ- 
ent army corps and which regiments were most concerned. 
But Treves I am sure we will enjoy. The guide book which I 
have been reading says that it has the finest Roman remains 
outside of Italy. With much love to you and Sam. 

Sincerely, Cliff. 

Hotel Porta Nigra, Trier, 

Sept. 15 th, 1900. 
Dear Frank, 

Just a few words before leaving Treves, as I know I won't 
have time again for several days. We were going to take 

the one o'clock train, but there was so much that was inter- 

414 



GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA 

esting to see and the Hotel is so comfortable and the coffee 
so remarkably good that Clifford absolutely proposed staying 
until the six o'clock train. Just now we were taking coffee 
and bread and butter (as we will get "kein abend-essen") 
and sitting in the glass terrace overlooking the great three 
story Roman gate and the boy playing the hose over the 
street, for the heat and dust are terrific, when a whole regi- 
ment of artillery came in and some of the officers came in to 
refresh and eat here. They are a splendid looking lot of men 
and very formal with each other. They were white with dust 




pi 

PORTA NIGRA, TRIER 

and Clifford and I were the same yesterday after driving to 
Gravelotte — it is like , around St. Louis. 

We spend to-night in Metz and take the fastest train to 
Paris, which leaves at noon, and gets in at six p. m. I shall 
have Mrs. Watson to go about with. I only hope this heat 
will not continue, it seems unbearable after the cool air of 
Hohenstadt and the Vosges. I was delighted you had such 
a comfortable trip home, but I am sure you and Sam have 
already repented. How I wish you were here with your 
camera to take pictures of these wonderful things. I must stop. 

Aff. M. D. R. 

415 




FRANCE 



Paris, Sept. 18th, 1900 
Dear Father, 

We are staying at the Bedford Hotel back of the Made- 
leine and hope to get into theFrance et Choiseul to-day or 
to-morrow. Last night we dined at the Tour d'Argent. Saw 
Pepper for a few minutes before he left for London to sail for 
America. Treves was really fine and we would have liked to 
stay longer. We are surprised and grieved to hear of Dr. 
DaCosta's death, but as yet have received no details. 



With love, 



J. C. R. 



Bedford Hotel, Paris. 

Sept. 1 8th, 1900. 
Dear Frank and Sam, 

Clifford says he wrote this morning, but as I have a little 
leisure time before lunch I must utilize the time. Later 
when we are settled I will find out what days the mails go and 
have special days for writing. 

When we arrived hot and dusty Sunday night they 

couldn't take care of us but sent us on here, where we have 

two dirty noisy rooms, but they are a good deal better than 

none. We had a terrible time getting away from the station — 

I was really frightened at the crowd, and if the man in control 

416 



FRANCE 

had not given us a cab that had been ordered for someone 
else, I don't know when we would have got away. 

Yesterday Clifford went to the Hotel de France and 
Choiseul and we are to get in there to-day and move into 
other rooms to-morrow. I went to the Regina to lunch and 
Cliff went to see Pepper off. It is so very hot here that any 
exercise is uncomfortable, and it hasn't rained for weeks and 
the whole of France is parched and burned up. The Watsons 
will be here and probably Mrs. Hazard will soon be back and 
I shall look up the Christophersons as soon as we are settled. 
I am tired out and shall keep quiet until this hot spell is over. 

You cannot imagine the crowds, they are something 
fearful. As I was walking to the Regina yesterday along the 
Rue de Rivoli, who should come up beside me but Henrietta 
Tower, now Mrs. Wurts of Rome, with her husband whom 
she introduced. She is wonderfully improved in appearance 
and was very nice and cordial. I forgot to ask where they 
were staying. Hoping to hear often of Sam's improvement 
and with love to you, Laura and all, 

Aff'ly, M. D. R. 



27 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1903 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1903 

These long-though t-of journeys, even proposed in 1869, were 
undertaken after prolonged study and carefully arranged 
details and accomplished with delight.* 

Sailing on the Steamship Auguste Victoria from New York 
on February 3rd, 1903, with a most interesting lot of passen- 
gers, the first stop was made at Madeira, then Gibraltar and 
rail trips to Granada and the Alhambra, Algeciras, Ronda, 
Andalusia and Malaga in Spain. Then to Algiers, Blidah, ChirTa, 
Genoa, around the Bordighera to Nice, Monte Carlo, Ischia 
and Ville Franche. Then began the journey to the East, 
the Holy Land and Egypt. 

This included a visit to Syracuse in Sicily, Malta, Nauplia, 
Mycense, Kalamaki, Corinth, Athens and the Piraeus in 
Greece, on to the Dardanelles and the Sea of Marmora, through 
the Bosphorus to Constantinople, Scutari and a run to the 
Black Sea. Then to Cyprus and to Beyrout, Damascus, 
Rayak, and Baalbec. 

Thence to Joppa and Jerusalem, the Mount of Olives, 
Jericho, Dead Sea and the River Jordan. 

Sailing from Joppa, to Alexandria in Egypt and thence to 
Cairo and Luxor. 

The return journey from Alexandria was made by way of 
Palermo, Messina, Taormina, Naples, Rome and Paris, and 
sailing for New York on May 8th, 1903. 

* The plans of travel were so carefully studied out and arranged that a cablegram 
could have reached her almost any time on the journey. 



INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1903 

TOUR ON S. S. AUGUSTE VICTORIA,— AZORES, GIBRALTAR, GRANADA 
AND THE ALHAMBRA, ALGIERS, SICILY, GENOA, RIVIERA, GREECE, MALTA, 
CONSTANTINOPLE, HOLY LAND, JERUSALEM, ETC., ALEXANDRIA, CAIRO, 
LUXOR, ETC., IN EGYPT; NAPLES, ROME, PARIS. 



Aboard S. S. Auguste 

Victoria Feb. 

The "Star Spangled Ban- 
ner" Feb. 

Guardabassi Feb. 

Madeira Feb. 

Rough landing Feb. 

Wonderful views Feb. 

Bullock Carts Feb. 

Funchal Feb. 

Mosaic Patterns in Street 
Paving Feb. 

Funicular to the Church 
2000 ft Feb. 

Steep hills, reminders of 
Clovelly Feb. 

Wonderful color effects 
and flowers Feb. 

Climate wonderful Feb. 

Beauties of the Casino . . . Feb. 

Wicker things and pur- 
chases Feb. 

Gibraltar Feb. 

Tangiers — Scimitar and 
powder horn Feb. 

Algeciras Feb. 

Baroness Von Ketteler. .Feb. 

Orchards of olives and 
almonds Feb. 

Ronda, Andalusia Feb. 

Granada Feb. 

Alhambra and its won- 
ders . .Feb. 

Sierra Nevadas, snow 
covered Feb. 

Generalife Palace and 
gardens Feb. 

Carthusian Monastery ..Feb. 

Malaga and its interest- 
ing things Feb. 

Grand Hotel del' Oasis, 
Algiers Feb. 

Excursion to Blidah. . . .Feb. 

Arab quarter of Algiers. .Feb. 

Country a surprise, like 
New England Feb. 

Cold weather a surprise. Feb. 

Blidah, Chasseurs d'Af- 
rique and Zouaves .... Feb. 

Arabian horses Feb. 



3, 1903 427 

3, 1903 427 

3, 1903 427 

1, 1903 430 

1, 1903 430 

1, 1903 430 

1, 1903 431 

1, 1903 43i 

1, 1903 43i 

1,1903 431 

1, 1903 43i 

1, 1903 432 

1, 1903 433 

1, 1903 433 

1, 1903 434 

6, 1903 436 

6, 1903 438 

6, 1903 438 

6, 1903 438 

6, 1903 438 

6, 1903 439 

6, 1903 440 

6, 1900 440 

6, 1903 441 

6, 1903 441 

6, 1903 441 

6, 1903 442 

7, 1903 442 
7, 1903 443 
7, 1903 443 

7, 1903 443 

7, 1903 444 

7, 1903 444 

7, 1903 444 



Tangerine oranges Feb. 

Gorge of Chiffa Feb. 

Absence of monkeys . . . .Feb. 
Old Roman walls and 

Moorish houses Feb. 

U. S. Navy ships, Chicago 

and Machias Feb. 

Genoa Feb. 

Smooth passage Feb. 

"Nearer the Equator 

more furs are needed ".Feb. 

Adieux at Genoa Feb. 

Eden Palace Hotel, 

Genoa Feb. 

Hotel des Anglais, Nice. Feb. 

Monte Carlo Feb. 

Along the Riviera Feb. 

Languages, German, 

Portuguese, Spanish 

French, Arabic, Italian. Feb. 
Roses, violets, carnations 

and narcissus Feb. 

Oranges and lemons Feb. 

Cafe Ciro Feb. 

Flower parade Feb. 

Bataille des Fleurs Feb. 

Carnival at Nice, wire 

masks Feb. 

Cannes Feb. 

Due d'Orleans Feb. 

Villefranche Feb. 

Ischia Feb. 

Capri Feb. 

Syracuse Feb. 

Mt. .Etna Feb. 

Greek Theatre Feb. 

Ear of Dionysius Feb. 

Church where St. Paul 

preached Feb. 

Malta : Feb. 

Citto Vecchio Feb. 

Governor's summer pal- 
ace Feb. 

Governor, Lord Grenfell.Feb. 

Curious cave shops Feb. 

Steep streets Feb. 

Wonderful weather Feb. 

Summer clothing Feb. 

Nauplia, Greece Mar. 

Tyryns, the Acropolis, 

1700 ft. above Mar. 



17, 1903 444 

17, 1903 445 

17, 1903 445 

17, 1903 445 

19, 1903 446 

19, 1903 446 

19, 1903 446 

19, 1903 447 

20, 1903 448 

20, 1903 448 

20, 1903 448 

20, 1903 449 

20, 1903 449 



20, 1903 449 

20, 1903 450 

20, 1903 450 

22, 1903 451 

22, 1903 451 

23. 1903 45 1 



23, 1903 
23, 1903 

23, 1903 
26, 1903 
26, 1903 
26, 1903 
26, 1903 
26, 1903 
26, 1903 
26, 1903 



453 
453 
453 
454 
454 
454 
454 
455 
455 
456 



26, 1903 457 

26, 1903 457 

27, 1903 457 



27, 1903 
27, 1903 
27, 1903 
27, 1903 
27, 1903 
27, 1903 
h 1903 



458 
458 
458 
458 
460 
460 
461 



i, 1903 462 



423 



INDEX 



Wonderful Cyclopean 
walls Mar. 

Shepherds and sheep. . . .Mar. 

Mycenae, Agamemnon's 
city Mar. 

Schlieman's Excavations Mar. 

Tomb of Agamemnon . . .Mar. 

Kalamaki Mar. 

Old Corinth Mar. 

The Isthmus and new 
canal Mar. 

Hotel Grande Bretagne, 
Athens Mar. 

Aboard Auguste Victoria . Mar. 

Just sailed from the Pir- 
aeus Mar. 

Dined with American 
Minister Jackson Mar. 

Acropolis, University 
Museum Mar. 

Dardanelles Mar. 

Sea of Marmora, Bos- 
phorus Mar. 

Constantinople Mar. 

Pera-Palace, Constanti- 
nople Mar. 

City of filth Mar. 

Yildiz Kiosk, Sultan en- 
tering it Mar. 

Gorgeous military and 
civil uniforms Mar. 

Thousands of soldiers, 
big men Mar. 

Mosques, white palace, 
Museum Mar. 

Ramadan, hordes of 
sheep in streets Mar. 

Illumination of the Mos- 
ques Mar. 

Visit to American college, 
Scutari Mar. 

Feast of Beiram, 2000 
sheep Mar. 

"Loukoum" (Turkish 
Delight) Mar. 

Sultan's gifts, camellias, 
azaleas and "loukoum" Mar. 

Trip to Black Sea, Run 
through Bosphorus . . .Mar. 

Baron Marshall von 
Bieberstein Mar. 

Candies for ladies, cig- 
arettes for men from 
Sultan Mar. 

Shadowed by detectives 
and spies Mar. 

Coast of Cyprus, Isle of 
Rhodes Mar. 

Beyrout Mar. 

Difficult landing in small 
boats Mar. 

Damascus Mar. 



I 
I, 


1903 
1903 


462 
462 


I, 

I, 

I, 
I, 
I, 


1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 


462 
462 
463 
463 
463 


I, 


1903 


463 


3, 
4, 


1903 
1903 


464 
464 


4, 


1903 


464 


4, 


1903 


465 


4, 
4. 


1903 
1903 


465 
46S 


4, 
7, 


1903 
1903 


465 
466 


7, 
7, 


1903 
1903 


466 
466 


7, 


1903 


466 


7, 


1903 


466 


7, 


1903 


467 


7, 


1903 


467 


7, 


1903 


467 


7, 


1903 


468 


7, 


1903 


468 


8, 


1903 


469 


8, 


1903 


470 


8, 


1903 


470 


8, 


1903 


470 


", 


1903 


47i 


11, 


1903 


47i 


11, 


1903 


47i 


11, 


1903 


47i 


11, 


1903 


47i 


13, 


1903 


472 


13, 


1903 


472 



Palace Hotel A4ar. 13 

Nice train to Damascus. Mar. 13 

Lebanon Mountains Mar. 13 

Wonderful views, bitter 

cold Mar. 13 

Camel trains Mar. 13 

Arab costumes Mar. 13 

Bible expressions recalled Mar. 13 

Rayak Mar. 13 

Baalbec and its marvel- 
lous ruins Mar. 13 

Temples of Jupiter and of 

the Sun Mar. 13 

Ruins of Athens are tame 

as compared to these. .Mar. 13 
Wonderful Cyclopean 

stones Mar. 13 

Exquisite marble carv- 
ings Mar. 13 

Danger from use of bra- 
ziers to heat rooms. . . .Mar. 13 
Feast day and its curious 

costumes, etc Mar. 13 

Apricot, orange and lem- 
on trees, in full blos- 
som Mar. 15 

Faithful saying prayers. .Mar. 15 
Jewish and Christian 

houses Mar. 15 

Very fine interiors Mar. 15 

Jewish procession carry- 
ing an infant Mar. 15 

Bazaars Mar. 15 

Looking at the city by 
moonlight, from the 

housetop Mar. 15 

Arab coffee house and 

nargilehs Mar. 15 

Interesting people in 

party Mar. 21 

Officers of Prussian Garde 

du Corps Mar. 21 

Jerusalem Mar. 21 

Joppa, easy landing . . . .Mar. 21 

A filthy city Mar. 21 

Saluted by a Baldwin 

locomotive Mar. 21 

Crossing the Plain of 

Sharon Mar. 21 

Mud villages Mar. 21 

Hills of Judea, Tower of 

David Mar. 21 

Bethsheba, now a fort- 
ress on top of Mt. Zion . Mar. 2 1 
Mt. Moriah and the 

Temple Mar. 21 

Holy Sepulchre, groups of 
churches, Greek, Cath- 
olic, Roman, Armenian, 
Coptic and Abyssinian 
where Christ was 
buried Mar. 21, 



1903 
1903 
1903 

1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 

1903 

1903 

1903 

1903 

1903 

1903 

1903 



1903 
1903 

1903 
1903 

1903 
1903 



1903 

1903 

1903 

1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 



472 
473 
473 

473 
474 
474 
474 
475 

475 
475 
475 
475 
476 
476 
477 



478 
478 

478 
479 

479 

479 



479 

480 

480 

480 
480 
481 
482 



1903 482 



1903 
1903 

1903 

1903 

1903 



482 
482 

482 

482 

482 



1903 482 



424 



INDEX 



Overwhelming sensation 
on seeing actual spot of 
Christ's suffering Mar. 21 

Greek Patriarch and pro- 
cession Mar. 21 

Bethlehem, more un- 
changed than Jeru- 
salem Mar. 21 

Showing manger where 

Christ was born Mar. 21 

City walls dating from 

8th Century Mar. 21 

Country picturesque and 

lovely flowers Mar. 21 

Mosque of Omar, on site 
of Soloman's Temple. .Mar. 21 

Rock at top of Mt. 
Moriah where Abraham 
offered Isaac as sacri- 
fice Mar. 21 

Mt. of Olives Mar. 21 

Jericho, Dead Sea and 

the river Jordan Mar. 21 

Wicked looking Bedouin 

as guard Mar. 21 

Road made for German 

Emperor Mar. 21 

Decent hotel at Jericho. Mar. 21 

Monastery where Elijah 

was fed by ravens . . .Mar. 21 

Mt. Nebo, where Moses 
first saw the promised 
land Mar. 21 

Dangerous ride to the 

Dead Sea . . - Mar. 21 

Swim in Dead Sea Mar. 21 

Sodom and Gomorrah. . .Mar. 21 

Great change of tem- 
perature from cold in 
Jerusalem to heat of 
Jericho Mar. 21 

Descent of 3500 ft. to 

Dead Sea Mar. 21 

Jordan River only a 

creek. Mar. 21 

Spot where Christ was 

baptized Mar. 21 

Fill can with Jordan 

water Mar. 21 

Bethany, house of Mary 

and Martha Mar. 21 

Lunch at the Apostles' 

Fountain Mar. 21 

Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo Mar. 24 

A combination of Paris 

and Saratoga Mar. 24 

General von Roeder .... Mar. 24 

Pyramids and Sphinx. .Mar. 26 

Tombs of the Mame- 
lukes Mar. 26, 



1903 
1903 

1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 



1903 
1903 

1903 

1903 

1903 
1903 



483 
483 



483 
483 
484 



484 



484 

485 

48S 

485 

485 
485 



1903 48S 



1903 485 



1903 
1903 
1903 


48s 
48s 
48s 


1903 


48s 


1903 


48s 


1903 


48s 


1903 


485 


1903 


485 


1903 


486 


1903 
1903 


486 
486 


1903 
1903 
1903 


487 
487 
488 



1903 



Disfigured faces of chil- 
dren Mar. 

Brugsch Bey Mar. 

Mena Hotel on edge of 
Desert Mar. 

Mohammedan Wedding. Mar. 

Elias Bey's giftof ascarabMar. 

Luxor, Luxor Hotel Mar. 

Dusty ride, Summer Heat 
and flies Mar. 

Temple of Karnak .Mar. 

French Government ex- 
cavations Mar. 

Troops of natives and 
overseers with whips. .Mar. 

Avenues of sphinxes Mar. 

"Egypt of my dreams ".Mar. 

Lybian Hills, beyond the 
Nile Mar. 

Picturesque boats Mar. 

Women with water vases 
poised on their heads. Mar. 

Misery of the people. . . .Mar. 

Thebes Mar. 

Tombs of the Kings. . . .Mar. 

Aboard Auguste Victoria . Mar. 

Alexandria Mar. 

Presentation of silver 
bonbon box as sou- 
venir of Steam Ship 
Company Mar. 

Palermo, Sicily Mar. 

Messina and Taormina .Apr. 

Hotel St. Domenica Apr. 

Mt. Aetna Apr. 

Beautiful Taormina Apr. 

True Greek theatre Apr. 

Pompeii Apr. 

La Tosca at Naples Apr. 

Hotel Bertolini Apr. 

Ascent of Mt. Vesuvius. Apr. 

Rome Apr. 

Strike of cabmen Apr. 

Mrs. Elliot's house near 
Palace of Queen Marg- 
herita Apr. 

Old Aurelian wall Apr. 

Tea rooms on the Corso.Apr. 

Santa Maria Sopra Mi- 
nerva Apr. 

Pantheon Apr. 

Tombs of Victor Emman- 
uel and Umberto Apr. 

St. Peter's, Miserere sung 
by Sistine Choir Apr. 

Villa Medici, Borghese 
gardens Apr. 

Easter Mass at St. 
Peter's Apr. 

Pincian Hills Apr. 

Tivoli Apr. 



26, 1903 488 

26, 1903 488 

26, 1903 489 

27, 1903 494 

27, 1903 491 

28, 1903 491 

28, 1903 491 

28, 1903 492 

28, 1903 492 

28, 1903 492 

28, q903 492 

28, 1903 494 

28, 1903 495 

28, 1903 495 



28, 1903 
28, 1903 
28, 1903 

28, 1903 

29, 1903 
29, 1903 



495 
495 
495 
495 
496 
496 



29, 1903 496 

29, 1903 496 

2, 1903 496 

2, 1903 496 

2, 1903 496 

2, 1903 49 6 

2, 1903 497 

6, 1903 499 

6, 1903 499 

6, 1903 499 

6, 1903 499 

11, 1903 499 

11, 1903 499 



11, 1903 499 

11, 1903 500 

11, 1903 500 

11, 1903 500 

11, 1903 500 

11, 1903 500 

11, 1903 500 

11, 1903 500 

11,1903 500 

11, 1903 500 

17, 1903 501 



425 



INDEX 



Villa d'Este and wonder- 
ful gardens Apr. 

Hadrian's villa Apr. 

Cardinal Rampolla Apr. 

Grand Hotel Apr. 

Via Appia Nuova and 
Campania Apr. 

Sabine hills and Frascati Apr. 

Rag fair Apr. 

Barberini Palace and Cas- 
tellani's Apr. 

Baths of Diocletian Apr. 

Ezekiel and his studio. .Apr. 

Call at the embassy . . . .Apr. 

Lunch at Mrs. Haseltine'sApr. 

Costanzi Theatre, Opera 
of "Germania" Apr. 

Got rosaries from Holy 
Sepulcher in Jerusalem 
and Bethlehem blessed 
by the Pope Apr. 

Villa Doria-Pamfili ....Apr. 

Monte Janiculum, Tas- 
so's Oak Apr. 



17, 


I903 


Sci 


17, 


I903 


501 


17, 


I903 


501 


17, 


1903 


Soi 


17, 


1903 


502 


17, 


1903 


502 


17, 


I903 


502 


17, 


I903 


502 


17, 


1903 


502 


17, 


1903 


502 


17, 


1903 


502 


17, 


I903 


502 


17, 


1903 


5°3 


17, 


I903 


S03 


21, 


1903 


S03 


21, 


1903 


5°3 



Mountains covered with 

snow Apr. 21, 1903 503 

Paris Apr. 29, 1903 504 

Dinner at "Tour d' Ar- 
gent Apr. 29, 1903 504 

Dinner at Durand's Apr. 29, 1903 504 

Paillard's Apr. 29, 1903 504 

Visit Marquise de Roch- 

ambeau Apr. 29, 1903 504 

Paris decorated to re- 
ceive King Edward. . .Apr. 29, 1903 504 

Cafe Foyot May 3, 1903 505 

Concert Rouge May 3, 1903 505 

Opera May 3, 1903 505 

Illuminations, etc., for 

King Edward May 3, 1903 505 

The "Salon" and pic- 
tures May 3, 1903 505 

Tea and strawberries at 

cake shop May 3, 1903 505 

Dinner at "Noel and 

Peters" May 3,1903 505 

Madeleine and St. Roch.May 3, 1903 505 

Lunch at "Viau's" May 3,1903 505 

Sails for New York May 8,1903 505 




MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 

Feb. 3rd, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

You are only just gone but I thought I would send just a 
line. People are now pouring in. The band was playing 
something of Sousa's. Just now while I was beginning this 
the band struck up the Star Spangled Banner and the lady 
sitting next to me burst into tears. Her husband said, "Oh, it 
always affects you so, doesn't it?" We are lucky to have 
such a nice day. I shall miss you very much and do so wish 
you had thought it best to come. Did you see Guardabassi 
on the dock near you? I am going down now to take a bite 
of lunch and get my stateroom fixed up and then I shall retire 
to the deck to stick it out as long as possible. 

I forgot to tell you I still have two tickets for the last 
Opera night, March 17th, and told Laura she had better come 
up and use them with you. If she cannot come I hope you 
will invite some one to go with you. 

I must go now, so farewell, take care of yourself and take 
my best love. I meant to write to the Adelmanns to ask if they 
could give me any letters anywhere. Won't you do it and give 
them a list of our stoppings? I should have done it sooner. 

Your loving, M. D. R 



427 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 

February, 1903, 9 P. M. 
Dear Father, 

We expect to get to Madeira to-morrow after a rough 
rainy trip. The first day was smooth and pleasant but since 
then the boat has been continually rolling in a heavy side 
sea. I missed lunch on the second day but did not mind. 
Mother was pretty ill and kept in her cabin, but has been on 
deck now for three days. We have well-placed seats at table 
near the door. The food is greasy and covered with fancy 
sauces. The sleeping cabins are very stuffy. 

Cliff. 

Auguste Victoria, Monday, February 9th, 1903 

Just after lunch. 
Dear Frank, 

As I want to enjoy the fresh air and sunshine I will begin 

my letter out here on deck. We have had a horrible trip and 

after I went down to my room on Tuesday night I never came 

up again until Saturday at lunch time, and even since then 



iLv^J^K^ 




S. S. AUGUSTE VICTORIA 

it has been almost constantly raining and blowing. Wednes- 
day morning we got into warm weather and it was uncom- 
fortably warm in the staterooms and other rooms and even 
on deck. They have had to keep the sides wholly enclosed 

on account of the wind and rain. I find that all the people'we 

428 



MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 

know are going to get off at Genoa, some to go to Sicily and 
others to stay on the Riviera and to Rome. We are to arrive 
at Madeira. It is hard to realize we are off the coast of Africa. 

It is really cooler today than it has been at all and we had 
fresh air in the stateroom for the first time. Of course the 
worst is now over and a young Mr. Curtis, a college friend of 
Charley Sinnickson's, says that his experience is that it is 
delightful sailing after Gibraltar, but I have made an applica- 
tion for a stateroom on the deck above where I can always 
have an open window, for I seem to not be able to sleep down 
there. To-day is like our ordinary summer trips across the 
Atlantic, but it has been much warmer hitherto. They say 
it will be warm in Funchal. We arrive there some time in the 
forenoon and spend the night in a good hotel and depart at 
5 in the afternoon. 

Cooks' people take us up to the top of the mountain funicu- 
laire and down in sledges and then leave us to ourselves. 

There was a very nice service yesterday, and they prayed 
for the dear ones at home. I have missed you very much ; I shall 
write as often as possible and hope all is well at home. I wrote 
with a pencil on deck and am now in the conversation room to 
finish up. It was quite gay at dinner to-night as the people are 
beginning to get acquainted. The food is very beautifully 
garnished and served but rather heavy. A man who looks 
exactly like Dr. Lorenz sits opposite and he is a Dr. from Berlin. 
A young German with him who has reminded us of Raban has 
been eating everything in great quantities and drinking beer and 
champagne and was not able to come to the table. I have been 
careful picking out the plain things, roasts and compote, as 
much as possible. Strange to say while the weather has cleared 
it is colder than at any other time since we left New York. 

I will write postals to-morrow and write a long letter at the 

first opportunity. I suppose the ship will cable our arrival 

and you will probably know it by noon. With much love to 

you both and all and kind regards to the girls, 

Your loving wife, M. D. R. 

429 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 
Leaving Madeira, February nth, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

We have just finished dinner and a very good one it was, 
after coming on board about 3 p. m. I have so much to tell 
that I almost dread to begin. All the time I was dressing yes- 
terday morning I was gazing out at the outlines of Madeira, 
rejoicing beyond words that I was going to put my feet on 
land. It is not a large island but very mountainous and very 
impressive in outline. As soon as the ship dropped anchor 




FUNCHAL FROM THE TERRACE 



little boats came out filled with half-dressed boys who dove 
into the water for pennies just like so many frogs, then we 
began to get into the row boats to go to the shore. The water 
was very rough and we had to jump into the boat when it 
rose on a wave, and then we danced along like a cork on top 
of the water. You would have been amazed to see my agility 
and freedom from any sickness. The view before us was in- 
comparable, the town lay on the side of the mountains slop- 
ing steeply down to the bay, square, white plaster houses, 
Portuguese or rather Spanish architecture, dotted all over 

430 



MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 

among banana trees, fern, palms, and the outlines of moun- 
tains are gorgeous rising out of the sea, something to re- 
member forever. 

The harbor was formed by an arm of stonework which 
came out to a fortified island rising straight out of the 
water. As we landed the bullock carts were waiting for us 
and it was all so wonderfully strange — the bullock carts, 
as all the vehicles in Funchal, are on runners, like a sled and 
it was a strange sensation to be jerked along zig-zag. The 
streets are all paved with very small pointed stones in beau- 




FUNCHAL, MADEIRA 

tiful mosaic patterns in many cases and shine like glass from 
the oil which is put on the runners to make them slip 
along As we came from the mole we passed along a high 
precipice on top of which was the Casino, then we went to 
the station and took the funicular R. R. up to the church on 
the hill, where there are hotels, and we lunched. The place in 
a way reminded me of Clovelly as the streets are as steep but 
it is far more beautiful. 

We had taken Cooks' tickets and were to ride down in 
sledges after lunch; they were flat things with cushioned 

431 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

seats and a man on each side to hold it back. Mrs. Potter, 
her daughter and myself came in one and were pretty well 
frightened, but one would quickly get used to it. How I 
wish I could adequately describe the wonderful color effects ; 
all the houses were white plaster with heavy green slatted 
shutters to keep out the sun, surrounded by tropical gardens 
and high white walls. The corners were arranged as a sort 
of loggia, protected by trellises covered either with a giant 
trumpet vine or masses of the Bougainvillea vine, such masses 
of color and when a gate would be open in a high wall we 




"COASTING" AT FUNCHAL 



could see glorious shady gardens, the ground covered with 
myrtle and giant camelia trees and big rose trees in full 
bloom. Another bush had a vivid scarlet flower shaped like 
hawthorn; bunches of unfamiliar flowers were on giant bushes 
and the ground was covered with pink and scarlet geraniums 
and heliotrope. All that with the blue sea behind was a dream. 
I pity the people who cannot see it, and when I think what 
you have missed I could cry. 

The sledges brought us down to the Santa Clara Hotel in 
the town and on as steep a street as the hotel in Clovelly. 
They met us with the information that not a room could be 

432 



MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 

had, but Mrs. Potter and I refused to go and finally they 
concluded to put us in the children's room in the garden. 

A wharf or mole of masonry opens into the principal 
promenade, which was of bare ground with a row of big 
sycamore or plane trees. The only sign of winter was that 
certain trees had not their foliage, but they were so few 
that they were not noticed. As to climate, heaven can- 
not have a better; imagine a perfect June day or July day 
with a delicious cool breeze never failing. I wore thin summer 




MOTHER'S CARRIAGE, MADEIRA 

clothing, but at night was glad of my coat. The hotel was so 
overcrowded that they put us at a pretty round table in a 
small room. A man and his wife whom we had spoken with 
were at our table and he asked us to accept some cham- 
pagne to drink to the success of our trip, and we had pretty 
flowers and a good dinner and an altogether good time; then 
we adjourned in bullock carts to the Casino, where there was 
a ball given in honor of the ship's arrival. The grounds were 
decorated with colored lights and inside in the ball room and 
the gambling rooms at either end great plateaus of camellias 
28 433 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and other flowers were everywhere and the most delicious 
refreshments were given. 

Clifford had to go back to the ship for the night. When 
we got into our room we found they had fixed a small 
room for me and when I got into bed there was no blanket 
and as it was quite cold, being on the ground and the 
stone walls very thick, I had to put my skirt over me, and 
my coat as well, and then I was afraid to move for fear of 
throwing off covers and could think of nothing I looked like 
so much as Brunhilde in the Valkyrie. 

The wicker things are perfectly fascinating and it was 
comical to see the people arriving at the ship this after- 
noon with every sort of thing in wicker from birds in cages 
to chairs and sofas. It is a great temptation to buy. Mrs. 
Potter gave away two or three dollars in pennies to beggars 
the first day, so to-day she was a little more careful. At 
the Hotel there was a terrace like the deck of a ship, built 
up very high between the street and the garden, where 
we could sit and a fascinating place it was. In the little 
narrow street the bullock carts slipping along and the 
strange cries of the drivers and on the other side the tropical 
garden, and in the distance the great headland at the North 
and the picturesque fort on the Loo rock, and the sea far 
below I shall never forget as long as I live, and how we did 
enjoy the excitement of the landings and the strangeness of 
everything. 

Aboard Ship, Thursday, Feb. 12th, 1903. 

I wrote as long as I could last night but couldn't finish. 
We are now arranging for our tour to Granada. Not all 
are going — like you they have not courage to endure the 
fatigue, but after reading the description in Murray's Hand 
Book I couldn't stay away. Clifford prefers to see more of 
Gibraltar and go over to Tangier for one day. I shall write 
you all about it on the ship en route to Algiers. I am in the 
seventh heaven, if it were not for my hot and disagreeable 
stateroom. I fear you will not receive my postals from Fun- 

434 



MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 

chal until after this as there are not many mails from there. 
We are all wrecks to-day. I must have used muscles that don't 
often come into play. Perhaps the Alhambra will not be so 
hard on us. Mrs. Potter and her daughter and the two Crillys 
will go with us to the Alhambra. I must say good bye as I 
fear to stay inside too long. It is much cooler and more motion 
than this morning. We must have passed very near Ceuta, 
the penal settlement on the African coast. I hope to hear at 
Genoa that you are all well and not too unhappy, when you 
think you might have been here instead of ugly Philadelphia. 
With love to you all and to those who inquire, 

Your arL, M. D. R. 

Approaching Gibraltar 
Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 

Feb. 1 2th, 1903. 
Dear Father, 

We land at Gibraltar early to-morrow morning and Mother 
goes with Mrs. Potter and her daughter and the Miss Crillys 
to Granada, while I go to Tangiers with a party of men. We 
had an ideal time at Madeira which is quite the prettiest place 
I have ever seen with the exception of Porto Rico. We 
landed the first day and went up the mountain on a cogwheel 
road after a ride in a bullock sledge over cobble paved streets 
worn smooth and shiny. The mountains are very steep and 
all terraced and bright green with sugar cane and banana 
trees. After a long wait we had a nice lunch and then visited 
an old church. We coasted down the mountain 2000 feet on 
hand sledges. Went to the Casino, which is a garden spot 
on top of a precipice overlooking the Ocean. We had after- 
noon tea there and then dined at the hotel St. Clara, going 
afterwards to the Casino to a ball, where all the Americans 
played roulette and lost, your son among others. The grounds 
there are filled with beautiful tropical trees and plants and 
there were beautiful illuminations. We have had beautiful 
moonlight nights and uninterrupted good weather for the last 

435 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

four days. Took twelve photos and hope they will turn out 
well. Am sure you would have enjoyed the island of Madeira. 
The second day we wandered around the streets and went to 
the Casino sailing at five in the afternoon. To-day is Lin- 
coln's birthday and was celebrated this morning with speeches, 
etc. We hear that there were bad storms just after we left 
N. Y. and that there was very cold weather. I hope you were 
not worried about us. I am to present our letters at Gibraltar, 
as Mother will not have time. 

With love J. C. R. 

After leaving Gibraltar 
Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 

Feb. 1 6th, 1903. 
Dear Father, 

Mother and I cannot agree which of us had the better 
time, she at Granada or I at Tangiers. The latter place has 




TANGIERS 

remained as yet almost entirely unspoiled by European influ- 
ences and while disgustingly dirty is most interesting. We 
had a smooth trip over of four hours and after landing we 
mounted donkeys and started off sightseeing. Saw the prison, 

436 



MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 




TANGIERS FROM THE CITADEL 




WATCHING A SNAKE CHARMER, TANGIERS 



437 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

the markets, the mosque, the citadel and a snake charmer. 
I bought a silver mounted scimitar dagger and a powder horn, 
of what looks like rhinoceros horn mounted with brass. 
Gibraltar was rather disappointing as it is not on the sea as I 
expected, nor is it the most southern point of Spain. The 
fortifications of course are wonderful. We spent yesterday 
at Malaga and enjoyed the Cathedral there. We arrive this 
afternoon at Algiers, which I am led to understand is a junior 
little Paris. We both keep well and enjoy the trip. We 
expect to find some letters at Genoa. Weather keeps fine 
and clear. With love, J. C R. 

Auguste Victoria 
Nearing Algiers, Feb. 16th, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

I suppose you will find our letters few and far between, 
but as we have only had two opportunities to post letters 
you understand how it is. I sent you postal cards from Gibral- 
tar Friday morning when we landed for an hour to see the 
town, and then started on our trip to the Alhambra. Clifford 
decided to go with a party to Tangiers and I went with Mrs. 
and Miss Potter by ferry to Algeciras and then took the train. 

The rock of Gibraltar is a wonderful sight and it loomed 
up higher and higher as we drew away from it by train . We had 
a most comfortable carriage with all the conveniences and 
very clean. Beside our party of five the Baroness von Ketteler 
and her sister from Detroit, McMillan were also in our 
carriage, they were very interesting people and were very 
pleasant, though on the ship they seemed to keep entirely by 
themselves and their surroundings are all very elegant and 
even their leather cushions were black to harmonize with their 
mourning. 

We at once began to climb into the mountains and 
the scenery became every moment more impressive, while 
the fields and valleys were beautifully cultivated, giving an 
impression of thrift and prosperity. Orchards of olives and 

438 



MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 

almonds all over the hills and the soil a rich red. The effect 
of the groves of almond trees in full bloom of pale pink flowers 
against the bare stony tops of the Sierra Nevadas, and the 
dark-grey green of the olives made a color picture well worth 
travelling far to see. I don't think the cherry blossoms in 
Japan can equal it. 




GIBRALTAR 



The beggars swarmed about us at every stop and we 
were soon able to understand what they said. I could 
very easily pick up Spanish if I could stay here a few 
weeks. All the women (not ladies) that are in the streets and 
about the stations wear their hair beautifully coiffed and look 
very neat; only the Moors that we saw were filthy. 

We passed through Ronda, a beautifully-situated place, 

439 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and considered the most picturesque in Spain. Undoubtedly on 
this trip we passed through the most beautiful part of Spain, 
Andalusia. We also saw San Francisco and Bobadilla; at the 
latter town I discovered some fine cakes and smelt the good 
coffee and as we were delayed there Cooks' man decided to 
treat us all to coffee and tea and we had quite a spree. We 
got to Granada at about seven o'clock and were taken in car- 
riages up the high hill to the Hotels which are very near the 
Alhambra, one facing the other. 




IN TANGIERS 



It was wintry cold and after a great deal of confusion 
we got our rooms in the Hotel opposite the Washington 
Irving, but not nearly so comfortable, as it is a sort of 
annex. There were no fires and we almost froze while 
eating our dinners, so as it was bright moonlight we took 
a guide, a handsome young Spaniard with a long cloak, and 
wandered all about the Alhambra. Ordinary words cannot 
convey the effect of that view. Far, far below. lay the old 
town of Granada, beyond the Gypsy Hill where they live in 

houses scooped out of the side of the hill and back at the right, 

440 



MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 

the Sierra Nevadas covered with snow. We stayed until 
midnight and then went to our icy cold rooms, but found 
warming pans, or rather bottles, in the bed. Everything was 
scrupulously clean, and in the morning they gave us each a soft 
wicker bag with handle with a lunch for the return journey. 
At seven we were called and at eight had breakfast and 
at nine were off to see the Genaralife Palace and gardens and 
wonderful indeed were they, the intricate lace-like carving, 
the delicate columns and arches, against the deep blue sky, 




THE ALHAMBRA 



were wonderfully beautiful. We walked there and back and 
then to the Alhambra, quite a climb up hill. Charles the Fifth 
tore away some of the finest carving and covered up others 
with plaster ceilings in the taste of that period and now they 
are taking that away and find the original coloring which they 
are copying in the restorations. 

After we had been taken in groups through all those wonders 
we were driven through the old part of Granada and out to a 
suppressed Carthusian monastery where they showed us a 
chapel constructed of the marbles from the Sierra Nevada of 

wonderful colorings, pink and coffee color, streaked with white. 

441 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

It was the most richly-decorated chapel I ever saw, with carved 
marble and gilded wood carving. The sacristy was a gem with 
all the doors and chests of drawers a solid mass of inlay work of 
tortoise shell, ivory and ebony, in Moorish designs. The cathe- 
dral was also very impressive but most of all the little narrow 
streets and the people and the donkeys with their queer saddles. 

We had lunch at the Hotel and drove in the carriage into 
the town. The ship sailed immediately and when I awoke in the 
morning we were at Malaga. This city, Malaga, presents a 
beautiful picture from the ship. We went over in small boats 
at ii, and had an early lunch, drove out to see the new villas 
and went all over the cathedral, which looms up high and 
square above the City, and a ruin on the hill, and most of all 
enjoyed roaming through the streets and seeing the people 
and trying to talk with them. 

We are so impressed in Spain by the number of blind 
people we see. It seems as if one-fourth of the whole pop- 
ulation was blind. We had a delicious lunch at the Hotel de 
Roma and came aboard at 4 o'clock and sailed at 5. I had 
reached the limit of my strength and lay in my chair all even- 
ing except while at dinner. The weather continues heavenly, 
like summer in the sun but cool in the shade. I took a slight 
cold in my bronchi at Granada and my throat ached with fa- 
tigue, but I am feeling much better as I get rested. 

We land at five o'clock at Algiers and expect to spend 
the night at the St. George Hotel up on the hill. As we 
have not yet heard a word from you we are beginning to 
be anxious for our first letters. With love for you and Sam, 
and hoping you are both well and happy. 

Your aff. wife, M. D. R. 

Grand Hotel de l'Oasis, Alger, 

Feb. 17th, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

For fear I will not get time to-morrow I will write a few 
words to-night. We came off the ship yesterday afternoon to 

the strains of the Star Spangled Banner, as there were three 

442 



MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 

of our warships in the harbor, and altho we were told it was 
of no use to try to get rooms, we were lucky enough to find 
a big room here on our arrival at the dock in little boats. 
Clifford concluded to sleep on board ship. Clifford dined with 
us and then went with Walter Cramp for the evening. We 
were dead tired and went to bed early, so as to get up at six 
thirty to make the excursion to Blidah today and to the Gorge 
of ChirTa. 




LANDING AT ALGIERS 



Our drive yesterday was up around the fortifications 
on the heights and down through the Arab quarter, a series 
of narrow streets crossed by flights of steep steps with houses 
almost touching and such filth and such picturesqueness 
it would be hard to find. This morning we started early 
without Clifford for Blidah by train. The country was a 
great surprise to me as it might have been New England 
except that the hedges were cactus and there were orange 
groves behind the close rows of pine trees, and the swarms 
of Arabs everywhere. Also we expected warm weather 
as it was very warm on the ship. Instead of that we were 

443 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

perished with the cold all day long. I longed for my fur 
cloak, which I had left on the ship. At Blidah carriages were 
waiting and we drove through the market place and saw the 
Arabs in swarms mixed with French soldiers, Chasseurs 
d'Afrique and Zouaves and saw the fine "pur sang" Arabian 
horses, belonging to the government and then went to the 
Hotel d'Orient and in that seemingly far-away Arab town 




ALGIERS 



had a most delicious lunch. The table was beautiful 
with plants and moss baskets, Tangerine oranges and mer- 
ingues, etc. We had fresh green peas, and were presented with 
a bunch of sweet violets at each plate and at the station^ian 
enormous basket of Tangerines was brought out and we were 
told to take all we wanted. 

In spite of the cold weather the trees are leaving out and^the 
roses are blooming and we are eating fresh peas and asparagus, 

444 



MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 

We had a long cold drive through the magnificent gorge of 
Chiffa in the mountains back of Algiers, ancient "Mauritania. " 
We saw no monkeys. Mr. Walter Cramp, whom we saw last 
eve, said there were swarms of them in warmer weather. We 
got home late and Clifford had left word he had been invited 
out to dinner, so I shall have to fall back on Cook to see the 
city of Algiers to-morrow as we must make an early start. 
We sail at five in the afternoon for Genoa and will probably 




BLIDAH 



have a rough time of it though it was smoother than the Sound 
coming here from Malaga. The old Roman walls and the 
Moorish houses are very interesting. Everything else is as 
modern as Paris and the contrast is violent. We expect to 
stay at Nice and be on land four or five days and will write 
from there. 

As I am sitting up now after every one else to write this, 
you must please forward it to Laura, as it is really impossible 
for me to write to any one else. With love to you and Sam 
and all who inquire, Your aff., M. D. R. 

445 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 
En route from Algiers, Feb. 19th, 1903. 
Dear Father, 

To-morrow morning we land at Genoa and take the noon 
train for Nice. We had cold, cloudy weather which dampened 
our enthusiasm at Algiers. The place is a modern city and 
the Arab quarter too civilized. To-day is bright, sunny and 
smooth, but quite cold. Mother has all her things packed so 
we can walk ashore. We fully expect to find our first home 
mail and are looking forward to reading it with a great deal 
of pleasure. Many people leave the ship at Genoa and some 
new ones come aboard, so we won't feel so much at home 
when we return to the ship at Villefranche. The Moltke 
came in at Algiers the day we left with 450 Cook excursionists. 
She is much larger than our boat and also more modern. 
The chief objection to this boat is the stuffiness of the sleep- 
ing cabins. Will write from Nice. 

With love J. C. R. 

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 

19th Feb. 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

We spent the day looking about Algiers in the Mosque, 
churches, &c, and walked through the Arab quarter. It 
would be hard to imagine the filth and squalor, the streets as 
wide as our front hall, the shops opening on them without any 
outlet at the rear and the houses having a small door right 
on the street. When I happened to see one open I looked in; 
it looked quite spacious and was whitewashed in blue, and 
looked clean enough. We came aboard about 4 o'clock — a cold 
wind blowing. The band played the Star Spangled Banner 
as we passed our ships the Chicago and Machias, and we were 
soon out at sea, rolling and pitching. I went to bed, most un- 
comfortable, expecting to be violently ill, but fortunately went 
to sleep and when I woke up found there was no motion. I 

took advantage of the smooth water to go down to my trunks 

446 



MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS 

in the hold and took out some clothes and arranged the small 
trunk for Nice. 

We intend to go right on to Nice, and as I tele- 
graphed from Gibraltar for rooms hope we can get them, 
but they say Nice is crammed. It is perfectly wonderful how 
all the places are jam cram full of people. The ship stays at 
Genoa two days but I have to get to the land as often as pos- 
sible to get rid of the boat. I believe this is about the worst 




BLIDAH 



trip we have to take, and it is as smooth as a mill pond. We 
hear all three ships are to be at Joppa at once and if so we 
may have to sleep in tents at Jerusalem. I told Cooks' man 
I would not do it. A lady on board told me that the nearer 
you went to the Equator the more you wanted your furs, and 
I have found it true. I needed my heaviest winter clothing 
and didn't have it. We hope to get our first mail to-morrow 
and to hear how you all are. Tell Sam to write me once in 
a while. With much love for you both, 



Your aff. 



M. D. R. 




THE MEDITERRANEAN 

Hotel des Anglais, Nice, 

Dear Frank, Feb - 2 ° th ' ^ IO P - M - 

After a very smooth trip across the Mediterranean we 
landed this morning in Genoa, saying good bye to almost 
everyone. Clifford wanted to take a boat called the Cobra 
which lay just beside the Auguste Victoria, but I wanted to 
come by train, so we took our things to the station and then 
drove around Genoa and lunched at the Eden Palace Hotel, 
high up on one of the hills, with a lovely garden and such 
cleanliness and quiet. I longed to stay there. Clifford had 
played bridge with, a Mrs. Brown of Providence and a 
Mrs. Sewell of Pittsburgh, and Miss Bonsall and her sister, 
were staying there and Clifford sent them some flowers. Miss 
Crilly met her friend Miss Wheeler, daughter of General Joe 
Wheeler, and invited us to the Hotel Savoy to dinner, but we 
could not accept as we decided to leave on the noon train. 

I was fortunate enough to get into the same compartment 
with Mrs. Marion Story, whose husband is a cousin of Julian 
Story, a very interesting woman, and her friend, who I 
think was a Miss Story, but now a Mrs. Macdonald. They 
were most friendly and said they were sorry they had made 
my acquaintance so late and hoped they would meet me again. 
They go to Cannes next week. We had telegraphed here from 
Gibraltar a week ago for rooms but every one said we would 

have great difficulty to get in. I wanted to come here because 

44 8 



THE MEDITERRANEAN 



it is where Father and I stayed more than thirty years ago. 
We found the omnibus waiting and they had rooms for us all 
right, delightfully clean and comfortable at n frcs. each, not 
cheap, but it is the height of the season and carnival time. 
There is to be a procession on Sunday afternoon and the 
battle of flowers on Monday, which we are arranging to see. 
To-morrow we shall goto Monte Carlo to dine and spend the 
evening, so we are going to be very gay. We got our first 
mail this morning at Genoa and glad I was to hear from you 




GENOA 



all. There seems to be nothing exciting in your life. What a 
contrast to mineM was ideally happy going along the Riviera 
to-day and repeating my experience of many years ago, and 
all I regret is that you are not here to enjoy it with me. I 
cannot tell you how I have enjoyed all our land excursions. 
It is astonishing how much we have seen and accomplished, 
but it is a perfect whirl. Just think, German all the time on the 
ship and Portuguese at Madeira, Spanish atGibraltarand Gran- 
ada, French at Algiers, Arabic at Blidah, Italian at Genoa and 

French here, and think of all we have ahead of us. The ship part 
29 449 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

is the only trial but most of the people enjoy getting back to it. 
It has been very warm all day and the roses are in full 
bloom everywhere and violets and Narcissus and carnations 
out of doors. We could see them picking flowers, from the 
train, and such quantities of orange and lemon trees! It 
seems strange that the coldest place should have been 
Africa. Cliff is delighted with this Hotel. I found the letter 
from Mrs. Elliot asking me to stay with her in Rome; noth- 
ing could have been more friendly. The Pembertons from 




THE WATER FRONT, NICE 

New York are going to make the whole tour and are 
about the only people I care for, left on board. I am so tired, 
up at seven this morning and all the excitement of landing 
and luggage and custom houses, travelling all day and now it 
is eleven o'clock, so good bye and with much love and hoping 
you and Sam will not mope Your aff., M. D. R. 



Monte Carlo, 

Sunday, Feb. 22nd, 1903. 
Dear Father, 

I have just finished a light supper after losing last night 
and to-night together the large sum of #29, which I put down 
to profit and loss and experience. We landed at Genoa day 

450 



THE MEDITERRANEAN 

before yesterday and after a pleasant drive and lunch took a 
most unpleasant railroad trip of eight hours by which we 
missed a lot of beautiful scenery, which we could have seen 
from a large steamer, which makes the same trip. Nice is a 
very beautiful place, but we came up here for dinner at the 
Cafe Ciro last night, returning by the ten o'clock train. To- 
day we saw the Carnival procession and joined in a confetti 
fight. Mother was tired and decided to stay at the hotel, so 
I came up here alone and am returning on the same train as 
last night. We were much pleased at receiving the home mail. 
To-morrow we see the flower parade at Nice and sail Tuesday 
from Villefranche, the next railroad station Our hotel is 
exceedingly well run. With love, J. C. R. 

Hotel Gallia, Cannes, 
Mon. Feb., 23rd, 1903.- 
Dear Frank, 

Clifford and I took seats for the Bataille des Fleurs at 
Nice this afternoon and found it very beautiful and amusing. 
I never saw so many flowers in my life, for not only were hun- 
dreds of carriages decorated solidly all over with such flowers 
as violets, white lilacs, daisies, tea roses, pink roses and gilly 
flowers in pink and white, and yellow daffodils, for which we 
pay a dollar a dozen, but they had baskets full of bunches of 
flowers to throw at people. Each side of the street was filled 
with stands and all the people down in the stands had flowers 
and pelted each other mercilessly. It was really a unique 
spectacle. After it was mostly over we took the train for this 
place and had just time enough before dark to get a glimpse 
of this place; it is not so large as Nice and has one magnificent 
view, to the west, of high mountains jutting out into the sea. 
We saw the Margherita and the Nahma, N. Y. Y. C. in the 
harbor. This Hotel stands up high on the hill and is modern 
with steam heat and other American ideas. Our Hotel at 
Nice is more homelike and the most perfect cooking I ever 
tasted. We were to have come here yesterday to see the torch- 

451 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 




THE CARNIVAL, NICE 




VILLEFRANCHE 



452 



THE MEDITERRANEAN 

light parade, but were so used up after our Carnival experi- 
ences that we rested instead and dined at our Hotel next 
table but one to the Due d'Orleans. His wife had the most 
magnificent jewels I ever saw. I suppose she was dressed for 
the Veglione (the great Masked Ball). Were we not lucky 
to arrive here just in time for the Carnival? I don't remember 
whether I wrote you on Saturday, but I think it was Friday 
night. We went out to Monte Carlo Saturday afternoon with 
the young man and his bride that you played cards with at 
Hot Springs. We saw shoals of people and the gambling and 
dined at Ciro's, the swellest restaurant. Yesterday we had 
seats for the Carnival procession and had to wear wire masks 
and cover our hats and cloaks. It was a great sight; there 
were big floats much more artistic than anything you ever 
see at home and there were military bands of only bugles, which 
played in the most wonderful way, throwing the bugles up 
in line in turn in a way I never saw. The great square was 
thronged with people in dominos or fancy costumes of every 
color and all wore masks and hoods fitting tightly over. There 
was a continual rain of confetti (balls of lime) and every place 
was an inch deep with it. We are going to dine here and take 
the 8.40 train back to Nice. To-morrow we will start immedi- 
ately after lunch in a carriage with our luggage and drive to 
Villefranche and get on the ship which will sail at six p. m. 
for Sicily. This little stay on land is very expensive, but it is 
the last gaiety we will have. I must go to dinner, so good bye. 

With love, M. D. R. 

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 
Villefranche, Feb. 23rd, 1903. 
Dear Father, 

Yours No. 4 we found aboard today on our return to the 
ship. Many thanks! Mother has changed to a very nice 
stateroom but I have decided to stay where I am. Mother 
and I went to Cannes to dinner last evening. We hope to 
have smooth sea as it is like glass this afternoon. 

With love, J. C. R. 

453 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

After leaving Villefranche. 

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 

26th Feb. 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

I think I wrote you last from Nice or Cannes. We left 
there the next day, immediately after lunch, took a carriage 
and put all our luggage on it. As the last carnival frolic was 
going on we had to make a detour to avoid it. I shall always 
remember the trumpet music and the immense crowds all 
dancing at once in their gay colored dominos. We had a most 
beautiful ride to Villefranche, but while the warships in the 
harbor made a beautiful spectacle, I couldn't bear to look at 
this ship because I never feel the same on it. I needed to get 
on before the ship started as I wanted to see about my state- 
room. I could not stand the old one any longer because when 
it was rough I could not have fresh air. Now I have taken 
one on the next deck above and it is much quieter and I can 
have my port hole open all the time. 

I had a pain in my head yesterday, but spent all day on 
deck and in the afternoon we passed close to Ischia and then 
by Capri. It was hazy and the sunset was a wonderful rosy 
glow which threw out the outlines of Capri so that it was a 
thing of beauty to remember forever. They did not tell us 
that we would pass near Stromboli at midnight but those who 
were up at that time saw it in eruption. We were up early 
this morning and ready to get off at Syracuse, in little boats 
as usual. I wonder how many little boats I have been in since 
Feb. 3rd? Syracuse from the ship looked like the pictures 
in the Bible, of Jerusalem, dead grey stone and square outlines; 
as we landed we found a lovely walk of green trees, spring 
bloom and stone seats. There we hired a carriage and took the 
Murray program for one day in Syracuse, beginning with a drive 
of five miles out into a cultivated country with beautiful groves 
of orange trees to the great fortress of Euryalus built 800 B. C. 

There we met four Germans, one of them an old Pro- 
fessor, and they all spoke more or less Italian and as 

454 



THE , MEDITERRANEAN 

the guide spoke only Italian it was very nice to be with 
them. The walls were of great blocks of stone of Cyclopean 
proportions and the whole fort of immense size with battle- 
ments where men on horseback could go about and great 
passages through the rock. The whole population in time of 
siege would recede from one wall to another until finally they 




ENTRANCE TO THE AMPHITHEATRE, SYRACUSE 

were gathered into the Fortress itself. The palace of Diony- 
sius was above all in solid stone. The view of Mt. Aetna from 
here was colossal. It seemed to hang in the clouds. From 
there we came back to the Greek theatre. Just as I happened 
to look up I saw May Reeves standing in the door! I thought 
I was dreaming and I jumped up and sure enough it was she, 
with her uncle and Miss Tyson. They had arrived at Syracuse 
from Girgenti and saw our ship in the harbor and sent out an 

455 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

invitation to dine with them at the Villa Politi, but we didn't 
get it, and so they came on board. 

We sail at midnight and it is now about eleven, and they 
are just gone. I must finish so as to post this to-morrow 
morning at Malta. The Greek theatre was a magnificent ruin, 
an out of door theatre with seats cut out of solid rock and 




EAR OF DIONYSIUS, SYRACUSE 

immense. More interesting to me were the quarries and the 
Ear of Dionysius, about which I have read but never expected 
to see. It is cut out of solid rock and way up in the top is a 
little opening where Dionysius is supposed to have sat to 
listen to the talk of his victims in the prison below. The 
slightest sound can be heard perfectly in every part; the pic- 
tures give you no idea of it. A church near by was most 
interesting, as the oldest Christian church in Syracuse and has 

456 






THE MEDITERRANEAN 

incorporated an old Greek temple. In the crypt is where St. 
Paul preached three days and it is so intensely old and all of 
solid rock one cannot but be immensely impressed. Then we 
went into the catacombs, which are finer than those in Rome. 
It was first a place of burial and the tombs are thick and close, 
solid stone coffins and later were places of refuge. The first 
Bishop was martyred in the chapel where St. Paul preached. 
I think it would be interesting for you to borrow some guide 
books and read up, as we go along. We enjoyed buying 
bunches of fresh lemons and eating them, they are so much 
riper than those we get. 

We had a very bad lunch in the Grand Hotel and so 
after seeing the Cathedral (which is built around a mag- 
nificent temple in whose walls the great fluted columns 
with Doric tops still stand out) and the Fountain of Arethusa 
we concluded not to dine in the town but to go out on the ship. 
The Reeves are going on to Palermo, I believe, and up to 
Rome, and may possibly join this ship at Genoa and go home 
on it. Here at eleven I am writing and yet we are due at 
Malta early in the morning and I must get up early and be 
sightseeing all day. So good night. Clifford said he wrote 
you. Tell Sam he might write. I got your first letter to-day 
at Syracuse, so the other three arrived days ago. 

With love for you both. Aff'ly, M. D. R. 

Malta, 27th Feb. 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

We got off this morning at Malta, where there is a fine 
harbor, and where the same oriental effect continues as at 
Syracuse. It is one series of yellow stone walls, one above 
another, up to the tops of the different hills and islands. We 
had taken Cook tickets and found a long string of carriages 
awaiting us, and we were taken a long six mile drive to the 
Citto Vecchio, on top of a high hill, inclosed in fortified walls 
with a moat. The views were magnificent, and the oldest 
church in the town had a crypt connecting with the catacombs, 
where St. Paul once stayed, and of course that made it interest- 

457 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

ing. The main streets and the Governor's Palace and Ar- 
mory and the great church of St. John are inside of two walls 
and two moats. I forgot to say that we visited the Governor's 
summer palace in the country, walking through the Public 
Gardens and as we were going out the Governor, Lord Gren- 
fell, passed us in a fine turnout and his uniform looked more 
like that of a German officer than an Englishman. 

The women wear a sort of calash on the head, a 
wired arrangement which is a combination of mantle 
and bonnet and is very picturesque — they, the women, 
are dark and pale, with straight features. All the shops 
are like in Algiers, sort of caves, that is, all the light 




MALTA FROM THE SEA 



comes from the front and you look in and see a large 
dark room with beds and chests of drawers and the poorer 
people seem to cook and keep house on the pavement. They 
are dirty and terrible beggars. We were taken to an Italian 
restaurant, where it was impossible to eat the food, so after 
we had driven round the town and seen the gorgeous view 
from the highest point where there was a garden, our party, 
some Pawtucket and New York people, went to an English tea 
house and had tea and hot muffins and enjoyed them largely. 
The streets are so picturesque, frequently so steep as 
to be all steps, looking down one saw the sea and harbor 
at the end, with always the contrast between the stone and 

458 



THE MEDITERRANEAN 

the blue. One never sees anything but stone, not a vestige of 
wood. When we came out on the ship at six we found the 
Promenade deck crowded with merchants who had come out 
from the town. They will sell things for almost any price 
rather than take them away. I got a piece of Maltese lace 
as a souvenir. Mr Pemberton took me to see his rooms. On 
account of his wife being a poor sailor and not strong he had 
a large room at the back of the ship on the Promenade deck 
partitioned off with temporary partitions and had bells put 




MALTA 

in and they have their own steward and a brass bed, and he 
also stipulated that the band should not play at that end. 
I have slept so much better since I changed my stateroom and 
am sure it was wise. 

It is great fun getting off on land, but two hard days in 
succession are almost too fatiguing. To-morrow I must man- 
age to pack my trunk for Athens for day after to-morrow we 
land at Nauplia. Fortunately I have taken Cook tickets only 
for the Railway trip to Athens and propose to manage alone 

459 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

at Athens, as in a city like that we can get along better. I 
think we did much more at Syracuse by ourselves than today. 
Still there are times when you need Cook, for special trains, 
&c. I am so tired I must stop. I am only happy on shore. 
I wish I could write better letters, but I have to write most 
of them when either very tired or sea sick. 

With much love, and hoping you are both well, 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

P. S. I must add a few words this morning to tell you of the 
wonderful weather. Altho we are crossing the Adriatic and 
might expect a counter current the sea is like glass. I thought 
we must be at anchor until I looked out of the port hole. We 
have not had a single day of rain since arriving at Madeira. 
Mr. Pemberton says every day that it is a wonderful voyage. 
I could not wear a wrap yesterday at Malta and have all my 
summer clothing on. I cannot get over my regret that you 
did not come. It is one continuous spree. Our train leaves 
Nauplia for Argos and Mycenae at 8.35 tomorrow and we 
come back to the steamer at Kalamaki. 

After Villefranche. 

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 

Feb. 28th, 1903. 
Dear Father, 

We certainly have been lucky in having good weather, but 
in spite of that fact I have a bad cold. We left Villefranche 
Tuesday afternoon after a beautiful drive from Nice and 
landed at Syracuse which was most interesting. In the morn- 
ing we got a good carriage and pair of horses and with the 
Pierces went out to the fort and palace of Dionysius the 
Tyrant. It was a beautiful Springlike drive. Then we visited 
his prison called his ear. He sat in the upper end and the 
slightest whisper from the wretches below he could hear. We 
visited the remains of the Greek theatre, the Roman Amphi- 
theatre and the old Christian church, where Paul preached 

460 



THE MEDITERRANEAN 

for three days, and the catacombs. After a poor lunch we 
went around the city and saw the Cathedral, which has built 
in its walls the columns of the ancient Temple of Minerva. 
Malta is a very fine harbor and is very thickly populated. 
Hope you and Sam are having a good time. 

With love, J. C. R. 

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, March i, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

The first day of Spring and although there was snow on 
the mountains it was as warm as May. It has been a very 
amusing and interesting day. We made an early start to take 




TYRYNS, GREECE 

the 8.35 train at Nauplia. The scene was beautiful as we 
rowed in little boats from the ship to land. High snow moun- 
tains in the distance and a clear crisp atmosphere, and a very 
precipitous rock, an Acropolis, immediately behind the town, 
which serves as a general prison for all Greece. The buglers 
were blowing the Assembly call and it was very still on the 

water. We were only a short time in the train when we got 

461 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

out and walked up to the Acropolis at Tyryns where the great 
Cyclopean walls were built two thousand years before Christ, 
It was the birth place of Hercules and near by he slew the 
Hydra-headed Snake. At Tyryns the walls are of unhewn 
stones of prodigious size and the many passage ways were 
vaulted by approaching the horizontal rows of stones a little 
nearer to each other until they met at the top making a high 
pointed arch. All this was destroyed 446 Before Christ. 

The whole country is desolate looking but very beautiful. 
There were many flocks of sheep and the shepherds with their 




THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER, ATHENS 

short white ruffled skirts and peculiar woolen coats all helped to 
make a memorable day. We next stopped at Mycenae, which 
was Agamemnon's city and a great and rich city. Now there 
exists only what Dr. Schlieman has excavated, namely the 
palace of Agamemnon, on the top of a very high hill, which 
we reached by open carriages and funny painted carts, the 
drivers in all sorts of costumes. There, after seeing more 
cyclopean walls, but this time of hewn stones and the treasure 
vaults, where Dr. Schlieman found 25,000 dollars worth of 
treasure, which we will see in Athens, we had our lunch. The 

462 



THE MEDITERRANEAN 

view and the air were glorious. We had been given boxes of 
lunch from the ship and a number of the stewards were sent 
along with napkins and glasses. I took my tea basket and 
made tea on the historic place and we had wine and mineral 
water and sandwiches and hard boiled eggs and plenty of 
oranges. It was delightful! A little distance from there on 
our return we saw the most wonderful of all, the tomb of 
Agamemnon, a circular vault coming to a sharp point 60 feet 
high and made of colossal stones, without anything to hold 
them together. There was a square entrance, with one enor- 




THE TEMPLE OF THESEUS, ATHENS 



mous stone across which is large beyond belief. On our way 
back to Kalamaki we came over a high pass and in one town 
saw peasants in costume dancing and old Corinth (the Acrop- 
olis) up on the hill and then new Corinth and along the bay, 
where Paul must often have been during his 18 months in 
Corinth, then came the Isthmus and the new canal, which 
gives the effect of being sliced right down through yellow rock 
and is very strange. I am so dead tired I must stop, so good 
bye, with much love. Your aff., M. D. R. 



463 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Hotel Grande Bretagne, Athenes. 

Tues., March 3rd, 1903. 
Dear Father, 

To-day is rainy but we spent nevertheless the morning at 
the Acropolis. At two o'clock we start again and go to the 
museums. In a drive yesterday afternoon I saw the Uni- 
versity buildings, which are of white marble and carvings 
covered with gold sheets. The whole is in the best Greek 
style and very beautiful. The hotel is good. It looks now 
as if we would not be allowed to go to Damascus as there is 
cholera there and the ship would be quarantined; if it breaks 
out at Jerusalem we will go to Alexandria and have time to 
go up the Nile. I hope you and Sam are well and having a 
good time. With love, J. C. R. 

From Greece — aboard Auguste Victoria. 

March 4th, 1903 
Dear Frank, 

I wonder if you remember that to-morrow is the thirtieth 

anniversary of our wedding day. I think it is the first time 

we have been separated at that date. I hope it will find you 

well. We have just sailed frorA the Piraeus and it is blowing 

up cold and getting rough, so I may not be able to do much 

writing. We left Kalamaki Monday morning early and took 

the train for Corinth and went in chariots (the real name for 

the two-wheeled carts they use), to old Corinth, where there 

are some beautiful ruins, and then we took donkeys, mules 

and horses to go up the Acropolis, which is 1700 ft. above and 

has the finest view in Greece. I struck a mule that turned 

out to be lame and developed a great desire to get rid of me, 

so that before we got to the top I jumped off in a great fright 

when he turned on the edge of a fearful precipice and gave 

a snort of fright or something else. I had a long climb to the 

top and then went all the way back to old Corinth on foot 

and it is the hardest jaunt I ever undertook. We got into a 

car with Mrs. S and Miss S and Mr. and Mrs. F, all very nice 

464 



THE MEDITERRANEAN 

intelligent people, and we had great fun. We started in the 
chariots with a man in full Greek costume playing on a pipe, 
which sounded exactly like a bag pipe. The atmosphere was 
perfect and it was a joy to live, the sky and sea as blue as a 
sapphire and when the women got on the donkeys astride it 
was a sight to see. We got into Athens just before dark and 
were glad to find a beautiful hotel with a nice large reading 
and writing room and a fire. Clifford had sent our letters and 
cards to the Jacksons* who were living in the Hotel and they 
asked us to dine with them the next evening. 

The next day, yesterday, we had our first rain, spring 
showers, and we took a carriage and went first to the Acropolis 
in the rain and it was very beautiful even then, and explored 
the Museum In the afternoon it cleared and we visited all 
the ruins and ended at the Acropolis again and had a fairly good 
view and the last thing stopped at the Stadium, where they have 
the Olympic games. A millionaire gave the money to put new 
white marble seats over the old ones and as it holds 50,000 
people you can imagine the size of it, the shape is that of an 
ellipse. In the National Museum we found the treasures Dr. 
Schlieman had found at Mycenae and enjoyed them doubly. 
When I got back I found an enormous bunch of double violets 
from Mrs. Jackson, which I carried to the dinner and found 
the captain of our ship was the other guest. I think I must 
stop as it is getting very rough. 

Thursday. Mother is not feeling well and asks me to 
finish, so it can be posted when we arrive at 5 p. m. 
Smoother now and Mother feels better. We probably cannot 
land till 9 to-morrow morning. Expect to find mail. We shall 
probably live on the boat and not stay at the Hotel ashore 
as they say the town is very dirty. Cold and rainy this 
morning. Have passed the Dardanelles and are in the sea of 
Marmora. 

With love, J. C. R. 

* Mr. Jackson was the American Minister to Greece. 
30 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

Pera-Palace, Constantinople. 

March 7, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

I came out from dinner very tired after a hard day's work 
in a cold misty rain and stopped to talk with Mr. and Mrs. 
Fowler of New York, perfectly charming people, who know 
Alex, van Rensselaer and loads of Philadelphians we know, 
and now it is very late for me to write any detailed account 
of what we have seen in the last two days, in spite of weather. 
We arrived before Constantinople in a howling wind and cold 
rain at five o'clock. Fowlers got off, but Clifford persuaded me 
to stay on the boat and altho we had taken Cook for two days, 
we did not come to the Hotel until last evening. To our de- 
light we found it heated by steam heat, as we were chilled 
through from riding about in carriages all day. It was too 
bad to have two days of bad weather as we have not been 
able to see an outline and this place needs sunlight and color 
to bring out its beauties. We first drove for an hour through 
the worst filth I ever saw, regular bogs of mud and sewage 
sometimes a foot deep, up to the Yildiz Kiosk to see the Sultan 
go to church, and it was a great sight. Cliff and Mrs. E, Miss 
S., a Swedish man and myself, and we three women were per- 
mitted to cling to an iron railing on top of a stone walk right 
among the soldiers who lined every approach to the Mosque. 

There we saw everything, the most gorgeous military and 

466 



CONSTANTINOPLE,, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

civil uniforms and thousands of soldiers The Fowlers had 
applied to our minister and were on the Sultan's terrace, but 
they had to give up their umbrellas and were pushed about. 
After two lines of officials from the Palace had passed into the 
Mosque there was a hush and the Sultan's carriage appeared, 
a sort of victoria, then all the soldiers crouched down and 
motioned us to do the same and they seemed to cross them- 
selves, and then I heard a queer quavering voice way up some- 
where and looking up saw the Muezzin on the Minaret and 
he was calling to prayer, and then they all gave a great shout 
three times and the Sultan drove rapidly by into the Mosque. 
I got a good look at him. The trumpet music was fine before 
all this and we admired the appearance of the troops. They 
are big men and strange to say, not many are dark. The 
horses are fine, also, and well cared for. All animals here 
look well cared for and the Turks seem to be much more 
gentle and kind towards them than the Greeks or Spaniards 
and Italians, but it is impossible to describe the general 
dilapidation. I think that after the Turks came in here, when 
they conquered Constantine, that they settled down amid the 
ruins and have never repaved anything since. The ordinary 
streets here are worse than the worst roads around St. Louis 
after a thaw, and there is no drainage and they throw all 
refuse into the streets, and leave the dogs to clean it up at 
night; as a consequence the dogs fight and bark all night long. 
I have bought some good photos, which will give you an idea 
of the place. Last eve there was a dance after the dinner was 
over, and I danced. We have done a lot to-day, three mosques 
and the white palace along the Bosphorus and the Museum 
and Treasury and went into the Bazaars (10 miles of streets 
covered). Everywhere we go the streets and squares are 
filled with sheep (much larger and finer looking than ours) 
even the steps of the mosques are covered with them, and on 
Monday they will be slaughtered and every person in Con- 
stantinople will have meat to eat. The Sultan begins it at 

467 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

5 a. m., and as far as I can learn the slaughtering is done in 
the street and it will be a dreadful sight. We are going on 
board Sunday night as if it is fair the ship will sail up the 
Bosphorus to the Black Sea at 9 a. m. and returning leaves 
here at noon. I am going with the Fowlers to the American 
College for Girls in Scutari tomorrow forenoon for service and 
at 7 p. m. the mosques are all to be illuminated. 

With love to all, M. D. R 



Pera-Palace, Constantinople, 
March 7th, 1903. 
Dear Father 

We arrived here on the afternoon of day before yesterday 
in a hard rain with a very cold wind blowing and so did not 







YILDIZ KIOSK, THE ARRIVAL OF THE SULTAN 

land till the next day. The weather has remained just as bad, 

but we have spent the two days ashore notwithstanding. 

468 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

The first morning we saw the Sultan on his way to mosque 
with a lot of soldiers all armed with out of date rifles. In the 
afternoon saw a mosque which was once the oldest Christian 
church This morning we went to two mosques, large ones, 
and the Sultan's treasury, which I thought very interesting. 
There was a throne of gold set with pearls, rubies and emer- 
alds After lunch we went to the last Sultan's palace on the 
Bosphorus. A beautiful building with a beautiful view, but 
ruined by bad interior decorations and furniture. Then 
another mosque and the bazaars. To-morrow, Sunday, Mother 
is going with Mr. and Mrs. Fowler of N. Y. to some Presby- 
terian school and I am going to the bazaars, meeting Mother 
at lunch. In the evening the mosques are to be illuminated 
as the Turkish Easter is at hand and we wish to go to a mosque 
at night. We go aboard again late to-morrow night and sail 
up the Bosphorus and back Monday morning and sail at noon 
for Beyrout the port of Baalbec and Damascus. 

With love to you and Sam. Cliff. 

Constantinople, Aboard Auguste Victoria. 

8th March, 1903. 

Dear Frank, 

When we came on board ship at six o'clock we found your 

seventh letter and are glad that you are going out a little. 

This morning, Sunday, Mr. and Mrs. Fowler and myself 

went over to Scutari to the American college, as Miss Patrick 

had written asking me to come and the Fowlers had letters 

to her. The road was so fearful I expected to end my life 

then and there, but we arrived safely and they seemed much 

pleased to see us, showed us the college and then we attended 

service. After lunch we went to some of the shops, but they 

were most y closed as they were preparing for the Feast of 

Beiram, and as we came out to the ship the cannons were 

booming the opening of the Feast. Tomorrow morning at 5 

469 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD / 

they slaughter the sheep. The streets have been full of them 
for days and the rich are supposed to give them to the poor. 
The Sultan has bought two thousand to present to the poor. 
I wouldn't have been in the city to-morrow morning for any- 
thing; the streets will be a terrible sight. We met hundreds 
with sheep on their backs with their forelegs around their 
necks and looking so pathetic. We also went to-day into the 
place where the Sultan buys his Loukoum or "Turkish De- 
light." They had big wood fires in the dark back of the shop 
and were stirring big cauldrons, but it was cleanly enough and 
lots of French and Germans came in to buy candy. When we 
were at the Treasury yesterday we were treated by the Sul- 
tan's orders to Rose conserve and coffee. To-day the Sultan 
sent on board this ship a giant bouquet of camellias and azaleas 
to the ladies and some "loukoum" and it was passed round 
at dinner. 

Coming out to-night the outlines of the mosques were 
beautiful, although there were still the dark heavy clouds. 
It was gay at dinner to-night, every one seemed to be glad to 
get away from Constantinople's dirt and Turks. To-morrow 
at ten we start for the Black Sea and then returning sail for 
Beyrout at one o'clock. Mr. M. thinks I will have brain fever; 
I work so hard between seeing, reading up and writing. There 
was a nurse, who had been with Weir Mitchell and had met 
Joe, at the College at Scutari and that is how they happened 
to write to me. I hope all understand that until I can stop 
long enough somewhere I cannot write more than I do. I 
am now writing in a small room with Mrs. E. singing La Tosca, 
and lots of people talking. The decks are covered with rugs 
and things for sale, and it is very cold so we are glad to stay 
in and keep warm. 

I am so tired and must go to bed. So hoping you 

are all well and happy, and with love to all the family 

and friends. 

Youraff., M. D. R. 

470 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY, LAND AND EGYPT 

On Board after leaving Constantinople. 

March nth, 1903.: , 
Dear Frank and Sam, 

We came out from Constantinople Monday at one o'clock 
after a pleasant but very cold run up through the Bosphorus. 
The German Ambassador and his wife, Baron Marshall von 
Bieberstein, or something like that, were on board for the 
trip, but no one met them but the German officers. She was 
a perfect beauty. That evening at dinner we had quite a 
surprise — first large bouquets were passed around that the 
Sultan had sent on board and then each lady was presented 
with a box of sweets and each man with a box of cigarettes. 
The Sultan only does this for the passengers of the Auguste 
Victoria and yet they say that from the moment we landed we 
were shadowed constantly by detectives, though we were 
not conscious of it, and I imagine we all spoke as freely as 
we chose of the dreadful state of affairs. I remember say- 
ing in a photograph shop that if I were the Sultan I would 
sell the magnificent throne that was stolen from Persia 
and clean and pave the streets. However I was not put 
in prison for it. 

Last evening at dinner five people had birthday parties and 
champagne. Mine comes tomorrow, March 12th (my 57th), 
and a young Swede has his to-day. At last the weather is fine 
— it is sunny and very warm, but they tell us to prepare for 
cold at Damascus as the Lebanon Mts. are covered with snow. 
We are sitting on deck without wraps just as we would be in 
the house and are seeing the West coast of Cyprus now at 
3 p. m. In the night we passed the island of Rhodes and the 
night before when we came out of the Dardanelles we were 
close to the plains of Troy. It is hard to realize where we 
are. We land at Bey rout early to-morrow morning and take 
an early and special train to Baalbec, where we spend the first 
night and then on to Damascus. I will write you from there. 
I don't know whether I wrote you that the Sultan did not 
have the Treasury opened for any of the steamers but the 

471 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Auguste Victoria, and after we had seen it we were served 

with coffee and rose conserve by his orders. 

I regret every day, more, that you didn't come along. 

You would have found agreeable companions among the men, 

especially Mr. Fowler. He and his wife and Mrs. Stryker 

and a Miss Stevenson, Clifford and myself have arranged 

with Cook to be together on this trip and Jerusalem. I am 

fortunate in feeling better than I have at all and feel so rested 

to-day after two good nights on the ship. It seems so strange 

that you have not yet had a line from us and I can imagine 

the time seems long. Probably I shall find letters at Beyrout 

to-morrow morning saying you have our first letters. I have 

written constantly so you must get letters very frequently. 

Hoping you are all well, 

Your aff, M. D. R. 

Damascus Palace Hotel, Damascus. 
March 13th, 1903 
Dear Frank, 

Here we are in a Damascus Hotel, separated from some of 
our party, as they were sent to Cooks' Hotel and we came 
here. Mr. and Mrs. Fowler and I are in a corridor with oil 
lamps for light; we have had our Turkish coffee and will go 
to bed early as we are tired after a hard day's trip. I wonder 
if I wrote you that on Sunday last we three went to Scutari 
to service at the Woman's College, which is the counterpart 
of the Roberts College in Constantinople. Miss Patrick was 
delighted to see us and gave us tea and home sponge cake and 
after having us shown all over the College took us to church, 
where she gave a very good discourse to the pupils in English 
and wore her cap and gown. They wanted us to stay to dinner, 
but we could not spare the time. 

It was very rough yesterday, Thursday morning, as 

we anchored at Beyrout and the getting into the small 

boats was most amusing and exciting. One man got 

one leg into the water as he was awkward about getting 

472 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

in. You would be surprised to see how skillfully I get 
in and out and I really enjoy it. This time as the little 
boat came up on a wave a big Arab seized me around the waist 
and plumped me into the boat before I could utter a word of 
protest. It was so rough that some people were actively sea- 
sick before getting to the shore. A Cooks' party is always 
rushing to get ahead and so we made a dash for the train and 
made ourselves comfortable. Cook divided us into two sec- 




THE TRAIN TO DAMASCUS 



tions, Section I was to go to Baalbec and Section 2 direct to 
Damascus. The train was of 1st class carriages and most com- 
fortable and part of the way is rack and pinion and very well 
built. We began to climb the Lebanon Mountains at once and 
never in my life have I seen such a view as unfolded before 
us The earth was crimson and all shades of purplish pink, 
and the blue Mediterranean back of it and the grey and yellow 
rock of the mountains made a color effect in landscape I shall 
never forget. I have seen colored views of Syria, which I 

473 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

supposed were quite unnatural, but. now I know they are true 

to life. ''...,. ; ;:. 

Also we saw our first camel trains, and the Arab head 
dress The men wear a wrapper-like gown and belt and a 
large handkerchief held on the head by two big black cords, 
taking the place of a fez — a most picturesque head dress and 
just like the Bible pictures. 




BEYROUT, THE PORT OF DAMASCUS 



Here we see the people seated along the rivers and others 
about sitting on the house-tops and looking afar off. The 
villages are all built one story high, with stone or adobe 
blocks and have flat roofs, some with grass and as the train 
goes by we see a man standing on his roof looking off, always 
in blue and red gowns or wide Bagdad stripes. 

We climbed to the highest part of the Lebanon Mts. 
and up into the snow region, where we found it bitter 
cold and descending came in view of the most fertile plain 

474 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

in Syria with the Anti-Lebanon Mts. on the further s'de 
and Mt. Hermon covered with snow, a magnificent spec- 
tacle We lunched at Rayak, not too well, and then took 
a: branch road across the plain and up the hills again, arriv- 
ing at Baalbec at 4.30 p. m. We went out at once, after 
getting our rooms, as it was very clear and sunny, and went 
all over the ruins of the Temple of Jupiter and of the Sun, 
and were overwhelmed with the colossal grandeur of it all, 




THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN, BAALBEC 



beside which the ruins even of Athens seem tame. There were 
the largest Cyclopean or early Greek stones we have seen 
yet and in the quarry nearby was a block cut partly out 68 
feet long by 13 feet thick, and square. Imagine all that, with 
a background of snow mountains and a clear luminous atmos- 
phere at sunset when there was a yellow light on the great 
columns. It was quite easy to imagine how the great temple 
of Jupiter looked by considering the work of the Arabs who 
filled up the great portals of the front portico with stone to 
serve as a fortification, as now existent and putting up the 

475 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

columns in their places which are now strewn around in every 
direction and the statues in their niches and the exquisite 
carvings on the pediments and the lintels and around the 
great doors and then thinking if you stood at the front por- 
tico and looked through the three great courts with water in 
a basin n each with marble enclosure carved exquisitely and 
surrounded by the great roofed porticos where the most 
florid carving decorated the capitals of the columns and the 
roofs and lintels and all on a gigantic plan, the human mind 
almost fails to comprehend it. 

The moonlight was glorious that night and Mr. Fow- 
ler and Clifford went out to view the temples again and 
drifted into an Arab cafe where they got most delicious 
coffee. Clifford was really enthusiastic about Baalbec and 
was up and out early this morning to see it again It 
was too bitter cold for us women to go out last night 
and too difficult walking also. The Hotel is Cooks' and all 
of stone and built so differently from any we have. It was so 
high we went up two flgihts to get to the second floor and 
where most of the space was occupied by an open room with 
the bedrooms opening into it and down stairs the tables 
were spread in the same open space. It was my birthday and 
Mr. Fowler insisted upon having champagne and we had one 
candle in an empty champagne bottle for decoration and had 
lots of fun and then sat in Mrs. F's room and selected photos 
from a sample book 

Some of the rooms had little stoves, but mine had 
none and you can't imagine the cold, with stone floors. 
Fortunately I had my hot water bag and so was able to 
have my bed warm. I was going to have a brazier in the 
room, when Clifford protested and said it was dangerous. 
It proved a lucky thing I did not as 22 people were 
asphyxiated in the night, so much so they fell uncon- 
scious on the floor, men as well as women. However they 
recovered quickly. One woman shrieked fearfully. Mr. 

Fowler heard the screams and half awake thought they were 

476 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

murdering the Christians again as in i860. The silence 
in such a place is most impressive and I enjoyed it. This 
morning we had a long wait at the station as our train was 
delayed because the Governor of the Province was on it, and 
the whole town turned out. Veiled Moslem women and men 
in the most picturesque costumes and women carrying chil- 
dren astride the shoulder and all reminding one of the Bible 
pictures. Our ride from the lunch place Rayak, where Noah is 
reputed to be buried, was through wonderful mountain gorges 
and as we got near here we saw great orchards of fruit trees 
and rushing brooks and gardens. Of course the trees are only 
just budding out and it is a pity it is not three weeks later. 
The life in the streets here is most interesting and quite differ- 
ent from anything we have seen. Crowds watched us buy 
our photographs and followed us along the street and the 
women stood still to look at us. I must cut this short as I 
must get up at seven in order to be ready for Cook at nine, 
so with much love, and hoping to hear from you soon, 

Your aif., 

M. D. R. 

Damascus Palace Hotel, Damascus. 

15th March, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

Our second day and I take a few minutes after lunch and 
before going out to write you. We spent yesterday under 
Cooks' tuition going about in carriages seeing the sights, the 
grand Mosque, the tomb of Saladin and the window where 
St. Paul was let down from the house on the wall and the 
home of Ananias and Judas and Naaman. There are few 
things to see, apart from the life in the streets, and in 
the Bazaars, which are merely covered streets. Yesterday 
was the last feast day and the streets were crowded with peo- 
ple and carriages and camels and donkeys, and it is a constant 
panorama — Persians, Syrians, Turks, Arabs, &c, in their dif- 
ferent costumes. 

477 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

The Bavada river rushes ; through and they make a great 
fuss over it, but it is not much as a river. The beauty of 
Damascus lies in its position in a fertile plain with the most 
beautiful mountains as a frame. We went up on the terrace 
(house top) last eve and the panorama was glorious. The 
exquisite purplish tints of the Mountains and the warm 
ecru of the houses and walls, with cypress trees and minarets 




A GATE IN DAMASCUS 



relieving the monotony of color, apricot and other fruit trees 
in full bloom and the evergreen, orange and lemon trees and 
down under a canopy the faithful saying their prayers, and 
camels going by, and donkeys, and now and then a dervish 
with high stove pipe hat without a brim. 

Yesterday we were taken to see a Jewish house and then 
a Christian one. Both were entered by very small doors in a 
common wall from a street not over 15 feet wide, first came a 

478 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

large court yard paved with marble inlaid pavement with 
orange and lemon trees; from that we entered a very fine hall 
with fountain at one end, magnificently carved marble, and 
the other half raised about 2 feet above and intended to be 
covered with rugs and used as a summer room. The walls 
were all marble, carved in some places into trees and leaves 
fully 1 8 inches deep. I don't suppose there is anything in 
New York to compare with it in costliness. On going out 
in the street we met a Jewish procession carrying an infant. 
Two young girls were dressed like bridesmaids and a very 
gorgeous cloth was thrown over the infant who was carried 
on a cushion. 

The Christian house was roomy but had none of the elegance 
of the other. To-day we went first to the English church where 
there were a few of our ship's party and then we went through 
the Bazaars. There is a man named Asfar and we call him 
"so far and no farther," where we found some attractive 
things. The crowds follow us and look at us in astonishment 
and we have a hard time to avoid camels and donkeys and 
carriages. We were so tired when we got through bargaining 
that we went to a cafe beside a rushing stream and had coffee, 
while Clifford, with a fez on, smoked the long water pipe of the 
country and watched the long processions of people returning 
evidently from the country. We have had a very amusing 
day and will never forget it. How I wish you could have 
seen it all. There are more men in our Ship's company who 
are older than you, than there are younger. We get no rest 
from now to Cairo and rather dread the discomforts of Jeru- 
salem — we have only two short nights on board ship, one to 
Jaffa and another to Cairo. It is a strange sight to see the 
women in their black costumes and veils, squatting along the 
edge of the rivers. I must go to bed as we must rise at six. 
We are going to the housetop to see the city by moonlight 
en route to bed. Goodbye and with love to all and remem- 
brances to the girls in the house. 

Aff'ly, M. D. R. 

479 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Damascus Palace Hotel, Damascus. 

15th March, 1903. 
Dear Father, 

We have been with the Fowlers all the time and they are 
very nice indeed. Mr. F. reminds me very forcibly of Mr. 
Godfrey. He and I, at Baalbec, went out at night and visited 
an Arab coffee house and had coffee with about 40 villainous 
looking Arabs. To-day we each puffed a nargileh at a coffee 
house here. At Baalbec the ruins were splendid and far out- 
classed those at Athens. We all wish we had three or four 
days to rest in aboard ship but, alas, we only reach it to-morrow 
night at Beyrout to leave it the next morning at Jaffa for 
Jerusalem. Then again we have no time for rest between 
Jerusalem and Cairo. We are all pretty well sunburned, as 
the country here is high and dry like Colorado with strong 
sunlight and a reflected glare from the yellow sand. The 
mountains are bare of trees and resemble strongly certain 
parts of the foothills of the Rockies. We hope to find iots of 
mail at Cairo when we get there. 

With love, J. C. R. 

Grand New Hotel, Jerusalem. 

March 21st, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

Each day I expected to write you at least a few words, but 
I have worked so hard that I hardly had sense enough to get 
to bed. This is our last day here as to-morrow we take the 
train at seven o'clock for Joppa. We have just had tea in the 
drawing room, when the German General I wrote you about 
as being on the Auguste Victoria with a number of officers of 
the Garde du Corps, Berlin, came in. I had not been intro- 
duced before and I was glad to meet him — of course asked 
him first if he knew Gen. von Camerer, and of course he did, 
"and then I asked about the Adelmanns and he said, "You 
know Heinrich?" — and he was so surprised and he knows all 

our friends and the von Wellwarths, that Clifford and I visited 

480 

m 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

near Hohenstadt, are his relations. I hope now we may meet 
Count Linar and Baron Wangenheim, who are his friends. 
He knows Baron von Briisselle at Schaubeck, also. 

This is the second week of hard work. As we left the 
ship Tuesday morning we formed a party of eight so 
we could have a guide to ourselves, and we just filled 




ON THE WAY TO JERUSALEM 

two carriages. Mr. and Mrs. Fowler, Mrs. Ervin and 
Miss Smith, Mrs. Stryker and Miss Stevenson, beside 
Clifford and myself. The water was very smooth at 
Joppa, a very unusual thing, and we made the landing 
without the least trouble. We had such fun at Beyrout 
where it was quite rough, when Mr. Fowler, who is a 
very big man, and myself were lifted bodily by the boatmen 
31 481 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and put into the boat. Joppa was as filthy as every other 
city under Turkish dominion, but interesting and we were 
surprised with a good American "toot" from the Baldwin 
locomotive. We crossed the Plain of Sharon and were inter- 
ested in the mud villages, where each house had an enclosing 
wall of the same material and the roofs were of turf so the 
effect was as if the town had grown and not been made. While 
these must be very uncomfortable they are most picturesque; 
soon after we began to climb the hills of Judea and four hours 
brought us to Jerusalem. Our first sight was the Tower of 




VIEW OF JOPPA 

David, from which he saw Bethsheba, the wife of his General, 
and is now a fortress occupied by Turkish soldiers and has a 
moat all around. 

We came up to the Joppa Gate and into this Hotel 
just inside the Gate This fortress was David's palace 
and on the top of Mt. Zion. The city seems to consist 
of hills and valleys and the Temple was on Mt. Moriah. 
After lunch we started right off to the "Holy Sepulchre." 
This consists of a group of churches, the Greek Catholic, 
Roman, Armenian, Coptic and Abyssinian, around the spot 
where tradition says Christ was buried. At first one is so 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

overwhelmed with the feeling of seeing the actual spot of 
Christ's sufferings and burial that one longs to join the throngs 
of pilgrims from every nation who are prostrating themselves 
before the "Stone of Unction" and kissing it. To-day we 
went to see the Greek Patriarch come in a triumphal proces- 
sion to the Greek church and it was a magnificent sight. We 




THE GATE, JOPPA 

went in a high gallery where there were lots of women of all 
nationalities. The floor of the church was thronged and the 
priests and the patriarch were magnificent with solitaire 
jewels, the latter blessed the people like the Pope. 

The second morning we drove out to Bethlehem, where 
things are more unchanged than in Jerusalem. In the church of 
the Nativity they show a manger as the one where Christ was 

483 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

born. The city walls dating from the eighth century are so 
picturesque. The country is very picturesque and lovely with 
wild flowers, some of which I have bought seeds of and hope 
to raise them at Jamestown, and the walled roads climb up 
and down and wind around the hills. We love this place and 
feel sorry to go, as we would like to drive about the outlying 




A STREET IN JERUSALEM 

country at our leisure. That afternoon we went to see the 

Mosque of Omar, on the site of Solomon's Temple through which 

the top of Mt. Moriah pierces. This rock, which is protected 

by a railing, is where Abraham is supposed to have offered Isaac 

in sacrifice and is very sacred to Jews and Christians. On the 

ruins of the temple was a Roman temple. One wishes it 

484 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

could all be excavated in the hope of seeing how it all used 
to be. I cannot possibly describe all the things we have seen 
and wish you would borrow a Syria and Palestine Murray 
and read about it. We drove afterwards to the Mt. of Olives, 
but it began to rain and we had no view. 

The next day we started in three carriages for a two-days' 
excursion to Jericho, the Dead Sea and the Jordan ; we were 
accompanied by a wicked-looking Bedouin on horseback with a 
gun slung over his shoulder and a sword by his side and looking 
exactly like one of Schreyer's pictures, and he turned out to be 
an ex-brigand now employed in recent years as guard by the 
Government. He escorted us all the way to the Dead Sea and 
back and Cook had to pay him two francs for each person. 
Our drivers were also armed but our worst dangers I should 
say were from the road itself. Before the German Emperor 
came here it was only possible to make the trip on horseback 
and it is as bad as possible. We found quite a decent Hotel 
at Jericho passing on the way a monastery on the spot where 
Elijah was fed by the ravens and the hill where Christ fasted 
for forty days and was tempted of the Devil, and Mt. Nebo 
in the distance, where Moses first saw the Promised Land, 
and the wilderness full of pelicans. Old Jericho was called 
the City of Palms and now there is not one to be seen. A 
dreadfully dangerous ride brought us to the Dead Sea, and 
Clifford took a swim but it stung his eyes badly. Sodom and 
Gomorrah are supposed to have been on the site of the Dead 
Sea and nothing grows and not a bird or a fish. I was ter- 
ribly frightened at the bad roads and the fording of streams. 
It was a very sharp transition of climate from the cold of 
Jerusalem to the heat of Jericho. We went down 3500 feet 
and it was so warm that we sat out without wraps all even- 
ing. I forgot to say we came back from the Dead Sea to the 
Jordan, which is only a creek, and were shown the spot where 
Christ was baptized and we filled our cans with Jordan water. 
That night we slept warm for the first time on land since Nice 
and started back early the next morning and visited Bethany 

485 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

and saw the house of Mary and Martha. We also had a cold 
lunch at the Apostles Fountain, in the tent which Cook 
arranged for the German Emperor. I must stop now to pack 
and get ready to arise at five o'clock to-morrow. I feel I am 
just beginning to comprehend Jerusalem and now must go 
away. With much love to all and hoping you do not find my 
letters a bore. Your aff., M. D. R. 

We all feel we must take the first day in Cairo to rest, as 
we only spend the night on the ship and get off Monday morn- 
ing at Alexandria. 

Grand New Hotel, Jerusalem. 

March 21st, 1903. 
Dear Father, 

The things that strike me most here are the filth and the 
tawdriness of the decorations in the churches. The country 
is very much like the west. In the valley of the Dead Sea 
near Jericho this is particularly so. There are sand buttes 
and arroyos backed by treeless mountains. The churches 
have taken every chance to impress the poor and point out 
the very spots where Christ stood, etc., even which hill he 
was crucified on is in doubt. Mother met a General von Roeder 
to-night who is on our ship, who knows the Adelmanns well 
and I expect to meet him to-morrow. We have only six days 
in Cairo and Mother is dead tired yet she talks of spending 
her nights on sleeping tars to see the Temple of Karnac. I 
hope she will change her mind. We expect lots of mail at 
Cairo. With love to Aunt Fanny and Uncle Joe. 

Your aff. son, J. C. R. 

Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo. 

March 24th, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

This is just to let you know that we arrived safely yes- 
terday noon and have rooms looking over a beautiful garden 
with palms and are getting rested from our severe Jerusalem 
trip. The Fowlers and ourselves did not take Cook as we 
were too tired. With love to you all, 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

486 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

P.S. This hotel is the funniest combination of Paris and 
Saratoga. There is a terrace between the door and street 
where you sit and see ail Cairo go by. We arrived at noon 
and have done nothing but attend to different wants and 
getting rested. We go this morning to the Pyramids. It is 
fearfully expensive as we have a dragoman and have to pay 
all his expenses as well. I had two letters from Countess 
Adelmann — says she will not take a refusal to visit there. I 
don't see how it is possible. I met Gen. von Roeder and he 
knows Graf Adelmann well. 



* Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo. 

March 26th, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

Almost our whole ship's party has been obliged to rest 

here or at least take it easy, as our two-weeks' steady travel- 





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THE GARDEN'S OF SHEPHEARDS HOTEL, CAIRO 

ling in Syria had completely used us up. We are so happy 

and comfortable here and would like to stay and not move on- 

487 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

This Hotel is nearly perfect, and we have two single rooms 
looking out on a beautiful garden with flowers and palm trees, 
so that we have perfect quiet and yet at the front of the Hotel 
is the busiest street in Cairo and we sit out on the Terrace 
and have 5 o'clock tea and see every one and the merchants 
crying their wares and the syces running in front of the car- 
riages and every kind of equipage, so it is most amusing. The 
first day we drove out to the Pyramids and rode on donkeys 
around them and the Sphinx, but I was so timid I have had 




CAIRO 



to give up an excursion to-day where I would have had to 
ride a donkey five hours, and I am resting to-day. Yesterday 
Clifford and I went alone to the citadel and some mosques 
and the Tombs of the Mamelukes. As elsewhere in the Arab 
quarter filth and misery reign supreme. The people are too 
lazy to wash their faces and the flies around the eyes of the 
young children are a disgusting sight. 

Elias came yesterday with his own carriage and took us 
to the great Museum and to the Bazaars, and I met 
Brugsch Bey at the Museum. The Fowlers had a letter to 
Chaka Bey, who has charge of the Railways and between 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

the two we are invited to go to a swell wedding this eve^- 
ning. We are to stop at the Elias house en route. Out at 
the Pyramids I meant to mention the Mena Hotel, a 
most beautiful hotel, with every comfort, on the very 
edge of the Desert. Many people spend the winter there 
for lung and bronchial troubles. Some of our party start 




THE TRIP TO THE PYRAMIDS 



to-night on a trip up the Nile on dahabeahs, go with the 

Cook party to Luxor. We leave here to-morrow and take the 

night train to Luxor, spending two days only there and 

coming back Sunday night straight to Alexandria and 

go on the ship by noon. There are many tempting things 

to buy but I am afraid my money will not hold out, so I have 

to turn away. The Fowlers buy very lavishly. We are quite 

489 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

excited about going to the wedding. Last night the gardens 
of this hotel were illuminated and throngs of people threw 
paper confetti and after there was a ball. It seemed a pity 




THE SPHINX 
M. D. R. tying her shoes 



to spoil the clean grass and gravel and this morning they took 

up wagon loads of it. Elias wanted to know all about you. 

He has grown so stout I would not have known him — he 

seems to have the same old friendly feeling. I fear he expected 

me to buy valuable things at the Bazaars, but I didn't do it 

all the same. 

490 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

Mrs. Fowler thinks the front street here a combination of 
Paris and Saratoga and I think not unlike. The food is -deli- 
cious and it would be a delightful place to stay. Mr. Fowler 
is planning to come directly here another year and spend a 
month on a dahabeah on the Nile. I cannot imagine anything 
more restful and they say one has every comfort and even 
luxury. I had to let the last of our Syrian trip go without a 
description, but I look back on it all with delight. Jerusalem 
in the olden times must have been a dream of beauty, but 
now the unspeakable Turk has made it look like every place 
where he rules, a wreck of the past. The Turks never repair 
anything. We enjoy the uniforms of the English officers, 
many of them staying here. Mr. Fowler sang all the way 
from the Jordan — "Jordan am a hard road to trabble. " He 
is very funny. With much love to you. 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo, 

March 27th, 1903. 
Dear Father, 

We both like Cairo ever so much and I for one am sorry 
to leave it for Luxor, "where we go to-night. Edward Elias 
has been most kind and has given me a beautiful scarab. Last 
night we visited his wife and went on with him afterwards to 
a Mohammedan wedding of very rich people. Mother and 
Mrs. Fowler saw a lot but Mr. F. and I cooled our heels" in 
a tent and waited. Lost my Panama hat out of the window 
of an express train and can't forgive myself. To-day is hot 
and therefore pleasant as we really have been cold here. The 
hotel is fine and very expensive. With love and hoping to 
see you soon. J. C. R. 

The Luxor Hotel, Luxor. 

March 28th, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

We took the train last night and had a dusty ride here, 
where there is summer heat and flies intolerable. Fortu- 

491 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

nately I wore a thin summer dress from Cairo and we got fly 
switches, and then started for the Temple of Karnak, where 
the French government is now excavating. There were 
troops of natives heaving and hauling and an overseer with 
an ugly whip, so I imagine things are going on very much as 
they did when the Jews had to work for Pharaoh. Even with 
so many magnificent papyrus and lotus columns in place and 
the hieroglyphics as distinct as when they were made it is 




KARNAK 

necessary to use one's imagination. The sacred lake is now a 

dirty pond, but one can see the remains of walls and columns 

and broken statues, which in ancient times were all about the 

lake and the avenues of sphinxes, 500 on each side, from the 

temple to the Nile and another at right angles with another 

sort of sphinxes with ram's heads. Where they intersect 

were four obelisks, one has fallen and they are trying to raise 

it. All this was buried deep in rubbish and one wonders how 

such enormous columns and walls were ever overthrown. 

All the Cooks' people were away at the tombs of the Kings 

492 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 




493 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

at Thebes, so I took a good nap after lunch and then we went 
to the Temple of Luxor, very near the Hotel, and also near 
the Nile. This has also been excavated and a Mosque still 
remains, built over one side. The English consul had a house 
on top of one of the pylons, now they are going to clear away 
the native huts and move the mosque so the rubbish will not 




THE RIDE TO THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS, FROM LUXOR 

collect again. Here were two great halls, one of papyrus 
columns, big flutings, and the other of the lotus columns with 
flaring capitals and magnificent statues, colossal size, stand- 
ing between the columns and some colossal seated figures in 
front of the gate on each side. After buying myself photos I 
sat down to watch the sunset with some of the ship's party. 
This was at last the Egypt of my dreams. All the dirt and 

494 



CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT 

flies disappeared and the sun left a red glow which made the 
hills beyond the Nile (the Lybian Hills) stand out sharply 
and then all was reflected in the water. The boats moored 
thickly at the banks with their curved masts made a wonder- 
ful picture and the women going down with their empty water 
vases poised on their heads and returning with them erect 
and full, all these moving between us and this red glow, made 
it worth while to take the journey. The flies, heat and dust 
are the other side of the picture. The misery of the people 
cannot be described — they get almost nothing to eat. To- 
morrow we cross the river to Thebes and the Tombs of the 
Kings and the sitting Colossi. I am going in a chair as I am 
too afraid of donkeys. Goodbye, with love. 

Aff., M. D. R. 

We take the train to-morrow night direct to Alexandria. 




ITALY 



Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, 
March 29th, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

Mr. Fowler to-day said I had better come home with him 
on this same ship May 8th. When we got to Alexandria all 
those of the ship's party who did not go to Luxor were there. 
This evening at dinner every lady was presented with a small 
bonbon box in solid silver as a souvenir of this cruise, and 
the men had leather memorandum books. They certainly 
try to please. We are fortunate still in weather, as there is 
almost no motion. Now we have three nights and two days, 
this being Monday evening, and we land at Palermo Thurs- 
day morning and spend Friday at Messina and Taormina, 
then on to Naples, where I will have to pack the things for 
Clifford to take home. Enough for to-night. I will leave it 
open until we get to Palermo. 

Thursday, April 2nd. 
We are just returned from our trip through Messina to 
Taormina and are in raptures. Can you imagine a sea and 
coast like the Riviera, but magnified and isolated and a town 
perched up on a peak and a village of all stone and stucco 
and a wonderful old monastery with a terraced garden hang- 
ing hundreds of feet over the sea, with Mt. Aetna rising 

behind it? The Monastery is the Hotel de St. Domenica 

496 



ITALY 

where we had lunch and I didn't imagine that there was any- 
thing on this earth so beautiful. There was not a blot or an 
ugliness to mar it. The color of the water could only be com- 
pared to gems and all the buildings and walls were yellowish 
and pinkish white plaster overhung with wistaria, red and 




ISOLA E CAPO S. LEO, TAORMINA 

white geraniums and yellow and white daisies, the kind we 
pay a dollar a dozen for, a perfect walled road took us to the 
top. We were a Cooks' party but Cliff and I and the Fowlers 
kept together. The whole town of Messina was out to see us 
go and come. There were whole rows of columbaria and 
Roman walls in this high village and a very fine Greek theatre. 
I shall bring the pictures but the color you can never imagine. 
32 497 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 




IN THE CONVENT HOTEL, TAORMINA, SICILY 




THE GREEK THEATRE, TAORMINA 
498 



ITALY 

We hope to see Stromboli about 10 to-night in eruption. Only 
a little smoke came from Mt. Aetna. Tomorrow we land at 
Palermo, spend the day and then reach Naples Saturday 
morning. 

We see something of the German general who knows the 
Adelmanns. We are going to stay on the ship until it ieaves 
Naples. I suppose you will feel badly that I don't come back 
with Clifford, but I feel that I am here and cannot be sure of 
getting here again and it will be only three weeks from the 
time Clifford arrives that I shall also arrive. I am so tired I 
must not write any more, so good bye, 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

Auguste Victoria (Naples). 

April 6th, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

I expect to go to Sorrento by the way of Pompeii this 
afternoon and have my luggage all ready to leave the ship. 
We went to the Opera last night to hear La Tosca and the 
house is beautiful and the performance very enjoyable. We 
had lunch at the fine new hotel Bertolini, nearby, with a gor- 
geous view. Clifford went up Vesuvius with some other people. 

I shall be home just three weeks after Clifford and I haven't 
courage to face the 14 days on the ship and I need a complete 
rest on land before undertaking it. I will write immediately 
on my arrival at Rome where I expect to spend two weeks. 

With much love to you and Sam. 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

Rome, Saturday, April nth, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

I arrived here on Thursday evening having left Naples at 
2.57 that afternoon, Mrs. Elliot waiting for me. There was a 
strike among the cab men so we had some trouble to get ray 
luggage to the house. Mrs. Elliot has a very nice apartment 
in the new part of Rome, on high ground near the Palace of 

499 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Queen Margherita. Directly behind the house is the best 
preserved part of the old Aurelian wall and I look at it at 
night in the moonlight before I go to bed, it is so picturesque. 
The Fowlers went to the Grand Hotel. It was difficult to get 
rooms in Rome just at this season. We shall probably go to 
Paris together ten days from now. We went down to the 
ship after all lunching together last Wednesday in Naples and 
said goodbye to every one but did not stay until the ship 
sailed. Clifford was delighted to go, but I imagine he was 
very seasick, as there was a fearful storm that night. Our 
Hotel was just back of the Promenade, with sea wall and the 
surf struck with such force that it shook my bed. I was really 
frightened and thought they were earthquake shocks. 

I had a good rest yesterday morning and unpacked my 
things. Then in the afternoon went out with Mrs. Elliot and 
had tea at a pretty tea room on the Corso, a sort of charity 
run by some Roman Countesses. After that we stopped at 
Santa Maria Sopra Minerva and at the Pantheon. At the 
latter we saw the tombs of Victor Emmanuel and Umberto 
and many officers and soldiers were clustered about them and 
there were lots of floral tributes. From there we arrived at 
St. Peter's at six o'clock to hear the Miserere sung by the Sis- 
tine Choir (the Pope's Angels they are called) without organ, 
it being Good Friday. The music was of the highest order 
and perfectly sung by beautiful voices. The church was very 
full in the front half and quantities of officers. To-day we are 
going to the Villa Medici and to call at the Hotel Royal and 
perhaps walk in the Borghese gardens, which are just across 
the street from here. To-morrow morning we get up very 
early and go to St. Peter's at 8 o'clock to hear the Easter mass. 
We take camp stools to rest on and I don't know how long we 
shall be there. In the afternoon we drive on the Pincian Hill, 
hoping to see the King and Queen and Queen Margherita. 
Lunch is ready so good bye with love. 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

500 



ITALY 

Rome, April 12th, 1903. 
Dear Clifford, 

I was glad to get your letter from Genoa. We had a 
frightful storm in Naples that night. My bed shook and 
quivered and it seems there were earthquake shocks in Sicily 
that night. The Potters invited me to go to the races to-mor- 
row and to dine with them Wednesday evening at their hotel. 
With love to your Father and Sam, and hoping you had an 
agreeable voyage home and got through the custom house all 
right. Your aff., M. D. R. 

Rome, April 17th, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

How the time flies and where it goes I cannot imagine. 
In a few days Clifford will be at home. I have been sight- 
seeing in Rome, going over some of the old ground and trying 
to recall the past. It has been quite cold here, but yester- 
day and day before were fine. We took advantage of the fine 
weather to go to Tivoli Wednesday and had a perfect day. 
The villa d'Este was most beautiful with its wonderful cypress 
trees and gardens and fountains. We had lunch, which we 
took with us, in a beautiful court on a great marble table, with 
such a view of Rome as I could never describe. We also saw 
all the cascades and went to the very lowest part of the won- 
derful rocky basins where the Anio rushes through. Then we 
went to Hadrian's villa, a very large ruin and home by the 
trolley. 

Sunday being Easter we went to St. Peter's and were 
lucky enough to get seats in one of the tribunes. Cardinal 
Rampolla officiated and it was the greatest mummery I ever 
saw, and not at all the magnificent spectacle I saw at Christ- 
mas time many years ago. In the afternoon we drove first in 
the Borghese gardens, so lovely, and then on the Pincian. In 
the latter you could not call it driving, as we were at a stand- 
still most of the time, the crowd was so tremendous. We 
dined at the Grand Hotel in the evening, as that is where one 

501 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

must go to see the fashionable world. We drove out the Via 
Appia Nuova, and across the Campania and the views of the 
Sabine hills and Frascati were most lovely. Wednesday morn- 
ing was the rag fair, which takes place once a week and all the 
world was there, and it was great fun. In the evening I dined 
at the Hotel Royal and made an engagement to drive today 
to the Villa Doria-Pamfili. Unfortunately it was a very bad 
day and we went instead to the Barberini Palace and to Cas- 
tellani's. The latter, the jeweller, was there in his store and 
he said the one who came to Philadelphia was the antiqua- 
rian. When I asked him about Mme. Castellani he said he 
did not know her, she had never been presented to him. 

From there we met the Elliots at the Baths of Diocletian 
near the Grand Hotel to visit the studio of Mr. Ezekiel, it being 
his reception day. His studio is one of the sights of Rome and 
the approach up an incline with trellis of wistaria and roses in 
full bloom and walls of antique marble and busts, leads to a 
big room under the old Roman arches which he has made by 
putting in a floor, at the proper height. We saw a model of 
the monument of Thomas Jefferson which he has just put up 
at Louisville and a bust of Anthony Drexel, which he is work- 
ing at for a gigantic statue, an excellent likeness. I called at 
the embassy one day and left my letter and received a card 
the next day for the Wednesday reception. Mrs. Elliot and 
I went and were amazed at the magnificence of the home, 
such a palace, with old glorious gardens right in the heart of 
Rome and such decorations and tapestries and pictures. One 
room was in white velvet. I also presented the letter to Mrs. 
Haseltine, which Mrs. Smith gave me and was invited to 
lunch yesterday. I found another palace, very old, and full of 
art treasures, and we had lunch informally in a small room. 
Mrs. H. made herself very agreeable. I met the Fowlers 
to-day and they are going on to Paris to-morrow and will get 
me a room at the Hotel Perouse, near the Columbia, where 
they are going to stay. I did not present my letter to Lanci- 

ani, and am sorry as the Fowlers said he was delightful. 

502 



ITALY 

,. Last night Mrs. Elliot and I went to the Opera at the 
Costanzi Theatre to see a new opera "Germania" which had 
one good singer, a splendid orchestra and wonderful scenery. 
Very few people in the house as the King and Queen don't 
go. I had a nice letter from Mrs. Hazard, saying she expected 
some New York people to be staying with her the last of 
April, but that if they didn't come she wanted me to stay 
there, but in any case to come to some nearby hotel where 
she would be in touch with me. 

I got the rosaries blessed by the Pope, which I bought at 
the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem and at Bethlehem. 

I shall be with you again before you know where you are. 
So good bye with much love. 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

Rome, April 21st, 1903. 
Dear Frank, Cliff and Sam, 

I am leaving here to-morrow night alone, in a through 
train to Paris, arriving Thursday night. I should have to 
wait until the first of next week to have company only as far 
as Florence. I am going to the Hotel La Perouse, near the 
Arc de Triomphe, where the Fowlers are. The Potters took 
me for a lovely drive to the Villa Doria-Pamfili on Monte 
Janiculum passing Tasso's oak and the church where he is 
buried. The mountains in the distance are thickly covered 
with snow, and they say it has snowed in Paris. It has been 
very cold here and they say they have never known such 
cold. The Elliots have been more than kind and I have 
enjoyed my stay very much. It is a sort of picnic all the time. 
They have an excellent cook and we revel in fresh peas and 
asparagus. I miss Clifford very much and don't like the idea 
of being alone. I shall write again as soon as I get to Paris. 

With much love, Your aff., M. D. R. 




FRANCE 

Paris, Wed., April 29th, 1903. 
Dear Frank and all, 

Sunday night. Mr. Fowler sent us word that as it was 
rainy and dull he wanted me to go out to dinner with them 
so we went to the Tour d' Argent and he enjoyed it very 
much. Monday he met Mrs. Fowler and myself and we were 
to go to a little place to lunch so as not to come all the way 
back here, but he insisted upon going to Durand's. We had 
coffee and it upset me so I did not go to Mrs. Hazard's in the 
evening. Yesterday when I got back at five I found a formal 
invitation from the F's to dine at Paillard's with them and no 
Jersey business. It was very gay and we brought home sou- 
venir fans. Mrs. Spencer Biddle called at once, that is, Monday. 

I went late this afternoon to call on the Rochambeaus and 
found the old Marquise at home, and she seemed really pleased 
to see me, kissed me at least ten times and has asked me there 
to dinner. She called in the youngest son, Guy, a tall, fine- 
looking fellow, who had to go back to-night to his work in 
some school. As I was sitting down stairs here in the hotel they 
were talking over the phone, the Due de Luynes, "attendra la 
Princesse de Pless," au cercle du Rue Royal; high sounding 
names are they not? 

They are making great preparations for King Edward, 
decorating the streets, &c, and everything will be closed 
Friday and Saturday on his account. 
With much love, 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

504 



FRANCE 

Paris, Sunday, May 3rd, 1903. 
Dear Frank, 

Since I wrote you on Wednesday I have been very busy 
going about shopping and sightseeing and having a good time. 
Thursday eve. we went over to the Cafe Foyot in the Rue de 
Tournon, a real old fashioned French cafe, and went after- 
wards to the Concert Rouge that Mrs. Sims told me about, 
and where you hear excellent music and people take ices and 
drinks and smoke. Friday I tried to make a return to the 
Fowlers and took them to Cafe Durand for dinner and to the 
Opera. King Edward arrived Friday and the streets were all 
illuminated and it was worth seeing. He went to the Opera 
Saturday night, but no one could buy seats as it was only by 
invitation. The Opera was full, however, all the boxes occu- 
pied, but the performance of Tannhauser was very ordinary. 
I did not care to stand hours in the street to see the King so 
I have not seen him at all. Yesterday the Fowlers and I went 
to the Salon (the Split) and found better pictures on the whole 
than at the old salon. Mr. F. made an ofTer for two pictures, 
one by Harrison and the other by Courtois and we came up 
to the cake shop on the corner of Ave. Victor Hugo and Rue 
Presbourg and had tea and strawberries and delicious cakes. 
The people were crowding in after coming from the races and 
it was very gay. I don't remember if I wrote you I went to 
see the Marquise de Rochambeau and she was so glad to see 
me. She called yesterday and left a note asking me to dinner 
on Wednesday. I got back just in time to go with the Fowlers 
to dine at Noel and Peters and had a fine dinner. To-day we 
went to the Madeleine and St. Roch and lunched at Viau's, 
and have dined here at the hotel. They leave to-morrow 
morning for London and will have a special compartment in 
the train and on the boat. I sail Friday and this is my last 
letter, so good bye and hoping to see you in New York, with 
much love. 

Your aff., M. D. R. 



505 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1906 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1906 

After the long excursion of 1903 the "Wanderlust" re- 
turned and the following years were filled with studies of new 
scenes and historic places to be visited. 

With her niece as companion and with a desire to give her 
the benefits of travel, Mrs. Rosengarten sailed from New 
York, aboard the Steamship Celtic February 13th, 1906, 
visiting Fayal and the Azores, thence to Gibraltar, Naples, 
Sorrento, Pompeii, Amain, La Cava and Ravello, "a spot like 
Heaven!" A visit to Taormina, Paestum Salerno, Messina, 
Palermo, Syracuse, Naples and to Capri, Anacapri and 
Rome for Easter week was also made. 

Then began the long thought of tour to the Hill Towns 
of Italy — Orvieto, Bracciano, Villa Lante, Viterbo, Forter- 
ezzo, Montefiascone, Spoleto, Assisi, Foligno and Spello, 
Perugia, Siena, Trevi, Florence, Fiesole, Venice, Verona and 
over the Brenner, through the Tyrol on to Munich. Thence 
to Augsburg and Ulm, to Sigmaringen for a visit to the Count 
and Countess Adelmann, to Zurich, Hohentviel, Rhine Falls 
at Schaffhausen, thence to Paris, to Dover, Canterbury and 
London, sailing for New York on May 21st from Dover. 

F. H. R. 



INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1906 



Aboard S. S. Celtic Feb. 13, 1906 515 

J. P. Morgan aboard. . .Feb. 13, 1906 515 

He holds ship for visit to 
"Fayal, etc Feb. 22, 1906 517 

Not as beautiful as Ma- 
deira Feb. 23, 1906 518 

Magnolia trees, gera- 
niums and roses in full 
bloom Feb. 23, 1906 518 

Portuguese only language Feb. 23, 1906 518 

Courteous resident shows 

his gardens Feb. 23, 1906 519 

Rough experience return- 
ing to the ship Feb. 23, 1906 519 

Ponta Delgada Feb. 23, 1906 520 

Rough Landing at Fayal Feb. 26, 1906 520 

Hotel Bruno, frisia in 

full bloom Feb 26, 1906 520 

Battle of flowers, pelted 

with flowers Feb. 26, 1906 521 

Lillies, camellias, frisia, 

acacia, etc Feb. 26, 1906 521 

Impressive kx>k of ship at 

night Feb. 26, 1906 522 

Landing at Gibraltar. . .Feb. 28, 1906 523 

The sights of Gibraltar, 

Bougainvillea vines . . Feb. 28, 1906 523 

Shrove Tuesday and 

crowds of people Feb. 28, 1906 523 

Arab market Feb. 28, 1906 523 

Concert for Seamen's 
Home Feb. 28, 1906 524 

Grand Hotel, Naples Mar. 2, 1906 525 

Discomforts of getting on 

land — rain Mar. 2, 1906 525 

Hotel superb Mar. 2, 1906 525 

Othello at the Opera Mar. 4, 1906 526 

Red lava rolling down 

from Vesuvius Mar. 4, 1906 526 

After rain and warmth 

very cold Mar. 4, 1906 527 

Cathedral and Bertolini .Mar. 4, 1906 527 

$40 a day for automobile. Mar. 4, 1906 527 

Sorrento Mar. 4, 1906 527 

Beautiful weather Mar. 6, 1906 527 

Pozzuoli, Cape Misenae 

and Baias Mar. 6, 1906 528 

Grotto of Posilipo and 

the new grotto Mar. 6, 1906 528 

Solfatara, old port of 

Caligula Mar. 6, 1906 528 

Villas of Cicero and Sal- 
lust Mar. 6, 1906 528 

Falernian wine Mar. 6, 1906 529 



Lucrene Lake and Lake 
Avernus Mar. 

Grotto of the Cumaean 
Sybil Mar. 

Hard time getting to sta- 
tion Mar, 

Pompeii Mar 

Beauty of the coast to 
Sorrento Mar. 

Tarantella Mar 

Amain Mar 

Features of people chang- 
ing Mar. 

Climb 270 steps Mar, 

La Cava Mar 

Paestum Mar 

Ravello Mar. 

A spot like heaven Mar. 

Wonderful mosaic pulpit Mar. 

Taormina Mar. 

Temple of Ceres at 
Paestum Mar. 

Picnic on the Altar of the 
Basilica Mar. 

Salerno to Messina Mar. 

Splendid Mountain Scen- 
ery Mar. 

Reggio, across the straits 
in 20 minutes to Mes- 
sina Mar. 

Palermo car on the boat .Mar. 

Warm drive to Taormina Mar. 

Hotel Timeo Mar. 

Mt. ^Etna and beauty 
everywhere Mar. 

Gardens of hotel so beau- 
tiful Mar. 

Mr. Wood's studio, 
Taormina Mar. 

Domenico Convent Hotel Mar. 

Mola . .Mar. 

M. D. R.'s birthday Mar. 

Funny description of her 
trip in the grotto of the 
Cumsean Sybil Mar. 

Scare in sleeping car. . . .Mar. 

Grand Hotel Villa Politi 
Syracuse Mar. 

Girgenti and the Temples Mar. 

Greek theatre and Roman 
amphitheatre, SyracuseMar. 

Almond trees in full bloomMar. 

The Faraglioni (Rocks 
thrown by Polhemus) . Mar. 

Fort Euryalus Mar. 

511 



1906 529 

1906 529 

1906 530 

1906 530 

1906 530 

1906 530 

1906 531 

1906 S3 1 

1906 531 

1907 532 
1906 532 
1906 532 
1906 533 
1906 533 
1906 533 



11, 1906 534 



1906 534 
1906 534 



11, 1906 534 



"> 



1906 535 

1906 535 

1906 536 

1906 536 

1906 536 

1906 536 

1906 536 

1906 537 

1906 537 

1906 538 



1906 538 

1906 538 

1906 539 

1906 539 

1906 540 

1906 54c 

1906 540 

1906 540 



INDEX 



Grand Hotel Des Pal- 
mes, Palermo Mar.21, 1906 541 

Capella Palatina Mar.21, 1906 542 

Monreale Mar.21, 1906 542 

Villa Tasca, ideal gardens. Mar.21, 1906 543 

By steamer to Naples. . . .Mar.22, 1906 543 

Capri Mar.22, 1906 543 

St. Lucia and Sorrento. . .Mar.22, 1906 544 

Hotel Luisisana, Capri. . .Mar.22, 1906 544 

Colder than Sicily Mar.22, 1906 544 

Anacapri Mar.22, 1906 544 

Visit to the villa of the 

Bodines Mar.22, 1916 544 

Barbarossa Castle Mar.22, 1906 545 

Very rough voyage to 

Naples Mar.25, 1906 546 

Savoy Hotel, Rome Mar.25, I 9°6 546 

500 hotels and pensions 

crowded in Rome Mar.25, 1906 546 

The Pantheon, Ara Coeli 

and the Capitol Mar.25, I 9°6 546 

Hail, rain and sunshine 

cold Mar.25, x 9°6 546 

Tea at the "Excelsior" a 

great sight Mar.25, l 9°& 546 

Rome Mar. 26, 1906 547 

Borghese gallery and the 

garden Mar.26, 1906 547 

Palace Hotel, Rome Apr. 1, 1906 547 

Weather very cold Apr. 1, 1906 547 

Rag Fair "CampodiFiori"Apr. 1, 1906 548 
Prof. Reynault's lecture 

at the Palatine Hill . . . .Apr. 1, 1906 548 
St. Paul's on the Appian 

Way Apr. 1, 1906 548 

Vatican Apr. 1, 1906 548 

Colonna, Corsini and 

Rospigliosi Palaces. . .Apr. 1,1906 549 
Tea Rooms, Piazza di 

Spagni Apr. 1, 1906 549 

Coliseum illuminated 

with Bengal lights ... .Apr. 1, 1906 549 

Lanciani Apr. 1, 1906 550 

Tunnel under the Quirinal. Apr. 1,1906 550 
Ruins not as interesting 

as formerly Apr. 1, 1906 550 

Sacristy at St. Peter's, 

Rome Apr. 3. 1906 551 

Fragments of Malazzo di 

Fiorli's frescoes Apr. 3, 1906 551 

Baths of Titus, golden 

house of Nero Apr. 3,1906 551 

San Clement's Apr. 3, 1906 551 

"Aday with St. Paul". . .Apr. 3,1906 552 

English cemetery Apr. 3, 1906 552 

Monument of Story to his 

wife Apr. 3, 1906 552 

Tomb of Caius Cestius. .Apr. 3, 1906 552 

Aurelian Wall Apr. 3, 1906 552 

Basilica of St. Paul Apr. 3, 1906 552 

Catacombs of Domitilla. .Apr. 3,1906 552 
Alban Hills and Sabine 

Mountains Apr. 3, 1906 552 



Tomb of Cecilia Metella. Apr. 3, 1906 552 

Circus Maxentius Apr. 3, 1906 552 

Baths of Caracalla Apr. 3,1906 552 

Church of San Sebastian. Apr. 3, 1096 552 

Professor Tani Apr. 3, 1906 553 

Opera "Rheingold, l'oro 

di Reno" Apr. 3, 1906 553 

Magnificently staged but 

too funny in Italian. . .Apr. 5, 1906 554 
San Lorenzo, outside the 

walls, Pius 9th's tomb. Apr. 5, 1906 554 

Orvieto Apr. 8, 1906 555 

Viterbo Apr. 8. 1906 555 

Difficulty in getting to 

Trastevere station Apr. 8,1906 555 

Ride across the Cam- 

pagna Apr. 8, 1906 555 

Change of climate cross- 
ing Cimian Hills Apr. 8, 1906 555 

Bracciano Apr. 8, 1906 555 

Castle of Orsini Apr. 8, 1906 555 

Caprainca Apr. 8, 1906 555 

Etrurian plain to Viterbo. Apr. 8,1906 556 
Padrone of hotel a good 

guide Apr. 8, 1906 556 

Villa Lante, Bagnaja Apr. 8, 1906 556 

The Municipio Apr. 8, 1906 556 

Etruscan sarcophagi Apr. 8, 1906 556 

Viterbo, ancient palace of 

the Popes where Pope 

John 22nd was killed. .Apr. 8, 1906 556 
The Santa Pellegrina 

quarter Apr. 8, 1906 557 

Bridge over the ravine 

and mediaeval towers. Apr. 8, 1906 557 
Gate with three arches. . .Apr. 8, 1906 557 
Duchess Di Lante, was 

Miss Allen of St. Louis Apr. 8, 1906 557 
Orvieto, and the Funicular 

Railway Apr. 8, 1906 558 

Curious bed warmers. . . .Apr. 8, 1906 558 

Beautiful Cathedral Apr. 8, 1906 559 

Gregorian music, the bish- 
op officiating Apr. 8, 1906 559 

Frescoes in the side Chapel 

of Luca Signorelli Apr. 8, 1906 559 

Forterezzo Apr. 8, 1906 560 

Terrifying depths visible 

from parapets Apr. 8, 1906 560 

San Patrizio, Etruscan 

Necropolis Apr. 8, 1906 560 

Wine of Montefiascone 

called Est, Est, Est. . . .Apr. 8, 1906 561 

Spoleto Apr. 9, 1906 561 

News of the eruption of 

Vesuvius, a dreadful 

tragedy Apr. 9, 1906 561 

Orte Apr. 9, 1906 562 

A"priest" to warm thebedApr. 9,1906 563 
Paintings by Lo Spagna in 

the Municipio Apr. 9,1906 564 

Through trap door to see 

Roman Bridge Apr. 9, 1906 564 

512 



INDEX 



Drive to Assisi, Foligno 

and Spello Apr. 9 

Perugia Apr. 12 

San Pietro, stalls of 

Raphael Apr. 12 

Siena Apr. 14 

Terontola, misfortunes of 

a German couple Apr. 14. 

Chiusi and its Etruscan 

museum Apr. 14 

Trevi, Foligno, Spello. . . .Apr. 14 
Christ in the Temple 

among the Doctors . . . .Apr. 14 
Assisi and the Umbrian 

Plain Apr. 14 

"Porginneula, " where St. 

Francis began life Apr. 14 

Thornless rose trees. . . .Apr. 14 
Assisi and the works of 

of Giotto and Cimabue Apr. 14 
The Duomo and Santa 

Chiava Apr. 14 

Drive to Perugia Apr. 14 

Hotel Brufani and Pal- 
ace Hotel Apr. 14 

Roman and Etruscan 

gates and museum . . . .Apr. 14 
Baglioni's Castle, Porta 

Marcia Apr. 14 

Piazza Municipio Apr. 14 

Collegio del Cambia Apr. 14 

Cathedral and high mass 

at Perugia Apr. 14 

San Gimignano and 

Poggibonsi Apr. 14 

The park called "The 

Lizza" Apr. 14 

Grand Hotel, Siena Apr. 15 

Easter Sunday Apr. 15 

Cathedral and Piccolo- 
mini chapel Apr. 15 

Castello of Belcaro Apr. 15 

Bastions of the Fort Santa 

Barbara Apr. 15 

Ride to Monte Oliveto. .Apr. 16 

Porta Romana Apr. 16 

Envying automobile 

travellers Apr. 16 

Mediaeval palaces on the 

Corso Apr. 16 

Piazza VittorioEmmanueleApr. 16 
Palazzo Publico, Maugia.Apr. 16 
Academia delle Belle 

Arte Apr. 16, 

"Adoration of the Magi" 

San Agostino Apr. 16 

Siena not as beautiful as 

Perugia Apr. 16 

Anglo-American Hotel, 

Florence Apr. 18 

San Gimignano Apr. 18 

Uffizi Gallery Apr. 19 

Ponte Vecchio Apr. 19 

33 



1906 
[906 


564 

565 


[906 
[906 


566 

566 


1906 


566 


[906 
[906 


567 
567 


[906 


567 


[906 


568 


[906 
[906 


568 
568 


[906 


568 


[906 
[906 


569 
569 


[906 


569 


906 


570 


[906 
[906 
[906 


570 

57° 
57° 


906 


S7i 


906 


S7i 


906 
906 
906 


57i 
572 
572 


906 
906 


572 
572 


906 
906 
906 


573 
573 
573 


906 


573 


[907 

[906 
[906 


574 
574 
574 


906 


575 


906 


575 


906 


575 


906 
906 
[906 
[906 


576 
576 
577 
577 



News of the San Fran- 
cisco earthquake Apr. 19, 1906 578 

At Orvieto when Vesuvius 

erupted Apr. 19, 1906 578 

Letter from Countess 

Adelmann Apr. 19, 1906 578 

Fiesole Apr. 21, 1906 578 

Trees out, rose bushes in 

full bloom Apr. 21, 1906 578 

Roman theatre, Hotel 

Aurora Apr. 21, 1906 578 

Bargello, Palace of the 

Podesta Apr. 21, 1906 580 

Jewelry shops on the 

Ponte Vecchio Apr. 21, 1906 580 

Hotel Royal Danieli, 

Venice Apr. 26, 1906 580 

Ride over the Apennines, 
45 Tunnels Apr. 26, 1906 581 

Venice as surprisingly 

beautiful as ever Apr. 26, 1906 581 

Campanile unfinished. . . .Apr. 26, 1906 581 

Two hours in the Doges' 

Palace Apr. 26, 1906 581 

Bought lace Apr. 26, 1906 581 

St. Maria della Salute. . . .Apr. 26, 1906 582 

Frari and Canova's TombApr. 6, 1906 582 

Private gondolas Apr. 26, 1906 583 

Don Carlos and his wife. . .Apr. 26, 1906 583 

Difficulties in getting 

tickets to Munich Apr. 28, 1906 583 

Murano and the glass 
works in the glass com- 
pany's gondola Apr. 28, 1906 583 

English warship Drake, 
Prince Louis of Batten- 
berg Apr. 28, 1906 584 

Wonders, of St. Mark's. .Apr. 28, 1906 584 

Leaving Venice Apr. 29, 1906 584 

Difficulties at Verona 

getting R.R. tickets. . .May 2, 1906 585 

Botzen and the Brenner 
Pass May 2, 1906 585 

Arrival at Munich May 2, 1906 586 

Freiherr Von Soden, 

meeting us . , May 2, 1906 586 

Grand affair at Munich in 

House of Peers May 2, 1906 586 

Son of Prince Karl Theo- 
dore made a Peer May 2, 1906 586 

The Mother of the Prince. May 2,1906 587 

Many interesting officials 

and uniforms May 2, 1906 587 

Curious sensation sitting 

in Box with Royalty. .May 2, 1906 587 

Augsburg and Ulm May 2, 1906 588 

Arrival at Sigmaringen. . .May 2, 1906 588 

Familiar scenes after 
visits of 1897, 1900 and 
1903 May 2, 1906 588 

Many improvements, cor- 
dial reception by Count 
and Countess Adelmann May 2,1906 588 

513 



INDEX 



General von Camerer . . . .May 2, 1906 588 
Count and Countess 

Bruhl, Governor of Ho- 

henzollern Sigmaringen May 2, 1906 589 
Snowed four times during 

drive May 2, 1906 589 

Inzigkofen, missed the old 

Prince since his death. .May 2, 1906 589 
Castle beautiful and fin- 
ished May 2, 1906 589 

Zurich, Baur-au-Lac May 3, 1906 589 

Immendingen, wonderful 

cars May 3, 1906 589 

Hohentviel near Singen 

(Ekkehard) May 3,1906 590 

Rhine Falls and Schaff- 

hausen May 3, 1906 590 

Sights in Zurich May 3, 1906 590 

Paris, Hotel Belmont. . . .May 5, 1906 591 
Ride to Paris rough and 

uncomfortable May 5, 1906 591 

Call of Rochambeau 

family May 7, 1906 592 

Invalides, Luxembourg 

gardens May 7, 1906 592 

Pantheon, St. Etienne, 

Notre Dame, old 

Louvre, St. Germain, 

l'Auxerrois May 7, 1906 592 

Tea at Columbin's May 7, 1906 592 

Tea at Rumpelmeyer's . . .May 8, 1906 592 



Lord Berwick, Miss 

Noel-Hill May 

Versailles, Hotel des 

Reservoirs May 

Residence of Mme. de 

Pompadour May 

Samson and Delilah at the 

Grand Opera May 

Alvarez as Samson, Mme. 

Heglou as Delilah May 

The Cid at the theatre 

Francais May 

St. Sulpice May 

Widor at the Organ May 

Madeleine May 

Bois de Boulogne, Put- 

eaux Club, Neuilly. . . .May 
The Cascade and Lakes. .May 
Lunch to Rochambeaus 

at the Ritz May 

Journey to Dover May 

Madame Marchesi May 

M. D'Aillieres and Baron 

Boulay de la Meurthe. May 
Dinner given by Count 
and Countess Rocham- 
beau May 

Canterbury May 

Hotel Metropole, Lon- 
don May 

Sailing for home from 
Dover May 



1906 592 

1906 593 

1906 593 

I9Q6 593 

1906 593 

1906 594 

1906 594 

1906 594 

1906 594 

1906 595 

1906 595 

1906 595 

1906 596 

1906 596 



17, 1906 596 



1906 596 

1906 598 

1906 598 

1906 598 




EN ROUTE 

Feb. 13th, 1906. 

Aboard S. S. "Celtic." 

Leaving New York. 
Dear Frank, 

When you were so far away as to be indistinct, we found 
Mr. and Mrs. Fowler and proceeded to hunt up our deck 
chairs. It does seem as if this separation were unnecessary 
and that you would have enjoyed immensely the whole 
trip. Pierpont Morgan came out on deck. We could see you 
distinctly until we were going quite fast and then we ran to 
the other side when the ship turned. 

We got in here just in time for the people are now crowding. 
The steam toot was tremendous; and did you hear the bugle? 
We are starving, but there is no prospect of lunch that I can 
see. The lunch bugle has just sounded, so I now hope we may 
get something. With much love for you all, and greetings to 
all the family. Affectionately yours, M. D. R. 

P. S. — My next letter will tell you all about the voyage 
and will be posted at Gibraltar and will probably be almost 
three weeks from now in getting to you. 

Monday, Feb. 19th, 1906, 6.30 P. M. 
Aboard S. S. "Celtic." 
Dear Frank and Boys, 

Having been driven in from deck by showers I have time 
to write awhile, the first sitting for dinner being in progress 
and we do not dine until 7.15. Laura has complained of the 

515 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

ocean that she might as well be sailing on the Potomac, for 
until noon today there has been absolutely no motion, but 
while we were at lunch the ocean became covered with white 
caps and the ship began to roll. Fortunately none of us feel 
the slightest inclination toward seasickness as no doubt we 
have become used to the ship in these two smooth days. I 
have not got up early in the mornings, but once up have spent 
the day until bedtime on deck. 

Mr. Morgan plays bridge the entire day in his parlor and 
is only seen at lunch and dinner. I occasionally talk with the 
Canadian ladies and Miss Hallowell, but am generally asleep 
in my chair beside Mrs. Fowler. Laura is radiantly happy 
and is hoping it will be very rough. 

We had a terrible shock the first night when we found the 
wine pantry and the place where they wash the knives was 
up against the wall of our stateroom, and we only slept from 
1 1 .30 to 4.30, when the noise began again. I went to the purser 
who said there was only one stateroom on the ship and that 
an inside one on the lowest deck, but said he would see that 
the noise diminished. It was much better last night and we 
had a good sleep. 

To-night it is so rough they must close the portholes and I 
fear it will be stuffy. I wish for you every day — am sure you 
would have been comfortable. We are one deck too low down 
for comfort. I said today that you would have made the 
acquaintance of all the men in the smoking room and Mr. 
Fowler said you had a very winning personality. 

Mrs. F. thinks he is weakening over the four-days' trip to 
Alexandria, so they may change and go with us to Sicily. I 
do hope so. I shall go to Cooks' at once on arriving at Naples 
and arrange a tour down the Italian coast to Reggio and Sicily 
and back by steamer from Palermo to Naples. 

The food is excellent and very daintily served, and we have 

stuffed Hamburg grapes as the Fowlers had so many baskets 

of fruit. I also was surprised to find in my cabin a big box 

of Maron candy from Mrs. Jordan, which caused me much 

pleasure as well as surprise. 

516 



EN ROUTE 

Thursday, Feb. 22nd, 1906. 

Although there is a howling roaring storm outside the ship 
is as steady as a house, and no one shows the slightest symp- 
tom of illness. This weather is a great disappointment to all, 
as we arrive at Fayal tomorrow early and if it is rough and 
stormy we cannot land in little boats. They do not usually 
land here but Mr. Pierpont Morgan fortunately wished it. 
We were to spend the day there and spend Saturday at Ponta 
Delgada, which would bring us to Gibraltar on Tuesday and 
Naples Friday morning. 

Laura is as happy as possible and perfectly well. Tell 
Sam to read the "Conquest of Canaan," by Booth Tarking- 
ton. It is full of law and will interest him. 

Mr. Smith, Commodore of the New York Yacht Club, sits 
at the next table with a big family, and I never saw such a lot 
of things as he has with him; sent Mr. Fowler last night corn 
on the ear and champagne. Their table is covered with flowers, 
fresh every day and every sort of fruit and candy. We dipped 
into Mrs. Jordan's box the first time last night. 

Pierpont Morgan it seems expected to take his son and 
family with him, but they were prevented by sickness, and 
he invited the Hollands. I suppose the only way is to take 
your own party with you. Some people dress a great deal. 
The Vanderbilts, mother and daughter, the plainest possible. 

If we land at Fayal we will post some cards but I shall 
send this from Gibraltar as you will get it sooner. There 
doesn't seem to be any one for us to cling to, so I suppose we 
shall go our own way and perhaps meet more interesting 
strangers. 

Fayal, Friday, Feb. 23rd, 1906. 

Well, to-day the sun rose and dispersed the clouds and we 
had a fine view of the islands, the Azores, and although the 
water was far from smooth, we got into the small boats and 
went ashore. 

Mr. Fowler was much upset by hearing of the death of 
Mr. McCall of the New York Life Insurance Co., and was also 

517 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

afraid of the getting into the small boats in such rough weather, 
so did not go. We certainly went up and down and Laura 
enjoyed it hugely. 

It is not as beautiful as Madeira but still is beautiful. We 
walked along the first main street past the old Fortress where 
soldiers were standing on guard and past a little park, with 
magnolia trees, geraniums and roses in full bloom. I never 
saw greater cleanliness, houses and streets immaculate. The 
women wear cloaks not unlike our Shakers with enormous 




THE HARBOR AT FAYAL 

hoods wired to hold them out. There were no horses, only 
mules, donkeys and oxen. The drays have wicker tops and 
solid wooden wheels. 

The church was up high above the street and only interest- 
ing for its lining of blue and white tiles forming large sacred 
pictures. We had lunch at the Fayal Hotel where they did 
not speak a word of anything but Portuguese. The bread, 
coffee and oranges were delicious and with an omelette made a 
very good lunch. Miss Hallowell told us they had gone at 
once to the Dabney House, built in 1810 by Mr. Dabney and 

occupied by several generations of Dabneys, whom she knew 

518 






EN ROUTE 

very well. Mr. and Mrs. Wood live there at present and 
showed them all over the house and grounds, where there are 
still furnishings belonging to the Dabneys. 

Of course I knew nothing of this place, but it seems Mr. 
Morgan had been here when he was 14 years old and it was 
to please him the ship stopped to-day. 

After our lunch we took a carriage and drove up and back 
on the mountain where we had a superb view. A man stopped 




MOUNTAINS BACK OF FAYAL 



the carriage as we turned and -said in English, "Will you not 
come in and look at my place? I think you would like to see 
oranges and lemons growing and maybe to take a photograph 
of it." So we went in and he had a nice square house of stone 
and plaster and with shutters and a big farm and a small 
grove of oranges, lemons and bananas enclosed in a bamboo 
hedge. He insisted upon cutting off great branches of each 
and of roses and orange blossoms, so we drove back laden with 
good things and very tired. 

We had a very hard time getting on the ship, the boat 

519 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

tossed up and down so far and we are tired and going to bed 
early, as to-morrow we land at Ponta Delgada, where there 
is to be a flower festival. Mr. Fowler sends greetings to you 
and says he is sorry he could not land with us. Mrs. Vander- 
bilt and her daughter went on shore and lunched at the Hotel, 
altho some people preferred to come back to the ship. Good 
night, I will write again to-morrow night. 

En route to Gibraltar 
Monday, Feb. 26th, 1906. 

Our day at Ponta Delgada was a great success although 
it was so very rough that the officers said at first no women 
would be allowed to land. Mr. Fowler was dead against it 
as the waves came way up over the landing of the ladder and 
the boats would go up and down ten feet. But Mr. Morgan 
went off and then a lot of women and Laura begged to go, so 
finally after I had seen the Misses Hallowell start we decided 
to go. My heart was really in my mouth when I waited for 
the boat to come up at the critical moment for jumping. I 
obeyed the sailor and when he said go I went, sprawling into 
the boat, then I turned to see Laura execute a flying leap. 
When the sailor told her to go the boat went down suddenly, 
but she jumped in a long jump and landed on a fat man who 
caught her. I have never been in a small boat (20 ft.) in such 
waves, but the boats ride the waves wonderfully and the only 
danger was in getting off and on. 

We felt quite lost without the Fowlers, as we had been 
the last to land — every one was away, so we went into Cooks' 
office to leave our wraps, but found the only man who spoke 
English was gone, so I asked for the best hotel to lunch in 
and the Portuguese at the Bank said across the street. Going 
over we found the smells and filth made that impossible, so, 
as I noticed two men nearby, who looked like gentlemen, I 
asked them in French if they could tell me of a place where 
we could lunch comfortably and they very politely directed 
me to Hotel Bruno, up the hill, and got a man to conduct us 

there. 

520 



EN ROUTE 

I noticed six girls who have been with Miss Vanderbilt at 
times and they were surrounded by a lot of tough-looking 
people, so I went over to them and said I had learned of a 
place to lunch and if they chose they could come with me, so 
they did come and when we got up there we found the party 
including Mr. Ward of New York, head of Cable Co., and a 
Mr. Hosmer of Montreal, who had been brought off by a 
young Englishman, cable manager at Ponta Delgada. We 
waited on a balcony with a beautiful view of the shore and a 
lovely garden with frisia growing in full bloom. 

When the lunch was ready for these people they took 
Laura and myself in and the other girls had a side table. Mr. 
King of Baltimore was also of the party, a man Mr. Fowler 
says brought up the Baltimore and Ohio R. R. when low 
down. He was so polite and insisted upon getting a carriage 
for me to go to the " Battle of Flowers." In this way we went 
in procession with them, the young Englishman managing 
everything and went into the Parade. There were many fine 
vehicles, beautifully decorated. One in yellow and green had 
the horse painted yellow. The elite of the place was out in 
full force and many handsome men and women. From the 
first moment we were pelted with flowers, calla lilies, camellias, 
such as we pay a half dollar apiece for, bunches of frisia, acacia, 
&c, till our carriage was full. 

I forgot to say that one of those girls who turned out to 
be Miss Fish, daughter of Hamilton Fish, came in our car- 
riage, and she and Laura were wild with excitement and pelted 
back with all their might. Mr. Morgan was in an ordinary 
carriage in the Parade. We went round and round a park 
the size of an ordinary city block. People also threw flowers 
from balconies on all sides. I was constantly hit on the head, 
but it was great fun. 

They didn't want to come away, but I thought an hour 

was enough and wanted to follow Mr. King. When we came 

to the landing Miss Fish said I want to pay a third of the 

carriage and I said wait until later as I didn't know how much 

it would be. 

521 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

That evening Mr. Meyer of New York, a big blond man, 
asked me to play "bridge." I think it was to please Mr. 
Fowler as he and his wife have been playing with Senator and 
Mrs. Ingalls. So he and I and Miss Ingalls played and I 
came out ahead. A Mr. Thomson of Baltimore, who looks 
like Pickwick, took his place at the other table. He said he 
knew all about the Rosengartens and asked me if I were 
Harry's wife. This Mr. Thomson has white hair and a bright 
red face and a beaming countenance. 

Last night the stars and groups of small stars were won- 
derful. You could not imagine anything more impressive 
than the great smoke stacks at night and the immensity of 
this ship as one walks on the great upper deck at night. It 
seems so strange not to have been any more seasick than when 
on land. Of course I wish you were all here to enjoy it with 
me. Commodore Smith of the N. Y. Yacht Club asked Laura 
to go with them on a tour of inspection of kitchens, pantries, 
&c, &c. 

We land to-morrow in Gibraltar and must post these letters 
to-night as a ship is leaving for New York, at once, so you will 
get this as soon as possible. We are glad of a chance to get 
on land for no matter how good a ship is the land is better. 
Some people get off here to make a tour through Spain. 
People tell me it would be necessary for women alone to have 
a courier so I have given it up, but it is a great temptation. 

Hoping you are all well and that nothing startling has hap- 
pened since our departure, with much love for all of you, and 
greetings to the girls. 

Yours affectionately, M. D. R. 

Mr. Fowler takes the best of care of us and I think my 
companionship has meant something to Mrs. Fowler. We 
shall miss each other as they will go to Cairo. He has a pass 
on all the Egyptian railways and is going to Assouan by rail. 
I have no doubt we shall fall in with some one on our way to 

Sicily. 

522 



EN ROUTE 

After Gibraltar, S. S. Celtic. 
Ash Wednesday, Feb. 28th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

We arrived yesterday at Gibraltar and posted our letters 
as a ship was just about to leave for New York. 

We got off early and went first to the fortifications and 
were conducted by a soldier as far as outsiders are allowed to 
go, and had a fine view. The coloring was exquisite, water and 
sky a deep blue and the mountains purple. Some went over 
to Algeciras to lunch and see the room where the Commission 
sits on the Morocco treaty. Mr. Morgan was lunched by 
Andrew D. White but I didn't think it was worth while to go 
over there on an uncertainty. 

We drove all through the Alameda, or public park, and 
the flowers were beautiful. The deciduous trees are only now 
leafing out. We found we were near the home of Lewis 
Neilson's cousins so stopped to call and found Mrs. Oman at 
home. She seemed very glad to see us and showed us the 
house and garden, which are perched on the steep hillside, the 
garden in terraces higher than the house. They had a mag- 
nificent Bougainvillea vine with stem about 8 inches thick. 
The fig trees were only coming out and she told us they had 
so many figs they gave them to any one who asked. They 
had a magnificent view out over the water from house and 
garden. She was the only one at home, her sister and daughter 
having gone into the town. She invited us very cordially to 
stay to lunch, but as we had promised to lunch at the Hotel 
we declined and the ship sailing at 4 p. m. we could not go 
for tea. 

It being Shrove Tuesday, by afternoon the streets were full 
of people in mask and every one was throwing paper confetti 
and squirting rose water. No one missed us and we were well 
peppered. The Arab market was very interesting, full of 
Arabs and you can imagine Laura's delight. Mr. Thomson 
from Baltimore bought her an orange basket filled with man- 
darins and walnuts and dates. In the evening Mrs. Lathrop, 

523 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

who is a sister of Thomas Nelson Page, showed us some lace 
she had bought and I was sorry I had not got some doilies to 
go with my Maltese centre piece, but it was too late. 

I have wondered who Mrs. Lathrop was and she turned 
out to be a person Mrs. Fowler was to be sure to meet. To- 
night is the usual concert for the Seamen's Home. Laura has 
been busy selling programs and has done well. Mr. Hollins 
gave her £i for 4 programs. I have not dressed and may not 
go down, but will give her money to put in the contribution 
plate. 

They got rid of many tons of freight at Gibraltar, meat 
and sacks of grain and the ship is rolling more than it did, 
also 47 people and their baggage were taken off. A gale was 
blowing there which we did not feel in the town, but made a 
very rough trip in the tender going and coming. We are very 
tired of the ship, Mrs. F. and I, but Laura and most of the 
men say they don't want to get off and would like to go on for 
another two weeks. 

We are meeting lots of ships now and we passed near the 
Deutschland and communicated by wireless but did not see 
her. To-morrow we will pack and get our fees ready. We have 
decided to go to the Grand Hotel at Naples and I shall write 
to the Palace Hotel, Rome, for prices. 

Care has flown away and I find myself thinking of you all 
without association with dates or engagements. I suppose 
we cannot hope for a letter for a week or so. Every day I 
wish you were along and am sure you would have enjoyed it 
so far. 

With much love. 

Your aff., M. D. R. 




ITALY 



Grand Hotel, Naples, 
Friday, March 2nd, 6 P. M., 1906. 

Dear Frank and All, 

I suppose we are lucky to have a room at all, but you can 
imagine disappointment on arriving at this Hotel at 5.30 to 
be told we could not have a room before 8 p. m., and 17 
francs at that. Naples is crowded now and we found it cloudy 
when we got up this a. m., so that the view of the Bay was 
not what I remember. Vesuvius was obscured by a heavy 
cloud, but we hope for better things to-morrow. 

Every one says there never was such an experience as our 
landing today. It took 4^ hours to get the luggage out from 
the ship. It was raining most of the time and as we were not 
thinking of rain we had packed our rain coats and rubbers 
away and we had to go out in the rain to hunt our trunks, 
which were dumped out on the stone dock. All the men were 
so kind but I managed by myself, going through thousands of 
pieces of baggage until ours were all found. We were terribly 
tired of the ship and poor Mrs. Fowler looks with dread on the 
approaching trip to Alexandria. 

Even in the rain the streets were beautiful and filled with 
flowers, the big stiff bouquets of camellias and violets I re- 
member so well from my first visit. This hotel is superb, kept 
by Germans and very expensive. We sat down in a glass- 

525 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

roofed palm garden to have tea and I confess to being more 
exhausted than I ever was in my life. Laura almost went to 
sleep sitting up, but the tea revived us and whom should I see 
but Mrs. Coles, with her husband and daughter. They are 
going to-night by steamer to Palermo. It may be their room 
we are waiting for. 

At the last moment Mrs. Fowler met Mrs. Lathrop of 
Chicago, whom she wanted to meet, — she is the sister of Thos. 
Nelson Page, and I found that she and the McBirneys were 
the party the Houghtelings were coming with. Also another 
lady I have admired and had exchanged greetings with, 
turns out to be Mrs. Stewart Brown of Pittsburgh, the people 
Mrs. Wister told me to be sure to meet. 

I shall go to Turner's to-morrow but can scarcely hope to 
have letters. The Hambourg has not yet arrived. The 
Biddies must be worn out, as their ship is not steady like the 
Celtic. I must go to dinner and will finish this to-morrow. I 
will try to write later. 

Naples, Sunday, March 4th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

After all I did not get the letter off so will continue. The 
first night I sat down to dinner next to the Admiral Jewells 
and we had the nicest talk. They were here only for the night 
and went to Rome in the early morning. Then at lunch Mr. 
Stewart Brown of Pittsburgh, Mrs. Dr. Fox's brother,introduced 
himself and while we were talking who should appear but Gen- 
eral and Mrs. Patterson of Albany, and the daughters. I went 
over to speak to them and they were most cordial, said they 
had come on the Hambourg with the Drexel Biddies who had 
told them we were here and they were hoping to meet me. 

We arranged to go to the Opera last night. Othello was 

given and we got a box. When we returned we had a great 

surprise in seeing a great stream of red lava on the side of 

Vesuvius — they said it is 150 ft. wide; the effect is wonderful 

and uncanny. 

526 



ITALY 

After two days of warm rain we woke up this a. m. to 
find it crystal clear and cold as Greenland, so at last Laura 
has seen the beauties of the Bay of Naples. It was beautiful 
beyond words, marred only by a very strong cold wind. We 
went today to the Cathedral and after up to Hotel Bertolini 
for lunch. To get to this Hotel you go through a long tunnel 
and then go up in a Lift and there are terraces with tables 
to sit out of doors to see the wonderful view. We now are 
expecting to start on Tuesday, lunch at Pompeii and drive 
from there to Sorrento to spend the night. 

I am taking Cooks' tickets to save trouble and there is no 
time limit, i. e., we can stay as long as we please in any one 
place. The Hallowells have gone this eve by boat to Palermo. 
I wouldn't have done it for a kingdom — the water is in a per- 
fect fury. 

We never want for attention. Gen. Patterson introduced 
a Mr. Lard from Albany, who is also going to Sicily. We 
have our steamer trunks ready to go to Paris by slow freight 
and will leave our two large trunks here and take only small 
luggage to Sicily. They ask $40 a day for automobiles here 
— it has become a very extravagant place, and the streets are 
full of magnificent autos and women wear fine jewels, indicat- 
ing plenty of money. With much love for you all, and always 
wishing you were here, where you would have every comfort 
and enjoy the society of lots of nice men. 

Most affectionately, M. D. R. 



Imperial Hotel, Sorrento, 
Tues., March 6th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

I wonder if you remembered that yesterday was our 33rd 
wedding anniversary and missed me a little! I am in a con- 
tinual state of disappointment that you are not with us. 
Yesterday was the most perfect day imaginable. Blue sky 
and sea and warm and the views showed up to perfection. 

527 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

As I had to spend the morning at Cooks' getting my tickets 
for Sicily, and doing a little shopping, I felt we must accom- 
plish something in the afternoon, so I got a good comfortable 
carriage at the Hotel and started for the Virgil side of Naples, 
Pozzuoli, Cape Misense and Baise. When I was here three 
years ago they told me the antique grotto at Posilipo was 
closed, but we drove through it, turning to the left from the 
new grotto and finding all my old memories revived. It is 




GROTTO OF POSILIPO, NAPLES 

much higher and narrower than the new one and very impres- 
sive. Beyond it you see real Italian life, i. e., people living, 
moving and having their being in the street, along with pigs, 
donkeys and chickens. 

We went up to Solfatara and saw the sand boiling and 
the steam was pouring out of innumerable crevices. The 
town of Pozzuoli, with its old port of Caligula, and its villas 

of Cicero and Sallust, &c, &c, and interesting Roman remains, 

528 



ITALY 

gateways, walls, &c, is delightful — such air, and the delicious 
spring smell is in everything, wild sweet alyssum, yellow and 
pink daisies, thyme and lots of sweet flowers. We drove on 
to Baise and past the Lucrene Lake to Lake Avernus, with all 
its legends and went into the grotto of the Cumsean Sybil, 
which is now full of water, and the men carried us across on 
their backs. 

Part of the original frescoes and mosaics remain and there 
are wonderfully large Roman bricks in the walls. We had not 




SORRENTO 



time to go to the hot baths of the Roman Emperors, where 
the water is heated by the volcano, but took a drink of Fal- 
ernian wine, which must have been better in Horace's time. 
We sat awhile with Gen. Patterson and family, before going 
to pack, and found they were also coming to Pompeii to-day. 
I got to bed very late as I had to go through the ordeal of 
packing some small pieces to take with us and leaving the 
larger trunks at Naples and did not sleep well, so to-night I 
am very tired and going to bed early. 
34 529 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We started for the station this morning at what seemed a 
long time before, and it is well we did, as our horse fell and we 
had to wait while they unharnessed it and got him on his 
feet. He was not properly shod and slipped all the time. We 
were pursued by boys offering us enormous bunches of violets 
and camellias for I franc, and finally got to the station late 
and had an exciting time getting the baggage weighed and 
put on the train. 

The Pattersons did not come until a later train, but we 
met at lunch. Laura went in to Pompeii with some people 
we knew. A man in the party read the Latin inscriptions very 
easily and made it thus more interesting. I did not go as I 
have been twice and was very tired, but we started off in a 
little carriage immediately after lunch for Sorrento and words 
fail me to describe the beauty of this coast in the afternoon 
lights of such a perfect day as this has been. 

I fortunately had telegraphed for rooms for the people 
after us were turned away. We have an enormous room on 
the sea side of the house, perched directly over the water at 
the top of a high cliff. The pink lights on the snow mountains 
and the blue of sky and water, you must imagine. 

The Tarantella is now being danced down stairs and Laura 
is seeing it, sitting with the Stewart Browns of Pittsburgh. 
If it is very smooth to-morrow I shall be tempted to go over to 
Capri as it can be very disagreeable when rough and thus 
it will not have to be missed in case the weather is not 
propitious on our return from Sicily. The Pattersons go to 
Rome on their return from Psestum. 

I had a very nice letter from Mrs. Fowler; they did not 
get into the Grand Hotel at Rome, but into the Excelsior. 
She said she missed me all the time and was always expecting 
to meet me. I certainly miss her very much. I think I must 
spend a few days at Taormina to rest, as we led rather a 
strenuous life at Naples. 



530 



ITALY 

Amalfi, March 7th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

I take this up at bedtime, having spent an hour playing 
bridge with Gen. Patterson's wife and daughter and another 
lady and then going out to see the view by full moon. I 
finished writing last night at bedtime. We walked around the 
town all morning and then started in a nice double carriage 
for this place. I expected the drive to be beautiful, but it was 
more than I imagined and to think that in addition to the 
beauty man has done nothing to disfigure it, as in our country. 



HOTEL DES CAPUCHINES, AMALFI 



We have had absolutely perfect weather, so you can im- 
agine the sunset lights on the wonderful mountains and the 
sea. It is impossible to describe it and no picture I have ever 
seen can do justice to it. I have noticed the change in type 
of features in the people since leaving Naples. They are 
beginning to look like the Sicilians, darker and thinner and 
paler than the Neapolitans, who are of a more robust type. 

We found ourselves put out on the main street and we had 
to climb up 270 steps. There were chairs, but I preferred to 
climb, but it was pretty hard, only at every moment I had to 

531 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

stop to look; everything white plaster and showing off the 
greenery to the greatest advantage. When I got to the top 
I found Gen. Patterson. His family had gone to Ravello for 
the afternoon but got back at dinner time and we sat next to 
them at dinner and on the other side a Mr. and Mrs. Van 
Anden of New York, friends of theirs. 

They go on to Sorrento and we take in Ravello as a sort 
of side trip to La Cava and Psestum. The next two days 
will be hard, as we have to take a midnight train from La Cava 
to Messina after a hard trip to Paestum. We hope to spend 
three days at least at Taormina — it seems necessary after a 
few days of travel to rest. 

La Cava, Friday, March 9th. 
After our long trip from Amalfi by the way of Ravello I 
was too tired to write last night, as we had to get up early to 




RAVELLO 



make the trip to Paestum. We preferred to do the two with- 
out returning to Amalfi for lunch, which would have meant 
climbing up those awful stairs again only for lunch, so we took 
our luggage and climbed a high hill to Ravello for lunch. 

532 



ITALY 

If ever there was a spot like heaven it is Ravello ! The view- 
was just as beautiful as Amain and we found a perfect Hotel, 
Pension, where the food was perfection and where the most 
perfect cleanliness prevailed. The dining and bed rooms 
opened on a terrace garden where daffodils, frisia and 
oranges and lemons were everywhere, and such a view. 
I cannot imagine a more ideal place for tired nerves and 
absolute comfort. 

The object of this drive is to see the wonderful mosaic 
pulpit with supporting columns resting on lions, also the pal- 
ace of the Rufalo family, which has been built around an an- 
cient Moorish palace and has a wonderful terrace and view 
and gardens. I hope sometime to go there and stay awhile. 
It is also the only reasonable place I have seen. 

Taormina, March u, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

I left La Cava night before last and posted a letter with- 
out signing it, but I knew it would be two days before I could 
write again. We are still without any letters from you and 
hope each day to get some, as I telegraphed to Turner in 
Naples to send any letters that he might have received to 
Taormina. 

I think I wrote you about Ravello and La Cava and meet- 
ing the Pattersons at Amain and Van Andens from Brooklyn, 
and our game of bridge at Amalfi. I felt rather alone when 
we drove all the morning from Amain, but the next day we 
took the early train from La Cava to Psestum. The first 
people we met were a Mr. and Mrs. Brown from Worcester 
and she was a Miss Hacker and stays with her aunt Mrs. 
Charles Hacker, across the square from us. Mr. Brown was 
great fun and he and Laura cracked jokes and made fun 
about "pastum" and "postum", so we had a delightful day. 

It took us nearly three hours to get to Paestum, then we 
walked through an ancient gate of the Siren and there were 
the temples on the plain between mountains and sea, the 

533 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

most complete, the temple of Neptune, is almost perfect, with 
inner and outer rows of columns, Doric, the earliest Greek, 
tapering very much to the top. They were once covered with 
stucco and painted. I liked the smallest of all the best, 
Temple of Ceres or Apollo, as it stood a little higher and one 
front was very fine. The third was a basilica; the effect is 
very fine as you see the blue sea from one side, as a back- 
ground, and the mountains from the other. We had taken 




AT P^STUM 



our lunch from La Cava in white bags and had a picnic on 
the altar of the Basilica and we all became very friendly. 
The Browns came the next night from Naples to Palermo 
and we took the night train from La Cava by Salerno to 
Messina. 

After six hours in train to Paestum you can imagine we 
did not look forward with much eagerness to an all-night ride, 
but I was determined not to go back to Naples to start. So 
we went off alone with Cook tickets and in the dark, leaving 
a very jolly crowd at the table d'hote. Much to our amuse- 
ment we were the only passengers on the old fashioned Ameri- 

534 



ITALY 

can sleeping car and had an Italian porter who spoke English 
and gave us our coffee and tea in the morning before we got 
to the boat. 

I was rather alarmed at the situation, realizing that we 
were completely at the mercy of the porter, but I put all my 
valuables in the bed with me, so I would be disturbed by any 
effort on his part to find them. I did not sleep much, but 
looked out of the window, trying to see Calabria. Some one 




HOTEL TIMEO, TAORMINA 



said there was nothing to be seen, but I found splendid moun- 
tain scenery, the railroad high above the coast. 

At 8.30 we got out a little north of Reggio and went across 
to Messina, a very pleasant ride of twenty minutes across the 
straits. The Palermo car is put on the boat and goes right on 
to Palermo. We asked the porter if the train usually goes 
with so few. He said the nights the fast express leaves Naples 
at 1 1 every one goes on that. 

We preferred leaving La Cava at 8.33, rather than at one 
in the morning. It was so warm we sat on the upper deck 
without extra wraps, like an ordinary summer day at James- 

535 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

town. The drive up to Taormina from the railway was very 
warm and we found people wearing linen dresses and straw 
hats. At the Timeo hotel we had to take an unattractive 
room to sleep in last night but to-day moved in to a room next 
to it with two balconies looking out on the sea and Mt. iEtna. 
I am saturated with the beauty, it is on all sides. This hotel 
has gardens on three stories and terraces with columns, roses 
in profusion, gilly flowers, mignonette, orange blossoms, acacia 







SOLFATARA, NEAR NAPLES 



and dozens of other flowers growing in great flaring earthen 
pots along the edge of the terraces with orange trees and palms, 
and we sit out without wraps and have to seek the shade, the 
sun is so hot. 

Mt. ^Etna was wonderful this morning — there was a line 
of light at the foot of the snow which gave it the effect of float- 
ing in the air. I got up late this a. m. and spent the rest of 
the morning moving. 

At four o'clock I thought we would go to the Wood's 
studio, where George and Susie spoke of going and to whom a 

536 



ITALY 

number of people had told me to be sure to pay a visit. Mr. 
Wood opened the door and I told him I had come on the 
strength of mutual friends. He made us most welcome. 
Louise Wood then introduced herself, so I felt quite at home. 
A Miss Kimball sang delightfully, with a very cultivated 
voice, and Admiral Bleecker did some stunts with a marion- 
ette. We met a very handsome young Italian who reminded 
me of Clifford. 

The rooms were full of interesting things and flowers and 
out of the side towards the sea a beautiful terrace of white 




QTELI 



FROM THE GREEK THEATRE, TAORMINA 



cement with seats all around it, and such a view! Yesterday 
we went over to the Domenico convent hotel to see about 
rooms, not being sure we would stay here and found and saw 
the Coles. They thought the sleeping car trip down here 
terrible — they came the night we arrived at Naples. I am 
now torn by a desire to go up to Mola, which looks about a 
mile up in the air from here; there is a village there, but it 
doesn't look humanly possible to get there. Even a donkey 
can go only two-thirds of the way. 

I wish you could see us here and how perfectly beautiful 
and comfortable it is and altho we see snow on iEtna, we are 

537 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

warm as a fine September day, without a cold wind, and yet 
the air is very invigorating. I felt as if we must have a rest 
here after so much travel and so we will not leave for Syracuse 
before Friday. I wanted to make a pension arrangement for 
a week here, but they would not do it. 

By this time you must have got our Azores letters and the 
long wait is over, but we are still without news of you. I do 
hope you are all well and my only regret is that you are not 
with us. 

With much love to all of you and to our intimate friends. 

Affectionately, M. D. R. 

Taormina, March nth, 1906. 
Dear Uncle Frank, 

Just a line or two to tell you we are getting along splen- 
didly and only spending a few centesemi per day (?). This 
is Auntie's 60th birthday but as I didn't know in time to give 
her "twenty-one" slaps this morning, I feel it my duty to 
tell some good jokes on her. 

If you had stood with me in the grotto of the Cumsean 
Sybil on one side of the River Styx and watched Aunt Mary 
cross over to the other side on the back of a small skinny 
Italian, you would have appreciated how perfectly ludicrous 
it was, as the Italian gentlemen and I who stood on the banks 
and watched did. It was killing. No one could thoroughly 
realize how funny it was unless they had seen it, too, as writing 
about it isn't at all easy. 

It was dark in the cave except for a torch and all that could 
be seen of Auntie was a pair of feet sticking straight out back, 
but you could hear her more plainly. Now, of course, the man 
on the banks got the same lovely view of me, but I don't tell 
about that part. 

I notice in Auntie's letter that she refers to valuables in 
the sleeping car. Never shall I forget that experience. I had 
just gotten out of my clothes and was settling down to sleep 
when Auntie called to me in a hoarse whisper. I looked out 

538 



ITALY 

and Auntie with her head enclosed by curtains said in the 
most awe-inspiring tones, "Laura, where are your valuables?" 
Scared, I turned purple! Her tone implied cutthroats, 
brigands and murderers of all sorts. 

Well, my words of wisdom have come to an end. This 
doesn't sound a bit funny to read but Auntie and I have had 
many a good laugh over these different things. 

Sicily is ideal — there can't be anything more beautiful. 
And this hotel is very good, too. 

Give my love to Sam and Clifford and keep lots for yourself 

Aff., Laura Clifford. 

Grand Hotel Villa Politi, 
Siracusa, March 17th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

We were so disappointed to leave Taormina without getting 
any mail, a month to-day since we left and we have not had 
one letter! We now hope they will meet us at Palermo. 
Taormina proved delightful. We had a very comfortable 
room with two balconies, on the sunny side and the food was 
excellent. Miss Wood was very nice — entertained us at tea. 
The Misses Trowbridge, who came over on the ship, and their 
aunt, were very friendly and we played bridge one night. They 
were only there two days and then came on here. We enjoyed 
our rest of six days and came here yesterday, leaving at eleven 
and arriving here at a little after two. 

This hotel is quite a little distance out of the town and over 
wonderful quarries, with beautiful flower gardens on top and 
also way down inside where orange trees seem to have no 
trouble in growing. We met such a funny woman in the train. 
I thought she was English but she turned out to be an Ameri- 
can, a Bostonian, who lives in Rome, an amusing character 
named Miss Carey. We had our lunch together and the time 
passed quickly. 

No one we know is here and we go on to-morrow to Gir- 
genti, where we shall be very uncomfortable but must see 

539 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

the temples. We went yesterday to see the Greek Theatre, 
Roman Amphitheatre and the church where St. Paul spent 
three days on his way to Rome. The perfect weather still 
continues, but the dust is very disagreeable. The almond 
trees are in full leaf, the blossoms being over, and are of a 
lovely tender green; the olive trees are images of distress, so 
old and twisted are they. 

On the way here near Aci Castello we saw the great lava 
beds from Mt. iEtna, a most curious formation, and the Fara- 




THE CATHEDRAL, SYRACUSE 

glioni, the great rocks thrown by Polyphemus, a Cyclops, 
after Hercules. 

The little insects which frequent this part of the world are 
giving Laura a great deal of trouble, and me a little, but that 
little is too much. 

This afternoon we drove out to Fort Euryalus, where the 
Athenians were defeated in their attack on the Syracusans. 
Clifford will remember it and the remains, the walls Diony- 
sius built, but he did not see this hotel which is charming. 
The dining room is new and all in white plaster with fine 

540 



ITALY 

Corinthian columns, much more beautiful than the Bellevue- 
Stratford room, and lovely flowers on the tables, music play- 
ing outside in the garden, where I should think it was 
rather cold. 

I think I shall send a cable from Palermo, if I don't get 
any letters there, because I left exact directions with Turner 
how to send our mail. I am wondering if we will have a good 
night to cross to Naples, they tell awful tales about the cross- 
ing in moderately good weather even. I don't think I would 
have courage to go on a bad night. We expect to be back in 
Naples by the night of the 24th of March and will go the next 
day to Rome. It seems a long time since I saw you all. With 
much love and wishing for you all the time. 

Your affectionate, M. D. R. 

Grand Hotel Des Palmes, Palermo, 

March 21st, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

I did not write you from Girgenti as we stayed not quite 
24 hours, finding the hotel very dirty, food bad and service 
worse, although we were carried in a fine automobile from the 
station to the hotel. We made the acquaintance of the people 
who I supposed were the Boston Higginsons and we noticed 
at Taormina. They felt like ourselves, that the dirt was un- 
bearable and we all came on here in the 2 o'clock train arriving 
at 7.30 in time for dinner. 

We went out by nine o'clock that morning at Girgenti to 
see the temples and were much more impressed by them than 
those at Psestum. The present town of Girgenti, the old 
Agrigentum of the Romans is where the Acropolis was and is 
very high and looks as if it had grown there, so admirably does 
it tone in with the grey of the mountains. Almost half way 
down to the sea and on high plateaus are the temples, first of 
Juno, with only a few columns standing, then Concordia, 
almost complete, except that all decorations of stucco and 
carving have disappeared with time. Then Jupiter, wrecked 

541 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

by an earthquake and colossal. The great columns appeared 
to me as large or larger than the largest Egyptian ones and 
there were giant caryatides upholding the pediment all the 
way around the inside, as large as the giant recumbent 
Rameses. 

It must have been something too wonderful for the modern 
mind to comprehend. There are excursions to Segesta and 
Salinuntum or some such name, where there are colossal 




THE CATHEDRAL OF PALERMO 

ruins, but I imagine the dirt and discomfort would be 
too great for us. We were glad to get into a comfortable 
hotel again. 

In the morning visited the cathedral and the royal palace, 
where the wonderful Capella Palatina is, completely lined 
with mosaic and a roof of Moorish carving. In the afternoon 
we took a carriage for the whole afternoon to go to Monreale. 
On the way out numerous automobiles passed us at frightful 
speed, and at the bottom of the ascent to the monastery we 
were informed that carriages could go no farther as there was 

to be a trial race. 

542 



ITALY 

We found the Higginsons with their lady friend and a Mr. 
Cramer who crossed on the Celtic with us, in the same fix; 
as the dust was frightful we decided to go on in the trolley, 
which we did very comfortably and saw the church and clois- 
ters at our ease. I suppose nothing exists elsewhere to be 
compared to the mosaics of the church and the columns of 
the cloisters. 

On our way back we stopped at the Villa Tasca and saw 
an ideal garden of very rare trees with a little temple having 
a most beautiful view of the mountains back of the city. We 
met the Spencer Biddies also at the cathedral, who are stay- 
ing at the Villa Hygeia, about two miles out on the shore the 
other side of the city. This hotel has a beautiful large garden 
which keeps the rooms quiet and although it is a very noisy 
city we hear none of it. 

To-night we go on an Italian steamer to Naples and will 
go at once across to Capri for over one night and then another 
night in Naples and the next day to Rome, making us arrive 
in Rome March 24th. Not a line have we had and our dis- 
appointment was great, for we cannot understand what it 
means. Perhaps now we will find something in Naples at 
Turner's. We must get off, so I will finish this in Capri. 



Capri, Thurs. eve., March 22, 1906. 
Here we are in Capri and very tired. We got on a boat of 
the Italian line at 7.33, for Naples, having partaken of an 
early dinner and had a talk with Mr. Higginson and Mr. 
Cramer. Fortunately the weather was quiet and it had tried 
to rain but there was a good deal of motion soon after we 
started and we feared we were going to be ill, so went quickly 
to tea. I had had to pay 17 frcs. extra to keep the stateroom 
to ourselves as there was a third berth. We prevented dis- 
agreeable consequences by retiring early and had a very com- 
fortable night and were dressed at seven when the boat landed. 
A man called out Capri and I said yes and in a minute our 

543 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

luggage was in a small boat and in five more we were on the 
Capri boat which we were told would go at 8, but it went over 
to St. Lucia and filled up and left at 9. 

We stopped at Sorrento and a lot of people came on and 
then to Capri. The weather was not perfectly clear but still 
very beautiful, and we were glad to get into this clean beauti- 
ful Hotel Luisisana. We had to wait until after lunch for a 




CAPRI 



room and we were very tired. There has been a furious east 
wind all day and we felt it colder than Sicily, but we went for 
a little walk. After we got into our room and had our things 
put in, we drove up to Anacapri and called on Mrs. Bodine, 
and I have no words to tell you about the villa where she lives. 
A doctor owns it and has built it on old Roman foundation 
walls. Then there was an old church, which he turned into a 
sort of tea and smoking room, and has the choir stalls. 
The garden and the pergola and the corridors of white with 
openings marked by twisted columns which he had found right 
in the ground, and Amphorae, pieces of marbles out of which 
he made floors. 

544 



ITALY 

Nothing I can say can give you any idea of the wonderful 
beauty of this villa and garden and the views. This man also 
owns the Barbarossa castle, some distance above it and an old 
Roman tower. He has built into the walls bits of carving 
and inscriptions. The furniture is perfect and you would 
think it impossible to be comfortable in a house all white tiles 
and white marble, but a few stoves seemed to furnish all 
necessary heat.. Mrs. B. offered us tea and her young son and 




AT CAPRI 



daughter came in. The son just Laura's age and the daughter 
older. 

We arranged to drive up in the morning and climb up to 
Barbarossa castle, but I think I shall back out and rest here. 
We had the young people to lunch and although it was blow- 
ing hard came away in the afternoon boat. I was dreadfully 
ill and went right to bed. We go on to Rome tomorrow after- 
noon. With much love for all of you and still hoping to get 
letters (to-day 23 rd). 

Your aff., M. D. R. 



35 545 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Savoy Hotel, Rome, 
Sunday, March 25th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

Here we are in Rome, but not settled. I posted my last 
letter on our arrival at Naples. I have not yet got over that 
dreadful trip from Capri, day before yesterday. I thought I 
should die but Laura was not sick at all. Fortunately there 
were nice people on deck, she could stay with them. I was 
obliged to retire in disgrace. Glad indeed was I to get into a 
comfortable room and bed for I was wet to the skin where 
the water had burst through a partly open window in the cabin, 
all over me. A good night's rest enabled me to go out yester- 
day morning to the Bankers. 

There we found Clifford's and Fanny's letters, the others 
having been sent to Palermo to care of Cook, but as Cook had 
no office in Palermo I did not get them and have now written 
to the Post Office there to send them here. We had a weary 
ride from Naples here, going to the station an hour before the 
train was to start and having a perfect fight to get a seat in a 
first-class carriage. 

When we arrived at Rome at 9 p. m. there was no omnibus 
of the Palace Hotel, which I had written and telegraphed to, 
and when I got there in a carriage they said they hadn't a 
vacant room, but would get one in the next hotel. We had a 
good supper there and came up to this hotel until Tuesday, 
when we can have a room and bath at 20 frcs. a day. The room 
we have here is on the 6th floor and the elevator will only take 
passengers up and not down and we have to walk down every 
time and also there is a noisy trolley in front. 

I went over to the Palace this morning to make sure of a 
room and saw the one we can have Tuesday. Rome is per- 
fectly full, 500 hotels and pensions jammed and it is almost 
impossible to get shelter. After we said good-bye to the 
Warrens we took a cab and went to the Pantheon, Ara Coeli 
and the Capitol. In between it hailed and rained and sun 
shone, but it is distinctly cold. We went to the Excelsior to 

546 



ITALY 

5 o'clock tea as Mrs. W. said it was the thing to do and I had 
to warm up. It was a great sight. An enormous room filled 
with small tables set out with flowers, lovely china and cakes 
of all kinds, and fine music and people very much dressed. 

Rome, March 26th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

We found a letter from you to-day at Lebasti's the first 
one. We went about in that neighborhood for awhile and 
after lunch went to the Borghese gallery and the garden. 
After, I went to call at the Edwards' and sent in the letter — 
only he was at home, Mrs. E. and daughter being out. The 
entrance is through a garden and the parlor was a very hand- 
some room with beautiful furniture but not palatial. 

Now as to the going home I have special reasons for not 
going home on the Celtic, which you will appreciate when I 
tell you. I cannot think you mean for me to come so soon as 
May 4th, for it means giving up Paris and London. I expected 
to leave here April 4th and it will take at least 10 days to 
make any kind of a trip through the Hill cities to Florence, 
then a week there and on to Venice, 17 days and it will take 
some days to get to Paris. 

We are still here as the Palace Hotel now says they will 
take us in Wednesday. Rome is discouraging. It is impos- 
sible to get any idea of it in one visit. Hoping you are all well 
and you will be generous and not insist on my coming so soon. 

Affectionately yours, M. D. R. 

Palace Hotel, 
Rome, April 1st, 1906. 
Dear Frank and Boys, 

It is so very cold here just now it is hard to think it can be 
April 1st. After summer weather in Sicily we have struck a 
cold wave which is pervading all Europe and we find riding 
about in the little open carriages cold work and think we are 

547 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

fortunate to be in this comfortable hotel where we have steam 
heat in our room. 

We are delighted to get a batch of letters from the three 
of you. Yours were of a more cheerful tone than the first 
ones. 

I think I posted my last letter on Tuesday last, while at 
the Savoy. That night the Browns from Worcester (she was 
Miss Hacker) and we spent the evening together very agree- 
ably. Wednesday morning we went to the Rag Fair in the 




"CAMPO DI FIORI," ROME 

"Campo di Fiori" and found the sun very hot, went to a lec- 
ture by Prof. Reynault at the Palatine Hill, where we tramped 
around with him for two hours, learning much more than 
would have been possible any other way, and having fine 
views of the seven hills. 

We arranged to go the next day to St. Paul's out on the 
Appian and Ostensian ways, to spend the day, but unfortu- 
nately it rained and it was called off. It gave us an early 
start and we took advantage of it to spend a long morning at 
the Vatican. It is quite wonderful what we have seen in a 

548 



ITALY 

week, and as Laura did not seem to get too tired we have 
kept right on and have seen all the great galleries and some of 
the Palaces and all the ruins, except outside. 

I fear we cannot go to Tivoli if we leave on Thursday, but 
unless this cold spell comes to an end it would not be wise to 
go. Yesterday morning we went to the Colonna, Corsini and 
Rospigliosi Palaces, lunched at the Tea rooms in Piazza di 
Spagni, did a little shopping and came back here in time to 
dress and go to the Edwards' Tea, which they left a card for. 




FOUNTAIN OF TREVI. ROME 



Laura met a Miss Conrad from Washington and then we went 
to the table and had a cup of chocolate. I was glad to see 
how they entertain here. 

We see a great deal of the Jewells and iast night went to 
the Coliseum together to see it illuminated with Bengal lights, 
and found it a very impressive sight and there was a very 
fine band playing. I would rather see it however by the full 
moon. 

The Jewells have invited us to go with them to tea at the 
Excelsior and we will go. It is quite a function — one sees 

549 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

everybody. Mr. Lanciani wrote a very nice note saying his 
Father and Mother were in Naples and would be sorry to 
miss us. The Jewells leave here Thursday for Naples and sail 
home a week from Friday. Laura seems to be in fine condi- 
tion and enjoys the food so much and sleeps well. 

Of course while we have worked hard in the day times we 
have had no excitement at night, spending our evenings 
quietly in the Hotel. Rome is much changed even since three 
years. They have made a tunnel under the Quirinal to avoid 
a long detour, and it is lined with shining white tiles. The 
ruins are not as picturesque as formerly, as they are propping 
them up with new masonry and picking out ferns and growth 
of any kind. They are now going to pull down a convent on 
top of the Palatine and some beautiful trees, to dig out the 
palace of Augustus. 

We have not seen any of the Royal family — they say the 
young king and queen are not popular because they behave 
too well and do not cause any scandal — they are bourgeois. 
They went to see Buffalo Bill and got so excited they stood up 
and screamed at one part of the performance. We were sorry 
we did not know of a gala performance at the Opera, with 
king and queen present, last Tuesday night. 

The streets are full of splendid autos, all with limousine 
bodies. I am envious all the time. 

I am writing to a hotel in Florence recommended by the 
Jewells, and where the Caseys are staying — Anglo-American. 
People think we were very smart to get in here. 

I have not got Countess Adelmann's letter — had planned 
to go by Munich via Botzen and Innsbruck from Venice, but 
shall wait to get your letters at Florence or Venice in answer 
to my question before. 

I must post this to-night. My best love to all of you and 
hoping you are all well and will write often. 

Affly., M. D. R. 



550 



ITALY 

Palace Hotel, Rome, 
■r April 3rd, 1906. 

Dear Frank, 

Your 8th and 9th letters came yesterday and we found them 
on our return from a hard day's sightseeing. We spent the 
morning at St. Peter's going around it carefully from end to 
end and into the Sacristy, where we saw wonderful embroid- 
eries and all the silver gilt candlesticks, &c, wrought by 
Benvenuto Cellini and used only on high holidays, also the 
fragments of Malazzo di Fiorli's frescoes from the ancient 
basilica underneath. 

In the afternoon we started out again and went to the 
Coliseum, roaming through the great arches at the back where 




THE APPIAN WAY, ROME 



one gets a more adequate idea of its size than from the centre, 
then to the Baths of Titus and the golden house of Nero, the 
former on top of the latter, and then to San Clement's which is 
considered to give one the best idea of the early Christian 
church. I thought it just like a Jewish synagogue, with a 
marble fence around a middle place with beautiful pierced 
places (screens) in marble and lots of old mosaic. The read- 
ing desks were of plain marble supported by columns and as 
Jewish as possible. 

551 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We then bought a few more photographs and I got you 
some gloves and then we came home. To-day we made the 
excursion called "a day with St. Paul," which means you go 
out on the Appian way, &c, with a Prof, who lectures. A 
landau came for us at ten and we have just got home at five. 
We began with the English cemetery, which is very much 
changed since I saw it before, the ilexes have grown tremen- 
dously and there are some beautiful monuments, that of Story 
to his wife, his last work. Next came the tomb of Caius 
Cestius like the Pyramids but smaller, and the Aurelian wall, 
then a long drive to the Basilica of St. Paul, which it will 
take still 20 more years to finish. They are now working on 
the front, adding a court and porch like the old basilicas. It 
is a gorgeous building with five aisles, 4 rows of pillars and the 
whole lined with precious marbles from all parts of the world. 
There are altars of Malachites mounted in ormulu and the 
canopy over the tomb of St. Paul has columns with bases of 
lapis lazuli and portraits in mosaic of all the Popes. 

The archaeologists all agree that there is no doubt about 
Paul's presence in Rome and his death and burial here, but 
they say there is absolutely no evidence of Peter ever having 
been in Rome. 

We went afterwards through a part of the catacombs of 
Domitilla, which are the most interesting of all and have not 
been tampered with. We saw long passages of tombs that 
have never yet been opened and all date from the first to the 
fifth centuries. The frescoes in the little chapels are quite 
fresh. We ate lunch, which we took with us, at the entrance 
of the catacombs, then drove out the Appian way to the 5th 
milestone having a wonderful view of the Alban Hills and the 
Sabine Mts., the latter covered with snow and very cold. 

I was glad Laura could get such a view with the aque- 
ducts in the foreground. Turning we came back by many 
tombs and columbraria and the tomb of Cecilia Metella and 
the Circus Maxentius, through the San Sebastian gate and 
the baths of Caracalla, &c. A church called San Sebastian has 

552 



ITALY 

a very fine reclining marble statue of him with the arrows 
sticking in his flesh and is said to look like the saint when 
they found his body in the catacombs. 

Prof. Tani said he was present when they found the body 
of a rabbi in the Jewish catacomb. He said it was in a perfect 
state of preservation with long flowing beard and magnificent 
vestments and fingers covered with rings. The next day 
some of them went out to take notes and to examine more 
carefully and there was nothing but a few ashes, some larger 
bones and the rings and ornaments. That is why there is so 
little to carry away from the catacombs. 

We have planned to leave Thursday morning for Viterbo. 
Cook could give me no help in planning a trip and told me 
to buy my tickets from place to place, so I am going off in 
the dark. The proper way to make this trip is in an 
automobile, as the distances are short and it would be 
possible to visit two places in a day, arriving at a third for 
the night. 

I forgot to say that when the landau came for us an Eng- 
lishman and his wife were in it and they proved to be very 
agreeable companions, altho we did not learn who they were. 
We are going to-night to hear "Rheingold, l'oro di Reno," 
its first presentation here, and to-morrow we pack in the 
morning and will go out in the afternoon. 

Rome, April 5th. 
Dear Frank, 

I expected to have been in Orvieto to-night but I felt on 
Tuesday night that I was not in a condition to go to such a 
place. I made up my mind to go through a cure yesterday 
instead and leave Saturday, thereby losing two days from the 
Hill towns. 

Mrs. Jewell came in last eve. to say good bye, as they left 
for Naples this a. m. and said the Admiral thought I did not 
realize what discomfort I might have in trying to go to the 
smaller places by train. I feared I might have one of my 

553 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

sharp attacks in some small place where I could not got a 
Doctor, so I will now start off feeling a little safer. 

We enjoyed our night at the Opera. The audience was 
very enthusiastic and the Theatre very large and imposing. 
Many officers in full uniform and the boxes full of well dressed 
people, made a fine sight. The Rheingold was magnificently 
staged, but it was too funny in Italian. They sang it in per- 
fect time all the way through, which is very different from the 
German way we are used to. The Loki or Loge was the only 
one who had an adequate idea of his part and he really acted 
and sang delightfully, but the German Opera is evidently the 
thing here, although it was presented for the first time. I 
saw very fine jewels and magnificent Opera wraps, carriages 
with men in strange liveries, very ornate. 

This afternoon Laura went over to the Savoy immediately 
after lunch to see what the Browns were going to do, and they 
took her with them to San Lorenzo outside the walls, where 
Pius 9th is buried and to some other churches. They went 
entirely in trolleys. 

While she was out I got up to do some packing and I had 
a great surprise when Dorothy Joline walked in. She is look- 
ing very well. I am sorry not to have known before so we 
could have gone about together. She is en route to Naples. 
To-morrow morning I finish packing and send my trunks to 
Florence during the day and we leave at ten the next morning, 
arriving at Viterbo, an old Etruscan town, and have lunch 
and stay all afternoon, leaving at 7 for Orvieto, reaching there 
10.30. I have engaged a room at the small hotel Anglo- 
American in Florence for the 15th. The Jewells recommended 
it and the Caseys are staying there. 

It does not seem as if we could give up Paris and London. 
I have not yet got Countess Adelmann's letter, but will write 
her from Florence that we will have to go straight through 
from Venice to Innsbruck and Paris, without seeing them. 
Laura may never get over here again and I may not either and 
the crossing the ocean is a serious thing, so that when we are 

554 



ITALY 

here we ought to carry out our plan. I will see what can be 
done in Florence. I know I have duties and I came away 
purposely to get rid of them for three months. 

My love to all. I shall expect to hear from you about our 
return. With much love. 

Affly, M. D. R. 

Orvieto, April 8th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

I hardly know how to begin, there is so much to tell. 
Yesterday morning we got up early and went to the Station 
armed with all the necessary information about getting to 
Viterbo and Orvieto. At the station they told us the train 
did not start until a half hour later than we expected. After 
a long wait the ticket office opened and they informed me that 
I couldn't get tickets there, that I must go clear across the 
city to Trastevere. You can imagine my anger and disgust. 
Fortunately the porter who accompanies the omnibus felt he 
ought to see us through and drove us over in the omnibus to 
the station at Trastevere, where we found we had missed the 
first train but fortunately there was another. I had feared my 
trip was spoiled, but it only made us late for lunch at Viterbo. 

What a beautiful ride we had across the Campagna, with 
the snow Mts. in the distance! Climbing up the Cimian hills 
we found we had left the South behind. There were more 
deciduous trees and no more oranges, lemons and pines. The 
grass was full of beautiful flowers of every color, white, pink 
and yellow, and the views most beautiful. As we came to 
Bracciano I could hardly make up my mind to pass by on 
account of the great castle of the Orsini covering the top of 
the hill, a mighty fortress looking down on the Lake of Brac- 
ciano, but on account of the limited time I am obliged to 
scurry through these wonderful places and only hope some- 
time I can go through here in an automobile. 

The next stop was Caprainca, near which is a less ancient 
castle of the Colonna, at Capraola. We crossed the range of 

555 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

hills and then came down on the great Etrurian plain on which 
is Viterbo, still five or six hundred feet above the sea. We 
got out at the Porta Romana and were instantly impressed 
with the immense age of everything. Drove to the Grand 
Hotel and had lunch and found the padrone a most intelli- 
gent man, well informed about the antiquities of Viterbo. He 
told the coachman where to take us and we saw most interest- 
ing things before driving out to the Villa Lante at Bagnaja. 




VITERBO 



The Municipio had a beautiful court on a high bluff over- 
looking the ancient walls and surrounding country, it was 
lined with Etruscan sarcophagi, where the statue of the person 
lies on the side with head raised wearing a turban and hold 
ing a saucer in the hand. It gives one a peculiar feeling to 
see all these people gazing at one in such a sidewise manner. 
We then went to the ancient palace of the Popes, quite a 
ruin with a wide flight of steps and beautiful windows with 
pointed arches and twisted columns and at the side the un- 
roofed room where Pope John 22nd was killed by the ceiling 
falling on him. 

556 



ITALY 

On the other side of the little piazza were ruined palaces 
with beautiful architectural details now crumbling away and 
abodes of the poorest. We drove through the Santa Pelle- 
grina quarter, which must have been occupied by the very 
rich centuries ago, so massive, built of great stones without 
mortar, magnificent doorways and outside staircases, now it 
seems to be given up to the poor and dirty and the smells 
were indescribable. 

A drive of half an hour brought us to a bridge over a great 
ravine and mediaeval round towers forming the angle of the 
town wall reaching way down into the valley, and there, as 
everywhere, the background of blue hills and such a blue I 
have never seen before, only in the pictures of Perugino and 
the painters of his time. As we came out of the hotel at our 
right was the old town wall and a gate with three arches, the 
middle one higher than the sides and through that gate the 
blue hills and pink sky. 

Between six and seven when we went to the station the 
effect was exactly what I have seen in the mediaeval fres- 
coes. They painted what they saw. The Villa Lante is 
located on the slope of the hills back of Bagnaja and the prin- 
cipal street of the town, which is filthy, but full of beautiful 
fountains leads up to the main entrance. There were great 
sweeps of park back of the twin houses which constitute the 
villa, with most gorgeous trees, sycamores, and a tree I do 
not know but seems like a cross between a beech and an oak. 
A beautiful parasol pine hung over one corner and wonderful 
fountains with very ancient looking balustrades and statues 
and basins or troughs, flow down the centre from far back to 
the very gate, near which a fountain of four figures life-size 
bronze held up the Delle Rovere coat of arms. We saw one 
of the family crossing the Park and I have since learned it 
was Miss Allen of St. Louis, who married the Duke di Lante, 
but I had forgotten about it. 

We came back to the hotel and had tea and saw two Eng- 
lish women who seemed the only foreigners there, though the 

557 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

proprietor said there had been five American automobiles 
there at lunch time. We did not meet them so they must 
have gone on. 

The train leaving Viterbo at 7.15 got us here (Orvieto) at 
10 o'clock at night, making one change and the Porter of this 
Hotel was waiting for us and we got into a Funicular Railway 




CITY GATE, ORVIETO 



with our bags. The omnibus was waiting at the top and 
brought us quickly here. The room we were shown into was 
like an ice house and we had a great time getting a fire and 
having the beds warmed. The man brought in the most 
remarkable wooden frames into which they put earthenware 
dishes full of live coals and put the whole apparatus into the 
bed. Anyway the beds were clean and we slept well and this 
morning the sun was bright and warm. After breakfast I 

558 



ITALY 

went at once to the Cathedral and found it had not been over- 
estimated. In the first place the location is so wonderful, on 
the highest part of this already tremendously high town, out- 
lined against the mountains with the valley of the Paglia 
between. The whole front is of white marble and gold mosaic, 
the glitter of which almost blinds one in the sunlight. One 
would never tire of looking at it but I cannot give a detailed 
description of it, so lace-like is the carving. 




THE CATHEDRAL AT ORVIETO 



I went inside and found a service going on with a bishop 
seated on a throne and excellent music, Gregorian, I think, 
but I could not stay long as I wanted to see the celebrated 
frescoes in the side chapel of Luca Signorelli. I sat down 
with an English lady and enjoyed them thoroughly; a young 
priest pointed out many interesting details and showed us the 
miraculous madonnas which we had to climb up behind the 
altar to see. It proved to be an ancient Byzantine picture of 
madonna and child, each with gold crowns and not often 
shown. This priest seemed to enjoy all the wonderful small 

559 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

details of these frescoes and showed me some water color 
copies he had made of some of the medallions. I got one, as I 
thought them beautiful and was glad to have such an interest- 
ing remembrance of these Signorelli frescoes. 

He, the priest, said he had sold some in London and that 
Canova had come here to study them for his own work. 
This afternoon we took a carriage and drove to the Forte- 
rezzo, a part of the walls with great towers. I don't know 
how to give you an impression of the height of this place; it 
is fearful to look down over the parapets, there is a lovely 
garden now in the midst of this fortress where one gets the 
finest views. 

Further on was the well of San Patrizio, built by one of 
the Popes to provide water in time of siege, 61 and over 
metres deep and two staircases wind around it. Donkeys go 
up and down with water barrels and it is terribly cold and 
dark. The water they say is excellent. 

The next sight was the Etruscan Necropolis, further on 
and down outside and under the city walls. A girl showed us 
the tombs and told us how her father had discovered them 
when he dug a trench to plant some trees. Then the govern- 
ment has excavated three streets of them. They are of large 
blocks of brown tufa set without cement and were square on 
top outside but pointed inside like the cyclopean arches. 
There were round ornamental stones on top and some of the 
entrances had three doors of solid stone. There are stone 
benches on two sides and on these they found bones and pot- 
tery and metal implements, as they were fitted out for travel- 
ling into the unknown world. The bodies were laid on their 
sides. I think them among the most impressive things I have 
ever seen, — 25 centuries since they were sealed up and no one 
can read the inscriptions cut in the stone of the lintel. Schol- 
ars come all the time to look at them. I am sending you a 
postal card with them on which gives you an idea. 

When we came back to the house it was still early and we 

decided to walk up to the cathedral to see the sunset light on 

560 



ITALY 

the facade. Going inside we listened to the Vesper service 
and a sermon in good Italian. As the sunlight faded the 
candle light threw strange shadows in the church, and the 
choir being filled with priests and acolytes the effect was very 
impressive. Those things you must see to realize. We think 
of going out to see the effect of the full moon on it now. 

I forgot to tell you about the delicious wines we are having 
in this locality. They are celebrated, particularly that of 
Montefiascone, which we saw perched on a very high hill beyond 
the Etrurian plain, as we came on from Viterbo last night. 
It is called Est, Est, Est, because an old Bishop Fugger, who 
was very fond of wine, when he was travelling through this 
country was preceded by a valet who when he liked the wine 
would write on the wall Est, and the bishop only stopped 
where he saw the wine. When the valet came to Montefias- 
cone he found the wine so good he wrote Est, Est, Est, and 
the bishop drank so much he died that night. I like the wine 
so much I would also like to drink as much as I please, but 
must refrain. It is always drunk fresh and they say the Est, 
Est, Est should never be taken down from its hill. 

We leave here to-morrow for Spoleto and Foligno, going 
back as far as Orte to connect with that R. R. Viterbo was a 
more beautiful city than Orvieto but Orvieto is more wonder- 
fully located. 

I am so dead tired I must stop. We hope Laura's pictures 
will turn out well, so you will then see what we have seen. 

With much love for you all and looking forward to letters 
in Florence. Your aff., M. D. R. 

Spoleto, April 9th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

Such a day as we have had. We left Orvieto this morning 
by the Funicular and heard the news of the eruption of Vesu- 
vius on our way down. It is most startling. I only hope the 
Jewells have got through all right. The papers say there 
were three earthquakes in Naples night before last and the 
36 561 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

observatory on Vesuvius and the railroad also gone and one 
town of 10,000 people entirely destroyed. What dreadful 
tragedies! Yet I would have liked to be there. I felt when in 
Naples that Vesuvius was strange, with white snow all over 
the top and the red streaks of lava flowing down. 




SPOLETO 




SPOLETO 



We got out at Orte and had time to get a very bad lunch, 

then took the train coming from Rome and went to Spoleto. 

Two Americans were in the carriage and we became quite 

well acquainted. 

562 



■■•:'••: i ; : ITALY 

Strange to say I did not know the name of the Hotel here 
but the description in "Hill Towns" enabled me to get there, 
viz, an ancient palace and the entrance under a garden. We 
found two English women here and have had great fun with 
them at dinner being joined by a German man. One officer 
was in the room and he went into fits of laughter. The waiter 
came up to us with a great air and tried to tell us that Laura's 
hot water bottle was leaking and did we want "a priest" to 
warm the beds. We couldn't understand a word so the whole 
room tried to explain and finally we discovered the things I 




SPELLO 



have described, that they put into the beds to warm them are 
called "pretre." 

We took a carriage and drove all about and to the churches 
outside, one of them being a perfect Roman temple preserved 
by being built up as a church. The views were too beautiful 
as we drove out of the town on different sides and I wish you 
could be here to see for yourself. The hotel had been the 
palace of a cardinal and had enormous rooms, but without 
fires, so we were not too comfortable. But oh how I have en- 

563 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

joyed the mediaeval buildings, Etruscan and Roman walls 
and the narrow dark streets and gardens on tops of walls! 

In the Municipio of Spoleto we saw some fine old paint- 
ings [by Lo Spagna and in the cellar the floors of a whole 
Roman house of which the walls are gone, beautiful complete 
mosaic floors, better than any in Rome. Another interesting 
thing was the Pelasgic foundations of a part of the city walls, 




FOLIGNO 



a beautiful bridge crosses the Paglia on many arches and at 
one end outside of the city gate was a flat quay. The driver 
told us to see a Roman bridge underneath. One of the guards 
at the gate then lifted an iron trap door on the piazza and we 
descended a long stone staircase and he turned on electric 
light and there were the great arches of a Roman bridge, 
entirely below the upper street. 

We liked our driver and horse so much that we yielded to 
his demand that we drive with him the next day to Assisi in- 
stead of taking the train. So we arranged to stop at Foligno 
and Spello on the way and were up and off the next morning 
at eight o'clock and off in the lovely early lights finding the 

564 



ITALY 

weather perfect. The little horse got over the ground wonder- 
fully and after one stop at a little Roman temple near a foun- 
tain called Clitumnus we drove up to the Hotel Poste and had 
something to eat, it being eleven when we finished. 

I wrote to Countess Adelmann and hope to get a letter at 
Florence. With much love to you all, 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

Perugia, April 12th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

We have finally decided to give up Cortona, as it would 
mean spending the night there and we feel time is getting so 




ROMAN TEMPLE, PERUGIA 

short we must get to Siena to-morrow night. We look forward 
to spending Easter there where we will be able to hear a fine 
service. 

565 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

This afternoon after posting our letters home we went out 
in a carriage to San , Pietro, quite a distance away, where 
all the pictures and choir stalls of Raphael remain in place, 
except the greatest of all, the Assumption by Perugino, which 
Napoleon carried away with him. 

Siena, April 14th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

Yesterday we spent en route, arriving here at ten o'clock 
almost an hour late. I hated to leave beautiful Perugia on such 
a perfect morning but all good things must come to an end. 

Our first change of cars was at Terontola. I noticed an 
attractive German American lady getting into the Florentine 
train with her maid but after the train had left was surprised 
to see her husband wandering around the Station as if looking 
for some one. At first I thought that he must be going else- 
where and thought no more about it, but as he seemed to still 
be hunting I asked him if he was looking for the lady that was 
with him in the train and he said yes. I said I saw her go 
away on that last train. He clapped his hands to his head 
and said My God this is terrible! 

He fairly shook with excitement and mopped his head and 
didn't seem to know what to do, so I told him he had better 
telegraph but he couldn't speak a word of Italian. I said I 
will tell the Capo Stazione and then came the task of finding 
a place to which he was going with his Milan tickets, where 
he could send her word to get off. I had a hard time to get 
him to understand but finally he telegraphed to Arezzo to the 
officials there to put the lady off at Arezzo and I hope found 
her soon after. 

We had heard her call him Ludwig and he looked like 
Admiral Self ridge; he was very grateful to me. Laura has 
had lots of fun over Ludwig and the meeting at Arezzo. 

Our train came along and we went to Chiusi in a half hour. 

Then came the excitement of finding out when the train for 

Siena would come along, and if there was a late one which 

566 



ITALY 

would enable us to spend some hours at Chiusi, which was 
high up on its hill. Fortunately there was no hurry as the 
first train was not due for an hour or so and we had a very 
comfortable lunch and decided to wait over for the 6 p. m. 
train. We took a little carriage and were soon climbing up 
the usual long hill, zig-zag fashion, and saw an interesting 
Etruscan museum and then went off into the country to see 
some Etruscan tombs, not like those we saw at Orvieto — but 
with flat roofs with curious arrangement of stones like a log 
cabin quilt, and with frescoes of red figures on white back- 
ground, and in perfect preservation, subject athletic games, 
chariot races, &c, &c. 

It then began to rain heavily and we went over a terrible 
road on the edge of precipices so I was thankful when it was 
over and we were back at the station, where we packed a 
good lunch of wine and bread, cakes and oranges, in a six-cent 
basket to take with us on the train, being the only food we 
would get. The air was so sweet with all the fresh green 
smells and the grass full of little English daisies and violets 
that it was delightful to drive along looking at constantly 
changing views of the mountains. 

We passed Trevi, on top of its cone-shaped grey and for- 
bidding hill. The wonder is that people were ever able to 
exist on such heights. From Foligno it was only three miles 
to Spello and when we got there the driver told us it was too 
steep for a carriage and so we started on foot through the 
unchanged Roman gate, with the statues still on the front and 
went up steep perfectly paved stone streets to two churches, 
where we saw pictures by Pinturicchio and a beautiful Renais- 
sance facade. A Madonna by Lo Spagna was in a side chapel. 
The pictures by Pinturicchio are his finest works and line the 
sides of a chapel in Santa Maria Maggiore. I think I shall 
never forget the Christ in the Temple among the Doctors. 

After seeing these Laura gave out and I went on alone 
through another Roman arch up to the very top, through 
dark narrow arched streets, till I came out on a little Piazza 

567 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

with a view of the whole Umbrian plain and Assisi in the dis- 
tance and even Perugia and Spoleto far to the south. 

I forgot one of the sights of Spoleto, viz, the Porta della 
Fuga, where Hannibal was put to flight by the Spoletoans. 

1 keep thinking back of the beauty of Spoleto. Soon we were 
approaching Assisi far up on the mountain at the right with 
the long row of arches supporting what was the Franciscan 
convent, but now a boys' school. Instead of turning up to- 
wards it we went to the left where the great church (with 
dome almost like St. Peter's) of "degli Angeli," looms up in 
the plain. This is the church built over the little house 
'Porginneula" where St. Francis started his life with a few 
companions and worked a great reform which brought Chris- 
tianity into the lives of the people when it had become a 
meaningless myth with them, consisting of church pageants 
entirely in the hands of the priests. 

Entering we saw the little stone house which they have 
covered over with a sort of chapel with a fresco by Overbeck 
in the middle of the great church. At one side we saw the 
little garden of thornless roses which never grow higher than 

2 ft. and bloom in May. They had just leafed out. I have 
brought some leaves for Annie and the others, picked from 
these plants. Finally we turned towards Assisi, which looked 
so far away up the Mountain and finally got there about 2 
p. M. 

How our little horse had been able to go all that distance 
without showing any traces of fatigue I cannot understand. 
We had not yet got over the fatigue of climbing Spello and now 
we had Assisi to do, beginning with the great church of San 
Francesco, first the lower church with great low arches cov- 
ered with the great works of Giotto and Cimabue. Such 
wealth of great art can scarcely be digested, it is so over- 
whelming, such delicious coloring and wonderful religious 
sentiment. 

Down below this lower church is the crypt, where St. 
Francis lies in a stone coffin in a shrine, and then there is the 

568 



ITALY 

upper church high up above and opening on another Piazza, 
for Assisi is all up and down. To me it all resolves itself into 
the lower church with its wide heavy and low arches and 
wonderful frescoes. 

In the meantime as we found we would have to leave at 
4.50 by train for Perugia or stay over night at Assisi, we 
decided to drive on to Perugia at 5 p. m. We still had the 
Duomo and the Roman temple and Santa Chiava to see and it 
seemed as if we walked and climbed miles up steep grass-grown 
streets for at last when we had got through and came down 
to the lowest level, which was hundreds of feet up above the 
valley, we were able to do nothing but get a cup of tea at the 
Giotto.* The Roman temple was almost perfect and is the 
one Goethe preferred to see rather than San Francesco. 

I was so sorry not to go to the Brufani Hotel here (Siena), 
as it is right over the parapet and has a wonderful view and 
is kept by an English woman, but I had foolishly telegraphed 
to the Palace Hotel and so had to come here. Our ride was 
most restful and most beautiful and we found Perugia more 
attractive than any other place. I dislike the idea of leaving 
it and hope I may come back sometime. 

In the morning we rested, being too tired to go out, but 
in the afternoon we took a little carriage and drove around 
within the walls, seeing the different gates, Roman and Etrus- 
can, and visited the Etruscan Museum at the old University. 
At five we went to the Brufani Hotel at one side of the Public 
Park, both occupying the spot where the Baglionis and other 
great families had their castles, fought it out and then the 
victorious Pope Paul 3rd (Farnese) overcame them and built 
a great fortress over all this high part and imprisoned and tor- 
tured the Perugians until now the monument in the Piazza 
in front of this Hotel gives glory to Victor Emmanuel who 
delivered them from the rule of the Popes. 

I sat out in the Park gazing at the wonderful sunset light- 
ing up Assisi and Spello and Foligno and coming back leaned 

* What energy for a woman of 60! 

569 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

over the Parapet to see the Porta Marcia, the Etruscan gate, 
imbedded into the present bastion, which descends to the 
winding street. It still has statues in its niches, for it was 
spared by both nobles and popes. 

This morning we went up to the Piazza Municipio, where 
we had to climb to the 4th story to see the museum, with 
Peruginos and Pinturicchios and San Georgios and Bonfigli, 
not so very different from one another but all beautiful. Then 
in the next building, right on the ground floor of the old Col- 




COLLEGIO DEL CAMBIO, PERUGIA 

legio del Cambio, which I suppose was an Exchange, were two 
rooms, the first entirely wood carving, seats like in the choirs 
of churches, and the second a judicial seat and bench of the 
money changers carved up to the ceiling, the rest of it covered 
with Perugino's greatest frescoes, which Napoleon was not 
able to carry away. You cannot imagine anything more 
beautiful and mediaeval. 

The piazza at the side of the Municipio contains a beauti- 
ful carved fountain, one story of marble and one of bronze. 
That side of the Municipio has a fine outside staircase and 

570 



ITALY 

immense griffins, the symbol of Perugia, standing out from 
the wall and from there a narrow dark street pitches down 
between high dark houses to a little Piazza with fine view, 
which is upheld by Etruscan walls, which curve out to the 
right and left. 

We were lucky to enter the Cathedral this morning just as 
they finished a high mass in full pontificals, and then a pro- 
cession went through the church (music fine) and disappeared. 
They then dismantled the high altar and shortly after I saw 
a dozen old men in a sort of linen wrappers take their seats in 
the middle of the church and the Bishop, after much dressing 
in purple and aprons, proceeded to wash and kiss the feet of 
the twelve and put something around their necks. In the 
meantime the chanting was very fine. We are hurrying to 
post these letters so they will get the ship at Cherbourg on 
Saturday. 

We expect to get to Florence on the 17th and hope to find 
letters there as it will have been 11 days since we left Rome 
and letters. What a pity you cannot all be with us to see 
these beautiful things and it is perfectly comfortable. 

We hoped to see those Americans we met in the train 
yesterday at tea, but did not see them. They live in Rome 
and came up here for a short time. If it does not rain in the 
morning we shall drive to San Gimignano, which is 7 miles 
from its railway station and then be left at the station Poggi- 
bonsi in time for the 4 p. m. for Florence, where I suppose 
we shall be for a week. 

The whole population here is out in the Park (the Lizza) 
from six to seven, and it is quite amusing from our windows 
to see them. I get a little homesick when I see American 
young men, but it will soon be all over and I shall be at home 
again. We look forward to letters tomorrow evening and hope 
for only good news after a wait of ten days. With much love 
to you all and hoping you are having lovely warm weather 
like this. 

Most affectionately, M. D. R. 

571 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Grand Hotel Royal, Siena, 

April 15 th, 1906. 
Easter Sunday made us imagine what you were all doing 
at home. We were rather disappointed at the service in the 
Cathedral, as the music was not particularly impressive. The 
church itself is superb, all black, white and red marble and 
magnificently carved inlaid floors, a wonderful pulpit by 
Pisano. The Piccolomini chapel is a work of art, all exqui- 




MONTE OLIVETO, SIENA 

sitely carved marble and near it opens the library of the 
Cathedral in which are the best works of Pinturicchio 
illustrating the life of Pius II. 

After lunch we drove to a neighboring castello belonging 
to a Count Caimoli called "Belcaro" and has a wall with path 
all round and is a fortified place. It dates from the 15th cen- 
tury and has one or two good frescoes on the ceilings. The 
trees were most beautiful and reaching up to the top of the 

572 



ITALY 

walls are kept trimmed so the effect from the outside is an 
enormously high hedge. Inside is a modern country house. 

We then drove on the way home to a suppressed convent, 
which had been bought by a family and used as their home, 
of course they use only one side and around the small court. 
Back in the large Court or cloisters, with the antique well, 
is a chapel with very good pictures, which were all bought 
at the same time and probably didn't cost very much. 

The Lizza is the fashionable garden of Siena and is back 
of our hotel. The bastions of the Fort Santa Barbara are also 
used as a promenade, so we went at six expecting to hear the 
band play as usual on Sunday. There were throngs of people 
but no band. The weather is delightful and I hope will last 
to get us to Florence. We are getting up early to drive to 
Monte Oliveto so goodbye for to-night. I am very tired. 

Siena, Monday eve., April 16th. 

A lovely ride to Monte Oliveto, a great monastery situated 
in the midst of chalk hills with winding roads bordered by 
tall cypresses. It is pathetic to see the great place with only 
four Benedictine monks left in charge. The walls of the 
larger court are lined with frescoes by Sodoma; subjects the 
life of St. Benedict. 

We thought when some automobiles passed us that we 
should have company there but they had all passed on by the 
old road to Rome and we picniced alone, with a very old 
peasant and some dogs. We were most of the time on very 
high ground so the views were fine and very distant. As we 
went by the Roman road we used the Porta Romana, a very 
interesting double gate of mediaeval times. 

A big auto arrived at the Hotel just as we were coming in 
and a quite young American couple got out of it. We are 
curious to know who they are, the young man is very handsome 
and very tall. So many of the people here are in their own 
autos. What a delightful way to travel through the dust. 

As usual bright sunshine and very warm. We have had 

573 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

our windows wide open all day and it is as warm as a May 
day. The rains were sadly needed to lay the dust which had 
become very trying. Everywhere we meet automobiles. 

I hope to arrange to go to Monte Oliveto in one on Mon- 
day. We did not hurry out today but when we were quite 
ready went out on foot up the main Corso which has many 
interesting mediaeval palaces on little piazzas and finally 




SIENA 



came to a flight of steps leading down to the great Piazza 
where is the centre of life here, and renamed as everything in 
Italy is, "Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele." Here is the famous 
"Palazzo Publico" which has always been the seat of Govern- 
ment and has fine old halls with great frescoes and carved 
seats in the Council Hall of Siena. It is a Gothic build- 
ing with a fine tower at one end and called the Maugia and 

574 



ITALY 

a beautiful chapel in the form of a loggia. In the place is a 
lovely fountain by Delia Quercia from 1409. They have re- 
moved the original to the Cathedral Museum and the present 
one is only a copy. Also the pictures have been removed 
from the Cathedral to this same Museum, which we shall see 
to-morrow. 

We shall attend the Easter service there and see the 
Library which is filled with Pinturicchio's finest frescoes. In 
the Academia delle Belle Arte is a whole history of Italian 
Painting, or rather Sienese, beginning with the earliest By- 
zantine Madonnas and Altar pieces and ending with Sodoma. 
Here was his great "Descent from the Cross," a wonderful 
picture, and when you think that he died at 24, it is too wonder- 
ful to believe. His other greatest picture the "Adoration of 
the Magi" is in the church of San Agostino. I write these 
things out in order to recapitulate and settle in my own mind 
where I have seen these pictures for it is certainly confusing. 

The Cathedral is a wonder, on one side two stories high, 
the lower story being the former Baptistery, with a magnifi- 
cent Gothic front. You climb up an enormous flight of steps 
to the left of this and come out on a great Piazza, where to 
the right is the Facade of the Cathedral, also Gothic, but with 
the three gables rilled in with Venetian Mosaic and great 
arches go off to the left, which are all that was left of a nave 
once planned to make the present cathedral only the transept. 

I cannot think Siena as beautiful as Perugia, as the coun- 
try around is not nearly so lovely, and there are no dark 
Etruscan walls or gateways, and seems modern with only 
mediaeval attractions. It will seem strange to get back to 
modern pictures. I have learned to care very much for the 
ancient stiff Byzantine altar pieces with their gold halos and 
gold backgrounds and soft colorings. I will write again about 
what we see tomorrow. You can read the description of Monte 
Oliveto in Bourget's "Mr. Saint," which I have somewhere. 



575 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Anglo-American Hotel, Florence, 

April 1 8th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

You can't imagine how surprised the Caseys were when 
we walked into the dining room last night, and we were glad 
to be with friends again. I sent you a postal from San Gimig- 
nano, where we spent three hours seeing the Cathedral and 
Palazzo Publico and Podesta. What was more interesting 




SAN GIMIGNANO 

were the old palaces of families now come to an end. The 
highest nobility were entitled to two towers, the lesser to only 
one. The towers are enormous square ones built very high 
and no windows until at least the 3rd story, a queer idea of 
comfort to only begin to live above the third floor. Even the 
picture galleries in this part of the country are on the 3rd or 
4th floor. 

This hotel is small and full of very nice Americans and 

576 



ITALY 

English. It has a palm garden which is really the only place 
they have to sit in the evenings and it is quite gay after dinner. 

I had written some time ago to both White Star Line and 
Hamburg-American and found letters here last night, which 
were not satisfactory, so went at once to the offices this morn- 
ing and cannot get anything but inside staterooms before 
May 24th. I am telegraphing so as to do the very best. 

I was so glad to get all your letters and it seems to me you 
are very gay, going to so many dinners with bridge, &c. I 
am delighted that you are being invited so much. I hoped 
one of your last letters might be an answer to mine in Rome, 
but it was not. 

Of course at Paris it may be possible a stateroom would 
be given up on some of the ships. Countess Adelmann wrote 
that they would be angry if we did not stop and said to come 
by Innsbruck and Munich, where Mechtilde is. I don't see 
how we can spare the time but might give up two days. We 
shall stay here a week — have been in the Uffizi all afternoon. 

With much love to all of you, and looking forward to see- 
ing you all soon. 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

Anglo-American Hotel, Florence, 

Thurs. April 19th, 1906. 
Dear F, 

After going through the Uffizi gallery yesterday after- 
noon Laura and I spent the morning in our rooms, as we were 
absolutely too tired to look at anything, and it was pouring 
rain. While I lay in bed Mary Macauley came and I had her 
come up. She looked very well and stylish, said they are 
quite gay here and have taken an apartment here and do not 
expect to go to America this summer. They have asked us 
to come in for tea Sunday afternoon. 

Florence is lovely — the old Ponte Vecchio is so picturesque 
and I remember it well. I also remembered the Hotel where 
Father and I stayed on the Lung Arno. Every one says it is 
37 577 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

utterly impossible to see Florence in a week, but I think we 
can get a very good idea of it. 

I hope to-morrow to leave my card at Countess di Calry's. 
I got a few large photographs to-day — they are so beautiful 
and here they have wonderful gilt frames for them which set 
them off perfectly, but the difficulty is to get them home. 
That reminds me — we have just heard of the dreadful earth- 
quake in San Francisco and I am very anxious to know how 
the Watsons have escaped. They say Mt. iEtna is getting 
ready to do something. Tell Clifford we were way up at Or- 
vieto when the eruption of Vesuvius occurred. I should have 
liked to see it after the danger was over but I think when the 
people didn't know whether they could get out of Naples 
alive it must have been far from pleasant. They say you 
could see nothing on account of the ashes falling everywhere. 

Of course we are not gay but we enjoy seeing things and 
travelling. Countess Adelmann says you will not mind our 
taking time to stop there, and I suppose we must. I am wait- 
ing to hear from the Hamburg-American about a stateroom. 

With much love. 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

Anglo-American Hotel, Florence, 

April 2 1 st, 1906. 
Dear Clifford & Sam, 

We have had such a beautiful drive to Fiesole this after- 
noon. Being unusually tired we didn't feel like sightseeing 
and found a Mrs. Kelly and her young daughter, whom Laura 
met at York Harbor and who crossed on the Celtic with us, 
willing to share the carriage with us. 

The trees are all out and there was a continuous hedge of 
rose bushes in full bloom, also the Wistaria in bloom. It was 
so warm that after looking at the Roman theatre and baths 
we went to the Hotel Aurora, which has a magnificent view 
over Florence and had tea out of doors and found it as warm 

as a summer day. 

578 



ITALY 

A very slight tremor was felt here this morning. I -noticed 
my bed move with a quick shake, but never thought of its 
being an earthquake until I heard other people talking about 
it. There is great excitement and interest in the San Fran- 
cisco disaster. Some people here in this Hotel have lost 
whole blocks of buildings and for all they know are ruined. 
It seems impossible to get any positive news about the dis- 
aster. 

I wish you could see the superb automobiles here, so big 



THE ROMAN THEATRE AT FIESOLE, NEAR FLORENCE 

and line. People arrive daily at the hotels by dozens in their 
own automobiles. We are sure of a stateroom on the Amerika 
May 25th, but have not been able to get anything earlier. As 
soon as I get to Paris I will try to get something that may be 
given up, but I am hoping your Father will not insist upon 
our giving up London, as it is we would only have a few days 
there. 

My plan now is to go to Venice 25th making a week here, 
leaving Venice 29th for Innsbruck, where we would spend the 
night, and go on to either Munich or Lake Constance, getting 

579 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

to Sigmaringen the next day and, after two days' visit there, 
straight through to Paris by night. That brings us up to 
May 4th or 5 th. 

To-day we went to the old Bargello, ancient Palace of the 
Podesta, which has a beautiful court with outside staircase, 
which you have often seen pictures of, full of interesting 
things. Florence is very attractive and bright. The jewelry 
shops are fascinating on the Ponte Vecchio and in the late 
afternoon the bridge and views over the river, the crowds of 
gaily dressed people, make it a most interesting sight. 

With much love. 

Your aff. mother, M. D. R. 

Florence, April 24th, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

I can take only a moment from my packing to tell you I 
am leaving to-morrow morning for Venice — bought our tickets 
all the way to Paris, by Verona, Brenner Pass to Botzen, 
Innsbruck, Munich, Lindau and Sigmaringen, Schaffhausen, 
Zurich and Basle to Paris. 

I bought a piece of jewelry here and thought I might want 
to use my American Express checks in Germany. I think I 
will take a piece of Venetian glass to Countess Adelmann. 

With much love. 

Your aff., M. D.R. 

Hotel Royal Danieli, Venice, 

April 26th, 1906. 
Dear Frank and Boys, 

Yesterday morning we left Florence with rain threatening 
and cold. We took a rather slow train in order to arrive by 
7.10 instead of 10 at night. Mrs. Kelly and her daughter 
went with us to Fiesole Saturday afternoon, a most perfect 
day, and we had lovely views, everything so beautifully green 
and the purple wistaria in great clusters over the villas. 

580 



ITALY 

Our ride over the Apennines was most interesting, we 
counted 45 tunnels and many viaducts, and it was quite 
beautiful. I gave up stopping at Bologna as it was so rainy 
and it would have made such a very long day. As it was our 
train was late and it was after eight when we arrived, but not 
raining. 

Venice is just as surprisingly beautiful as ever and crowded 
with people. We enjoyed waiting in the gondola while they 
got our baggage — everything was an entrancing picture. 



DOOR OF ST. MARK'S, VENICE 

They had a room ready at the Danieli and we bounced into 
a lot of people very much dressed up and listening to music, 
and as soon as possible got a bite to eat and we went out to 
the Piazza thinking that as it was St. Mark's day there would 
be music, but found only a crowd of people. 

The Campanile is not built up and there is only an ugly 
wooden fence around the spot. This morning we started out 
on foot and went into the Doges' palace and it took us two 
hours to see it. By giving Mrs. Merrick's name at a lace 

581 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

store they took off ten per cent, so I availed myself of it and 
got a piece of rose point I have long wanted. 

I cannot imagine anything more beautiful than Venice — 
fc is entrancing. Laura is crazy over it, thinking it more 
wonderful than she even expected. We went to the St. Maria 
della Salute* and to the Frari to see Canova's tomb and the 
great Titian Madonna enthroned. The Frari was full of scaf- 




THE BRONZE HORSES, ST. MARK'S 

foldings and workmen and the pictures were taken into a 
neighboring church, which we had to hunt up. I did not re- 
member the great beauty of this church, both exterior and 
interior. It dates from the nth century and the carvings in 
tombs, pulpits and screens are exquisite. 

We have gazed at St. Mark's from the outside with wonder 
and amazement and to-morrow will enter and if the day proves 

*Destroyed in 1916 by German aeroplanes. 

582 



ITALY 

pleasant will go to the Lido in a steamboat. The latter are 
everywhere, and I must say interfere with the gondolas and 
the beauty of the water-way. The private gondolas are fas- 
cinating with their flags and queer uniforms of gondoliers, 
which match the colors shown on the great poles in front of 
the palaces. This afternoon we saw Don Carlos and his wife 
in a steam gondola, with Spanish flag flying. They have a 
palace here. It seems to be the thing to have a home in Venice. 
How I wish you could all be here to enjoy this place. 
Laura thinks this the best of all and that each place is more 
wonderful than the last. When we came out from dinner we 
sat in a square hall which has two or three galleries above all 
around and there was a very good company of musicians 
stationed in the second gallery above — some of them men, 
and women also sang very well, so it was quite a concert. It 
is blowing a gale outside and doesn't look as if we would get 
to the Lido to-morrow. 

Venice, April 28th, 1906. 
Dear F, 

When I went to notify the Concierge that I was going to 
take the 8.20 train for Munich to-morrow he asked me if I had 
engaged seats and I said no. I didn't know that one bought 
seats in this country. He said they were engaged weeks be- 
fore so he has telegraphed in great haste to see what can be 
done and thinks I may perhaps get something at Verona, 
where we stay an hour. I can only hope if I cannot get on 
the train to-morrow that perhaps I may be accommodated 
Monday. 

I can't believe so many people can be going to Munich at 
this season. At last the sun shines and we have been in a 
gondola to Murano to see the glass blowers and the Museum. 
The Venezia and Murano company sent us in their gondola. 
The view of the Alps was entrancing, covered with snow. 
I heard an English lady say they had just had snow in Staf- 
fordshire. We think of going out to the Lido this afternoon. 

583 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Last night there were plenty of middies in the Hotel as 
the warship Drake was in with Prince Louis of Battenberg, 
who went to the Hotel de l'Europe where our friends the Kellys 
are. The launches made a great noise early this morning 
gathering them up as the ship sailed away early. 

We shall get no letters now until Paris, unless you by 
chance have written to the Adelmanns. Hoping for good luck 
at Verona, with much love to all. 

Affly., M. D. R. 

The treasures of St. Mark's are inexhaustible and it is un- 
doubtedly the most wonderful, beautiful and interesting 
(architecturally and historically) church in the world. There 
are two wonderful twisted translucent alabaster columns said 
to be from the Temple of Solomon. The great "Pala d'Oro" 
an altarfront never exposed except at Easter and to strangers 
for money. Enameled figures in gold and silver and a mass of 
enormous gems of all kinds except diamonds. There must be 
millions of money in it. Then there is a great slab of granite 
from Mt. Tabor and the most ancient carved pulpits, colored 
marbles, and it looks more like a Jewish synagogue than a 
church. 




GERMANY 

Sigmaringen, May 2nd, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

I hardly know how to begin, having let two days go by 
without writing. We left Venice on the 29th, a beautiful 
summer morning, but on our arrival at Verona, when I went 
immediately to the Wagons-Lits I was told that the through 
train to Munich was full, not a seat to be had, that he had a 
telegram from Milan to that effect. 

Well! I said there are other trains and I want to go on one 
of them, as I must be in Munich that night. He then informed 
me there was no other train, only a slow train at 6 p. M. 
which would get to Munich the next forenoon. Of course I 
wanted to cross the Brenner Pass in the daytime so Laura 
could see the Alps, so I told the man I intended to go on that 
train and he must find a way; that they should feel obliged to 
take us when we had telegraphed two days before, &c. 

I stuck right by him until he said my only chance was that 
there would be some people from the Hotels coming and he 
could put on another car. Finally other people did come, but 
they didn't all want to go as far as Munich, but you can im- 
agine my relief when he said he would put on the extra car 
and gave me my tickets for #9 (45 lire) extra! When it came 
we went immediately to lunch and then were prepared to enjoy 
the scenery which was magnificent. At Botzen we got out 
and bought the best cakes you can imagine and had tea at five 
in our compartment. 

585 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

The snow was far down the Mts., and when we got to 
Brenner-Bad the snow was to be seen far below. On our ar- 
rival at Munich Mechtilde's husband met us in uniform and 
escorted us to the Hotel, where we froze in a big cold room 
ail night without heat. In the morning Mechtilde came and 
said her mother-in-law was coming at once and wanted us 
for lunch. I had accepted the night before to Baron von 
Soden, but found I should go by the one o'clock fast train to 




HOUSE OF PEERS, MUNICH 

Sigmaringen, otherwise we would have to go by a slow train 
arriving at Sigmaringen at midnight. 

There was to be a grand affair in the House of Peers at 
ten o'clock to which they were going and wished us to go with 
them. It was the introduction of the son of Prince Karl 
Theodore to the Peers on taking his seat in the House. 

The royal party came in carriages and we went up to (it 
is snowing hard as I write) the third floor and entered a small 
gallery at the end of the great hall. About twenty or twenty- 
five ladies were seated in it, and before the elder Baroness sat 
down she spoke and shook hands with two ladies at our right 

586 



GERMANY 

and told me it was Princess Karl Theodore, a beautiful woman 
and mother of the young Prince to be presented. 

I wish I could describe the uniforms and orders. The 
Regent is 88, too old to be present, but his son and all the 
young Princes were there and the Ministers and the Peers. 
The President and two others sat at a high desk and one below 
at a table. The two marched down the aisle and all the others 
rose and the young Prince Franz Josef appeared between them 
in cavalry officer's uniform with helmet and plume. 

The oath was read to him and he held up his right hand 




BURG ADELMANNSFELDEN, ELWANGEN, WURTEMBERG 

and said "Ich schware," then he brought his heels together 
and bowed to the President, then to the Ministers, then to the 
Peers and went and took the seat next to his Father. The 
latter I was most interested to see as he is the great oculist 
and does a great amount of good. The Princess helps him in 
his work and reads to the blind people during their recovery. 
She is a grandmother but looked very young. 

Baron von Soden is also a Peer of the Realm, which is the 
reason we sat in the gallery with Royalty. 

Count Adelmann was very much amused at our having 
only two hours in Munich and getting in with Princes and 
Princesses. 

587 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

My tickets from Cook in Venice sent us by Lindau and I 
found I had to come by Augsburg and Ulm, so I went to Cook 
and he said they would redeem the unused tickets in London. 
We came in a fast train arriving at 4.45 — found Count and 
Countess Adelmann waiting for us in the station and Widman 
to attend to the luggage. 




CASTLE HOHENZOLLERN, SIGMARINGEN 

The trees are only budding out and it is wintry cold, but 
the air is very bracing. Mechtilde and her husband saw us off 
at Munich and gave us each bunches of roses. 

It seemed very natural to be walking up through the Park 
and garden with the Adelmanns and everything was as familiar 
as possible. They have made many little improvements, high 
wainscoting through the whole hall, modern plumbing equip- 
ment, Persian rug in my bedroom, &c, but most of all, 
every brass thing and all the pewter mugs and steins were 
polished like silver and the floors thoroughly waxed. 

They were very much pleased with the piece of Venetian 
glass I brought her and Count Adelmann said I had excellent 
taste. I gave him a photograph of a Botticelli from Florence 
which also pleased him. General von Camerer came in the 

afternoon and stayed just 24 hours. We all had great fun. 

588 



GERMANY 

Count Adelmann is very droll. I seem to understand 
German better than I used and Laura got along famously, 
especially with Count Adelmann. The second evening Count 
and Countess Bruhl came to supper. She was a Quadt, sister 
of Count Quadt, who came to Washington, very high rank 
but very shy and simple — you probably remember him. 

The next day they sent their open high carriage to take 
us driving. It snowed hard four times and after we had 
started, but we put up our umbrellas and were rewarded with 
occasional views and it cleared entirely when we got back to 
Inzigkofen. I missed the poor Prince.* I doubt if Count 
Adelmann is as happy as in his lifetime. The castle is finished 
outside and we saw some of the new part. The young Prince 
stays in Berlin where he has a military position. It is a most 
beautiful castle and a joy forever architecturally. 

Baur-au-Lac, Zurich, 6 P. M., 

Thurs. May 3rd. 
We left Sigma ringen this morning at nine and changed at 
Immendingen and then got the finest sleeping car through 




RIVER ALONGSIDE HOTEL BAUER AU LAC, ZURICH 



*The Prince Leopold of Sigmaringen who gave us a dinner in 1897. He died in Berlin, 
having gone to the Crown Prince's wedding. 

589 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

train from Berlin I have ever seen. Compartments perfectly 
ventilated and every detail perfectly carried out. I fear ours 
to-night will not be so good. 

I made a mistake to buy my tickets beyond Munich as I 
had to buy others. I expect Cook to redeem them. We saw 
the great ruin of Hohentviel near Singen (see Ekkehard) and 
had a wonderful view of the Rhine Falls at Schaffhausen, an 
absolutely perfect day and very warm. We have driven around 
this place and have seen the Landes-Museum thoroughly, 
with its real mediaeval rooms taken from different castles and 
houses. We have sat out on the lake front and are now ready 
to take leave. I am going to post this from here and must 
let it go now. Hoping to get a full mail at Paris tomorrow 
morning, with much love to all. 

Affectionately, M. D. R. 




FRANCE 

Hotel Belmont, Paris, 

5th May, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

We left Sigmaringen in the rain with great regret, but it 
cleared at Immendingen and we had a lovely view of the Rhine 
Falls and arrived at Zurich at one o'clock. As we were not 
to take the sleeping car for Paris until 9 p. m. we took lunch 
in the station and then drove around the town and had tea 
in a tea shop and finished up at the Baur-au-Lac and sat out 
on the lake front until six and then had dinner at the hotel 
and took the omnibus back to the station. 

The ride to Paris was a very rough and shaky one, altho 
the stateroom was very comfortable. We got in at 7.40 and 
quickly got a porter and rushed out and secured a little omni- 
bus; then I went back and got the trunks through the custom 
house and in a very short time were on our way to the Hotel. 
The proprietor received us very politely and had a small bed- 
room and large salon ready for us, costing us 35 francs a day 
for all, food included. 

I went immediately to Harjes' and got two letters from 
you and one from Clifford. They told us two gentlemen had 
just been there to inquire but left no name or address. We 
suppose it was Mr. D. and hoped he would have been here 

591 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

to-night but he did not come. We were terribly tired, even 
Sigmaringen did not rest us, for we talked so much there. 
There is some shopping to do and we propose to get through it 
as quickly as possible before doing any sightseeing. It looks 
quite hopeless but Laura must see some of the galleries and 
churches. 

I have sent cards to the Bairds and Rochambeaus this even- 
ing. To-day has been perfectly beautiful. I have no clothes to 
wear in the street as my black cloth is too heavy and it looks 
like hard work to get anything. Paris is so crowded. We have 
not seen King Edward as yet. 

Paris, May 7th, 1906. 

To-day while we were out the Bairds and Rochambeaus 
called. Laura stayed in yesterday. I went to church and when 
I got back Addie Eads Hazard and her sister Mrs. Howe 
called and I ordered tea. 

We went first to the Invalides to see Napoleon's tomb, 
then to the Luxembourg gardens (the Museum was closed), 
then we drove by the Pantheon and St Etienne du Mont and 
then to Notre Dame, coming back by the old Louvre and St 
Germain l'Auxerrois and then to tea at Columbin's. Much 
love to all. 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

Hotel Belmont, Paris, 

May 8th, 1906. 
Dear Clifford, 

I have your letter of April 22nd and note what you say. 
To-day we had tea at Rumpelmeyer's on the Rue de Rivoli 
after a hard day's work at dressmaker's. When we got back 
to the hotel we found the Marquise de Rochambeau had 
called and also Lord Berwick and Miss Noel-Hill. 

It is too bad but we cannot sit in the house this beautiful 
weather in order to see people! There was a heavy hail storm 
while we were in a carriage and we were obliged to sit still 

592 



FRANCE 

until it passed over. Lord Berwick called early which I think 
indicated he tried to find us in, for of course every one is out 
in the late afternoon. I think I shall return their call at an 
hour when there is some prospect of finding them at home. 

I want to get to Versailles and Fontainebleau if possible 
and we must drive once in the Bois de Boulogne. I am very 
tired and must get to bed. We shall go to London either 16th 
or 17th May and sail from Dover 25th, and will soon be home. 
Tell the girls to get the house entirely dismantled and give 
my love to all the family. Hoping to see you all soon, with 
much love. Your aff., M. D. R. 

Hotel Belmont, Paris, 13th of May, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

Such a busy few days as I have put in trying to give Laura 
some idea of Paris, getting a few clothes and trying to see 
friends! Yesterday we spent the entire day at Versailles and 
it was the first really warm sunshiny whole day for some time. 
We took a train from the Pont de l'Alma and had to drive a 
mile to the Trianons where we also walked in the Park and saw 
the thatched houses of Marie Antoinette's Laiterie. Then we 
had lunch at the Hotel des Reservoirs, formerly the residence 
of Mme. de Pompadour. 

It was all ideally beautiful. Going out of the back of the 
Hotel we were at once in the Park and walked up the shady 
avenue to the Palace where we spent three hours and then took 
a cup of tea in the garden of the same Hotel before returning 
to town hot and tired. 

The night before we went to the Grand Opera and saw a 
really magnificent performance of Samson and Delilah with 
Alvarez as Samson and Mme. Heglou as Delilah. The latter 
had a superb contralto voice and was also beautiful. The 
music is lovely and well interpreted by a very large orchestra 
— the chorus was perfect and " mise-en-scene " faultless. With 
all that a superb ballet which gave a sort of pantomime ballet 
after the Opera and you can imagine how fine it was. 
38 593 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Two Hindoo women in most gorgeous gold embroidered 
veils and clothes sat near us. We walked out between the 
acts so Laura could see the house and had some orangeades 
and cake between the Opera and Ballet, arriving home after 
one o'clock. You see how independent we are. 

The night before we had seen the Cid at the "Francais" 
beautifully acted, but we were glad to stay in last night. 
This morning we made a good start and went to St. Sulpice, 




AVENUE DU BOIS DE BOULOGNE, PARIS 



where Widor is the organist and heard magnificent playing of 
real church music, a fugue of Bach's played to perfection. 
After service we walked over to the Luxembourg Gallery and 
saw its contents, then I stopped at the Madeleine to let Laura 
walk through it and then home. 

We fixed up a bit and went to Mrs. Hazard's to lunch 
where her sister Mrs. Howe is staying. Her son is in the 
Latin Quarter with a young Mr. Tilson who is studying the 
organ with Widor and a young artist Mr. Cobb who were all 

594 



FRANCE 

at lunch, as well as Mrs. McKinley and her niece Miss Filley, 
so we had a very gay lunch. I was glad for Laura to meet 
some young people. 

I had a carriage come for us to drive to the Bois but none 
of the party could go along so we went alone, and as Mrs. 
Hazard gave us tickets for the Puteaux Club, Isle de Puteaux, 
we drove there at once, passing through Neuilly. The Put- 
eaux Club is the swellest in Paris and as on Sunday the other 
resorts are filled with objectionable people it was delightful 
to be able to go there. We had to cross the river in the queerest 
little flat ferry boats that ran on a cable by a crank. 

The island was beautifully green and we were early enough 
to get a good table and watch the crowd of French, English 
and Americans. Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt and Gladys came. 
They didn't seem to know any more people than we did. After 
a stay of an hour we came away. 

We took the usual drive around the Cascade and the Lakes 
and with the chestnut trees in full bloom, some white and 
some pink, you can imagine how beautiful the Park was. Un- 
fortunately the automobiles making such noises and smells 
ruin it all. To-morrow I have asked the Rochambeaus and 
Mrs. Hazard and Mrs. Howe to have tea at the Ritz, and we 
are to dine with the Marquise Wednesday evening, our last in 
Paris. Mrs. Baird asked us to have tea with her Saturday 
but we had to go to Versailles and I asked her for to-morrow 
but through a misunderstanding of the maid she thought we 
were going to her. Thursday morning we go to Dover, stay- 
ing over night so as to see it and go on to Canterbury Cathedral, 
arriving in London Friday night, the 18th, and then we come 
back to Dover to sail 25th. How glad I shall be to see you all 
again and hope you will meet us in New York. 

With much love to you all. 

Affectionately, M. D. R. 






ENGLAND 



Lord Warden Hotel, Dover, 

May 17th, 1906. 

Dear Frank and Boys, 

We left Paris this morning early and had a very comfort- 
able and quiet but cold trip across the Channel and are look- 
ing forward to a good night's rest. 

Yesterday was a very full day. I met Mrs. Baird and was 
presented to Mme. Marchesi, who was more than kind in her 
reception of us. Then I met Mrs. Hazard and Mrs. Howe 
down town and all went to Viau's for lunch. Then we flew 
home to pack and in the midst of it M. d'Aillieres and Baron 
Boulay de la Meurthe appeared at six and we had to see them. 
They were full of gratitude for our attention to them in 
America. I was sorry I did not let them know at once we 
were in Paris, for when I did at last they were out of town 
and came at once on their return. 

We had a warm reception at the Rochambeau's at dinner 
and we all four (the Count and Countess) packed into a Vic- 
toria and came home together. They could not have been 
more cordial. Both they and the young Frenchmen sent their 
kindest greetings to you and the boys, Fanny and Joe, Lena 
and Betty. I do hope it will be a little warmer for our trip 

596 



ENGLAND 




DOVER CASTLE 




A BIT OF CANTERBURY 

597 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

to Canterbury tomorrow. I am so very tired I must beg off 
and am looking forward to being together again so very soon. 
Hoping you are all well and things going on all right. 

Affectionately, M. D. R. 




CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL 

The Hotel Metropole, London, 

May 2 ist, 1906. 
Dear Frank, 

This is my last letter before sailing and yours arrived this 
afternoon. I do hope Clifford will not go West before I get back. 
I have tried to arrange to go to Oxford, but the weather 
has been so bad I have just written Katy we cannot go. 
Lena's friend Mrs. Greenall has invited us to lunch with her 
at the Empress Club Wednesday. 

Please be at the ship. I must get to bed so good-bye, with 
much love. 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

598 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1910 




FROM THE OIL PORTRAIT BY ALICE KENT STODDARD 



a^AaaoTa Twax aouA ys tiahtsot jio aHT MO-jra 



THE JOURNEYS OF 1910 

Steamship "Cedric," to the Azores, Ponta Delgada, Madeira, 
Gibraltar, Algeciras, Naples; Sorrento, Ravello, Rome, Assisi, 
Perugia, Florence, Ravenna, Ferrara, Padua, Venice, Abbazia, 
Trieste, Fiume, Trau, Spalato, Dalmatian Coast, Zara, Zara 
Vecchio, Zebenico, Falls of Krka, Salona, Clissa, Ragusa, 
Bocche de Cattaro, Mostar, Zablanika, Sarajevo, Gorge of 
the Varenta, Jablanica, Herzegovina, Bosnia, Jayce, Across 
the Balkans, Banjaluka, Gorge of the Urbas, Agram, Buda 
Pesth, Vienna, Salzburg, Munich, Sigmaringen, Chiemsee, 
Zurich, Paris, Aboard the "Cincinnati" and home. 



INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1910 



Aboard S. S. Cedric. . . . .Feb. 16, 

J. Pierpont Morgan Feb. 16, 

Interesting stewardess. . .Feb. 20, 

Sunshine and heat cross- 
ing Gulf Stream Feb. 20, 

Ponta Delgada Feb. 23, 

Beautiful gardens and 

birds. Feb. 23, 

Jesuit church Feb. 23, 

Bullock carts Feb. 25, 

Sledges back to town. . . .Feb. 25. 

Strawberries Feb. 25. 

Diving natives Feb. 25. 

Mr. Morgan buys birds. .Feb. 25, 

Gibraltar Feb. 28. 

Algeciras Feb. 28. 

Spanish Hotel Feb. 28. 

The Alameda Feb. 28! 

Usual Gibraltar oranges. .Feb. 28. 

Sorrento Mar. 5, 

Delightful sunny weather Mar. 5. 

Naples Mar. 5. 

Stone docks built since 
former visit Mar. 

New grotto, Solfatara, 
Pozzuoli, Lerapeum, 
Baise, Lake Avernus, 
Grotto of Cumsean 
Sybil Mar. 

Falernian Hill, promon- 
tory of Nisida Mar. 

Sleeping under mosquito 
nets Mar. 

Ravello Mar. 

Beautiful beyond descrip- 
tion Mar. 

Amain Mar. 

Palazzo delli Afflitili Mar. 

Palazzo Rufolo Mar. 

Sir James Lacaito Mar. 

Influence of the Saracens 
in architecture... Mar, 

Daffodils, violets and 
primroses Mar, 

Cembrone Mar, 

Perfect place to rest Mar. 

Naples Mar, 

La Cava Mar, 

Celebrating birthday. . . .Mar, 

Fine cooking Mar, 

Rome, Palace Hotel Mar. 

Opera of "Iris," Mas- 
cagni conducting Mar, 

Janiculum, Villa Borg- 
hese, and the Pincian. .Mar. 



1900 
1910 
1910 

1910 
1910 

1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 



5, 1910 



607 
608 
608 

608 
609 

610 
610 
610 
611 
612 
612 
612 
613 
614 
614 
614 
614 

615 
615 
616 

616 



5, 


1910 


617 


5, 


1910 


617 


5, 
8, 


1910 
1910 


617 
618 


8, 
8, 


1910 
1910 


618 
618 


8, 
8, 
8, 


1910 
1910 
1910 


618 
618 
618 


8, 


1910 


618 


8, 
8, 
8, 

12, 
12, 


1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 


618 
619 
619 
620 
620 


12, 
12, 
15, 


1910 
1910 
1910 


621 
621 
621 


IS, 


1910 


622 


IS, 


1910 


622 



Pantheon, Raphael's 

Sybils Mar. 

Palace of Prince Massimo Mar. 
Appian Way to St. Paul's 

Basilica Mar. 

Lectures of Prof. Renaud Mar. 
Grand Hotel (Brufani), 

Perugia Mar. 

Vatican, Baron d'Isola. . .Mar. 
Assisi, Spello and Spo- 

leto Mar. 

Florence, Anglo American 

Hotel Mar. 

Excursion to Grassina. . . .Mar. 
Good Friday procession. Mar. 

Off to Bologna Mar. 

Ravenna, Bryon Palace 

Hotel Mar. 

Early Christian relics 

sarcophagi and mosa- 
ics Mar. 

Churches of San Vitale 

and San Appolian Mar. 

Tomb of Galla Placidia. .Mar. 
Venice, Hotel de L'Eu- 

rope Apr. 

Ferrara, old Castello Apr. 

"Burrasca" a hard storm Apr. 
Padua, Palazzo del Rag- 

ione Apr. 

Church of St. Anthony of 

Padua Apr. 

Superb tombs and bas 

reliefs by Donatello.. . .Apr. 
Sunset on the Fagade of 

St. Marks Apr. 

Abbazia Apr. 

Bora blowing Apr. 

Trieste reminds of Hom- 

bourg Apr. 

Abbazia Kursaal Apr. 

Trau near Spalato Apr. 

Beautiful scenery and 

architecture Apr. 

Wonderful giant-like 

men Apr. 

Spalato, Grand Hotel 

Bellevue Apr. 

Fiume Apr. 

Velebit Mts Apr. 

Zara, very beautiful and 

gay Apr. 

Good hotels Apr. 

Beautiful churches in 

Zara Apr. 

Porta Marina and lovely 

Roman bits Apr. 

603 



16, 
16, 


1910 
1910 


622 
622 


16, 

20, 


1910 
1910 


623 
623 


23, 
■23, 


1910 
1910 


624 

62s 


23, 


1910 


626 


27, 

27, 
27, 
27, 


1910 
1910 
1910 
1910 


627 
627 
627 
627 



30, 1910 630 



30, 1910 632 



■30, 


1910 


632 


,30, 


1910 


632 


4, 


1910 


633 


4, 


1910 


633 


4, 


1910 


633 


4, 


1910 


634 


4, 


1910 


634 


4, 


1910 


634 


4> 


1910 


634 


10, 


1910 


63 s 


10, 


1910 


63s 


10, 


1910 


63 s 


10, 


1910 


63 s 


IS, 


1910 


636 


15, 


1910 


636 


is, 


1910 


637 


IS, 


1910 


637 


IS, 


1910 


637 


is, 


1910 


637 


i.S, 


1910 


637 


IS, 


1910 


638 


IS, 


1910 


638 


■ 15, 


1910 


638 



INDEX 



Marvelous costumes of the 

men Apr. 15, 1910 

Sebenico and Zara Vec- 

chio Apr. 15, 1910 

Aboard the S. S. "Split" 

Croat for Spalato Apr. 15, 1910 

Sebenico, different from 

Zara Apr. 15, 1910 

Magnificent Duomo Apr. 15, 1910 

Falls of Krka Apr. 15, 1910 

Spalato Apr. 15, 1910 

Diocletian's Palace Apr. 15, 1910 

Roman Palace and DuomoApr. 15, 1910 
Diocletian's Mausoleum. .Apr. 15, 1910 
A city inside of a palace. .Apr. 15, 1910 
Old town and modern 

city Apr. 15, 1910 

Real tombs of the mar- 
tyrs of the early Chris- 
tian church Apr. 15, 1910 

Clissa Apr. 15, 1910 

Trau Apr. 15, 1910 

Most perfect cathedral . .Apr. 15, 1910 
Old Venetian Fort of 

Camerlango Apr. 15, 1910 

Exquisite views Apr. 15, 1910 

Lovely hedges of haw- 
thorn and purple 

flowers Apr. 15, 1910 

Aboard a Hungarian- 
Croatian boat Apr. 15, 1910 

The Jader, a typical 

Dalmatian River Apr. 15, 1901 

Ragusa Apr. 17, 1910 

Grand Hotel Imperial. . . .Apr. 17, 1910 
Ragusa more perfect than 

expected Apr. 17, 1910 

Old Town, with great 

round towers Apr. 17, 1910 

Ivy covered, and gor- 
geous flowers Apr. 17, 1910 

Men all still giants Apr. 17, 1910 

Like Opera Bouffe, so 

unreal Apr. 17, 1910 

The Brisalje Apr. 17, 1910 

All luxury and no priva- 
tions Apr. 17, 1910 

The Misses Thackeray. . .Apr. 22, 1910 

Cettinje Apr. 22, 1910 

Albanian Mountains Apr. 22, 1910 

Lake Scutari Apr. 22, 1910 

Montenegro Apr. 22, 1910 

Mostar Apr. 23, 1910 

A Turkish town Apr. 23, 1910 

Absolutely beautiful and 

interesting Apr. 23, 1910 

Narenta River Apr. 23, 1910 

Very picturesque, full of 

Mosques and Turks. . .Apr. 23, 1910 

Jablanica Apr. 23, 1910 

Sarajevo, Hotel Europe. .Apr. 25, 1910 



638 

639 

639 

639 
639 
640 
641 
641 
641 
641 
641 

641 



642 
642 
642 
642 

643 

643 



643 

643 

643 
643 
643 

643 

644 

644 
644 

644 
644 

646 

647 
647 
647 
647 
647 
647 
647 

647 
647 



Miss Thackeray, niece 

of the great author . . . .Apr. 25, 1910 648 
Rack and pinion rail- 
way ride Apr. 25, 1910 649 

Over the Karst Apr. 25, 1910 649 

Mostar and the Narenta 

River Apr. 25, 1910 649 

Roinerbrucke Apr. 25, 1910 649 

Constant parade of beauti- 
ful costumes Apr. 25, 1910 649 

First Mohammedan town 

and veiled women Apr. 25, 1910 650 

Austrian officers and 

soldiers Apr. 25, 1910 650 

Marvellous costumes of 

native women Apr. 25, 1910 650 

Women in trousers Apr. 25, 1910 650 

Hot weather lunching 

out doors Apr. 25, 1910 650 

The elite of Mostar Apr. 25, 1910 650 

Jablanica and the Gorge 

of Narenta Apr. 25, 1910 650 

Lovely Inn and Garden. .Apr. 25, 1910" 650 
Nightingales all night. . . .Apr. 25, 1910 650 
Crossing the border of 

Herzegovina to Bosnia. Apr. 25, 1910 650- 

Seeing Turks Apr. 25, 1910 651 

Cr&ssing high mountain 

range Apr. 25, 1910 651 

Sarajevo a large town, 

quite up-to-date Apr. 25, 1910 651 

Officers singing "Gaudea- 

mus igitur" Apr. 25, 1910 651 

Sarajevo Apr. 26, 1910 651 

Museum, Costumes of 

Bosnia and Croatia. . . .Apr. 26, 1910 651 
Curious sensation of stay- 
ing in a place never 

heard of Apr. 26, 1910 651 

Automobiles and electric 

lights Apr. 26, 1910 651 

Old bronchial trouble, 

American pharyngitis . .Apr. 26, 1910 651 
Jayce, beautiful ride from 

Sarajevo May 1, 1910 653 

Turkish villages through 

Bosnia May 1, 1910 653 

Gorgeous waterfall at 

Jayce May 1,1910 653 

Gorge of the Urbas May 1,1910 653 

Banjaluka, Agram May 1,1910 653 

Curious costumes of the 

men May 1, 1910 654 

Budapest, Grand Hotel 

Hungaria May 1,1910 654 

The "Burg" Emperor's 

castle May 1, 1910 654 

Margarten-Insel May 1,1910 655 

All sign boards in Hun- 
garian Language May 1, 1910 655 

Rain at Budapest May I, 1910 656 

Comic Opera "Graf von 

Luxemburg" May 4,1910 657 



604 



INDEX 



Faust at the Grand OperaMay 

Hof Burg May 

Tyrol, Linz, Salzburg.. . .May 
Munich, Grand Hotel 

Continental May 

Glad to get out of savage 

Europe May 

Joy at reaching a good 

hotel May 

Vienna May 

Rain and bitter cold May 

Munich May 

Schonbrunn May 

Picture Gallery and 

Frauen Kirche May 

Alte Residenz May 

Death of King Edward a 

shock May 

Sigmaringen May 

Chiemsee May 

Visit to Graf Adelmann. .May 



4. 


1910 


657 


4, 


1910 


6S7 


4, 


1910 


658 


5, 


1910 


658 


5, 


1910 


658 


5, 


1910 


659 


8, 


1910 


659 


8, 


1910 


659 


8, 


1910 


659 


8, 


1910 


659 


8, 


1910 


659 


8, 


1910 


659 


8, 


1910 


659 


8, 


1910 


6.59 


8, 


1910 


660 


4, 


1910 


661 



The Castle finished May 14, 

Paris, Hotel de Crillon. .May 14, 
Hotel former Palace of 

Due de Polignac May 14, 

Secured passage on Cin- 
cinnati for May 27th . .May 14, 
Pre Catalan and Armen- 

onville May 14, 

Hotel de Crillon May 16, 

Versailles May 16, 

Hordes of automobiles . . .May 16, 
Hideous fashions in Paris May 16, 
Tea with Countess Rene 

de Rochambeau May 19, 

Marquise de Rochambeau May 19, 
Lunch for Mrs. Gorton at 

Durands May 19, 

Play "L'Attaque du 
Moulin" by Erckmann- 

Chatrian May 19, 

Mme. Delna, a great 

contralto May 19, 

Home on the "Cincinnati" May 19, 



1910 661 

1910 661 

1910 662 

1910 662 

1910 663 

19 10 664 

1910 664 

1910 664 

1910 665 

1910 665 

1910 666 

1910 667 



19 10 667 

1910 667 
1910 667 




EN ROUTE 
On board S. S. "Cedric" off New York, 
Dear Frank: Wednesday, February 16, 1910. 

The mail leaves in ten minutes and I have been standing 




ABOARD THE "CEDRIC" 

in line ever since you left. I hope you saw us, but we could 
not see you, try as we might. You will be amused to learn 



6o7 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

that Pierpont Morgan is on board; no doubt that is why they 
would not furnish a list until the ship started. 

The sun is shining brightly and all is pleasant. Tell all I 
could not write on account of having to be so long in line. I 
shall now go down and get out rugs and cushions and neces- 
sary things, and hope to spend the afternoon on my chair, 
which is not on the highest deck, but the second one. 

With much love, and thanks for your great generosity, 

Yours aff., M. D. R. 

P. S. — I shall write you often, but it will be three weeks 
before you can hear from us. Try to get Laura to go to see 
"Griseledis." 

Onboard S. S. "Cedric,"- 
Sunday, February 20th, 1910. 
Dear Frank: 

Here I am writing for the first time in the writing room. 
I have been in to dinner for the first time since Wednesday; 
yet I have not had the slightest twinge of sea-sickness and 
I attribute it to the Metchnikoff tablets, as I don't see how 
it could be anything else. 

This ship is wonderfully steady and there is practically no 
motion at all and we have had the hall port-hole open most of 
the time. Our stewardess is most attentive and is quite an 
interesting person, the wife of an English clergyman who died 
of consumption, and she was obliged to do something to stave 
off a similar condition. We have been either in our 'chairs on 
deck or in bed and have not met anyone. It is not nearly as 
gay as on the Celtic. 

We land in the Azores on Tuesday morning. Have had sun- 
shine every day and were uncomfortably warm crossing the 
Gulf Stream, which we are out of today. We shall be glad to 
get on land for a while, but the time will not seem long from 
now on. I can't get over it, that in spite of my fatigued con- 
dition, I have not had a touch of seasickness. 

The Captain has not taken any notice of us, but the Second 

Steward sent us word that we could have anything cooked to 

608 



EN ROUTE 

order. We found Betty's basket of fruit a veritable treasure 
house, and a delightful box of candy from Mrs. Jordan. I 
shall write to both. We sit at the first table from the door and 
Pierpont Morgan has the small table in the outer corner. I 
shall probably write you about our landing at the Azores and 
Madeira before closing this, so will just say good night. 

Onboard S. S. "Cedric" 
Wednesday, February 23rd, 1910. 
Dear F. 

This is just like sailing on a river, there is so little motion, 
and the sunshine is hot. We are expecting to land at Madeira 
to-morrow to spend the day. Yesterday we spent three or four 




PONTA DELGADE 

hours at Ponta Delgade, Isle of San Miguel, Azores. It had 
been very stormy on Monday and we feared we would not be 
allowed to land, but a north wind cleared the sky and the sun 
shone out hot. 

We went ashore with some people we did not know and a 
gentleman joined us in a carriage for an hour. He turned out 
to be a Mr. Gorton, of Chicago. 
39 609 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

j a ; We we nt first to a wonderful tropical garden filled with fern 
^almsand rubber trees, camellias and frisia; and wonderful 
tropical birds were singing with all their might. It was like a 
little glimpse of heaven or the Garden of Eden. We saw a 
curious Jesuit church with wonderful deep wood, carvings; the 
whole chancel being. filled with them, also immense landscapes 
made entirely of old Spanish tiles. 

When we landed we came with two turns of the small boat. 
Where the arches are is a building covered with old blue tiles 
and the arches covered a walk, and on each side steps led down 
to the water. The gallery was filled with peasant men and 
women with the gayest colored handkerchiefs and aprons, caps, 
etc. Then off" to the left the ship entrance from the landing to 
the main street was through three pointed arches decorated 
with the Portuguese coat of arms, making a very picturesque 
effect from the water. 

We drove up to Mrs. Brown's where Laura and I had lunch 
in 1906 and they told us they were not prepared and could not 
give us any lunch, but they recommended us to another place 
in the town and we got an omelette and some little birds and 
fruit. Most of the ship people came there. 

An elderly woman at Pierpont Morgan's table, who seems 
to keep them all amused, judging by the shouts of laughter 
after her speeches, is a Miss De Puyster Carey. These are all 
the people we have learned to know by name. Friday I will 
tell you about our day in Madeira. Now I am tired and will 
go out on deck. 

Madeira, February 25th, 1910. 

Such a heavenly day as we had yesterday. The sun was 

hot and strong and the air just cool enough to temper it. We 

landed at Madeira in steam launches and took the bullock 

carts up to the railroad station and found a train just starting. 

We went through banana groves and palms and fern palms, 

and saw exquisite gardens with giant trumpet flower vines in 

full bloom; also bougainvillea in great masses, wall flowers, 

acacia trees in full bloom, and every one was charmed. 

610 



v EN ROUTE ; 

I hope sometime to spend a month here in this perfect 
climate. We walked in the gardens of two hotels. where there 
were fountains and large bushes of white azaleas, and wonder- 
ful views of the water, 2000 feet below; then we each: got in 
hammocks and were carried on narrow paths higher up to the 
church for the view, and then to the hotel, where we lunched. 




GLORIOUS MADEIRA 



Some of the ship's stewards had been sent up to wait on us, 

and we ate out of doors with odors of Araby, and the finest 

views in the world. And Sam said we would be cold; how I 

wish you could all be here with us. 

After lunch we sledged down to the town again and then 

took a bullock cart up to the Casino and back. Then we sat 

down at little tables on the street leading to the water and 

6n 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

had tea, and it was so gay. Mr. Bodine was with us and we 
bought strawberries, which fortunately we did not eat, as the 
moment Morton saw us he made us throw them overboard for 
fear of typhoid, as there were some cases at one of the hotels 
at Madeira. 

It is all much gayer than when we were here before, streets 
filled with people sitting and walking, parrots and macaws 
screaming, new hotels and lovely parks, bastions, flowers and 




MADEIRA 



sunlight. The contrast with my last sight ol Philadelphia is 
too great to admit of description. 

When we came on board, the decks were covered with 
natives selling all sorts of things, and boys were diving for 
money, some climbing way up to the highest deck and diving 
from there. Everybody was entranced and hated to leave. 

Mr. Morgan has bought birds at both the Azores and here 
and has his room full. He has a great aviary, one great cage, 
in his home in New York, and just turns them loose in it. I 
never see him on deck, only at his meals. One lady at his 
table is going to Dalmatia in April, taking only her maid. 
Perhaps we shall meet her, but I do not rely upon that. 



612 



EN ROUTE 

Even at night we have the fresh air blowing in our faces 
and we dress with port-holes open. 

I feel it such a pity that you are all breathing that foul 
Philadelphia air when you might be here. Will write after 
Gibraltar telling our experiences there. This ship is so high 
out of the water that it is amazing it don't roll more, but I 
haven't a qualm. 

Much love to all and hoping to hear soon. Have written 
Morgan Harjes to send Mail to Naples to Thos. Cook & Son. 

Affectionately, M. D. R. 

On board S. S. "Cedric" Sailing from Gibraltar, 
Monday, February 28th, 1910. 
Dear Frank: 

I should have written yesterday to tell you of our day at 
Gibraltar, but it was so rough that almost as soon as I was up 
I had to go back to bed to avoid being actively seasick. About 
noon, as soon as we got under the shore of Sardinia, it quieted 
down and I got a nice salt bath and dressed, and now they 
are going to have a dance on deck, and we land early in the 
morning at Naples. 

Our day at Gibraltar was quite different from what we 
planned. Billy Neilson had told Maria that General Oman 
would probably send out a tug for us to take us ashore and 
entertain us, so we were ready early, prepared for anything. 
The enquiry man told me there was a note for me, and I said 
"yes, I expected it" but he couldn't find it. Then he said he 
had sent it to our state room by a steward, but not one of the 
stewards would acknowledge having received it and no one 
could find it. 

In the meantime, we had to get ashore by the last tug or 

not at all. We had been invited by Judge Saunders to go on a 

special tug to Algeciras for lunch, so we went over to the dock 

and there I tried to get Dr. Oman's house, as we were told 

there was no General Oman, but it was impossible to get 

any answer and as we did not know who had written the note, 

613 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

we went off at 12.30 for Algeciras and found a wonderful 
Spanish Hotel, built with courts and gardens, and such a 
view of the Rock! We had a perfect lunch. It was all like 
fairyland. I would have liked to stay a month. 

The English women were all in linen suits. When I came 
back, through the town of Gibraltar, the Alameda, and out to 
Europa Point, I bought my usual orange basket at the mar- 
ket, where Laura will remember the delicious dates we got. 
I hope we may find some letters at Naples, though I doubt 
it, as you probably did not write at once on your return. 

I have my packing to do, so with much love to you all. 

Amy., M. D. R. 

P. S. — I will write from Naples. 




ITALY 



Imperial Hotel, 
Sorrento, Saturday, March 5, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

I hope you will remember this is our 37th wedding anni- 
versary! 

We arrived here last night quite worn out — but after our 
long drive — it was delightful to arrive at a warm, comfortable 
hotel, and have a delicious dinner and a big fine room, and this 
morning to look out on one of the most wonderful views in 
the world, the water without a ripple, like glass, and the 
mountains covered with snow. It was impossible to tell their 
summits from the clouds. 

To-day we have spent strolling about in the hot sun and 
went over to the Vittoria. Hotel for afternoon tea, sat out of 
doors in the sun, not a scrap of wind, and growing about us 
forget-me-nots, pansies, frisia, cowslips, banana and palm and 
pepper trees, acacia, camellias and oranges and lemons; then 
on the tiled terrace hanging over the sea, far up above the 
Marina or landing. It is certainly a heaven on earth, it is 
impossible to imagine greater beauty and we are wonderfully 
favored, so far, in having nothing but brilliant sunshine, and 
hoping for a perfect day to-morrow to go on to Amalfi and 
Ravello. 

We landed last Tuesday morning. Fortunately, I had 

615 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

telegraphed for rooms and the man who met us at the dock 
had my name on his list. 

To my surprise, they have built stone docks at Naples 
since we were here last, and we docked at once without trouble. 
As soon as we had lunch (and the food tasted like ambrosia 
after that on the ship) we took cabs and went to the museum 
and spent an hour; then up to San Martino which was as 




SOLFATARA 

lovely as ever, and then up in a lift to the Bertolini Hotel 
where we had tea, sitting on a terrace and having a glorious 
view and sunset, with singing and playing by native musicians 
in costume. Then we came back and down to the Grand Hotel 
again and had a perfect dinner. 

The next day we spent the morning in Naples over our 
trunks and resting and took lunch early and went in a landau, 
for the whole afternoon, out through the new grotto, through 
the hill of Posilipo, over to Solfatara, Pozzuoli, where we 
went to see the Amphitheatre, a splendid ruin, with a piece 

616 



ITALY 

of the Appian way leading up to it, and to the Lerapeum, a 
perfectly beautiful ruin half under water, which by an erup- 
tion of Solfatara, was let down under the water and when the 
Monte Novo was created by an earthquake hundreds of years 
after, it was raised up again, but has sunk a metre in the last 
hundred years. 

Then we went on to Baise and returned by Lake Avernus 
and Grotto of the Cumsean Sybil, Lake Lucrinus and the Fal- 
nernian hill and the hot baths of Nero. En route among other 




THE AMPHITHEATRE, POZZUOLI 

wonderful views was that of Nisida, a promontory almost 
detached from the main land, and a glorious sunset all the 
way back, and through the Grotto Antico where the Roman 
legions marched through, and all unchanged. 

Each thing we see is more beautiful than the other, and 
so it goes en. I had written from Gibraltar to Morgan Harjes 
to send our mail to Thos. Cook & Son, Naples, but we did not 
get any mail there. I took Cook tickets for the round trip to 
La Cava and return by train to Naples, and hope to get to 
Rome the same day. The utter silence here is such a rest for 
the nerves one cannot realize it at first. We sleep under mos- 
quito nets, and that alone makes it seem like summer. 

617 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

I wonder what you are; all doing, and think of you hived 
up in the library, all smoking and with black snow outside, 
and wish you were here, where you could be out in this wonder- 
ful air all day, smelling oranges and flowers, and the birds 
singing all the time. 

Hoping to get letters forwarded from Naples. 

Affectionately, M. D. R. 

Hotel & Pension Palumbo, 
Ravello, Tuesday, March 8, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

If I only had words to describe the beauty around me; it 
is indescribable. The sea is like glass and this rocky coast 
stands out in wonderful sharp lines; way beyond stretch snow 
capped mountains. We are looking at it from the terrace of 
the hotel, 1100 feet above the water. These lines are cut by 
cypresses and pines, like dark green velvet, and the old towers 
of the palaces are mostly ruins. 

There were thirty-five thousand people in this town once, 
and Amain was a great city trading all over the world. This 
house was the Bishop's Palace, and the Dependance was the 
property of the Confalone family and above is the Palazzo 
delli Afrlitili, and both of them 1100 years old. A Mr. Reid 
many years ago bought the Palazzo Rufolo just below this 
and has turned it into a Garden of Eden. 

He and his wife did a great deal to elevate the people 
around here, but both are now dead, and while the nephew, 
Sir James Lacaito, keeps up the place, he is a busy man in 
England, and only comes here for the month of April. 

The influence of the Saracens is felt here in the architec- 
ture, and there are wonderful pulpits in the churches, of mosaic 
and twisted columns. Wherever they dig, they find treasures. 

We sit in the morning on this terrace, which has a stone 

bench tiled all around the edge, and it is high up above the 

surrounding ground, and there are lovely daffodils and violets 

and primroses all about us, and over our heads rose vines with 

618 






ITALY 



big yellow roses and ivy everywhere. Things are just budding 
out; deciduous trees, etc., and grapevines; but there is so 
much green and so many flowers that one doesn't miss them. 
We are going to walk to the Cembrone, a sort of promon- 
tory facing up the valley towards the mountains, with a 
wonderful view. It is just the rest I want. It is absolutely 




A BIT IN RAVELLO 



quiet. The air is perfect and the eye is satisfied. You must 

come here sometime with me. 

It is quite gay at lunch time, when people drive up and 

take lunch here. In the evening, we sit around a table and 

read. They have fires here in my room and in the dining 

room and we are quite comfortable. It is very cold at bed 

time, but in the morning we have the hot sun and a fire and 

dress comfortably. I can't bear to think of leaving, but I 

619 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

suppose we will go on Saturday or Sunday, as direct to Rome 
as possible. 

We have our first mail, your letter of February 17th and 
postal of 1 8th. You did not say a word about who used the 
Opera box that Tuesday night. We think of you always, 
wishing you could share our pleasure. 

We must get off, so good-bye, with much love and hoping 
to hear from you at Rome. 

Amy., M. D. R. 

P. S. — You have the itinerary, which tells you as nearly 
as possible where we will be. 

Grand Hotel, Naples, 
March 12th, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

This is my birthday and I am sure you have thought of it.* 
We left Ravello at nine this morning in just the same per- 
fect weather we have had continuously — warm and lovely, 




AMALFI 

and drove down almost to Amain, then turned off to La Cava, 
arriving there at 12.45 an d took the train to Naples. 



Her sixty-fourth birthday! 



620 



ITALY 

Our carriage was almost full of men and I soon gained 
from their talk that they had been off on some enterprise. 
Two young engineers and two Italians. The young men were 
Germans and spoke Italian and English as well and helped 
us install our packages. 

We got here and found a comfortable room; then as it was 
my birthday we celebrated it by tea at Bertolini's. So we 
drove up and then went up in the lift and on to the Terrace, 
and once more had that wonderful view of the Bay of Naples. 
We couldn't get in to the Palace Hotel at Rome and Mrs. 
Johnson was good enough to get, through the Proprietor, 
rooms for us at the Windsor. Rome is terribly crowded, so 
we are thankful to be assured of a roof over our heads to-morrow 
night. 

I am so dead tired I must go to bed, but I didn't want to 
go without letting you know of our safe arrival here. We 
have your letters (two mails) and Laura's written a few days 
after we left. Am glad you enjoyed the Opera. 

How I wish I could bring back the cook; there is never 
taste or smell of grease about the cooking, and it is so dainty 
and digestible! We have much to learn at home. I shall not 
do much sightseeing in Rome. I will let you know as soon as 
we are settled. 

With much love to all, and hoping Cliff and Sam will write 
sometimes to me. (My letters are for them as well as you). 

Affectionately., M. D. R. 

Palace Hotel, Rome, 

Tuesday, March 15, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

Since I wrote you from Naples on the eve of the 12th, we 

have your letters telling of your knowledge of our arrival at 

Naples, etc. I wrote Maj. Landis that we would be at the 

Windsor Hotel just below here, but on our arrival, we found 

the Porter from the Palace Hotel, saying they were going to 

take us in here, for which we were glad. I have had a slight 

621 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

bilious attack so did not go out to-day. Maj. Landis and his 
wife are coming to call at 6.30. He writes he had a jolly; letter 
from Col. Shore and enclosed a note to me, in which I am 
commanded to come to India without delay, written in Shore's 
usual joking way. 

We may go one night to the Opera to hear "Iris" with 
Mascagni leading. Sunday afternoon on our arrival, we drove 
to the Janiculum and through the Villa Borghese grounds and 
the Pincian. The weather was perfect and I thought it best 
to utilize it, and fortunately, as it has been overcast to-day 
and yesterday. 

Rome, Wednesday, March 16, 1910. 

The cab drivers have been on a strike for two days and it 
is difficult to get cabs. This p. m. we are going to the Pan- 
theon and Santa Maria della Pace to see Raphael's Sybils, 
and perhaps to the Capitol Museum. We have just come back 
from the rag fair where we went with the Johnsons, and met 
a Mr. Graham, who has lived here for years. 

He sent us round the corner to the Palace of Prince Mas- 
simo, where there is a chapel that is opened only once a year. 
We went up a narrow staircase and got into a frightful crowd 
of peasants and priests, and all sorts of people, and had to 
come down without seeing it, as we were afraid we would be 
shut in for hours. 

I should have told you first that Reynolds Landis and his 
wife called yesterday at 6.30 p. m. and we were waiting in 
the smoking room for them. I had written from Naples Satur- 
day, and they only got my letter Monday evening, and they 
expressed great regret that they had not got it in time, as their 
day at home was Monday afternoon. We are to dine with 
them Sunday evening, and they are to lunch with us at the 
Aventine Hill on Friday if pleasant, if not, on Saturday, as 
that is one of the things to do. They were most friendly and 
she is quite pretty. 

He is trying to carry out Col. Shore's instructions to make 

622 



ITALY 

me cable you that I am going to India and for you to come 
and join us. I told him that it was of no use, that you would 
never forgive me, and that I was not prepared financially, etc. 
Liria will be much disappointed, but I cannot do otherwise. 

To-day we had a short shower, with hail, but when I went 
out at eleven, it was like summer. I bought a great bunch of 
white gilly flowers for 20 cents, the only time I have indulged, 
but they are so tempting. To-morrow we have arranged to 
go out on the Appian way and to St. Paul's Basilica and the 
catacombs. A week is so ridiculously short a time to be here 
one does not know what to do. 

My letters have to be for all, for I do not have time to 
write each one, but I think of you all and wish you could 
enjoy what I am having here, beautiful out of doors. 

With much love to you all. 

Amy, M. D. R. 

Palace Hotel, Rome, 

March 20, 1910. 
Dear Mr. Rosengarten, 

I have thought many times of writing to you, but I have 
not had time hardly to say my prayers. Every moment since 
we landed in Naples has been full of delightful experiences and 
filled to overflowing; and the day at Ponta Delgada, the day 
at Madeira and the one at Gibraltar and Algeciras were de- 
lightful; especially the day we spent at Madeira, a dream of a 
place. Mrs. Rosengarten has written you so fully of our trip 
that you will not want to hear it again. 

I only want to tell you how perfectly appreciative I am 
of all your kindnesses to me, and how grateful I am you have 
made such a wonderful experience possible for me. This has 
been a hard week for me because I have felt I must see every- 
thing of importance. 

I have been able to see things intelligently with a Prof. 
Renaud, a bright, clever man, with a marvelous fund of in- 
formation, who lectures on all the important things of Ancient 

623 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Rome, on the spot, but some of the galleries and churches I 
have visited alone. Mrs. R. has done very little sightseeing. 
She is better than when she left home but seems utterly ex- 
hausted by every little thing that she attempts to do, even 
in the quiet of Ravello she would be worn out by even a little 
walk. 

I have pleaded with her to give up Dalmatia, urging upon 
her the importance of going home strong and well, and have 
tried to persuade her to spend the three weeks she would 
spend in Dalmatia, at Nauheim, or some such place and get 
well. Her digestion is so easily disturbed, as you know, at 
all times, and it seems to me very foolish to go to a place where 
the hotels are said to be impossible. I wish you were here to 
insist upon rest, and not a month of hard travel, and perhaps 
discomfort. Do not think Mrs. Rosengarten is ill, but she 
evidently cannot stand any fatigue. 

I am wild about Rome, it is so full of interest and beauty. 
We are to dine to-night with Major and Mrs. Landis. I went 
this morning to the service at St. Peter's, but it was disap- 
pointing. 

With much love and deep gratitude. 

ArT., Maria. 

Grand Hotel (Brufani), 
Perugia, March 23rd, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

I have so much to tell and am so far in arrears that I 
hardly know how to begin. We left Rome on Tuesday. I 
found the excitement of people and sightseeing very fatiguing, 
I thought it best to keep to my original program. Although 
we were only eight days in Rome, we saw most of the really 
important sights and worked hard. 

I wrote you a few days after our arrival about the Landis's 

calling. I found him quite unchanged and admired his wife 

very much. They went to lunch with us on the Aventine on 

Friday, 18th, at a popular restaurant where there is a fine 

624 



ITALY 

view. We met Mr. Graham, of Pittsburgh, who has a lovely 
home in Rome; is also aa intimate friend of the Landis's. He 
was asked to meet us at the Landis's for dinner Sunday night. 
He then decided to have us to tea on Monday afternoon, so 
we had plenty to do. We went to the Landis's Sunday night 
for dinner and there met Baron d'lsola (who talked Italian 
to me), and Mr. Ezekiel, the sculptor, who has had his studio 
for so many years in the Baths of Diocletian, and must now 
get out of it. He has the loveliest face and is very interesting 
lived for many years at the Villa d'Este with Cardinal d'Este 




PERUGIA AND HOTEL BRUFANI 



and Queen Mother, and the King and Queen are great friends 
with him, 

A pretty Miss Walker (who is staying with the Landis's), 
and Mr. Graham made up the party. The conversation was 
always interesting and the Landis's said they were so pleased 
to be able to entertain one of the Rosengarten family for the 
first time, and they professed the greatest admiration for Joe 
and Fanny and wish they could see them. 

They live in the apartment formerly occupied by the De 

Castros, and have a fine view from their balconies. 
40 625 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

They have many interesting and beautiful vases in metal 
inlaid, which they brought from the Philippines. Monday 
afternoon we went to Mr. Graham's apartment, which is a 
veritable museum, with wonderful Chinese things he got in 
Pekin. Mrs. Ethelbert Nevin poured tea at one end of the 
dining room, and Mrs. Bastienelli at the other. 

I also met a Judge Cochran, now of St. Louis, whose father 
was Judge C. of Pittsburgh, and who said he used to play 
with me as a very small child, and knew father and Clifford 
well. The Browns (Mrs. Fox's brother) were also there and 
some young Italians and the Baron dTsola, who sat by me 




THE CONVENT OF ST. FRANCIS, ASSISI 



at Landis's dinner. The Johnsons and Walkers went with us, 
and we felt very gay and had a hard time getting packed that 
night to leave early on the next morning, but we got off" all 
right Tuesday morning and made the acquaintance almost at 
once of Miss Sergeant, of New Haven. You remember we 
met her brother at the Country Club when Freddie Ford 
introduced him. 

We all got off at Assisi at 2 p. m., and stayed over night 
and we came on in a carriage to Perugia. I wish I could de- 
scribe the beauty of that sunset from our windows, looking 
over the Umbrian Plain, seeing Assisi, Spello and Spoleto, 

with a background of snow mountains. We spent Tuesday 

626 



ITALY 

and Wednesday nights there going over the old sights, and 
are enjoying the Hotel Brufani, where we have front windows 
that look down on the Etruscan gate in the old wall. This 
afternoon we take the two o'clock train to Florence and go to 
the Anglo-American Hotel. 

We are all going tomorrow afternoon at five p. m. to drive 
out to the country to see some procession in costume, some- 
thing peculiar to Florence and Good Friday. We found your 
letter and Laura's, saying you had not heard anything on 
March 12th, which seems very strange. We have written 
constantly. I cannot stop to tell you lots of little things for 
this must be posted, so I will say good night. 

Hoping you are all well and happy. 

With much love to all. 

Yours Aff., M. D. R. 

Anglo-American Hotel, 

Florence, March 27th, 1910. 

Easter Sunday. 
Dear Frank: 

We got here Thursday about dusk and were comfortably 
settled in quiet rooms on the court. As Florence streets are 
very noisy, I am very glad of this. We arranged to join friends 
in an excursion to Grassina, a small village about ten miles 
in the country to see a church procession after dark, Good 
Friday. So we took a substantial five o'clock tea and started 
and had a beautiful drive, which was unfortunately marred 
by the dust, which was excessive owing to the prolonged 
drought. 

It is an old custom to have a procession on Good Friday 

of Roman soldiers and priests bearing a life-sized figure of 

Christ on a sort of Catafalque, followed by children dressed 

in white, and then a lot of mourning women in black around 

a statue of the Virgin. There were crowds of carriages and 

automobiles in a piazza on the village street where the village 

fair was going on, so we went back up the road on the hillside 

where we could see the church. 

627 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

About seven, the moon rose back of the hills just in the 
right place, and soon the torchlight procession started out 
from the church, curving along the hill and descending to- 
wards us; a very good band playing very solemn music and 
the priests chanting at intervals. It was really very impressive 
in the dark, and against that background. 

Your last letters came yesterday; also one from Lina. I have 
had a letter from Countess Adelmann inviting us there. I am 




MADONNA DELLA SEDIA, RAPHAEL 



writing her that I cannot tell so long ahead. We are almost a 
week behind our Itinerary, as we could not possibly go faster. 
It seems such a long time before you got our letters when 
they were posted at the earliest opportunity and we have 
written steadily. I have all your letters although you did 
not put numbers on all of them. They come in clusters. 
Last one is dated March 14th and postal card 15th. I hope 
it will be less expensive in Dalmatia. 



628 



ITALY * 

I find very little time to write to anyone but you. We 
shall leave here for Bologna Tuesday afternoon probably and 




THE GALLERY OF THE UFFIZI, FLORENCE 




INTERIOR OF SANTA CROCE, FLORENCE 

go by Ravenna and Ferrara to Venice, getting there Sunday 

or Monday next. 

With much love to you all and constantly wishing you were 

with us. Affectionately, M. D. R. 

629 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

Byron Palace Hotel, 
Ravenna, March 30th, 1910. 
Dear Frank: 

Here we are in old Ravenna, having had an adventurous 
day yesterday. Last Sunday, as everything was closed, we 




GARDEN OF THE HOTEL BYRON, RAVENNA 

went to call on Miss Reeder Macaulay in the afternoon, after 

going to the Cathedral in the morning. No one was at home, 

but I got a very nice note from Miss Macaulay saying they 

were sorry to miss me and if they could have known I was 

coming, could as well as not have been at home. 

Monday we spent sightseeing. Tuesday afternoon we 

took the 3.30 train by Faurze here. We had to change twice 

630 






ITALY 

and after dark and a very nice young Naval Officer (Italian) 
was very polite, said he was coming here, etc., and made him- 
self very useful. 

Arriving at 9.30 we went to bed as soon as we were settled, 
and this morning started out sightseeing, and did not see him 




THE TOMB OF DANTE, RAVENNA 

again, but found a nice note saying he had been obliged to 
return to Florence. He had just returned from Pekin where 
he had been attached to the Italian Legation in China; said 
he knew many Americans there and seemed to have read 
many of our books. 

I am very much impressed with Ravenna; not with its 

631 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

outward appearance, but with the wonderful early Christian 
relics, sarcophagi and mosaics, the churches of San Vitale 
and San Apollonia date from 300 and 500 A. D. The tomb 
of Galla Placidia was near the former. There were three 
wonderful enormous archaic sarcophagi, and the walls and 
vaulting and dome of exquisite mosaic, and in the church a 
great altar of translucent alabaster. 

This hotel was the Palazzo Rasponi and Byron lived here 
in 1 8 19. At present the heater is out of commission and the 
great barnlike rooms are cold as charity. Our room opens on a 
second-floor terrace, and as it is raining to-night, we must go 
out on this terrace to get to bed. There is a beautiful garden, 
but it turned so cold to-day we could not stay there. 

We have been talking with a very interesting mother and 
daughter (Dutch) who are great travellers, and have been in 
America. They went all over, from Mexico to Canada, in 
three months and seem not to have forgotten anything they 
saw, and to have been much impressed with our country- 
They advise us to see Ferrara during the day and go on to 
Padua, as the hotel is better at Padua and the distances are 
very short, so we shall be in Venice by Friday evening, April 
1st, a few days behind our itinerary. 

I think it doesn't matter, however, as it may be rather 
cold. It must be beautiful here in Ravenna in warm weather, 
the garden is so lovely and the terrace, but there is a sensa- 
tion of desolation about the place, and one would not want to 
stay long unless with a gay party. We will not get your letters 
until next Saturday, when I hope we shall find a large mail. 

I am looking forward to loafing in Venice, and will write 
you from there. 

With much love for you all. 

Your affectionate, M. D. R. 



632 



ITALY 



Hotel De L'Europe, Venice, 

April 4th, 1910. 
Dear Frank: 

I found a letter from you dated March 22nd when I stopped 
at Cook's this a. m. I have written you twice a week and 
sometimes oftener, and you can hardly expect more. I must 
sometimes rest after being out all day. 

I wrote you Wednesday night, and we left Ravenna the 




CHAPEL AND ALTAR OF ST. ANTHONY, PADUA 

next morning in a raging cold storm, which developed into 
snow, as we got to Ferrara, where we lunched and drove 
around, seeing first the old Castello with a moat, a fortified 
castle of the Este family, and also saw some other palaces and 
a cathedral, with fine facade; but it was so cold and such a 
fearful wind, that we got back to the station as soon as pos- 
sible, where we found a stove in the Trattoria and drank tea 
to get warm. They call this storm a burrasca (bourasque in 
French) and it is the worst I was ever out in. Glad indeed 
we were to get to a warm, modern hotel at Padua, where 

633 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

to our astonishment, a huge black porter met us with the 
omnibus. 

A good night's sleep and an excellent dinner put us in shape 
for seeing Padua the next morning. There we admired the 
Palazzo del Ragione, beautiful outside and inside, with a 
wonderful hall, with frescoes, and the Church of St. Anthony 
of Padua, which was full of superb tombs and pulpits and bas 
reliefs by Donatello. An hour's ride in the afternoon brought 




THE FOUNTAIN AND PIGEONS, ST. MARK'S SQUARE, VENICE 

us to Venice, and we found two nice single rooms with heat and 
electric light and fine linen sheets and towels. 

We go every afternoon late to see the sun seton the facade 
of St. Mark's. 

Why do you not come over to bring us home? Meet us 
in Vienna. With much love. 

Affectionately, M. D. R. 




THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 

Hotel Stephanie, 
Abbazia, April ioth, 1910. 
Dear Frank: 

I wish you could see this beautiful place; beautiful al- 
though the Bora is blowing and the sun obscured. The train 
from Trieste stopped away back in the mountains, and we 
had to get out and take a trolley down hill to the town. It 
reminds me of Hombourg, in the character of the houses, but 
there is much more tropical and glossy foliage. It is very 
steep, the houses rising one behind the other out of thick 
foliage. There is a lovely walk all along the rocky coast, 
where there are no ugly wooden things to interfere with the 
beauty of nature. 

We are at an enormous hotel, well furnished, but with no 
heat except in the smoking room, where we are seated at 
present. We had dinner in a large restaurant belonging to 
this hotel last night, quite gay with officers and well dressed 
women, and the cooking was excellent. We had things that 
looked like lobsters, only about six inches long, a pale pink, 
very delicate, and a delicious dessert, not like anything I ever 
had. We are going to take our tea at the Kursaal where the 
Gypsy band is to play. If the weather is all right, we shall 
take an early boat to Fiume and change to the 11 a. m. boat 
for Zara. 

We thought it best to spend Sunday here rather than at 
Fiume, where there is really nothing to see, and I never saw 
a more beautiful place to stay in if one had a party. Of 

635 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

course, it is impossible to say on just what day we will be at 
a certain place, but I will let you know as I go along. 

I find I cannot draw any money on my letter of credit 
after Fiume until Buda Pesth, so I may draw some more 
money, as it will do in Vienna and I would rather have too 
much Austrian money than to be stranded at Sarajevo or 
Agram without any money, so I will probably draw £40. 

Here they speak only German, except an Egyptian who 
speaks English. He is the second colored person we have 
seen on our trip. I hope to get a good mail at Fiume tomorrow, 



._ -.-*^s^^g 








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'^^*t'$*!£' 


"- 


■*y* ' v 


%%H^m& 


lp«r 


' 




■ ■■:«■>:: ,•' 








■ 



ABBAZIA, DALMATIA 



and have ordered the next mail sent to Ragusa. I often wish 
you could be with us but suppose you would be tired out with 
the detail of travel. 

Much love for all of you. Amy., M. D. R. 



Dalmatia, Trau near Spalato, 

April 15th, 1910. 
Dear Boys: 

We are enjoying all this beautiful scenery and architec- 
ture, and especially the people in their wonderful costumes. 

636 



THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 

The men are giants. It is uncommon to meet a short man and 
an ordinary thing to see men from 6 ft. 4 inches to 6 ft. 7 or 
8 inches. Tell Felix he would be a person of ordinary height. 
They are all handsome and look like Romans. We hope to 
get letters at Ragusa. Nothing since Venice. 

Amy, M. D. R. 

Grand Hotel Bellevue, 
Spalato, April 15th, 1910. 
Dear Frank: 

We left Fiume at eleven on Monday morning, April nth, 
the first really clear weather for days and sailed off down the 




Dalmatian coast. We had a nice table d'hote luncheon and 
when we came up on deck, the view made us fairly gasp for 
breath. The Velebit range was on our left, the most pic- 
turesque mountains I ever saw, the softest grey, and above, 
the snow looked like clouds. I haven't a vocabulary to de- 
scribe them. 

At about five we reached Zara, landing at a stone pier, 
jutting out from a long quay, where a line of modern buildings 
stretched along a promenade. No vehicles in sight, but we 
were rejoiced by the sight of wonderful costumes, nurses with 

637 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

baby carriages, etc., Austrian officers in beautiful uniforms; 
it all looked so gay and bright. We had good rooms and deli- 
cious food but no sitting room, which didn't matter, as we 
were always too tired to do anything but go to bed. 

I don't understand why people have given these hotels 
such a bad reputation. When it is cold, of course, the linen 
sheets seem damp, but we overcome that by warming them 
up with hot water bottles and wearing woolen wrappers. 
There are inlaid floors everywhere and good furniture and 
excellent beds. 

We admired the churches in Zara. San Danato was an 




FIUME 



early Christian church built with the ruins of a Roman temple 
in the crudest way, but very impressive; it is now a museum: 
and an old Roman column stands in a square and was used 
for a pillory in mediaeval times. We walked around the ram- 
part on top of the old walls, and enthused over the Porta 
Marina and lovely Roman bits here and there. The next 
morning I went out to see the museum and came across the 
market, with such a riot of color. 

The men wear embroidered vests with red fringe, and the 

638 



THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 

most wonderful little caps, smaller than the English soldiers 
wear, and as they are giants, the effect is most peculiar. They 
have great coats of brown homespun, made all in one piece 
like a kimono with a hood, and the women have big sleeveless 
coats, which are really stylish. 

At eleven we started for Sebenico on another voyage of 
four hours and stopped at Zara Vecchio, where Queen Eliza- 
beth of Hungary was imprisoned and died. We left behind 
the snow clad Velebits, wound our way among many islands, 
having an excellent lunch, and getting very friendly with the 
Captain, who was very proud of his English. The boat was 
named the "Split," Croat for Spalato. 




ZARA, CAPITAL OF DALMATIA 

Finally we rounded an old Venetian fort with the Lion of 
Venice on top, and came into a wonderful harbor, where there 
is a Naval training ship. Our hotel, "The Velebit" was also 
along the quay, and it was a great pleasure to watch the 
middies rowing up and down. There were two fine white 
English yachts there, but we saw nothing of the people. 

Sebenico in Dalmatia was quite different from Zara, being 
on a steep hillside and crowned with two fortresses. The old 
town has a magnificent Duomo, the celebrated church all of 
stone, inside and outside, and a wagon roof; the doors were 

639 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

exquisite, and all the interior details, especially the Bap- 
tistery, which was a perfect gem, although so dark, it was 
difficult to properly see it. 

The next morning we took a carriage and drove to the 
Falls of Krka. There are several, and it takes two to three 
days to see the upper one, so we only saw the lower one. The 
drive was over high, grey rocky hills with almost no vegeta- 
tion, and it was a surprise when we suddenly saw way below, 
the river and green islands fringed with tall slender poplars, 




THE WATER FRONT, SEBENICO, DALMATIA 

and a picturesque old stone mill. Small cataracts in every 
direction were flowing out and down, and it was only when 
we got down below them that we got the real effect. 

Maria took some photos, which I hope will turn out well. 
We ate our lunch on a stone terrace overlooking a farm yard, 
where the little donkeys were trudging up and down with 
enormous loads on their backs, and their drivers were bright 
with color, red caps and wonderful silver buttons in two rows 
down their vests. It was a pretty picture. 

We were tired, indeed, on our return, but took an early 

640 



THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 

dinner and then at six-thirty a train to Spalato, arriving at 
Spalato at ten, and as usual, no vehicles, and we had to walk 
to our hotel, passing by the front of Diocletian's Palace, along 
the water front, and then we got to bed as soon as possible. 
We feared it might rain, so in the morning arranged for an 
afternoon drive to Salona and Trau. We spent the forenoon 
walking through and around the Roman Palace and the 
Duomo, which was either a temple of Jupiter or Diocletian's 
Mausoleum, probably the latter. It is superb, and nowhere 



ONE OF THE FIVE CASCADES OF THE KRKA RIVER, NEAR SEBENICO 

else can one see such a thing as a city inside of a palace. Of 
course, it is only the old town, Spalato and outside there is a 
modern city. It is much more of a city than anything we 
have seen so far. 

Our drive to Salona and Trau was very beautiful but very 
fatiguing, partly on account of the high wind, and partly on 
account of the difficult walk through the ruins of Salona. 
After a visit to the house of Herr Buice, the curator of the 
Museum, we saw the ruins of an early Christian Basilica, and 
41 641 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

at last we have seen real tombs of the martyrs of the early 
Christian church. 

A very curious thing is the way in which these magnifi- 
cent sarcophagi have been broken into by Goths and Vandals, 
and robbers generally, and more curious still the way in which 
these mammoth sarcophagi are wedged in all directions and 
even piled up on top of each other, in their efforts to get as 
near as possible to a martyr's tomb. These things interest 
me very much, especially since I have read Fabiola. One 
wonders how such monstrous things could have been made at 



AT CLISSA 



all, and above all, at the superb carvings; they all make our 
modern tombs look absolutely without merit of any kind. 

Maria and I drove alone to-day up to Clissa, a high barren 
rock away up in the mountains, crowned by an old Venetian 
castle fort, with superb views of the coast. A slight haze pre- 
vented our seeing as far as we might otherwise. 

I forgot to say that after we had gone through a mass of 

ruins at Salona, we took the carriage again and went on to 

Trau, a perfect mediaeval town on an island, beyond the seven 

castelli, which extend along the coast. It is a walled town with 

the Venetian lions over its gates, and with the most perfect 

642 



THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 

cathedral one can imagine. It differs from others in having an 
open porch or vestibule to protect its wonderful carvings 
from weather. 

At one end of the Island is the old Venetian Fort of Camer- 
lango, most beautiful. The views back from Trau were more 
beautiful than I can describe, exquisite soft grey back of the 
green; and all the way lovely hedges of hawthorn and purple 
and white flowers and blue bachelor buttons. The vine and 
fig trees are just leafing out, and the sights and sweet smells 
were delightful. 

Unfortunately, one cannot get away from here except at 
night, so we are leaving to-night on a Hungarian Croatian boat 
for Ragusa, where we are all going to rest and refresh our- 
selves. There are few English speaking people to be met; a 
family of three, whose names I do not know, but no doubt we 
shall meet some at Ragusa, where we also hope to get letters. 

I must stop to go to dinner, so hoping you will all have the 
patience to read this, with love to all. 

Affectionately, M. D. R. 

P. S. — You would perhaps be interested to know, that on 
our drive home, after leaving the source of the Jader, a typical 
Dalmatian river, which flows out of the face of an immensely 
high cliff, and makes a picturesque descent in many water- 
falls, we found soldiers stationed at different points, shooting 
at an imaginary enemy, and others hiding all the way back, 
and some marching, as if reserve forces. 

Grand Hotel Imperial, 
Ragusa, Sunday, April 17th, 1910. 
Dear Frank: 

Here we are at last in beautiful Ragusa, and it is even 
more perfect than I expected! We came by night boat from 
Spalato, and had a very bad night. I awoke at six, an hour 
before we were due to arrive, and in that time, managed to 
be very ill, and we could not get a comfortable room until the 
late afternoon. 

643 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

I had been trying for two weeks to take care of myself, so 
stayed in bed this a. m. We have a balcony, and such a view 
from it, down the coast! great promontories jutting out into 
the sea; then the old town wall climbing steeply up, with 
great round towers, all ivy covered; then such flowers, Banksia 
roses, oleanders, mimosa and arbors everywhere covered with 
wistaria, palms and pines. 

Maria went out to see the country people, who come in 
on Sunday dressed in their best costumes, which have a great 




THE DALMATIAN COAST 



deal of gold embroidery and tissue. All still are giants, and 

here wear a fez or red turban and baggy trousers. One feels 

as if it must be an Opera BoufTe it is all so unreal. Their 

belts are stuck full of knives and pistols, but fierce as they 

look, they all seem very pleasant and good natured. 

I am writing in the reading room, which has a balcony 

with tables and chairs where we take tea. It overhangs the 

hotel garden, and past it flows the life of the city though we 

are outside the walls. We walk down this street and come to 

a little Piazza called the Brisalje, which looks like a scene set 

644 



THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 

for one of Hammerstein's Operas. In the middle a beautiful 
statue, a cafe on the left where all sorts of people are drinking. 
The sea makes the background, coming in between two great 
round towers on high rocks. The old moat, has now been 
turned into a garden, and the old drawbridge into a modern 
bridge. 

This is the first hotel we have found in Dalmatia which 
has a reading room, and it is such a comfort. We have been 




VIEW OF RAGUSA FROM LACROMA 



talking with some Germans we had noticed at Spalato and 
on the boat. They live at Hamburg and know the Herzs, 
and lived in New York as young people, immediately after 
the Civil War. He says two of the Herzs were in New York. 
Then there is an interesting couple from Boston, who came 
over on the Cedric, by the name of Deland. He is a lawyer 
and knows Frank Miles Day, whom I wrote you I met at 
Florence. 

All these men come in every day and take five o'clock tea 
with their wives, and it is so cosy and nice. A young Russian 

645 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

has just been playing the piano so beautifully, but unfortu- 
nately, the piano is very bad. We sit at a long table and three 
nice Boston women sit on our left, and two English women 
opposite, and we get a great deal of information from them. 
They are going to do just the same trip I have planned. 

You must not worry about us. We are having luxury, 
and there are no privations. They say the hotel at Cettinje 
is excellent. The only unpleasant thing is the sail down this 
coast until we turn into the Bocche de Cattaro. The sail up 
the Bocche and the drive up to Cettinje are said to be abso- 
lutely beautiful. We shall drive with horses and carriages and 
not go in the public auto. 

I have just found out that the Boston Mr. Deland has a 
brother-in-law, Frank Chandler, architect, so I asked if he 
was related to Peleg Chandler, and he is a nephew. The Ham- 
burg man is named Volckens, and he is still in business in 
New York and goes over every year. They are all so friendly 
and nice. I only wish you were along, you would enjoy these 
people we meet. I will send this, although I could go on for- 
ever. 

Do tell the boys to write. Much love. 

Amy., M. D. R. 

P. S. — I get few letters and don't know where they are 
held up. 

Grand Hotel Imperial, Ragusa, 

April 22nd, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

Only a line to tell you we are leaving here to-morrow morn- 
ing for Mostar en route for Sarajevo. The Volckens have 
just returned from both places and are so enthusiastic about 
them and say the Hotels are excellent. We had a nice party 
of four carriages up to Cettinje in Montenegro so we were 
never alone. The two English old maids, one a Miss Thack- 
eray, niece of Wm. M, and the Hendersons, who know David 

Bispham and who are urging us to come to London. 

646 



THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 

There is no doubt that it is the most wonderful drive in 
the world and although it climbs 2000 ft. in zigzag you think 
you are almost on a level, it is so perfectly graded, and when 
near Cettinje we made a sharp turn and the most gorgeous 
view burst upon us, the Albanian Mts., blue as indigo, and 
Lake Scutari, in Albania, and back of all one high snow-capped 




CETTINGE, CAPITAL OF MONTENEGRO 



peak, before we descended upon the sea of stone called Monte- 
negro. The two English women are going with us to-morrow, 
so we shall not be isolated. 

I must pack to-night and get to bed early as we are off be- 
fore nine. Tell Laura I have no time to write. With much 
love to you all. 

Affectionately, M. D. R. 



Mostar, Sat. April 23rd, 1910. 
Dear F, 

We left Ragusa with great regret this morning. It is ab- 
solutely beautiful and interesting. 

Mostar is a Turkish town and has the Narenta river rush- 

647 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 




MOSTAR 



ing through with very picturesque banks and a wonderful 
bridge. Full of Mosques and Turks. We go on to Jablanica 
to-morrow afternoon and then to Sarajevo. Am travelling too 
fast to write letters except to Frank. Much love. 

M. D. R. 



Hotel Europe, Sarajevo, 
Monday, April 25th, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

Your last letter was an old one of Mar. 30th, forwarded 
from Fiume to Ragusa and repeating other letters. We did 
not have any mail sent to these out of the way places so will 
get nothing until Vienna. 

We left Ragusa on Saturday morning' with the two Eng- 
lish ladies, one of whom is Miss Thackeray, whose father was 
first cousin to the great novelist. 

The night before we had a great leave-taking of the Hen- 
dersons, the English couple, who were going to Albajea and 



THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 




BETWEEN MOSTAR AND JAYCE, HERZEGOVINA 

the Volckens who had just returned from this trip of Mostar 
and Sarajevo, and were most enthusiastic about it and invited 
us to Hamburg. The Hendersons begged us to come to London 
before sailing and promised to take us everywhere in their 
motor and to take us to all the best plays, &c, &c. 

We hated to leave Ragusa and the Hendersons but were 
delighted with the railway ride on a rack and pinion road over 
the Karst and came down into a beautiful green valley upon 
the town of Mostar, most picturesquely located on the rush- 
ing and foaming Narenta River. 

The banks are curiously rough and ragged and in the centre 
of the town is the Roinerbrucke, a single span of stone point- 
ing up in the middle. With lovely mountains in the back- 
ground and many minarets and tall poplar trees you may 
imagine how beautiful it was. Our hotel was on the river bank 
at the end of a bridge from which there was an entrancing 
view and a constant and bewildering procession of costumes. 

649 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We had now got to our first Mohammedan town and saw 
veiled women in trousers and unveiled women dressed in the 
ordinary European way except that the dress ended in trousers 
instead of a skirt. The next morning being Sunday we got 
out soon after nine to see the Austrian officers and soldiers 
go to the Catholic church. We sat down on a stone wall a 
little in front of the church and heard the brass band play 
the hymns and in the meantime the peasant men and women 
were arriving from the country bedecked in lace veils and 
flowers and great white woolen overcoats embroidered and 
which they had caught up behind and let down as they got 
near the church. Some of the men wore red turbans and we 
cannot tell them from the Mohammedans. 

It seemed so strange to see the middle class women wear- 
ing trousers and I have never dreamed of so many costumes, 
making an unforgettable picture. It was very hot and we 
were glad to find the tables set outside back of the hotel and 
reserved one for lunch. In the meantime officers and their 
families began to arrive and then the brass band came up and 
saluted and then gave a regular concert with printed pro- 
grams, so we enjoyed the music and saw the elite of Mostar 
society. 

Maria went with some Germans the night before to a 
Turkish cafe, where there was music and then to see the bridge 
by moonlight. Sunday afternoon the English ladies decided 
to go on to Jablanica to spend the night so we did the same 
and had a wonderful ride through the famous "Gorge of the 
Narenta," which is one of the three finest in Europe. The 
day was perfect so we got the outlines of the Mountains 
clearly and arrived at Jablanica about five to find a Govern- 
ment Inn in a lovely garden on the river and had tea in the 
garden with nightingales singing. It is a place where men 
come for fishing and hunting. The nightingales sang all night 
but I do not think they compare with our robins. 

We had rather an uncomfortable breakfast and were ready 

to come on here, crossing the border between Herzegovina and 

650 



THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 

Bosnia and seeing Turks. One old beast of a Turk got on the 
train with two women with black veils and old calico dresses. 
At every station we saw new costumes until we were quite 
bewildered. 

We crossed over a high mountain range with snow very 
near and the conductor took us forward to see how the engine 
worked to catch the rail — the grade was very steep. It was 
a wonderful ride. 

We reached Sarajevo at six and found it quite large and 
up to date. The hotel pretends to be modern but is very 
different from ours. The town lies on both sides of a river 
with numerous bridges and many mosques, and looks a little 
like Florence. The dining saloon was quite gay, one table 
filled with fine-looking officers wearing an infinite variety of 
uniforms, green, yellow, scarlet and crimson collars and cuffs. 
Some of them had many decorations and now that I am writ- 
ing they are singing "Gaudeamus igitur" and banging their 
mugs of beer on the tables. A perfect giant sat at the next 
table to us — an enormous black-bearded creature who was 
considerably over seven feet tall. 

Sarajevo, April 26th, 1910. 

This morning, after a bad night's sleep, owing to the noise 
in the cafe and the street, we went out to the Museum and saw 
the costumed figures representing the peasant population of 
every part of Bosnia and Croatia. 

It seems very strange to be staying in a place that I didn't 
know existed and find it quite civilized and almost unaware 
of our existence. I don't think there is an English newspaper 
in the house. There are automobiles darting about and electric 
lights and telephones. 

I sent for a doctor this morning to look at my throat and 
find he studied with the Dr. Otis of Boston at Vienna, (who 
is a friend of the Landis's that I met at Cettinje). He is giving 
me a gargle and a water to drink and seems to think it is the 
old bronchial trouble — said I had the American pharyngitis. 

651 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

I had hoped to get on to Jayce in Bosnia to-morrow after- 
noon but will probably wait until Thursday. We were going 
to the Bazaar tomorrow morning as it is Market day and the 
country people come in from all sides in wonderful costumes, 
and I do hope I will not miss it. 




SARAJEVO, CAPITAL OF BOSNIA 

I do not believe I had better stop at Adelmann's but may 
ask Countess A. to come in to Munich to see us. It will all 
depend on when we get to Vienna. I am anxious to hear of 
Mrs. Whelan's condition, and hope she is recovering. 

Much love to you all. 

Affly., M. D. R. 

Grand Hotel Hungaria, Budapest, 

May ist, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

We sent you a cablegram last evening on our arrival to 
let you know that we were here safe and sound, after our 
arduous trip back through the Balkans. We climbed over 

them at least six or seven times this side of Ragusa. 

652 



THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 

We left Jayce (pronounced Yaitze) and the English women 
with regret, although we had time to look at it all thoroughly. 
The ride from Sarajevo to Jayce on the train was through the 
most beautiful country, high mountains, beautiful rivers and 
such masses of flowering fruit trees were never seen elsewhere. 
They were mostly prune trees. The Turkish villages through 
Bosnia were a constant delight as they are more picturesque 
than any I have ever seen. White houses with black steep 




JAYCE 

pitched roofs, lovely gardens and plenty of flowing water, and 
lovely minarets. 

We were fortunate in just striking their market days and 
so seeing crowds of peasants in their finery. Also on nearer 
inspection many proved to be walking ragbags. Jayce had a 
most beautiful waterfall and lovely mosques. They are making 
a park on both sides of the river, both above and below the 
Falls. The hotel was very comfortable but we had to go on 
and went at seven in a fine big enclosed auto through the 
Gorge of the Urbas, arriving at Banjaluka in four hours, going 
about 12 miles an hour. It was very warm at B. and walking 
through the town was rather uncomfortable, but we were re- 
warded by seeing streams of peasants with the gayest of cos- 
tumes. 

653 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We took a slow train to Agram at 3 but hoped to get there 
by dark. Instead it was midnight and we went to the first 
hotel in Baedeker, found only a boy up, who couldn't speak 
German and only learned that a train went at 7.20. So we got 
up at five and had a really dreadful time to get a breakfast 
or our bill, &c, &c., but we finally got off and then found that 
it was another slow train and that there was a fast train in 
the afternoon. 

We preferred anything to going back and found our train 
would get here two hours earlier than the other. A comfort- 
able first class car made it easy as we were able to lie down 
and get naps and had the compartment to ourselves. It was 
a terribly stormy day, cold rain and we thought how lucky 
we were to have had the perfect day for the auto ride and all 
our trips through Bosnia for the country was flat and unin- 
teresting after Agram. 

I forgot to tell you about the queer costumes we saw be- 
tween Banjaluka and Agram. The men wore straight up and 
down white drawers embroidered in openwork a half yard 
deep at the bottom and over that a full jacket of white also 
embroidered around the edges and belted in so it stuck out 
over the hips, then a Zouave jacket over that. They really 
had the most comical appearance you can imagine. But the 
most amusing mixture was a priest in a brown robe, like the 
Franciscans, with a curled up moustache and a common 
black Derby hat. We have seen some funny sights. 

We are going out to drive around the town (Budapest) 

although it threatens rain, but we cannot lose time and hope 

to take the 5 p. m. train tomorrow arriving at Vienna at 

9.30. Hoping you will get the cablegram all right, with love 

to all. 

Amy, M. D. R. 

Budapest, Sunday afternoon, May 1, 1910. 

We drove about all afternoon through the city then went 
up to the "Burg," the Emperor's Schloss high up in the old 

654 



THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA 

town across the river. There were the loveliest gardens in 
front of it and a splendid terrace with statues overlooking the 
Danube with the Margareten-Insel. There were rose trees 
set in circles of forget-me-nots and the latter such healthy 
vivid blue (so unlike the weak sickly-looking plants we have) 
and they were in long beds of giant pansies. 

Then we went on to the Margareten-Insel, a summer re- 
sort with music and restaurants and a band was playing while 
we took our tea and strawberries (wild ones with no flavor). 
It was too early to see society and when we came back we 
went out on the street behind the hotel and found the pave- 
ments covered with chairs and tables and fine-looking people. 

This street goes along the river and looks up to the Burg. 




ROYAL PALACE, BUDAPEST 



It is very difficult to get along here as not one sign even in 
the Railway Stations is legible, all being in the Hungarian 
language. Even in Bosnia and Herzegovina they had the 
signs in four languages, but here there is nothing, and if I 
did not speak German I could not have got on. I have just 
had a telegram that they cannot give us rooms until Tuesday, 
so will leave Tuesday morning, 3rd of May, for Vienna. 

Mr. Gorton has just written us that he is leaving Vienna 
to-day, couldn't stay longer and has spoken to the hoteljpro- 
prietor about our rooms, and we get there to-morrow night. 

655 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

It rained all our stay in Budapest except Sunday after- 
noon, when we made all possible use of our time. In Vienna 
it rained, poured, all but one day, but we managed to see 
about everything and went one night to Grand Opera and an- 
other to hear the new comic opera, by the composer of "The 
Merry Widow," "The Graf von Luxemburg." The Opera 
House is beautiful and "Faust" was delightful. 

Vienna is a charming place and so gay. It is still raining 
and bitterly cold. Mrs. R. has of course written you of her 
plans. We shall hope for better weather at Sigmaringen. It 
would be so nice if you were here for this part of the "tour," 
which you would like. You never would have gone through 
the other part. 

With love for the family. 

Affectionately and gratefully, Maria. 




EN ROUTE 

Hotel Bristol, Vienna, 

Thurs., May 4th, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

We came here Monday in a pouring rain and in the same 
train with Sydney Hutchinson and his wife and it has poured 
steadily ever since. They got disgusted and shipped their 
auto to Paris and expect to sail the end of this month. 

We have gone to some churches and museums and the 
state apartments in the Hof Burg, but have had no chance to 
walk about the streets or see the life. Tuesday night we went 
to the Opera, Faust, hearing their best tenor. We had seats 
in the second row of the Parquet and enjoyed every minute 
of it. The orchestra was superb, the singers good, but not 
great, and they gave the whole Walpurgis Nacht with the 
most superb ballet I ever saw. The house is very handsome, 
in a sort of light chocolate and gold. I have not yet found out 
who the leader or singers were, but will do so. 

People came in here afterwards for supper and it was very 
gay here. Yesterday Dr. Otis and his family turned up, the 
one I wrote you was a friend of the Landis's, and that we 
met at Cettinje. They are going to stay two months. The 
Volckens also came yesterday and leave to-morrow. 

It is still raining and to-morrow is our last chance to get to 
Schonbrunn. To-night we are going to see the "Graf von Lux- 
emburg" by the man who wrote the "Merry Widow" and hope 
to find it as amusing as they say it is. 
42 657 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

We leave Saturday morning for Munich and hope for a 
clear day to go through the Tyrol, Linz and Salzburg to Mu- 
nich, I have planned to spend Sunday there and go on Monday 
to Sigmaringen and on Wednesday morning to Zurich and take 
the night train to Paris, where I have rooms reserved at the 
Hotel Crillon. My next will be from Sigmaringen. It was 
nice to get the photos and see you all looking the same as ever. 

With much love to all, 

Your aff., M. D. R. 

P. S. I will attend to the return trip the moment I get to 
Paris. It is much easier to get accommodations there. One 
cannot get the Lusitania or Mauretania at Cherbourg, so it 
will probably be a Hamburg-American Ship. 

Grand Hotel Continental, Munchen, 

May 5th, 19 10. 
Dear Mr. Rosengarten, 

You were, I am sure greatly relieved to get the cable from 
Budapest telling you we were safely out of "Savage Europe," 
as an Englishman has called his book on Bosnia. I felt on a 
nervous strain until we got into civilization, but now that it is 
over I can look back upon it all as a wonderful experience and 
shall always remember with joy the beautiful and interesting 
places and things that I have seen. 

It was a hard trip from the time we left Venice and I feared 
it would be too much for Mrs. Rosengarten, but we had prac- 
tically no discomfort and received kind and courteous treat- 
ment from every one, especially the train conductors, who 
seemed to look upon us as their special charges. As Mrs. R. 
has probably written you, we were never really alone until we 
reached Agram, for the two English women were with us until 
we left Jayce, and then some Germans with whom we had 
talked were in the motor and train until we got to Agram. 

Mrs. R. has written you so fully about each place that it 
would bore you to hear of them again, so I will spare you 

descriptions. To me Herzegovina and Bosnia were even more 

658 



EN ROUTE 

interesting than Dalmatia and much more beautiful. The 
scenery between Jayce and Banjaluka is the finest of my 
experience. 

We were childishly excited the night we arrived at Buda- 
pest. It seemed like getting to Heaven to find ourselves in a 
good Hotel and among civilized people, but I fancy Heaven 
will not be quite as gay and giddy as the dining room of the 
Hotel Hungaria. 

Grand Hotel Continental, Munchen, 
Sunday, May 8th,i9io. 
Dear Clifford, 

Two of your letters came almost together and where the 
others are I do not know. I have been very careful not to 
order the mail to out of the way places and always stopped it 
several days before leaving a place, so none should arrive too 
late. 

We hated to leave Vienna, it was so gay and bright, al- 
though it rained steadily and blew a fearful gale from Sunday 
to Friday, when it cleared and got warm and I went out to 
Schonbrunn and had a perfect view, but yesterday it started 
in again here and is just now stopping at 5 p. m. We went out 
to the picture gallery and the Frauen Kirche and some others, 
among them a very ornate chapel, where King Ludwig the mad 
King is buried. Tomorrow we shall go to the Alte Residenz 
before going to take the train to Sigmaringen, to stay over 
Monday and Tuesday nights, leaving Wednesday morning, 
nth, for Zurich, and night train to Paris where I have secured 
rooms at the Crillon, a new Hotel every one speaks well of. 

King Edward's sudden death Friday night has made a 
great sensation. None of you have said anything more about 
Mrs. Whelen, after saying she was at the point of death, so I 
take it she has recovered. 

Your Father wrote that Hammerstein asked about my 
seats at the Opera. Will you please write that if the present 
arrangement continues I wish to keep my same seats for next 

659 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

year. The newspapers say that the Metropolitan has bought 
out Hammerstein and taken over his artistes. I wonder if that 
is true. Please attend to this for me. Please tell Annie to 
have the house- in summer trim, everything put away and the 
parlor ready to close. 

I got you a Bosnian weapon in a beautiful sheath, old Bos- 
nian work, and hope you will like it. You said not to get 
handkerchiefs or stockings. We had a lovely ride through 
Salzburg, Linz, and along the Chiemsee. We had a peep at 
the Tyrolean Alps when the clouds lifted at Linz. 

Hoping you are quite well again, with much love, 

Affly, M. D. R. 




FRANCE 

Hotel de Crillon, Paris, 

Saturday eve., May 14th, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

We had a rainy day for our trip to Zurich and only saw the 
Museum and were relieved to find we did not have to wait 
until midnight to get our sleeping car, but got one direct from 
Zurich. 




HOTEL DE CRILLON, PARIS 

I think the Adelmanns hated to have us go, they were so 

friendly and nice. Of course we were only there over one day, 

but we went all over the castle which is now finished and Maria 

took a long walk late every afternoon with Count A. He has 

661 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

aged some and grown stouter and Countess A. was so lovely. 
Maria got along famously with them and seemed very much 
impressed with her experience there. I told them that they 
must absolutely come to us that we must not do all the visiting. 
Count A. said that we must come and make a trip through 
Northern Germany and make their house the headquarters, they 
couldn't understand why you hadn't been willing to come over. 






HOTEL DE CRILLON, PLACE DE LA CONCORDE, PARIS 

We got here at six-thirty Thursday morning and were 
delighted with this hotel. It is the building I always thought 
was the Rothschild's house. It is the Ancient Hotel de Crillon 
owned by the Duke de Polignac, facing the Place de la Con- 
corde and on the side that is the continuation of the Rue de 
Rivoli just beyond the Rue Royale. 

You cannot imagine the traffic and the danger of crossing. 
It rained hard Thursday, but I went at once and secured a 
good stateroom on the Cincinnati for May 27th from Cher- 
bourg. 

We are very comfortably fixed here. I like it better than 

662 



FRANCE 

any hotel I have ever been in here. We were so tired that we 
have not done much but rest. The Gortons arrived to-day from 
London in their car and are going to take us out to lunch 




HOTEL DE CRILLON, PARIS 




THE GARDEN, HOTEL DE CRILLON, PARIS 

to-morrow at either Pre Catalan or d'Armenonville. He 

sails on Wednesday next. 

I also met Miss de Coppet, who seems to be with some one 

who has an automobile and she goes back Wednesday. She 

asked if Clifford were with me. The Gortons have been to 

England for the wedding of her niece and had a great time 

663 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

there. Lady Pole-Care w, who came over to Quebec with the 
Prince of Wales' party and a celebrated beauty, is the niece of 
Mrs. Gorton's sister. Pierpont Morgan was at the wedding 
and sent a superb diamond ornament that Mr. Gorton says 
must have cost $20,000, large pear-shaped diamonds. The 
young lady is a Miss Butler and marries a young Drummond 
in the English Navy. 

I imagine we will have some good times with the automo- 
bile while the Gortons are here. I have not yet let the 
Rochambeaus know I am here, but will do so soon. I ordered 
my underclothing and got a hat for Countess Adelmann. I 
am too tired to write more to-night. Will write often. Much 
love, and hoping to see you soon. 

Amy, M. D. R. 

Hotel de Crillon, Paris, 
Monday, May 16th, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

I wrote you Saturday evening and yesterday a little before 
noon, we went off" with Mr. and Mrs. Gorton in their beauti- 
ful Packard limousine to the Pre Catalan in the Bois and had 
lunch there in a great white room with all glass walls looking 
out on beautiful flowers and exquisite green. It was as warm as 
summer and after lunch we went on to Versailles and Maria saw 
everything hurriedly, and then we came home in clouds of dust. 

I never saw so many automobiles in all my life and it was 
one great cloud of dust and I feel that Paris is ruined by 
automobiles. As it was Sunday and the first warm sunny day 
for two weeks the whole population was out and we got into a 
bicycle race between Suresnes and Versailles that had left 
Bordeaux at five in the morning. There were one million more 
or less bicycles and riders waiting along the sides of the road 
and it was dusty and hot. 

To-day was a holiday and nothing open, so Maria and I 

got a good rest. I haven't had time to make any calls so I 

have written to the Countess de Rochambeau asking them to 

come here to dine on Friday evening. 

664 



FRANCE 

I was much surprised to meet Mr. Stotesbury in the hall 
this p. m. He and the Hutchinsons had moved over from the 
Bristol. It seems the H's had engaged rooms for Mr. S. there 
and when he arrived they hadn't a room — said the King of 
Greece and the Prince of that had arrived and had to have 
the rooms, so they said if they cared more for the King of 
Greece than Americans they would go elsewhere, so they all 
moved over here. 

Mr. Gorton says the McCormicks arrived to-day at this 
hotel. He has been Ambassador in several places. I cannot 
think where I met her. 

The time is flying and we have so far done very little. Our 
train leaves for Cherbourg on Friday 27th at one o'clock, and 
I feel as if I had enough moving about of trunks for some time. 

The French people seem all to have lost their taste — they 
wear such enormous hats and such wigs and are so painted 
and wear such tight skirts that they all look disreputable. 
Well I must say good night and look forward to being with 
you soon. I also look forward to riding to Philadelphia in 
our newly painted Packard. Mrs. G. says she thinks the 1907 
was the best car they have had but their 1910 moves without 
a hitch. They got an Italian chauffeur in New York for this 
trip. Much love to all. Amy, M. D. R. 

Hotel de Crillon, Paris, 

May 19th, 1910. 
Dear Frank, 

I went to the Bank this morning and got a letter from Betty 
and one from you saying you should not write again. I am 
sorry to miss Katherine Fowler's wedding. I think you can 
get Fanny Rosengarten or Betty to help you buy a present. 
Ask Mr. Caldwell to show you some Dutch silver, the sort of 
things I buy. You know the sort of things I have had sent 
home to choose from. 

We went to the Countess Rene de Rochambeau's for tea 

this afternoon. She had said I would meet her mother-in-law 

and sister-in-law, the mother of the young Marquis. We found 

665 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

a lot of people, about twenty, and we didn't know who any of 
them were. The old Marquise came in and of course asked 
about all the family, especially Joe and Fanny and Lina. None 
of. the people talked to us as the Countess gathered us all 
around the table and it was rather embarrassing, but I think 
more to them than to us. 




COUNT DE ROCHAMBEAU 

The Count and Countess will come to us for dinner Tues- 
day of next week and I may ask Mr. Stotesbury. We go to 
the Marquise for dinner some evening before we sail a week 
from tomorrow. The Hutchinsons sail Saturday on the Lusi- 
tania and Mrs. Chester and husband (he is Admiral Chester's 
son) go on Wednesday night next. 

Mrs. Gorton took us out in her automobile this morning 

666 



FRANCE 

but I find one does not accomplish much going with other 
people. Mr. Gorton sailed yesterday. Mrs. Munn, the mother- 
in-law of Mary Paul, put her younger son in his charge. I 
took Mrs. Gorton to lunch today at Durand's, as she had 
lunched us Sunday and I thought of you as we ate artichokes 
with Hollandaise sauce. 




COUNTESS DE ROCHAMBEAU 

We went last night to see L'Attaque du Moulin, by Erck- 
mann-Chatrian and found it set to music. Mme. Delna, a 
great contralto, sang magnificently and I never saw finer act- 
ing than hers. The audience nearly tore them to pieces. 

I am so tired. I wonder if you will see the Halley comet. 

It has been too cloudy to see it but it will be seen in England 

to-night. With much love to all. 

Amy, M. D. R 

667 



THE END. 

Coronado, California, June 12th, 191 3. 

General Offley Shore, 
Office of General Staff, 
Simla, India. 

Dear Offley, 

You cannot realize how little strength I have and why it 
should tax me so to write. 

The Doctor Lorini, a fascinating man of Italian descent, 
educated in France and at the University of Pa., doesn't give 
me much hope of being better. They have given the vaccine 
a thorough trial and it seems to have been of no use. I still 
have the chill followed by fever through the best part of the day. 
This absorbs my strength so that now I am taken care of just 
like an infant. They find my heart keeps up all right, which is 
a great deal, and yet if I cannot even stand a minute, of what 
use am I ? I fear I will never get back home again. I often 
think of the day I left my home in the auto, and the delightful 
trip we had, and that I have never been back. 

How I wish you could see the flowers here. The roses are 
like great cabbages in size, and most wonderful are the shad- 
ings. They all grow just like weeds; their stems are twice as 
thick as ours ; the Canterbury Bells are enormous. 

I made my dessert tonight of enormous cherries brought 
down from La Mesa, back in the Mountains, and a delicious 
peach. We are now having strawberries, raspberries, cherries, 
peaches, apricots, and shortly ripe figs, melons, &c. It has been 
a freak year, fog morning and night, all the time, unheard of 
before, but one day is like another in temperature so I am not 
subject to changes. The doctors say they cannot understand 
how I have avoided tuberculosis. I shall certainly avoid places 
where tubercular people go. My cough is incessant during the 
day, but I get along fairly well at night. I must cough to get 

668 



EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD 

rid of the sputum, otherwise I would be drowned in it. I see 
no future but am fighting for my life. 

It was all so sudden to be cut completely out of everything 
without any warning. 

I don't understand how you get flowers to grow 6 and 8,000 
ft. up in the Mts. They keep me supplied with flowers from 
the Hotel Gardens and Dr. Lorini keeps me supplied with 
books. 

How I wish you and Lina could be here with us, and I hope 
I may live to see you again. 

Much love to you both and thanks for your kind letters. 
Do write often. Sam and Aunt Laura are coming out early in 
August. 

Affectionately yours, M. D. R. 



She passed away peacefully, after months of suffering, on 
the 29th of October, 191 3. 



APPENDIX 



APPENDIX 




HER SON CLIFFORD, IN UNIFORM OF 1st CITY 
TROOP IN CAMPAIGN OF 1898 




**' .jtaij 




AND IN U. S. ARMY IN 1917 
673 



APPENDIX 





674 



APPENDIX 




if 



675 



APPENDIX 




CASTANIAN, HOME IN GERMANTOWN 




JAMESTOWN HOME IN 1885 
676 



APPENDIX 




JAMESTOWN HOME AS SHE CHANGED IT, 1912 




GARDEN AT JAMESTOWN, 1912 



677 



APPENDIX 







GRAPE AND PLUM ARBOR IN 1912 




THE HOME IN NEWPORT, R. I., 1888 
678 



APPENDIX 




INTERIOR OF JAMESTOWN HOME IN 1912 




THE LAST DAY IN THE GARDEN, JAMESTOWN, 1912 



679 



APPENDIX 




THE VILLA AT CORONADO, CALIFORNIA, 1913 




IN THE GARDEN AT CORONADO, CALIFORNIA, 1913 




THE CORONADO VILLA 
680 . 



APPENDIX 

Mrs. Rosengarten was a director from the formation of 

THE PHILADELPHIA ORCHESTRA ASSOCIATION 

(Incorporated 1903) 

The Membership of this Association is confined by its By-Laws to 

the guarantors, whose ranks you are invited to join by subscribing Twenty-five Dollars 

or more to the guarantee fund, and thus aid in 

Maintaining and Operating 

THE PHILADELPHIA ORCHESTRA 

(founded 1900) 
Carl Pohlig, Conductor 



OFFICERS 

Alex. Van Rensselaer, President 

Thomas McKean, Vice-President 

Andrew Wheeler, Secretary, 1608 Market Street 
Arthur E. Newbold, Treasurer, Drexel & Co., Fifth and Chestnut Streets 



EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE 



Charles A. Braun 
Richard Y. Cook 
Mrs. A. J. Dallas Dixon 
C. Hartman Kuhn 
Thomas McKean 



Arthur E. Newbold 
G. Heide Norris 
Miss Anne Thomson 
Alex. Van Rensselaer 
Andrew Wheeler 



Mrs. W. W. Arnett 
Charles A. Braun 
James Crosby Brown 
Richard Y. Cook 
Eckley B. Coxe, Jr. 
Mrs. A. J. Dallas Dixon 
Theodore N. Ely 



BOARD OF DIRECTORS 
Miss Mary K. Gibson 
Clement A. Griscom 
John H. Ingham 
C. Hartman Kuhn 
Thomas McKean 
Arthur E. Newbold 
Clement B. Newbold 
G. Heide Norris 



Mrs. F. H. Rosengarten 
Edgar Scott 
E. T. Stotesbury 
Miss Anne Thomson 
Alex. Van Rensselaer 
Andrew Wheeler 
Miss F. A. Wister 



MANAGER AND COMPTROLLER 
Horace Churchman 



PUBLICITY MANAGER 
Harvey M. Watts 



COUNSEL 
G. Heide Norris 

BUSINESS OFFICE 

1 3 14 Pennsylvania Building, 15th and Chestnut Streets, 

Philadelphia 

681 



APPENDIX 

THE EURYDICE CHORUS 

of Philadelphia. 

Mrs. Frank H. Rosengarten, President. 

Dr. Horatio Parker 
Conductor. 

TWENTY-FIFTH SEASON— 19 10-19 11 

The Chorus Will be Assisted by 

THE ORPHEUS CLUB 

and 

Mr. Edward G. McCollin Baritone 

Mrs. Emma F. Rihl Soprano 

Mrs. John Jay Joyce, Jr Contralto 

Mrs. Dorothy Johnstone Baseler Harpist 

Mr. John Witzemann Violinist 

Mr. Philip Schmitz Violoncellist 

Mr. Anton Horner French Horn 

Mr. Paul Fischer Flute 

and 

Mr. Ellis Clark Hammann 

Pianist 

HORTICULTURAL HALL 
Thursday Evening, April 27th, 191 1, at 8.15 o'clock. 



THE EURYDICE CHORUS 

Founded by the Late Mrs. Charles Hazelhurst. 

1886 19H 

TWENTY-FIFTH ANNIVERSARY CONCERT 
Original Committee 
President, Mrs. Charles Hazlehurst 
Mrs. Herman V. Hilprecht 
Mrs. A. J. Dallas Dixon 
Mrs. Dennis McCarthy 
Miss Sally W. Fisher 

First Conductor 

Michael H. Cross 

From 1886 Until His Death in 1897 

The first part of the concert will be a memorial to Mr. Michael H. Cross and will include 
several numbers from the programme of the first Eurydice concert, given April 19, 1887, 
as well as two numbers from the original programme of The Orpheus Club, given December 
7, 1872. 

682 



APPENDIX 

TWENTY-FIFTH ANNIVERSARY CONCERT 
1897 (Continued) • 1905 

Dr. Frank Damrosch 

Conductor 



Fritz Scheel 
Conductor 
1905-1907 

in 
Memoriam 



Dr. W. W. Gilchrist 

Conductor 

February, 1907 — April, 1907 

Dr. Horatio Parker 
Was Unanimously Elected Conductor for the Season of 1907-1908 

Dr. Gilchrist, Dr. Damrosch, Dr. Parker 

Conductors of The Eurydice Chorus 

Dr. Frank Damrosch, Dr. W. W. Gilchrist, Dr. Horatio Parker 
Dr. Chadwick and Mr. David Stanley Smith will each conduct a number of their own 
compositions to honor the Twenty-fifth Anniversary of the Chorus. 



TWENTY-FIFTH ANNIVERSARY CONCERT 
Mrs. Frank H. Rosengarten, President. 



PROGRAMME 

PART I. 

In Memoriam 
Mendelssohn Laudate Pueri 

(The first piece ever sung in public by the Eurydice Chorus) 

The Eurydice Chorus 

Curschman Flower Greeting 

Trio 

Mrs. Holt, Mrs. Hollingshead, Miss Dercum 

Joseph Hatton Summer Eve 

The Eurydice Chorus 
Kreutzer The Chapel 

Zollner Champagne Song 

The Orpheus Club 
683 



APPENDIX 

PART II. 
R. Schumann Der Nussbaum 

The Eurydice Chorus 

Violin and Harp 

Songs for Baritone 

George W. Chadwick, and conducted by him (a) "Before the Dawn" 

Horatio Parker, and conducted by him (b) "Once I Loved a Maiden Fair" 

W. W. Gilchrist, and conducted by him. . .(c) "Canst Thou Leave Me Thus, My Katy" 

Mr. Edward G. McCollin 

David Stanley Smith The Sleeping Priestess 

The Eurydice Chorus 
Conducted by the Composer 

Mrs. John Jay Joyce, Jr. 

Richard Strauss Alle Meine Gedanken 

Johannes Brahms Im Herbst 

Henry Gordon Thunder A Love Song 

Dr. Frank Damrosch The Violet 

Conducted by the Composer 

PART III 
W. W. Gilchrist The Syrens 

Mrs. Emma F. Rihl 

Campbell Tipton A Spirit Flower 

Ellis Clark Hammann The Daffodils 

Xavier Leroux Le Nil 

With Violin Obligato 

George Whitefield Chadwick Spring Beauties 

A New Piece Dedicated to The Eurydice Chorus 
Conducted by the Composer 

Horatio Parker, and conducted by him In May 

Edward Kremser A Prayer of Thanksgiving 

The Orpheus Club 

and 

The Eurydice Chorus 






OFFICERS 



President 
Mrs. Frank H. Rosengarten 1905 Walnut Street 

Vice-Presidents 

Mrs. Alexander J. Cassatt Haverford, Pa. 

Mrs. Alexander J. Dallas Dixon 1015 Clinton Street 

Mrs. Louis F. Benson 2014 DeLancey Place 

Treasurer 
Miss Marie W. Paul 93° Chestnut Street 

Assistant Treasurer 
Miss Margaret M. Riley I5°9 Spruce Street 

684 



APPENDIX 

Secretary 
Mrs. B. Franklin Rittenhouse 4613 Leiper Street, Frankford 

Assistant Secretary 
Miss Mary Grubb Smith 2039 Walnut Street 

Librarian 
Mrs. Harlow Voorhees Elkins Park, Pa. 

Honorary Members 
Mr. Charles D. Barney Rev. Dr. Louis F. Benson Dr. Frank Damrosch 
Mrs. Henry Drayton Mr. Frank H. Rosengarten 



Active Members 



Miss Elsie L. Bailey 
Miss Clara M. Barba 
Miss Elsie Bein 
Miss Bertha D. Benson 
Mrs. Louis F. Benson 
Mrs. Joseph S. Bunting 
Mrs. Henry W. Butterworth 
Miss Ethel Altemus Byrd 
Mrs. A. J. Cassatt 
Mrs. Catlin 

Miss Anne H. Chamberlain 
Mrs. Nettie Moore Chaine 
Miss Clara T. Chase 
Mrs. Coloney 
Mrs. J. Barratt Conner 
Miss Jean Aldrich Conrad 
Mrs. Norman W. Cramp 
Miss Susanna E. Dercum 
Mrs. A. J. Dallas Dixon 
Mrs. S. Naudain Duer 
Mrs. H. A. Everett 
Mrs. C. L. Flanagan 
Mrs. Stephen Fuguet 
Miss Beulah C. Garretson 
Mrs. Horace T. Greenwood 
Miss M. Matilda Halsey 
Mrs. L. J. Hammond 
Miss Fanny C. Haupt 
Miss Bertha W. Held 
Miss M. Louise Held 
Mrs. John Holt 
Mrs. Maud H. Hollingshead 
Mrs. Archibald B. Hubard 
Mrs. Joseph B. Hutchinson 
Mrs. Walter H. Johnson 
Mrs. John Jay Joyce, Jr. 
Mrs. Olive Boyce Judson 
Mrs. Chares Y. DeV. Keefe 



Mrs. E. L. Kennedy 
Mrs. Frank G. Kennedy 
Miss Edith Noel Kurtz 
Miss Fanny Lamb 
Mrs. Percy Legge 
Mrs. Fielding Otis Lewis 
Mrs. Wm. Henderson Long 
Miss Anna K. Lorimer 
Mrs. S. M. Meryweather 
Mrs. William O. Miller 
Miss Myra V. Monk 
Mrs. Emilie Bailey Myers 
Mrs. Harold Nason 
Miss Marie W. Paul 
Miss Alice G. Phillips 
Mrs. William P. Remington 
Miss Margaret M. Riley 
Mrs. Albert Rihl 
Mrs. B. F. Rittenhouse 
Mrs. George W. B. Roberts 
Mrs. Owen J. Roberts 
Mrs. Frank H. Rosengarten 
Miss Rumpp 
Mrs" Wayne Schantz 
Mrs. Harold M. Sill 
Mrs. Frederick Schick 
Miss Mary Grubb Smith 
Miss Marion Spangler 
Mrs. G. W. Stewart 
Mrs. Sydney Thayer 
Mrs. Henry C. Thompson 
Mrs. W. H. Tutwiler 
Miss Harriet H. Van Baum 
Mrs. Harlow Voorhees 
Miss Helen Voorhees 
Miss Frances N. White 
Mrs. J. G. Wilson 
Mrs. Robert K. Wright 



68 S 



APPENDIX 



Breezy Meadows, Metcalf, Mass. 

May 31st, 1916. 
My dear Mr. Rosengarten, 

I do remember your wife. No one could ever forget her 
who had the pleasure of knowing her even slightly, for she 
was a rare type with decided individuality, unusual gifts and 
a magnetism which attracted every one. Yes, my Father 
received quite a class of young ladies into our home after his 
return from St. Louis and greatly enjoyed teaching them as he 
was in advance of his time in believing that a girl should 
have just as good an education as a boy. 

The Indians speak of the Unknown Power which controls 
our Fate as "the Great Mystery" and certainly we know 
very little. 

I am sincerely 
your friend 

Kate Sanborn 

Mrs. Sanborn, daughter of Prof. Sanborn, President of 
Dartmouth College, sent these lines when she heard of the 
death of Mrs. Rosengarten. 

Miss Sanborn died in July, 1917. 












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